Everest: Beyond the Limit (2006–…): Season 1, Episode 4 - Into the Death Zone - full transcript
Both teams are trapped in camp at high altitude by unexpectedly high winds that threaten to wreck their summit bid. It's particularly bad news for Mogens Jensen who is climbing without ...
Narrator:
LAST TIME ON "EVEREST"...
FIREMAN BRETT MERRELL
IS CAUGHT IN A WHITEOUT.
BRETT'S DREAM IS OVER,
BUT ASTHMATIC MOGENS JENSEN
MAKES RECORD TIME,
CLIMBING WITHOUT BOTTLED OXYGEN.
NOW, WITH THE SUMMIT IN SIGHT,
THE MOUNTAIN TURNS ON MOGENS,
AND TEAM 1 IS HELD HOSTAGE
BY SUB-ZERO WINDS.
IN THE CAMP BELOW,
TIM, THE BIKER, AND MARK, A
DOUBLE AMPUTEE, WATCH AND WAIT.
THE PROBLEM IS THAT
WE'RE STUCK HERE ANOTHER DAY.
EXPEDITION LEADER
RUSSELL BRICE MUST DECIDE
WHETHER TO DELAY THE CLIMB
OR SEND HIS TEAMS
INTO THE DEATH ZONE.
BUGGER!
WELCOME TO EVEREST.
Narrator: AND NO ONE KNOWS
THAT WAITING AT SUMMIT HEAVEN...
IS A TRAFFIC JAM FROM HELL.
Terry: COME ON!
Bill: LET'S GO!
THIS IS A PLACE WAITING
FOR A BIG ACCIDENT.
PEOPLE ARE GOING TO DIE.
EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER.
EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER.
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY
DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS, INC.
Narrator: DAY 43.
WITHOUT BOTTLED OXYGEN,
33-YEAR-OLD MOGENS
HAS KEPT UP HIS AMAZING PACE
AND ARRIVES AT CAMP 3
WITH TERRY AND TEAM 1.
OH, THAT WAS NICE.
NOW THEY'RE PINNED DOWN.
AT 25,900 FEET, CAMP 3
IS ALMOST TWICE THE HEIGHT
OF THE TALLEST PEAK
IN THE AMERICAN ROCKIES.
TERRY AND MOGENS MUST CLIMB
1,600 FEET TO CAMP 4
TO BE IN STRIKING DISTANCE
FOR THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT
THAT BEGINS
AT 1:00 A.M., NEXT MORNING.
RUSSELL MUST LOOK
AT HIS FORECASTS
AND DECIDE WHETHER TO PUSH TERRY
AND MOGENS INTO THE DEATH ZONE,
A LETHAL BELT OF ALTITUDE
THAT BEGINS JUST ABOVE CAMP 3
AND EXTENDS TO THE SUMMIT.
THE TEAM IS HOT TO GO,
BUT RUSSELL IS CAUTIOUS.
IT'S NOT THAT BAD
UP HERE RIGHT NOW --
I MEAN, AGAIN,
AROUND 20 PLUS.
I'M SURE
WE CAN GET UP TO 4.
YEAH, I'VE GOT
ANOTHER FORECAST.
YOU'LL HAVE TO GIVE ME A LITTLE
BIT OF TIME TO DECIPHER IT.
RUSSELL DOESN'T FOLLOW
HIS FORECASTS BLINDLY.
HE INTERPRETS THE DATA,
BACKED BY YEARS OF WATCHING
THE MOUNTAIN'S
DEVASTATING SWINGS OF MOOD.
Russell: YEAH, THE WIND TODAY
IS DIFFERENT THAN IT WAS
WHEN THE SNOW CAME.
HERE WE ARE --
OUR SUMMIT DAYS.
NOW WE'VE GOT
A BUMP OF HUMIDITY IN HERE,
WHICH IS WHAT WE CAN SEE
OUTSIDE RIGHT NOW,
AND THAT'S
NOT PARTICULARLY GOOD FOR US.
Narrator: RUSSELL AGONIZES
OVER THE WEATHER
BECAUSE HE KNOWS WHAT
A DELAY COULD MEAN FOR MOGENS.
MOGENS SUFFERS
FROM EXERCISE-INDUCED ASTHMA
AND KEEPS IT IN CHECK
WITH MEDICATION.
BUT WITHOUT BOTTLED OXYGEN,
HE'S MORE VULNERABLE
TO HIGH-ALTITUDE SICKNESS
THAN THE OTHERS.
WE THOUGHT THAT THE WIND MIGHT
DROP, AND WE'D BE ABLE TO MOVE,
AND IT MIGHT STILL DROP ENOUGH
FOR US TO GET UP THIS AFTERNOON.
Narrator: IF RUSSELL
SENDS TERRY AND MOGENS NOW,
THEY FACE POSSIBLE FROSTBITE
IN THE FREEZING WINDS.
BUT IF HE KEEPS THEM
AN EXTRA NIGHT AT CAMP 3,
OTHER EXPEDITIONS
COULD PASS THEM
DURING A LULL IN THE WEATHER.
BILL, WOODY?
Bill:
Yeah, copy, Russ.
Okay,
I'm sort of figuring
LET'S HANG TIGHT
WHERE WE ARE,
AND WE MIGHT GET SLIGHTLY BETTER
FOR 13th AND 14th, OVER.
YEAH, COPY THAT.
AND IT LOOKS LIKE,
EVEN TOMORROW,
YOU'LL HAVE A BIT MORE WIND DOWN
LOWER THAN YOU WILL UP HIGH.
I think we will just
KNOCK IT ON THE HEAD TODAY --
I'M SORRY, GUYS --
AND START AGAIN TOMORROW.
YEAH, DON'T BE SORRY, RUSS.
IT'S THE BEST CALL OUT THERE.
SO, WE'VE BEEN TRYING
TO KEEP AHEAD OF THE GAME,
SO LET'S JUST
PLAN ON TOMORROW MORNING.
LET'S MAKE IT ROLL.
Narrator:
RUSSELL HAS ORDERED THE TEAM TO
STAY AN EXTRA NIGHT AT CAMP 3.
MOGENS?
YEAH, SORRY ABOUT THAT.
IT'S NOT WHAT YOU NEED, I KNOW.
HOW DO YOU FEEL?
YEAH, ROGER THAT.
RUSSELL'S DECISION
HAS A RIPPLE EFFECT
ON TIM AND MARK,
NOW WAITING 1,400 FEET
BELOW TERRY AND MOGENS,
AT CAMP 2.
HOURS COUNT ON EVEREST.
OTHER EXPEDITIONS
ARE HEADED UP THE MOUNTAIN,
AND THE ALTITUDE CLOCK
IS TICKING FOR MOGENS.
DAY 44, 7:00 A.M.,
ADVANCED BASE CAMP.
MOGENS' LUNGS ARE CLEAR,
AND THE WEATHER CONDITIONS
HAVE IMPROVED AT 25,900 FEET.
IT'S THE MORNING
OF MAY THE 13th, 2006.
WE'RE AT CAMP 3, 7,900 METERS.
HEADED UP TO CAMP 4 TODAY.
DOING WELL DESPITE SPENDING
A COUPLE NIGHTS HERE,
AND JUST GONNA TRY
AND TAKE IT EASY, TAKE MY TIME.
Narrator: AS HIS TEAMMATES
TURN ON THEIR OXYGEN VALVES,
MOGENS TURNS ON THE WILLPOWER.
MOGENS IS
A MOUNTAINEERING PURIST,
WHO BELIEVES THE ONLY WAY TO
MEASURE HIMSELF AGAINST NATURE
IS TO USE
THE BODY HE WAS BORN WITH.
THE MOMENT MOGENS AND TERRY
CLIMB 100 FEET ABOVE CAMP 3,
THEY ENTER THE DEATH ZONE.
HERE, THE EXTREME ALTITUDE
SHUTS DOWN DIGESTION,
AND THE BODY CONSUMES ITS
OWN MUSCLE TISSUE FOR ENERGY.
NO ONE'S EVER
SURVIVED THE DEATH ZONE
FOR MORE THAN FIVE DAYS.
THE AIR IS SO THIN,
EVEN WITH BOTTLED OXYGEN,
THE BODY STILL CRAVES MORE.
[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]
EACH MAN STRUGGLES
TO STAY ON THE ICY LEDGES.
ONLY THE SHERPA SAFETY LINES
KEEP THEM FROM FALLING
DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]
BUT JUST 15 MINUTES
INTO THE CLIMB,
MOGENS HAS FALLEN BEHIND TERRY
AND THE OTHERS.
MOGENS NOW FIGHTS
TO STAY ON THE MOUNTAIN
AS THE DEATH ZONE
CLOSES AROUND HIM.
Narrator: THE REST OF THE TEAM
IS FAR UP THE MOUNTAIN
WHEN MOGENS CHECKS IN
WITH THEIR GUIDE, BILL.
MOEGNS IS HAVING
A BAD DAY.
AND HE'S DECIDED
TO TURN AROUND AND GO DOWN.
HE'S DIZZY, NAUSEOUS,
FEELING NOT VERY GOOD.
Narrator: WHILE RUSSELL
REMAINS CONCERNED ABOUT MOGENS,
HE KNOWS THAT A CAMERAMAN
FROM THE "EVEREST" FILM CREW
IS WATCHING OVER HIM.
RUSSELL MUST NOW
TURN HIS ATTENTION
TO MOVING
THE EXPEDITION HEADQUARTERS
UP THE MOUNTAIN
TO NORTH COL, CAMP 1.
ALL RUSSELL LEAVES BEHIND
AT ABC IS AN OFFERING
TO PROTECT HIS CLIMBERS,
THE SHERPAS, AND MOGENS.
Man:
CHEERS, BIG BOSS.
YEAH, SEE YOU.
I'M GETTING TOO OLD
FOR ALL THIS, YOU KNOW?
I HAVE TO WALK
FOR 2 1/2 HOURS
TO GET TO WORK
IN THE MORNING.
BLOODY HELL.
Narrator:
RUSSELL NOW MAKES
THE TEDIOUS CLIMB
UP THE ICE CLIFF TO NORTH COL.
HIS TEAMS ARE NOW
ALL OVER THE MOUNTAIN.
TERRY AND BILL
INCH UP TO CAMP 4,
AS MOGENS
STRUGGLES DOWN TO CAMP 3.
TIM AND MARK
WILL SOON BE THERE, AS WELL.
THEIR GUIDE, WOODY,
IS FIRST TO ARRIVE
AND FINDS MOGENS
IN THE EARLY PHASE
OF ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS.
I CAN SEE YOUR LIPS
ARE QUITE BLUE, OKAY?
SO I KNOW IT'S A DIRTY WORD...
[ CHUCKLES ]
...BUT I THINK IF YOU'RE JUST
EVEN ON, YOU KNOW,
HALF A LITER
OR ONE LITER...
JUST RELAX.
YEAH, IT'LL
JUST GET THE OXYGEN FLOWING
AROUND YOUR BODY AGAIN.
LET ME FEEL YOUR HANDS.
YEAH,
THEY'RE A LITTLE...
YOU'RE NOT TOO BAD.
WELL, IT'S GONNA
ALLEVIATE...
YEAH.
...WHAT PROBLEMS
YOU DO HAVE.
OKAY.
MOGENS, YOU'VE SUCCUMBED
TO THE DARK SIDE!
[ CHUCKLES ]
HOPEFULLY, IT'LL START MAKING
HIM FEEL A BIT BETTER,
OTHERWISE,
WE'LL JUST HAVE TO REASSESS,
SEE HOW HE'S FEELING
IN 20 OR 30 MINUTES.
FEELING BETTER NOW,
MOGENS?
TIM, MARK,
AND THE REST OF TEAM 2
NOW TRICKLE INTO CAMP 3
BEHIND WOODY.
OKAY,
I'LL CATCH YOU NEXT TIME.
THIS MAN --
GREAT MOUNTAINEER...
AWESOME CLIMBER.
HE CAN OUTCLIMB ME ANY DAY.
OH, IT WAS NICE TO USE OXYGEN.
[ COUGHS ]
Narrator: NO ONE THOUGHT
TIM WOULD EVER GET THIS FAR.
THE BIKER HAS SUFFERED
TWO MOTORCYCLE CRASHES,
AND HIS BACK IS HELD TOGETHER
WITH METAL BRACES AND BOLTS.
[ CHUCKLES ] I RESPOND
BETTER UNDER PRESSURE.
THANKS, MATE.
MOGENS MUST DESCEND
BECAUSE OXYGEN
ONLY ALLEVIATES HIS SYMPTOMS.
FULL RECOVERY REQUIRES AT LEAST
TWO DAYS AT LOWER ALTITUDE.
NORTH COL, NORTH COL.
RUSSELL FROM WOODY.
[ Russell talking indistinctly ]
MOGENS
IS JUST LEAVING CAMP 3 NOW.
[ WOODY TALKING INDISTINCTLY ]
Narrator:
FOR TWO YEARS RUNNING,
MOGENS HAS CARRIED HIS DREAM
UP THE MOUNTAIN.
NOW, TO SAVE HIMSELF,
HE MUST LEAVE HIS DREAM BEHIND
ONCE AGAIN.
Narrator: NORTH COL, CAMP 1 --
JUST OVER 4 MILES HIGH.
RUSSELL'S SET UP SHOP
IN HIS NEW HEADQUARTERS.
FROM HERE, HE HAS
A CLEAR VIEW OF THE SUMMIT RIDGE
AND GOOD RADIO RECEPTION
WITH HIS TEAMS.
I'LL JUST TAKE ONE
OF THESE REGULATORS, BATTERIES.
AH, HERE'S THE RADIO.
Narrator: BOTH TEAMS WILL MAKE
SEPARATE PUSHES TO THE TOP
IN THE NEXT 48 HOURS.
RUSSELL WON'T SLEEP
UNTIL THEY LEAVE THE SUMMIT
AND DEATH ZONE FOR GOOD.
I'M GONNA BE STUCK HERE FOR
THE NEXT COUPLE OF DAYS, REALLY,
AND, HOPEFULLY, GET EVERYONE
UP AND DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
Narrator:
MOGENS STRUGGLES INTO NORTH COL
AFTER A PAINFUL 4-HOUR TREK
DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
SORRY, MOGENS.
RUSSELL SUSPECTS
HE'S RESPONSIBLE
FOR PUSHING MOGENS
OVER THE EDGE,
WHEN HE HELD THE DANISH CLIMBER
NEAR THE DEATH ZONE
AN EXTRA NIGHT.
NO.
AT CAMP 4, TERRY PREPARES
FOR WHAT MAY BE
THE GREATEST DAY OF HIS LIFE.
AT 27,500 FEET, IT'S MORE OF
A REST STOP THAN AN OVERNIGHT.
TERRY AND BILL
HAVE JUST ENOUGH TIME
TO DRINK FLUIDS,
FORCE DOWN SOME FOOD,
AND GRAB
A FEW HOURS OF SLEEP
BEFORE THE SUMMIT PUSH
AT 1:00 A.M.
O'Connor: YOU'RE JUST THERE FOR
A REALLY SHORT PERIOD OF TIME.
YOU KIND OF ARRIVE,
AND YOU'RE LOOKING
AT MAYBE FOUR OR FIVE HOURS
OF SOME DOWN TIME.
Narrator: THREE OF THE SHERPAS
WEAR HELMET-MOUNTED CAMERAS
ON THE TREACHEROUS CLIMB
TO THE SUMMIT.
NONSTOP VIDEO WILL BE
TRANSMITTED TO BASE CAMP.
NO EVEREST CLIMB
HAS EVER BEEN COVERED
IN SUCH
MINUTE-BY-MINUTE DETAIL.
AT MIDNIGHT,
TERRY AND BILL SORT THEIR GEAR.
AT THIS ALTITUDE,
EVERY POUND FEELS LIKE 10,
SO ONLY ESSENTIALS CAN BE TAKEN.
1:13 A.M.
THE LAST LEG OF THE SUMMIT
ATTEMPT BEGINS IN TOTAL DARKNESS
ON A STEEP, FROZEN RIDGE.
THE CLIMBERS
MUST HOOK ON TO THE ROPE
RIGGED WEEKS AGO
BY RUSSELL'S SHERPAS.
THE REST
ARE FROM PREVIOUS SEASONS
AND COULD SNAP
WITHOUT WARNING.
TERRY AND THE OTHER CLIMBERS
USE A METAL RING
CALLED A CARABINER
TO ATTACH THEMSELVES
TO THE SAFETY LINE.
ANOTHER DEVICE, THE ASCENDER,
ALLOWS THEM TO GRIP
AND LOCK ON TO THE ROPE
AND PULL HIGHER.
Russell:
Bill, you copy?
YEAH, RUSS,
GO AHEAD.
THEY LEAVE EARLY
TO ALLOW JUST ENOUGH TIME
TO STAND AT THE SUMMIT
A FEW MINUTES
AND RETREAT BELOW THE DEATH ZONE
IN DAYLIGHT.
TERRY MUST NOW CLIMB
UP THE NORTH RIDGE,
TO A SMALL ROCK FACE
CALLED THE FIRST STEP.
BUT RUSSELL'S DECISION
TO DELAY THE TEAM AT CAMP 3
COMES BACK
TO HAUNT TERRY AND BILL.
Terry: COME ON.
Bill:
AH, COME ON!
OTHER EXPEDITIONS
CAUGHT UP WITH RUSSELL'S TEAM
WHILE THEY HELD AT CAMP 3...
...AND THIS MORNING, AS TERRY
SLEPT, THEY WERE PASSED.
RUSSELL'S NERVE CENTER
IS NOW REDUCED
TO HIS SLEEPING BAG.
IT'S 20 DEGREES BELOW --
SO COLD THAT EVERYTHING INSIDE
IS COVERED IN ICE CRYSTALS.
LOOKS LIKE --
WHAT I DIDN'T WANT TO HAPPEN IS
BE A LOT OF PEOPLE UP THERE.
SO IT SLOWED PROGRESS
UP THE EXIT CRACKS.
Narrator: THE EXIT CRACKS
ARE A SERIES OF ROCKY LEDGES
BETWEEN CAMP 4
AND THE NORTHEAST RIDGE.
IT'S A TOUGH PLACE TO PASS,
BUT SUDDENLY,
THERE'S A FAR GREATER CHALLENGE.
4:01 A.M.
TERRY FINDS BILL
BEFORE HE PASSES OUT,
THANKS TO RUSSELL'S SAFETY NET
OF RADIO COMMUNICATIONS.
JUST AS TERRY AND THE TEAM
START TO MAKE PROGRESS AGAIN,
THEY HIT
BUMPER-TO-BUMPER TRAFFIC
AT THE FIRST STEP.
[ LAUGHS ]
LET'S GO!
COME ON!
COME ON!
LET US GO!
Narrator: 4:43 A.M.
TERRY AND BILL
ARE HOPELESSLY STALLED
BEHIND A GROUP
OF SLOW CLIMBERS.
4:45, AND THEY'RE STILL
ONLY AT THE FIRST STEP.
SO THERE'S A BIG BUNCH
OF PEOPLE THERE.
AND SLOW, APPARENTLY.
WE DON'T KNOW WHO THEY ARE,
AND THIS IS BECOMING
A BIT OF A WORRY.
Narrator: IF THE LINE
DOESN'T START MOVING,
TERRY COULD RUN OUT OF OXYGEN
BEFORE THE CLIMB IS OVER.
TOO MANY PEOPLE HERE NOW...
AND PEOPLE THAT AREN'T COMPETENT
TO MOVE UP AND DOWN THE ROPES,
THEY HOLD EVERYONE ELSE UP.
Narrator: RUSSELL KNOWS
EXACTLY WHERE HIS TEAMS MUST BE
DURING THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT
AND HOW MUCH OXYGEN MUST REMAIN
FOR THEIR SAFE RETURN.
IF TERRY USES TOO MUCH OXYGEN,
RUSSELL WILL CALL HIM BACK.
BILL AND TERRY MANAGE
TO PUSH PAST SOME CLIMBERS
TO REACH MUSHROOM ROCK.
HERE, THEY NEED TO CHANGE
OXYGEN BOTTLES.
THE NEW BOTTLE
GIVES THEM EIGHT HOURS TO SUMMIT
AND RETURN
TO THIS SAME POSITION.
THE "OXYGEN CLOCK"
IS NOW TICKING.
Ken: LET SOMEBODY GO ON UP.
GO!
THE BOTTLENECKS ARE LOCATED
IN THREE STEPS --
THE MOST INTIMIDATING SECTIONS
OF THE MOUNTAIN.
EACH ONE REQUIRES
SCALING A ROCK FACE.
THE SECOND STEP
IS NEARLY 100 FEET HIGH.
Russell:
IT'S NOT TECHNICALLY DIFFICULT,
BUT WITH A LOT OF CLIMBING GEAR
AND OXYGEN MASKS AND THINGS,
IT FEELS TO BE VERY EXPOSED
AND TECHNICAL.
AND THEN
YOU COME ONTO A LADDER.
THIS TENDS
TO BE A BOTTLENECK.
A LOT OF PEOPLE DON'T KNOW
HOW TO USE THIS LADDER.
THEY'RE NOT CONFIDENT
TO PULL ON THE ROPES,
AND THERE'S ALWAYS
GOING TO BE A TRAFFIC JAM.
Narrator:
THE LADDER SPANS THE STEEPEST
SECTION OF THIS SECOND STEP.
ONLY ONE CLIMBER
CAN SCALE IT AT A TIME.
TERRY AND BILL
HAVE BEEN EXPOSED
TO MINUS-40-DEGREE AIR
FOR NEARLY FIVE HOURS NOW,
AND THE SUN
IS JUST BEGINNING TO RISE.
RUSSELL MUST RELY ON HIS SHERPAS
TO HELP THEM
AROUND THE TRAFFIC JAM.
NOW HE TURNS HIS ATTENTION
TO MOGENS.
AFTER A NIGHT'S REST
AT CAMP 1,
HE'S CLEARED TO HEAD DOWN
TO ADVANCED BASE CAMP.
OKAY?
YEAH.
YOU TAKE CARE,
AND WE'LL SEE YOU DOWN THERE.
WE'LL SEE
WHAT WE'RE UP TO AFTER THAT.
YEAH, SURE.
YEAH, RUSS.
YEAH, OKAY.
BYE-BYE. TIME I START DOWN.
OKAY.
TERRY KNOWS THE NEXT CALL
FROM RUSSELL TO BILL
COULD BE AN ABORT,
AND HIS SUMMIT
COULD END IN A LONG RETREAT
DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
IT'S SO COLD,
THE CAMERAS ARE FREEZING UP,
AND FROSTBITE CAN'T BE
FAR BEHIND FOR THE TEAM.
A LINE OF NOVICE CLIMBERS
NOW BLOCK THE SUMMIT.
MOST OF THEM
DON'T SPEAK ENGLISH,
SOME MAY BE OUT OF THEIR
HEADS WITH ALTITUDE SICKNESS,
AND NO ONE'S GIVING WAY.
6:31 A.M.,
SECOND STEP, MOUNT EVEREST.
TERRY AND BILL
CHANGED OXYGEN BOTTLES
ONE HOUR AND 40 MINUTES AGO.
EVEN IF THEY GET PAST THE JAM,
THEY STILL HAVE AT LEAST
A TWO-HOUR CLIMB TO THE SUMMIT.
I'M JUST CALCULATING
HOW MANY MINUTES
THEY'VE BEEN AWAY
FROM TOP CAMP.
AND HOW MUCH OXYGEN
THEY SHOULD HAVE LEFT.
Narrator: AS THE CRISIS DEEPENS
AT THE SECOND STEP,
BRETT HIKES UP
FROM ADVANCED BASE CAMP
TO MEET MOGENS
ON HIS WAY DOWN.
WE CAME UP HERE
TO GIVE HIM A HOT BLACK TEA
AND TO RAISE HIS SPIRITS
AND TO CARRY HIS PACK BACK.
AFTER A TRUDGE
OFF THAT MOUNTAIN LIKE THAT,
I'M SURE HE'LL APPRECIATE IT
A LOT.
MOGENS IS A GREAT GUY.
HE'S A FRIEND OF MINE.
HE'S MY CLIMBING PARTNER
FOR THIS TRIP,
AND I JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE I
SUPPORT HIM AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.
HOW YOU DOING?
[ SNIFFLES ]
IT'S OKAY.
YOU DID GOOD.
YOU DID GOOD.
EVERYONE'S
PROUD OF YOU.
EVERYONE'S
PROUD OF YOU.
WE GOT SOME HOT TEA
FOR YOUR BAD CRAMP, OKAY?
Narrator:
MOEGNS HAS NO DOUBT NOW
WHAT WENT WRONG.
Brett: THAT'S
A PRETTY SCARY FEELING.
YEAH [BLEEP]
Narrator:
BACK AT THE SECOND STEP,
TERRY AND GUIDE BILL
FINALLY GET A BREAK.
THEY MANAGE TO MAKE IT
ONTO THE LADDER
AFTER A FULL AND FREEZING
HOUR IN LINE.
Ken: BEEN KIND OF AN INTERESTING
MORNING SO FAR, EH, BILL?
BEEN AN INTERESTING MORNING,
KEN.
HAD A COUPLE
OF VERY, VERY SLOW PARTIES
AND NOT VERY GOOD CLIMBERS.
SO WE'VE BEEN MOVING
EXTREMELY SLOW
AND NOT VERY POLITE, EITHER,
IN LETTING PEOPLE PASS THEM.
THE TEAM'S PRETTY COLD.
CRAMPONS ABOVE MY HEAD.
THE TEAM GETS A REPRIEVE
FROM RUSSELL
WHO CALCULATES
THEY HAVE JUST ENOUGH OXYGEN
TO MAKE IT TO THE SUMMIT
AND RETURN TO THEIR STASHED
BOTTLES AT MUSHROOM ROCK.
Terry: THANKFULLY,
IT HASN'T BEEN TOO WINDY,
BUT STILL DESPITE THAT,
YOU KNOW...
HANDS AND FEET PRETTY COLD,
OFF AND ON.
BESIDES THAT...
EH, IT'S NICE TO BE
ON THE SECOND STEP --
LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY.
WELL, THAT
JUST MADE IT WORTHWHILE.
IT'S THE FIRST TIME
I'VE SEEN THAT.
THAT'S GOOD STUFF.
Narrator: 8:22 A.M.
TERRY HAS NOW CLIMBED
FOR OVER SEVEN HOURS.
HE'S CLEARED THE SECOND STEP
BUT FACES TWO MORE HOURS
TO REACH THE SUMMIT.
[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]
WHILE TERRY AND
GUIDE BILL CATCH THEIR BREATH,
2,300 FEET BELOW,
MARK, TIM, AND GERARD
PREPARE TO LEAVE CAMP 3.
TODAY'S CLIMB LEADS THEM
INTO THE DEATH ZONE.
THEY'RE FOLLOWING TERRY'S
FOOTSTEPS UP TO CAMP 4.
AFTER A FEW HOURS OF SLEEP,
THEY'LL HEAD FOR THE SUMMIT.
KEEPING EXTREMITIES WARM
IS CRITICAL BEFORE SETTING OFF.
COLD FINGERS AND TOES
IN THE MORNING
CAN BE FROSTBITTEN BY NIGHT.
TIM SACRIFICED HOURS OF SLEEP
JUST TO KEEP WARM.
HE'S TIRED, AND IT'S
NOT A GOOD PLACE TO BE
FACING
A GRUELING SUMMIT ATTEMPT.
FOR MARK, THE CHALLENGES
OF BEING A DOUBLE AMPUTEE
ON EVEREST
ARE MAKING THEMSELVES
PAINFULLY FELT.
TERRY IS FINALLY
MAKING GOOD PROGRESS.
Man: [ CHUCKLES ]
Narrator: HE CAN ALMOST TASTE
THE SUMMIT,
AND HIS MOOD LIGHTENS.
Man: [ CHUCKLES ]
Narrator: TERRY NOW TAKES ON THE
LAST OBSTACLE TO HIS DREAM --
AN OUTCROPPING
CALLED THE DIHEDRAL.
[ INDISTINCT TALKING
OVER RADIO ]
Russell: THEY'RE NOT FAR
FROM THE SUMMIT NOW,
SO IN THE NEXT FEW MINUTES,
WE'LL...
PROBABLY BE HEARING --
[ RADIO CHATTER ]
YES, SOME PEOPLE
ON THE SUMMIT.
YEAH, TERRY, SO YOU'RE
JUST WAITING TO BE ABLE
TO HAVE A TURN
TO GET ON THE TOP?
YOU'RE JUST A FEW METERS BELOW,
IS THAT RIGHT?
Narrator:
TERRY NOW MOVES UP
THE MOST BIZARRE WAITING LINE
ON THE PLANET,
AND THERE'S NOWHERE ELSE
ON EARTH HE'D RATHER BE.
BUSY? YEAH.
BUSY DAY UP HERE
AT THE SUMMIT.
JUST EXTREMELY THANKFUL
THAT THE MOUNTAIN HAS DECIDED
TO LET US UP TODAY,
AND IT'S JUST
A BEAUTIFUL VIEW.
THERE'S
HARDLY ANY WIND TODAY,
AND I'M JUST SUPER HAPPY
TO BE ABLE TO DO THIS
FOR THOSE WHO'VE BEEN CLIMBING
FOR ME IN SPIRIT --
MY DAD,
WHO DIED JUST A LITTLE
UNDER A COUPLE YEARS AGO,
MY GRANDFATHER, WHO PASSED AWAY
JUST A COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO,
AND MY FRIEND CHARLIE...
...WHO TRAGICALLY DIED
IN A CLIMBING ACCIDENT
WHILE I WAS
HERE ON THIS EXPEDITION.
WELCOME TO HEAVEN, GUYS.
THIS IS FOR YOU.
HOPE I CAN MAKE YOU PROUD
WHEN I GET BACK TO EARTH.
[ CHUCKLES ]
...YOU'VE BEEN GOING
FOR JUST UNDER 600 MINUTES,
SO YOU DON'T HAVE TOO MUCH
OXYGEN LEFT ON THE WAY BACK.
SO I RECKON YOU SHOULD SPEND
NO MORE THAN HALF AN HOUR
ON THE SUMMIT, OVER.
Narrator: THESE DAYS,
REACHING THE SUMMIT OF EVEREST
IS MORE LIKE ATTENDING
A MOUNTAINEERING RALLY.
EACH CLIMBER WAITS IN LINE
FOR A TURN AT THE TOP.
AND FOR EACH SECOND THEY WAIT,
THERE'S A LITTLE LESS OXYGEN
LEFT FOR THE DESCENT.
I WAS JUST A LITTLE WORRIED
THAT WE'D GET TOO FAR BEHIND
WITH THAT TRAFFIC.
BUT I GOT
TONS OF ENERGY TO SPARE.
I GOT NO PROBLEM
GETTING DOWN TODAY.
Narrator: TERRY'S OLD TEAMMATES,
MOGENS AND BRETT,
LISTEN IN AT ADVANCED BASE CAMP
WITH MIXED EMOTIONS.
MOGENS AND I ARE STANDING HERE,
WATCHING OUR BUDDIES UP THERE.
THAT'S OUR TEAM
THAT'S SUMMITING TODAY,
AND IT'S TOUGH
NOT BEING UP THERE WITH THEM.
IT'S NOT JEALOUSY.
I JUST WANT
TO BE UP THERE REALLY BAD.
Man:
YES, SUH-SUH-SUH-SIR!
YEAH, YEAH!
WHOO-HOO!
WHOO!
WHOO-HOO!
Narrator:
TERRY AND BILL FINALLY TAKE
THEIR TURN ON TOP OF THE WORLD.
BEEN A FULL DAY --
TRAFFIC JAMS, SNOW, COLD.
NICE TO HAVE SOME SUN ON TOP.
UNFORTUNATELY,
IT'S A LITTLE SHORT.
RUSS NEEDS US TO GO
'CAUSE WE'RE GETTING LOW ON O's.
THEY'VE HAD
600 MINUTES OF OXYGEN.
IT'S BEEN
10 HOURS SINCE THEY LEFT.
THEY NEED TO GET DOWN QUICKLY,
SO I'M NOT GONNA GIVE THEM
MUCH TIME ON THE SUMMIT.
THIS ONE'S FOR MY POPS.
GOOD TO BE UP HERE
WITH YOU, DAD.
GLAD WE FINALLY MADE IT.
[ CHUCKLES ]
AND AS I ALWAYS SAY, GUYS,
REMEMBER YOU'RE ONLY HALFWAY.
YOU'VE GOT
THE HARD PART TO DO NOW.
Narrator:
CONQUERING EVEREST DOESN'T END
WITH A PHOTO AT THE SUMMIT.
80% OF ALL CLIMBING ACCIDENTS
HAPPEN DURING DESCENT.
FOR TERRY,
THE BATTLE IS NOT OVER
UNTIL HE'S
THROUGH THE DEATH ZONE
AND SAFELY IN CAMP.
IT'S TIME
TO GET OUT OF THE DEATH ZONE,
AND IT'S A LONG CLIMB DOWN.
THE EVEREST DREAM IS NOW
A REALITY FOR TERRY O'CONNOR.
HE AND BILL STAND
ON THE HIGHEST POINT ON EARTH.
OVER THE PAST 46 DAYS,
THEY'VE SURVIVED EVERYTHING
EVEREST THREW AT THEM --
ALL FOR A MERE 22 MINUTES
ON THE SUMMIT.
OKAY, SORRY, GUYS.
SHORT TIME, BUT IT'S BEEN
WORTHWHILE UP THERE, I THINK,
AND YOU NEED TO GET GOING.
Narrator:
TERRY DEPARTS THE SUMMIT
AFTER A BRUTAL, 10-HOUR CLIMB.
DURING DESCENT,
HIS ADRENALINE LEVEL FALLS,
AND HIS ENERGY FADES.
[ RADIO CRACKLES ]
TERRY'S CAREER AS
A DOCTOR DEPENDS ON HIS HANDS.
NOW HE CAN BARELY HANG ON
TO THE SAFETY LINE
AT THIS SHEER DROP-OFF.
AS HE STRUGGLES DOWN
TO THE SECOND STEP,
THE TRAFFIC JAM
IS THICKER THAN EVER.
Russell:
I'M GETTING WORRIED NOW
BECAUSE THIS IS
WHEN THE END OF THE DAY COMES,
AND WE'VE STILL GOT PEOPLE UP
HIGH, AND THEY NEED TO GET DOWN.
Narrator: FAR BELOW, MARK, TIM,
AND TEAM 2 CAN SEE THE CROWD
BUILDING AT THE TOP
OF THE SECOND STEP.
IT SHOULD ONLY TAKE 10 MINUTES
A PERSON -- AT THE MAXIMUM.
I FEEL REALLY SORRY
FOR BILL AND THE GUYS UP THERE,
HAVING TO STAND THERE AND WAIT
AND WAIT AND WAIT AND WAIT --
GETTING COLD,
GETTING LOW ON O's.
YOU KNOW,
TIME IS TICKING BY.
Russell: RIGHT NOW,
IT'S THE WORST PART OF THE DAY.
WE'VE HAD A BIG DELAY
AT THE TOP OF THE SECOND STEP.
I AM WORRIED ABOUT THESE GUYS --
THEM RUNNING OUT OF OXYGEN.
Narrator: TERRY IS STOPPED
ONCE AGAIN AT THE SECOND STEP.
RUSSELL'S OUT OF OPTIONS.
CALLING A RETREAT DURING TERRY'S
ASCENT WAS ALWAYS POSSIBLE,
BUT BLOCKED ON THE WAY DOWN,
RUSSELL IS HELPLESS.
TERRY AND HIS TEAM
ARE STUCK, WITH NO PLACE TO GO,
AND THEIR OXYGEN
IS HEADED FOR EMPTY.
NEXT TIME...
BIG TIM MEDVETZ,
DOUBLE AMPUTEE MARK INGLIS,
AND LEBANESE ADVENTURER
MAX CHAYA
FOLLOW IN TERRY'S FOOTSTEPS
AND MAKE THEIR SUMMIT BID.
IT'S GOING UP!
Narrator: FIVE MILES HIGH,
IN THE DEATH ZONE,
THE TEAM IS IN DESPERATE DANGER
WHEN TEMPERATURES PLUMMET
TO MINUS 40,
AND DETERMINATION
TURNS TO MUTINY...
COME BACK DOWN NOW.
I DON'T WANT YOU TO DIE.
Narrator:
...AS SUMMIT FEVER TAKES HOLD.
I GOT PLENTY OF OXYGEN
TO GET ME UP AND BACK.
TURN AROUND RIGHT NOW
[BLEEP] DAMN IT.
LAST TIME ON "EVEREST"...
FIREMAN BRETT MERRELL
IS CAUGHT IN A WHITEOUT.
BRETT'S DREAM IS OVER,
BUT ASTHMATIC MOGENS JENSEN
MAKES RECORD TIME,
CLIMBING WITHOUT BOTTLED OXYGEN.
NOW, WITH THE SUMMIT IN SIGHT,
THE MOUNTAIN TURNS ON MOGENS,
AND TEAM 1 IS HELD HOSTAGE
BY SUB-ZERO WINDS.
IN THE CAMP BELOW,
TIM, THE BIKER, AND MARK, A
DOUBLE AMPUTEE, WATCH AND WAIT.
THE PROBLEM IS THAT
WE'RE STUCK HERE ANOTHER DAY.
EXPEDITION LEADER
RUSSELL BRICE MUST DECIDE
WHETHER TO DELAY THE CLIMB
OR SEND HIS TEAMS
INTO THE DEATH ZONE.
BUGGER!
WELCOME TO EVEREST.
Narrator: AND NO ONE KNOWS
THAT WAITING AT SUMMIT HEAVEN...
IS A TRAFFIC JAM FROM HELL.
Terry: COME ON!
Bill: LET'S GO!
THIS IS A PLACE WAITING
FOR A BIG ACCIDENT.
PEOPLE ARE GOING TO DIE.
EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER.
EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER.
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY
DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS, INC.
Narrator: DAY 43.
WITHOUT BOTTLED OXYGEN,
33-YEAR-OLD MOGENS
HAS KEPT UP HIS AMAZING PACE
AND ARRIVES AT CAMP 3
WITH TERRY AND TEAM 1.
OH, THAT WAS NICE.
NOW THEY'RE PINNED DOWN.
AT 25,900 FEET, CAMP 3
IS ALMOST TWICE THE HEIGHT
OF THE TALLEST PEAK
IN THE AMERICAN ROCKIES.
TERRY AND MOGENS MUST CLIMB
1,600 FEET TO CAMP 4
TO BE IN STRIKING DISTANCE
FOR THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT
THAT BEGINS
AT 1:00 A.M., NEXT MORNING.
RUSSELL MUST LOOK
AT HIS FORECASTS
AND DECIDE WHETHER TO PUSH TERRY
AND MOGENS INTO THE DEATH ZONE,
A LETHAL BELT OF ALTITUDE
THAT BEGINS JUST ABOVE CAMP 3
AND EXTENDS TO THE SUMMIT.
THE TEAM IS HOT TO GO,
BUT RUSSELL IS CAUTIOUS.
IT'S NOT THAT BAD
UP HERE RIGHT NOW --
I MEAN, AGAIN,
AROUND 20 PLUS.
I'M SURE
WE CAN GET UP TO 4.
YEAH, I'VE GOT
ANOTHER FORECAST.
YOU'LL HAVE TO GIVE ME A LITTLE
BIT OF TIME TO DECIPHER IT.
RUSSELL DOESN'T FOLLOW
HIS FORECASTS BLINDLY.
HE INTERPRETS THE DATA,
BACKED BY YEARS OF WATCHING
THE MOUNTAIN'S
DEVASTATING SWINGS OF MOOD.
Russell: YEAH, THE WIND TODAY
IS DIFFERENT THAN IT WAS
WHEN THE SNOW CAME.
HERE WE ARE --
OUR SUMMIT DAYS.
NOW WE'VE GOT
A BUMP OF HUMIDITY IN HERE,
WHICH IS WHAT WE CAN SEE
OUTSIDE RIGHT NOW,
AND THAT'S
NOT PARTICULARLY GOOD FOR US.
Narrator: RUSSELL AGONIZES
OVER THE WEATHER
BECAUSE HE KNOWS WHAT
A DELAY COULD MEAN FOR MOGENS.
MOGENS SUFFERS
FROM EXERCISE-INDUCED ASTHMA
AND KEEPS IT IN CHECK
WITH MEDICATION.
BUT WITHOUT BOTTLED OXYGEN,
HE'S MORE VULNERABLE
TO HIGH-ALTITUDE SICKNESS
THAN THE OTHERS.
WE THOUGHT THAT THE WIND MIGHT
DROP, AND WE'D BE ABLE TO MOVE,
AND IT MIGHT STILL DROP ENOUGH
FOR US TO GET UP THIS AFTERNOON.
Narrator: IF RUSSELL
SENDS TERRY AND MOGENS NOW,
THEY FACE POSSIBLE FROSTBITE
IN THE FREEZING WINDS.
BUT IF HE KEEPS THEM
AN EXTRA NIGHT AT CAMP 3,
OTHER EXPEDITIONS
COULD PASS THEM
DURING A LULL IN THE WEATHER.
BILL, WOODY?
Bill:
Yeah, copy, Russ.
Okay,
I'm sort of figuring
LET'S HANG TIGHT
WHERE WE ARE,
AND WE MIGHT GET SLIGHTLY BETTER
FOR 13th AND 14th, OVER.
YEAH, COPY THAT.
AND IT LOOKS LIKE,
EVEN TOMORROW,
YOU'LL HAVE A BIT MORE WIND DOWN
LOWER THAN YOU WILL UP HIGH.
I think we will just
KNOCK IT ON THE HEAD TODAY --
I'M SORRY, GUYS --
AND START AGAIN TOMORROW.
YEAH, DON'T BE SORRY, RUSS.
IT'S THE BEST CALL OUT THERE.
SO, WE'VE BEEN TRYING
TO KEEP AHEAD OF THE GAME,
SO LET'S JUST
PLAN ON TOMORROW MORNING.
LET'S MAKE IT ROLL.
Narrator:
RUSSELL HAS ORDERED THE TEAM TO
STAY AN EXTRA NIGHT AT CAMP 3.
MOGENS?
YEAH, SORRY ABOUT THAT.
IT'S NOT WHAT YOU NEED, I KNOW.
HOW DO YOU FEEL?
YEAH, ROGER THAT.
RUSSELL'S DECISION
HAS A RIPPLE EFFECT
ON TIM AND MARK,
NOW WAITING 1,400 FEET
BELOW TERRY AND MOGENS,
AT CAMP 2.
HOURS COUNT ON EVEREST.
OTHER EXPEDITIONS
ARE HEADED UP THE MOUNTAIN,
AND THE ALTITUDE CLOCK
IS TICKING FOR MOGENS.
DAY 44, 7:00 A.M.,
ADVANCED BASE CAMP.
MOGENS' LUNGS ARE CLEAR,
AND THE WEATHER CONDITIONS
HAVE IMPROVED AT 25,900 FEET.
IT'S THE MORNING
OF MAY THE 13th, 2006.
WE'RE AT CAMP 3, 7,900 METERS.
HEADED UP TO CAMP 4 TODAY.
DOING WELL DESPITE SPENDING
A COUPLE NIGHTS HERE,
AND JUST GONNA TRY
AND TAKE IT EASY, TAKE MY TIME.
Narrator: AS HIS TEAMMATES
TURN ON THEIR OXYGEN VALVES,
MOGENS TURNS ON THE WILLPOWER.
MOGENS IS
A MOUNTAINEERING PURIST,
WHO BELIEVES THE ONLY WAY TO
MEASURE HIMSELF AGAINST NATURE
IS TO USE
THE BODY HE WAS BORN WITH.
THE MOMENT MOGENS AND TERRY
CLIMB 100 FEET ABOVE CAMP 3,
THEY ENTER THE DEATH ZONE.
HERE, THE EXTREME ALTITUDE
SHUTS DOWN DIGESTION,
AND THE BODY CONSUMES ITS
OWN MUSCLE TISSUE FOR ENERGY.
NO ONE'S EVER
SURVIVED THE DEATH ZONE
FOR MORE THAN FIVE DAYS.
THE AIR IS SO THIN,
EVEN WITH BOTTLED OXYGEN,
THE BODY STILL CRAVES MORE.
[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]
EACH MAN STRUGGLES
TO STAY ON THE ICY LEDGES.
ONLY THE SHERPA SAFETY LINES
KEEP THEM FROM FALLING
DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]
BUT JUST 15 MINUTES
INTO THE CLIMB,
MOGENS HAS FALLEN BEHIND TERRY
AND THE OTHERS.
MOGENS NOW FIGHTS
TO STAY ON THE MOUNTAIN
AS THE DEATH ZONE
CLOSES AROUND HIM.
Narrator: THE REST OF THE TEAM
IS FAR UP THE MOUNTAIN
WHEN MOGENS CHECKS IN
WITH THEIR GUIDE, BILL.
MOEGNS IS HAVING
A BAD DAY.
AND HE'S DECIDED
TO TURN AROUND AND GO DOWN.
HE'S DIZZY, NAUSEOUS,
FEELING NOT VERY GOOD.
Narrator: WHILE RUSSELL
REMAINS CONCERNED ABOUT MOGENS,
HE KNOWS THAT A CAMERAMAN
FROM THE "EVEREST" FILM CREW
IS WATCHING OVER HIM.
RUSSELL MUST NOW
TURN HIS ATTENTION
TO MOVING
THE EXPEDITION HEADQUARTERS
UP THE MOUNTAIN
TO NORTH COL, CAMP 1.
ALL RUSSELL LEAVES BEHIND
AT ABC IS AN OFFERING
TO PROTECT HIS CLIMBERS,
THE SHERPAS, AND MOGENS.
Man:
CHEERS, BIG BOSS.
YEAH, SEE YOU.
I'M GETTING TOO OLD
FOR ALL THIS, YOU KNOW?
I HAVE TO WALK
FOR 2 1/2 HOURS
TO GET TO WORK
IN THE MORNING.
BLOODY HELL.
Narrator:
RUSSELL NOW MAKES
THE TEDIOUS CLIMB
UP THE ICE CLIFF TO NORTH COL.
HIS TEAMS ARE NOW
ALL OVER THE MOUNTAIN.
TERRY AND BILL
INCH UP TO CAMP 4,
AS MOGENS
STRUGGLES DOWN TO CAMP 3.
TIM AND MARK
WILL SOON BE THERE, AS WELL.
THEIR GUIDE, WOODY,
IS FIRST TO ARRIVE
AND FINDS MOGENS
IN THE EARLY PHASE
OF ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS.
I CAN SEE YOUR LIPS
ARE QUITE BLUE, OKAY?
SO I KNOW IT'S A DIRTY WORD...
[ CHUCKLES ]
...BUT I THINK IF YOU'RE JUST
EVEN ON, YOU KNOW,
HALF A LITER
OR ONE LITER...
JUST RELAX.
YEAH, IT'LL
JUST GET THE OXYGEN FLOWING
AROUND YOUR BODY AGAIN.
LET ME FEEL YOUR HANDS.
YEAH,
THEY'RE A LITTLE...
YOU'RE NOT TOO BAD.
WELL, IT'S GONNA
ALLEVIATE...
YEAH.
...WHAT PROBLEMS
YOU DO HAVE.
OKAY.
MOGENS, YOU'VE SUCCUMBED
TO THE DARK SIDE!
[ CHUCKLES ]
HOPEFULLY, IT'LL START MAKING
HIM FEEL A BIT BETTER,
OTHERWISE,
WE'LL JUST HAVE TO REASSESS,
SEE HOW HE'S FEELING
IN 20 OR 30 MINUTES.
FEELING BETTER NOW,
MOGENS?
TIM, MARK,
AND THE REST OF TEAM 2
NOW TRICKLE INTO CAMP 3
BEHIND WOODY.
OKAY,
I'LL CATCH YOU NEXT TIME.
THIS MAN --
GREAT MOUNTAINEER...
AWESOME CLIMBER.
HE CAN OUTCLIMB ME ANY DAY.
OH, IT WAS NICE TO USE OXYGEN.
[ COUGHS ]
Narrator: NO ONE THOUGHT
TIM WOULD EVER GET THIS FAR.
THE BIKER HAS SUFFERED
TWO MOTORCYCLE CRASHES,
AND HIS BACK IS HELD TOGETHER
WITH METAL BRACES AND BOLTS.
[ CHUCKLES ] I RESPOND
BETTER UNDER PRESSURE.
THANKS, MATE.
MOGENS MUST DESCEND
BECAUSE OXYGEN
ONLY ALLEVIATES HIS SYMPTOMS.
FULL RECOVERY REQUIRES AT LEAST
TWO DAYS AT LOWER ALTITUDE.
NORTH COL, NORTH COL.
RUSSELL FROM WOODY.
[ Russell talking indistinctly ]
MOGENS
IS JUST LEAVING CAMP 3 NOW.
[ WOODY TALKING INDISTINCTLY ]
Narrator:
FOR TWO YEARS RUNNING,
MOGENS HAS CARRIED HIS DREAM
UP THE MOUNTAIN.
NOW, TO SAVE HIMSELF,
HE MUST LEAVE HIS DREAM BEHIND
ONCE AGAIN.
Narrator: NORTH COL, CAMP 1 --
JUST OVER 4 MILES HIGH.
RUSSELL'S SET UP SHOP
IN HIS NEW HEADQUARTERS.
FROM HERE, HE HAS
A CLEAR VIEW OF THE SUMMIT RIDGE
AND GOOD RADIO RECEPTION
WITH HIS TEAMS.
I'LL JUST TAKE ONE
OF THESE REGULATORS, BATTERIES.
AH, HERE'S THE RADIO.
Narrator: BOTH TEAMS WILL MAKE
SEPARATE PUSHES TO THE TOP
IN THE NEXT 48 HOURS.
RUSSELL WON'T SLEEP
UNTIL THEY LEAVE THE SUMMIT
AND DEATH ZONE FOR GOOD.
I'M GONNA BE STUCK HERE FOR
THE NEXT COUPLE OF DAYS, REALLY,
AND, HOPEFULLY, GET EVERYONE
UP AND DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
Narrator:
MOGENS STRUGGLES INTO NORTH COL
AFTER A PAINFUL 4-HOUR TREK
DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
SORRY, MOGENS.
RUSSELL SUSPECTS
HE'S RESPONSIBLE
FOR PUSHING MOGENS
OVER THE EDGE,
WHEN HE HELD THE DANISH CLIMBER
NEAR THE DEATH ZONE
AN EXTRA NIGHT.
NO.
AT CAMP 4, TERRY PREPARES
FOR WHAT MAY BE
THE GREATEST DAY OF HIS LIFE.
AT 27,500 FEET, IT'S MORE OF
A REST STOP THAN AN OVERNIGHT.
TERRY AND BILL
HAVE JUST ENOUGH TIME
TO DRINK FLUIDS,
FORCE DOWN SOME FOOD,
AND GRAB
A FEW HOURS OF SLEEP
BEFORE THE SUMMIT PUSH
AT 1:00 A.M.
O'Connor: YOU'RE JUST THERE FOR
A REALLY SHORT PERIOD OF TIME.
YOU KIND OF ARRIVE,
AND YOU'RE LOOKING
AT MAYBE FOUR OR FIVE HOURS
OF SOME DOWN TIME.
Narrator: THREE OF THE SHERPAS
WEAR HELMET-MOUNTED CAMERAS
ON THE TREACHEROUS CLIMB
TO THE SUMMIT.
NONSTOP VIDEO WILL BE
TRANSMITTED TO BASE CAMP.
NO EVEREST CLIMB
HAS EVER BEEN COVERED
IN SUCH
MINUTE-BY-MINUTE DETAIL.
AT MIDNIGHT,
TERRY AND BILL SORT THEIR GEAR.
AT THIS ALTITUDE,
EVERY POUND FEELS LIKE 10,
SO ONLY ESSENTIALS CAN BE TAKEN.
1:13 A.M.
THE LAST LEG OF THE SUMMIT
ATTEMPT BEGINS IN TOTAL DARKNESS
ON A STEEP, FROZEN RIDGE.
THE CLIMBERS
MUST HOOK ON TO THE ROPE
RIGGED WEEKS AGO
BY RUSSELL'S SHERPAS.
THE REST
ARE FROM PREVIOUS SEASONS
AND COULD SNAP
WITHOUT WARNING.
TERRY AND THE OTHER CLIMBERS
USE A METAL RING
CALLED A CARABINER
TO ATTACH THEMSELVES
TO THE SAFETY LINE.
ANOTHER DEVICE, THE ASCENDER,
ALLOWS THEM TO GRIP
AND LOCK ON TO THE ROPE
AND PULL HIGHER.
Russell:
Bill, you copy?
YEAH, RUSS,
GO AHEAD.
THEY LEAVE EARLY
TO ALLOW JUST ENOUGH TIME
TO STAND AT THE SUMMIT
A FEW MINUTES
AND RETREAT BELOW THE DEATH ZONE
IN DAYLIGHT.
TERRY MUST NOW CLIMB
UP THE NORTH RIDGE,
TO A SMALL ROCK FACE
CALLED THE FIRST STEP.
BUT RUSSELL'S DECISION
TO DELAY THE TEAM AT CAMP 3
COMES BACK
TO HAUNT TERRY AND BILL.
Terry: COME ON.
Bill:
AH, COME ON!
OTHER EXPEDITIONS
CAUGHT UP WITH RUSSELL'S TEAM
WHILE THEY HELD AT CAMP 3...
...AND THIS MORNING, AS TERRY
SLEPT, THEY WERE PASSED.
RUSSELL'S NERVE CENTER
IS NOW REDUCED
TO HIS SLEEPING BAG.
IT'S 20 DEGREES BELOW --
SO COLD THAT EVERYTHING INSIDE
IS COVERED IN ICE CRYSTALS.
LOOKS LIKE --
WHAT I DIDN'T WANT TO HAPPEN IS
BE A LOT OF PEOPLE UP THERE.
SO IT SLOWED PROGRESS
UP THE EXIT CRACKS.
Narrator: THE EXIT CRACKS
ARE A SERIES OF ROCKY LEDGES
BETWEEN CAMP 4
AND THE NORTHEAST RIDGE.
IT'S A TOUGH PLACE TO PASS,
BUT SUDDENLY,
THERE'S A FAR GREATER CHALLENGE.
4:01 A.M.
TERRY FINDS BILL
BEFORE HE PASSES OUT,
THANKS TO RUSSELL'S SAFETY NET
OF RADIO COMMUNICATIONS.
JUST AS TERRY AND THE TEAM
START TO MAKE PROGRESS AGAIN,
THEY HIT
BUMPER-TO-BUMPER TRAFFIC
AT THE FIRST STEP.
[ LAUGHS ]
LET'S GO!
COME ON!
COME ON!
LET US GO!
Narrator: 4:43 A.M.
TERRY AND BILL
ARE HOPELESSLY STALLED
BEHIND A GROUP
OF SLOW CLIMBERS.
4:45, AND THEY'RE STILL
ONLY AT THE FIRST STEP.
SO THERE'S A BIG BUNCH
OF PEOPLE THERE.
AND SLOW, APPARENTLY.
WE DON'T KNOW WHO THEY ARE,
AND THIS IS BECOMING
A BIT OF A WORRY.
Narrator: IF THE LINE
DOESN'T START MOVING,
TERRY COULD RUN OUT OF OXYGEN
BEFORE THE CLIMB IS OVER.
TOO MANY PEOPLE HERE NOW...
AND PEOPLE THAT AREN'T COMPETENT
TO MOVE UP AND DOWN THE ROPES,
THEY HOLD EVERYONE ELSE UP.
Narrator: RUSSELL KNOWS
EXACTLY WHERE HIS TEAMS MUST BE
DURING THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT
AND HOW MUCH OXYGEN MUST REMAIN
FOR THEIR SAFE RETURN.
IF TERRY USES TOO MUCH OXYGEN,
RUSSELL WILL CALL HIM BACK.
BILL AND TERRY MANAGE
TO PUSH PAST SOME CLIMBERS
TO REACH MUSHROOM ROCK.
HERE, THEY NEED TO CHANGE
OXYGEN BOTTLES.
THE NEW BOTTLE
GIVES THEM EIGHT HOURS TO SUMMIT
AND RETURN
TO THIS SAME POSITION.
THE "OXYGEN CLOCK"
IS NOW TICKING.
Ken: LET SOMEBODY GO ON UP.
GO!
THE BOTTLENECKS ARE LOCATED
IN THREE STEPS --
THE MOST INTIMIDATING SECTIONS
OF THE MOUNTAIN.
EACH ONE REQUIRES
SCALING A ROCK FACE.
THE SECOND STEP
IS NEARLY 100 FEET HIGH.
Russell:
IT'S NOT TECHNICALLY DIFFICULT,
BUT WITH A LOT OF CLIMBING GEAR
AND OXYGEN MASKS AND THINGS,
IT FEELS TO BE VERY EXPOSED
AND TECHNICAL.
AND THEN
YOU COME ONTO A LADDER.
THIS TENDS
TO BE A BOTTLENECK.
A LOT OF PEOPLE DON'T KNOW
HOW TO USE THIS LADDER.
THEY'RE NOT CONFIDENT
TO PULL ON THE ROPES,
AND THERE'S ALWAYS
GOING TO BE A TRAFFIC JAM.
Narrator:
THE LADDER SPANS THE STEEPEST
SECTION OF THIS SECOND STEP.
ONLY ONE CLIMBER
CAN SCALE IT AT A TIME.
TERRY AND BILL
HAVE BEEN EXPOSED
TO MINUS-40-DEGREE AIR
FOR NEARLY FIVE HOURS NOW,
AND THE SUN
IS JUST BEGINNING TO RISE.
RUSSELL MUST RELY ON HIS SHERPAS
TO HELP THEM
AROUND THE TRAFFIC JAM.
NOW HE TURNS HIS ATTENTION
TO MOGENS.
AFTER A NIGHT'S REST
AT CAMP 1,
HE'S CLEARED TO HEAD DOWN
TO ADVANCED BASE CAMP.
OKAY?
YEAH.
YOU TAKE CARE,
AND WE'LL SEE YOU DOWN THERE.
WE'LL SEE
WHAT WE'RE UP TO AFTER THAT.
YEAH, SURE.
YEAH, RUSS.
YEAH, OKAY.
BYE-BYE. TIME I START DOWN.
OKAY.
TERRY KNOWS THE NEXT CALL
FROM RUSSELL TO BILL
COULD BE AN ABORT,
AND HIS SUMMIT
COULD END IN A LONG RETREAT
DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
IT'S SO COLD,
THE CAMERAS ARE FREEZING UP,
AND FROSTBITE CAN'T BE
FAR BEHIND FOR THE TEAM.
A LINE OF NOVICE CLIMBERS
NOW BLOCK THE SUMMIT.
MOST OF THEM
DON'T SPEAK ENGLISH,
SOME MAY BE OUT OF THEIR
HEADS WITH ALTITUDE SICKNESS,
AND NO ONE'S GIVING WAY.
6:31 A.M.,
SECOND STEP, MOUNT EVEREST.
TERRY AND BILL
CHANGED OXYGEN BOTTLES
ONE HOUR AND 40 MINUTES AGO.
EVEN IF THEY GET PAST THE JAM,
THEY STILL HAVE AT LEAST
A TWO-HOUR CLIMB TO THE SUMMIT.
I'M JUST CALCULATING
HOW MANY MINUTES
THEY'VE BEEN AWAY
FROM TOP CAMP.
AND HOW MUCH OXYGEN
THEY SHOULD HAVE LEFT.
Narrator: AS THE CRISIS DEEPENS
AT THE SECOND STEP,
BRETT HIKES UP
FROM ADVANCED BASE CAMP
TO MEET MOGENS
ON HIS WAY DOWN.
WE CAME UP HERE
TO GIVE HIM A HOT BLACK TEA
AND TO RAISE HIS SPIRITS
AND TO CARRY HIS PACK BACK.
AFTER A TRUDGE
OFF THAT MOUNTAIN LIKE THAT,
I'M SURE HE'LL APPRECIATE IT
A LOT.
MOGENS IS A GREAT GUY.
HE'S A FRIEND OF MINE.
HE'S MY CLIMBING PARTNER
FOR THIS TRIP,
AND I JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE I
SUPPORT HIM AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.
HOW YOU DOING?
[ SNIFFLES ]
IT'S OKAY.
YOU DID GOOD.
YOU DID GOOD.
EVERYONE'S
PROUD OF YOU.
EVERYONE'S
PROUD OF YOU.
WE GOT SOME HOT TEA
FOR YOUR BAD CRAMP, OKAY?
Narrator:
MOEGNS HAS NO DOUBT NOW
WHAT WENT WRONG.
Brett: THAT'S
A PRETTY SCARY FEELING.
YEAH [BLEEP]
Narrator:
BACK AT THE SECOND STEP,
TERRY AND GUIDE BILL
FINALLY GET A BREAK.
THEY MANAGE TO MAKE IT
ONTO THE LADDER
AFTER A FULL AND FREEZING
HOUR IN LINE.
Ken: BEEN KIND OF AN INTERESTING
MORNING SO FAR, EH, BILL?
BEEN AN INTERESTING MORNING,
KEN.
HAD A COUPLE
OF VERY, VERY SLOW PARTIES
AND NOT VERY GOOD CLIMBERS.
SO WE'VE BEEN MOVING
EXTREMELY SLOW
AND NOT VERY POLITE, EITHER,
IN LETTING PEOPLE PASS THEM.
THE TEAM'S PRETTY COLD.
CRAMPONS ABOVE MY HEAD.
THE TEAM GETS A REPRIEVE
FROM RUSSELL
WHO CALCULATES
THEY HAVE JUST ENOUGH OXYGEN
TO MAKE IT TO THE SUMMIT
AND RETURN TO THEIR STASHED
BOTTLES AT MUSHROOM ROCK.
Terry: THANKFULLY,
IT HASN'T BEEN TOO WINDY,
BUT STILL DESPITE THAT,
YOU KNOW...
HANDS AND FEET PRETTY COLD,
OFF AND ON.
BESIDES THAT...
EH, IT'S NICE TO BE
ON THE SECOND STEP --
LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY.
WELL, THAT
JUST MADE IT WORTHWHILE.
IT'S THE FIRST TIME
I'VE SEEN THAT.
THAT'S GOOD STUFF.
Narrator: 8:22 A.M.
TERRY HAS NOW CLIMBED
FOR OVER SEVEN HOURS.
HE'S CLEARED THE SECOND STEP
BUT FACES TWO MORE HOURS
TO REACH THE SUMMIT.
[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]
WHILE TERRY AND
GUIDE BILL CATCH THEIR BREATH,
2,300 FEET BELOW,
MARK, TIM, AND GERARD
PREPARE TO LEAVE CAMP 3.
TODAY'S CLIMB LEADS THEM
INTO THE DEATH ZONE.
THEY'RE FOLLOWING TERRY'S
FOOTSTEPS UP TO CAMP 4.
AFTER A FEW HOURS OF SLEEP,
THEY'LL HEAD FOR THE SUMMIT.
KEEPING EXTREMITIES WARM
IS CRITICAL BEFORE SETTING OFF.
COLD FINGERS AND TOES
IN THE MORNING
CAN BE FROSTBITTEN BY NIGHT.
TIM SACRIFICED HOURS OF SLEEP
JUST TO KEEP WARM.
HE'S TIRED, AND IT'S
NOT A GOOD PLACE TO BE
FACING
A GRUELING SUMMIT ATTEMPT.
FOR MARK, THE CHALLENGES
OF BEING A DOUBLE AMPUTEE
ON EVEREST
ARE MAKING THEMSELVES
PAINFULLY FELT.
TERRY IS FINALLY
MAKING GOOD PROGRESS.
Man: [ CHUCKLES ]
Narrator: HE CAN ALMOST TASTE
THE SUMMIT,
AND HIS MOOD LIGHTENS.
Man: [ CHUCKLES ]
Narrator: TERRY NOW TAKES ON THE
LAST OBSTACLE TO HIS DREAM --
AN OUTCROPPING
CALLED THE DIHEDRAL.
[ INDISTINCT TALKING
OVER RADIO ]
Russell: THEY'RE NOT FAR
FROM THE SUMMIT NOW,
SO IN THE NEXT FEW MINUTES,
WE'LL...
PROBABLY BE HEARING --
[ RADIO CHATTER ]
YES, SOME PEOPLE
ON THE SUMMIT.
YEAH, TERRY, SO YOU'RE
JUST WAITING TO BE ABLE
TO HAVE A TURN
TO GET ON THE TOP?
YOU'RE JUST A FEW METERS BELOW,
IS THAT RIGHT?
Narrator:
TERRY NOW MOVES UP
THE MOST BIZARRE WAITING LINE
ON THE PLANET,
AND THERE'S NOWHERE ELSE
ON EARTH HE'D RATHER BE.
BUSY? YEAH.
BUSY DAY UP HERE
AT THE SUMMIT.
JUST EXTREMELY THANKFUL
THAT THE MOUNTAIN HAS DECIDED
TO LET US UP TODAY,
AND IT'S JUST
A BEAUTIFUL VIEW.
THERE'S
HARDLY ANY WIND TODAY,
AND I'M JUST SUPER HAPPY
TO BE ABLE TO DO THIS
FOR THOSE WHO'VE BEEN CLIMBING
FOR ME IN SPIRIT --
MY DAD,
WHO DIED JUST A LITTLE
UNDER A COUPLE YEARS AGO,
MY GRANDFATHER, WHO PASSED AWAY
JUST A COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO,
AND MY FRIEND CHARLIE...
...WHO TRAGICALLY DIED
IN A CLIMBING ACCIDENT
WHILE I WAS
HERE ON THIS EXPEDITION.
WELCOME TO HEAVEN, GUYS.
THIS IS FOR YOU.
HOPE I CAN MAKE YOU PROUD
WHEN I GET BACK TO EARTH.
[ CHUCKLES ]
...YOU'VE BEEN GOING
FOR JUST UNDER 600 MINUTES,
SO YOU DON'T HAVE TOO MUCH
OXYGEN LEFT ON THE WAY BACK.
SO I RECKON YOU SHOULD SPEND
NO MORE THAN HALF AN HOUR
ON THE SUMMIT, OVER.
Narrator: THESE DAYS,
REACHING THE SUMMIT OF EVEREST
IS MORE LIKE ATTENDING
A MOUNTAINEERING RALLY.
EACH CLIMBER WAITS IN LINE
FOR A TURN AT THE TOP.
AND FOR EACH SECOND THEY WAIT,
THERE'S A LITTLE LESS OXYGEN
LEFT FOR THE DESCENT.
I WAS JUST A LITTLE WORRIED
THAT WE'D GET TOO FAR BEHIND
WITH THAT TRAFFIC.
BUT I GOT
TONS OF ENERGY TO SPARE.
I GOT NO PROBLEM
GETTING DOWN TODAY.
Narrator: TERRY'S OLD TEAMMATES,
MOGENS AND BRETT,
LISTEN IN AT ADVANCED BASE CAMP
WITH MIXED EMOTIONS.
MOGENS AND I ARE STANDING HERE,
WATCHING OUR BUDDIES UP THERE.
THAT'S OUR TEAM
THAT'S SUMMITING TODAY,
AND IT'S TOUGH
NOT BEING UP THERE WITH THEM.
IT'S NOT JEALOUSY.
I JUST WANT
TO BE UP THERE REALLY BAD.
Man:
YES, SUH-SUH-SUH-SIR!
YEAH, YEAH!
WHOO-HOO!
WHOO!
WHOO-HOO!
Narrator:
TERRY AND BILL FINALLY TAKE
THEIR TURN ON TOP OF THE WORLD.
BEEN A FULL DAY --
TRAFFIC JAMS, SNOW, COLD.
NICE TO HAVE SOME SUN ON TOP.
UNFORTUNATELY,
IT'S A LITTLE SHORT.
RUSS NEEDS US TO GO
'CAUSE WE'RE GETTING LOW ON O's.
THEY'VE HAD
600 MINUTES OF OXYGEN.
IT'S BEEN
10 HOURS SINCE THEY LEFT.
THEY NEED TO GET DOWN QUICKLY,
SO I'M NOT GONNA GIVE THEM
MUCH TIME ON THE SUMMIT.
THIS ONE'S FOR MY POPS.
GOOD TO BE UP HERE
WITH YOU, DAD.
GLAD WE FINALLY MADE IT.
[ CHUCKLES ]
AND AS I ALWAYS SAY, GUYS,
REMEMBER YOU'RE ONLY HALFWAY.
YOU'VE GOT
THE HARD PART TO DO NOW.
Narrator:
CONQUERING EVEREST DOESN'T END
WITH A PHOTO AT THE SUMMIT.
80% OF ALL CLIMBING ACCIDENTS
HAPPEN DURING DESCENT.
FOR TERRY,
THE BATTLE IS NOT OVER
UNTIL HE'S
THROUGH THE DEATH ZONE
AND SAFELY IN CAMP.
IT'S TIME
TO GET OUT OF THE DEATH ZONE,
AND IT'S A LONG CLIMB DOWN.
THE EVEREST DREAM IS NOW
A REALITY FOR TERRY O'CONNOR.
HE AND BILL STAND
ON THE HIGHEST POINT ON EARTH.
OVER THE PAST 46 DAYS,
THEY'VE SURVIVED EVERYTHING
EVEREST THREW AT THEM --
ALL FOR A MERE 22 MINUTES
ON THE SUMMIT.
OKAY, SORRY, GUYS.
SHORT TIME, BUT IT'S BEEN
WORTHWHILE UP THERE, I THINK,
AND YOU NEED TO GET GOING.
Narrator:
TERRY DEPARTS THE SUMMIT
AFTER A BRUTAL, 10-HOUR CLIMB.
DURING DESCENT,
HIS ADRENALINE LEVEL FALLS,
AND HIS ENERGY FADES.
[ RADIO CRACKLES ]
TERRY'S CAREER AS
A DOCTOR DEPENDS ON HIS HANDS.
NOW HE CAN BARELY HANG ON
TO THE SAFETY LINE
AT THIS SHEER DROP-OFF.
AS HE STRUGGLES DOWN
TO THE SECOND STEP,
THE TRAFFIC JAM
IS THICKER THAN EVER.
Russell:
I'M GETTING WORRIED NOW
BECAUSE THIS IS
WHEN THE END OF THE DAY COMES,
AND WE'VE STILL GOT PEOPLE UP
HIGH, AND THEY NEED TO GET DOWN.
Narrator: FAR BELOW, MARK, TIM,
AND TEAM 2 CAN SEE THE CROWD
BUILDING AT THE TOP
OF THE SECOND STEP.
IT SHOULD ONLY TAKE 10 MINUTES
A PERSON -- AT THE MAXIMUM.
I FEEL REALLY SORRY
FOR BILL AND THE GUYS UP THERE,
HAVING TO STAND THERE AND WAIT
AND WAIT AND WAIT AND WAIT --
GETTING COLD,
GETTING LOW ON O's.
YOU KNOW,
TIME IS TICKING BY.
Russell: RIGHT NOW,
IT'S THE WORST PART OF THE DAY.
WE'VE HAD A BIG DELAY
AT THE TOP OF THE SECOND STEP.
I AM WORRIED ABOUT THESE GUYS --
THEM RUNNING OUT OF OXYGEN.
Narrator: TERRY IS STOPPED
ONCE AGAIN AT THE SECOND STEP.
RUSSELL'S OUT OF OPTIONS.
CALLING A RETREAT DURING TERRY'S
ASCENT WAS ALWAYS POSSIBLE,
BUT BLOCKED ON THE WAY DOWN,
RUSSELL IS HELPLESS.
TERRY AND HIS TEAM
ARE STUCK, WITH NO PLACE TO GO,
AND THEIR OXYGEN
IS HEADED FOR EMPTY.
NEXT TIME...
BIG TIM MEDVETZ,
DOUBLE AMPUTEE MARK INGLIS,
AND LEBANESE ADVENTURER
MAX CHAYA
FOLLOW IN TERRY'S FOOTSTEPS
AND MAKE THEIR SUMMIT BID.
IT'S GOING UP!
Narrator: FIVE MILES HIGH,
IN THE DEATH ZONE,
THE TEAM IS IN DESPERATE DANGER
WHEN TEMPERATURES PLUMMET
TO MINUS 40,
AND DETERMINATION
TURNS TO MUTINY...
COME BACK DOWN NOW.
I DON'T WANT YOU TO DIE.
Narrator:
...AS SUMMIT FEVER TAKES HOLD.
I GOT PLENTY OF OXYGEN
TO GET ME UP AND BACK.
TURN AROUND RIGHT NOW
[BLEEP] DAMN IT.