Glow Up: Britain's Next Make-Up Star (2019–…): Season 4, Episode 7 - Episode #4.7 - full transcript
[Maya Jama] It's time to Glow Up
New York, Milan, Paris, London
This week, the MUAs have to
work it, work it, work it, baby
'Cause the semifinals
is all about high fashion
Sweetie. Darling. Muah, muah
[upbeat music plays]
[Maya] There are now just four MUAs
left in the competition
Morning, MUAs
[all] Morning
Welcome to the semifinal!
[all cheer and laugh]
I am so proud of you
and so excited for today's assignment
As you might have guessed,
it is London Fashion Week
Later today, this is gonna be a catwalk
Oh!
[Maya] From Burberry to McQueen,
London Fashion Week has been playing host
to the world's most celebrated designers
for over 40 years
With 250 shows crammed
into five frantic days,
it's one of the busiest weeks
of the year for a professional MUA
Let me introduce to you your guest judge,
who will also be your boss
for today's show,
Pablo Rodriguez
[upbeat electronic music plays]
Hi, everyone. Great to have you
working today on the show
[Maya] Over the last 20 years,
Pablo has created looks for everyone
from Vogue to Vivienne Westwood
and worked on Fashion Weeks
across the globe
Today, he's the key makeup artist
for world-renowned designer, Mark Fast,
whose bold looks have been worn
by A-listers around the world
[Pablo] Today, your work needs to be fast,
but the makeup looks
you produce need to be uniform
and up to the same standard
on every model
You'll need to complete
at least two looks each
But if they are not good enough,
I will pull your model
and get someone else to fix your makeup
The designer and my reputation
are on the line
So these looks need to be perfect
[gentle music playing]
[Val] Time is tight today, MUAs
So, speed, confidence,
and execution is key
The standout MUA from today
will get the opportunity
to assist Pablo on a future shoot
[all exclaim]
All right, let's get going
Best of luck to all of you
Off you go backstage
[all chuckle]
[Maya] The MUAs are joining
Pablo's backstage team
And they each need to get
two models ready to walk in the show
[bouncy music plays]
- Hello, team. [laughs]
- [Yong-chin] Hello
[Maya] Pablo has designed
a look for today's show
which the MUAs will need
to replicate exactly
[Pablo] Right. So let's get started
[Maya] The look begins
with a brightly-colored inner eye,
blending out to a black rounded edge
Make it really intense
in the inner corner here
Go halfway through,
and here we can blend it a little bit
So symmetry is really important with this
Some models are gonna have this color,
kind of like yellowy green
Some models are gonna have
this one, like a teal
Okay
[Maya] After laying down
mascara and lashes,
the MUAs must create a bold dark lip
[Pablo] So the idea with the lip is
that it's very intense in the center,
but then you blur the edges
to make it really soft
Take either a cotton bud or a round brush,
something to make all the edges softer
So it has to be symmetrical,
has to be precise,
but it's not a super sharp lip
Yeah, so that's the look
So we have a lot of work to do,
so let's crack on
[artists] Thank you
Every week, the industry assignment
have just got bigger
and bigger and more exciting
This one is really big. It's Fashion Week
Fashion Week is huge
And to win this one would be so great
- Hi, I'm Lisa
- [model] Hello
Kris. How you doing?
- Nice to meet you
- You too
Not only are our MUAs working
with an iconic key artist,
they are working at London Fashion Week
Hello!
This is the ultimate test,
because as that makeup
comes down the catwalk,
there is nowhere to hide
[Maya] Having studied
fashion design at university,
Yong-chin is in her element
Yeah, I really love this environment
This is, like, the career path
that I want to take
So, um, yeah. No, it's fun
So, MUAs, we have half an hour
Lisa and Nancé, you're doing
the teal eye with a lip
Yong-chin and Kris,
you're doing the green with a lip
- Crack on
- Okay
[Lisa chuckles]
[Maya] Having swapped books for brushes,
former teacher Lisa
is feeling the pressure
Working at this place
is scary, but it's fun
I've never had to do anything so quickly,
but with such precision
[Maya] Models at London Fashion Week
are in multiple shows a day
So time is tight
[Maya] How you getting on?
[Yong-chin] Yeah, good
I'm just slapping it on
- But in a controlled manner
- [Maya] Nice
This is probably the most high-pressure
environment we've been in so far
- How you feeling about that?
- Yeah, good
I just need to sort of prove myself today
and show that I actually do do this
[upbeat music playing]
[Yong-chin] I grew up in Glasgow
Lived there up until I was like 19, 20
And then I moved down to London for uni
I studied fashion design
I always did makeup
on the side of my uni work
My older sister was a model,
so doing it for her and her model friends
I look at a lot of fashion makeup
and I just think,
"Why can't I just wear that
on my face every day?"
I think it's always good
to show people something different
I want to be the next big thing in makeup
I just have to not get in my head
about it and just get it done, really
Well, best of luck
- Okay
- Show 'em what you're made of
- Yes. Thank you, Maya
- All right
I've had to work at this pace before,
but I just wasn't expecting it
to be 30 minutes
But it's fine, I can do this
Have you done
any fashion show work before?
No, I've never been
in this situation before, so it's scary
Powder brush
The white building up to neon
I literally wrote
step-by-step everything he said
So I'm just following that now
[Maya] As the catwalk
starts to take shape,
the pressure is building
for the MUAs to complete
two models each before showtime
[Pablo] MUAs, we only have 20 minutes
and you're still on the first girl,
so you really, really need to hurry up
[upbeat music playing]
That's a joke
It's been 15 minutes already?
That's crazy
[Maya] The MUAs need to work fast
while still meeting
Pablo's high standards
- How you doing, Nancé?
- I'm doing quite good
- Yeah?
- Mm-hmm
Watch the symmetry
[Nancé] I just wanna lay down
the colors first and then blend
[Pablo] Nancé needs to watch her symmetry
Like, one eye is really heavy
I don't know if it's not finished
or the symmetry is not there,
but let's see what happens
[Maya] Having ended up
in last week's Face Off,
Nancé's out to impress
[Nancé] I'm definitely the one to watch
I refer to myself as the underdog
When you see me,
you don't think I'm all that,
but she's all that. She is
I struggled to get my foot
through the door
for many, many, many years
I never knew anybody
that did makeup before
All the makeup artists
that I knew were all on TV, in books
Freelancing, for me, was a scary step,
just like this competition is scary,
but I'm doing it anyway
'cause I don't like to live in fear
- I think it's better now, symmetry-wise
- Yeah
[Maya] Throughout the competition,
Kris has been told to finesse his looks
So today, he's taking no chances
[Kris chuckles] Yeah, not a lot of time
Just trying to stick to the rules,
and just to keep concentrated
Slow and steady,
but not too slow. [laughs]
Oh, that's a good intense color
- [Kris] Yeah, nice and green
- Yeah. It looks good
- But you need to hurry up
- Yeah
- You need to crack on
- Okay
- We're a bit behind
- Perfect
[pulsing music plays]
[Maya] Pablo's keeping
a close eye on Nancé
Okay, this is going up too much
So, basically, it needs to go like this
- Okay. I need to bring it down
- Yeah. We do not have a lot of time
That's definitely
pretty fast-paced, isn't it, today?
Hey, hair and makeup teams, 15 minutes
Fifteen minutes until we need
the models, okay?
[Nancé sighs] Oh, Nancé
Amazing. If you finish this lip,
you can start with the second girl
- Oh, wow. Thank you
- Yeah
I want a second model
because it shows, like, Pablo
that I can do the makeup look
[tense music plays]
[Maya] While Yong-chin races ahead,
others have fallen behind
Pile on the mascara
Don't worry about the lashes
Do the skin and the lip
- Then we keep going
- Cool. Great
- So I'm gonna need her for hair soon
- Okay, okay
[Pablo] All that needs to be softened
- Is that wet?
- [Nancé] Yeah, that's wet
Okay, just use a clean one,
so you can really start, like, softening
That's gonna give you a really sharp edge
Should I do a dry one?
Yeah, just use a dry one
- [Val] I can see two girls with no makeup
- [Dominic] I know
- Are you still waiting for makeup?
- Yeah
You're still waiting...
- We need to get a move on
- Yep, yep, yep
- [Dominic] What you gotta do now?
- Lashes and that's it
- You gotta stick lashes on?
- No? Don't do lashes?
No, get... Yeah, get... get them on!
Get them on
[Lisa] This is terrifying
- [Val] Breathe, don't panic
- All right. [exhales]
- [Val] Get that lip on
- Okay, cool
- Put the brushes down. Move on to the lip
- [exhales]
- [Dominic] Think she's done?
- Done
Right. Get... Get over to Pablo
Then grab your other model, okay?
I might have to get my brushes
[sighs heavily]
[Lisa screams softly]
Um...
[Maya] Yong-chin is the first MUA
to get her second model in the chair
Oh, hiya. Nice to meet you. I'm Yong-chin
Yeah, I'm feeling good
I just gotta keep it going
Do this one faster
than I did my first one
How's it going?
- [Pablo] We're getting there
- Yeah
Yong-chin was the first one
to finish a girl
- Just started second one
- Okay
- So I'm impressed with that
- We like that. So how's Nancé getting on?
- She's not getting it
- No?
She's not getting it. It's patchy
The shape is still not there
And it's taking too long too
Why do we have so few brushes?
What the hell?
Can you look up for me?
Shall I just go rogue
and start doing my own thing?
Go flipping rogue, babes
You gotta get this makeup on
Yes, see? That is so much quicker
[instrumental hip-hop music playing]
[Maya] Lisa too has finished
her first model
She's great. You can start a second girl
Okay, thank you
Oh, my God. What is going on?
Okay, this eye is good. It's a lot softer
This one looks very sharp there
[Kris] Okay, so...
- Just make it really blurry
- Okay
- Hurry up and start the second girl
- Yeah, sure
Okay, we got this,
we got this, we got this
And Kris, how's he getting on now?
The brief was you had to do
at least two girls, so that's not good
Because he puts a lot of pressure
on the rest of the team as well
They have to do more
Yeah, intense. There's a lot going on
[tense music playing]
[Yong-chin] I just wanna get it on
and make sure that I get two models done
This is Lisa. So she's got
the eyes pretty much finished
Make sure the skin is okay
and the eyebrows are okay
- Cool
- Are we done?
- I think so
- [man] I think that looks great
Thank you so much
You've been such a dream
Yeah, I think I'm ready for...
Another girl? Right, do we have
another girl that needs makeup doing?
- [Kris] Need a hand with anything?
- Yes, you can clean up under the eye
- Get a cotton bud, clean up
- Yeah
- Do they not have any more models?
- No
Three minutes, guys
Three minutes before we call models
[bold music playing]
Right, let's just quickly powder you,
then we're done
Hi, guys. So sorry, but we need
to take you now. We need to get her
[Nancé] Let me take you to him
[Maya] With the show
moments from starting,
Nancé takes her first model for sign-off
Pablo, I fixed it. I did the blemish,
and I fixed this bit
Yeah, I'm just gonna sit her
in my chair for a minute, yeah
Ugh. I feel so sick
Oh, gosh
Did you do any mascara?
No, I haven't done mascara yet
[Nancé] Today was a lot
Just the fact that Pablo
had to take my model in his chair,
I don't think that's a good thing
So, yeah
I'm a bit heartbroken about that,
but what's done is done
[Maya] With the models runway ready,
it's showtime
[intense electronic music playing]
[Maya] Yong-chin,
was this the best day yet?
This is the best day. It was so much fun
[Kris] Yeah, it was good
I had my model out
I was ready to take a second,
but they'd all been done
So I just went, jumped over,
helping Yong-chin then
I really wanted to get
my second model in the chair
- [Lisa] Oh, my God. That was crazy
- [Maya] Fast
That was the most fast-paced,
intense thing I've ever done
[Maya] Yeah
I think you should
all be proud of yourselves
You worked under extreme pressure
today and smashed it, so...
- [all applaud]
- [Maya] All of the little claps
[Yong-chin] I think this
is my favorite industry challenge
so far in the competition
And yeah, hopefully,
I've done enough to win it
I really want to win this one
- [man] Well done!
- [cheering]
We got there by the skin of our teeth
Some people didn't quite bring it
True
And the fact that they all survived
and got through it,
I think they gotta be proud of them
I know I am
[upbeat pop music playing]
How is everybody today?
- Tired. [laughs]
- [Maya] Oh, slumpy
Well, there is actually
some exciting news
Your makeups are in Vogue Runway
- [all exclaim]
- Oh, my God
[Yong-chin] Oh, yeah. There she is
- Oh, yes
- Gorj
I can't believe it. How amazing
I never expected that. [laughs]
[Maya] It is a big deal
[pulsing music plays]
[Maya] The judges need
to decide which MUA smashed it,
winning the chance
to work with Pablo again
And who failed to impress,
landing themselves in the Face Off chairs
[Pablo] So this is Yong-chin's model
She worked very fast
She was the first one
to get a second model
Wow
[Dominic] It is really not easy
to watch a demonstration happen
and interpret
onto a completely different face
And the fact that Yong-chin's done it
straightaway is really impressive
This is the model that Lisa did
So she started a bit weak,
but then she kept on going
and she got there
She just faffed around
on that first model far too long
She didn't have the confidence
to just deliver the makeup
that she knows how to do
But in her defense,
this is her first-ever fashion show
[Pablo] So this is Kris's model
When I went to see
what he was doing the first time,
I was blown away
It was like, boom, color, intense
So in the beginning I thought,
"This is going to be the best one."
But he took so much time
that he couldn't do a second model
For his first fashion show,
I think Kris did a really good job
And Nancé, how did you find yesterday?
I just had one
of those terrible makeup day
And I'm, like, so disappointed in myself
Oh, no
So this is Nancé's model
This is after I finished it
The shape was pointing up,
so I told her to make it straight
- She took a wet cotton bud and cleaned it
- [both gasp]
- So that made it very sharp
- [Dominic exclaims]
It was a very hard graphic eye
The fact that she not only did
the wrong shape,
to then put a wet cotton bud on,
she should know that's not what you do
I'm so disappointed
I think we're all in agreement, don't you?
Absolutely
[Yong-chin and Nancé] Let's go
[Maya] If an MUA finds
their name on one of the red chairs,
they're headed
for the Face Off elimination
at the end of the day
Ta-da
[Maya] There's only one way for Kris
and Nancé to avoid the Face Off
By wowing the judges
enough to beat the seat
Kris and Nancé,
you are in the Face Off chairs,
which means you'll have 15 minutes
less for your creative brief today
Nancé,
yesterday, you struggled
with the eye shape
And at the end, I had to take
your model and finish her myself
And you only did one look
Kris, you started really strong,
and your color was good
But you were too slow,
and you only did one girl,
when you needed to do two
Yesterday, there was one MUA
that really impressed me
Yong-chin
I would like you to assist me
in a future editorial shoot
- Oh, my God. [laughs]
- [all applauding]
Thank you
- Yeah!
- Yes! Well done!
Thank you so much. [chuckles]
Yesterday, you created looks
for a show at London Fashion Week
Over the decades,
the runway has been a place
for inspirational, outrageous,
and rebellious looks
Today, we want you
to produce a look that tells us
about a moment of rebellion in your life
Show us something that goes
against the norm and breaks the rules
So are you ready, semifinalists?
- [all] Yes!
- Bring in the models!
[bold music playing]
- Hi, nice to meet you. I'm Yong-chin
- I'm Seth
Ooh, I like your hair, by the way
- That's sick
- It's new, yeah
- You're so tall
- I know, right? [laughs]
[Maya] Okay, MUAs
Kris and Nancé,
I'll let you know when you can start
The rest of you, well, the two of you
will have two and a half hours
Your time starts now
[suspenseful music playing]
[Maya] Today is the last chance
for the MUAs to impress
and secure their place in the final
♪ To-doo-doo-doo
To-doo-doo ♪
[laughs] What else can you do
when you're just waiting? Just...
- Just sing and dance
- Sing and dance, yeah
- Hello, hello, hello. You all right?
- Hi, hi, hi, Maya
What is this rebellion?
I'm rebelling against
the Western beauty standards,
because me, myself,
I don't fit into that mold
So when you live in an environment
like that, it's quite hard
So my look today is basically based
on Western beauty,
and why do we have to even follow
one version of beauty?
Yeah. Do you wanna give us
some little affirmations?
- Yeah, you do it this time
- I'll do it today. All right
I am incredible at what I do
I'm incredible at what I do
I'm able to work with speed and precision
I'm able to work with speed and precision
I'm a talented makeup artist
who deserves to be here
I'm a talented makeup artist
who deserves to be here
[both] And I will fight
for my place in the final
[both] 'Cause I'm a young legend
♪ Yeah ♪
♪ Yeah ♪
[both laugh]
Perfect. Love that. All right
[funky house music playing]
I'm so happy to be in a blue chair
I'm feeling really good today
My rebellion look is a feminist statement
It's about how women writers
in the past used to have to publish
under either a male alias or anonymously
It's that act of rebellion
of still being published
even when they weren't really supposed to
[humming melodically]
- Hello, Kris
- Hello
- Hello
- Hello, hi
This is a very big look today, isn't it?
- Yeah, wouldn't be like me. [laughs]
- Yeah. Nothing like your usual
- Yeah
- Do you wanna tell me what it is?
My stage of rebellion
is kinda based around
my early days when I kind of started
to realize my sexuality
Mm-hmm
I come from
a very traditional Irish background,
you know, Catholic upbringing
We were massively Catholic growing up
Like, went to mass every single Sunday
We'd go on, like, yearly pilgrimages
We'd do Lent every year
We'd fast on Fridays
Like, massively, massively religious
I remember, like,
when I was like 12 or 13,
I would pray
every single night to not be gay
Because I was just like,
"This is just trouble waiting to happen."
And then as I grew older,
grew into myself and got more okay
with it and more confident,
then it became a stage
of like, "Okay, I don't necessarily feel
at home in this religion
or this institution anymore,
so I want to start... pushing back."
I can hands-down say that I'm
the happiest I've ever been in my life
And being in this competition now,
it... it feels
like it's the perfect time to be here
So it's all inspired by stained glass,
the colors of the pride flag,
and it's just meant to show
the conflict but also the vibrancy
and the beauty of me
just emerging from it all
- Breaking free
- Exactly. Shattering the glass
- Shatter that glass
- Yeah
[Maya] Yong-chin's look is based on
the final collection of Alexander McQueen,
one of her rebellious idols
[Yong-chin] When I was like ten years old,
I would watch his shows
And I was just so inspired
by, like, how much of a visionary he was
and he would just do whatever he wanted
So, um, I've got
a really big paint to do today
I'm doing down to the bust
and on the face
So there's a lot to do,
but I know I can do it in the time
Kris, Nancé, you can start
Fifteen minutes are over
Whoo!
[intriguing music playing]
[Pablo] What material is that?
Is that latex?
- [Dominic] Is it tissue?
- I think... No, it's baking paper
You obviously don't do much baking
'cause that is too thin for baking paper
[Lisa] I'm actually gonna be adding
tissue paper to the face
and aging it to look like parchment
Ah, there's no glue in here. Oh, my gosh
[Maya] Throughout the competition,
Kris has gained a reputation
for making his own prosthetics
And today is no exception
Oh
What? What? Where did that come from?
Lift it higher
- Don't cover the corner of the eye
- Oh, no. That's still too low
Yeah. And it's so close to the eye
[Dominic] Kris makes his own prosthetics
The problem with that
is that it's not universal,
and it's not necessarily
gonna fit every model
Okay, I'm just gonna lift it up
for a second. Look up
Oh, and we're off
Two secs
[intriguing music plays]
[Maya] Nancé is also experimenting
with prosthetics
to try and make it into the final
Because I'm going for a look
that's gonna be quite distorted,
I want the facial features
to look weird and unnatural
But we'll see how it works out
Nancé's done
some pretty rebellious makeup
Absolutely. I'm very excited to see
what Nancé's gonna bring to the table
[Nancé] I've had
many moments of rebellion
When I used to work in retail,
there was a time when I showed up
to work with my hair in its natural state
I was told my hair
was unprofessional and unkempt
And I shouldn't come to work,
like, looking like that again
So every time my hair is in braids
or especially when it's
in a natural state,
I'm making a statement
[Yong-chin] So this will dry
and then split and crack
Thirty minutes gone
Two hours to go
[Yong-chin] Oh, my God. Maya
[Maya] How're you gonna get
these words onto the face?
- I'm gonna write them all with a pen
- Wow, okay
Even harder, though,
'cause of all the lumps and crevices
[Lisa] I feel it'll flow
with the face more
if I write it onto the face
That just seems really hard to me
[Nancé] Okay, okay, okay, okay
Oh, gosh. So annoying. So annoying!
- Hey
- [Yong-chin] Heya
What is this?
You're packing on a lot of mud
Yes, my look is, like, inspired
by, like, Alexander McQueen's
final collection
How come McQueen was such an idol to you?
I used to literally watch
his shows from when I was, like, ten
So watching his shows
from a really young age
like literally made me
want to study design
He grew up in a really normal household
Like, working class
Were you
from a working-class background also?
Yeah, I was. I think
it's always, like, really inspiring
when you have someone
come from a similar background as you
But it's quite complicated
You've gone for a lot
Yeah, but it's the semifinals,
so you have to go for a lot, right?
- Go big or go home
- Exactly
[moody music playing]
So just pull it, yeah
[Maya] Under pressure,
Kris is falling behind
[Val] Look at the state
of his poor model's eyes
[Dominic] Yeah
He looks so unhappy. [laughs]
[Maya] Oh, my God
- [Kris snorts]
- Massive horns
The madness continues
How do you feel?
Uh, not bad
[Maya and Kris laugh]
First time for sure
First time horning
"It's my first horn."
The model is questioning
his life choices right now
[Val and Dominic laugh]
[Kris chuckles] Instant face-lift
[suspenseful music plays]
Not too light
I'm just gonna mix them
Nancé has a long way to go
to get a finished look
This is ridiculous
It's looking so sick
[Pablo] Oh, I know what she's doing now
You know the last McQueen show?
- The Plato's Atlantis
- Oh, yes
The clothes had
all the kind of, like, folding
- So, that is like a fabric that is folded
- [Dominic] Oh!
Yes
[Pablo] If you get it right,
it's very clever
If you get it wrong,
it can really be a cliché
Yeah
One hour gone
Oh, my God
An hour and a half to go
[moody electronic music plays]
[hair dryer whirring]
- We're at the salon
- [laughing]
[Val] What is Kris doing?
[Dominic] It's cotton wool and latex
So they used cotton wool
to bulk out the shape,
and then go over the top with latex,
but it... it's very mucky
[Pablo] It's taking him
a long time to do this
I think he's bitten off
more than he can chew
[Kris] I'm trying to start on the painting
in between bits drying
Try to keep conscious of the time
'Cause I don't wanna
shoot myself in the foot
Okay
[cheerful soul music playing]
What's the first rebellious thing you did?
I used to steal apples
- Did you?
- Yeah. I had an anorak
We would go and, you know,
pinch apples from an orchard
- Filled the whole anorak
- Into the lining
So we'd come out, I could hardly walk
- [laughing]
- I had so many lumps and bumps
Yeah, and then we'd get sick
eating all the apples
'Cause they were cooking apples
- [all laugh]
- True, true. It's true
Scary
One hour left
Final push
Mm!
This bit's all squishy
[Maya] Once Lisa begins writing
on her carefully-applied tissue paper,
with no time to restart,
any mistakes are there for good
[groovy electronic music plays]
Still doing okay there?
[Nancé] I'm just laying down
the baby hairs onto the face
The baby hairs represent when Black women
didn't have, like, hair products
that they could use for their hair
So, they used to play
around with their hair,
and this is where the whole idea
of baby hairs came from
Oh, I forgot about my feather. [chuckles]
Hopefully, she's still sticky
[suspenseful music playing]
- Hey, Lisa
- Hi
So what are you writing?
So there's the names of the women
that had the pen name
And on some of them,
I've done their male pen name,
crossed it out,
and then put their real name
Okay. Keep going
Thank you
No
- How is it going?
- Good
- Trying to work the color on there
- Okay
On the stained glass,
I can see there's all black lines,
but you're doing them in white
I'm doing them white
just currently just to map it out
So, you're going to put
the black on top of the white?
Yeah
- Okay
- Bad idea?
- [chuckles]
- Yeah, keep going
Thanks
Dom, when you see what Kris is doing,
you're going to freak out
What? Why?
- He's mapping all the lines with white
- Yeah
But then he's gonna
paint them black on top
What? Why would you do that?
It's gonna mix and it's gonna get gray
It's just gonna look so wrong
Thirty minutes left
Final 30
[exhales]
[electronic music playing]
[Yong-chin] Think I've been
really bold with my use of color
and made sure that there's a lot of depth
[Dominic] I do like this
That is such a strong
graphic makeup on the eyes,
the prosthetic is getting lost
So was that a waste of time?
[Val] I mean, it's a big makeup
It's just too rough and ready
Oh, my God. I have so much left to do
When I think of rebellion,
I think of anarchy
This is very pretty. It's very delicate
Does it fit the brief?
[speaking indistinctly]
Ten minutes to go now
Final ten
[tense music playing]
Oh, God
Oh, forget it
I forgot what I was about to do
I wanna create showstopping pieces
I try to create work that would excite me
[Lisa] I haven't got too long left
So I'm just making sure
everything's perfect,
then I can sort of carry on
the writing until the end
[Nancé] I'm just stressing,
but I'm almost finished
Trying to think whether there's
anything else that I'm forgetting to do
One minute left
The final minute
[cheerful ethereal music playing]
Oh, mascara! [pops lip]
[Kris] Just trying to keep
the gas on the pedal now
Brushes down, please
Oh, well. [chuckles]
Please take your models
next door to be photographed
Let's go
[percussive music playing]
Oh, it's beyond rough around the edges
It was, like, dug-out-of-the-ground rough
It was definitely
the roughest work I've ever done
[Lisa] I think she looks beautiful
I really hope the judges do as well
It would mean a lot to me for the judges
to give me good feedback on this look
[Nancé] I hope
I've done enough to beat the seat,
but I won't know until I hear
what the judges have to say
So I'm just waiting for that time to come
Yong-chin
[suspenseful music playing]
My rebellion look is inspired
by Alexander McQueen,
in particular, his final collection
[Dominic] This is a big, big makeup
in two and a half hours
And it is so impressive
- I love it
- Thank you
I really see that final collection
within this makeup
The colors, the shapes,
that little flick of orange
There is something very moth-like,
very butterfly-like within that
And I just think it's really stunning
[Pablo] I do really like that you did,
that's very clever,
is that you didn't touch the model's hair,
but you incorporated that into the look
You used the blond part into the design
that you created on the face
and even the roots of the model
into the black lace here,
so that blends really well
It's very precise, very well-executed
It looks very professional
Thank you
You know what?
I don't have to critique this at all
It is a ding-dong from me
[sweeping music plays]
[all applaud]
- So, thank you, thank you. It was amazing
- [Yong-chin] Thank you
Thanks
Kris, would you like to step forward?
[gentle guitar music playing]
So this may come as a surprise
to everyone in the room
- But I am a gay man
- [all chuckle]
And my rebellion look centers
around when my religious upbringing
came into conflict with my sexuality
[Val] This is a huge makeup
And you always do a big makeup
Which is great
But you do make it hard for yourself
[Pablo] In terms of execution, yes,
the lines needed
to be blacker, straighter,
but the story is there
The one thing I'm gonna say...
[chuckles] is what?
- "Finesse."
- [Dominic] Finesse
It's like the story of your Glow Up life
You spent so long putting prosthetics on
that you are cutting your painting time
from two hours, 15 minutes to an hour
This is like a five, six-hour job
And you're trying to do it
in two hours, 15 minutes
- I mean, that's a big task
- Mm
- But well done. Thank you
- Thank you
[all applaud]
Nancé, would you like
to step forward, please?
[Nancé] For my look today, I'm rebelling
against Westernized standards of beauty
As a person of color,
I feel like I'm a walking representation
of what rebellion is
So I wanted to go against
what society deems beautiful
Thank you so much for sharing it with us
I appreciate that it's something
very personal and intimate
Overall, I really like what you did
It's very creative
The eye makeup, very symmetrical,
very precise, balance
But I wish you used that time
that you spent on the hair
to make those colors pop even more
Like that orange, for example,
kind of gets lost
I want orange if it's going to be there
I love the go-getter that is Nancé
I can see your story
I see the rebellion. I love it
I just think
you could've distorted it a bit more
You know, like, get that color
and just pack it on, pack it on
I love the punk anarchy,
but I think you could've gone bigger
Okay
[Dominic] Nancé, I... I love this
The placement of the shapes
that change and distort the face,
almost like a sound coming off it,
it's really just so interesting
I have to say that I think
you wasted time with the prosthetics
I don't think they're necessary
I think you could've created
more distortion with makeup
Okay
But thing is,
that I get so excited, is you
You have such a beautiful way
of approaching makeup
Your thought processes
are very unique to you
I just think it's great
- It gets me really excited about makeup
- Thank you
Well done Thank you
[all applaud]
Lisa, please step forward
[gentle melancholic music plays]
I wanted to do a look
inspired by female writers from history
who wrote with a male alias
or anonymously in order to be published,
at a time where women's voices
were not heard or valued
[Pablo] I love this story
My only criticism is
that there is three main parts
in this makeup
One of them is like a book,
so there's like paper and handwriting
The other half,
you have the ink splotches
And then you got the quill here
It's almost like you are telling
the same story three times
Saying that,
the three parts are incredible
You are so talented
and you create a... quite a literal story
My worry is that,
think about walking around an art gallery
The art that is most interesting
is the ones you don't
necessarily understand straightaway
With this, I look at it, I know exactly
what it says straightaway
So would I just walk straight past it?
Start finding that balance
of what is literal
and what is slightly abstract
to give the viewer a moment to stop
and appreciate and take it all in,
because your work is worthy
of being taken all in
The technicalities
of your artistry is sublime
It is second to none
And I would really hate for people
to miss out on the nuances and the detail,
because they clocked it,
they understood it, and they walked on
- Well done. I love it
- Thank you
[Val] This is a work of art
from every perspective
The drawing of the quill,
the 3D effect of the shadow on the skin
We could've photographed your work
at any moment through the process,
because it looked so beautiful
It has to be a ding-dong from me
It has to be
It is just so gobsmackingly gorgeous!
- [chuckles]
- [all applaud]
Oh, my God
So, MUAs, if you could please go next door
whilst myself, Dom, and Pablo
decide who is going
into the Face Off elimination
[suspenseful music playing]
[Kris] I was disappointed with that look
because I know that's not my standard
I knew from the minute that I finished it
that it wasn't my best work
[Nancé] Every aspect of the face
should've been distorted,
and I should've
really packed the color on
So I understand the critiques
Let's look at Nancé
[Pablo] I wanted to see more
distortion, deconstruction,
if that's where she was going
That look in, okay, 15 minutes more,
but 15 minutes more,
and Nancé would not create
the same volume of makeup
that Yong-chin did
We know that Nancé
is a great makeup artist
We know she can do clever makeup
But is this makeup enough
to get Nancé out of that seat?
Let's talk about the other MUA
that started today in the Face Off chair,
and that was Kris
[Pablo] The idea is there
The quality should be
at a much higher level
The lack of finesse leaves his makeup
looking very slapdash, very rushed
- And that's because he is
- [Pablo] Mm-hmm
Why won't he just do something simple?
I do also wanna talk about Lisa
We cannot deny
that Lisa is exceptionally talented,
but I feel like it's just a bit bland
Like, where's the interest?
Where's the point of which
you wanna stop and really take it all in?
There's no layers. It's one-dimensional
That's exactly the point
It's one-dimensional
That's what is losing my interest
See, I can't agree with you guys at all
This is an incredible makeup
The 3D nib on the pen,
the shadow, the beauty of it all
You are the semifinalistas
And, yeah, I'm really proud of you all
- Should we have a group hug?
- [artists] Yeah
Let's do that. That's nice
- [Maya] Well done, everybody
- [Kris] Good job, girls
- [Maya] Well done
- [Nancé] Well done, guys
Today, we've seen
some incredible makeup, right?
So that makes our decision very hard
[tense music playing]
- [Maya] Hello, judges
- Hello
- [Maya] Have you made your decision?
- We certainly have
So, guys, you've all delivered
some incredible makeups
So you should all feel
really proud of yourselves
to get this far to the semifinal
in this competition
Kris, Nancé,
you both started today
in the Face Off chairs,
but did you do enough to beat the seat?
Kris, we asked for something
that went against the norm
and broke all the rules,
and your look certainly did that
However, it wasn't finished,
and it certainly wasn't up
to the standard we were looking for
So for that reason,
you will be the first MUA
going into the Face Off elimination
Nancé,
you told a very important story,
and you told it beautifully
But we would've liked your makeup
to be bigger and bolder
So for that reason and that reason alone,
you'll be the second MUA
going into the Face Off elimination
- Thank you, judges
- Thank you
All right. Nancé, Kris,
please say your goodbyes
as only one of you will be returning
[Nancé] It's not my time to go
I'm not going anywhere
I've already tunnel-visioned myself
in the final and it's gonna happen
I really want to get through to the final
because I really don't want that to be
the look that I go out on
in this competition, you know?
I am so much better than that
- Okay, let's do this
- [Kris] Okay
- [Maya] Ready?
- [Nancé] Mm-hmm
[Maya] To level the playing field,
the MUAs will face off
over a set of identical twins
This week, you worked
at a fast-paced fashion show
So for today's Face Off,
we want you to create
a high-fashion makeup
We want you to create a black oval eye
For this high-fashion
graphic black oval eye,
load up the top and bottom water line
with loads of black eye pencil,
working it into the root of the lash
with a short, stumpy makeup brush
Using the round edge
of a large eyeshadow brush
which is saturated in gel liner,
press it against
the outside edge of the eyelid
and sweep down
into the inner corner of the eye
Repeat this process
starting from the inner corner,
and connect these two black marks
and fill it in with black gel liner
Lightly blend some black eyeshadow
around the black oval shape
to soften the edge
And what you'll be left with
is a catwalk-ready graphic black oval eye
We want you to create
a big, bold, black eye
with soft edges, with no fallout,
incorporating the upper and lower lid
Make it a real showstopper
Your look must be symmetrical
You'll have 15 minutes
to complete your look
Best of luck to both of you
Your time starts now
[suspenseful music playing]
Five minutes gone
Ten minutes left
Oh, my days. This is neck and neck
We asked for a big, bold, black eye,
and they have both given us that
At this stage of the competition,
they are both confident
It was great to see Nancé doing her prep
She laid down powder under the eye,
and what that will do
is that will collect all the fallout
And she'll be able
to just sweep it away. Genius
[Dominic] Kris went in
with a fluffy brush,
with just the pencil
to brush out that line
But then he changed it for a cotton bud,
which is not gonna give you a blend,
it's gonna push and smudge
which is not the soft edge
we're gonna want
- Let's see
- Come on, then
- Let's look
- It's all to play for
Two minutes left
[suspenseful percussive music playing]
One minute left now
Final minute
Ten, nine, eight, seven,
six, five, four,
three, two, one
Brushes down, please
[gentle music playing]
[Val] Conflab?
[Dominic sighs heavily]
- I think so
- Let's go
That is so close
Val, what we gonna do?
Well, we've just gotta break it down
I mean, they've both done really well
[Dominic] They're both different shapes,
but they both fit the model
Now, I'm going to say
that neither of them
have nailed the symmetry. I...
- It's not far off though
- It's not far off
- [Val] The one thing that I noticed...
- Mm?
Fallout
I saw that too
[Val] On one eye on one model
That MUA took the powder off too soon
- Then went back in...
- Back in
...with more black shadow
Once that black eyeshadow
is on that skin, you can't move it
It's going to stick,
and it's gonna go gray and ashy
And that's what's happened
They've both delivered
incredible makeups over the weeks,
and for it to come down
to one thing, fallout...
- Yeah
- Oh, it's so tight
Who would have thought?
[tense music plays]
[Maya] Have you made a decision?
[both] We have
[sighs]
[percussive music playing]
New York, Milan, Paris, London
This week, the MUAs have to
work it, work it, work it, baby
'Cause the semifinals
is all about high fashion
Sweetie. Darling. Muah, muah
[upbeat music plays]
[Maya] There are now just four MUAs
left in the competition
Morning, MUAs
[all] Morning
Welcome to the semifinal!
[all cheer and laugh]
I am so proud of you
and so excited for today's assignment
As you might have guessed,
it is London Fashion Week
Later today, this is gonna be a catwalk
Oh!
[Maya] From Burberry to McQueen,
London Fashion Week has been playing host
to the world's most celebrated designers
for over 40 years
With 250 shows crammed
into five frantic days,
it's one of the busiest weeks
of the year for a professional MUA
Let me introduce to you your guest judge,
who will also be your boss
for today's show,
Pablo Rodriguez
[upbeat electronic music plays]
Hi, everyone. Great to have you
working today on the show
[Maya] Over the last 20 years,
Pablo has created looks for everyone
from Vogue to Vivienne Westwood
and worked on Fashion Weeks
across the globe
Today, he's the key makeup artist
for world-renowned designer, Mark Fast,
whose bold looks have been worn
by A-listers around the world
[Pablo] Today, your work needs to be fast,
but the makeup looks
you produce need to be uniform
and up to the same standard
on every model
You'll need to complete
at least two looks each
But if they are not good enough,
I will pull your model
and get someone else to fix your makeup
The designer and my reputation
are on the line
So these looks need to be perfect
[gentle music playing]
[Val] Time is tight today, MUAs
So, speed, confidence,
and execution is key
The standout MUA from today
will get the opportunity
to assist Pablo on a future shoot
[all exclaim]
All right, let's get going
Best of luck to all of you
Off you go backstage
[all chuckle]
[Maya] The MUAs are joining
Pablo's backstage team
And they each need to get
two models ready to walk in the show
[bouncy music plays]
- Hello, team. [laughs]
- [Yong-chin] Hello
[Maya] Pablo has designed
a look for today's show
which the MUAs will need
to replicate exactly
[Pablo] Right. So let's get started
[Maya] The look begins
with a brightly-colored inner eye,
blending out to a black rounded edge
Make it really intense
in the inner corner here
Go halfway through,
and here we can blend it a little bit
So symmetry is really important with this
Some models are gonna have this color,
kind of like yellowy green
Some models are gonna have
this one, like a teal
Okay
[Maya] After laying down
mascara and lashes,
the MUAs must create a bold dark lip
[Pablo] So the idea with the lip is
that it's very intense in the center,
but then you blur the edges
to make it really soft
Take either a cotton bud or a round brush,
something to make all the edges softer
So it has to be symmetrical,
has to be precise,
but it's not a super sharp lip
Yeah, so that's the look
So we have a lot of work to do,
so let's crack on
[artists] Thank you
Every week, the industry assignment
have just got bigger
and bigger and more exciting
This one is really big. It's Fashion Week
Fashion Week is huge
And to win this one would be so great
- Hi, I'm Lisa
- [model] Hello
Kris. How you doing?
- Nice to meet you
- You too
Not only are our MUAs working
with an iconic key artist,
they are working at London Fashion Week
Hello!
This is the ultimate test,
because as that makeup
comes down the catwalk,
there is nowhere to hide
[Maya] Having studied
fashion design at university,
Yong-chin is in her element
Yeah, I really love this environment
This is, like, the career path
that I want to take
So, um, yeah. No, it's fun
So, MUAs, we have half an hour
Lisa and Nancé, you're doing
the teal eye with a lip
Yong-chin and Kris,
you're doing the green with a lip
- Crack on
- Okay
[Lisa chuckles]
[Maya] Having swapped books for brushes,
former teacher Lisa
is feeling the pressure
Working at this place
is scary, but it's fun
I've never had to do anything so quickly,
but with such precision
[Maya] Models at London Fashion Week
are in multiple shows a day
So time is tight
[Maya] How you getting on?
[Yong-chin] Yeah, good
I'm just slapping it on
- But in a controlled manner
- [Maya] Nice
This is probably the most high-pressure
environment we've been in so far
- How you feeling about that?
- Yeah, good
I just need to sort of prove myself today
and show that I actually do do this
[upbeat music playing]
[Yong-chin] I grew up in Glasgow
Lived there up until I was like 19, 20
And then I moved down to London for uni
I studied fashion design
I always did makeup
on the side of my uni work
My older sister was a model,
so doing it for her and her model friends
I look at a lot of fashion makeup
and I just think,
"Why can't I just wear that
on my face every day?"
I think it's always good
to show people something different
I want to be the next big thing in makeup
I just have to not get in my head
about it and just get it done, really
Well, best of luck
- Okay
- Show 'em what you're made of
- Yes. Thank you, Maya
- All right
I've had to work at this pace before,
but I just wasn't expecting it
to be 30 minutes
But it's fine, I can do this
Have you done
any fashion show work before?
No, I've never been
in this situation before, so it's scary
Powder brush
The white building up to neon
I literally wrote
step-by-step everything he said
So I'm just following that now
[Maya] As the catwalk
starts to take shape,
the pressure is building
for the MUAs to complete
two models each before showtime
[Pablo] MUAs, we only have 20 minutes
and you're still on the first girl,
so you really, really need to hurry up
[upbeat music playing]
That's a joke
It's been 15 minutes already?
That's crazy
[Maya] The MUAs need to work fast
while still meeting
Pablo's high standards
- How you doing, Nancé?
- I'm doing quite good
- Yeah?
- Mm-hmm
Watch the symmetry
[Nancé] I just wanna lay down
the colors first and then blend
[Pablo] Nancé needs to watch her symmetry
Like, one eye is really heavy
I don't know if it's not finished
or the symmetry is not there,
but let's see what happens
[Maya] Having ended up
in last week's Face Off,
Nancé's out to impress
[Nancé] I'm definitely the one to watch
I refer to myself as the underdog
When you see me,
you don't think I'm all that,
but she's all that. She is
I struggled to get my foot
through the door
for many, many, many years
I never knew anybody
that did makeup before
All the makeup artists
that I knew were all on TV, in books
Freelancing, for me, was a scary step,
just like this competition is scary,
but I'm doing it anyway
'cause I don't like to live in fear
- I think it's better now, symmetry-wise
- Yeah
[Maya] Throughout the competition,
Kris has been told to finesse his looks
So today, he's taking no chances
[Kris chuckles] Yeah, not a lot of time
Just trying to stick to the rules,
and just to keep concentrated
Slow and steady,
but not too slow. [laughs]
Oh, that's a good intense color
- [Kris] Yeah, nice and green
- Yeah. It looks good
- But you need to hurry up
- Yeah
- You need to crack on
- Okay
- We're a bit behind
- Perfect
[pulsing music plays]
[Maya] Pablo's keeping
a close eye on Nancé
Okay, this is going up too much
So, basically, it needs to go like this
- Okay. I need to bring it down
- Yeah. We do not have a lot of time
That's definitely
pretty fast-paced, isn't it, today?
Hey, hair and makeup teams, 15 minutes
Fifteen minutes until we need
the models, okay?
[Nancé sighs] Oh, Nancé
Amazing. If you finish this lip,
you can start with the second girl
- Oh, wow. Thank you
- Yeah
I want a second model
because it shows, like, Pablo
that I can do the makeup look
[tense music plays]
[Maya] While Yong-chin races ahead,
others have fallen behind
Pile on the mascara
Don't worry about the lashes
Do the skin and the lip
- Then we keep going
- Cool. Great
- So I'm gonna need her for hair soon
- Okay, okay
[Pablo] All that needs to be softened
- Is that wet?
- [Nancé] Yeah, that's wet
Okay, just use a clean one,
so you can really start, like, softening
That's gonna give you a really sharp edge
Should I do a dry one?
Yeah, just use a dry one
- [Val] I can see two girls with no makeup
- [Dominic] I know
- Are you still waiting for makeup?
- Yeah
You're still waiting...
- We need to get a move on
- Yep, yep, yep
- [Dominic] What you gotta do now?
- Lashes and that's it
- You gotta stick lashes on?
- No? Don't do lashes?
No, get... Yeah, get... get them on!
Get them on
[Lisa] This is terrifying
- [Val] Breathe, don't panic
- All right. [exhales]
- [Val] Get that lip on
- Okay, cool
- Put the brushes down. Move on to the lip
- [exhales]
- [Dominic] Think she's done?
- Done
Right. Get... Get over to Pablo
Then grab your other model, okay?
I might have to get my brushes
[sighs heavily]
[Lisa screams softly]
Um...
[Maya] Yong-chin is the first MUA
to get her second model in the chair
Oh, hiya. Nice to meet you. I'm Yong-chin
Yeah, I'm feeling good
I just gotta keep it going
Do this one faster
than I did my first one
How's it going?
- [Pablo] We're getting there
- Yeah
Yong-chin was the first one
to finish a girl
- Just started second one
- Okay
- So I'm impressed with that
- We like that. So how's Nancé getting on?
- She's not getting it
- No?
She's not getting it. It's patchy
The shape is still not there
And it's taking too long too
Why do we have so few brushes?
What the hell?
Can you look up for me?
Shall I just go rogue
and start doing my own thing?
Go flipping rogue, babes
You gotta get this makeup on
Yes, see? That is so much quicker
[instrumental hip-hop music playing]
[Maya] Lisa too has finished
her first model
She's great. You can start a second girl
Okay, thank you
Oh, my God. What is going on?
Okay, this eye is good. It's a lot softer
This one looks very sharp there
[Kris] Okay, so...
- Just make it really blurry
- Okay
- Hurry up and start the second girl
- Yeah, sure
Okay, we got this,
we got this, we got this
And Kris, how's he getting on now?
The brief was you had to do
at least two girls, so that's not good
Because he puts a lot of pressure
on the rest of the team as well
They have to do more
Yeah, intense. There's a lot going on
[tense music playing]
[Yong-chin] I just wanna get it on
and make sure that I get two models done
This is Lisa. So she's got
the eyes pretty much finished
Make sure the skin is okay
and the eyebrows are okay
- Cool
- Are we done?
- I think so
- [man] I think that looks great
Thank you so much
You've been such a dream
Yeah, I think I'm ready for...
Another girl? Right, do we have
another girl that needs makeup doing?
- [Kris] Need a hand with anything?
- Yes, you can clean up under the eye
- Get a cotton bud, clean up
- Yeah
- Do they not have any more models?
- No
Three minutes, guys
Three minutes before we call models
[bold music playing]
Right, let's just quickly powder you,
then we're done
Hi, guys. So sorry, but we need
to take you now. We need to get her
[Nancé] Let me take you to him
[Maya] With the show
moments from starting,
Nancé takes her first model for sign-off
Pablo, I fixed it. I did the blemish,
and I fixed this bit
Yeah, I'm just gonna sit her
in my chair for a minute, yeah
Ugh. I feel so sick
Oh, gosh
Did you do any mascara?
No, I haven't done mascara yet
[Nancé] Today was a lot
Just the fact that Pablo
had to take my model in his chair,
I don't think that's a good thing
So, yeah
I'm a bit heartbroken about that,
but what's done is done
[Maya] With the models runway ready,
it's showtime
[intense electronic music playing]
[Maya] Yong-chin,
was this the best day yet?
This is the best day. It was so much fun
[Kris] Yeah, it was good
I had my model out
I was ready to take a second,
but they'd all been done
So I just went, jumped over,
helping Yong-chin then
I really wanted to get
my second model in the chair
- [Lisa] Oh, my God. That was crazy
- [Maya] Fast
That was the most fast-paced,
intense thing I've ever done
[Maya] Yeah
I think you should
all be proud of yourselves
You worked under extreme pressure
today and smashed it, so...
- [all applaud]
- [Maya] All of the little claps
[Yong-chin] I think this
is my favorite industry challenge
so far in the competition
And yeah, hopefully,
I've done enough to win it
I really want to win this one
- [man] Well done!
- [cheering]
We got there by the skin of our teeth
Some people didn't quite bring it
True
And the fact that they all survived
and got through it,
I think they gotta be proud of them
I know I am
[upbeat pop music playing]
How is everybody today?
- Tired. [laughs]
- [Maya] Oh, slumpy
Well, there is actually
some exciting news
Your makeups are in Vogue Runway
- [all exclaim]
- Oh, my God
[Yong-chin] Oh, yeah. There she is
- Oh, yes
- Gorj
I can't believe it. How amazing
I never expected that. [laughs]
[Maya] It is a big deal
[pulsing music plays]
[Maya] The judges need
to decide which MUA smashed it,
winning the chance
to work with Pablo again
And who failed to impress,
landing themselves in the Face Off chairs
[Pablo] So this is Yong-chin's model
She worked very fast
She was the first one
to get a second model
Wow
[Dominic] It is really not easy
to watch a demonstration happen
and interpret
onto a completely different face
And the fact that Yong-chin's done it
straightaway is really impressive
This is the model that Lisa did
So she started a bit weak,
but then she kept on going
and she got there
She just faffed around
on that first model far too long
She didn't have the confidence
to just deliver the makeup
that she knows how to do
But in her defense,
this is her first-ever fashion show
[Pablo] So this is Kris's model
When I went to see
what he was doing the first time,
I was blown away
It was like, boom, color, intense
So in the beginning I thought,
"This is going to be the best one."
But he took so much time
that he couldn't do a second model
For his first fashion show,
I think Kris did a really good job
And Nancé, how did you find yesterday?
I just had one
of those terrible makeup day
And I'm, like, so disappointed in myself
Oh, no
So this is Nancé's model
This is after I finished it
The shape was pointing up,
so I told her to make it straight
- She took a wet cotton bud and cleaned it
- [both gasp]
- So that made it very sharp
- [Dominic exclaims]
It was a very hard graphic eye
The fact that she not only did
the wrong shape,
to then put a wet cotton bud on,
she should know that's not what you do
I'm so disappointed
I think we're all in agreement, don't you?
Absolutely
[Yong-chin and Nancé] Let's go
[Maya] If an MUA finds
their name on one of the red chairs,
they're headed
for the Face Off elimination
at the end of the day
Ta-da
[Maya] There's only one way for Kris
and Nancé to avoid the Face Off
By wowing the judges
enough to beat the seat
Kris and Nancé,
you are in the Face Off chairs,
which means you'll have 15 minutes
less for your creative brief today
Nancé,
yesterday, you struggled
with the eye shape
And at the end, I had to take
your model and finish her myself
And you only did one look
Kris, you started really strong,
and your color was good
But you were too slow,
and you only did one girl,
when you needed to do two
Yesterday, there was one MUA
that really impressed me
Yong-chin
I would like you to assist me
in a future editorial shoot
- Oh, my God. [laughs]
- [all applauding]
Thank you
- Yeah!
- Yes! Well done!
Thank you so much. [chuckles]
Yesterday, you created looks
for a show at London Fashion Week
Over the decades,
the runway has been a place
for inspirational, outrageous,
and rebellious looks
Today, we want you
to produce a look that tells us
about a moment of rebellion in your life
Show us something that goes
against the norm and breaks the rules
So are you ready, semifinalists?
- [all] Yes!
- Bring in the models!
[bold music playing]
- Hi, nice to meet you. I'm Yong-chin
- I'm Seth
Ooh, I like your hair, by the way
- That's sick
- It's new, yeah
- You're so tall
- I know, right? [laughs]
[Maya] Okay, MUAs
Kris and Nancé,
I'll let you know when you can start
The rest of you, well, the two of you
will have two and a half hours
Your time starts now
[suspenseful music playing]
[Maya] Today is the last chance
for the MUAs to impress
and secure their place in the final
♪ To-doo-doo-doo
To-doo-doo ♪
[laughs] What else can you do
when you're just waiting? Just...
- Just sing and dance
- Sing and dance, yeah
- Hello, hello, hello. You all right?
- Hi, hi, hi, Maya
What is this rebellion?
I'm rebelling against
the Western beauty standards,
because me, myself,
I don't fit into that mold
So when you live in an environment
like that, it's quite hard
So my look today is basically based
on Western beauty,
and why do we have to even follow
one version of beauty?
Yeah. Do you wanna give us
some little affirmations?
- Yeah, you do it this time
- I'll do it today. All right
I am incredible at what I do
I'm incredible at what I do
I'm able to work with speed and precision
I'm able to work with speed and precision
I'm a talented makeup artist
who deserves to be here
I'm a talented makeup artist
who deserves to be here
[both] And I will fight
for my place in the final
[both] 'Cause I'm a young legend
♪ Yeah ♪
♪ Yeah ♪
[both laugh]
Perfect. Love that. All right
[funky house music playing]
I'm so happy to be in a blue chair
I'm feeling really good today
My rebellion look is a feminist statement
It's about how women writers
in the past used to have to publish
under either a male alias or anonymously
It's that act of rebellion
of still being published
even when they weren't really supposed to
[humming melodically]
- Hello, Kris
- Hello
- Hello
- Hello, hi
This is a very big look today, isn't it?
- Yeah, wouldn't be like me. [laughs]
- Yeah. Nothing like your usual
- Yeah
- Do you wanna tell me what it is?
My stage of rebellion
is kinda based around
my early days when I kind of started
to realize my sexuality
Mm-hmm
I come from
a very traditional Irish background,
you know, Catholic upbringing
We were massively Catholic growing up
Like, went to mass every single Sunday
We'd go on, like, yearly pilgrimages
We'd do Lent every year
We'd fast on Fridays
Like, massively, massively religious
I remember, like,
when I was like 12 or 13,
I would pray
every single night to not be gay
Because I was just like,
"This is just trouble waiting to happen."
And then as I grew older,
grew into myself and got more okay
with it and more confident,
then it became a stage
of like, "Okay, I don't necessarily feel
at home in this religion
or this institution anymore,
so I want to start... pushing back."
I can hands-down say that I'm
the happiest I've ever been in my life
And being in this competition now,
it... it feels
like it's the perfect time to be here
So it's all inspired by stained glass,
the colors of the pride flag,
and it's just meant to show
the conflict but also the vibrancy
and the beauty of me
just emerging from it all
- Breaking free
- Exactly. Shattering the glass
- Shatter that glass
- Yeah
[Maya] Yong-chin's look is based on
the final collection of Alexander McQueen,
one of her rebellious idols
[Yong-chin] When I was like ten years old,
I would watch his shows
And I was just so inspired
by, like, how much of a visionary he was
and he would just do whatever he wanted
So, um, I've got
a really big paint to do today
I'm doing down to the bust
and on the face
So there's a lot to do,
but I know I can do it in the time
Kris, Nancé, you can start
Fifteen minutes are over
Whoo!
[intriguing music playing]
[Pablo] What material is that?
Is that latex?
- [Dominic] Is it tissue?
- I think... No, it's baking paper
You obviously don't do much baking
'cause that is too thin for baking paper
[Lisa] I'm actually gonna be adding
tissue paper to the face
and aging it to look like parchment
Ah, there's no glue in here. Oh, my gosh
[Maya] Throughout the competition,
Kris has gained a reputation
for making his own prosthetics
And today is no exception
Oh
What? What? Where did that come from?
Lift it higher
- Don't cover the corner of the eye
- Oh, no. That's still too low
Yeah. And it's so close to the eye
[Dominic] Kris makes his own prosthetics
The problem with that
is that it's not universal,
and it's not necessarily
gonna fit every model
Okay, I'm just gonna lift it up
for a second. Look up
Oh, and we're off
Two secs
[intriguing music plays]
[Maya] Nancé is also experimenting
with prosthetics
to try and make it into the final
Because I'm going for a look
that's gonna be quite distorted,
I want the facial features
to look weird and unnatural
But we'll see how it works out
Nancé's done
some pretty rebellious makeup
Absolutely. I'm very excited to see
what Nancé's gonna bring to the table
[Nancé] I've had
many moments of rebellion
When I used to work in retail,
there was a time when I showed up
to work with my hair in its natural state
I was told my hair
was unprofessional and unkempt
And I shouldn't come to work,
like, looking like that again
So every time my hair is in braids
or especially when it's
in a natural state,
I'm making a statement
[Yong-chin] So this will dry
and then split and crack
Thirty minutes gone
Two hours to go
[Yong-chin] Oh, my God. Maya
[Maya] How're you gonna get
these words onto the face?
- I'm gonna write them all with a pen
- Wow, okay
Even harder, though,
'cause of all the lumps and crevices
[Lisa] I feel it'll flow
with the face more
if I write it onto the face
That just seems really hard to me
[Nancé] Okay, okay, okay, okay
Oh, gosh. So annoying. So annoying!
- Hey
- [Yong-chin] Heya
What is this?
You're packing on a lot of mud
Yes, my look is, like, inspired
by, like, Alexander McQueen's
final collection
How come McQueen was such an idol to you?
I used to literally watch
his shows from when I was, like, ten
So watching his shows
from a really young age
like literally made me
want to study design
He grew up in a really normal household
Like, working class
Were you
from a working-class background also?
Yeah, I was. I think
it's always, like, really inspiring
when you have someone
come from a similar background as you
But it's quite complicated
You've gone for a lot
Yeah, but it's the semifinals,
so you have to go for a lot, right?
- Go big or go home
- Exactly
[moody music playing]
So just pull it, yeah
[Maya] Under pressure,
Kris is falling behind
[Val] Look at the state
of his poor model's eyes
[Dominic] Yeah
He looks so unhappy. [laughs]
[Maya] Oh, my God
- [Kris snorts]
- Massive horns
The madness continues
How do you feel?
Uh, not bad
[Maya and Kris laugh]
First time for sure
First time horning
"It's my first horn."
The model is questioning
his life choices right now
[Val and Dominic laugh]
[Kris chuckles] Instant face-lift
[suspenseful music plays]
Not too light
I'm just gonna mix them
Nancé has a long way to go
to get a finished look
This is ridiculous
It's looking so sick
[Pablo] Oh, I know what she's doing now
You know the last McQueen show?
- The Plato's Atlantis
- Oh, yes
The clothes had
all the kind of, like, folding
- So, that is like a fabric that is folded
- [Dominic] Oh!
Yes
[Pablo] If you get it right,
it's very clever
If you get it wrong,
it can really be a cliché
Yeah
One hour gone
Oh, my God
An hour and a half to go
[moody electronic music plays]
[hair dryer whirring]
- We're at the salon
- [laughing]
[Val] What is Kris doing?
[Dominic] It's cotton wool and latex
So they used cotton wool
to bulk out the shape,
and then go over the top with latex,
but it... it's very mucky
[Pablo] It's taking him
a long time to do this
I think he's bitten off
more than he can chew
[Kris] I'm trying to start on the painting
in between bits drying
Try to keep conscious of the time
'Cause I don't wanna
shoot myself in the foot
Okay
[cheerful soul music playing]
What's the first rebellious thing you did?
I used to steal apples
- Did you?
- Yeah. I had an anorak
We would go and, you know,
pinch apples from an orchard
- Filled the whole anorak
- Into the lining
So we'd come out, I could hardly walk
- [laughing]
- I had so many lumps and bumps
Yeah, and then we'd get sick
eating all the apples
'Cause they were cooking apples
- [all laugh]
- True, true. It's true
Scary
One hour left
Final push
Mm!
This bit's all squishy
[Maya] Once Lisa begins writing
on her carefully-applied tissue paper,
with no time to restart,
any mistakes are there for good
[groovy electronic music plays]
Still doing okay there?
[Nancé] I'm just laying down
the baby hairs onto the face
The baby hairs represent when Black women
didn't have, like, hair products
that they could use for their hair
So, they used to play
around with their hair,
and this is where the whole idea
of baby hairs came from
Oh, I forgot about my feather. [chuckles]
Hopefully, she's still sticky
[suspenseful music playing]
- Hey, Lisa
- Hi
So what are you writing?
So there's the names of the women
that had the pen name
And on some of them,
I've done their male pen name,
crossed it out,
and then put their real name
Okay. Keep going
Thank you
No
- How is it going?
- Good
- Trying to work the color on there
- Okay
On the stained glass,
I can see there's all black lines,
but you're doing them in white
I'm doing them white
just currently just to map it out
So, you're going to put
the black on top of the white?
Yeah
- Okay
- Bad idea?
- [chuckles]
- Yeah, keep going
Thanks
Dom, when you see what Kris is doing,
you're going to freak out
What? Why?
- He's mapping all the lines with white
- Yeah
But then he's gonna
paint them black on top
What? Why would you do that?
It's gonna mix and it's gonna get gray
It's just gonna look so wrong
Thirty minutes left
Final 30
[exhales]
[electronic music playing]
[Yong-chin] Think I've been
really bold with my use of color
and made sure that there's a lot of depth
[Dominic] I do like this
That is such a strong
graphic makeup on the eyes,
the prosthetic is getting lost
So was that a waste of time?
[Val] I mean, it's a big makeup
It's just too rough and ready
Oh, my God. I have so much left to do
When I think of rebellion,
I think of anarchy
This is very pretty. It's very delicate
Does it fit the brief?
[speaking indistinctly]
Ten minutes to go now
Final ten
[tense music playing]
Oh, God
Oh, forget it
I forgot what I was about to do
I wanna create showstopping pieces
I try to create work that would excite me
[Lisa] I haven't got too long left
So I'm just making sure
everything's perfect,
then I can sort of carry on
the writing until the end
[Nancé] I'm just stressing,
but I'm almost finished
Trying to think whether there's
anything else that I'm forgetting to do
One minute left
The final minute
[cheerful ethereal music playing]
Oh, mascara! [pops lip]
[Kris] Just trying to keep
the gas on the pedal now
Brushes down, please
Oh, well. [chuckles]
Please take your models
next door to be photographed
Let's go
[percussive music playing]
Oh, it's beyond rough around the edges
It was, like, dug-out-of-the-ground rough
It was definitely
the roughest work I've ever done
[Lisa] I think she looks beautiful
I really hope the judges do as well
It would mean a lot to me for the judges
to give me good feedback on this look
[Nancé] I hope
I've done enough to beat the seat,
but I won't know until I hear
what the judges have to say
So I'm just waiting for that time to come
Yong-chin
[suspenseful music playing]
My rebellion look is inspired
by Alexander McQueen,
in particular, his final collection
[Dominic] This is a big, big makeup
in two and a half hours
And it is so impressive
- I love it
- Thank you
I really see that final collection
within this makeup
The colors, the shapes,
that little flick of orange
There is something very moth-like,
very butterfly-like within that
And I just think it's really stunning
[Pablo] I do really like that you did,
that's very clever,
is that you didn't touch the model's hair,
but you incorporated that into the look
You used the blond part into the design
that you created on the face
and even the roots of the model
into the black lace here,
so that blends really well
It's very precise, very well-executed
It looks very professional
Thank you
You know what?
I don't have to critique this at all
It is a ding-dong from me
[sweeping music plays]
[all applaud]
- So, thank you, thank you. It was amazing
- [Yong-chin] Thank you
Thanks
Kris, would you like to step forward?
[gentle guitar music playing]
So this may come as a surprise
to everyone in the room
- But I am a gay man
- [all chuckle]
And my rebellion look centers
around when my religious upbringing
came into conflict with my sexuality
[Val] This is a huge makeup
And you always do a big makeup
Which is great
But you do make it hard for yourself
[Pablo] In terms of execution, yes,
the lines needed
to be blacker, straighter,
but the story is there
The one thing I'm gonna say...
[chuckles] is what?
- "Finesse."
- [Dominic] Finesse
It's like the story of your Glow Up life
You spent so long putting prosthetics on
that you are cutting your painting time
from two hours, 15 minutes to an hour
This is like a five, six-hour job
And you're trying to do it
in two hours, 15 minutes
- I mean, that's a big task
- Mm
- But well done. Thank you
- Thank you
[all applaud]
Nancé, would you like
to step forward, please?
[Nancé] For my look today, I'm rebelling
against Westernized standards of beauty
As a person of color,
I feel like I'm a walking representation
of what rebellion is
So I wanted to go against
what society deems beautiful
Thank you so much for sharing it with us
I appreciate that it's something
very personal and intimate
Overall, I really like what you did
It's very creative
The eye makeup, very symmetrical,
very precise, balance
But I wish you used that time
that you spent on the hair
to make those colors pop even more
Like that orange, for example,
kind of gets lost
I want orange if it's going to be there
I love the go-getter that is Nancé
I can see your story
I see the rebellion. I love it
I just think
you could've distorted it a bit more
You know, like, get that color
and just pack it on, pack it on
I love the punk anarchy,
but I think you could've gone bigger
Okay
[Dominic] Nancé, I... I love this
The placement of the shapes
that change and distort the face,
almost like a sound coming off it,
it's really just so interesting
I have to say that I think
you wasted time with the prosthetics
I don't think they're necessary
I think you could've created
more distortion with makeup
Okay
But thing is,
that I get so excited, is you
You have such a beautiful way
of approaching makeup
Your thought processes
are very unique to you
I just think it's great
- It gets me really excited about makeup
- Thank you
Well done Thank you
[all applaud]
Lisa, please step forward
[gentle melancholic music plays]
I wanted to do a look
inspired by female writers from history
who wrote with a male alias
or anonymously in order to be published,
at a time where women's voices
were not heard or valued
[Pablo] I love this story
My only criticism is
that there is three main parts
in this makeup
One of them is like a book,
so there's like paper and handwriting
The other half,
you have the ink splotches
And then you got the quill here
It's almost like you are telling
the same story three times
Saying that,
the three parts are incredible
You are so talented
and you create a... quite a literal story
My worry is that,
think about walking around an art gallery
The art that is most interesting
is the ones you don't
necessarily understand straightaway
With this, I look at it, I know exactly
what it says straightaway
So would I just walk straight past it?
Start finding that balance
of what is literal
and what is slightly abstract
to give the viewer a moment to stop
and appreciate and take it all in,
because your work is worthy
of being taken all in
The technicalities
of your artistry is sublime
It is second to none
And I would really hate for people
to miss out on the nuances and the detail,
because they clocked it,
they understood it, and they walked on
- Well done. I love it
- Thank you
[Val] This is a work of art
from every perspective
The drawing of the quill,
the 3D effect of the shadow on the skin
We could've photographed your work
at any moment through the process,
because it looked so beautiful
It has to be a ding-dong from me
It has to be
It is just so gobsmackingly gorgeous!
- [chuckles]
- [all applaud]
Oh, my God
So, MUAs, if you could please go next door
whilst myself, Dom, and Pablo
decide who is going
into the Face Off elimination
[suspenseful music playing]
[Kris] I was disappointed with that look
because I know that's not my standard
I knew from the minute that I finished it
that it wasn't my best work
[Nancé] Every aspect of the face
should've been distorted,
and I should've
really packed the color on
So I understand the critiques
Let's look at Nancé
[Pablo] I wanted to see more
distortion, deconstruction,
if that's where she was going
That look in, okay, 15 minutes more,
but 15 minutes more,
and Nancé would not create
the same volume of makeup
that Yong-chin did
We know that Nancé
is a great makeup artist
We know she can do clever makeup
But is this makeup enough
to get Nancé out of that seat?
Let's talk about the other MUA
that started today in the Face Off chair,
and that was Kris
[Pablo] The idea is there
The quality should be
at a much higher level
The lack of finesse leaves his makeup
looking very slapdash, very rushed
- And that's because he is
- [Pablo] Mm-hmm
Why won't he just do something simple?
I do also wanna talk about Lisa
We cannot deny
that Lisa is exceptionally talented,
but I feel like it's just a bit bland
Like, where's the interest?
Where's the point of which
you wanna stop and really take it all in?
There's no layers. It's one-dimensional
That's exactly the point
It's one-dimensional
That's what is losing my interest
See, I can't agree with you guys at all
This is an incredible makeup
The 3D nib on the pen,
the shadow, the beauty of it all
You are the semifinalistas
And, yeah, I'm really proud of you all
- Should we have a group hug?
- [artists] Yeah
Let's do that. That's nice
- [Maya] Well done, everybody
- [Kris] Good job, girls
- [Maya] Well done
- [Nancé] Well done, guys
Today, we've seen
some incredible makeup, right?
So that makes our decision very hard
[tense music playing]
- [Maya] Hello, judges
- Hello
- [Maya] Have you made your decision?
- We certainly have
So, guys, you've all delivered
some incredible makeups
So you should all feel
really proud of yourselves
to get this far to the semifinal
in this competition
Kris, Nancé,
you both started today
in the Face Off chairs,
but did you do enough to beat the seat?
Kris, we asked for something
that went against the norm
and broke all the rules,
and your look certainly did that
However, it wasn't finished,
and it certainly wasn't up
to the standard we were looking for
So for that reason,
you will be the first MUA
going into the Face Off elimination
Nancé,
you told a very important story,
and you told it beautifully
But we would've liked your makeup
to be bigger and bolder
So for that reason and that reason alone,
you'll be the second MUA
going into the Face Off elimination
- Thank you, judges
- Thank you
All right. Nancé, Kris,
please say your goodbyes
as only one of you will be returning
[Nancé] It's not my time to go
I'm not going anywhere
I've already tunnel-visioned myself
in the final and it's gonna happen
I really want to get through to the final
because I really don't want that to be
the look that I go out on
in this competition, you know?
I am so much better than that
- Okay, let's do this
- [Kris] Okay
- [Maya] Ready?
- [Nancé] Mm-hmm
[Maya] To level the playing field,
the MUAs will face off
over a set of identical twins
This week, you worked
at a fast-paced fashion show
So for today's Face Off,
we want you to create
a high-fashion makeup
We want you to create a black oval eye
For this high-fashion
graphic black oval eye,
load up the top and bottom water line
with loads of black eye pencil,
working it into the root of the lash
with a short, stumpy makeup brush
Using the round edge
of a large eyeshadow brush
which is saturated in gel liner,
press it against
the outside edge of the eyelid
and sweep down
into the inner corner of the eye
Repeat this process
starting from the inner corner,
and connect these two black marks
and fill it in with black gel liner
Lightly blend some black eyeshadow
around the black oval shape
to soften the edge
And what you'll be left with
is a catwalk-ready graphic black oval eye
We want you to create
a big, bold, black eye
with soft edges, with no fallout,
incorporating the upper and lower lid
Make it a real showstopper
Your look must be symmetrical
You'll have 15 minutes
to complete your look
Best of luck to both of you
Your time starts now
[suspenseful music playing]
Five minutes gone
Ten minutes left
Oh, my days. This is neck and neck
We asked for a big, bold, black eye,
and they have both given us that
At this stage of the competition,
they are both confident
It was great to see Nancé doing her prep
She laid down powder under the eye,
and what that will do
is that will collect all the fallout
And she'll be able
to just sweep it away. Genius
[Dominic] Kris went in
with a fluffy brush,
with just the pencil
to brush out that line
But then he changed it for a cotton bud,
which is not gonna give you a blend,
it's gonna push and smudge
which is not the soft edge
we're gonna want
- Let's see
- Come on, then
- Let's look
- It's all to play for
Two minutes left
[suspenseful percussive music playing]
One minute left now
Final minute
Ten, nine, eight, seven,
six, five, four,
three, two, one
Brushes down, please
[gentle music playing]
[Val] Conflab?
[Dominic sighs heavily]
- I think so
- Let's go
That is so close
Val, what we gonna do?
Well, we've just gotta break it down
I mean, they've both done really well
[Dominic] They're both different shapes,
but they both fit the model
Now, I'm going to say
that neither of them
have nailed the symmetry. I...
- It's not far off though
- It's not far off
- [Val] The one thing that I noticed...
- Mm?
Fallout
I saw that too
[Val] On one eye on one model
That MUA took the powder off too soon
- Then went back in...
- Back in
...with more black shadow
Once that black eyeshadow
is on that skin, you can't move it
It's going to stick,
and it's gonna go gray and ashy
And that's what's happened
They've both delivered
incredible makeups over the weeks,
and for it to come down
to one thing, fallout...
- Yeah
- Oh, it's so tight
Who would have thought?
[tense music plays]
[Maya] Have you made a decision?
[both] We have
[sighs]
[percussive music playing]