Surf Girls Hawai'i (2023): Season 1, Episode 3 - Great Expectations - full transcript
[waves crash]
[Hawaiian singing]
[Ēwe] So this is a ti leaf. We make
lei la'i, ti leaf leis, out of them.
[conversing in Hawaiian]
These are just like super
simple leis. You just twist it,
but it's used a lot in
ceremonies and in hula.
Leis, or la'i, is for
protection, pretty much.
[Hawaiian singing continues]
[announcer 1] Here at Hale'iwa,
Ēwe Wong, the exciting wildcard.
- Oh my God. Ēwe just got smoked.
- [Rainos] Uh-oh.
[dramatic music]
[chill music]
[Pua] Okay, roll this end.
This side. Roll it with me.
Know how? No. Okay. Just go like this.
And we flip this in and then we roll.
-[laughs]
-Good job.
[Duane]
We have been blessed to figure out
that we need to be on the north shore
during the main parts of winter.
So we rented this house from
November, December, and January.
[pan sizzles]
Before I moved here last winter,
I would wake up at like 4:30 every
morning, come down here, surf all day,
and then end up driving
home at about 12 midnight,
- and then do the same thing the next day.
- And so it just made sense.
Like, being here is the best
way to access all the waves.
Best way to access all the action, and
we don't want her by herself, you know.
We only got her for another year
and then she's an adult.
- [Pua] Eight months, dad.
- Eight months, we have her left.
[Mālia] But this is a crazy balance
of this senior year, right?
Like your ultimate goal, right,
like ultimately, if you could plan it
yourself, you'd go to graduation in May.
Oh yeah, I'd go to graduation in May.
I would go to the Challenger Series
in Australia, and I'll do ISAs.
But there's also no rush too, right?
With the college thing, right?
- I guess...No, it's kind of a rush.
- [Mālia] I mean...
Do you feel a sense of urgency around it?
I'm starting the new
way of 18 from these ones.
- Wow.
- I'm out.
- [Mālia chuckles]
- I was out at 17 and a half. Okay?
- I just came back.
- [all laugh]
[Pua] After Florida, it's been an
interesting couple weeks in my life.
When I don't show up to the
event surfing my hardest,
it tends to affect home a little bit, and
we have two huge competitions coming up.
We have the Hale'iwa Challenger
and the Vans Pipe Masters.
When you think about Pipe and Hale'iwa,
like the preparation for it,
what's the difference?
I think I'm nervous for
every event all the time.
Pipe makes me a million times
more nervous than Hale'iwa.
I just wanna get in the water already
and surf my heat already,
and like, get it done,
so I can focus on Pipe, and...
- One event at a time.
- [Pua] Yes.
I'm gonna be very clear about that.
[Pua]
Okay, but if we focus one event at a time
then we're not gonna focus
on Pipe till the eighth.
[Duane]
I'm not saying not to practice for both,
- and give both energy.
- So, you cannot not focus on one.
[tense music]
[Anu] So my parents are very
strategic. From like 13 to around 17.
They just hardcore focus on that kid,
and so right now that's Pua,
and we strongly believes that
Pua's success is our success,
and so there's definitely
a lot of pressure,
and I think at Pua's age it's kind of hard
to see that they're doing it for you.
[upbeat music]
[Ēwe] Now that I'm a Long rider,
I have access to the Long House.
- [Rainos] How you sista? [laughs]
- [Ēwe] Hi, Rainos.
Rainos is the team manager for Hawaii.
He'll like, coach you during events,
and life in general honestly,
and we're working on
developing a relationship.
At Hale'iwa, there's so many ways that
clearly dictate what the score is worth.
How big do you think it's gonna be?
- [Rainos] It could be pretty bombing.
- Really?
It'd be good to see you
utilize your local knowledge,
put yourself in the right place
and choose exceptionally wisely.
This is kind of like a big
transitioning point in my life.
- Yes.
- In terms of, just like...
- Going from... Yes, really everything.
- Everything.
[Ēwe]
I also don't set super high standards
because in the past that's
kind of what I used to do a lot
and it didn't end up well, and
I tend to overthink things... a lot.
I won't lie. The move from
amateur to true professional
is about as large of a jump
as you'll encounter.
And you're coming in as the youngster
against seasoned professionals
who know how to play the game.
My advice be to you for that?
Trust yourself.
- So, ride. Ride. [laughs]
- Yeah. Done that before. [laughs]
[solemn music]
[Maluhia]
After my injury in Florida,
my physical therapy is definitely
a lot of work and commitment.
But it's feels like a way that
I can like show myself self-love.
I feel like my body's getting stronger.
It's really difficult to miss
out on events like Hale'iwa
because I've been working
so hard to get here.
But I really just have to
prioritize keeping myself healthy
and making sure that my knee
is strong before I surf again.
[upbeat music]
[Ēwe] The Hale'iwa contest
has the best of the best competing in it.
People who are on tour
or were once on tour,
all of them are pro surfers
and they're all very well seasoned.
Compared to Florida, the waves will be a
lot bigger, and the competition is fierce.
[Moana] Hale'iwa is one of the
three jewels of North Shore.
We have Sunset, Hale'iwa, Pipeline.
Hale'iwa is the proving grounds.
I grew up watching Carissa Moore, Coco Ho,
like, all these amazing female
surfers surfing Hale'iwa,
and now it's my turn to surf Hale'iwa.
It's like my maiden voyage.
[Brianna]
I had a shocker event in Florida.
And the old Brianna wants to creep in and
be like, "you're not good enough, balala."
But I am like, "No, I am."
So Hale'iwa, I just wanna win everything.
[Pua]
When you have the best in the world
surfing at these places that are so
awesome, it's very inspiring.
So I'm super excited
to just push the limit.
[announcer 1] The final stop
of the challenger series.
Ready for Hale'iwa this morning.
The Hale'iwa Challenger at
home in the Hawaiian Islands.
- Ēwe is a wildcard for this event.
- You'll be in the green today.
- Put it on now?
- This is... Yes.
[Jason] She was at the top of
the 2022 Regional Qualifiers.
So she was able to get into this
event, which is really important.
[pulsing music]
- Look at this, so watch this one.
- Oh my gosh.
[Rainos]
That's fire.
It's been like maybe
one set every 10 minutes
and every once in a while
there's waves in between.
It's not bigger than what you
just witnessed. It will all open.
[Ēwe] This is the first event where
I have Billabong coaching me
and I started watching waves with Rainos
and then, anxiety started building.
You do well under pressure.
Trust it, dig in.
Get it girl.
[announcer 1] Ēwe Wong, the wildcard
from Oahu wearing the green jersey.
Goes to a Hawaiian immersion school,
so fluent speaking her
native language of Hawaiian.
It's beautiful when you hear her
talk about what she loves to do
in the Hawaiian language.
She's proud of her culture.
Wants to be the first surfer to go
to a Hawaiian immersion school
and win a world title someday.
[horn blows]
[announcer 1] As we look at opening
rounds, already getting started Ēwe Wong.
Ēwe Wong, she'll step off.
[judge] Uh-oh, looks
like Ēwe is having an issue.
Not exactly sure what the problem is
but she's headed back to the beach.
[dramatic music]
[announcer 1]
Oh man, she's on the beach.
I mean it's not normal to
come in to just change boards,
so she must have had something fail there.
[Ēwe]
Oh great. Of course my leash snaps.
I can't remember ever breaking
a leash in my heat before.
I was literally about to like, throw up,
because I was very nervous,
probably the most nervous I've been.
[announcer 2] She's paddling back
out into the lineup as we speak.
[Ēwe] That was definitely a big lesson I
learned, just be prepared for anything.
[tense music]
[announcer 1] As we see the goofy foot,
Mafalda Lopes times it well off the lip.
Keala and Mafalda holding down
the top two spots at the moment.
Ēwe Wong is in the third spot.
Just needs a 1.17.
Ēwe Wong the young wildcard.
Deeper off the bottom looking loose
and radical on those big hooks.
[dramatic music]
Hollow section for Ēwe.
She drills it again.
[dramatic sting]
Up and out. So three people carving
maneuvers on the open face for Ēwe.
[judge] She started the heat with
a broken leash. She had to come in.
[Pua]
Just watched Ēwe get a sick wave
and I'm excited to get out
there and perform my best.
[announcer 1]
8.5 for Ēwe Wong.
[announcer 3]
Ēwe is a force to be reckoned with.
[Jason] She got the 8.5. Did three
really big, beautiful committed turns,
and that's what the judges wanted to see
and pretty much set the scale for today.
[announcer 1] Mafalda Lopez, Ēwe Wong
to move on into the next round.
Broken leash on the first wave
didn't rattle Ēwe Wong.
- That's yours, young lady.
- Oh gosh.
It's the real deal.
Welcome to the big leagues.
[reporter] You have the
first heat under your belt.
How do you feel about moving forward?
Do you feel like you got some
pre-game jitters outta the way?
Oh, yes, definitely. I was
really nervous for this heat,
and I'm happy it ended up well. [laughs]
[reporter] Congratulations,
we'll see you in the next round.
Thank you.
[upbeat music]
[Ēwe]
I mean I'm new, obviously, to the scene,
and I know that people definitely
aren't familiar with me.
[bystander 1]
Let's go Ēwe!
[Ēwe] So it feels good and rewarding
to be like, sort of acknowledged,
and get like, congratulations and
good jobs and stuff from like, pros.
- That was so cool.
- Thank you.
- That was awesome.
- Thank you.
I think it's just building momentum
and then carrying that on to my next heat.
This is a nugget.
- Two and three are always better.
- Better, yeah.
Oh yeah. Don't overanalyze it.
Don't get all tight up here, like tense,
because the waves are so good
you don't even have to be tense.
I know, I just wanna flow.
Yes, just go do what you
were put on Earth to do.
Ascend it.
Surfing is so mental
'cause everyone's so good
and there's so much
pressure and everyone rips,
everyone deserves to be on
tour on the challenger series.
So this is where you bring every bit of
knowledge and every bit of experience
to the table that day.
- Two big ones and you're happy
- I'm happy.
Let's win this heat.
[funky music]
[announcer 1] We are in heat
number four of this opening round.
It's kind of a stacked heat here, Kaipo.
Brianna Cope here live action.
A little bit deep on this one.
Let's see if she can find some open face.
More in front of Brianna, and doubles up
two for one for the finish. Great surfing.
Brianna Cope, I think she did the job.
Maud Le Car.
You can see the aggression from Maud.
She's throwing a little
more aggressive lines.
She's definitely, I think, the dangerous
surfer in this heat right now.
[announcer 3]
Representing France in a big way.
[announcer 1] Maud Le Car in first.
Brianna Cope in second.
- They're gonna move on to the next round.
- [Brianna] First heat out of the way.
I wanna win every single heat I put
the jersey on, especially in Hawaii.
I feel like this is our home break
and we wanna represent.
I just was scared to fall.
Cause it's like so good out there.
I know it's like, it's so
good you don't wanna blow it.
- Don't be like me. Just relax.
- Just relax.
You got nothing to worry about.
- Are you the next heat?
- Yeah.
Oh, you just standing over here like
you're Miss Aloha. Get focused girl.
I know, you saw me in Florida.
- [unknown] See you later, y'all.
- Okay, okay, perfect.
[announcer 1] Moana Jones Wong
has been ripping her whole life
but I don't think she's been
more famous than she is now.
After what she did in Pipeline last year.
At Florida, I was the third
best surfer out of 88 girls.
So, I feel a lot of pressure.
I wanna make everybody proud.
- Pretty good size out there, yeah?
- Yeah, looks fun.
[Moana] Everybody is like,
so competitive in my family.
The people of Volcom, they're
competitive too, and we wanna win.
[announcer 2] This heat is setting
up to be an absolute banger Joe.
[announcer 1]
And now here comes Moana Jones Wong.
Speeding off the bottom.
Great timing off the top again.
Here she goes, baby.
Go, go, go, go, go
[announcer 1]
Great maneuvers off the lip.
She remains in control
on her opening ride.
- She attacks it.
- Attack it, attack it.
[announcer 1]
6.77 for this wave, Rosie.
A nice opportunity for
Moana Jones Wong to dig in.
- A ton of speed on the takeoff.
- Go Moana, go.
[announcer 1] Gets caught for a moment.
Ends up having to get outta there.
- Oh no.
- [groans]
[announcer 1]
It's a 2.13, as she sits in third.
- And time's running out.
- Yeah. She needs one.
[Moana]
Hale'iwa, it's a tricky wave.
Because there's only so many good
waves that will come in in a heat.
She doesn't need much
but she needs a score.
Still positive until the last seconds.
[announcer 2] Here we go, Moana,
she needs something, Joe.
[announcer 1]
Moana chasing a 3.84.
Moana Jones Wong
is setting up this back end.
Doesn't have a lot of open face.
It's already cornering towards her.
She did well to get that turn off,
until getting clipped at the bottom.
[family member]
Oh, that's it. That's it. She's done.
[bystander 2]
I dunno if there's enough time...
- Not enough time for sure. She's out.
- [bystander] ...to get back out.
[announcer 2]
Man, that's two heartbreaking waves
for the surfers that are on
that third and fourth position.
Not able to turn in something meaningful
and change the situation.
[announcer 1]
A tough heat for the locals.
We're gonna be losing Moana Jones Wong
from the draw here in the first round.
[horn blows]
[somber music]
Yeah.
Knowing that you're a
high performance surfer
and you have the skill level
to like make it all the way to the final
and you bow out in your first heat,
it's the most frustrating thing ever.
Like what was wrong with me?
Why was I not in the right head space?
Like I know I could have made
it to the finals. Like, what the heck?
I just wasn't feeling like my A game.
[Duane] I think the best part
about being at this event
is the quality of the surfers, and that
just makes Pua step up, you know?
And makes her rise to the occasion
and I'm excited to see her do that today.
[Pua]
My fears normally aren't the contest,
it's more just like the waves, the energy,
just what the vibe is on the beach
and the vibe is with my dad and
with my mom and with my coaches.
- How's the set coming?
- Beautiful.
The plan for Hale'iwa is to do
something to shake off those nerves
and move those legs and then... surf.
[Duane] Like, her first
heat is a challenging heat.
She gets out of that heat,
she's on cloud nine, you know.
[announcer 1] Coco is now in
the lineup with Pua Desoto,
Sally Fitzgibbons, and Summer Macedo.
[announcer 2] Pua, I mean, this is gonna
be her moment right now to surf at home,
and to make a big statement
as a grom coming into the limelight.
[announcer 1]
As we'll see Sally Fitzgibbons
lock into her first wave of the morning
and Fitzgibbons will ride away.
Now it's time for Coco Ho to get started.
Big opening, front side hook.
She just needs to start her own game
and break away from that pack.
[announcer 1]
As we have 11:50 on the clock.
Couple of waves rolling through unridden.
Pua still hanging on to her priority.
Pua, you gotta catch this wave.
[announcer 2] Wow those were some
really good sets coming through.
C'mon on, girl.
[announcer 2]
Here we go. Taking advantage.
[announcer 1]
Pua Desoto, setting up her first turn.
[dramatic sting]
[judge]
Last score of green, a 1.17.
[announcer 2] You know it's not over
at Hale'iwa until that horn goes.
So I think these ladies are
gonna continue to dig deep.
She's in a good spot right now for a set.
[announcer 1] And now we'll
see Pua, throwing some water.
Nice setup work there.
Wants this thing to really bowl.
She'll jam it real quickly as she
saw the white water shutting it down.
[judge] Score for green, a 4.0.
Green goes to second for the moment.
[announcer 1] Looks like we've got
some action here. Sally Fitzgibbons.
Nice, big front side whip. Setting up the
second effort, clean, wrapping cutback.
and Sally's just gonna
fade it one more time.
[judge] And the last score of blue in
5.83, puts Sally in blue back in second.
Puamakamae is down to
third leading at 6.9.
Come on! Just get one of these
sick ones and you're golden.
[announcer 1]
Here comes Pua Desoto.
[tense music]
[somber music]
[Pua]
I froze up. I forgot the plan. I blanked.
So like throughout the heat I'm almost
trying to remember what the plan is.
What's the plan? What's the plan? And
then you're just going down a rabbit hole.
[horn blows]
[announcer 1] Pua Desoto exits at fourth,
and the veterans completely take over.
[Pua] That sucked. Like, that was shitty.
My parents were not happy,
they were not stoked with how
I surfed and how I performed.
My dad just sat there in silence.
And I feel energy. I'm emotional.
To be a Desoto, it's like, it's a name
you gotta live up to. [chuckles]
When I lose it's like I'm losing on that
name, and I'm disgracing that name.
Yeah, it was just, it was rough.
It was just not who I am.
It's not how I surf. I mean,
I will literally go home and cry.
[waves crash]
[somber music]
[Moana]
Somebody like, messaged me on Instagram,
and like, said, "Oh, we saw you kooking
it at Hale'iwa yesterday in your heat.
You can't surf Hale'iwa and
you can only surf Pipe."
- It just hurts, you know?
- Yeah.
I can't believe somebody would
say something so mean to me.
Like, I don't even know that person.
That's how people let go of how they're
feeling, is to tear someone else down,
and I dealt with that a
lot with my little hand.
So, like, bullies is something
that really touches home for me.
So I know how to deal with it
because I got teared down a lot.
You know, you only tear someone down
when you're not feeling good.
Noticing that and not letting things bug
you, or like, things hurt your feelings
is just being more confident in yourself.
[Moana] Honestly, I don't want to
go into like a dark depression.
[Brianna]
I know exactly how you feel.
In Florida, I was like, this doesn't
define me, but in the back of our minds,
no matter how much mental work you do,
there is something in the back of us,
- that are like frick, I wanna be there.
- [Moana] Yeah.
[Briana] Competitive surfing's
super mentally tough.
It is mentally tough.
You have to be super strong.
Being surrounded by good people
in my life. Like you and Malu,
you guys really taught me so much
in such a short period of time.
Like, we've all known each
other since we were kids,
but like this last few months,
I feel like we've gone through
so many whirlwinds together
like Sunset Contest, Florida, here.
Like there's so much ups and downs
in surfing, and at the end of the day,
when you have a super solid crew,
it makes everything so much better,
'cuz you know your friends are
always gonna be there for you.
You know, like, it's like not really
even friends. It's like family.
Yeah, you made me so much more happier.
- That's what friends are for.
- [Moana] I know. I needed you.
[Brianna] So I expect you at
my heat tomorrow at Hale'iwa,
cause I'm gonna smoke 'em.
[both laugh]
[ethereal music]
[Ēwe]
Sitting with Rainos during this event,
preparing for my heats, is really helpful.
Like, I'm confident in my surfing
but I also wanna make sure that I
show people that I do belong there,
and that I am capable of surfing
just as good as everyone else.
[announcer 3]
Let's get to the opening heat of the day.
Five-time World Champion,
Olympic gold medalist,
is out in the water, Carissa Moore.
[Rainos] Carissa Moore is the
second most decorated woman
in professional surfing history at this
point, you know, with her gold medal.
[Jason] Carissa Moore, 5-time
Woman's World Champion,
Olympic gold medalist,
and one of the best and sweetest
surfers to ever come out of Hawaii.
[Ēwe] Surfing against Carissa
is definitely intimidating.
She's very impressive on big surf,
especially at Hale'iwa and
she's a big role model for me.
[tense music]
[horn blows]
[announcer 3] And the horn has sounded.
The 30 minute heat starts right now.
And Ēwe, she's gonna have to go left
on this one, 'cuz Carissa went right.
[Rainos]
Go, go, go. Go, go, go. Don't tank!
[announcer 3] But look at... the left is
lining up, and a nice finish for Ēwe Wong.
Number's in, 5.67 for Carissa Moore. She
takes the early lead. 3.93 for Ēwe Wong.
Pinkerton, smooth carve.
Patient here. Gets a finish.
Pinkerton, checking in with
a 6.23 for that second effort.
And this heat, this 30
minute heat has flown by.
We're down to just nine and
a half minutes on the clock.
Mid-size wave. Nice hook off
the top. Good start for Nadia.
Nadia goes into second,
and Ēwe Wong in third.
Just needs a 3.58 to take that
second advancing position.
Oh my God, come on Ēwe.
[announcer 3] Oh, and Ēwe sneaks under the
crown, under priority, up into the lift.
[tense music]
Come on, land it, stay on your board.
[announcer 2] Banking off the
white water. Counted for a 4.93.
Ēwelei'ula Wong goes into second
place. Carissa Moore in fourth.
[announcer 1] Ēwe's stoked.
She's in that hot seat at second place.
So she's probably feeling
pretty good right now, Kaipo.
[announcer 3]
This is a big opportunity for Ēwe,
because when you take out the world champ
- you make a name for yourself.
- [announcer 1] Absolutely!
[horn blows]
[cheers] Yay, Oh my God.
This will move her to the quarter finals.
[Ēwe]
With competitive surfing,
I'm kind of figuring out how to
navigate my mental challenges...
- Way to stay in it.
- Congratulations.
...and I think it's working out for me.
This is probably the best I've
been doing my entire life.
Oh my God, I'm so happy for her.
- You got this, you got this.
- It's gonna be fire in your heat.
- [Moana] Yeah, go get it! Whoo!
- [Maluhia] Bye, bye, bye!
[Brianna]
I have a job to do
and I'm in a totally different mind
frame than I was the first day.
I'm just really focused
on doing a smart heat.
[announcer 1] Nine minutes on the clock
here. Four amazing surfers in the lineup,
Brianna Cope, Zahli Kelly,
Sarah Baum, and Caitlin Simmers.
Being a beach judge is really easy.
- It's easy sitting here.
- Heat analyzer.
I wanna be out there right now.
I wanna be competing still,
and I'm not, but I'm here to
support one of my best friends.
Feels good that I'm like able
to shut off my competitive side.
Makes me feel like I've grown a lot.
[announcer 2] Just noticing this new swell
and how this old swell is dissipating.
[Maluhia]
Hale'iwa, when it's this mid-size,
it's so temperamental and hard to surf.
[announcer 1] Zahli Kelly out front. Sarah
Baum in second. Here comes Brianna Cope.
- Just go. Just go. Yes! [clapping] Go!
- [Love] Come on! Go, go!
[announcer 1] Cool stylish
start on the open face.
Just leaning back through the first
carve and she'll shut it down.
Her best wave so far.
- Whoo! Yes!
- Come on, girl!
[announcer 1] Caitlin Simmer's still
looking for her first completion,
as Sarah Baum will lock in.
Stretches out the bottom turn.
Here comes Zahli Kelly.
Quick fading cut-back.
- As Brianna will take this wave.
- Okay, she's going.
[announcer 1] Soft little start
but she wants something bigger here.
- Big wind up and out.
- [announcers wince]
- Oh God.
- [announcer 1] That is a hard wipe out.
[announcer 3] Hopefully she didn't
hit her face on that one, Joel.
Come on, get back out there.
[tense music]
Get back out.
[announcer 1] Gosh, a board to
a face like that, that had to hurt.
And looks like she's just gonna shake
it off and surf the rest of the heat.
[Maluhia] Brianna's pretty tough,
and that's part of why I love Brianna.
Just because of the level of
passion that she has for the sport
and the level of commitment
that she's shown
- for like the last 12 years of her life.
- Brianna only needs a five.
[indistinct announcement]
[announcer 1] Brianna Cope,
snapping the end section.
Remember, she needs a 5.14 to
go through the quarter finals
and it might come down to that wave.
Didn't have a whole lot to work with.
[dramatic sting]
[judge]
Last score of green a 3.73.
- [groans]
- Not enough.
[horn blows]
- It's okay, your heat went flat.
- Did you hit your rail?
- So hard.
- [Love] On your body?
I thought I broke my elbow.
- You all right?
- Yeah I'm fine.
- Little hand just provided blockage.
- [Love] Oh, brah...
[somber music]
[Brianna] I don't wanna be this
depressed sad person after I lose.
I wanna be like, you know what, whatever.
Like you can see the difference how
I felt at Florida compared to Hale'iwa.
I've done so much self-work that I don't
want to go down that sad pity party.
No one's showing up to my pity party.
I wanna take everything that I've
learned and like, be a better person,
and not let that dictate how
I feel the rest of the day.
[chill music]
- [Pua] How is college?
- [Anu] It's just so different.
Even just to take a break from like,
being with the family all the time.
[Pua]
Yeah.
Anxiety. Do you have a lot of
anxiety? I have a lot of anxiety.
[Anu] Pua suffers in silence.
She wants to make everyone else happy.
And so Pua will always
kind of keep it to herself.
And so I'm just happy that she feels safe
enough to have that space with me.
[Pua] They misjudge like how tired
we can be, and then they're like,
"Why aren't you doing that training?"
or like, four more trainings...
I think it's just that they have
high standards, so it's like...
[Pua] That, too. Like, everything
needs to be like on a high.
Right.
After Hale'iwa I had a really long,
hard talk with my parents
about just surfing and
competing and how it's not fun.
[emotional music]
My ultimate goal in life and in surfing
is to love surfing and love the ocean.
And if I'm not enjoying it, I question
like, is this really what I want?
And so I need to figure it out.
[waves crash]
[somber music]
[Maluhia] When I came to the
North Shore when I was younger,
and this used to be the Quicksilver House
and like all of these houses were just
branded houses full of like...
- Pressure.
- Gnarly men.
And I would come to try to practice Pipe,
and I would feel like
I didn't belong there.
- Like knowing that you guys are here.
- [Koral] You're home!
There's a space!
And you guys did that for us.
- Oh, I love that.
- Because that wasn't there before.
- I love that. That was like our goal.
- Yeah.
[Koral] My people I love aren't
just my blood relatives,
they're my family, which is like omalu,
- Like, come feel comfortable.
- Yeah.
[Maluhia] I've known Koral McCarthy
pretty much since I was born.
Koral and Uncle Moku now live in the house
that used to be the Quicksilver House.
Which is pretty much dead
center in front of Pipeline.
[Koral]
Holy moly, the waves are getting huge.
- [Maluhia] Wow.
- That was gnarly.
[Maluhia] She grew up on Kauai
and she was one of the first Roxy Girls.
Auntie Koral is iconic, and I
think she's one of the women
who really helped to establish
what it means to be a female surfer.
Just to be badass.
[Koral] Pipeline is so humblizing and I
feel like you're so close to my heart.
- Yeah. Yeah.
- And then when you got hurt, Malu.
I like, after I seen you
that day, I got all emotional,
but then yesterday I was talking
about it with the pool guys,
and I'm like, but if anyone was to
get hurt and come out like, better,
- it'd be Malu.
- [Malu laughs]
Like you're just gonna come out [giggles]
with that much more patience.
Because when you're in a injury you
kind of have to ground into your body,
- You do. Exactly.
- To heal. Like...
- And I feel like you're gonna have that.
- [Maluhia] Yeah.
It's been three weeks
since I injured my knee.
It's been my goal just to get
like, a really good wave at Pipe,
and the Pipe Masters is an
amazing opportunity to do that.
It is two weeks from now, and so I haven't
turned down my invitation just yet.
There is still that little
tiny part in me [laughs]
that's hoping I'll get better
and I'll be able to do it.
[big waves crashes]
[cheers]
- I love surfing so much!
- [Maluhia] Yeah.
[rock music]
[announcer 1] You're watching finals
day of the Hale'iwa Challenger
at home in the Hawaiian Islands, and also
the last day of the Challenger Series.
Crowning our champions today.
It's consistent right now,
which is nice to see.
Still a lot of waves.
We're gonna finish strong.
It's quarterfinal number
two now for the women.
Four surfers in the lineup
and top two move on to the semi-finals.
[Rainos]
Hunt it and kill it. Hunt it and kill it.
You're definitely gonna need
to come in swinging, full force.
[Ēwe] I'm really excited
that I made it to day three.
And competition's getting tough,
and I really want to make it to the final.
Go!
[upbeat music]
- Come on.
- Oh, I think it's a good wave.
[music continues]
[announcer 1] Connection there
for Ēwe Wong and drills it again.
Oh my goodness gracious.
Yeah!
- Beautiful surfing
- [announcer 1] 6.07 on her last wave.
[indistinct] Here we go.
[announcer 1] She looks so free,
relaxed, and incredibly confident.
Still attacking, Ēwe Wong. Wildcard's
having a blast out there. [laughs]
[Rainos]
Very well done. That was huge!
[announcer 1]
So Ēwe Wong turns in a 5.63 and a 6.07.
That should have her clean
into the semis for the young Hawaiian.
- Wow.
- Yay. Good job babe! [laughs]
[indistinct announcement]
- [bystander 3] Good job!
- Thank you.
[Ēwe]
I made it through.
- Thank you! Oh my goodness. [laughs]
- [indistinct, whoops]
- I want to make the podium.
- I know you do.
I really wanna make it.
Good. Don't get ahead of
yourself though, yeah?
- Yeah, I know.
- Heat by heat.
[announcer 1] The semifinals here on
finals day and we're getting down to it.
We woke up this morning
and watched some contests,
and then we're like, oh let's
go down and support Ēwe.
No, but I know she's gonna like kill it.
It's Ēwe, she can do anything.
- [Lu'ukia] Go Ēwe!
- [crowd cheers]
Go get it young lady.
This is your opportunity.
- Yeah, Ēwe! You got this girl.
- [judge] Three, two, one.
[announcer 1] Semifinal number one.
Top two move on into the finals.
This looks like the toughest heat so far.
Here we are in Hale'iwa.
It's pretty much as good as it gets.
[announcer 1] Sophie McCulloch
finds a clean face on the inside.
- Ēwe Wong behind her.
- She's going.
[announcer 1] Nice snap off
the top for the teenager.
Yeah! [whistles]
[announcer 1] Ēwe Wong,
the wildcard, moving into second.
Nice.
[announcer 3] Ēwelei'ula Wong down the
line here in some sizable Hale'iwa.
Big hat!
[Rainos]
Get there. Get there, Ēwe.
- Get there!
- Land it!
[announcer 3]
One more time, to the lift and...
[dramatic sting]
Oh!
[intense music]
[announcer 3] Here she goes
on the paddle back out.
What a wipe out, but what
commitment shown by Ēwe Wong.
Ēwe Wong actually in with a 5.2 for that
one turn. 90 seconds on the clock.
Please, no waves come.
[announcer 3]
Here comes Kirra Pinkerton.
- Oh no, no, no, no.
- [announcer 3] Medium size wave.
- Cuts that first turn short.
- [exhales]
[announcer 3]
Against the finish.
[horn blows]
Oh.
[judge] We're on standby
for green wave score.
[announcer 1] Was Kirra Pinkerton's
ride worth a 5.33 or better?
[agonized groan]
[announcer 1]
And 4.57. It's not enough.
[horn blows]
- Was that enough?
- Ēwe's in second.
- Oh.
- Yes. [laughs]
- Oh my God, I'm so happy.
- [announcer 1] Ēwe Wong.
We're gonna see her in the final
along with Sophie McCulloch.
[victorious music]
[cheers]
[Ēwe] I feel great. Honestly, I'm like,
baffled that I made it as far. [laughs]
[cheers, laughs]
[Ēwe]
I'm a wildcard and now I'm in the finals.
Yay! [laughs]
[cheers, laughs]
[announcer 1] Coming up next,
the women's final right here at Hale'iwa.
[Lu'ukia] She's been competing
since she was six at this beach.
As she's gotten and older,
I definitely tried to give
her the space she needs
so that my nerves don't overwhelm her.
[Ēwe]
I'm very tired at this point.
I am not used to surfing
this many heats in one day.
Especially like 30 minute heats.
You just have to keep paddling.
[horn blows]
[announcer 1] The moment we've been
waiting for. Just four surfers remaining,
and one of them will call themselves
a Hale'iwa Challenger Champion.
- Looks like she's ready to make a move.
- [announcer 1] Ēwe Wong.
Scrap into this wall.
The exciting wildcard.
Still stepping on the gas.
Can she catch up to some open face?
- She'll have to step off.
- She definitely looks tired.
Like, I think this contest
is a really good indication for her
that she's gonna have to work
on her physical fitness.
[announcer 1] Sophie's looking
to crush the end section.
She does that incredibly well.
Ēwelei'ula Wong is on the next one.
Oh my gosh. Get it Ēwe.
[dramatic music]
[music cuts]
- Oh my God. Ēwe just got smoked.
- [Rainos] Uh-oh.
[tense music]
- No.
- [indistinct announcement]
I don't know if something just happened.
Cause the jet ski's over there.
[Ēwe] I fell on that one and hit my
head on my board. I hit it pretty hard.
It like shocked me.
I was like kind of discombobulated.
It was scary, but like
I still wanted to surf.
[Rainos] She looks all right.
Probably a little rattled.
Hopefully she didn't land
on her board too hard.
She's had so many on the head, too.
I think she's just exhausted,
and you can see it, everyone's kind of
like, fighting just to hang onto a ride.
[announcer 1] Down 2:30 to go.
In position, we've got Ēwe Wong.
- Hang on Ēwe.
- Stay on your board.
[tense music]
[announcer 1] Skipping back to the big
section off the top. Always attacking.
And she will slide out.
- [whoops]
- [groans]
[judge] Five, four, three, two, one.
[horn blows]
That was brutal.
[announcer 1] The season's over, and the
final's over of the Hale'iwa Challenger
- at home in the Hawaiian Islands.
- Great job, Ēwe. [claps]
Ēwe took a couple of whip outs.
To find herself in that situation
and then not have it just
completely fall apart was a lot.
She reformed. She made
the final. That's huge.
- [Lu'ukia] Good job.
- Thanks.
- [Lu'ukia] Can I have a kiss? "Yeah."
- Yeah.
- Are you okay?
- Yeah.
- Did you hit your head?
- Yeah, like, saw a black screen.
- Oh yeah? Great. Just what I wanna hear.
- [Ēwe laughs]
I'm proud of you.
Ēwe, I'm sorry,
they need you at the stage.
Oh, right now?
- [Lu'ukia] Okay, good job babe.
- Yes.
[Ēwe] Even though I like didn't do as
well as I wanted to in the final,
I was more proud of myself
just for getting there.
I feel like it was a very rewarding event.
[announcer 1] Coming in as a wildcard to
this event and making a huge statement,
Let's hear it for a local girl
representing Hawaii, Ēwe Wong.
[crowd cheers]
[Ēwe] I'm really proud to represent
Hawaii and Hawaiians, Kanaka Oiwi,
the native people of this land.
[in Hawaiian]
Long live the Hawaiian language
and traditional Hawaiian knowledge
for the generations to come. Thank you.
My favorite olelo no'eau,
or Hawaiian proverb is,
He po'i na kai uli, kai ko'o,
'a'ohe hina pūko'a.
That means "Though the sea be deep and
rough, the coral rock remains standing."
Which also has to do with resilience.
Which I think is why it resonates with me.
[victorious music]
This year I want to
make it to the very top.
I want to be on the tour, representing
Hawaii and my culture and our people
on the Challenge Series next season.
[waves crash]
[tense music]
[Moana]
The next comp is at Pipe.
[Maluhia] Pipeline is the pinnacle
of professional surfing.
[Ēwe] Pipe is male dominated
because it is a dangerous wave.
[Pua] I lost first round in
that contest last year.
So like, it's a little nerve wrecking.
[Maluhia] With Pipeline, even a
small hesitation in your mind
- is enough to cause chaos.
- [announcer 4] Another broken board.
[Maluhia] So now with my injury,
I'm not sure if I'll be able to do that.
[Brianna] I'm an alternate for the Van's
Pipe Masters. I wanna get the opportunity.
So I just have to wait and see. 'Cuz I
love competing and I know I can win.
[Moana] Everyone thinks that I'm
a Pipe specialist and I am.
If you don't put in your time out there,
it kind of humbles you.
So I wanna get bigger waves.
I wanna win again.
[announcer 5]
Moana, attacking it.
[rhythmic music]
[Hawaiian singing]
[Ēwe] So this is a ti leaf. We make
lei la'i, ti leaf leis, out of them.
[conversing in Hawaiian]
These are just like super
simple leis. You just twist it,
but it's used a lot in
ceremonies and in hula.
Leis, or la'i, is for
protection, pretty much.
[Hawaiian singing continues]
[announcer 1] Here at Hale'iwa,
Ēwe Wong, the exciting wildcard.
- Oh my God. Ēwe just got smoked.
- [Rainos] Uh-oh.
[dramatic music]
[chill music]
[Pua] Okay, roll this end.
This side. Roll it with me.
Know how? No. Okay. Just go like this.
And we flip this in and then we roll.
-[laughs]
-Good job.
[Duane]
We have been blessed to figure out
that we need to be on the north shore
during the main parts of winter.
So we rented this house from
November, December, and January.
[pan sizzles]
Before I moved here last winter,
I would wake up at like 4:30 every
morning, come down here, surf all day,
and then end up driving
home at about 12 midnight,
- and then do the same thing the next day.
- And so it just made sense.
Like, being here is the best
way to access all the waves.
Best way to access all the action, and
we don't want her by herself, you know.
We only got her for another year
and then she's an adult.
- [Pua] Eight months, dad.
- Eight months, we have her left.
[Mālia] But this is a crazy balance
of this senior year, right?
Like your ultimate goal, right,
like ultimately, if you could plan it
yourself, you'd go to graduation in May.
Oh yeah, I'd go to graduation in May.
I would go to the Challenger Series
in Australia, and I'll do ISAs.
But there's also no rush too, right?
With the college thing, right?
- I guess...No, it's kind of a rush.
- [Mālia] I mean...
Do you feel a sense of urgency around it?
I'm starting the new
way of 18 from these ones.
- Wow.
- I'm out.
- [Mālia chuckles]
- I was out at 17 and a half. Okay?
- I just came back.
- [all laugh]
[Pua] After Florida, it's been an
interesting couple weeks in my life.
When I don't show up to the
event surfing my hardest,
it tends to affect home a little bit, and
we have two huge competitions coming up.
We have the Hale'iwa Challenger
and the Vans Pipe Masters.
When you think about Pipe and Hale'iwa,
like the preparation for it,
what's the difference?
I think I'm nervous for
every event all the time.
Pipe makes me a million times
more nervous than Hale'iwa.
I just wanna get in the water already
and surf my heat already,
and like, get it done,
so I can focus on Pipe, and...
- One event at a time.
- [Pua] Yes.
I'm gonna be very clear about that.
[Pua]
Okay, but if we focus one event at a time
then we're not gonna focus
on Pipe till the eighth.
[Duane]
I'm not saying not to practice for both,
- and give both energy.
- So, you cannot not focus on one.
[tense music]
[Anu] So my parents are very
strategic. From like 13 to around 17.
They just hardcore focus on that kid,
and so right now that's Pua,
and we strongly believes that
Pua's success is our success,
and so there's definitely
a lot of pressure,
and I think at Pua's age it's kind of hard
to see that they're doing it for you.
[upbeat music]
[Ēwe] Now that I'm a Long rider,
I have access to the Long House.
- [Rainos] How you sista? [laughs]
- [Ēwe] Hi, Rainos.
Rainos is the team manager for Hawaii.
He'll like, coach you during events,
and life in general honestly,
and we're working on
developing a relationship.
At Hale'iwa, there's so many ways that
clearly dictate what the score is worth.
How big do you think it's gonna be?
- [Rainos] It could be pretty bombing.
- Really?
It'd be good to see you
utilize your local knowledge,
put yourself in the right place
and choose exceptionally wisely.
This is kind of like a big
transitioning point in my life.
- Yes.
- In terms of, just like...
- Going from... Yes, really everything.
- Everything.
[Ēwe]
I also don't set super high standards
because in the past that's
kind of what I used to do a lot
and it didn't end up well, and
I tend to overthink things... a lot.
I won't lie. The move from
amateur to true professional
is about as large of a jump
as you'll encounter.
And you're coming in as the youngster
against seasoned professionals
who know how to play the game.
My advice be to you for that?
Trust yourself.
- So, ride. Ride. [laughs]
- Yeah. Done that before. [laughs]
[solemn music]
[Maluhia]
After my injury in Florida,
my physical therapy is definitely
a lot of work and commitment.
But it's feels like a way that
I can like show myself self-love.
I feel like my body's getting stronger.
It's really difficult to miss
out on events like Hale'iwa
because I've been working
so hard to get here.
But I really just have to
prioritize keeping myself healthy
and making sure that my knee
is strong before I surf again.
[upbeat music]
[Ēwe] The Hale'iwa contest
has the best of the best competing in it.
People who are on tour
or were once on tour,
all of them are pro surfers
and they're all very well seasoned.
Compared to Florida, the waves will be a
lot bigger, and the competition is fierce.
[Moana] Hale'iwa is one of the
three jewels of North Shore.
We have Sunset, Hale'iwa, Pipeline.
Hale'iwa is the proving grounds.
I grew up watching Carissa Moore, Coco Ho,
like, all these amazing female
surfers surfing Hale'iwa,
and now it's my turn to surf Hale'iwa.
It's like my maiden voyage.
[Brianna]
I had a shocker event in Florida.
And the old Brianna wants to creep in and
be like, "you're not good enough, balala."
But I am like, "No, I am."
So Hale'iwa, I just wanna win everything.
[Pua]
When you have the best in the world
surfing at these places that are so
awesome, it's very inspiring.
So I'm super excited
to just push the limit.
[announcer 1] The final stop
of the challenger series.
Ready for Hale'iwa this morning.
The Hale'iwa Challenger at
home in the Hawaiian Islands.
- Ēwe is a wildcard for this event.
- You'll be in the green today.
- Put it on now?
- This is... Yes.
[Jason] She was at the top of
the 2022 Regional Qualifiers.
So she was able to get into this
event, which is really important.
[pulsing music]
- Look at this, so watch this one.
- Oh my gosh.
[Rainos]
That's fire.
It's been like maybe
one set every 10 minutes
and every once in a while
there's waves in between.
It's not bigger than what you
just witnessed. It will all open.
[Ēwe] This is the first event where
I have Billabong coaching me
and I started watching waves with Rainos
and then, anxiety started building.
You do well under pressure.
Trust it, dig in.
Get it girl.
[announcer 1] Ēwe Wong, the wildcard
from Oahu wearing the green jersey.
Goes to a Hawaiian immersion school,
so fluent speaking her
native language of Hawaiian.
It's beautiful when you hear her
talk about what she loves to do
in the Hawaiian language.
She's proud of her culture.
Wants to be the first surfer to go
to a Hawaiian immersion school
and win a world title someday.
[horn blows]
[announcer 1] As we look at opening
rounds, already getting started Ēwe Wong.
Ēwe Wong, she'll step off.
[judge] Uh-oh, looks
like Ēwe is having an issue.
Not exactly sure what the problem is
but she's headed back to the beach.
[dramatic music]
[announcer 1]
Oh man, she's on the beach.
I mean it's not normal to
come in to just change boards,
so she must have had something fail there.
[Ēwe]
Oh great. Of course my leash snaps.
I can't remember ever breaking
a leash in my heat before.
I was literally about to like, throw up,
because I was very nervous,
probably the most nervous I've been.
[announcer 2] She's paddling back
out into the lineup as we speak.
[Ēwe] That was definitely a big lesson I
learned, just be prepared for anything.
[tense music]
[announcer 1] As we see the goofy foot,
Mafalda Lopes times it well off the lip.
Keala and Mafalda holding down
the top two spots at the moment.
Ēwe Wong is in the third spot.
Just needs a 1.17.
Ēwe Wong the young wildcard.
Deeper off the bottom looking loose
and radical on those big hooks.
[dramatic music]
Hollow section for Ēwe.
She drills it again.
[dramatic sting]
Up and out. So three people carving
maneuvers on the open face for Ēwe.
[judge] She started the heat with
a broken leash. She had to come in.
[Pua]
Just watched Ēwe get a sick wave
and I'm excited to get out
there and perform my best.
[announcer 1]
8.5 for Ēwe Wong.
[announcer 3]
Ēwe is a force to be reckoned with.
[Jason] She got the 8.5. Did three
really big, beautiful committed turns,
and that's what the judges wanted to see
and pretty much set the scale for today.
[announcer 1] Mafalda Lopez, Ēwe Wong
to move on into the next round.
Broken leash on the first wave
didn't rattle Ēwe Wong.
- That's yours, young lady.
- Oh gosh.
It's the real deal.
Welcome to the big leagues.
[reporter] You have the
first heat under your belt.
How do you feel about moving forward?
Do you feel like you got some
pre-game jitters outta the way?
Oh, yes, definitely. I was
really nervous for this heat,
and I'm happy it ended up well. [laughs]
[reporter] Congratulations,
we'll see you in the next round.
Thank you.
[upbeat music]
[Ēwe]
I mean I'm new, obviously, to the scene,
and I know that people definitely
aren't familiar with me.
[bystander 1]
Let's go Ēwe!
[Ēwe] So it feels good and rewarding
to be like, sort of acknowledged,
and get like, congratulations and
good jobs and stuff from like, pros.
- That was so cool.
- Thank you.
- That was awesome.
- Thank you.
I think it's just building momentum
and then carrying that on to my next heat.
This is a nugget.
- Two and three are always better.
- Better, yeah.
Oh yeah. Don't overanalyze it.
Don't get all tight up here, like tense,
because the waves are so good
you don't even have to be tense.
I know, I just wanna flow.
Yes, just go do what you
were put on Earth to do.
Ascend it.
Surfing is so mental
'cause everyone's so good
and there's so much
pressure and everyone rips,
everyone deserves to be on
tour on the challenger series.
So this is where you bring every bit of
knowledge and every bit of experience
to the table that day.
- Two big ones and you're happy
- I'm happy.
Let's win this heat.
[funky music]
[announcer 1] We are in heat
number four of this opening round.
It's kind of a stacked heat here, Kaipo.
Brianna Cope here live action.
A little bit deep on this one.
Let's see if she can find some open face.
More in front of Brianna, and doubles up
two for one for the finish. Great surfing.
Brianna Cope, I think she did the job.
Maud Le Car.
You can see the aggression from Maud.
She's throwing a little
more aggressive lines.
She's definitely, I think, the dangerous
surfer in this heat right now.
[announcer 3]
Representing France in a big way.
[announcer 1] Maud Le Car in first.
Brianna Cope in second.
- They're gonna move on to the next round.
- [Brianna] First heat out of the way.
I wanna win every single heat I put
the jersey on, especially in Hawaii.
I feel like this is our home break
and we wanna represent.
I just was scared to fall.
Cause it's like so good out there.
I know it's like, it's so
good you don't wanna blow it.
- Don't be like me. Just relax.
- Just relax.
You got nothing to worry about.
- Are you the next heat?
- Yeah.
Oh, you just standing over here like
you're Miss Aloha. Get focused girl.
I know, you saw me in Florida.
- [unknown] See you later, y'all.
- Okay, okay, perfect.
[announcer 1] Moana Jones Wong
has been ripping her whole life
but I don't think she's been
more famous than she is now.
After what she did in Pipeline last year.
At Florida, I was the third
best surfer out of 88 girls.
So, I feel a lot of pressure.
I wanna make everybody proud.
- Pretty good size out there, yeah?
- Yeah, looks fun.
[Moana] Everybody is like,
so competitive in my family.
The people of Volcom, they're
competitive too, and we wanna win.
[announcer 2] This heat is setting
up to be an absolute banger Joe.
[announcer 1]
And now here comes Moana Jones Wong.
Speeding off the bottom.
Great timing off the top again.
Here she goes, baby.
Go, go, go, go, go
[announcer 1]
Great maneuvers off the lip.
She remains in control
on her opening ride.
- She attacks it.
- Attack it, attack it.
[announcer 1]
6.77 for this wave, Rosie.
A nice opportunity for
Moana Jones Wong to dig in.
- A ton of speed on the takeoff.
- Go Moana, go.
[announcer 1] Gets caught for a moment.
Ends up having to get outta there.
- Oh no.
- [groans]
[announcer 1]
It's a 2.13, as she sits in third.
- And time's running out.
- Yeah. She needs one.
[Moana]
Hale'iwa, it's a tricky wave.
Because there's only so many good
waves that will come in in a heat.
She doesn't need much
but she needs a score.
Still positive until the last seconds.
[announcer 2] Here we go, Moana,
she needs something, Joe.
[announcer 1]
Moana chasing a 3.84.
Moana Jones Wong
is setting up this back end.
Doesn't have a lot of open face.
It's already cornering towards her.
She did well to get that turn off,
until getting clipped at the bottom.
[family member]
Oh, that's it. That's it. She's done.
[bystander 2]
I dunno if there's enough time...
- Not enough time for sure. She's out.
- [bystander] ...to get back out.
[announcer 2]
Man, that's two heartbreaking waves
for the surfers that are on
that third and fourth position.
Not able to turn in something meaningful
and change the situation.
[announcer 1]
A tough heat for the locals.
We're gonna be losing Moana Jones Wong
from the draw here in the first round.
[horn blows]
[somber music]
Yeah.
Knowing that you're a
high performance surfer
and you have the skill level
to like make it all the way to the final
and you bow out in your first heat,
it's the most frustrating thing ever.
Like what was wrong with me?
Why was I not in the right head space?
Like I know I could have made
it to the finals. Like, what the heck?
I just wasn't feeling like my A game.
[Duane] I think the best part
about being at this event
is the quality of the surfers, and that
just makes Pua step up, you know?
And makes her rise to the occasion
and I'm excited to see her do that today.
[Pua]
My fears normally aren't the contest,
it's more just like the waves, the energy,
just what the vibe is on the beach
and the vibe is with my dad and
with my mom and with my coaches.
- How's the set coming?
- Beautiful.
The plan for Hale'iwa is to do
something to shake off those nerves
and move those legs and then... surf.
[Duane] Like, her first
heat is a challenging heat.
She gets out of that heat,
she's on cloud nine, you know.
[announcer 1] Coco is now in
the lineup with Pua Desoto,
Sally Fitzgibbons, and Summer Macedo.
[announcer 2] Pua, I mean, this is gonna
be her moment right now to surf at home,
and to make a big statement
as a grom coming into the limelight.
[announcer 1]
As we'll see Sally Fitzgibbons
lock into her first wave of the morning
and Fitzgibbons will ride away.
Now it's time for Coco Ho to get started.
Big opening, front side hook.
She just needs to start her own game
and break away from that pack.
[announcer 1]
As we have 11:50 on the clock.
Couple of waves rolling through unridden.
Pua still hanging on to her priority.
Pua, you gotta catch this wave.
[announcer 2] Wow those were some
really good sets coming through.
C'mon on, girl.
[announcer 2]
Here we go. Taking advantage.
[announcer 1]
Pua Desoto, setting up her first turn.
[dramatic sting]
[judge]
Last score of green, a 1.17.
[announcer 2] You know it's not over
at Hale'iwa until that horn goes.
So I think these ladies are
gonna continue to dig deep.
She's in a good spot right now for a set.
[announcer 1] And now we'll
see Pua, throwing some water.
Nice setup work there.
Wants this thing to really bowl.
She'll jam it real quickly as she
saw the white water shutting it down.
[judge] Score for green, a 4.0.
Green goes to second for the moment.
[announcer 1] Looks like we've got
some action here. Sally Fitzgibbons.
Nice, big front side whip. Setting up the
second effort, clean, wrapping cutback.
and Sally's just gonna
fade it one more time.
[judge] And the last score of blue in
5.83, puts Sally in blue back in second.
Puamakamae is down to
third leading at 6.9.
Come on! Just get one of these
sick ones and you're golden.
[announcer 1]
Here comes Pua Desoto.
[tense music]
[somber music]
[Pua]
I froze up. I forgot the plan. I blanked.
So like throughout the heat I'm almost
trying to remember what the plan is.
What's the plan? What's the plan? And
then you're just going down a rabbit hole.
[horn blows]
[announcer 1] Pua Desoto exits at fourth,
and the veterans completely take over.
[Pua] That sucked. Like, that was shitty.
My parents were not happy,
they were not stoked with how
I surfed and how I performed.
My dad just sat there in silence.
And I feel energy. I'm emotional.
To be a Desoto, it's like, it's a name
you gotta live up to. [chuckles]
When I lose it's like I'm losing on that
name, and I'm disgracing that name.
Yeah, it was just, it was rough.
It was just not who I am.
It's not how I surf. I mean,
I will literally go home and cry.
[waves crash]
[somber music]
[Moana]
Somebody like, messaged me on Instagram,
and like, said, "Oh, we saw you kooking
it at Hale'iwa yesterday in your heat.
You can't surf Hale'iwa and
you can only surf Pipe."
- It just hurts, you know?
- Yeah.
I can't believe somebody would
say something so mean to me.
Like, I don't even know that person.
That's how people let go of how they're
feeling, is to tear someone else down,
and I dealt with that a
lot with my little hand.
So, like, bullies is something
that really touches home for me.
So I know how to deal with it
because I got teared down a lot.
You know, you only tear someone down
when you're not feeling good.
Noticing that and not letting things bug
you, or like, things hurt your feelings
is just being more confident in yourself.
[Moana] Honestly, I don't want to
go into like a dark depression.
[Brianna]
I know exactly how you feel.
In Florida, I was like, this doesn't
define me, but in the back of our minds,
no matter how much mental work you do,
there is something in the back of us,
- that are like frick, I wanna be there.
- [Moana] Yeah.
[Briana] Competitive surfing's
super mentally tough.
It is mentally tough.
You have to be super strong.
Being surrounded by good people
in my life. Like you and Malu,
you guys really taught me so much
in such a short period of time.
Like, we've all known each
other since we were kids,
but like this last few months,
I feel like we've gone through
so many whirlwinds together
like Sunset Contest, Florida, here.
Like there's so much ups and downs
in surfing, and at the end of the day,
when you have a super solid crew,
it makes everything so much better,
'cuz you know your friends are
always gonna be there for you.
You know, like, it's like not really
even friends. It's like family.
Yeah, you made me so much more happier.
- That's what friends are for.
- [Moana] I know. I needed you.
[Brianna] So I expect you at
my heat tomorrow at Hale'iwa,
cause I'm gonna smoke 'em.
[both laugh]
[ethereal music]
[Ēwe]
Sitting with Rainos during this event,
preparing for my heats, is really helpful.
Like, I'm confident in my surfing
but I also wanna make sure that I
show people that I do belong there,
and that I am capable of surfing
just as good as everyone else.
[announcer 3]
Let's get to the opening heat of the day.
Five-time World Champion,
Olympic gold medalist,
is out in the water, Carissa Moore.
[Rainos] Carissa Moore is the
second most decorated woman
in professional surfing history at this
point, you know, with her gold medal.
[Jason] Carissa Moore, 5-time
Woman's World Champion,
Olympic gold medalist,
and one of the best and sweetest
surfers to ever come out of Hawaii.
[Ēwe] Surfing against Carissa
is definitely intimidating.
She's very impressive on big surf,
especially at Hale'iwa and
she's a big role model for me.
[tense music]
[horn blows]
[announcer 3] And the horn has sounded.
The 30 minute heat starts right now.
And Ēwe, she's gonna have to go left
on this one, 'cuz Carissa went right.
[Rainos]
Go, go, go. Go, go, go. Don't tank!
[announcer 3] But look at... the left is
lining up, and a nice finish for Ēwe Wong.
Number's in, 5.67 for Carissa Moore. She
takes the early lead. 3.93 for Ēwe Wong.
Pinkerton, smooth carve.
Patient here. Gets a finish.
Pinkerton, checking in with
a 6.23 for that second effort.
And this heat, this 30
minute heat has flown by.
We're down to just nine and
a half minutes on the clock.
Mid-size wave. Nice hook off
the top. Good start for Nadia.
Nadia goes into second,
and Ēwe Wong in third.
Just needs a 3.58 to take that
second advancing position.
Oh my God, come on Ēwe.
[announcer 3] Oh, and Ēwe sneaks under the
crown, under priority, up into the lift.
[tense music]
Come on, land it, stay on your board.
[announcer 2] Banking off the
white water. Counted for a 4.93.
Ēwelei'ula Wong goes into second
place. Carissa Moore in fourth.
[announcer 1] Ēwe's stoked.
She's in that hot seat at second place.
So she's probably feeling
pretty good right now, Kaipo.
[announcer 3]
This is a big opportunity for Ēwe,
because when you take out the world champ
- you make a name for yourself.
- [announcer 1] Absolutely!
[horn blows]
[cheers] Yay, Oh my God.
This will move her to the quarter finals.
[Ēwe]
With competitive surfing,
I'm kind of figuring out how to
navigate my mental challenges...
- Way to stay in it.
- Congratulations.
...and I think it's working out for me.
This is probably the best I've
been doing my entire life.
Oh my God, I'm so happy for her.
- You got this, you got this.
- It's gonna be fire in your heat.
- [Moana] Yeah, go get it! Whoo!
- [Maluhia] Bye, bye, bye!
[Brianna]
I have a job to do
and I'm in a totally different mind
frame than I was the first day.
I'm just really focused
on doing a smart heat.
[announcer 1] Nine minutes on the clock
here. Four amazing surfers in the lineup,
Brianna Cope, Zahli Kelly,
Sarah Baum, and Caitlin Simmers.
Being a beach judge is really easy.
- It's easy sitting here.
- Heat analyzer.
I wanna be out there right now.
I wanna be competing still,
and I'm not, but I'm here to
support one of my best friends.
Feels good that I'm like able
to shut off my competitive side.
Makes me feel like I've grown a lot.
[announcer 2] Just noticing this new swell
and how this old swell is dissipating.
[Maluhia]
Hale'iwa, when it's this mid-size,
it's so temperamental and hard to surf.
[announcer 1] Zahli Kelly out front. Sarah
Baum in second. Here comes Brianna Cope.
- Just go. Just go. Yes! [clapping] Go!
- [Love] Come on! Go, go!
[announcer 1] Cool stylish
start on the open face.
Just leaning back through the first
carve and she'll shut it down.
Her best wave so far.
- Whoo! Yes!
- Come on, girl!
[announcer 1] Caitlin Simmer's still
looking for her first completion,
as Sarah Baum will lock in.
Stretches out the bottom turn.
Here comes Zahli Kelly.
Quick fading cut-back.
- As Brianna will take this wave.
- Okay, she's going.
[announcer 1] Soft little start
but she wants something bigger here.
- Big wind up and out.
- [announcers wince]
- Oh God.
- [announcer 1] That is a hard wipe out.
[announcer 3] Hopefully she didn't
hit her face on that one, Joel.
Come on, get back out there.
[tense music]
Get back out.
[announcer 1] Gosh, a board to
a face like that, that had to hurt.
And looks like she's just gonna shake
it off and surf the rest of the heat.
[Maluhia] Brianna's pretty tough,
and that's part of why I love Brianna.
Just because of the level of
passion that she has for the sport
and the level of commitment
that she's shown
- for like the last 12 years of her life.
- Brianna only needs a five.
[indistinct announcement]
[announcer 1] Brianna Cope,
snapping the end section.
Remember, she needs a 5.14 to
go through the quarter finals
and it might come down to that wave.
Didn't have a whole lot to work with.
[dramatic sting]
[judge]
Last score of green a 3.73.
- [groans]
- Not enough.
[horn blows]
- It's okay, your heat went flat.
- Did you hit your rail?
- So hard.
- [Love] On your body?
I thought I broke my elbow.
- You all right?
- Yeah I'm fine.
- Little hand just provided blockage.
- [Love] Oh, brah...
[somber music]
[Brianna] I don't wanna be this
depressed sad person after I lose.
I wanna be like, you know what, whatever.
Like you can see the difference how
I felt at Florida compared to Hale'iwa.
I've done so much self-work that I don't
want to go down that sad pity party.
No one's showing up to my pity party.
I wanna take everything that I've
learned and like, be a better person,
and not let that dictate how
I feel the rest of the day.
[chill music]
- [Pua] How is college?
- [Anu] It's just so different.
Even just to take a break from like,
being with the family all the time.
[Pua]
Yeah.
Anxiety. Do you have a lot of
anxiety? I have a lot of anxiety.
[Anu] Pua suffers in silence.
She wants to make everyone else happy.
And so Pua will always
kind of keep it to herself.
And so I'm just happy that she feels safe
enough to have that space with me.
[Pua] They misjudge like how tired
we can be, and then they're like,
"Why aren't you doing that training?"
or like, four more trainings...
I think it's just that they have
high standards, so it's like...
[Pua] That, too. Like, everything
needs to be like on a high.
Right.
After Hale'iwa I had a really long,
hard talk with my parents
about just surfing and
competing and how it's not fun.
[emotional music]
My ultimate goal in life and in surfing
is to love surfing and love the ocean.
And if I'm not enjoying it, I question
like, is this really what I want?
And so I need to figure it out.
[waves crash]
[somber music]
[Maluhia] When I came to the
North Shore when I was younger,
and this used to be the Quicksilver House
and like all of these houses were just
branded houses full of like...
- Pressure.
- Gnarly men.
And I would come to try to practice Pipe,
and I would feel like
I didn't belong there.
- Like knowing that you guys are here.
- [Koral] You're home!
There's a space!
And you guys did that for us.
- Oh, I love that.
- Because that wasn't there before.
- I love that. That was like our goal.
- Yeah.
[Koral] My people I love aren't
just my blood relatives,
they're my family, which is like omalu,
- Like, come feel comfortable.
- Yeah.
[Maluhia] I've known Koral McCarthy
pretty much since I was born.
Koral and Uncle Moku now live in the house
that used to be the Quicksilver House.
Which is pretty much dead
center in front of Pipeline.
[Koral]
Holy moly, the waves are getting huge.
- [Maluhia] Wow.
- That was gnarly.
[Maluhia] She grew up on Kauai
and she was one of the first Roxy Girls.
Auntie Koral is iconic, and I
think she's one of the women
who really helped to establish
what it means to be a female surfer.
Just to be badass.
[Koral] Pipeline is so humblizing and I
feel like you're so close to my heart.
- Yeah. Yeah.
- And then when you got hurt, Malu.
I like, after I seen you
that day, I got all emotional,
but then yesterday I was talking
about it with the pool guys,
and I'm like, but if anyone was to
get hurt and come out like, better,
- it'd be Malu.
- [Malu laughs]
Like you're just gonna come out [giggles]
with that much more patience.
Because when you're in a injury you
kind of have to ground into your body,
- You do. Exactly.
- To heal. Like...
- And I feel like you're gonna have that.
- [Maluhia] Yeah.
It's been three weeks
since I injured my knee.
It's been my goal just to get
like, a really good wave at Pipe,
and the Pipe Masters is an
amazing opportunity to do that.
It is two weeks from now, and so I haven't
turned down my invitation just yet.
There is still that little
tiny part in me [laughs]
that's hoping I'll get better
and I'll be able to do it.
[big waves crashes]
[cheers]
- I love surfing so much!
- [Maluhia] Yeah.
[rock music]
[announcer 1] You're watching finals
day of the Hale'iwa Challenger
at home in the Hawaiian Islands, and also
the last day of the Challenger Series.
Crowning our champions today.
It's consistent right now,
which is nice to see.
Still a lot of waves.
We're gonna finish strong.
It's quarterfinal number
two now for the women.
Four surfers in the lineup
and top two move on to the semi-finals.
[Rainos]
Hunt it and kill it. Hunt it and kill it.
You're definitely gonna need
to come in swinging, full force.
[Ēwe] I'm really excited
that I made it to day three.
And competition's getting tough,
and I really want to make it to the final.
Go!
[upbeat music]
- Come on.
- Oh, I think it's a good wave.
[music continues]
[announcer 1] Connection there
for Ēwe Wong and drills it again.
Oh my goodness gracious.
Yeah!
- Beautiful surfing
- [announcer 1] 6.07 on her last wave.
[indistinct] Here we go.
[announcer 1] She looks so free,
relaxed, and incredibly confident.
Still attacking, Ēwe Wong. Wildcard's
having a blast out there. [laughs]
[Rainos]
Very well done. That was huge!
[announcer 1]
So Ēwe Wong turns in a 5.63 and a 6.07.
That should have her clean
into the semis for the young Hawaiian.
- Wow.
- Yay. Good job babe! [laughs]
[indistinct announcement]
- [bystander 3] Good job!
- Thank you.
[Ēwe]
I made it through.
- Thank you! Oh my goodness. [laughs]
- [indistinct, whoops]
- I want to make the podium.
- I know you do.
I really wanna make it.
Good. Don't get ahead of
yourself though, yeah?
- Yeah, I know.
- Heat by heat.
[announcer 1] The semifinals here on
finals day and we're getting down to it.
We woke up this morning
and watched some contests,
and then we're like, oh let's
go down and support Ēwe.
No, but I know she's gonna like kill it.
It's Ēwe, she can do anything.
- [Lu'ukia] Go Ēwe!
- [crowd cheers]
Go get it young lady.
This is your opportunity.
- Yeah, Ēwe! You got this girl.
- [judge] Three, two, one.
[announcer 1] Semifinal number one.
Top two move on into the finals.
This looks like the toughest heat so far.
Here we are in Hale'iwa.
It's pretty much as good as it gets.
[announcer 1] Sophie McCulloch
finds a clean face on the inside.
- Ēwe Wong behind her.
- She's going.
[announcer 1] Nice snap off
the top for the teenager.
Yeah! [whistles]
[announcer 1] Ēwe Wong,
the wildcard, moving into second.
Nice.
[announcer 3] Ēwelei'ula Wong down the
line here in some sizable Hale'iwa.
Big hat!
[Rainos]
Get there. Get there, Ēwe.
- Get there!
- Land it!
[announcer 3]
One more time, to the lift and...
[dramatic sting]
Oh!
[intense music]
[announcer 3] Here she goes
on the paddle back out.
What a wipe out, but what
commitment shown by Ēwe Wong.
Ēwe Wong actually in with a 5.2 for that
one turn. 90 seconds on the clock.
Please, no waves come.
[announcer 3]
Here comes Kirra Pinkerton.
- Oh no, no, no, no.
- [announcer 3] Medium size wave.
- Cuts that first turn short.
- [exhales]
[announcer 3]
Against the finish.
[horn blows]
Oh.
[judge] We're on standby
for green wave score.
[announcer 1] Was Kirra Pinkerton's
ride worth a 5.33 or better?
[agonized groan]
[announcer 1]
And 4.57. It's not enough.
[horn blows]
- Was that enough?
- Ēwe's in second.
- Oh.
- Yes. [laughs]
- Oh my God, I'm so happy.
- [announcer 1] Ēwe Wong.
We're gonna see her in the final
along with Sophie McCulloch.
[victorious music]
[cheers]
[Ēwe] I feel great. Honestly, I'm like,
baffled that I made it as far. [laughs]
[cheers, laughs]
[Ēwe]
I'm a wildcard and now I'm in the finals.
Yay! [laughs]
[cheers, laughs]
[announcer 1] Coming up next,
the women's final right here at Hale'iwa.
[Lu'ukia] She's been competing
since she was six at this beach.
As she's gotten and older,
I definitely tried to give
her the space she needs
so that my nerves don't overwhelm her.
[Ēwe]
I'm very tired at this point.
I am not used to surfing
this many heats in one day.
Especially like 30 minute heats.
You just have to keep paddling.
[horn blows]
[announcer 1] The moment we've been
waiting for. Just four surfers remaining,
and one of them will call themselves
a Hale'iwa Challenger Champion.
- Looks like she's ready to make a move.
- [announcer 1] Ēwe Wong.
Scrap into this wall.
The exciting wildcard.
Still stepping on the gas.
Can she catch up to some open face?
- She'll have to step off.
- She definitely looks tired.
Like, I think this contest
is a really good indication for her
that she's gonna have to work
on her physical fitness.
[announcer 1] Sophie's looking
to crush the end section.
She does that incredibly well.
Ēwelei'ula Wong is on the next one.
Oh my gosh. Get it Ēwe.
[dramatic music]
[music cuts]
- Oh my God. Ēwe just got smoked.
- [Rainos] Uh-oh.
[tense music]
- No.
- [indistinct announcement]
I don't know if something just happened.
Cause the jet ski's over there.
[Ēwe] I fell on that one and hit my
head on my board. I hit it pretty hard.
It like shocked me.
I was like kind of discombobulated.
It was scary, but like
I still wanted to surf.
[Rainos] She looks all right.
Probably a little rattled.
Hopefully she didn't land
on her board too hard.
She's had so many on the head, too.
I think she's just exhausted,
and you can see it, everyone's kind of
like, fighting just to hang onto a ride.
[announcer 1] Down 2:30 to go.
In position, we've got Ēwe Wong.
- Hang on Ēwe.
- Stay on your board.
[tense music]
[announcer 1] Skipping back to the big
section off the top. Always attacking.
And she will slide out.
- [whoops]
- [groans]
[judge] Five, four, three, two, one.
[horn blows]
That was brutal.
[announcer 1] The season's over, and the
final's over of the Hale'iwa Challenger
- at home in the Hawaiian Islands.
- Great job, Ēwe. [claps]
Ēwe took a couple of whip outs.
To find herself in that situation
and then not have it just
completely fall apart was a lot.
She reformed. She made
the final. That's huge.
- [Lu'ukia] Good job.
- Thanks.
- [Lu'ukia] Can I have a kiss? "Yeah."
- Yeah.
- Are you okay?
- Yeah.
- Did you hit your head?
- Yeah, like, saw a black screen.
- Oh yeah? Great. Just what I wanna hear.
- [Ēwe laughs]
I'm proud of you.
Ēwe, I'm sorry,
they need you at the stage.
Oh, right now?
- [Lu'ukia] Okay, good job babe.
- Yes.
[Ēwe] Even though I like didn't do as
well as I wanted to in the final,
I was more proud of myself
just for getting there.
I feel like it was a very rewarding event.
[announcer 1] Coming in as a wildcard to
this event and making a huge statement,
Let's hear it for a local girl
representing Hawaii, Ēwe Wong.
[crowd cheers]
[Ēwe] I'm really proud to represent
Hawaii and Hawaiians, Kanaka Oiwi,
the native people of this land.
[in Hawaiian]
Long live the Hawaiian language
and traditional Hawaiian knowledge
for the generations to come. Thank you.
My favorite olelo no'eau,
or Hawaiian proverb is,
He po'i na kai uli, kai ko'o,
'a'ohe hina pūko'a.
That means "Though the sea be deep and
rough, the coral rock remains standing."
Which also has to do with resilience.
Which I think is why it resonates with me.
[victorious music]
This year I want to
make it to the very top.
I want to be on the tour, representing
Hawaii and my culture and our people
on the Challenge Series next season.
[waves crash]
[tense music]
[Moana]
The next comp is at Pipe.
[Maluhia] Pipeline is the pinnacle
of professional surfing.
[Ēwe] Pipe is male dominated
because it is a dangerous wave.
[Pua] I lost first round in
that contest last year.
So like, it's a little nerve wrecking.
[Maluhia] With Pipeline, even a
small hesitation in your mind
- is enough to cause chaos.
- [announcer 4] Another broken board.
[Maluhia] So now with my injury,
I'm not sure if I'll be able to do that.
[Brianna] I'm an alternate for the Van's
Pipe Masters. I wanna get the opportunity.
So I just have to wait and see. 'Cuz I
love competing and I know I can win.
[Moana] Everyone thinks that I'm
a Pipe specialist and I am.
If you don't put in your time out there,
it kind of humbles you.
So I wanna get bigger waves.
I wanna win again.
[announcer 5]
Moana, attacking it.
[rhythmic music]