Wildest India (2012–…): Season 1, Episode 3 - The Himalayas: Surviving the Summits - full transcript

(humming)

(energetic violin music)

- [Voiceover] The Himalayas,

the world's tallest mountain range.

As earth meets the sky
along this hostile terrain.

Powerful winds, sub-zero temperatures,

and a lack of oxygen oppose
virtually all forms of life.

But creatures have somehow conquered these

cloud-piercing peaks,

and more recently people have also taken

on the world's toughest terrain.



Although, this enormous natural barrier

shields and nurtures India's
fertile lower plains,

the pressure to survive at higher climbs

fuels competition.

Pushing all who live here to the limit.

These are the Himalayas

where only the toughest
of creatures survive.

(dramatic orchestral music)

(mellow orchestral music)

The Himalayas run west to east across

northern India

forming an arc 2,500 kilometers long.

Outside Asia, no peak
reaches above 7,000 meters,

but along the Himalayan
range over 100 mountains



exceed this height

by at least 200 meters,

and counting.

At first sight, the
Himalayas appear like any

other snow-covered barren land,

but this immense geological feature

somehow supports one of the largest,

and most diverse collections
of creatures on the planet.

While these rugged highlands offer little

direct refuge to humans,

in the shadow below over a billion people

in India rely on the
mountains for survival.

As the seasons come and go,

the mystery as to how these mountains

fuel such a vast array of life

soon becomes clear.

100 million years ago,

the Indian Island Continent
started drifting north

at a rate of over 16 centimeters a year

on one of the fastest moving
tectonic plates in the world.

Eventually, the floating
mass slammed into Asia,

and slid beneath the stationary continent.

The crumpling and uplifting
of the lands above

created enormous earthquakes,

and ultimately gave
birth to the magnificent

mountain range that is still rising today.

Despite being the world's
tallest mountains,

the Himalayas are surprisingly
one of the youngest

ranges on the planet.

Significant growth has taken place in just

the last few hundred thousand years.

And they currently have the highest rate

of uplift in the world.

Rising by five millimeters every year.

The next million years could see these

already cloud-piercing
peaks rise a further

five kilometers.

At 5,000 meters above sea level,

among the most treacherous and untamed

mountains in the world,

certain highly-adapted species have made

this desolate, cold desert their home.

Blue sheep, also know as bharal,

resemble goats rather
than their wooly namesake.

Living in small groups of around 20,

their active throughout the day.

Winter food is so scarce,

searching for hidden roots is a part

of the daily routine,

but the occasional stump
of dried up summer grass

still provides a welcome bonus.

Despite their excellent camouflage,

and sure-footed ability,

bharals still fall victim to predators.

Young lambs are particularly vulnerable.

Especially, when forced to break cover

in search of a much needed drink.

But aerial hunters aren't the main threat

along these snow covered plains.

Another predator prowls the peaks.

And there's no limit to the
size of this creature's prey.

(suspenseful music)

Stalking from above,

the element of surprise is all part

of the snow leopard's
preferred method of capture.

Like many of the big cats,

the snow leopard is a
powerful ambush hunter.

But like all mountain goats,

these ibex have highly tuned senses.

Their eyes lock on to the impending danger

before taking evasive action.

Despite having large
rock-gripping padded feet,

and a long balance-assisting tail,

this stalker stands
little chance of catching

one of the most agile
creatures on the planet,

unless it can avoid being spotted.

But the snow leopard rarely goes hungry,

it has a secret weapon.

While most mountain goats become blind

to the night,

the snow leopard's
excellent nocturnal vision

kicks in.

This advantage explains why the majority

of kills take place
closer to dawn and dusk.

(dramatic orchestral music)

(mellow orchestral music)

Himalayan snow leopards rarely venture

higher than 5,500 meters,

and it appears this
oxygen-depleted altitude

is the limit for another mammal

that also struggles to
survive in the mountains

of India's most northern region,

Ladakh.

(mellow orchestral music)

(bells jingling)

(singing)

Following a six-hour trek

from the Himalayas higher plains,

the Changpa tribe finally reach their

temporary winter base.

These nomadic herders can't survive

the deathly winter cold
above 5,000 meters.

So, instead, travel over
10 kilometers to reach

the lower altitude plains.

Even here at 4,000 meters,

in a blink of the sun,

temperatures can suddenly plummet

from plus five to minus
30 degrees Celsius.

Setting up camp by one
of the previous season's

dry stone corrals is
top of the to do list,

before the bone-chilling
night air creeps in.

As the early morning sun
takes the ambient air

above freezing,

baby goats that spent
the night under the warm

cover of canvas are returned to the herd.

For centuries, nomads like
61 year old Stansing Somo,

have been herding the
goats whose delicate wool

supplies the cashmere shawl industry.

Newborn kids guarantee the future supply

of raw wool known as pashm.

So, they receive special care,

and are always first to be tended to.

A constantly smoking
stove is the center point

of nomadic life,

alongside a decorated alter
used for daily worship.

(bells jingling)

(chanting)

With their origins in neighboring Tibet,

the Changpa are devout
followers of Tibetan Buddhism.

They believe the world is divided into

three distinct layers,

the upper tier being the home of the gods,

the lower the domain of
the underworld spirits,

and sandwiched in the middle,

is the layer shared by people and animals.

Believing that their livestock
are a gift from the gods,

each morning incense
burned at the tent's alter

is taken outside, and
offered to their animals.

The number of goats, sheep,
and yak a family owns

defines wealth.

The most well off can possess
over a thousand animals.

With trees unable to grow in
this high altitude climate,

firewood is conveniently
replaced by another

renewable source.

While his mother and father remain at camp

tackling domestic duties,

18 year old Topstan heads off for the day

in search of grazing to satisfy his herd

of 100 hungry mouths.

Boys start shepherding with their fathers

at the age of eight,

and when confident,

head off into the hills on their own.

Although sheep and yak fibers also provide

a source of income,

it's the indigenous Tibetan,
or pashmina, mountain goats

that are most valued.

The harsh climate of the Ladakh plateau

forces the goats to grow an extra layer

of downy fiber beneath their upper coat

producing some of the
finest and most valuable

wool available today.

Back in the 19th century,

the ever-scheming East India Company

realized the value of such fibers,

and were quick to coerce the Ladakhi kings

to side with the Empire.

But the so-called Pashmina
Wars between the regions

various rulers date back over 400 years.

(whistles)

Although, the lower grazing
grounds aren't covered

by snow like the higher plains,

their short, dried grasses
provide a very limited

vastly spread out resource.

Topstan and his herd have no option

but to cover over 10 kilometers each day

in search of edible pasture.

It's an arduous nine-hour roundtrip.

But the Changpa aren't
the only ones forced

to journey across this unforgiving land

in order to survive.

High above the plateau, bar-headed geese

head south over the Himalayas

to the warmer winter feeding grounds

of northern India.

(geese honking)

But traveling over 1500
kilometers in a single day,

isn't this bird's only claim to fame.

It chooses to fly at an
altitude few other creatures

could barely imagine,

and that includes man.

As this bird cruises even
higher than a jumbo jet.

(rhythmic violin music)

Soaring at 10,000 meters,

bar-headed geese have even been spotted

flying over Everest,

the tallest mountain in the world.

Although broader than average wings

create a large uplifting
surface to weight ratio,

this species doesn't
just glide with the wind.

Part of its success is down
to being a powerful flapper.

Under their own power,

bar-headed geese can fly
over 80 kilometers an hour

with a tailwind this speed
can easily be doubled.

(bold orchestral music)

At minus 35 degrees Celsius,

ice build up on their wings would normally

be an issue for most birds,

but the bar-head's relentless
flapping over the mountains

produces excess body heat

which, in turn, acts as deicing mechanism.

The atmosphere up here
contains just a quarter

of the oxygen found at sea level,

but unlike other goose species,

bar-headed geese have a greater number

of blood capillaries
servicing their wing muscles.

This evolutionary trait
means the limited oxygen

absorbed is utilized
much more efficiently.

(bold orchestral music)

Since their creation,
the Himalayas have shaped

the cultures of Southern Asia.

Many peaks are seen as sacred,

and religions, such as Buddhism,

have a strong physical presence
in the remotest of areas.

Prayer flags flapping in the wind

break the silence across the
numerous mountain passes.

For centuries, Buddhist
pilgrims have draped these

pennants across valleys, and
places of spiritual practice,

for the wind to carry
their written prayers

across the landscape.

Although the flags are
said to bring happiness

and prosperity to the flag planter,

it's also believed they
spread goodwill and compassion

to all beings throughout
the pervading space.

More permanent monuments
to the Buddhist faith

also reveal the magnitude
of religion throughout

the region.

Evoking the shape of the seated Buddha,

monuments such as these have been central

to Buddhist worship for over 2,000 years.

Known as stupas, they take the same form

as the prototype created
by the religion's founder

back in the 6th Century B.C.

The main dome represents
the sacred mountains

linking heaven and earth

while crowning the
structure is a single spike

holding the three jewels
denoting the Buddha,

the law, and the community of monks.

Perched high above the valleys,

isolated monastic retreats
provide a permanent home

for holy devotees.

Also known as gompas,

most Himalayan monasteries
appear locked in time,

having undergone little change
over the past 400 years.

Daily life at Stakna Gompa
starts early in the morning.

The spinning of prayer wheels

is believed to accumulate wisdom,

and positive karma.

It also has the same
effect as orally reciting

the mantras that adorn the cylinders.

Along with daily prayer routines,

and services to the community,

religious study is the main
theme of monastic life.

It takes at least 18 years
for newly ordained monks

to fully complete their scholarship.

During which they retreat
for hours upon hours

to meditate and reflect on
meanings and implications

of Buddhist philosophy.

Only a handful of talented monks

end up leading a scholarly life,

and advance to religious fulfillment.

Many find themselves
performing more secular roles,

such as craftsman, builders, and cooks.

(mellow music and singing)

Traditionally, the youngest
son from each family

is sent to join the local monastery,

but for one Changpa boy back in Ladakh

this wasn't an option.

With no other siblings
to help tend the herd,

it's down to Topstan to
maintain the family income.

And the end of another
nine-hour food trek,

it's all hands on deck,

as each animal is given a
couple of handfuls of barley

to supplement their
reduced winter grazing.

(goats bleating)

Finally, the day is done,

and the herd huddles together inside

the stone corral.

Alone, they'd stand
little chance of surviving

the sub-zero nighttime temperature.

But cold isn't the only killer

roaming the valley.

Nahmgow, a nearby neighbor, brings news

of a growing problem facing the entire

Changpa community.

(speaking in Changskhat)

Last night, another one
of his goats was taken.

In total, over 40 animals
have been attacked

and killed this winter.

And it appears they're
dealing with a number

of assassins.

(speaking in Changskhat)

As the Changpa retreat to lower climbs

to survive the winter,

the snow leopards follow,

and it seems the entire plateau
could now be surrounded.

Stansing proposes the standard solution,

and as night creeps in,

it's apparent that Topstan,
being the youngest,

has once again drawn the short straw.

(wind blowing)

(fire crackling)

Swapping the warmth of the family tent

for the freezing night air,

is a frequent chore for Topstan.

But a human presence is the best way

to protect the herd
from predatory attacks.

(suspenseful orchestral music)

Morning comes

and it's soon apparent
they've had a visitor.

Drag marks offer a clear
clue to which direction

the assailant headed.

(suspenseful orchestral music)

Snow leopards usually drag their prey

to a safe location before eating.

But this goat is still in tact,

meaning one thing,

the perpetrator can't be too far away.

Despite their formidable reputation,

snow leopards pose little
direct threat to people.

Unlike most of their big cat relatives,

these highland hunters
have never been known

to attack a human.

The biggest danger at this altitude

is still the cold.

(wind blowing)

At this time of year,

the plateau's once fast-flowing rivers

become just another frozen feature.

Even the region's largest ecosystems,

the high altitude lakes, take a break from

their summer wetland roles,

as ice claims every last drop of water.

Lying 4,500 meters above sea level,

Tsomoriri isn't only
one of the highest lakes

in the world,

at 28 kilometers long by eight wide,

it's also the largest body of water

in the Indian Himalayas.

Surrounded by snowcapped peaks,

the lake is mainly topped
up by summer melt water.

The region's rainfall is very little

with an annual count of
just 100 millimeters.

With no outlet,

Tsomoriri's already brackish water

is becoming increasingly
saline every year.

Despite this slightly salty composition,

the lake still remains completely frozen

for around four months of the year.

But less than 25 kilometers away

it's a very different story.

In the eastern part of
Ladakh's Puga Valley,

steam rising from the freezing land

is a stark reminder that
these Himalayan mountains

are no sleeping giants.

Boiling hot streams
point to deep fractures

in the rock beneath.

A continuous reminder of
the tectonic collision

that began 50 million years ago,

and that's still taking place today.

The circulation of water throughout these

underground faults has created over

100 thermal springs.

Superheated water from reservoirs over

a kilometer down,

rises to the surface at a
temperature of 84 degrees,

the reduced boiling
point at this particular

altitude.

(somber orchestral music)

Just as Ladakh's hot springs
provide a constant reminder

of the Himalayas creation,

400 kilometers further south

lies India's greatest
monument to the forces

behind this magnificent range.

At a cloud caressing 7,800 meters,

Nanda Devi is India's tallest mountain.

Standing in a vast amphitheater
over 100 kilometers

in circumference,

and no less than 6,000 meters high,

Nanda Devi shields an unlikely Eden

in the heart of the
Himalayas' hostile zone.

Surrounded by a circle of 600 peaks,

this secret valley has its
own unique microclimate.

It's the end of March,

and while the rest of the
region continues to suffer

from the crippling cold,

spring has already arrived
in this fertile gorge.

Although known as the Valley of Flowers,

it's still too early
for the basin's colorful

petaled plants to emerge.

But the melting of snow
cover is cue for another

spectacle to make an appearance.

Not all Asiatic black bears hibernate,

but here in the colder
northern parts of the world

they're forced to remain in their dens for

around four months of the year.

Despite being similar in size
to its American relative,

a distinctive cream colored
crescent at the center

of its chest gives this Himalayan resident

its unique identity.

Thicker fur, up to 15 centimeters long

around its neck and face is another

feature separating the two species.

(lighthearted orchestral music)

Armed with five centimeter
long curved claws,

and canine teeth designed
for tearing meat,

surprisingly this predator
is primarily a vegetarian.

Berries, grasses, and
roots make up the majority

of its diet,

along with the occasional insect.

With the fruits of autumn a long way off,

the hunter relies on its
most valuable weapon,

an incredibly acute sense of smell.

This nose is capable of detecting honey

from over five kilometers away.

Bug and grubs hiding up
to a meter below ground

are also at risk of becoming part

of this bear's breakfast.

Beetles choosing the
sanctuary of a rotten log

stand little chance against such a highly

equipped opponent.

(lighthearted orchestral music)

While the Valley of
Flowers offers sanctuary

to one of the most endangered
bears in the world,

Ladakh's thermal springs
welcomes the early arrival

of one of the planet's
most endangered birds.

Of the 15 species of crane in the world,

the black-necked crane
is the only one living

at such high altitude.

After overwintering in
large flocks in the warmer

valleys of China and Tibet,

they separate into breeding pairs,

and head north to the wetlands and lakes

of the high Himalayan plateau.

But even at this time of year,

night temperatures can suddenly plummet.

Fortunately, this particular
bird doesn't just have

a head for heights,

it can survive temperatures
down to minus 30.

At just under a meter and half in height,

the black-necked crane is
also one of the world's

tallest birds.

The plumage of both sexes
is virtually identical,

but the male is bigger in size.

Although traditionally
thought to pair forever,

recent studies have since shown cranes

do change partners throughout their life

which often stretches
over several decades.

Breeding territories
are zealously protected,

and it appears this couple
already have company.

(dramatic drum music)

The pair close in on the intruder.

Once within range, it's time to unleash

their defensive weapon.

(loud cawing)

This loud territorial duet,
known as the unison call,

is not only used to thwart aggression,

it's also a vital part
of reinforcing bonds

between the pair.

The calling also helps
synchronize their sexual cycle,

and often accompanies one
of nature's most spectacular

courtship displays.

(lively violin music)

To the lone male,

the message is clear,

and his quest for a mate continues.

As springtime temperatures rise,

frozen rivers begin to thaw and resume

their role of channeling
the April snow melt.

Although, just shallow
streams as they leave

the Himalayan plateau,

on their journey towards the sea they

miraculously merge to
form some of the greatest

and most important life-fueling
rivers on the planet.

The mighty river Ganges, the
Indus, and the Brahmaputra

all originate from tiny
tributaries high up

in these mountains.

On their combined journey
of around 10,000 kilometers,

these waterways support the
lives of over a billion people,

as well as one of the planet's
most diverse ecosystems.

Over 1500 kilometers east of its source,

the Brahmaputra River
finally reaches the Himalayan

foothills of Manas.

Throughout this semi-tropical terrain,

temperatures rarely fall below 15 degrees,

making it a haven for wildlife.

Along with a multitude of reptiles,

and colorful birds,

over 50 species of mammal can be found

throughout these gentle Himalayan slopes

including India's most iconic creatures.

The region's slightly
higher temperate forests

are also home to one of the
world's most elusive animals.

Red pandas are about the
same size as a domestic cat,

and live a solitary life.

Despite once being
thought of as a raccoon,

and then a bear,

they've since been
allocated their own unique

family label closely related to weasels.

Like their giant black
and white namesakes,

red pandas are unable
to digest the cellulose

found in most plants,

so their diet is almost
entirely made up of bamboo.

Greenery their stomachs
can just about cope with.

Although they spend up to
13 hours of the day eating,

the spindly plants
provide little nutrition.

Conserving energy is crucial
to this creature's survival.

After marking sections of territory,

it's back to the canopy for
some important pampering.

With fur covering its entire body,

this cat-like cleaning
is one activity that

cannot be rushed.

But if there's one thing
that can entice this

Himalayan tree hugger down from his perch,

it's a potential mate.

Male territories overlap
that of several females.

And although the mating
season is just about over,

this suitor is on a mission.

(lighthearted orchestral music)

Despite the male's persistence,

his efforts are futile.

Female red pandas are fertile for just one

24-hour window per year,

usually at the beginning of spring.

If this doesn't coincide
with encountering a male,

then she won't be receptive,

and will not conceive.

This male will just
have to hope his visitor

passes by a little earlier next year.

Closer to the river, live
a group of tree-climbing

mammals that rarely face the problem

of locating a mate.

Gathered in tightly knit social groups

of around a dozen individuals,

golden langurs give birth all year round.

Found only here, and the
neighboring foothills

of Bhutan,

they're one of India's
most endangered primates.

Unlike the red panda,

langurs have a chambered stomach

which helps breakdown cellulose.

Mature leaves and fresh bugs make up

the majority of their diet.

Enlarged salivary glands
also assist their digestion.

Regardless of the vast food supply,

competition over feeding still exists.

(dramatic orchestral music)

Minor skirmishes can
quickly get out of hand.

But golden langurs have a way of leaping

to their own defense.

Large hind limbs provide
powerful propulsion,

while long padded fingers
allow for effective

hooking and grabbing.

Langurs are one of the
few primates to have

all but lost their thumbs.

An evolutionary adaptation
to prevent the digit

from being a hinderance while swinging

through trees.

Although a long tail enhances balance,

it also requires a little more effort when

it comes to cleaning.

Grooming isn't just a solo affair.

Rummaging through a friend's fur

is the langur's way of
reinforcing social bonds,

as well as relieving stress.

Golden langurs seldom leave the trees

even to drink.

Most of their water comes from dew,

and rain-soaked leaves.

This tactic is adopted
by some of the foothills

smaller animals, too.

Such as Himalayan squirrels that find

sanctuary in the foothills
flowering rhododendron forests.

More than 90% of the
world's rhododendron trees

originate from this very region.

Sunbirds add more color to the mix,

as they feed on insects attracted
to the springtime blossom.

The Himalayan foothill
trees provide safe refuge

to many creatures,

but there's one predator
that relies on their

elevated branches for its hunting success.

Relatively short legs, and broad paws,

make the clouded leopard an
expert at climbing trees.

It's exceptionally long tail
provides excellent balance.

Although it spends most
of the day resting,

this medium-sized stocky
cat is no slumbering softy.

The clouded leopard is
formidable predator,

and relative to its size,

it has the longest canine
teeth of any living carnivore.

As dusk draws in,

the nocturnal hunter
spots a potential victim.

Rotatable rear ankle joints
allow for a controlled descent,

head first.

(suspenseful orchestral music)

Blind by night, jungle
fowl stand little chance

against the leopard,

and its sharp nocturnal vision.

In the high Himalayan plateau of Ladakh,

Buddhist monks officially
announce the arrival of spring.

(horns blowing)

Defrosted streams feed
the thawed out grasslands,

and the high altitude
lakes prepare themselves

for the return of their
summertime residents.

With temperatures topping around
20 degrees above freezing,

Tsomoriri's waters are in full melt.

(geese honking)

The high flying bar-headed geese begin

arriving from their winter
base in India's lower plains

over 1500 kilometers away.

Tsomoriri is the only place in India where

bar-headed geese come to breed.

Because there are few predators
at this high altitude,

the lake provides the
perfect summer residence

for a whole variety of water birds.

Shelducks, grebes, and gulls

also rely on Tsomoriri
for raising their young.

Making this Himalayan lake one of India's

most important wetland ecosystems.

(wind blowing)

With summer fast approaching,

the snow leopards follow the mountain's

retreating snowline.

The threat to the Changpa
tribe's livestock is over,

and they can now begin
harvesting their most

valued resource.

(singing)

Through this ancient
song, Namgal asks the goat

for good pashm, and to be still

as he gently combs out the
soft fibers from underneath.

(singing)

With 200 goats to comb,
Namgal hopes to collect

over 150 kilograms of pashmina wool,

a raw value of just over $6,000.

The warmer weather
allows for other age-old

traditional activities.

Skills passed down through
hundreds of generations.

(gentle orchestral music)

With the herds new arrivals fully weened,

Stansing draws on another
of the tribes age-old

domestic techniques.

Using fat from the milk,

and a goatskin bag,

the Changpa have been producing butter

this way for thousands of years.

(gentle orchestral music)

This rhythmic shaking breaks down

the butter fat membranes
allowing the particles

to clump together.

The entire churning process takes around

half an hour to complete.

Bags made from sheep intestine preserves

the ball shape,

and keeps it clean.

This way, the butter can be stored

for several months.

(gentle orchestral music)

With the higher altitude plains

again offering grazing pasture,

the Changpa prepare to
leave their winter camp.

These lower pastures remain
strictly out of bounds

during summer

in order to guarantee
a vital winter reserve.

(bells jingling)

(goats bleating)

(dramatic orchestral music)

With Nanda Devi's Valley of Flowers

in full summer bloom,

the Himalayan mountain range appears set

to release its greatest
gift to the world below.

As India's warm, moist
summer winds head north

towards mainland Asia,

they suddenly hit the Himalayas' gigantic

natural barrier.

(winds blowing)

Forced upwards,

these vast vapor clouds condense

(lightning crackles)

dumping billions of liters
of rain on the parched

ground below.

These short-lived summer monsoons provide

over 70% of India's annual rainfall.

Over 200 million farmers rely on this rain

to grow their crops, and in turn,

feed a nation of over a billion people.

(dramatic orchestral music)

If it weren't for the Himalayas,

India would effectively
be a drought-ridden

giant desert.

The Himalayas are a hostile wilderness

that challenge all who
venture their snowy slopes,

but these mammoth mountains also have

a positive effect on climate.

Supporting the lives of an
endless number of creatures,

including one of the largest
populations of people

on the planet.

But the battle to survive on
the world's toughest mountains

continues.

(dramatic orchestral music)

(dramatic orchestral music)