Good Eats (1999–2012): Season 1, Episode 4 - Salad Daze - full transcript
WAS A FORAGED FOOD OF
NECESSITY.
THOSE WHO GOT PAST THE DIRT
AND OCCASIONAL SNAKE
NOTICED THEY FELT BETTER,
SMELLED BETTER,
AND EVEN LIVED
A LITTLE LONGER.
AN ICE AGE OR TWO LATER,
THE SALAD FINALLY GETS ITS
NAME FROM THE ROMANS,
WHOSE FAVORITE DRESSING IS
SAL--SALT, LOTS OF SALT.
THE YEAR, 1607... LOOKING
FOR A PHRASE TO DESCRIBE
TIMES OF YOUTHFUL
INEXPERIENCE,
ELIZABETHAN WORDSMITH
WILL SHAKESPEARE
COINS THE PHRASE
"SALAD DAYS."
RUSHING TO SERVE THE SALAD-
CRAZED, LOUIS XIV,
AN OIL VENDER AND
VINEGAR MAKER
SHARE A CARRIAGE RIDE
AND MAKE A DISCOVERY.
IDIOT!
STUPIDO!
YOU'VE GOTTEN
YOUR GREASY OIL
INSIDE MY
BEAUTIFUL VINEGAR!
YOU GOT THIS SMELLY
OLE, STINKY WINE STUFF
INTO MY
WONDERFUL OIL!
HEY, THAT'S
NOT BAD!
IT'S PERFECT!
YEAH!
SOME 300 YEARS LATER, A CHICAGO
RESTAURATEUR HAS AN IDEA
AND CHANGES THE
SALAD WORLD FOREVER.
THE INNOVATIVE '90s HAVE
BROUGHT THE SALAD FULL CIRCLE.
OH, AND WITH A SIDE OF
CURRIED BOYSENBERRY VINAIGRETTE... OH MY.
YOU KNOW, IN FRENCH,
SALAD ALSO MEANS MESS.
AND I SAY, WELL IF THE SHOE
FITS, YOU MUST AQUIT.
JOIN US AS WE DECIDE
FOR THE MUCH MALIGNED AND OVERWROUGHT TOSSED SALAD.
WE'LL TOUR THE
WORLD OF GREENS,
CONTEMPLATE THE DEEP RECESSES
OF YOUR CRISPER DRAWER,
CHECK OUT SOME GOT-
TO-HAVE TOOLS,
AND DRESS PROPERLY
FOR DINNER.
I MAY HAVE MY DOUBTS
ABOUT THIS...
BUT THIS, I'M SURE,
IS "GOOD EATS."
♪
THE WAY WE SEE IT,
THE SALAD UNIVERSE SPLITS
INTO TWO DISTINCT GALAXIES--
THE MILD, SWEET LETTUCES AND
THE LOOSE FEDERATION OF CHICORY,
WATERCRESS, ESCAROLE,
RADICCHIO, ENDIVE, ARUGULA--
WHAT I CALL THE MEAN GREENS.
THE ART IN ALL THIS, IS
TO PERSONALIZE THE MIX,
FIND THE BALANCE THAT LEADS
YOU TO SALAD HAPPINESS.
DON'T FEEL LIKE
HEADHUNTING?
CUT-AND-CLEANED MIXES ARE THE
SALAD-BOWL TREND OF THE DAY.
FROM THE OLD PROVENCAL
WORD FOR MIXTURE,
MESCLUN WAS ORIGINALLY
AN INTRICATE,
BUT BALANCED, BLEND OF ABOUT
12, MAYBE, 15 YOUNG GREENS.
THESE DAYS, JUST ABOUT ANY YOUNG
MIXTURE GETS CALLED MESCLUN--
WHETHER IT IS OR NOT--
OFTEN WITH MIXED RESULTS.
STILL, IF IT'S FRESH AND
SOLD LOOSE LIKE THIS,
MESCLUN CAN BE AN
EXCELLENT VALUE,
ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE
ARE TRYING TO GET
INTO THE EXOTIC GREEN
POOL ONE FOOT AT A TIME.
BUT BE CAREFUL ABOUT PREPACKAGED
OR BAGGED MESCLUN MIXES.
IT'S VERY FRAGILE
AND PERISHABLE,
AND SO OFTEN THE PRETTY
PICTURE YOU GET IN THE FRONT OF THE WINDOW
ISN'T WHAT'S GOING
ON INSIDE THE BAG.
WANT TO KNOW WHAT FRESH
GREENS SHOULD LOOK LIKE
IN YOUR PRODUCE DEPARTMENT?
WELL, AS MUCH LIKE
THIS AS POSSIBLE.
I MEAN, JUST LOOK AT THIS HEAD
OF BUTTERCRISP LETTUCE...
IT'S PERFECT.
THE LEAVES ARE CRISP--THERE
ARE NO BLEMISHES ANYWHERE.
IT'S JUST PERFECT.
IT HOLDS ITS SHAPE WHEN
IT'S MOVED AROUND,
NO SLIMY SPOTS--THIS IS
GRADE A PRODUCE.
THIS IS WHAT YOU SHOULD LOOK
FOR IN ANY LETTUCE, REALLY,
WHETHER IT'S A TIGHT
HEAD OR A LOOSE HEAD.
NOW ADMITTEDLY, SOME
LETTUCES ARE NEVER GOING TO BE THIS CRISP.
THERE ARE SOME MORE
DELICATE GREENS.
FOR INSTANCE, THIS FRISéE
IS A MUCH LOOSER HEAD,
AND IT'S NEVER GOING TO BE AS
CRISP AS THAT BUTTERCRISP,
BUT IT DOES HAVE A LOT OF
THE SAME CHARACTERISTICS.
THERE ARE NO BLEMISHES...
THE COLOR IS BRIGHT.
THE LEAVES ARE CRISP, EVEN
THOUGH THEY ARE DELICATE.
AND ABOVE ALL,
THERE'S NO WILTING.
IT'S A GREAT
HEAD OF LETTUCE.
OH, AND THESE WHITE
CAPS, BY THE WAY,
ARE PUT ON JUST A FEW
DAYS BEFORE HARVEST,
SO THAT THE HEART
WILL TURN WHITE.
IT'S A FRENCH THING.
NOW HEAVY-RIBBED
HEADS, LIKE ROMAINE
AND THIS LOOSE-HEAD RADICCHIO,
SHOULD STAND UP STRAIGHT
WITHOUT ANY SIGNS OF
CRACKS ALONG THE RIBS.
NOW WILTED GOODS ARE
EITHER OLD OR DAMAGED,
AND WHILE MANY GREENS CAN
BE REVIVED, TO A POINT,
BY SOAKING IN COLD WATER,
OFF SPECIMENS ARE NEVER
FULLY GOING TO RECOVER.
TAKE TIME TO LOOK CLOSELY AT
YOUR PERSPECTIVE SALAD FODDER.
FEEL THE LEAVES, AND
IF NOBODY'S LOOKING,
JUST GO AHEAD AND
TAKE A BITE.
SO WHAT ARE
YOU EATING? BUSTED,
BY BENJAMIN
BUNNY.
UM, NOTHING.
YOU MUST BE
DOUG GALLAGHER. I AM.
PLEASURE, NICE
ORGANIC SPREAD YOU GOT GOING HERE. THANK YOU.
SO DOUG, WHAT DOES
A GUY LIKE YOU
HAVE TO DO TO GROW
LETTUCE LIKE THIS?
WELL, WE TAKE CARE OF
THE SOIL, FIRST THING,
AND THAT GROWS A
BETTER PLANT.
THAT MAKES SENSE.
WE USE A LOT OF COMPOST
AND BUILD THE SOIL.
WE ALSO USE ROCK POWDERS
AND OYSTER SHELL,
AND THEN COVER CROPPING
IN THE WINTER.
SO YOU JUST
TURN THAT IN.
IT'S LIKE RAISING YOUR
OWN FERTILIZER, RIGHT?
RIGHT.
HOW CAN PEOPLE AT HOME MAKE
SURE THAT THEY BUY THE BEST?
BUYING LOCALLY IS GOOD...
FARMERS MARKETS
OR FARM STANDS,
AND ASK YOUR GROCER,
PRODUCE MAN, YOU KNOW.
OKAY, SO COME
CLEAN, DOUG,
DO YOU EAT YOUR VEGETABLES?
DO YOU EAT YOUR SALAD?
I SURE DO...
FRISéE AND ARUGULA.
GOOD DEAL, YOU
GOT IT GOING.
OKAY, SO MAYBE YOU'RE NOT BUYING
ORGANIC FRISéE EVERY DAY,
OR NETTLES, OR RADICCHIO,
OR BUTTERCRISP LETTUCE,
BUT EVEN THAT HARDY HEAD OF
ICEBERG DESERVES SOME RESPECT.
SO BE GENTLE, WILL YOU?
I MEAN, SALAD GREENS ARE A
LOT LIKE NITROGLYCERIN.
THEY'RE NOT GOING TO TOLERATE
ROUGH HANDLING IN THE FIELD,
IN THE STORE, AND THEY'RE NOT
GOING TO TOLERATE IT AT HOME.
SO BE GENTLE.
♪
THIS IS HOW MUCH
CARBON DIOXIDE
A ONE-POUND HEAD OF LETTUCE CAN
EXHALE WHILE YOU'RE AT WORK.
THAT'S RIGHT, EVEN
AFTER HARVEST,
GREENS, ESPECIALLY LETTUCES,
GO ON ABOUT THEIR BUSINESS,
METABOLIZING NUTRIENTS
AND BREATHING.
SO IF YOU WANT THE GREENS
THAT YOU BOUGHT ON MONDAY
TO MAKE IT THROUGH
TO SEE SUNDAY,
YOU'RE GOING TO
HAVE TO FORCE THEM
INTO A KIND OF SUSPENDED
ANIMATION...
WHICH AS ANYONE WHO'S EVER SEEN
A SCIENCE FICTION MOVIE
CAN TELL YOU, INVOLVES
A FEW STEPS.
BATH TIME...
FILL A SINK WITH ABOUT AS MUCH
COLD WATER AS IT WILL HOLD.
NOW REMEMBER, LETTUCE
GROWS IN DIRT,
AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT,
BY THE TIME YOU GET IT HOME,
IT'S STILL GOT A LOT
OF DIRT WITH IT.
FILLING THE SINK ALL THE WAY
WILL ALLOW US TO GET THE
DIRT OFF THE LETTUCE
AND LET IT SINK TO THE
BOTTOM OF THE SINK.
MOST LETTUCES WILL LAST LONGER
IF THE LEAVES ARE LEFT INTACT.
BUT SOME HARDIER HEADS,
LIKE THIS RADICCHIO
AND THIS ROMAINE, YOU
CAN CUT WITH A KNIFE.
WHAT ARE
YOU DOING!
YOU SHOULD NEVER
CUT ZE GREENS WITH A KNIFE!
TEAR ZE GREENS,
DO SMALL... GENTLY.
AAAUUUGGGHHH!!!
HEH, HEH.
WELL, THIS IS WHAT HE'S
TALKING ABOUT...
ALL THE LEAVES OF GREENS
AND LETTUCES ARE BASICALLY
LITTLE, BITTY, CELLULOSE
BOXES THAT ARE FULL OF WATER.
IT'S KIND OF LIKE
THIS BUBBLE WRAP.
JUST PRETEND THAT THESE ARE
FULL OF WATER, INSTEAD OF AIR.
WHEN YOU CUT A LEAF...
WELL, BESIDES LOOKING LIKE NORMAN BATES,
YOU BREACH SOME OF THE CELLS.
NOW ON A SOFTER,
MORE FRAGILE LEAF,
THIS WOULD RESULT IN BRUISING,
A KIND OF DARKENING
ALONG THE EDGE OF THE CUT,
WHICH IS UGLY AND GUMMY.
BUT IF YOU TEAR THE SAME LEAF,
THE LEAVES JUST SPLIT, RIGHT
ALONG THE CELL BOUNDARY.
SO IF YOU'RE PREPPING
DELICATE STUFF,
EITHER TEAR IT OR LEAVE THEM
WHOLE UNTIL YOU SERVE THEM.
HARDY LEAVES LIKE ROMAINE,
GO AHEAD AND CUT...
DON'T WORRY ABOUT
WHAT CHEF SAID.
JUST BE SURE YOU
SLICE, DON'T HACK.
WASHING ISN'T JUST
ABOUT COMING CLEAN,
IT'S ABOUT REHYDRATING--
LOADING UP THE LEAVES
WITH PLENTY OF MOISTURE,
SO THEY'LL STAY CRISP
DURING THEIR LONG NAP
IN THE REFRIGERATOR.
YOU'RE GOING TO BE SURPRISED
HOW EVEN BADLY WILTED GREENS
CAN BOUNCE BACK AFTER
A 20-MINUTE COLD SOAK.
YOU MIGHT ALSO BE SURPRISED
AT HOW MUCH DIRT THERE IS
IN THE BOTTOM OF THE SINK.
I'VE HEARD OF VITAMINS
AND MINERALS,
BUT THAT'S RIDICULOUS.
SO GIVE THESE ABOUT A
TWO- TO THREE-MINUTE DRAIN,
THEN TAKE THEM FOR A SPIN.
AS WE HAVE NOW SEEN, MOISTURE
INSIDE THE GREENS--GOOD.
BUT MOISTURE ON
THE GREENS--BAD.
THAT'S WHY WE'RE HERE,
MEETING UP WITH OUR
EQUIPMENT SPECIALIST, W.
(w)
WHAT YOU NEED IS A SPINNER.
MY THOUGHTS EXACTLY.
PAY ATTENTION, WILL YOU?
A SPINNER IS A
CENTRIFUGE.
YOU KNOW, LIKE THE SPIN CYCLE
IN YOUR WASHING MACHINE.
YEAH, I SAW ONE OF
THOSE ONCE.
IT'S THE BEST WAY TO
DRY GREENS FAST.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN
MAKES AND MODELS
USUALLY REVOLVES AROUND
THE DRIVE MECHANISM.
I CAN'T GET THIS
ONE TO START.
THIS IS MY FAVORITE.
IT UTILIZES A SPRING-LOADED,
ARCHIMEDES SCREW.
OH, ARCHIMEDES,
OF COURSE.
JUST PUNCH IT A
COUPLE OF TIMES,
AND IT EVEN
HAS A BRAKE.
SO, GREENS...
ALL DRY, YES.
WET WATER
STUFF, HERE.
I'LL TAKE IT...
WONDERFUL JOB.
BUT YOU KNOW, YOU REALLY SHOULD
GET THE LAWN MOWER FIXED.
NOW THAT THE SPIN CYCLE
IS FINISHING UP,
THERE'S ONE LAST STEP TO
SUSPENDED LETTUCE ANIMATIO,
AND THAT'S OXYGEN
DEPRIVATION.
AFTER ALL, GREENS WON'T ROT SO
FAST IF THEY CAN'T BREATHE,
AND THEY CAN'T BREATHE
IF THERE'S NO AIR.
SO JUST SPREAD THE GREENS OUT
ON A SINGLE LAYER OF PAPER TOWEL
AND THEN ROLL THEM
UP LOOSELY.
AND WE'RE GOING TO
POP THIS WHOLE THING
INTO A HEAVY, RESEALABLE
KITCHEN BAG.
NOW THE TOWEL IS GOING TO WICK
AWAY ANY SURFACE MOISTURE,
AND THEN SLOWLY GIVE IT
BACK AS THE GREENS NEED IT.
SQUEEZE OUT AS MUCH
AIR AS YOU CAN,
WITHOUT CRUSHING THE GREENS,
AND THEN JUST USE A REGULAR
STRAW TO SUCK OUT THE REST.
LAMINATED LETTUCE... PERFECT
FOR HOLIDAY GIFT GIVING.
♪
SO HOW MANY COOKS DOES IT
TAKE TO MAKE SALAD DRESSING?
WELL, THERE'S AN OLD KITCHEN
PROVERB THAT SAYS THREE.
YOU'VE GOT A MISER
FOR THE VINEGAR,
A SPENDTHRIFT FOR THE OIL,
AND A WISEMAN FOR THE SALT.
THE DRESSING IN
QUESTION, OF COURSE,
IS THE MARTINI OF THE SALAD
WORLD--THE VINAIGRETTE,
THAT ETHEREAL COUPLING
OF OIL AND WINE,
WHICH, THROUGH THE METABOLIC
ACTIVITY OF ACIDIC BACTERIA,
HAS BECOME VINEGAR.
BUT THE PROBLEM WITH
OIL AND VINEGAR IS,
THEY'RE A LOT LIKE ELIZABETH
TAYLOR AND RICHARD BURTON,
OR THIS STUFF INSIDE
THIS LAVA LAMP.
SEE, THEY DON'T
REALLY GET ALONG.
IT'S A SURFACE-TENSION THING.
SEE, OIL WANTS TO SPREAD OUT AND
COAT EVERYTHING IN THE PLACE,
WHILE VINEGAR WANTS TO JUST
BEAD UP AND ROLL AWAY,
LIKE RAIN ON A FRESHLY
WAXED CAR HOOD.
NOW THEY CAN BE COERCED
INTO WORKING TOGETHER.
THE ADDITION OF AN
EMULSIFIER, FOR INSTANCE,
LIKE EGG YOKE OR MUSTARD,
WOULD DO THE TRICK.
BUT WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, BRUTE
FORCE... WILL DO THE TRICK.
THE PROBLEM IS, IS LIKE LIZ AND
DICK'S FIRST THREE MARRIAGES--
THIS UNION IS TEMPORARY.
I BUILD MY VINAIGRETTES
IN A 1953 COCKTAIL SHAKER
GIVEN TO ME BY DEAN MARTIN.
DEAN AND I WENT TO
COLLEGE TOGETHER.
HIS DAD WAS A BARTENDER.
YOU CAN USE ANY LIDDED
CONTAINER, BUT GLASS IS BEST,
BECAUSE IT DOESN'T HOLD ON TO
FLAVORS THE WAY PLASTIC DOES.
SEE, PLASTIC AND FATS HAVE
CERTAIN MOLECULAR SIMILARITIES,
WHICH IS WHY IT'S SO
HARD TO GET, SAY,
BACON FAT OFF A
BICYCLE SEAT.
YOU CAN ADJUST FOR
PERSONAL TASTE,
BUT THE CLASSIC RULE OF
THUMB FOR VINAIGRETTE
IS A THREE TO ONE
OIL TO VINEGAR RATIO.
MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE RATIO
IS THE PROCESS ITSELF.
YOU WANT TO START WITH
EVERYTHING BUT THE OIL.
IN THIS CASE, I'M GOING
TO GO WITH TWO OUNCES OF RED WINE VINEGAR--
THAT'S 1/4 CUP, YOU KNOW--
AND TWO TEASPOONS OF
SMOOTH DIJON MUSTARD.
WE'RE GOING TO USE A FAT
PINCH OF KOSHER SALT,
TWO CRUSHED CLOVES OF GARLIC AND
A LITTLE BIT OF BLACK PEPPER.
NOW THE POINT HERE IS
DISSOLVE THE SALT
AND INTEGRATE THE MUSTARD
INTO THE VINEGAR.
NOW SINCE OIL ISN'T
TECHNICALLY WET,
THIS IS EASIER DONE
IN ITS ABSENCE.
NOW SINCE WE STARTED WITH
TWO OUNCES OF VINEGAR,
WE'RE GOING TO ADD OIL UP TO THE
EIGHT-OUNCE OR ONE-CUP MARK,
AND THEN WE'LL GIVE IT
JUST A LITTLE EXTRA SHOT FOR THE MUSTARD.
THAT'S GOING TO GET US UP
TO A THREE-TO-ONE RATIO.
NOW SHAKE WITH VIGOR...
THIS IS THE FORCE PART
OF THE EQUATION.
SEE THE MORE YOU SHAKE,
THE MORE THE VINEGAR BREAKS
UP INTO TINY DROPLETS.
WHEN ENOUGH OF THESE DROPLETS
HAVE BEEN SUSPENDED IN THE OIL,
THE MIXTURE WILL THICKEN TO
THE CONSISTENCY OF CREAM.
NOW THE MUSTARD, AS
YOU CAN SEE HERE,
HAS NOT BEEN INVITED
FOR FLAVOR ALONE.
MUSTARD IS MADE UP OF TINY,
SOLID PARTICLES SUSPENDED IN LIQUID.
WHEN ALL THESE LITTLE
BITS, THESE PARTICLES,
BLOCK THE VINEGAR DROPLETS
FROM JOINING TOGETHER
AND SINKING TO THE
BOTTOM OF THE GLASS,
THE MUSTARD IS ACTING
AS AN EMULSIFIER.
THINK OF IT AS THE GLUE THAT
KEEPS THE OIL AND VINEGAR
WORKING TOGETHER.
♪
NOTHING, WELL, ALMOST
NOTHING, IS MORE REPULSIVE
THAN A SALAD SWIMMING IN A
POOL OF WATERED-DOWN DRESSING.
NOW BY PROPERLY PREPPING
AND STORING OUR GREENS,
WE'VE GOT THAT ONE BEAT.
SEE, DRESSINGS STICK
TO DRY LEAVES
BETTER THAN THEY DO
TO WET LEAVES.
SO NOT ONLY DO DRY LEAVES
MAKE BETTER-TASTING SALADS,
THEY CAN ALSO DO THE JOB
WITH A LOT LESS DRESSING.
NOW YOU CAN GET BY WITH JUST
A TEASPOON PER SERVING.
JUST PUT THE DRESSING IN
THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL.
NOW TIME TO INTRODUCE
THE GREENS.
I'VE GOT ABOUT FOUR
SERVINGS HERE,
AND IT'S TIME TO TOSS,
BUT WITH WHAT?
WHEN PROPERLY CLEANED,
THESE ARE THE BEST FRIENDS
DELICATE GREENS EVER HAD.
JUST THINK OF YOUR HAND
AS A BIG, SOFT FORK.
JUST FOLD, LET GRAVITY
DO THE REST, AND THAT'S IT.
NOW WHEN ALL THE LEAVES LOOK
COATED, JUST SHINY, YOU'RE DONE.
RESTAURANTS KEEP THEIR
SALAD PLATES CHILLED,
AND SO SHOULD YOU.
COLD PLATES HELP GREENS
STAY CRISP LONGER...
SO YOUR SALAD
WILL THANK YOU.
HERE'S THE LAST BIG TIP--
SERVE THIS RIGHT AWAY.
MAKE SURE THAT THE
DINERS MEET THEIR CHAIRS
BEFORE THE GREENS
MEET THE DRESSING.
SEE, NO POOL OF DRESSING LEFT
IN THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL.
WE DIDN'T OVERDRESS
FOR DINNER.
WELCOME, TO CLUB CAESAR SALAD.
GRANDDAD OUT BOWLING TONIGHT?
GOOD... KIDS TUCKED IN BED?
EXCELLENT... PLEASE
JOIN US, WON'T YOU?
AFTER ALL, WE THINK
THAT CAESAR SALAD
IS A SALAD BEST ENJOYED
BY CONSENTING ADULTS.
YOU KNOW, IT ALL
STARTED BACK IN 1924,
WHEN CHEF CAESAR CARDINI'S
TIJUANA EATERY WAS JUMPING
WITH PROHIBITION-WEARY,
HOLLYWOOD BIGWIGS,
LOOKING FOR A GOOD TIME.
THINGS GOT SO HEAVY
THAT CHEF CAESAR DECIDED
TO CUT HIS KITCHEN
STAFF SOME SLACK
AND COME UP WITH
A NEW SPECIAL--
ONE THAT WOULD BE PREPARED AT
TABLE AND EATEN WITH THE HANDS,
WHICH MADE IT VERY POPULAR
WITH THE DISHWASHERS.
NOW THE DISH WAS A SALAD, AND
IT WAS SIMPLICITY INCARNATE.
IT ALL BEGAN WITH
THE INNER LEAVES
OF TWO HEADS OF
ROMAINE LETTUCE,
DRESSED SIMPLY WITH A BIT
OF EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL,
THE JUICE OF ONE LEMON,
TWO, MAYBE THREE, DASHES
OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE,
AND 1/4 CUP OF GRATED
PARMESAN CHEESE.
WHAT ABOUT THE ANCHOVIES?
NO, SORRY, NEVER ANCHOVIES
IN CAESAR SALAD.
BUT THERE WILL BE A
LOVELY DRESSING
AND THE PIèCE DE RéSISTANCE,
GARLIC CROUTONS.
YOU'LL EXCUSE ME,
WON'T YOU?
SO I ASKED THIS FRENCH
WOMAN, "WHY IS IT YOU GUYS
"HOLD AMERICAN COOKS IN
SUCH LOW ESTEEM?"
SHE LOOKS RIGHT AT ME,
SHE SAYS,"VOUS ACHETEZ DES CROUTONS."
YOU BUY CROUTONS.
HUH! WELL, NOT ANYMORE I DON'T,
AND NEITHER SHOULD YOU.
IT ALL STARTS WITH A DAY-
OLD LOAF OF ITALIAN BREAD.
JUST CUT IT INTO CUBES,
1/2 TO 3/4 INCH IS FINE.
PUT THE WHOLE THING
IN A 350 DEGREE OVEN.
YOU DON'T WANT THEM TO
COLOR OR GET HARD,
JUST DRY OUT A LITTLE BIT.
THEN PUT ON A SMALL SAUCEPAN
OF WATER TO BOIL...
THAT'S FOR THE EGGS
FOR THE DRESSING, LATER.
AND THEN MASH UP ABOUT
THREE CLOVES OF GARLIC
WITH, LET'S SAY, FOUR
TABLESPOONS OF EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
AND HALF A TEASPOON
OF KOSHER SALT.
IF YOU DON'T HAVE A MORTAR
AND PESTLE, IT'S OKAY,
JUST CRUNCH UP THE GARLIC WITH
WHATEVER YOU'VE GOT HANDY.
WHEN THE CROUTONS ARE DRY,
STRAIN THE OIL INTO A
SKILLET OVER MEDIUM HEAT,
AND THEN FRY THE CROUTONS,
TOSSING CONSTANTLY,
UNTIL ALL THE OIL IS ABSORBED,
AND THEY TAKE ON A GOLDEN COLOR.
YOUR MOUTH WILL WATER FROM THE
SMELL OF GARLIC, I PROMISE.
REMOVE WHEN THEY'RE
DONE, AND COOL.
WHEN THE WATER
COMES TO A BOIL,
ADD YOUR ROOM-TEMPERATURE EGGS
FOR EXACTLY ONE MINUTE...
♪
THEN CHILL THEM TO
STOP THE COOKING.
NOW THE THING I LIKE
BEST ABOUT CAESARS
IS THAT IT'S A PROCESS
BETTER SHARED WITH THE PEOPLE AT THE TABLE.
SO ONCE YOU'VE GOT ALL
YOUR INGREDIENTS IN PLACE,
START OFF BY, WELL,
TELLING A NICE JOKE,
OR MAYBE SOME
WITTY REPARTEE.
YOU LOOK LOVELY TONIGHT...
HOW LONG'S YOUR HAIR BEEN LIKE THAT?
OOH, NICE TIE...
STUFF LIKE THAT.
ANYWAY, ONCE YOU DO FACE
THE SALAD, WE'LL BEGIN
WITH JUST ABOUT TWO TABLESPOONS
OF EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL--
NOT THE CHEAP STUFF--THIS IS THE
TIME TO GET OUT THE GOOD STUFF.
BUT NO MORE THAN
TWO TABLESPOONS.
THE POINT, RIGHT
NOW AT LEAST,
IS TO JUST START TO
COAT THE LEAVES.
THIS IS A DRESSING
THAT GETS BUILT,
STAGE BY STAGE,
ONTO THE LEAVES.
HOW ARE THE KIDS?
DOING WELL IN SCHOOL?
HOW DO YOU LIKE THAT
NEW VOLARE WAGON?
THAT KIND OF THING.
NOW ONCE YOU'VE GOT
THE OLIVE OIL ON,
WE'RE GOING TO
SEASON THE LEAVES
WITH A HEAVY PINCH
OF KOSHER SALT.
YOU CAN GO WITH A LITTLE
LESS IF YOU USE SEA SALT--
AND IF YOU DECIDE TO
USE REGULAR TABLE SALT,
WELL, JUST DON'T MAKE
CAESARS AT ALL THEN--
AND SEVEN GRINDS OF PEPPER--
COARSE, OF COURSE.
TOSS AGAIN, AND NO,
THAT'S NOT TOO MUCH PEPPER.
WE'LL ADD THE LAST PART
OF THE OLIVE OIL,
ABOUT ANOTHER ONE, MAYBE
TWO, TABLESPOONS.
AGAIN, IT'S THE GOOD STUFF,
AND TOSS AGAIN.
HAVE YOU MET THE NEW NEIGHBORS?
HOW ARE THEY?
YES, THEIR DOG BARKS VERY
LOUDLY... YADA-YADA-YADA.
NOW WE'RE GOING TO ADD THE
ACID PART OF THE DRESSING--
LEMON JUICE,
ONE WHOLE LEMON.
JUST WRING IT RIGHT
OVER THE SALAD.
IF YOU HAPPEN TO
GET A SEED IN THERE,
DON'T WORRY, WON'T
HURT ANYBODY.
THEN AFTER THE LEMON, THREE
SHOTS OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE--
AND THIS IS ACTUALLY
WHY A LOT OF PEOPLE
THINK THAT THERE ARE
ANCHOVIES IN CAESARS,
BECAUSE THERE'S ANCHOVIES
IN WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE.
ONE, TWO, THREE...
WHOA, THAT'S ENOUGH!
THAT'LL DO IT.
AND TOSS AGAIN,
JUST BRIEFLY.
AND NOW WE COME TO THE EGG
PORTION OF THE PROGRAM...
OUR TWO CODDLED EGGS... ONE-
MINUTE EGGS, NOT COMPLETELY RAW,
BUT THEY'RE CERTAINLY NOT DONE
ENOUGH TO BE CALLED COOKED.
NOW EGGS CAN, AT LEAST
IN THE LAST FEW YEARS,
CARRY SALMONELLA.
AND IF YOU HAPPEN TO GET
THE, SAY, 1 IN 20,000 EGGS
THAT ARE INFECTED, AND IF
YOU HAPPEN TO STORE IT BADLY,
SAY HOLDING IT AT THE WRONG
TEMPERATURE FOR TOO LONG,
OR COOKING IT TOO EARLY AND
LEAVING IT AROUND THE HOUSE
FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS, YOU
COULD, MAYBE, GET SICK.
BUT THAT'S AN
AWFUL LOT OF IFs.
SO TOSS JUST UNTIL YOU
SEE THIS BEAUTIFUL,
KIND OF CREAMY DRESSING
COME TOGETHER.
SEE THAT? LOVELY.
JUST TOSS UNTIL
YOU SEE THAT,
THEN WE'RE GOING TO
GRATE ON THE CHEESE,
ABOUT 1/4 CUP OF PARMESAN.
YOU CAN USE ROMANO IF YOU LIKE,
BUT I LIKE THE TRADITION,
SO I'M GOING TO
GO WITH PARM.
AND THEN THE REASON THAT
CAESAR SHOULD EXIST--
THE GARLIC CROUTONS.
HOLD A LITTLE BACK FOR THE COOK
TO EAT IN THE KITCHEN LATER.
AND TOSS ONCE AGAIN.
THAT IS A SALAD THAT
CAESAR WOULD BE PROUD OF.
BUILT WITH CARE,
THE CAESAR SALAD
IS THE PERFECT
AMALGAM OF FLAVORS.
YOU'VE GOT THE CRISP
SWEETNESS OF THE LETTUCE,
THE SALTINESS OF
THE CHEESE,
THE KIND OF EARTHY
CREAMINESS OF THE DRESSING.
IT'S PRETTY MUCH
PERFECT...
BUT I THINK WHAT I
LIKE BEST ABOUT IT
IS THE MAKING OF IT.
IT'S NOT LIKE SOME
RECIPES THAT YOU PUT TOGETHER
LIKE A BAD BOOKSHELF
KIT... IT GOES TOGETHER LIKE A DANCE,
AND IT'S A DANCE
THAT WILL DEFINITELY LEAVE YOUR GUESTS
IN THE MOOD FOR SOME
SERIOUSLY "GOOD EATS,"
AS WELL AS WHATEVER
THE EVENING MAY BRING.
SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
♪
NECESSITY.
THOSE WHO GOT PAST THE DIRT
AND OCCASIONAL SNAKE
NOTICED THEY FELT BETTER,
SMELLED BETTER,
AND EVEN LIVED
A LITTLE LONGER.
AN ICE AGE OR TWO LATER,
THE SALAD FINALLY GETS ITS
NAME FROM THE ROMANS,
WHOSE FAVORITE DRESSING IS
SAL--SALT, LOTS OF SALT.
THE YEAR, 1607... LOOKING
FOR A PHRASE TO DESCRIBE
TIMES OF YOUTHFUL
INEXPERIENCE,
ELIZABETHAN WORDSMITH
WILL SHAKESPEARE
COINS THE PHRASE
"SALAD DAYS."
RUSHING TO SERVE THE SALAD-
CRAZED, LOUIS XIV,
AN OIL VENDER AND
VINEGAR MAKER
SHARE A CARRIAGE RIDE
AND MAKE A DISCOVERY.
IDIOT!
STUPIDO!
YOU'VE GOTTEN
YOUR GREASY OIL
INSIDE MY
BEAUTIFUL VINEGAR!
YOU GOT THIS SMELLY
OLE, STINKY WINE STUFF
INTO MY
WONDERFUL OIL!
HEY, THAT'S
NOT BAD!
IT'S PERFECT!
YEAH!
SOME 300 YEARS LATER, A CHICAGO
RESTAURATEUR HAS AN IDEA
AND CHANGES THE
SALAD WORLD FOREVER.
THE INNOVATIVE '90s HAVE
BROUGHT THE SALAD FULL CIRCLE.
OH, AND WITH A SIDE OF
CURRIED BOYSENBERRY VINAIGRETTE... OH MY.
YOU KNOW, IN FRENCH,
SALAD ALSO MEANS MESS.
AND I SAY, WELL IF THE SHOE
FITS, YOU MUST AQUIT.
JOIN US AS WE DECIDE
FOR THE MUCH MALIGNED AND OVERWROUGHT TOSSED SALAD.
WE'LL TOUR THE
WORLD OF GREENS,
CONTEMPLATE THE DEEP RECESSES
OF YOUR CRISPER DRAWER,
CHECK OUT SOME GOT-
TO-HAVE TOOLS,
AND DRESS PROPERLY
FOR DINNER.
I MAY HAVE MY DOUBTS
ABOUT THIS...
BUT THIS, I'M SURE,
IS "GOOD EATS."
♪
THE WAY WE SEE IT,
THE SALAD UNIVERSE SPLITS
INTO TWO DISTINCT GALAXIES--
THE MILD, SWEET LETTUCES AND
THE LOOSE FEDERATION OF CHICORY,
WATERCRESS, ESCAROLE,
RADICCHIO, ENDIVE, ARUGULA--
WHAT I CALL THE MEAN GREENS.
THE ART IN ALL THIS, IS
TO PERSONALIZE THE MIX,
FIND THE BALANCE THAT LEADS
YOU TO SALAD HAPPINESS.
DON'T FEEL LIKE
HEADHUNTING?
CUT-AND-CLEANED MIXES ARE THE
SALAD-BOWL TREND OF THE DAY.
FROM THE OLD PROVENCAL
WORD FOR MIXTURE,
MESCLUN WAS ORIGINALLY
AN INTRICATE,
BUT BALANCED, BLEND OF ABOUT
12, MAYBE, 15 YOUNG GREENS.
THESE DAYS, JUST ABOUT ANY YOUNG
MIXTURE GETS CALLED MESCLUN--
WHETHER IT IS OR NOT--
OFTEN WITH MIXED RESULTS.
STILL, IF IT'S FRESH AND
SOLD LOOSE LIKE THIS,
MESCLUN CAN BE AN
EXCELLENT VALUE,
ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE
ARE TRYING TO GET
INTO THE EXOTIC GREEN
POOL ONE FOOT AT A TIME.
BUT BE CAREFUL ABOUT PREPACKAGED
OR BAGGED MESCLUN MIXES.
IT'S VERY FRAGILE
AND PERISHABLE,
AND SO OFTEN THE PRETTY
PICTURE YOU GET IN THE FRONT OF THE WINDOW
ISN'T WHAT'S GOING
ON INSIDE THE BAG.
WANT TO KNOW WHAT FRESH
GREENS SHOULD LOOK LIKE
IN YOUR PRODUCE DEPARTMENT?
WELL, AS MUCH LIKE
THIS AS POSSIBLE.
I MEAN, JUST LOOK AT THIS HEAD
OF BUTTERCRISP LETTUCE...
IT'S PERFECT.
THE LEAVES ARE CRISP--THERE
ARE NO BLEMISHES ANYWHERE.
IT'S JUST PERFECT.
IT HOLDS ITS SHAPE WHEN
IT'S MOVED AROUND,
NO SLIMY SPOTS--THIS IS
GRADE A PRODUCE.
THIS IS WHAT YOU SHOULD LOOK
FOR IN ANY LETTUCE, REALLY,
WHETHER IT'S A TIGHT
HEAD OR A LOOSE HEAD.
NOW ADMITTEDLY, SOME
LETTUCES ARE NEVER GOING TO BE THIS CRISP.
THERE ARE SOME MORE
DELICATE GREENS.
FOR INSTANCE, THIS FRISéE
IS A MUCH LOOSER HEAD,
AND IT'S NEVER GOING TO BE AS
CRISP AS THAT BUTTERCRISP,
BUT IT DOES HAVE A LOT OF
THE SAME CHARACTERISTICS.
THERE ARE NO BLEMISHES...
THE COLOR IS BRIGHT.
THE LEAVES ARE CRISP, EVEN
THOUGH THEY ARE DELICATE.
AND ABOVE ALL,
THERE'S NO WILTING.
IT'S A GREAT
HEAD OF LETTUCE.
OH, AND THESE WHITE
CAPS, BY THE WAY,
ARE PUT ON JUST A FEW
DAYS BEFORE HARVEST,
SO THAT THE HEART
WILL TURN WHITE.
IT'S A FRENCH THING.
NOW HEAVY-RIBBED
HEADS, LIKE ROMAINE
AND THIS LOOSE-HEAD RADICCHIO,
SHOULD STAND UP STRAIGHT
WITHOUT ANY SIGNS OF
CRACKS ALONG THE RIBS.
NOW WILTED GOODS ARE
EITHER OLD OR DAMAGED,
AND WHILE MANY GREENS CAN
BE REVIVED, TO A POINT,
BY SOAKING IN COLD WATER,
OFF SPECIMENS ARE NEVER
FULLY GOING TO RECOVER.
TAKE TIME TO LOOK CLOSELY AT
YOUR PERSPECTIVE SALAD FODDER.
FEEL THE LEAVES, AND
IF NOBODY'S LOOKING,
JUST GO AHEAD AND
TAKE A BITE.
SO WHAT ARE
YOU EATING? BUSTED,
BY BENJAMIN
BUNNY.
UM, NOTHING.
YOU MUST BE
DOUG GALLAGHER. I AM.
PLEASURE, NICE
ORGANIC SPREAD YOU GOT GOING HERE. THANK YOU.
SO DOUG, WHAT DOES
A GUY LIKE YOU
HAVE TO DO TO GROW
LETTUCE LIKE THIS?
WELL, WE TAKE CARE OF
THE SOIL, FIRST THING,
AND THAT GROWS A
BETTER PLANT.
THAT MAKES SENSE.
WE USE A LOT OF COMPOST
AND BUILD THE SOIL.
WE ALSO USE ROCK POWDERS
AND OYSTER SHELL,
AND THEN COVER CROPPING
IN THE WINTER.
SO YOU JUST
TURN THAT IN.
IT'S LIKE RAISING YOUR
OWN FERTILIZER, RIGHT?
RIGHT.
HOW CAN PEOPLE AT HOME MAKE
SURE THAT THEY BUY THE BEST?
BUYING LOCALLY IS GOOD...
FARMERS MARKETS
OR FARM STANDS,
AND ASK YOUR GROCER,
PRODUCE MAN, YOU KNOW.
OKAY, SO COME
CLEAN, DOUG,
DO YOU EAT YOUR VEGETABLES?
DO YOU EAT YOUR SALAD?
I SURE DO...
FRISéE AND ARUGULA.
GOOD DEAL, YOU
GOT IT GOING.
OKAY, SO MAYBE YOU'RE NOT BUYING
ORGANIC FRISéE EVERY DAY,
OR NETTLES, OR RADICCHIO,
OR BUTTERCRISP LETTUCE,
BUT EVEN THAT HARDY HEAD OF
ICEBERG DESERVES SOME RESPECT.
SO BE GENTLE, WILL YOU?
I MEAN, SALAD GREENS ARE A
LOT LIKE NITROGLYCERIN.
THEY'RE NOT GOING TO TOLERATE
ROUGH HANDLING IN THE FIELD,
IN THE STORE, AND THEY'RE NOT
GOING TO TOLERATE IT AT HOME.
SO BE GENTLE.
♪
THIS IS HOW MUCH
CARBON DIOXIDE
A ONE-POUND HEAD OF LETTUCE CAN
EXHALE WHILE YOU'RE AT WORK.
THAT'S RIGHT, EVEN
AFTER HARVEST,
GREENS, ESPECIALLY LETTUCES,
GO ON ABOUT THEIR BUSINESS,
METABOLIZING NUTRIENTS
AND BREATHING.
SO IF YOU WANT THE GREENS
THAT YOU BOUGHT ON MONDAY
TO MAKE IT THROUGH
TO SEE SUNDAY,
YOU'RE GOING TO
HAVE TO FORCE THEM
INTO A KIND OF SUSPENDED
ANIMATION...
WHICH AS ANYONE WHO'S EVER SEEN
A SCIENCE FICTION MOVIE
CAN TELL YOU, INVOLVES
A FEW STEPS.
BATH TIME...
FILL A SINK WITH ABOUT AS MUCH
COLD WATER AS IT WILL HOLD.
NOW REMEMBER, LETTUCE
GROWS IN DIRT,
AND BELIEVE IT OR NOT,
BY THE TIME YOU GET IT HOME,
IT'S STILL GOT A LOT
OF DIRT WITH IT.
FILLING THE SINK ALL THE WAY
WILL ALLOW US TO GET THE
DIRT OFF THE LETTUCE
AND LET IT SINK TO THE
BOTTOM OF THE SINK.
MOST LETTUCES WILL LAST LONGER
IF THE LEAVES ARE LEFT INTACT.
BUT SOME HARDIER HEADS,
LIKE THIS RADICCHIO
AND THIS ROMAINE, YOU
CAN CUT WITH A KNIFE.
WHAT ARE
YOU DOING!
YOU SHOULD NEVER
CUT ZE GREENS WITH A KNIFE!
TEAR ZE GREENS,
DO SMALL... GENTLY.
AAAUUUGGGHHH!!!
HEH, HEH.
WELL, THIS IS WHAT HE'S
TALKING ABOUT...
ALL THE LEAVES OF GREENS
AND LETTUCES ARE BASICALLY
LITTLE, BITTY, CELLULOSE
BOXES THAT ARE FULL OF WATER.
IT'S KIND OF LIKE
THIS BUBBLE WRAP.
JUST PRETEND THAT THESE ARE
FULL OF WATER, INSTEAD OF AIR.
WHEN YOU CUT A LEAF...
WELL, BESIDES LOOKING LIKE NORMAN BATES,
YOU BREACH SOME OF THE CELLS.
NOW ON A SOFTER,
MORE FRAGILE LEAF,
THIS WOULD RESULT IN BRUISING,
A KIND OF DARKENING
ALONG THE EDGE OF THE CUT,
WHICH IS UGLY AND GUMMY.
BUT IF YOU TEAR THE SAME LEAF,
THE LEAVES JUST SPLIT, RIGHT
ALONG THE CELL BOUNDARY.
SO IF YOU'RE PREPPING
DELICATE STUFF,
EITHER TEAR IT OR LEAVE THEM
WHOLE UNTIL YOU SERVE THEM.
HARDY LEAVES LIKE ROMAINE,
GO AHEAD AND CUT...
DON'T WORRY ABOUT
WHAT CHEF SAID.
JUST BE SURE YOU
SLICE, DON'T HACK.
WASHING ISN'T JUST
ABOUT COMING CLEAN,
IT'S ABOUT REHYDRATING--
LOADING UP THE LEAVES
WITH PLENTY OF MOISTURE,
SO THEY'LL STAY CRISP
DURING THEIR LONG NAP
IN THE REFRIGERATOR.
YOU'RE GOING TO BE SURPRISED
HOW EVEN BADLY WILTED GREENS
CAN BOUNCE BACK AFTER
A 20-MINUTE COLD SOAK.
YOU MIGHT ALSO BE SURPRISED
AT HOW MUCH DIRT THERE IS
IN THE BOTTOM OF THE SINK.
I'VE HEARD OF VITAMINS
AND MINERALS,
BUT THAT'S RIDICULOUS.
SO GIVE THESE ABOUT A
TWO- TO THREE-MINUTE DRAIN,
THEN TAKE THEM FOR A SPIN.
AS WE HAVE NOW SEEN, MOISTURE
INSIDE THE GREENS--GOOD.
BUT MOISTURE ON
THE GREENS--BAD.
THAT'S WHY WE'RE HERE,
MEETING UP WITH OUR
EQUIPMENT SPECIALIST, W.
(w)
WHAT YOU NEED IS A SPINNER.
MY THOUGHTS EXACTLY.
PAY ATTENTION, WILL YOU?
A SPINNER IS A
CENTRIFUGE.
YOU KNOW, LIKE THE SPIN CYCLE
IN YOUR WASHING MACHINE.
YEAH, I SAW ONE OF
THOSE ONCE.
IT'S THE BEST WAY TO
DRY GREENS FAST.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN
MAKES AND MODELS
USUALLY REVOLVES AROUND
THE DRIVE MECHANISM.
I CAN'T GET THIS
ONE TO START.
THIS IS MY FAVORITE.
IT UTILIZES A SPRING-LOADED,
ARCHIMEDES SCREW.
OH, ARCHIMEDES,
OF COURSE.
JUST PUNCH IT A
COUPLE OF TIMES,
AND IT EVEN
HAS A BRAKE.
SO, GREENS...
ALL DRY, YES.
WET WATER
STUFF, HERE.
I'LL TAKE IT...
WONDERFUL JOB.
BUT YOU KNOW, YOU REALLY SHOULD
GET THE LAWN MOWER FIXED.
NOW THAT THE SPIN CYCLE
IS FINISHING UP,
THERE'S ONE LAST STEP TO
SUSPENDED LETTUCE ANIMATIO,
AND THAT'S OXYGEN
DEPRIVATION.
AFTER ALL, GREENS WON'T ROT SO
FAST IF THEY CAN'T BREATHE,
AND THEY CAN'T BREATHE
IF THERE'S NO AIR.
SO JUST SPREAD THE GREENS OUT
ON A SINGLE LAYER OF PAPER TOWEL
AND THEN ROLL THEM
UP LOOSELY.
AND WE'RE GOING TO
POP THIS WHOLE THING
INTO A HEAVY, RESEALABLE
KITCHEN BAG.
NOW THE TOWEL IS GOING TO WICK
AWAY ANY SURFACE MOISTURE,
AND THEN SLOWLY GIVE IT
BACK AS THE GREENS NEED IT.
SQUEEZE OUT AS MUCH
AIR AS YOU CAN,
WITHOUT CRUSHING THE GREENS,
AND THEN JUST USE A REGULAR
STRAW TO SUCK OUT THE REST.
LAMINATED LETTUCE... PERFECT
FOR HOLIDAY GIFT GIVING.
♪
SO HOW MANY COOKS DOES IT
TAKE TO MAKE SALAD DRESSING?
WELL, THERE'S AN OLD KITCHEN
PROVERB THAT SAYS THREE.
YOU'VE GOT A MISER
FOR THE VINEGAR,
A SPENDTHRIFT FOR THE OIL,
AND A WISEMAN FOR THE SALT.
THE DRESSING IN
QUESTION, OF COURSE,
IS THE MARTINI OF THE SALAD
WORLD--THE VINAIGRETTE,
THAT ETHEREAL COUPLING
OF OIL AND WINE,
WHICH, THROUGH THE METABOLIC
ACTIVITY OF ACIDIC BACTERIA,
HAS BECOME VINEGAR.
BUT THE PROBLEM WITH
OIL AND VINEGAR IS,
THEY'RE A LOT LIKE ELIZABETH
TAYLOR AND RICHARD BURTON,
OR THIS STUFF INSIDE
THIS LAVA LAMP.
SEE, THEY DON'T
REALLY GET ALONG.
IT'S A SURFACE-TENSION THING.
SEE, OIL WANTS TO SPREAD OUT AND
COAT EVERYTHING IN THE PLACE,
WHILE VINEGAR WANTS TO JUST
BEAD UP AND ROLL AWAY,
LIKE RAIN ON A FRESHLY
WAXED CAR HOOD.
NOW THEY CAN BE COERCED
INTO WORKING TOGETHER.
THE ADDITION OF AN
EMULSIFIER, FOR INSTANCE,
LIKE EGG YOKE OR MUSTARD,
WOULD DO THE TRICK.
BUT WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, BRUTE
FORCE... WILL DO THE TRICK.
THE PROBLEM IS, IS LIKE LIZ AND
DICK'S FIRST THREE MARRIAGES--
THIS UNION IS TEMPORARY.
I BUILD MY VINAIGRETTES
IN A 1953 COCKTAIL SHAKER
GIVEN TO ME BY DEAN MARTIN.
DEAN AND I WENT TO
COLLEGE TOGETHER.
HIS DAD WAS A BARTENDER.
YOU CAN USE ANY LIDDED
CONTAINER, BUT GLASS IS BEST,
BECAUSE IT DOESN'T HOLD ON TO
FLAVORS THE WAY PLASTIC DOES.
SEE, PLASTIC AND FATS HAVE
CERTAIN MOLECULAR SIMILARITIES,
WHICH IS WHY IT'S SO
HARD TO GET, SAY,
BACON FAT OFF A
BICYCLE SEAT.
YOU CAN ADJUST FOR
PERSONAL TASTE,
BUT THE CLASSIC RULE OF
THUMB FOR VINAIGRETTE
IS A THREE TO ONE
OIL TO VINEGAR RATIO.
MORE IMPORTANT THAN THE RATIO
IS THE PROCESS ITSELF.
YOU WANT TO START WITH
EVERYTHING BUT THE OIL.
IN THIS CASE, I'M GOING
TO GO WITH TWO OUNCES OF RED WINE VINEGAR--
THAT'S 1/4 CUP, YOU KNOW--
AND TWO TEASPOONS OF
SMOOTH DIJON MUSTARD.
WE'RE GOING TO USE A FAT
PINCH OF KOSHER SALT,
TWO CRUSHED CLOVES OF GARLIC AND
A LITTLE BIT OF BLACK PEPPER.
NOW THE POINT HERE IS
DISSOLVE THE SALT
AND INTEGRATE THE MUSTARD
INTO THE VINEGAR.
NOW SINCE OIL ISN'T
TECHNICALLY WET,
THIS IS EASIER DONE
IN ITS ABSENCE.
NOW SINCE WE STARTED WITH
TWO OUNCES OF VINEGAR,
WE'RE GOING TO ADD OIL UP TO THE
EIGHT-OUNCE OR ONE-CUP MARK,
AND THEN WE'LL GIVE IT
JUST A LITTLE EXTRA SHOT FOR THE MUSTARD.
THAT'S GOING TO GET US UP
TO A THREE-TO-ONE RATIO.
NOW SHAKE WITH VIGOR...
THIS IS THE FORCE PART
OF THE EQUATION.
SEE THE MORE YOU SHAKE,
THE MORE THE VINEGAR BREAKS
UP INTO TINY DROPLETS.
WHEN ENOUGH OF THESE DROPLETS
HAVE BEEN SUSPENDED IN THE OIL,
THE MIXTURE WILL THICKEN TO
THE CONSISTENCY OF CREAM.
NOW THE MUSTARD, AS
YOU CAN SEE HERE,
HAS NOT BEEN INVITED
FOR FLAVOR ALONE.
MUSTARD IS MADE UP OF TINY,
SOLID PARTICLES SUSPENDED IN LIQUID.
WHEN ALL THESE LITTLE
BITS, THESE PARTICLES,
BLOCK THE VINEGAR DROPLETS
FROM JOINING TOGETHER
AND SINKING TO THE
BOTTOM OF THE GLASS,
THE MUSTARD IS ACTING
AS AN EMULSIFIER.
THINK OF IT AS THE GLUE THAT
KEEPS THE OIL AND VINEGAR
WORKING TOGETHER.
♪
NOTHING, WELL, ALMOST
NOTHING, IS MORE REPULSIVE
THAN A SALAD SWIMMING IN A
POOL OF WATERED-DOWN DRESSING.
NOW BY PROPERLY PREPPING
AND STORING OUR GREENS,
WE'VE GOT THAT ONE BEAT.
SEE, DRESSINGS STICK
TO DRY LEAVES
BETTER THAN THEY DO
TO WET LEAVES.
SO NOT ONLY DO DRY LEAVES
MAKE BETTER-TASTING SALADS,
THEY CAN ALSO DO THE JOB
WITH A LOT LESS DRESSING.
NOW YOU CAN GET BY WITH JUST
A TEASPOON PER SERVING.
JUST PUT THE DRESSING IN
THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL.
NOW TIME TO INTRODUCE
THE GREENS.
I'VE GOT ABOUT FOUR
SERVINGS HERE,
AND IT'S TIME TO TOSS,
BUT WITH WHAT?
WHEN PROPERLY CLEANED,
THESE ARE THE BEST FRIENDS
DELICATE GREENS EVER HAD.
JUST THINK OF YOUR HAND
AS A BIG, SOFT FORK.
JUST FOLD, LET GRAVITY
DO THE REST, AND THAT'S IT.
NOW WHEN ALL THE LEAVES LOOK
COATED, JUST SHINY, YOU'RE DONE.
RESTAURANTS KEEP THEIR
SALAD PLATES CHILLED,
AND SO SHOULD YOU.
COLD PLATES HELP GREENS
STAY CRISP LONGER...
SO YOUR SALAD
WILL THANK YOU.
HERE'S THE LAST BIG TIP--
SERVE THIS RIGHT AWAY.
MAKE SURE THAT THE
DINERS MEET THEIR CHAIRS
BEFORE THE GREENS
MEET THE DRESSING.
SEE, NO POOL OF DRESSING LEFT
IN THE BOTTOM OF THE BOWL.
WE DIDN'T OVERDRESS
FOR DINNER.
WELCOME, TO CLUB CAESAR SALAD.
GRANDDAD OUT BOWLING TONIGHT?
GOOD... KIDS TUCKED IN BED?
EXCELLENT... PLEASE
JOIN US, WON'T YOU?
AFTER ALL, WE THINK
THAT CAESAR SALAD
IS A SALAD BEST ENJOYED
BY CONSENTING ADULTS.
YOU KNOW, IT ALL
STARTED BACK IN 1924,
WHEN CHEF CAESAR CARDINI'S
TIJUANA EATERY WAS JUMPING
WITH PROHIBITION-WEARY,
HOLLYWOOD BIGWIGS,
LOOKING FOR A GOOD TIME.
THINGS GOT SO HEAVY
THAT CHEF CAESAR DECIDED
TO CUT HIS KITCHEN
STAFF SOME SLACK
AND COME UP WITH
A NEW SPECIAL--
ONE THAT WOULD BE PREPARED AT
TABLE AND EATEN WITH THE HANDS,
WHICH MADE IT VERY POPULAR
WITH THE DISHWASHERS.
NOW THE DISH WAS A SALAD, AND
IT WAS SIMPLICITY INCARNATE.
IT ALL BEGAN WITH
THE INNER LEAVES
OF TWO HEADS OF
ROMAINE LETTUCE,
DRESSED SIMPLY WITH A BIT
OF EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL,
THE JUICE OF ONE LEMON,
TWO, MAYBE THREE, DASHES
OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE,
AND 1/4 CUP OF GRATED
PARMESAN CHEESE.
WHAT ABOUT THE ANCHOVIES?
NO, SORRY, NEVER ANCHOVIES
IN CAESAR SALAD.
BUT THERE WILL BE A
LOVELY DRESSING
AND THE PIèCE DE RéSISTANCE,
GARLIC CROUTONS.
YOU'LL EXCUSE ME,
WON'T YOU?
SO I ASKED THIS FRENCH
WOMAN, "WHY IS IT YOU GUYS
"HOLD AMERICAN COOKS IN
SUCH LOW ESTEEM?"
SHE LOOKS RIGHT AT ME,
SHE SAYS,"VOUS ACHETEZ DES CROUTONS."
YOU BUY CROUTONS.
HUH! WELL, NOT ANYMORE I DON'T,
AND NEITHER SHOULD YOU.
IT ALL STARTS WITH A DAY-
OLD LOAF OF ITALIAN BREAD.
JUST CUT IT INTO CUBES,
1/2 TO 3/4 INCH IS FINE.
PUT THE WHOLE THING
IN A 350 DEGREE OVEN.
YOU DON'T WANT THEM TO
COLOR OR GET HARD,
JUST DRY OUT A LITTLE BIT.
THEN PUT ON A SMALL SAUCEPAN
OF WATER TO BOIL...
THAT'S FOR THE EGGS
FOR THE DRESSING, LATER.
AND THEN MASH UP ABOUT
THREE CLOVES OF GARLIC
WITH, LET'S SAY, FOUR
TABLESPOONS OF EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
AND HALF A TEASPOON
OF KOSHER SALT.
IF YOU DON'T HAVE A MORTAR
AND PESTLE, IT'S OKAY,
JUST CRUNCH UP THE GARLIC WITH
WHATEVER YOU'VE GOT HANDY.
WHEN THE CROUTONS ARE DRY,
STRAIN THE OIL INTO A
SKILLET OVER MEDIUM HEAT,
AND THEN FRY THE CROUTONS,
TOSSING CONSTANTLY,
UNTIL ALL THE OIL IS ABSORBED,
AND THEY TAKE ON A GOLDEN COLOR.
YOUR MOUTH WILL WATER FROM THE
SMELL OF GARLIC, I PROMISE.
REMOVE WHEN THEY'RE
DONE, AND COOL.
WHEN THE WATER
COMES TO A BOIL,
ADD YOUR ROOM-TEMPERATURE EGGS
FOR EXACTLY ONE MINUTE...
♪
THEN CHILL THEM TO
STOP THE COOKING.
NOW THE THING I LIKE
BEST ABOUT CAESARS
IS THAT IT'S A PROCESS
BETTER SHARED WITH THE PEOPLE AT THE TABLE.
SO ONCE YOU'VE GOT ALL
YOUR INGREDIENTS IN PLACE,
START OFF BY, WELL,
TELLING A NICE JOKE,
OR MAYBE SOME
WITTY REPARTEE.
YOU LOOK LOVELY TONIGHT...
HOW LONG'S YOUR HAIR BEEN LIKE THAT?
OOH, NICE TIE...
STUFF LIKE THAT.
ANYWAY, ONCE YOU DO FACE
THE SALAD, WE'LL BEGIN
WITH JUST ABOUT TWO TABLESPOONS
OF EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL--
NOT THE CHEAP STUFF--THIS IS THE
TIME TO GET OUT THE GOOD STUFF.
BUT NO MORE THAN
TWO TABLESPOONS.
THE POINT, RIGHT
NOW AT LEAST,
IS TO JUST START TO
COAT THE LEAVES.
THIS IS A DRESSING
THAT GETS BUILT,
STAGE BY STAGE,
ONTO THE LEAVES.
HOW ARE THE KIDS?
DOING WELL IN SCHOOL?
HOW DO YOU LIKE THAT
NEW VOLARE WAGON?
THAT KIND OF THING.
NOW ONCE YOU'VE GOT
THE OLIVE OIL ON,
WE'RE GOING TO
SEASON THE LEAVES
WITH A HEAVY PINCH
OF KOSHER SALT.
YOU CAN GO WITH A LITTLE
LESS IF YOU USE SEA SALT--
AND IF YOU DECIDE TO
USE REGULAR TABLE SALT,
WELL, JUST DON'T MAKE
CAESARS AT ALL THEN--
AND SEVEN GRINDS OF PEPPER--
COARSE, OF COURSE.
TOSS AGAIN, AND NO,
THAT'S NOT TOO MUCH PEPPER.
WE'LL ADD THE LAST PART
OF THE OLIVE OIL,
ABOUT ANOTHER ONE, MAYBE
TWO, TABLESPOONS.
AGAIN, IT'S THE GOOD STUFF,
AND TOSS AGAIN.
HAVE YOU MET THE NEW NEIGHBORS?
HOW ARE THEY?
YES, THEIR DOG BARKS VERY
LOUDLY... YADA-YADA-YADA.
NOW WE'RE GOING TO ADD THE
ACID PART OF THE DRESSING--
LEMON JUICE,
ONE WHOLE LEMON.
JUST WRING IT RIGHT
OVER THE SALAD.
IF YOU HAPPEN TO
GET A SEED IN THERE,
DON'T WORRY, WON'T
HURT ANYBODY.
THEN AFTER THE LEMON, THREE
SHOTS OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE--
AND THIS IS ACTUALLY
WHY A LOT OF PEOPLE
THINK THAT THERE ARE
ANCHOVIES IN CAESARS,
BECAUSE THERE'S ANCHOVIES
IN WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE.
ONE, TWO, THREE...
WHOA, THAT'S ENOUGH!
THAT'LL DO IT.
AND TOSS AGAIN,
JUST BRIEFLY.
AND NOW WE COME TO THE EGG
PORTION OF THE PROGRAM...
OUR TWO CODDLED EGGS... ONE-
MINUTE EGGS, NOT COMPLETELY RAW,
BUT THEY'RE CERTAINLY NOT DONE
ENOUGH TO BE CALLED COOKED.
NOW EGGS CAN, AT LEAST
IN THE LAST FEW YEARS,
CARRY SALMONELLA.
AND IF YOU HAPPEN TO GET
THE, SAY, 1 IN 20,000 EGGS
THAT ARE INFECTED, AND IF
YOU HAPPEN TO STORE IT BADLY,
SAY HOLDING IT AT THE WRONG
TEMPERATURE FOR TOO LONG,
OR COOKING IT TOO EARLY AND
LEAVING IT AROUND THE HOUSE
FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS, YOU
COULD, MAYBE, GET SICK.
BUT THAT'S AN
AWFUL LOT OF IFs.
SO TOSS JUST UNTIL YOU
SEE THIS BEAUTIFUL,
KIND OF CREAMY DRESSING
COME TOGETHER.
SEE THAT? LOVELY.
JUST TOSS UNTIL
YOU SEE THAT,
THEN WE'RE GOING TO
GRATE ON THE CHEESE,
ABOUT 1/4 CUP OF PARMESAN.
YOU CAN USE ROMANO IF YOU LIKE,
BUT I LIKE THE TRADITION,
SO I'M GOING TO
GO WITH PARM.
AND THEN THE REASON THAT
CAESAR SHOULD EXIST--
THE GARLIC CROUTONS.
HOLD A LITTLE BACK FOR THE COOK
TO EAT IN THE KITCHEN LATER.
AND TOSS ONCE AGAIN.
THAT IS A SALAD THAT
CAESAR WOULD BE PROUD OF.
BUILT WITH CARE,
THE CAESAR SALAD
IS THE PERFECT
AMALGAM OF FLAVORS.
YOU'VE GOT THE CRISP
SWEETNESS OF THE LETTUCE,
THE SALTINESS OF
THE CHEESE,
THE KIND OF EARTHY
CREAMINESS OF THE DRESSING.
IT'S PRETTY MUCH
PERFECT...
BUT I THINK WHAT I
LIKE BEST ABOUT IT
IS THE MAKING OF IT.
IT'S NOT LIKE SOME
RECIPES THAT YOU PUT TOGETHER
LIKE A BAD BOOKSHELF
KIT... IT GOES TOGETHER LIKE A DANCE,
AND IT'S A DANCE
THAT WILL DEFINITELY LEAVE YOUR GUESTS
IN THE MOOD FOR SOME
SERIOUSLY "GOOD EATS,"
AS WELL AS WHATEVER
THE EVENING MAY BRING.
SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
♪