Simon Reeve's South America (2022-…): Season 1, Episode 1 - Venezuela to French Guiana - full transcript

Simon travels through Venezuela, Guyana, Suriname, and French Guiana.

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Oh, come on.

I'm in a remote corner of Venezuela.

I'm travelling the
length of the Americas.

The two continents that together
form more than a quarter of

Earth's land surface.

And this, right here,

is where I am starting my journey
down through South America.

Completely epic South America!

It's a journey of more than
4,000 miles through some of

the world's greatest landscapes.

Encountering spectacular wildlife.



The cat is on the move.

From its iconic cities to
the Andes mountains,

it's a continent
of dramatic extremes.

Down!

Along the way,
I meet the inspiring...

Yolanda!

..and the surprising people...

These guys are Mennonites.

..who make South America
so extraordinary.

There's Wi-Fi here.

Nowhere else for miles
around, apparently.

We do our own thing.

We're happy here, man.

HE GROANS



HE CHUCKLES

I am not a morning person.

But I can't wait to start today.

Er...

Where's my shoes?

I was beginning my journey down
through South America,

in Venezuela, on Mount Roraima,

a place of myth and wonder.

This is...

The only fair description is a
lost world, it really is.

It is unlike anywhere I can
remember being on planet Earth.

I joined a small team of biologists
and explorers who come here to study

this incredible ecosystem
above the clouds.

So, this enormous landmass that
we're on is called a tepui,

and it is one of the oldest
land masses on this planet.

More than a billion years old.

Billon, with a B!

And to put that in context,

Mount Everest is only about
60 million years old.

That's a newcomer on the scene.

And these tepui are spectacular
in so many different ways.

Mountains are generally formed
by great tectonic plates crashing

together and then forcing upwards.

The tepui weren't formed like that.

They're formed by sediment
gathering on ancient seabeds

and gradually rising up.

And then you end up,
many, many years later -

oh, my goodness -

with these islands in the sky.

We are around two miles
above sea level here.

And I'm a bit short of breath.

But that gifts you...
Oh, my goodness.

..the most incredible views!

Almost cut off from
the outside world

by vertical cliffs on all sides,

Mount Roraima has long
fed and fired the imagination.

Arthur Conan Doyle wrote a book
in the early 1900s

called The Lost World,

with the idea that these tepui
were still home to dinosaurs

and Pterodactyls.

And coming here, you can completely
imagine that is the case.

Life on Roraima is very different
from the world below.

Up to 50% of the plants
and animals up here

are found nowhere else on Earth.

Life has been forced to evolve
or adapt to survive

the challenging terrain and climate.

Biologist Michelle Castellanos

studies the unique species
of Venezuela's tepuis.

What a place. Do you like it?

Yeah, I like it. More than like.

It really feels like somewhere
where you need to be careful

with every step,
just in case you wipe out a plant

previously unknown to science.

Oh, have you found something?
It's very tiny.

Let me go here. What is?

Here, next to the rock.
Oh, my goodness!

It is a tiny, tiny frog.

Yeah, it is, like,
smaller than your thumb.

THEY LAUGH

A weird species.
A weird species, yeah.

And only found here in the tepuis.

Is it going to jump if I...
No, actually...

..put my finger too close?

..they don't jump,
they walk very slow.

They don't swim, and they
don't have tadpoles.

Is it really a frog, then?

No, like, this is a toad,
actually, it's not a frog.

It's a toad the size
of my thumbnail!

It's curious that each tepui
has its own species.

So... So, now you're able
to pick it up? Mm-hm.

And this one,
from this tepui, has the belly.

Look at that little yellow belly.

So, this is almost - up here,
it's a little bit like

the Galapagos islands... Yeah.

..in that it's been cut off from
the rest of the planet for ages,

and life has developed and
evolved in different ways.

Yeah, exactly.

That's one of our concerns, that
they are here before the dinosaurs.

But now, with people coming here,

it may bring a fungus that
is spreading all around

the world, and is killing frogs.

And that's why I'm using gloves.

Because of the frog-killing fungus,
which also affects toads, as well?

Yeah. Right.

As this, this is only here,

if the fungus come here
to the tepui,

maybe this species can disappear.

So, they evolved before us? Mm-hm.

They've survived much
longer than us,

and they are now,
in a very short space of time,

completely threatened by us?
Yeah, exactly.

Around the world, amphibian
populations are under attack

from a powerful fungus that's
already caused the extinction

of scores of species.

Insolation here should protect
the Roraima Toad -

but it's feared backpackers could
unwittingly bring the fugus up here,

along with other unwelcome deposits.

Look at this.

This is toilet paper. Mm-hm.

What the hell is that doing here?

Tourists.

It's not only disgusting - these are
ways fungus and evasive seeds

could arrive in this fragile world,

on walking boots, in our poo.

What have you seen now?

It's an invasive plant.

An invasive plant? Yeah.

It's very interesting, actually,
cos if you look at it,

it is slightly suffocating
and smothering...

Around the other one.
..the other plants.

It doesn't belong to here.

Also, with the global warming,

it's made seeds and grain up here,

because they find they have
a good temperature.

Because of the warming climate,

plants that could never
have survived up here

just a few years ago
are now thriving.

It was a stark reminder
that we need to be responsible

and protect the environment.

Up here, that can call for
some unusual measures.

So, to try and keep this place
pristine and free of any seeds

I might unwittingly introduce
into the environment,

I've been given a sealable potty.

I'm off to do my business.

If only there was a rock
I could hide behind.

Up here, among the clouds,
Roraima felt a world away from

the planet and problems below.

There should be few places
on Earth more remote and isolated

than a nearly two-billion-year-old
rock two miles above sea level.

But I was discovering that
our reach and impact is everywhere.

Even life on the tepuis is affected
by the march of the humans.

The mountain is at the northern end
of one of the most important

geological features on
the whole continent.

It's called the Guiana Shield,

an ancient slab of the Earth's crust

with its own distinct geology
and climate.

On my journey, I was travelling
through the Guiana Shield.

From where I was in Venezuela,
through Guiana...

..Suriname...

..French Guiana, and then
ultimately into Brazil.

Coming down from the lost world
brought me back to Earth

with a bit of a bump.

This is Venezuela, after all -
perhaps the most troubled country

in the whole of South America.

It's said to have experienced
the single largest economic collapse

outside of war in decades.

Venezuela has been in,
is it fair to say, chaos?

Chaos, yeah. Chaos and turmoil?

And anarchy, too. Anarchy?

And Venezuela, more than anywhere
else in this hemisphere,

should have the wealth to be
safe and stable and secure.

It is a country blessed -

or cursed - with immense oil wealth.

And, of course, that oil wealth
should have led to benefits

in health and education
for the population.

Venezuela has the biggest oil
reserves of any country on Earth.

But years of incompetence,
corruption, crime, and also

American sanctions have helped
push much of the country

to desperate poverty.

Ah, that's interesting,
look at this.

It's abandoned - is it abandoned,
this petrol station here? No, no.

It's a working petrol station
without petrol.

Without any fuel? Any fuel, yeah.

This is the border.

Just on the right here?
This is the border.

That marks the border? Yeah.

But this is now very definitely
crossing into Brazil.

I was beginning my
South American journey just as Covid

was about to become a global threat,

but before a single case of
the virus had been

detected on this continent.

However, for years, long before
the Covid pandemic hit hard,

Venezuelans were fleeing
their country from crisis,

poverty, hunger, even starvation.

So, this is a reception centre
run by UNHCR,

the United Nations High
Commission for Refugees.

The UN's refugee agency.

All right, Raphael.

Hi, Raphael, Simon Reeve.
Nice to meet you. Nice to see you.

Will you show us around a bit?
Of course. Please, let's go.

Raphael Levy was heading
the UN's response to the migrant

and refugee crisis at this
border crossing.

Raphael, how many people are here?

Now, we have approximately
500-600 people

in the shelter at this moment.

And during the night, when people
getting their documents

go down here to sleep,

then we will reach 1,000.

We have never witnessed anything
in the scale of what we see now.

This is the largest
refugee and migrant crisis

in the history of Latin America.

Wow!

It's one of the world's
least-known tragedies.

More than six million Venezuelans,

over a fifth of
its entire population,

are thought to have
fled the country.

Venezuela's indigenous people
have been hit particularly hard.

Where have you come from, and why?

What's going on over here?
This is the...

Can we have a look?
Of course, of course.

The people are being checked here
and screened, and then

they go in there for a jab or two?

Or even five. Really?
Sometimes, yes.

For the children who have
never been vaccinated,

it may get up to five
shots in one day.

I suppose it speaks not just
of what you're doing here,

but it tells us a lot about
the situation in Venezuela -

if children are coming here
across the border, who have

never been vaccinated,

that most fundamental of things that
a state provides for its people...

Yeah, then Brazilian Government
and the United Nations are trying

to support in this way.

Oh, look, there's a littler
getting a jab right now.

Aww!

Awww!
THEY LAUGH

What happened, guys?

You're smiling -
it was a bit more painful for you.

Have you ever had a jab
like that before?

No. No.

I don't think he's going
to want to have one again.

Is it something you had thought
about for a long time?

Was it a difficult decision?

What have you left behind?

Thank you very much for
talking with us.

We wish you...

We wish you all
the luck in the world.

Its very emotional
to hear that, of course.

I mean, who hearing that
cannot imagine themselves

in those people's shoes?

What would we do?
What would you do?

What would I do?

HE SIGHS

You'd do what's best for your kids.

And sometimes
that can involve leaving.

This was just before
the start of the Covid pandemic.

Across South America,
borders would soon close.

But still, tens of thousands of
Venezuelans kept leaving,

crossing frontiers in the dead
of night and filtering out

across the continent
in search of safety, a job

and a life for their children -
as I discover later in my journey.

There's no roads
to where we're going next,

so we're going to use wings.

I was heading to
a remote area of Guyana,

the next country on this
part of my travels.

From up here, I could see just
what makes the Guiana Shield

ecosystem so special.

Its home to what remains
the most unspoilt area of tropical

rainforest in the world,

and a stunning array
of biodiversity.

That is the scene for surely
the world's biggest shampoo advert.

Almost a fifth of the world's
tropical rainforest is

in the Guiana Shield,

along with a staggering 20% of
the world's fresh water.

This is some of the most pristine
rainforest left on the planet.

And it's completely mesmerising.

Like a tightly-woven green carpet.

I was heading deep into the heart
of the Guiana Shield.

Ooh...straight out into
tropical heat.

Well, look at this.

Guyana is the only English-speaking
country in South America.

It was a British colony
until independence in the 1970s.

Permission to come aboard, Captain?

Permission granted? Yeah.

Guyana has a population the size
of Leeds living in a country

the size of Great Britain,

sharing just 500 miles
of proper roads

and almost endless waterways.

So, we are now on the river that
separates Venezuela on this side

and Guyana on that side.

We're in such a remote part
of South America here -

and in such a remote part
of planet Earth.

The border here is contested,

but there were no authorities
around to enforce

any kind of frontier controls.

The locals don't worry quite
as much about the border.

And the desperate situation
in Venezuela means they are

coming to this river in quite
large numbers to desperately

pan and mine for gold.

The Guiana Shield region holds
enormous deposits of gold

in its riverbeds
and beneath its forests.

THEY CHEER

Here we are, this is the settlement
that we're aiming for.

Now, we're right out in
the Wild West here.

So, hopefully,
our welcome will be warm.

Ooh...

OK, sir, hurry up.
Thank you, Captain.

THEY LAUGH

Oh...

So...

Oh, my goodness.

So, this is Eteringbang.

Eteringbang doesn't really
show up on maps.

There's no mayor and
no real signs of the state.

It sprung up to service
local gold mining -

some of it illegal -

and trade and smuggling from across
the river border with Venezuela -

also mostly illegal.

Hiya.

The local store sells everything
from tinned tuna, satellite phones

and welding equipment,
through to generators and Marmite -

in my view, perhaps one of the
better legacies of colonial rule.

God, you have got a bit
of everything!

Yes, we also have a pharmacy.

This was the first time
I'd been to a chemist that was

also doubling as a bar.

How is your day going?

My day is fine.

You know, I'm a cool dude.
I'm always here... Right, OK.

..at the border,
beautiful sunshine, nice weather.

Are you living on the edge here?

I'm living, I'm just tripping over.

Are you, tripping over the edge?
Yeah. Will you have one?

Er, why not? Thank you very much.

Cheers. Cheers to
Guyana and Venezuela.

The two? Yeah, we are brothers.

All right, well, that's good
to hear. Yeah, yeah, yeah.

To pay for these beers, I've got
to sell a little piece of gold,

you know, that's how we buy
here in the world.

He's just pulled out a tiny
plastic bag. Yeah. No way!

Yeah, this is gold, you know?

This is what we pay -
in metal, man.

There we go. This is 1.1g.

You know when you get a sudden
blinding flash of realisation -

is that why these are saying 0.3?

Yes. Yeah, yeah, yeah. 0.15?

This is half point,
this is less than a point.

Can I can I hold it? Sure.

What you're looking at,
this is called river gold.

Right. This is from the river,
it's not from the land.

How much is that worth,
in US dollars, do you think?

$75. $75.

So, that's about £60 worth of gold.

What, so you pay in gold
and you get it back in paper? Yeah.

So, are you a miner yourself,
or are you a trader, or what?

I buy - sometimes I buy diamonds,
I buy gold,

I go and I work in the mines also.

We sell our gold and buy more food.

We don't even...
We're happy here, man.

We're in the bush, in the interior.

You know? And we love
this life, man.

I'm pleased to hear it.

Clearly, this is what's meant
by an informal economy.

Gold mining is the biggest game
in town, but it's not the only one.

What's in the boats down here?
Can we just have a look?

Fuel. From where?

That's, er, Venezuela.
This Venezuelan side.

And are you able still
to get fuel here, then?

If people are willing to pay
the price for it.

Oh, I see, so...

..people need fuel here, no doubt,
to work their generators,

to use the machinery
to hunt for gold?

Yeah. This is what we do to survive.

And they're prepared to pay more
for it on this side of the river...

Yes. ..than they are over there?
Yeah.

Legal gold mining in Guyana
has helped to offset the country's

declining income from
sugar production.

But incomes here are still low.

Guyana is one of the poorer
countries in South America -

but that could be about to change.

That could be about
to change spectacularly.

Enormous reserves of oil,
5.5 billion barrels,

have recently been discovered
off Guyana's coast.

It could make Guyana, with a
population of less than a million,

one of the richest
countries on Earth.

But many think that's
hopelessly optimistic.

Thank you, I won't have that.

I'll have some mango
chutney instead.

Ohh!

I sat down with
shopkeeper Shavannah.

Her husband, Garbin,
had strong views I'd also heard

from others far from the
country's capital.

So, I was looking at
the fuel down there,

and I was just thinking how much
change is coming to Guyana.

Are you all going to get rich?

Yes, if we become politicians.

SIMON LAUGHS

You're sceptical.

No, I'm sure if I become
a politician, I will get rich,

I won't be sceptical there.

That's a fact? That's a fact.

But you're sceptical that people
in Guyana will benefit?

Absolutely, there's nothing for
the man in the street,

absolutely no benefit.

So, the... Our politicians
are completely corrupt,

from top to bottom.

You're convinced?
Totally, completely.

The experience of other countries
that have newly acquired oil wealth

do not entirely bode well.

And you only have to look across
the bank to Venezuela to see

what can go spectacularly wrong.

They call it the "resource curse",

where a country is apparently
blessed with an amazing gift,

a treasure - oil wealth,
incredible reserves of gold -

but the money from that is just
snaffled by a leadership,

by corrupt politicians,
kleptomaniac leaders.

And the money doesn't
flow down to the people.

Let's hope that that doesn't
happen here in Guyana.

All right, it's time to leave,
time to head on.

I travelled on to the next country
on my journey through

the Guiana Shield, Suriname.

I've arrived into Suriname,
which I think is generally seen

as a fairly sleepy corner
of South America.

This used to be a Dutch colony.

They still speak Dutch
here in Suriname.

And they have some
impossibly Dutch buildings.

Look at that one over there.

Just like the Brits in
neighbouring Guyana,

the Dutch came to the Guiana Shield
to grow sugar, coffee, and cotton

using African slave labour.

The abuse was industrial
in scale and depraved.

Vast numbers of slaves died,

but thousands managed to escape
deep into the forests and form

their own isolated communities.

The country eventually
became independent in 1975.

Like so many ex-colonies,

it was left with a legacy of
conflict and civil war.

I met up with Ronnie Brunswijk,

a former leader of a group of rebel
fighters who's now a politician,

and a huge figure in Suriname.

He'd agreed to take me
to his base deep in the jungle.

We're going to Bravo Camp.

Ronnie's been an elite paratrooper,

a president's bodyguard,
and a wanted bank robber.

He's now a popular politician

and one of the country's
wealthiest businessmen.

Oh, bloody hell!

Ronnie's flying the plane.

He also owns and sometimes plays
for the biggest football club.

Playing against him is
said to carry risks.

During one match, he was accused
of threatening opposing players

with a handgun -
something he's denied.

Ronnie says his money comes
from owning Suriname's biggest

gold-mining concession.

My concession starts here,
it begins, just begins, and...

..70,000 hectares,
goes like this, round here.

Welcome to Bravo Camp.

Thank you, Ronnie.

Ronnie has his own approach
to political campaigning.

He's once said to have flown a
helicopter over a village

and then showered the
locals with cash.

I suppose that's one way
of getting votes!

He's reputed to have
more than 50 children.

It's definitely an unusual way of
building an electoral base.

All right. Thank you, Ronnie. Yes.

This is... Bravo Camp.

..Bravo Camp? Yes.

So, this is effectively your base...

Yes. ..in the jungle? Yes.

When I come here,
I come like this. Yeah.

When I'm here, so I go in my...

..garimpo.

Garimpo? Garimpo.
Is it going to change? Yes.

So, we're very definitely in
Ronnie's hands here, and...

..very much under his control.

This is his turf and territory.

Since the 1980s,

Ronnie's been a leader of
the long-suffering Maroon people,

the descendants of African slaves.

He led a rebel army called
the Jungle Commandos

during the civil war
that followed independence.

You sit there.
Can I come on there with you?

Yes, you come with me.

You sit there. OK.

After the civil war ended,

Ronnie managed to obtain
a huge land concession

and went into gold mining on
an industrial scale.

So, where are we going?

We're going in the concession,
to the place where the gold is.

Right. So, they mine in one area
and then they move on?

No, we have...about ten sets.

And so, one here, one there,
and one north. Right.

Over an enormous area of what was
once untouched rainforest,

more than 900 people now work
at Ronnie's gold concession.

So, Ronnie, what is this place?

This is one set.

So, this is one of
the forward mining areas? Yes.

This is a, sort of, post-apocalyptic

little hellhole, frankly.

But it is also a fully-functioning
little community, by the look of it.

You've got places where people
are living here.

You've got the washing over there.

This is, I guess,
a restaurant hut of some type.

There's a big shed over there
with chickens in.

Just look around.

A full 360, just to give you

a sense of this gouge and scar

in the jungle, in the Guiana Shield.

The price of gold has increased by
more than 500% since the year 2000.

So, the financial incentives for any
kind of gold mining are staggering.

Illegal gold mining is now thought
to be an even more lucrative

business in South America
than the cocaine trade,

so scenes like this are now
replicated across the Guiana Shield

and into the vast Amazon basin,

as men, women, and children
tear into the earth in the hunt

for the lustrous yellow metal.

Bloody hell.

It's an astonishing scene.

And gold might be shiny -
but here, it ain't bloody pretty.

Do these guys work directly for you,
or are they paying you money

for the right to mine here?

They pay me 10%.

10%? A tenth of what they find.

Of the find, right. Yes.

If they find one kilo,
I have 100 gram.

You know? But if you find good gold,

say, "Aye, this is good,
the high grade is here" -

so then I say, "OK, thank you".

So, then you turn up and take it?

Yes! It's my concession.
SIMON GASPS

And this necklace here -
is this Suriname gold?

Which one? This.

Yes, that is gold from my new camp.

Can we see? Yes, you can see this.

Oh, that's a heavy necklace.

Ronnie, can you tell us,
how have you got rich?

First time I go to do the gold,

I buy one excavator.

One excavator? Yes, one like this.

And the first place we go,

we dig, we make 40 kilo.

40 kilos of gold?

Like this, that's how we start.

After that, we make more kilo,
make more kilo...

You smile at the memory.

..and that's it. Yeah.
That's the beginning of, er,

the money history of Mr Brunswijk.

SIMON LAUGHS

Now, I have to ask,
so the Dutch Government, though,

says you trafficked
cocaine to Europe.

No, I never do that.

Nobody in my... I have a clean hand.
Nobody can tell me that.

Every month, I can find 20 kilos.

And 20 kilos in my forest,
$800,000 US.

Why am I going to do, doing drugs?
20 kilos? Yes!

And I don't interest in that.

I can make clean money.

It's said both sides
in the civil war financed

the conflict with cocaine.

Ronnie Brunswijk denies it all,

but a Dutch court has convicted
him in absentia of running

a cocaine-smuggling ring.

So, just to try and quickly
explain what's going on -

it begins with the guy
in the excavator down there.

He moves great chunks of the rock
over to the guys with

the high-pressure hoses down there,

and they turn that into silty soil
that can be sucked up by the guy

here with the water pump.

So, that - he's sucking it up
that pipe to the top here,

and then it runs down
over this ledge.

The filthy, dirty water runs
down over here,

and the gold that
is hopefully down there,

hopefully for them,
gets trapped on these beds.

And then, all over this place.

It's so tiny, it's like stardust
or something. Fairy dust.

There's another one here,
you see here.

There you are, look, there it is.
Yes.

Gathered and smelted into a kilo,

that fairy dust can
be worth £50,000.

But mercury is often used
in the process.

It can cause huge damage
to workers' health,

pollutes the environment
and kills wildlife.

From there to here,
we make five kilos.

The other one there was
two-and-a-half kilo,

another part. And I think this part,
we're going to make three.

Do you feel that the destruction

of the forest, has it been...?

Can you justify it to yourself?

Every piece of land you destroy is,

you know, it's very painful. Mm.

But you have to have a job.

And we know, er, what we do.

Mm. And we have...to survive.

We're leaving an environment here
that has been completely devastated.

And yet it's not the case that
you can just fill these holes in

and everything will be fine,

because the topsoil often
has been ripped and torn away

and then fundamentally polluted
with toxic chemicals.

So, it's a total disaster...
it's a total disaster zone.

But it's the only work in the area.

So, people do whatever they can,
whatever they have to.

The Dutch might have wanted
Ronnie Brunswijk in jail,

but to many in Suriname,
he's a Robin Hood-type hero.

After I left, they elected him
Vice President of the Country.

Despite the worst efforts of miners,

loggers, gold-diggers
and developers,

Suriname is still
more than 90% forested -

that's the highest rate
in the world -

a stunning achievement.

But annual deforestation has
increased three-fold this century.

Excellent, here we are.

I think that might be Monique.

Monique?

I'd come to meet Monique Pool,
who runs a sanctuary for animals

that have lost their forest to
chainsaws and excavators.

Monique. Simon Reeve,
nice to see you.

Hi, nice to meet you, Simon.

Look at the scale
of what you've got here.

This whole centre is something
you've had to fund

and build in recent years.

Yes, but I had a lot of help.

This is the animal kitchen,
Monique is pointing out,

in this converted
shipping container.

Shall I take one or leave it?
Yeah, you can take one.

From small, almost
accidental beginnings,

Monique has become of the leading
conservationists in the country,

raising thousands of pounds in
donations to protect wildlife,

particularly for one
iconic animal - the sloth.

Who's in here?

This is Renatus. It's an orphan.

Renatus, look at you there.

And this is Stevie. Stevie?

Stevie's a bit bigger,
but also an orphan.

Over the last decade,
Monique has rescued, rehabilitated

and released more than 1,000 sloths.

And this is little Ball.

Is it safe to look up,
or am I going to get wee'd on?

No.
SHE CHUCKLES

They don't like to sit in the tree
from above, when they poop.

They don't poop from on high?
That, I've never seen it.

They come down once every week
to poop and pee.

And they lose, like, a third

of their weight when they do that.

That's a massive poop! Yes.

That'd be like me doing 30kg.

Yes. What a horrific thought!

SHE LAUGHS

It seems to have tickled Monique.
LAUGHTER CONTINUES

The reputation is they're a bit dim.

They're not dim.

They're not dim,
but they're just slow.

And that's because they're so smart
that they conserve their energy,

because the food they eat
is low in nutrition.

And they are, you know, like,
one of the oldest mammals on Earth.

And they're very South American,
I'm very proud of them.

So, what is your plan for Stevie
and the other orphan?

Yeah, the plan for these animals
are they're going to be released,

because they don't belong
in these enclosures.

Our goal is really to let them go.

Living in a country with
the world's highest forest cover

doesn't mean that sloths
are safe here.

So, Monique's had a phone call -
a sloth has been rescued,

it's in bad shape, and she's heading
back into town to have a look at it.

Sloths live in the coastal part
of the Guiana Shield.

Perhaps inevitably,
that's also where the vast majority

of the human population live.

You see that forest fragment there?

Yeah. That would be
the perfect sloth habitat.

If you look at the vines
and everything,

they love to hide under it.

This is good for them.

But now we're out into
shrubby farmland.

Yeah, there will be maybe small
pockets where they can survive

until that last tree gets cut,

and then they don't have
anything left. Right.

Suriname's economy relies
heavily on mining and logging.

Most of its exported timber
ends up in India and China.

So, these are exactly the machines
that do this type of deforestation.

They push the trees.

Oh, I see, so they use
the bucket on the front,

just to knock the trees down?

Yes. This machine is so powerful.

It will clear six-seven hectares
of forest in one day.

In one day?! Yeah.

And with all the animals that are
in it, and the sloths are slowest,

so they're staying behind.

Sloths are also endangered
for another reason -

they're worth a fortune
when sold as exotic pets.

Monique called in local vet Audrey
to look at the injured sloth.

It's a male and he is...
He was very weak then.

So, he was hydrated.

Oh, my goodness. Er, but it was
clear that his eyes are...

..that he may be blind.

So, I'm just going to
take him out here.

Simon, could you hold the pole for
me here? Of course.

I don't think that
he's seeing a whole lot. No.

It looks like he's
at least got an infection.

And his eyes are going
suddenly like that.

Yeah. He sees everything
spinning around. Ah.

It's sort of a
fundamental disorientation?

Yes. Yeah. Shall we check his nails?

Somebody tried to cut it.

So, he may have been,
for a long time, with people.

So, somebody was
keeping him as a pet? Yeah.

Oh, poor thing, he's just...
Head right ducked down. Yeah.

He looks desperate. Yeah.

This is horrible.
I mean, humans did it.

Humans caused him to be
in this state. Mm.

OK. Audrey, do you think
he has a chance?

If we don't get his eyes
to heal, erm...

..no, to return to the wild is not
a good decision for us to take.

So, we have to decide whether we're
going to

keep on treating him for a while,

to see whether there is
an improvement.

So, what are you putting into him?

Antibiotics. Right, Monique? Yeah.

Yeah.

Oh, he is, he's off the ground.

Sloth internet videos drive
demand for them as pets...

Come on, then.

..but they have an
appalling survival rate.

It's thought 80-90% of trafficked
sloths die in captivity.

Still trappers hunt them,
because the international exotic

animal trade is obscenely lucrative.

Worth around £15 billion a year,

it's contributing to
mass extinction.

Well, we wish Sergio
all the very best.

Sergio's injuries were overwhelming.

Sadly, despite the best efforts
of Monique and her vet,

a few days later,
Sergio had to be put to sleep.

I headed on towards what I think is

the weirdest country
in South America.

It's got nuclear weapons,
a rather good line in fine wines,

and the world's
sixth-largest economy.

So, here we are.

We've arrived at the border
with French Guiana.

I was heading to France.

22 Euros?

Euros. Bit weird,
we're paying in euros here.

French Guiana is on the euro.

Look, bottom-left there.

In fact, I'll tell you what - it's
more part of the European Union now

than this island here.

Merci, merci, monsieur!

I crossed the Maroni River that
forms the border between Suriname

and French Guiana.

I've arrived in France.

Unlike the British and the Dutch,

the French never gave up
their South American colony.

This is not an independent nation.

It's literally part of France.

It IS France.

Kourou is its second-biggest town.

Don't judge me, OK?
I was really terrible at school.

Bonjour. Er...

..un croissant et un pain
au chocolat, s'il vous plait.

Ensemble? Ensemble. Voila, voila.

Apart from a rather wonderful
boulangerie,

this town hasn't got
a whole lot going for it.

It's not the most
attractive place, in truth,

it's not the most beautiful
French town.

But the town has grown
and blossomed for one main reason.

This is Europe's spaceport.

Out here in the middle of one
of the world's greatest rainforests

is the launch platform for
rockets sent into space

by the European Space Agency.

Where are we going?

We're going to
the Jupiter Control Room.

Here we go.

So, I'm just going to phone the...

This might be the passenger
we're waiting for.

Yeah, he's getting a call.

PHONE RINGS
Is that Hugh? This is Hugh.

The Director of Operations.
Oui, bonjour.

From here, they launch rockets
and satellites for Europe

and a host of other countries.

Is that Hugh over there?
Was he on the phone?

Yeah, he was on the phone.
That's him, yeah.

He is the Mission Controller?

Is that what you said,
Mission Controller?

Erm, I think his official title
is Launch Range Manager.

J'sais que tu dois partir
un bientot. Salut. Salut.

Hugh, do you speak better English
than I do? Almost certainly.

Good morning.
Good morning, sir, enchante.

You've got the mock-ups
of the rockets here.

Ariane 6 is going to be good,

because we can initiate
the last stage many times.

That means that we can put two or
three satellites at different

positions, so this one is going to
be the best one to do that.

Ariane 6 is the future?

It is our future.
Your future, OK. Our future.

Your ambition, then,
is to be the best launchpad

for sending satellites into
space, presumably?

We are, er, we are always the best.

THEY CHUCKLE

Where are we going?

They're letting us into
the control centre.

In this hall, our mission
is to put satellite into orbit

while answering
our sovereign mission.

Right. That means that we will never
take off if there is any risk.

You're the guy who does
the countdown? Exactly.

As Launch Range Operations Manager,

Hugh oversees an average of
one rocket launch every month.

It's a personal question,
but where are you from?

Are you from here,
or are you from France-France,

or somewhere else?

I would say that I am French.
HE LAUGHS

I am French, but I came here
to do an internship for my school.

You came here?
Yeah, to do my internship.

To be - you were an intern?
Yeah, exactly.

in charge of air-conditioning
system for here.

So... No, come on.

You were an intern
in charge of air conditioning,

and now, you sit in the big seat?

What is the problem?
It is feasible.

It's brilliant!

That's wonderful! Yes, it is.

That gives us all...

A lot of young people out there
hope for the future.

Having a piece of the European Union
sitting so near to the Equator

helps make this the world's
premier launch site for satellites.

My favourite factoid about
this whole base is the fact that,

at launch time, they have to clear
a safety corridor at sea

and in the air, extending out in
an arc almost to the coast

of West Africa, just in case
something goes spectacularly wrong,

and no plane or ship
should be underneath.

Like those of its neighbours,

the jungle in French Guiana is
targeted by drug smugglers,

miners, and poachers.

But here, it's defended by

one of the world's
most famous armed units.

French Guiana is a base for
the French Foreign Legion,

and we're heading out with them.

The Legion was allowing us along
on a heavily-armed operation.

The French Foreign Legion
has an enormous amount

of mystique about it.

The image, I suppose,
is of troubled,

and often haunted men
from everywhere fighting on behalf

of France anywhere.

Well, its 6.30 on a Friday evening,

and we're arriving at
their forward base.

Bonsoir. Bonsoir.

Soldiers from 138 countries
serve in the Legion.

They can apply
for French citizenship after

serving for three years.

Corporal, sir, I was going to ask,
where is everybody from?

He's from Belarus.

Belarus, OK. He's from Nepal,
I'm from Nepal,

and he's from France.

La Reunion. Reunion? Yes.

The jungles of the Guiana Shield
region have been known in the past

by soldiers and prisoners here
as the Green Hell.

Because you've got all this
kit and equipment, an old attachment

of the French Foreign Legion to
look after you, it can be.

Sleeping bag, sleeping bag liner,

inflatable pillow.

Total luxury.

The Legion has been tasked
with tackling an increasing threat

to the whole Guiana Shield.

The scourge of illegal gold mining.

We're up at dawn,

and our journey took us through
an extraordinary landscape.

We're on a lake that was created
by a hydroelectric dam.

So, the dam was built,

and the water levels started to rise
and submerge the trees that...

The dead trees you can
see around us.

It's quite eerily,
spookily beautiful.

Here in French Guiana,

there are thought to be up to
10,000 illegal goldminers.

Mining gold has become a vast
industry across South America,

from the forest of the
Guiana Shield, in the Amazon,

to the Andes Mountains of
Peru and Bolivia.

It can provide jobs and income,

but often at a terrible price
for the environment -

as I've already seen on my journey.

There's also a huge illegal
trade thought to be worth

£7 billion a year globally,

which can involve organised crime,
and even forced labour.

Yet it can still be hard to confirm
where our gold jewellery comes from.

We're trying to find,
you know, a good...

A way through?
Yeah, a way through, yeah.

The areas here are just
slightly ridiculous, in truth,

because the Legion and
the Gendarmes,

they're operating in a region
the size of Ireland

with very few roads.

Very difficult to get into
these heavily-forested areas.

It's really hard, you know,
the water has really gone down, so.

And the goldminers, they have
people, guards, watching.

There are a lot of people
watching, you know,

right through here, and they can
hear the sound, you know?

Yeah. The motor, yeah.
So, it's quite obvious.

So, it's possible
they are watching us now?

Er, if they are, you know, working,
then yes.

So, if there's mining going on...
Yeah, going on.

..they'll be looking out?
Definitely, yes.

You can see there's something now.
OK.

There could be some activity ahead,
but the miners are very careful

to hide any trace of their presence.

I mean, you could hide an army
in the forest here,

and you'd never know. Yeah.

Did you see that there is a...?
Yeah, yeah, yeah, look.

Where canoes have come in.

Do you see that? That's a trace.

That's a trace, that's not ours.

That's a trace there -
that means something is there,

you know, maybe the boat,
they landed here maybe, you know?

And that looks quite fresh,
doesn't it? Yes. That's not ours.

Footsteps over here.
Yeah, that's not ours.

We're going to check out a little
bit further. We're going to go

inside a bit further, you know? All
right.

If there's something going on.
So, what's quite possible is that

the miners have come in on boats,

and been dropped off,

and moved inside the forest here,

and then, the boats have left.

Look at the footsteps -
that's fresh, you know?

That's a fresh footstep.

There's a bag of rubble
with stones on,

potentially gold-bearing.

Hidden here in the hope they can
then come and pick it up.

So, this is a very fresh dig here.

And look, they've built their
own little railway here,

Look!

Look at this one.

Its all from the basic tools.

It's not like they are professional.

It's a mineshaft that goes down,
I would guess, 20-25 metres,

20 metres maybe?

I mean, it's astonishing
they've managed to do this.

The miners had disappeared.

They often work under the
cover of darkness.

So, some precise
GPS coordinates are taken.

We can't go in, because that's
against our law, you know?

We can't go in. We do not have the
rights to go in, the military.

Because mines collapse.

Last year, there had been
an exchange in order,

I don't know if
three people died, you know?

Three military died, you know?

So, that's the simple reason
that we don't go inside, you know?

The Legionnaires are accompanying
Gendarmes who are authorised

to break-up some of the
props above ground.

But they aren't allowed
to simply lob a grenade down

the shaft to destroy the mine.

This is...this is France,
there are rules,

there are regulations,
there's human rights laws.

We've been told that the miners
take their nuggets,

and its very quickly
turned into jewellery.

Not just because
that's easy to transport,

but because, under French law,

if the Gendarmes find somebody
with raw gold,

an illegal miner with raw gold,

they can confiscate that gold.

But if the miner,
even if it's an illegal miner,

has jewellery with them,

that's counted as personal items,
and that can't be confiscated.

So, the miners are able to take
their gold and leave French Guiana.

It's thought more than £400 million
worth of illegally-mined gold

is extracted from
French Guiana each year.

It seems France,
with all its vast resources

and the presence of the Legion,
is doing little better than

its neighbours
in countering the trade.

There are now so many illegal
gold-mining operations across

South America that in some areas
of the highest biodiversity,

they've been a greater cause
of deforestation

than logging and farming.

I do think, when you're up here,

you start to realise the scale

of these supposedly little mines.

Even though this is just
one small operation,

they have ultimately carved
and gouged out a huge area

of the forest here.

And this is replicated hundreds,

perhaps thousands of times across
the south of French Guiana,

and throughout the Guiana Shield.

And the cumulative damage
is astonishing.

All in the hunt for gold.

I'd come to the end of
this first leg of my journey

through South America,
through the Guiana Shield.

This little-known
still relatively unspoilt

part of our planet.

It certainly faces many threats,

but there is still time
to protect it from

the ravages of deforestation.

It is still a vast,
glorious, green wilderness.

Next time...

..in Brazil, I meet
the guardians of the forest...

..and travel on to one of
the greatest cities on Earth.

Welcome to Rio!