Departures (2008–…): Season 3, Episode 10 - Rwanda - full transcript

Rwanda is a country emerging from its darkest years of poaching and the 1994 genocide. Scott and Justin travel with locals to learn more about how Rwanda is managing today. They explore the recovery of the animal population - from...

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(reel whirring)

(upbeat music)

- We've landed in a country

that's recently emerged
from it's darkest years.

What we've read and what we've heard

is that this place has
completely flipped itself around,

and it's changed quite a
bit since the genocide.

Every step of this world trip

has taken us further away from home

to places we never expected to see.

Two years ago, I would
never have understood

how much this journey would change me.

This is why we travel.

This is the reason that we're out here.

(gentle music)

Just landed in Rwanda,
the airport of Kigali.

- Took a two hour flight
from Ethiopia to get here,

but this is a completely different
part of Africa obviously,

and a lot's happened in 15 years

to turn this country around.

- Last one.

- We're just packing up the truck.

We got ourselves a land cruiser.

- We're gonna start here
from Kigali and head east.

We're gonna cover the east
portion of Rwanda first.

We've got Steve here, an
up-and-coming director in Rwanda,

and, you know, that's
a whole new thing here.

Film is coming really popular.

- This year it was the
fifth film festival.

And it's growing.

- Is this the first time you'll
be in front of the camera?

- Yeah. Yeah.

It's my, it's my first time

and it's kind of scary.
- You sound nervous.

Don't be nervous.

It's okay, it's okay.

It's all right, all right.

(indistinct chattering)

- Luckily, Rwanda is a small
country and quite accessible.

Easy to get around to
the east, west, north,

so we hope to get a really good picture

of the entire country.

- We knew coming to Rwanda

that we weren't gonna be able to avoid

the subject of the genocide
that happened 15 years ago.

We figured there's no
easy way to talk about it,

there's no easy way to even explain it,

but we figured the best way
was to get into it right away.

(gentle music)

Steve had a pretty good place in mind.

There are many memorials
all over the country.

So many people died on
this particular site.

This is Ntarama.

This was a church at one point.

This is where people came
to to try to get refuge,

to hopefully find peace.

- They came here having in
mind that it was a refuge,

and they got killed.

Only eight people survived.

- Eight out of about 5,000 people?

- [Steve] Yeah.

- It's just, it's a lot.

You know, and even when you
start looking at these skulls

you can see like where they've
been bashed in with machetes.

- These are just some artifacts,

possessions down here on the bottom

that people would have brought with them,

whatever they could manage
to flee their homes with.

- She's called Angelique.

Yes, and she's one of the eight survivors

who survived from what
happened in this church.

- Was it luck?

Was it something that happened here

that allowed her to survive
when so many others died?

(speaking foreign language)

- It's God, it's just a miracle.

She was under bodies.

They were putting bodies on her.

So they thought that she was dead.

- Eight hours she had to hide?

- Yeah.

- Like witness that too.

How is it that she's still in this area?

- It's a way of staying with her children

that got killed here.

- Does she have any anger?

- One of the killers in the
in the militia group here

came to ask for forgiveness to her,

and she gave him forgiveness.

- For her to have that forgiveness

is one of the most amazing things

I've ever come across
in my whole entire life.

It's just unbelievable

that she has that much love in her heart

to forgive something like that.

Walking around this church,
you start seeing the images,

and it's not easy seeing this stuff,

because you try to
figure out what happened.

What's the draw to come here?

Why are we here?

Why are we at this country?

It blows your mind that
these things happen,

and the stories keep coming out.

It's just a lot of bad energy, you know?

You just come in here,
it's just bad energy.

- Close to a million people
were massacred in this country,

and in the time that had happened,

within three months, that
nearly a million people

were wiped off the face of the planet,

killing babies, killing mothers.

There are so many fingers
that could be pointed,

and there could be so much hate and anger.

It's easier for them to
say yes, this happened,

let's try to learn some lessons from it,

let's pick up the pieces and move on.

- I just don't wanna be in here.

- I wasn't too sure what
to expect coming here,

as far as talking with people,

and understanding what
they've gone through.

To see people forgive,

and be able to open their heart back up,

they're still moving forward.

There's an interesting site here,

there's Rusumo Falls, it's
a beautiful sight to see,

but it has a dark recent history.

You said at this point,
people would be standing here,

and you could see the bodies and stuff

coming down the river,

and they end up pooling here, right?

- Yeah, yeah.

Yeah, this place was full of bodies here.

Everywhere here.

You could see like in those places,

in those kinds of corners, I mean,

piles of dead bodies,

like being stopped by the push of water.

- Like, what was your
part during the genocide?

Like, what were you
doing, like, at that time?

- Personally, it's a long story,

I don't know where I can start,

and I don't know,

I mean, you know, in life,

sometimes there are
things that just happen,

and you don't have a
spiritual explanation,

I mean, it just happened.

- Yeah.
- Yeah.

More than 80% of the population

lost someone in their
family, so it's hard to tell.

It's not the normal story you can tell.

It's not something you
can just sit somewhere,

and start telling someone else.


- I'm trying to understand
what happened here.

In some ways, I just, I feel bad,

'cause I don't want to bring up the past.

We're in a small town of Yakarumbi,

and what makes this really important,

and which makes it stand out

than most of the little towns out here

is they actually make art here.

But with the way they make it,

they actually used like cow dung.

- I'm interested to see
this if, I mean, right now,

this is kind of a cooperative,
so it's community run.

- Yeah, it's nice.

It's hard to believe that
it's it's out of cows' shit.

- I think it'd be kind
of cool to get a piece,

if it's pretty decent looking,
or doesn't smell too bad.

- That's the whole thing.
- Who knows?

It could be shitty, it could be good.

So I've heard you're a bit of an artist,

aren't you, Mr. Cow?

Cute guy, look how big his nose is.

I gotta pet his nose, he
looks like a reindeer.

Do you wanna get your face painted?

Let me go paint your face.

You can name this one Blacky,
you're Blacky, hi, Blacky.

(cow huffs) Whoa.

- This is where the real
artists are, yeah, exactly.


- Yes, you are.


Hello, is this your shop?

Can we have a look at some stuff?

It's Sunday, were you at church?

- How are you?

(cow mooing)

- Wow, this is pretty nice.

It's great workmanship.


I had to, had to smell it.

- Long, long time ago,

somebody came up with the
idea of differentiating

their house from all the rest,

as the style of building
homes around this area

was pretty similar.

And so they came up with artwork like this

that they could put on the wall

that would decorate their home,

and make it stand out from
some of the rest of the homes.

The women here, a lot of them
are widows from the genocide,

losing the family's sole breadwinner,

they've now been able to call
on their talent for this art.

This is the workshop where it all happens.

- You can see that this one
hasn't been painted yet.

You can just see the actual dung there.

And anyway, it's in the
process of drying right now.

You can see all like the fibers,

the grass, or whatever the cow is eating.

- This is a way of keeping
the culture of the country.

So it's a way of bringing them together,

and helping them to talk.

And when they get
something out of the work

of what they are doing,

it helps them to have a better life.

Now she's saying that every widow

in this area has a house out of this.

- [Man] Wow.

- Yeah.

Going back to the roots, going
back to a community approach

is what's saving the
community in the first place.

Steve said that a lot's changed,

since what happened
here over 15 years ago.

(car honking)
(yelling excitedly)

(upbeat instrumental music)

- We're back in Kigali,

we had to come back from the
East side of the country.

One of Steve's business partners,

and really good friends, Ray, or Raymond,

he's going to pick up from here.

Steve has to get back to work.

- Raymond.

- He never has to hear this or see this.

What can you tell us about him?

- Okay.

He loves camera, everything
that goes with camera.

- Oh, this is what we're in for,

for the next half of the trip then.

- He makes sure he's
around experienced people,

which is very good, I appreciate that.

- What's up, what's up?

- This is the crazy guy
I was talking about.

- So guys, let's have fun, cheers.

(horn honking)


- Look at him, he's so
crazy, he needs to eat.

(screaming excitedly)

(serene instrumental music)

- We are on Lake Kivu right now.

And this lake split between
the Congo and Rwanda.

I have a feeling you can't swim.

'Cause you're the only
one with a life jacket on.


- I can swim, but not in this lake.

- There's actually a pretty
neat island they have,

it's called Napoleon Island.

On that Island, is a big swarm of bats,

and they get pretty big in size.

- Are you afraid of bats?

- I hear they eat eyes,

so I might blackout my eyes, you know?


(upbeat instrumental music)

- Two really kind of interesting
things about this island

is that there's these giant bats here,

and then also, there's
these giant millipedes.

This thing is disgusting.

(foreign language)

Does he live on the Island?

- He lives on the island,
you can get cows here.

- He lives here?

- Yeah, he lives here, he's got cows.

- Wow, got cows?
- Yeah.

You know, what they do is they
just get them on the water,

and they swim. (laughing)

- Come on.

- Yeah.
- They don't.

- Cows don't swim.

- Like four kilometers.

- Four kilometers?

The cows travel four
kilometers by swimming?

- Interesting island.

- Oh my Lord, he's just coming right up.

He's actually going to show
us how these cows swim.

So they're all going to jump in the water.

Don't they need bathing suits?

A couple laps around
Napoleon Island, let's go.

He's swimming, he's swimming!


Have you ever seen this before?

- No.

This is so cool.

Look at him coming back.

(upbeat instrumental music)

- Swimming Cow Island.

We're walking around
the side of the island,

Samson, he moved here five years ago,

and he's the only guy who lives here,

the only person who lives on this island,

him, his cows, and his goats.

- That's where he stays.

(cow mooing)

- Samson has made a shelter for himself.

This is where he stays at night.

And then here, quite
similar to his shelter,

is a shelter here, and
another one, as well,

for the young cows.

You think it'd be quiet and peaceful here,

but it isn't really,

'cause they're just
constantly making noise.

(cow mooing)



(cows mooing)

I don't know how much sleep
I would get if I lived here.

(intense instrumental music)

- [Raymond] Way over there

is where we're gonna find the bats.

So we're going to walk
across to that side,

and then we'll find it.

Just trying to find a way
to get around the back.

- We're getting really,
really close to these bats.

They're like in clusters
everywhere in the trees,

but there's this whole bunch
right here in this bush,

so we're just going to be
as quiet as we possibly can

to get close to 'em,

because if we make too much noise,

it'll scare a couple, and
then they'll just take off.

You got something right there.

- That's beautiful.

(bats squealing)

- Their faces look like
little chihuahua dogs.

(peaceful instrumental music)

- No, I'm scared,

'cause you always see them in movies,

like things that pluck out
peoples' eyes, you know?

(peaceful instrumental music)

- They could've come up with

so many other names than
Napoleon Island for this,

like Millipede Island,
Swimming Cow Island.

- Good to call it Swimming Cow Island,

'cause that's the only picture
that I still have in my head.

(upbeat instrumental music)

- Looking good.

Today, we are riding
gigantic wooden scooters,

because that's what you do

when you reach the
Northern parts of Rwanda.

- The wooden bikes, dude, bikes.

- Show me the pedals.

- We'll bike gang.
- Show me the pedals.

- If he's got an attitude like that,

I don't want him part of the gang.

Oh, you've got lights
on yours, look at you.

- I have yellow lights.
- Headlights.

That's the only reason these were invented

in the first place, is so
that they could have a method

to haul around heavy stuff.

- They invented these bikes
from I think after '94,

that's what I hear.

- After '94?
- Yeah.

- Well, we need one more bike for Scott.

- Yeah.

- Let's take these hogs for a
ride (imitating motorcycle).

(kids laughing)

- This thing, I don't know how

they push it with weight up the hill.

- We're going to give you a heart attack.

- Man, you guys, I don't
know what you want from me.

- We've gotta have a gang name.

- [Man] Wood Warriors, or something.

- The Wood Warriors,
yes, that's a cool one.

When it gets done-

- [Man] We'll follow you.

- You'll follow me.

- [Man] Is this for your knee?

- [Raymond] For your knee, yeah.

- [Man] Okay, so you
just do this, kick that.

- So who is going first?

- [Man] We'll go at the same time.

- If we're a gang, we ride together.

Ride hard, carve hard.

Carve it out of wood.

- Okay, I'm leaving, and we go!

Oh no!

(screaming excitedly)

- Why is it I feel so cool and dangerous?

Oh God, I'm gonna crash!

- Ride hard, carve hard, do it with wood.

- I'm gonna give somebody a cool 50 Franks

to give my bike a cool coat of varnish.

Wooden Warriors, all the
sex, drugs, and sandpaper.

- Yay, yay.

This, thumbs, that, and then go like that.

I'll just do it.

Did you yay, yay?

- Yay, yay, yay!

- Yay, yay!

Yay, yay!

(imitating bird noise)


Good stuff, good stuff.

Thanks for the bikes, that was awesome.

- Wooden Warrior, Wooden
Warrior number two,

Wooden Warrior number three.

Everybody has a number.

(upbeat instrumental music)

- The scary thing is you
can smell this banana beer.

- Yeah, but we're tough, we're bad.

- We're the Wooden Warriors.
- The Wooden Warriors.

And we're gonna drink
anything, except maybe this.

- I think this country alone
has been very, very colorful.

It's been very lots of interesting people.

Everyone's really, birds!

Interesting birds.

- All right, come in, come in.

- I think these guys are
getting nicely toasted in here.

- It reeks, you can smell the
banana beer, like oh, man.

- Yeah, he's making them, he's
gonna make you banana beer.

Okay, that's for you, man.


Yay, yay!


- Wooden Warriors, man, Wooden Warriors.

- Wooden Warriors, just take a sip, man.

- We ride together, we drink together.

- It smells like a salad dressing

that's gone horribly,
horribly out of date.

- Okay, cheers, guys, cheers.

(bottles clinking)

- Oh, let's party!


- There's no sugar.
- Clearly.

Clearly, there's no sugar in that.

- There's no sugar in it.

How many hours are you gonna spend-

- To banana beer!

- Yes, to banana beer.

- Now, let's take a sip,
one, two, Wooden Warriors,

we just say "Wooden
Warriors", one, two, three,

Wooden Warriors!
- Wooden Warriors.

(upbeat instrumental music)

- They're not used to
seeing people coming here to

drink this kind of,
like, mzungus coming here

to drink this kind of beer.

- Oh, okay, I was gonna say,

they're not used to seeing people?

Come on.

- Have we explained what mzungus are?

'Cause we've been using
that term a little bit here.

- Tell us what mzungus are.
- Tell us

what mzunugus are.

- Mzungu means a white person.

- [Man] A white person.
- Yeah.

- So, they're not used to seeing mzungus

coming here to drink the banana beer.

So this is their first time
to see this kind of thing.

- Mzungus!


(kids laughing)

Where is Raymond?

Look at behind you.

We finally found Ray, he's
got something else to show us,

something about a fireplace, or something.

- That guy officially drew a line.

He's like the kid,

maybe he's been
babysitting all these kids.

- You see how they do it,

how they melt the steel?

Look at that.

- That's ridiculous.

- So, they've got like a homemade bellows

out of like a goat skin, I guess, right?

- [Raymond] Yeah, goat skin.

- [Man] Dual bellows.

- Now, this is the original one,

this is what he's trying
to make similar to this.

- Oh, wow!

From two pieces, like a piece of rebar.

- [Raymond] Yeah, something like that.

- [Man] And this looks like
an old thing off a carjack.

- [Raymond] Yeah.

- It's incredible, like the lengths

that people will go to to make
their own tools, you know,

you don't have to buy it,
you can make your own.

- This is great.

(metal clanking)

(upbeat instrumental music)

- Yeah, it's all about the rhythm.

My left arm's starting to
slow down a little bit.

Right arm's stronger.

(kids chattering)

- I think I'm going to take
this and keep it as a souvenir.

I'll keep it in my house.

- Through the weeks that
we've been here in Rwanda,

we really haven't seen
any kind of evidence

of the pre-colonial history of Rwanda.

In fact, we really
haven't seen much evidence

of history before 1994.

(drums beating)

Now that's a welcome!

(drums beating)

(speaking foreign language)


- At first, I'm saying,
that's a hell of a welcome,

and then I'm like, jeez, is it a welcome?

Everyone's screaming, and
like, running with spears.

- Justin, nice to meet you.

- Yeah, nice to meet you.

- Scott.
- Yes.

- This is our culture
village, (indistinct),

is this village you see now,

and this is how (foreign
language) come here,

and this is how (foreign language) people

used to give welcome to their guests.

- So it is a welcome.

- Yeah.

- (indistinct) Who needs
coffee when you got these guys?


- I'm gonna be a king, man.

- That's right.

- Man, I have to take off my shoes.

I'm not a Wooden Warrior anymore.

- He's not a Wooden Warrior?

Oh man, he's left the gang.

He's dressed up as the king right now,

and then he's going to
welcome us in traditional way.

Right now, the rule is you can't go past

this little cement area here.

- I am a king today.

I'm gonna be mean.

I don't like mzungus in my palace.


No mzungus here, please remember that.

- I don't know if I'm comfortable

with all this power going to his head.

- Kneel on here.

(chanting in foreign language)

- King Raymond.


You have to sit down, not kneel down.

- Well, King, what brought us here today

is some disturbing news

that one of our gang members
from the Wooden Warriors

has disbanded and it's
really concerning us,

because we can't ride with just two.

- Any advice for us?

What do you think we should do?

How do we treat this individual?

- If you respect the King,
you will live longer here.



- Thank you, my king.
- Thank you, my king.

(chanting in foreign language)

(upbeat instrumental music)

- This is the medicine branch
for people who get married,

a girl and boy, and
they want to make love.

Boy comes to you in power,

it's better just to give him these leaves,

and after, he becomes very, very powerful,

and women start crying (imitating crying).

- Take it back with you
for your girlfriends.


- So, Edmund, how did this all start?

I mean, how did the idea come up?

How did you get involved?

- Where (foreign language)
comes from is first,

I worked in the national
park for four years,

working with the (indistinct).

And while I was working there,

I saw a lot of challenges,
especially with poaching.

So we were having local
people, who are very poor,

going to kill them to earn a living.

So you still had people around the park

who are willing to do
anything just to survive.

Setting now, shaming, bringing poachers,

you put your tools down,

and you come and find something to do.

- He used to be a poacher,

and out of the group here that you have,

he was probably poaching
for the most years.

How has this community, this
new lifestyle changed for him?

(speaking foreign language)

- He says that before,
they didn't know anything,

outside the poaching and killing wildlife.

So that was their livelihood.

But now, they were also able to see

that the animals
populations are going down.

So now when they come outside,

they realize that what
they are doing was wrong.

So he feels happy for what he's doing now

rather than killing, like he did before.

- The price of this is the same price

that a poacher would get
to catch real gorilla.

Look, it's a little mama gorilla,
and a little baby gorilla,

and this little girl.

Hello, everybody.


(drums beating)


(chanting in foreign language)


(speaking foreign language)

- Oh my God!

(speaking foreign language)

Sing it, tell me how you feel!

(peaceful instrumental music)

We are kind of gearing up for this hike.

There's about 25 people
sitting here watching me, so.

Anything you do here, people
are just so mesmerized by it.

Make a little money for tuition.

- No comment.

We're just picking up
some supplies for the day.

Just things to keep us going,
water, food, things like that.

- The only thing I can tell you guys,

you're really, really lucky.

'Cause a lot of people really,

book months, and months, and months away

to come and see the gorillas.

But you have been able
to get to these gorillas

in just the rush of time.

♪ Raining, raining, raining ♪

You're gonna get soaked.

(peaceful instrumental music)

- Having come to Rwanda,

everyone knows that it's
renowned for the gorillas,

and that's a big reason
why most people come here.

We've seen that there's a
hell of a lot more to it

than just gorillas.

We've gone as far as the
car is gonna take us,

from here, we go on foot,

and I've layered up as much as I can,

a lot of waterproof clothing.

As we start hiking, it may
start to get really warm,

and start to strip stuff off if we can.

- I'm kind of stripping
my pack down a little bit,

these gorillas will be
curious on what you have.

- So you're staying behind?

You've been through
this way too many times

to to warrant going one more time, right?

- Man, I've been coming up
here so many times, since 2003.

So I don't need to go again.

- There's obviously no set place

where these gorillas are, I mean,

they're trying their best based on where

they were last spotted.

- We got a really a beautiful landscape

we're actually walking through.

And right now, it's all a
farmer fields and stuff,

but we have a little bit of a crew here,

we have a guy with a gun to protect us,

it's kind of our insurance plan,

hopefully we don't need to use him.

- We just walked into one of the most

magnificent bamboo
forests I've ever seen it.

- If it wasn't for this
makeshift path we have,

it would be almost impossible

to maneuver through this forest.

We know that they've
spotted the Sousa family,

but they won't tell us how far it is.

We really have no bearing as
to whether we're halfway there,

three-quarters of the way there,

one 10th of the way there.

There's only 700,

in the area of 700 left
in the entire world.

- This is probably the same
path the gorillas travel on,

so it's kind of cool.

Every once in a while, I'll see something,

like some of the gorilla dung
that they've left behind.

- They're close, within
a hundred meters close.

We can't see them yet,

but the guides are telling
us that they're there.

At this point, we've got to drop our bags,

just so that it's not too much temptation,

I guess, for gorillas to be interested in.

Sometimes the young ones,
especially, can come close,

and pull at clothes, and be
annoying, like some people can.

- Jeez, holy shit.

I just saw one go by.

This is unreal, it's unreal
that they're so calm,

and I'm right here seeing him.

- He still just has a stare,

and a build that could
scare the hell out of ya.

This is the first gorilla
of my life that I've seen.

- So fluffy.

Knowing that these gorillas
were bigger than me,

way stronger than me,
I was kind of nervous,

I wasn't sure what to expect.

I looked at them, I knew
everything was okay,

you lose all that fear,
you lose all that anxiety,

you just look at them as distant
cousins or family members.

- It's hard to find words at this point,

I'm struggling to describe this,

and what it kind of
feels like, the serenity,

you know, how calm they are,

and how calm that makes
me, being this close.

Another one of those
things I never thought

I'd do in my lifetime.

- The fact that these animals
are more valuable alive

than they are dead is a
huge movement forward.

Luckily, Rwanda has rebounded,

and found a way to better itself,

and learn from its mistakes.

- Coming to Rwanda,

I wasn't too sure on what to expect,

spending time here was a
way of trying to understand

what this country went through,

and what it's doing to move on.

When you lose a million people, gone,

within about three months.

(somber instrumental music)

You said it was really important for us

to come here and see something.

- Yeah, I wanted you to come and see

how the country is
trying all ways possible

to solve the problems that happened

during the time of the genocide.

- Why do you think working
together, and this unity,

why do you think that's worked so well?

- On a local level, with
the people who were there,

and the people solving their
own troubles at this time.

- It's an incredible process

that's happening right before our eyes.

What's happening right here,

there are a number of already accused men,

who have been convicted,

and they're now going
through an appeal process.

(speaking foreign language)

- Somewhere he mentioned that
he was also being hunted down,

because they thought he was guilty,

and when the (indistinct) came down,

he also said that he went to see

where the (indistinct) was killed,

and his name is (indistinct),

and the people of (indistinct),

but I cannot say, he
just went there to see.

So, it's always back and
forth, back and forth.

- It's basically a
matter of someone's word

versus somebody else's,

but in this case, these people
have already been convicted

with the word of at least 10 eyewitnesses.

- So many people felt the
wrath of what these people did,

and now we're sitting here in like,

this little back, this
little garden almost,

and just kind of sitting here,

and just looking at these guys.

And when you look at them,
it's kind of intimidating,

you know, it's eerie,
it's got a weird feeling.

- [Scott] A huge part of this process

is getting information, and
trying to connect the dots

of how this whole horrible
situation came to be,

because it didn't just happen overnight.

Getting that information
is what's going to

help the families and the victims,

and in some cases, the survivors,

to realize who did what,
how this thing started,

and how we can all prevent anything

like this from happening again.

And a lot of stories that
still need to be told,

and all the other citizens of Rwanda

who have a story to tell.

- What this country has gone
through, it's difficult,

and they found a way to move on,

they found a way to deal with
what they had gone through.

(speaking foreign language)

♪ Don't worry about me ♪

♪ Don't worry about me ♪

- Been on the road for how many days?

- (laughing) We've been on
the road for three years, man.

- My kids need me all the time.

- The road is where you lay your head,

that's what I've learned.

- [Raymond] You don't
have strings like me.

I do have strings.

- Oh, we have strings.

Hopefully, we do learn from Rwanda,

we learn from what happened here,

and see that the most obvious
solution is the best one,

it may not be the easiest.

Forgive and move on.

We are leaving the
warmth of Africa behind.

Greenland is gonna prove a very
difficult adventure for us.

Perfect time to learn how to survive

on our own in the arctic.

♪ Don't worry about me ♪

♪ Don't worry about me ♪

♪ Don't worry about me ♪