Nature (1982–…): Season 29, Episode 1 - Cuba: The Accidental Eden - full transcript

Narrator: 90 MILES FROM FLORIDA
IS A COUNTRY

WHERE THE CLOCKS APPEAR
TO HAVE STOPPED -- CUBA.

Man: IT IS LIKE TURNING BACK
TIME 50 YEARS...

Narrator: FOR DECADES,

WHILE AN ECONOMIC EMBARGO
STUNTED THE COUNTRY'S GROWTH,

CUBA'S WILDLIFE THRIVED.

Man: THE REASONS WHY WE HAVE
A FLOURISHING ISLAND HERE

ARE BOTH IN TERMS OF

LEGITIMATE POLICIES
AND ENFORCEMENT

BY THE CUBAN GOVERNMENT,

AND ALSO AN ACCIDENT OF HISTORY.



Narrator: BUT THIS ISLAND OASIS
HANGS IN A FRAGILE BALANCE.

CONSERVATION ISN'T EASY...
Man: A CUBAN BIOLOGIST DOESN'T
MAKE MORE THAN $25 A MONTH.

Man: WORKING HERE IS INCREDIBLY
DIFFICULT AND OFTEN FRUSTRATING.

THIS EXPEDITION REQUIRES
SIGNATURES FROM

15 DIFFERENT MINISTRIES,
INCLUDING THE ARMY.

Narrator: AND SHOULD CUBA'S
BORDER OPEN TO MORE DEVELOPMENT,

IT COULD DEVASTATE
THIS ACCIDENTAL EDEN.

Narrator: JUST OFF
THE COAST OF MIAMI,

A RESIDENT OF FLORIDA IS SETTING
OFF ON A FORBIDDEN JOURNEY.

A GREEN TURTLE EMBARKS
ON A HOMECOMING VOYAGE.

HER DESTINATION --
THE HEART OF THE CARIBBEAN...

A MYSTERIOUS ISLAND CLOISTERED
FROM THE MODERN WORLD...

CUBA.

HEY!



[ MUSIC PLAYING ]

FOR 50 YEARS

RIGID SOCIALIST POLICIES
AND THE U.S. ECONOMIC EMBARGO

HAVE KEPT CUBA FROZEN IN TIME.

BUT WHILE ITS CITIES CRUMBLED

AND ITS ECONOMY
GROUND TO A HALT,

ONE PART OF THE COUNTRY
HAS THRIVED...

ITS WILDLIFE.

WITH THOUSANDS OF MILES
OF UNSPOILED COASTLINE,

PRISTINE WETLANDS,
AND VIRGIN FOREST,

CUBA IS A WILD REFUGE
UNRIVALED IN THE CARIBBEAN.

Man: CUBA IS SUCH
AN ENORMOUS LANDMASS.

YOU HAVE NOT ONLY
A VERY ISOLATED ISLAND

THAT'S EVOLVED HEAVILY
ON ITS OWN,

BUT ALSO YOU HAVE MILLIONS
OF YEARS OF EVOLUTION

HAPPENING ON CUBA
THAT'S MADE IT VERY UNIQUE.

CUBA IS THE CROWN JEWEL
OF THE CARIBBEAN.

THAT'S INARGUABLE
FROM A WONDROUS ARRAY OF

RARE AND ENDEMIC THINGS
THAT OCCUR ONLY THERE.

Man: CUBA IN SOME RESPECTS
IS IN A TIME WARP.

AS THE REST OF THE CARIBBEAN

BEGAN DEVELOPING DECADES AGO,

CUBA FOR ALL INTENTS
AND PURPOSES, STOOD STILL,

AND SO FOR THE MOST PART,

CUBA'S BEACHES,
MANGROVES, WETLANDS,

HAVE SIMPLY BEEN LEFT ALONE.

FOR CREATURES FREE
FROM POLITICAL BOUNDARIES,

THE ALLURE OF CUBA'S UNDEVELOPED
ISLANDS IS IRRESISTIBLE.

AND A GREEN TURTLE WHO SPENDS
HER YEAR FEEDING IN FLORIDA

MAKES THIS ILLICIT CROSSING
EVERY SUMMER.

SHE'S HEADING TO CAYO LARGO,

A TINY SPIT OF
LIMESTONE AND SAND

50 MILES SOUTH OF
CUBA'S MAIN ISLAND.

BUT IT'S NOT THE SUN AND SURF
THAT ATTRACT HER.

HER MISSION MUST WAIT
UNTIL NIGHTFALL.

THE CONDITIONS ARE PERFECT --

IT'S QUIET AND PITCH BLACK.

BUT SHE HAS CHOSEN THIS BEACH
FOR ANOTHER REASON.

IT'S THE VERY BEACH
WHERE SHE WAS BORN.

IN ONE OF NATURE'S
GREAT FEATS OF NAVIGATION,

SHE HAS TRAVELED
HUNDREDS OF MILES TO CUBA

FOR A SINGLE HOUR OF WORK.

SHE CREATES A CAVITY DEEP ENOUGH
TO PROTECT

HER FRAGILE CARGO
FROM THE ELEMENTS.

FINALLY, SHE IS READY.

FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES,

SHE IS IN
A NEAR-ECSTATIC STATE...

RELEASING UP TO 200 EGGS
INTO THE SAND.

WHEN SHE'S FINISHED,
SHE BURIES

HER PRECIOUS PAYLOAD...

AND DRAGS HERSELF
BACK OUT TO SEA.

SHE LEAVES HER HATCHLINGS
WITH A ONE-IN-A-THOUSAND CHANCE

OF SURVIVAL.

AND SHE HAS NO IDEA
WHAT HER BEACH HAS BECOME.

CUBA MAY BE OFF-LIMITS
FOR AMERICANS,

BUT FOR THE REST OF THE WORLD,

THE SECRET IS OUT.

IN 1991,

WHEN THE COLLAPSE
OF THE SOVIET UNION

NEARLY BANKRUPTED THE COUNTRY,

THE REGIME OPENED
ITS PRISTINE BEACHES

TO EUROPEANS, CANADIANS,
SOUTH AMERICANS.

FOR DECADES, A FINANCIAL EMBARGO
BY THE UNITED STATES

HAS SPARED MANY TURTLE
NESTING BEACHES

FROM A FULL-SCALE
TOURIST ONSLAUGHT.

BUT IT'S JUST A MATTER OF TIME

BEFORE THE EMBARGO IS LIFTED...

AND THEN HOW WILL
CUBA'S SEA TURTLES FARE?

Bretos: SEA TURTLES ARE VERY,
VERY SUSCEPTIBLE TO DEVELOPMENT.

IT'S PROBABLY
THE NUMBER ONE THREAT.

THEY'RE SO DEPENDENT ON BEACHES,
CLEAN BEACHES,

BEACHES FREE OF POLLUTION,
FREE OF LIGHTING...

AND ONCE THE PRESSURE TO DEVELOP
THESE VERY PRISTINE BEACHES

PICKS UP, THAT'S GOING TO COME
AT THE EXPENSE

OF SOME VERY, VERY HEALTHY
SEA TURTLE NESTING HABITAT.

Narrator: EVEN ON CAYO LARGO,

THE BEACHES ARE BEGINNING TO
SHOW THE EFFECTS OF TOURISM,

AND POLLUTION IS JUST ONE
OF THE DANGERS THE TURTLES FACE.

IN CUBA SEA TURTLE EGGS
ARE A DELICACY.

ENTERPRISING CUBANS
HUNT FOR NESTS

AND DIG UP THE EGGS
TO SELL ON THE BLACK MARKET.

FORTUNATELY FOR
THE TURTLES OF CAYO LARGO,

GONZALO NODARSE
AND FELIX MONCADA

HAVE SOMETHING ELSE IN MIND.

[ MAN SPEAKING SPANISH ]

Interpreter: SEA TURTLES
ARE A CHARISMATIC SPECIES.

YOU GET THE FEELING THAT
THE MORE WE KNOW ABOUT THEM,

THE LESS WE UNDERSTAND THEM.

LIKE, HOW THEY ARE
BORN ON ONE BEACH,

AND LATER THEY COME BACK TO
THE SAME BEACH TO REPRODUCE.

HOW DO THEY DO IT?

Narrator: FELIX AND GONZALO

ARE CUBA'S TOP
SEA TURTLE BIOLOGISTS,

AND THEY'RE MONITORING
CAYO LARGO'S BEACHES

DURING NESTING SEASON.

THE STEADY ADVANCE OF POLLUTION
AND DEVELOPMENT

IS PUSHING TURTLES
TO BUILD THEIR NESTS

IN INCREASINGLY DANGEROUS AREAS.

[ SPEAKING SPANISH ]

Interpreter:
YOU CAN SEE THAT THE WAVES

COME ALL THE WAY UP TO HERE.

THIS IS A NEST THAT IS
POTENTIALLY THREATENED.

IF THE SEA REACHES THE NEST,

THE SALTWATER WILL PENETRATE
THE EMBRYOS AND THEY'LL DIE.

Narrator: GONZALO AND FELIX

ATTEMPT TO RESCUE THE EGGS
FROM THEIR HAZARDOUS SITE,

AND CALL IN THEIR LOCAL
COLLEAGUE, LEONARDO VALIDO,

WHO RUNS A SMALL HATCHERY
ON THE ISLAND.

THE EGGS ARE TRANSPORTED

IN THE SAME ORIENTATION
THEY'RE FOUND IN THE NEST.

THE SMELL OF THE SAND
FROM THEIR NESTING BEACH

WILL PERMEATE THE SOFT EGGS,
IMPRINTING ON THE TURTLES.

IN THE FUTURE, THE FEMALES
THAT SURVIVE TO ADULTHOOD

WILL FOLLOW THE SCENT
TO THIS EXACT SPOT.

AT THE HATCHERY, LEONARDO RAISES

A FEW TURTLES FROM EACH SEASON

UNTIL THEY'RE OVER A YEAR OLD
AND BIG ENOUGH TO TAG

FOR MIGRATION STUDIES.

HE MAY NEVER LEAVE CUBA HIMSELF,

BUT HE HAS DEVOTED HIS LIFE
TO THESE LITTLE GLOBAL TRAVELERS

THAT HE SENDS OFF
TO SEE THE WORLD EACH SUMMER.

[ VALIDO SPEAKING SPANISH ]

Interpreter: I'VE BEEN HERE IN
CAYO LARGO FOR ABOUT 19 YEARS

IN ONE WAY OR ANOTHER
DOING THIS KIND OF WORK.

I LOVE IT.

I LOVE EVERYTHING THAT HAS TO DO
WITH NATURE,

ESPECIALLY THE TURTLES --
THEY'RE LIKE MY SYMBOL.

[ COUNTING IN SPANISH ]

Narrator:
THE TEMPERATURE OF THE EGGS

WILL DETERMINE
THE SEX OF THE HATCHLINGS,

SO THE TEAM IS CAREFUL TO MIMIC

THE EXACT DIMENSIONS
OF A NATURAL NEST.

AS THE THREATS TO TURTLES
HAVE GROWN,

SO HAS THE SCALE OF
LEONARDO'S OPERATION.

NOW, IN A SINGLE SEASON,

HE'LL HATCH AS MANY AS
15,000 BABY TURTLES.

HE HAS MADE IT
HIS PERSONAL RESPONSIBILITY

TO ENSURE THAT ONE OF THE SEA'S
MOST ESSENTIAL CREATURES

DOESN'T DISAPPEAR.

Interpreter: THIS WORK REQUIRES
A LOT OF ENERGY.

BECAUSE IT'S NOT SOMETHING
THAT'S GOING TO MAKE YOU

FINANCIALLY COMFORTABLE,

YOU MUST BE A PERSON THAT FIRST,
BEFORE EVERYTHING,

DOES IT WITH HEART.

IF YOU ARE WAITING
FOR OTHER BENEFITS...

THERE WILL BE NO POSITIVE RESULT
IN THE END.

Narrator: IN 45 DAYS,

THE BURIED HATCHLINGS WILL
EMERGE FROM THE SAND.

FOR NOW, LEONARDO MUST REMAIN

IN CUBA
BUT HIS NEWBORN TURTLES

WILL BEGIN THEIR JOURNEY
INTO A VAST, MYSTERIOUS WORLD.

[ BELL RINGING ]

Man: CUBA HOLDS SOME OF
THE GREATEST MYSTERIES

OF THE CARIBBEAN.

IT'S SO UNIQUELY SITUATED
RIGHT AT THE CONFLUENCE

OF THE GULF, THE CARIBBEAN,

AND THE ATLANTIC OCEAN.

AND BECAUSE OF THE POLITICAL
SITUATION OVER TIME,

AND THE ECONOMIC SITUATION
IN CUBA

A LOT LESS RESEARCH
HAS BEEN DONE HERE,

AND A LOT LESS IS KNOWN
ABOUT THIS ECOSYSTEM.

Narrator: IN A LAND OFF-LIMITS
TO AMERICANS

FOR OVER HALF A CENTURY,

DAVID GUGGENHEIM IS A RARITY --

ONE OF THE FEW SCIENTISTS
FROM THE UNITED STATES

TO GAIN ACCESS

TO THIS SECRETIVE ISLAND.

THROUGH A PARTNERSHIP
WITH THE UNIVERSITY OF HAVANA,

DAVID HAS WORKED IN CUBA
FOR NEARLY TEN YEARS.

ON A COURSE DUE NORTHWEST
OF THE ISLAND,

HE IS HEADING INTO A VIRTUAL
DEMILITARIZED ZONE,

WHERE CUBA SHARES ITS WATERS
WITH ITS CAPITALIST NEIGHBORS.

TO THE NORTH ARE THE BUSY PORTS
OF THE UNITED STATES.

90 MILES TO THE WEST,

A STEADY STREAM OF CRUISE SHIPS
POURS INTO CANCUN.

BUT HERE, WHERE SOVIET GUNBOATS
ONCE POLICED THE MARINE BORDER,

CUBA'S WATERS ARE STRIKINGLY
FREE OF TRAFFIC...

ON THE SURFACE.

BELOW THE WAVES,

POWERFUL CURRENTS FORM
A MARINE SUPERHIGHWAY,

WHERE CONVOYS OF WHALE SHARKS
PATROL THE COASTLINE.

[ DOLPHINS SQUEAL AND CLICK ]

SCHOOLS OF DOLPHIN AND GROUPER

FOLLOW THE STEADY STREAM
OF NUTRIENTS,

GATHERING TO SPAWN AND FEED.

FOR YEARS DAVID'S FOCUS
HAS BEEN ON

THE FOUNDATION OF THIS
MARINE WORLD --

CLUSTERS OF TINY CREATURES
THAT ARE UNDER ATTACK
ACROSS THE GLOBE -- CORAL REEFS.

IN PARTS OF THE CARIBBEAN,
MORE THAN TWO-THIRDS
OF THE CORALS HAVE DIED.

Guggenheim: CORAL REEFS
ARE CONSIDERED TO BE

''THE RAINFORESTS OF THE SEA.''

AND ROUGHLY 25%
OF THE WORLD'S CORALS

HAVE DIED IN THE LAST
25 TO 50 YEARS.

AND THE ESTIMATES FOR THE FUTURE
ARE THAT

HALF OF THE WORLD'S CORALS
WILL BE GONE

WITHIN ANOTHER 20 TO 25 YEARS.

Narrator: THESE UNDERSEA CITIES

ARE BESIEGED BY
A BARRAGE OF FORCES --

POLLUTION,
RISING OCEAN TEMPERATURES,

OVERFISHING, AND ALGAE.

BUT FOR TEN YEARS
DAVID HAS BEEN DOCUMENTING

AN EXTRAORDINARY PHENOMENON --

CUBA'S CORALS ARE FIGHTING BACK.

Guggenheim: CORALS ARE ANIMALS.

SOME OF THEM LOOK LIKE PLANTS.

AND HERE WE HAVE CORALS
WHICH HAVE BEEN WIPED OUT,

BUT WE ALSO HAVE
THESE YOUNG CORALS

COMING RIGHT BACK AGAIN.

AND THAT IS VERY,
VERY SIGNIFICANT TO SEE.

Narrator: TODAY, DAVID IS
HEADING TO AN UNEXPLORED REEF.

FOR MONTHS,

HE HAS BEEN WAITING FOR PERMITS
TO VISIT THE SITE, AND FINALLY,

HIS REQUEST HAS BEEN GRANTED.

Guggenheim: WORKING HERE
IS INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT

AND OFTEN FRUSTRATING.

THIS EXPEDITION REQUIRES
SIGNATURES FROM

15 DIFFERENT MINISTRIES,
INCLUDING THE ARMY,

BECAUSE THE NORTH COAST
IS CONSIDERED VERY SENSITIVE.

Narrator: THIS SITE,
SO CLOSE TO THE CUBAN COAST,

HAS NEVER BEEN STUDIED
BY SCIENTISTS.

JUST 90 MILES SOUTH OF

THE DISEASED REEFS OF FLORIDA,

WILL THESE CORALS BE
AS UNHEALTHY

AS THEIR NORTHERN NEIGHBORS?

Guggenheim:
SO MUCH OF THIS COAST

IS COMPLETELY UNEXPLORED.

THAT'S THE POINT
OF OUR RESEARCH.

A LOT IT IS JUST DROPPING
YOURSELF IN THE WATER

AND DOCUMENTING
WHAT YOU'RE SEEING.

SO, HONESTLY, I DON'T KNOW
WHAT WE'RE GOING TO SEE.

Narrator: GREAT GARDENS
OF HEALTHY BRAIN CORALS

SPREAD OUT ACROSS THE SEA FLOOR.

VIBRANT SEA FANS
AND TUBE SPONGES

SHOW FEW SIGNS OF
THE CORAL DIE-OFF

PLAGUING THE REST OF THE PLANET.

Guggenheim: IT REALLY IS

A PROFOUNDLY
EMOTIONAL EXPERIENCE.

YOU GET IN THE WATER AND IT IS
LIKE TURNING BACK TIME 50 YEARS

TO WHAT CORAL REEFS LOOKED LIKE

BEFORE HUMAN BEINGS STARTED
MESSING WITH

THE WAY THESE ECOSYSTEMS WORK.

Narrator: DAVID BELIEVES CUBA'S
DEFIANTLY RESILIENT CORALS

ARE TIED DIRECTLY TO
THE HISTORY OF THE ISLAND,

PERHAPS AS FAR BACK AS
THE COLLAPSE OF THE SOVIET UNION

WHEN FERTILIZERS
WERE NO LONGER AVAILABLE.

Guggenheim: ESSENTIALLY,
CUBA WAS FORCED TO IMPLEMENT

ORGANIC FARMING PRACTICES.
AND WITHOUT
ALL OF THOSE NUTRIENTS

FLOWING INTO THE WATER,

IT'S VERY POSSIBLE THAT
THAT HAD THE EFFECT OF

LESSENING THE IMPACTS
ON CORAL REEFS --

LESS FERTILIZER,
LESS ALGAE GROWTH.

Narrator: THEN DAVID SPOTS
AN OLD FRIEND,

A SPECIES HE HASN'T SEEN
IN YEARS...

A SPECTACULAR STAND
OF ACROPORA PALMATA...

ELKHORN CORAL.

THESE BREATHTAKING
COLONIES OF CREATURES

ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT
REEF-BUILDERS IN THE CARIBBEAN.

BUT THEY'RE ALSO
ONE OF THE MOST SENSITIVE.

NEARLY 95% OF
THE WORLD'S ELKHORN

HAS BEEN DESTROYED
BY POLLUTION AND DISEASE.

HERE IN CUBA'S WATERS

THESE COULD BE SOME
OF THE LAST OF THEIR KIND

ON THE PLANET.

Guggenheim: WHY ARE CUBA'S
CORALS SO HEALTHY?

WE DON'T KNOW THE ANSWER.

BUT THERE'S A MYSTERY
WE CAN UNLOCK HERE

THAT COULD PROVIDE LESSONS
FOR US TO CONSERVE CORALS

IN MANY OTHER PLACES,
INCLUDING OUR BACKYARD,

90 MILES NORTH OF HERE.

Narrator: CUBA IS THE GIANT
OF THE CARIBBEAN.

WITH NEARLY HALF
OF THE REGION'S LANDMASS,

THE SPRAWLING ISLAND WAS FORGED

USING NEARLY EVERY TRICK
IN NATURE'S BOOK...

[ THUNDERCLAP ]

WET, TROPICAL FORESTS
MEET PINE-CLOAKED MOUNTAINS...

AND SULTRY WETLANDS GIVE WAY
TO DRY DESERT COASTS.

BUT DESPITE THE ISLAND'S
IMPRESSIVE GRANDEUR,

MUCH OF CUBA'S NATURAL SPLENDOR
PLAYS OUT

ON A DECIDEDLY SMALLER STAGE...

CUBA IS HOME TO
THE WORLD'S SMALLEST BAT,

ONE OF THE SMALLEST OWLS,

AND THE SMALLEST BIRD OF ALL,

A HUMMINGBIRD THAT WEIGHS
LESS THAN A PENNY.

THE BEE HUMMINGBIRD
IS A MIRACLE OF EVOLUTION,

A DESCENDANT OF THE DINOSAURS
BARELY TWO INCHES TALL.

FROM THEIR TREETOP LOOKOUTS,

THEY PERFORM ACROBATIC

AERIAL DISPLAYS,

SCOUTING FOR THE BEST BLOSSOMS

TO SATISFY THEIR
OUTSIZED APPETITES.

IN A SINGLE DAY, THEY'LL EAT
HALF THEIR BODYWEIGHT

IN NECTAR AND INSECTS.

THE BIRD'S SIZE
DOES HAVE ITS DISADVANTAGES...

WHEN COMPETING FOR FOOD,

ITS BIGGER NEIGHBOR,

THE CUBAN EMERALD,

INSISTS ON FIRST PICK.

ONE OF THE TINIEST OF CUBA'S
CREATURES LIVES NOT IN THE TREES

BUT ON THE FOREST FLOOR --
A FROG BARELY HALF THE SIZE
OF ITS OWN NAME...

ELEUTHERODACTYLUS IBERIA,

THE SMALLEST FROG
IN THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE.

LIFE AMONG THE LEAF LITTER
IS FULL OF CONSTANT DANGER,

AND THIS BITE-SIZE FROG KNOWS

HE CAN BE A TEMPTING TREAT
FOR HUNGRY NEIGHBORS...

BUT NOT TODAY.

MAKING THEIR WAY DOWN
FROM THEIR TREETOP SHELTERS

SOME OF THE FOREST'S GAUDIEST
CREATURES ARE ALSO ON THE HUNT.

THESE ARE CUBA'S FAMOUS
PAINTED SNAILS,

THE POLYMITA.

WITH EYES PERCHED
ON LONG STALKS,

THE POLYMITA SEEK OUT
WATER AND LICHEN

ON THE LEAVES OF FERNS
AND OTHER PLANTS.

TODAY, SOMETHING ELSE HAS CAUGHT
THIS SNAIL'S EYE...

AN ATTRACTIVE MATE.

LIKE MOST SNAILS,
POLYMITA ARE HERMAPHRODITES --

BOTH MALE AND FEMALE,

WHICH MEANS ANYONE
IS A POSSIBLE PARTNER.

THE AFFAIR BEGINS WITH
A MYSTERIOUS DANCE,

AS THE COUPLE SLOWLY CIRCLES
ONE ANOTHER.

BUT WHEN THEY'RE READY
TO MAKE THEIR MOVE,

IT'S ANYTHING BUT GENTLE.

THE SNAILS EXTEND A PIERCING
WEAPON KNOWN AS A LOVE DART.

THEY PUNCTURE ONE ANOTHER
IN THE SO-CALLED SENSITIVE ZONE

UNTIL THEY SUCCESSFULLY
EXCHANGE SPERM.

EVENTUALLY, BOTH SNAILS WILL
GO ON TO LAY FERTILIZED EGGS.

FOR NOW, THESE TWO ARE CONTENT

TO LINGER IN THE MOMENT.

THEY SHOULD ENJOY IT,
WHILE THEY CAN --

MATING PARTNERS ARE BECOMING
HARDER AND HARDER TO FIND.

THE POLYMITA'S ELEGANT ARMOR

IS NO DEFENSE

FOR THEIR LATEST THREAT.

POACHERS HUNT THEM TO SELL AS
SHELL NECKLACES AND TRINKETS,

AND THE SNAILS
ARE NOW ENDANGERED.

WHEN THE U.S. EMBARGO LIFTS,

A SUDDEN INFLUX
OF CURIOSITY-SEEKING TOURISTS

COULD DEAL THE FINAL BLOW.
Bretos: THE TOURISM IMPACT HAS
REALLY BEEN MINIMAL IN CUBA

BUT THAT'S GOING TO CHANGE,

BECAUSE WHEN YOU DO HAVE
MORE TOURISTS TO CUBA

THERE'S GOING TO BE
A MUCH BIGGER DEMAND

FOR THESE SORTS OF

ARTISANAL PRODUCTS.

IT'S ALL DETERMINED
BY THE MARKET NOW.

WHEN YOU GO FROM TWO MILLION
TOURISTS A YEAR

TO FOUR TO SIX TO EIGHT,
EVERYTHING WILL CHANGE.

Narrator: IN CUBA
THE PACE OF LIFE

HAS CHANGED LITTLE IN DECADES.

A SMALL POPULATION
ON A LARGE ISLAND

LIVES IN A DEEP ASSOCIATION
WITH THE LAND.

IN THE ISLAND'S FAR WEST,

THE RED-SOILED VALLEYS
OF VITALES ARE FERTILE GROUND

FOR THE COUNTRY'S
MOST FAMOUS EXPORT.

THE FARMERS OF VITALES LIVE
AS THEY HAVE FOR CENTURIES,

MAKING THE MOST
OF WHAT THE LAND AFFORDS THEM.

OTHERS ARE TIED TO THE LAND
IN EVEN MORE REMARKABLE WAYS.

ONE WOMAN HAS DISCOVERED
THAT THIS SLEEPY VALLEY

OFFERS MORE THAN JUST
FERTILE SOIL.

IT PROVIDES HER WITH ANSWERS

TO SOME OF THE MOST COMPLEX
QUESTIONS IN SCIENCE TODAY --

ANSWERS HIDDEN IN THE COUSINS
OF CUBA'S PAINTED SNAILS.

Interpreter: CUBA IS KNOWN
AS THE PARADISE OF SNAILS.

MANY LIVE HERE IN THIS AREA

AND NOWHERE ELSE.

THEY HAVE FASCINATED ME
SINCE I WAS A STUDENT.

AND I LIKE THEM BECAUSE
OF THEIR LIFESTYLE --

SO FREE, SO RELAXED,
SO INTERESTING.

Narrator: IN ONE OF THE MOST
REMOTE REGIONS IN CUBA

BIOLOGIST EMMA PALACIOS LEMAGNE

IS CRACKING THE MYSTERIES
OF EVOLUTION.

CUBA DOESN'T PROVIDE EMMA
WITH MUCH MONEY FOR HER RESEARCH

AND CAN'T SUPPLY HER
WITH EXPENSIVE EQUIPMENT.

BUT WHAT CUBA DOES GIVE HER

IS ONE OF THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY
LABORATORIES ON EARTH.

INSTEAD OF TEST TUBES,

EMMA USES MAMMOTH
LIMESTONE KARSTS

CALLED MOGOTES.

CENTURIES OF EROSION
HAVE CARVED THEM INTO

TOWERING ISLAND WORLDS,

A VIRTUAL GALAPAGOS,

WHERE, LIKE DARWIN'S FINCHES,

EMMA'S SNAILS EVOLVE
IN EXTREME ISOLATION.

THE SNAILS ON THESE
SEPARATED HILLS

NEVER VENTURE MORE THAN
60 FEET FROM HOME,

MAKING THIS THE IDEAL PLACE
FOR EMMA TO DISCOVER

HOW THEIR SHAPES, COLORS

AND BEHAVIORS
ARE DICTATED BY THE LAND.

Interpreter: EACH SLOPE
ON THESE MOGOTES

HAS ITS OWN SPECIES,

AND DIFFERENT VARIATIONS
OF SNAILS

WHICH ALL BELONG
TO THE SAME SPECIES.

ON EACH SLOPE, THEY ARE
DIFFERENT FROM THE NEXT,

BECAUSE OF THE CONDITIONS
IN THE HABITAT, HUMIDITY,

FEEDING CONDITIONS,
OR WIND RESISTANCE.

YOU CAN SEE THE DIVERSITY
OF FORMS IN SUCH A SMALL AREA.

Narrator: THE STRANGE LANDSCAPE
HAS LED TO

SOME STRANGER ADAPTATIONS...

LIKE ONE OF EMMA'S
LEAST FAVORITE SUBJECTS,

THE HOMELY BISTEC DE MOGOTE --

THE PANCAKE SLUG.

THIS BIZARRE CREATURE

HAS TRADED ITS SHELL
FOR A DIFFERENT DEFENSE...

IT'S PERFECTLY CAMOUFLAGED
TO DISAPPEAR INTO
ITS LIMESTONE HIDEOUT.

BUT HIDING MAY NOT BE ENOUGH.

EMMA'S SNAILS ARE LOSING HABITAT

TO EXPANDING TOBACCO FARMS,

AND MANY ARE HUNTED
FOR MUCH-NEEDED PROTEIN.

SHE RUNS A SMALL BREEDING CENTER

TO ENSURE HER PRECIOUS SUBJECTS
DON'T DISAPPEAR FOR GOOD.

Interpreter:
TODAY, WITH HOW THE WORLD IS

AND WITH ALL THE PROBLEMS
THAT THERE ARE,

WHAT INTERESTS ME MOST
IS CONSERVATION.

AND THIS LITTLE THING WE DO

WITH THIS LITTLE SPECIES
OF SNAILS CONTRIBUTES.

Narrator: IN A LAND WHERE
MONEY IS SCARCE

AND TRAVEL NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE,

CONSERVATIONISTS
HAVE TURNED INWARD,

AND FOUND ALL THE RICHES
OF THE NATURAL WORLD

ON ONE REMARKABLE ISLAND.

Bretos: A CUBAN BIOLOGIST
DOESN'T MAKE MORE THAN

$25 A MONTH.

THAT'S JUST AMAZING
TO THINK ABOUT.

THERE'S SO MUCH PASSION
FOR WHAT THEY DO DOWN THERE.

AND THAT DEFINITELY HAS
A POSITIVE IMPACT

ON THE ENVIRONMENT.

Narrator: THE STREETS OF HAVANA
ARE LINED WITH

REMINDERS OF THE ISLAND'S
COLONIAL HISTORY.

BUT JUST A HUNDRED MILES
TO THE SOUTH,

CIVILIZATION GIVES WAY
TO CUBA'S PRIMEVAL PAST.

OVER A MILLION ACRES OF
UNSPOILED CARIBBEAN WETLANDS --

CIENAGA DE ZAPATA --
ZAPATA SWAMP.

[ THUNDERCLAP, RAIN SPLASHING ]

ZAPATA IS CONSIDERED

THE MOST IMPORTANT WETLAND
IN THE HEMISPHERE,

AND DESPITE THE EMBARGO,

THE SWAMP ALREADY DRAWS

THOUSANDS OF VISITORS
FROM NORTH AMERICA EVERY YEAR.

CUBA IS A WAY STATION FOR NEARLY
300 SPECIES OF MIGRATORY BIRDS

THAT BREED IN THE UNITED STATES.

ENCOMPASSING THE INFAMOUS
BAY OF PIGS, EVERY FALL,

ZAPATA IS NOW HOME TO
A DIFFERENT KIND OF INVASION.

CLOUDS OF WARBLERS IBIS,
CRANES AND HERONS

LEAVE THEIR SUMMER HOMES
ALONG THE EASTERN UNITED STATES

ON A DIRECT FLIGHT TO CUBA.

MILLIONS OF BIRDS
IN FLOCKS SO ENORMOUS

THEY BLANKET THE SKY
ON RADAR IMAGES.

SOME FLY OVER 1,500 MILES,
FROM AS FAR NORTH AS NEW ENGLAND
AND CANADA.

MANY SPEND THEIR WINTER HERE

IN THE CARIBBEAN'S LARGEST
PROTECTED WETLANDS.

SOME WILL SIMPLY PAUSE
BEFORE HOPPING ACROSS

THE CARIBBEAN
ALL THE WAY TO SOUTH AMERICA.

SPRAWLING MANGROVES, FORESTS
AND LAGOONS

PROVIDE IDEAL HABITAT
FOR THE VISITORS

AND ALSO FOR BIRDS FOUND

NOWHERE ELSE ON EARTH --

THE CUBAN PARROT,

THE MULTICOLORED CUBAN TODY,

AND THE ISLAND'S NATIONAL BIRD,
THE CUBAN TROGON.

BUT BELOW THE SURFACE
OF ZAPATA'S VAST SWAMPS

LIVES ONE OF CUBA'S OLDEST,
MOST ICONIC CREATURES...

ONE THAT ONCE LURKED
THROUGHOUT THE CARIBBEAN,

BUT IS NOW FOUND ONLY HERE
IN ITS LAST REFUGE --

THE CUBAN CROCODILE.

THE CUBAN CROC SHARES THE SWAMP
WITH ITS LARGER COUSIN,

THE AMERICAN CROCODILE.

BUT WHAT IT LACKS IN SIZE
IT MAKES UP FOR

WITH A NOTORIOUSLY
AGGRESSIVE TEMPERAMENT.

AMONG THE FASTEST CROCODILES
IN THE WORLD,

THE CUBAN CROC HAS EVOLVED FEET
WITH LESS WEBBING,

TO ENABLE POWERFUL
BURSTS OF SPEED.

KNOWN AS THE ''PEARLY CROCODILE''

BECAUSE OF ITS YELLOW
AND BLACK COLORING,

THE CROC HAS POWERFUL JAWS
FOR CRUSHING ITS PREY --

TURTLES, CRABS AND FISH.

IT'S BEST KNOWN
FOR JUMPING OUT OF THE WATER

TO SNATCH SMALL MAMMALS
FROM OVERHANGING TREES.

CUBAN CROCS ONCE RANGED
ALL THE WAY

TO THE CAYMAN ISLANDS
AND THE BAHAMAS...

BUT OVERHUNTING
AND COMPETITION FOR HABITAT

HAVE NOW CONFINED THEM TO CUBA.

AS FEW AS 3,000 ANIMALS

NOW HANG ON TO SURVIVAL
IN ZAPATA SWAMP.

ROBERTO ''TOBY'' RAMOS
IS CUBA'S LEADING AUTHORITY

ON THE CUBAN CROC.

FOR OVER 30 YEARS

TOBY HAS NAVIGATED
THE WATERWAYS OF ZAPATA

ON A QUEST TO UNDERSTAND
THESE ANCIENT REPTILES.

THE CUBAN CROCODILES PREFER
THE FRESHWATER MARSHES

DEEP INSIDE THE SWAMP.

TOBY'S TEAM HAS TO WAIT
FOR THE SUMMER RAINY SEASON,

WHEN THE WATER IS HIGH ENOUGH
TO ACCESS THEIR NESTING GROUNDS.

WITH ONLY THE MOST BASIC TOOLS,

THEY'RE JUST BEGINNING
TO UNCOVER THE MYSTERIES

OF THE WORLD'S RAREST CROCODILE.

Interpreter: THE CUBAN CROCODILE
IS ALMOST COMPLETELY UNKNOWN.

ALL WE'VE DONE
IS TRY TO GIVE ANSWERS

TO BASIC QUESTIONS OF ECOLOGY --

WHERE ARE THEY,
HOW MANY ARE THERE,

THEIR REPRODUCTIVE SUCCESS,
AND THEIR HABITAT.

I DON'T THINK
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING

IS TO KNOW
THE NUMBER OF ANIMALS,

BUT RATHER WHAT IS THE STABILITY
OF THE POPULATION.

IS THIS POPULATION INCREASING,
IS IT STABLE,

OR IS IT DECREASING?

Narrator: THE TEAM HEADS DEEP
INTO THE MUDDY MANGROVES

TO CONDUCT FIELD SURVEYS

ON THE SWAMP'S
FEISTIEST INHABITANTS.

[ MEN SPEAKING SPANISH ]

Interpreter: THE CUBAN CROCODILE
IS CONSIDERED

ONE OF THE MOST
AGGRESSIVE CROCODILES.

IT CAN BE DANGEROUS
AT ANY MOMENT.

GOD GAVE HIM MANY TEETH,

AND HE GAVE THEM TO HIM
FOR A REASON.

YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL,

AND HAVE AN UNDERSTANDING
AND EXPERIENCE WITH ANIMALS.

BUT EITHER WAY,
THEY WILL KILL WHOMEVER.

Narrator: TOBY AND HIS TEAM
ARE CONDUCTING A STUDY,

DETAILING THE PHYSICAL
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN

THE RHOMBIFER,
OR CUBAN CROCODILE,

AND THE AMERICAN ACUTUS SPECIES.

Interpreter: WE MEASURE
THE AMOUNT OF VENTRAL LINES,

AND THE DORSAL LINES,
WHICH ARE THESE.

WE ALSO COUNT THE TEETH

BECAUSE THE ACUTUS HAS MORE
MANDIBULAR TEETH.

Narrator: CUBAN CROCS CAN LIVE
FOR UP TO 75 YEARS

AND GROW UP TO 11 FEET LONG.

TOBY BELIEVES THIS SPECIMEN
IS A JUVENILE MALE.

WHILE THE TEAM TAKES
THEIR MEASUREMENTS,

THE CROC'S PATIENCE

APPEARS TO BE WEARING THIN.

BUT ONE FINAL PROCEDURE
REVEALS A SURPRISE...

Interpreter:
THIS IS A LARGE CROCODILE,

SO WE CAN CHECK IT MANUALLY.

IF IT WERE A MALE,
THE PENIS WOULD COME OUT.

Narrator: THE CROC IS A FEMALE.

SHE IS THEN SUBJECTED TO
ONE FINAL INDIGNITY.

SHE'S MARKED

TO AVOID RECAPTURING HER DURING
THE REST OF THE STUDY.

IT'S A LOW-TECH
BUT EFFECTIVE OPERATION,

WITH THE TEAM'S IMAGINATION
UNCONFINED BY ECONOMICS.

[ RAMOS SPEAKING SPANISH ]
Interpreter: CONSERVATION
IN CUBA IS VERY DIFFICULT

BECAUSE RESEARCH IN ANY FIELD
NEEDS MONEY.

BUT STILL, EVEN THOUGH WE HAVE
VERY LITTLE,

WE'VE ACCOMPLISHED THE SAME
THINGS OTHER NATURALISTS HAVE

IN OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD.

WE DO OUR RESEARCH
TO OUR FULL CAPACITY

WITH WHATEVER WE HAVE.

Narrator: WHILE THE POPULATION
OF CUBAN CROCS

APPEARS STABLE FOR NOW,

NEW PRESSURES STILL THREATEN
THEIR NUMBERS.

AMERICAN AND CUBAN CROCODILES

ARE ENCROACHING ON
EACH OTHER'S TERRITORIES,

MATING AND PRODUCING
A HYBRID SPECIES.

POACHERS TARGET THE CROCS
FOR HIDES AND MEAT,

AND MORE AND MORE TOURISTS
COME TO ZAPATA EACH YEAR.

NOW, WITH THE POSSIBILITY
OF THE U.S. EMBARGO LIFTING,

CAN THE SWAMP
AND ITS INHABITANTS

SURVIVE A SUDDEN INVASION
OF AMERICAN TOURISTS?

SO FAR, CUBA HAS BEEN SPARED

FROM THE HIGH-VOLUME TOURISM
AND INDUSTRY

THE UNITED STATES COULD BRING.

BUT IS THE EMBARGO
THE SOLE REASON FOR THE ISLAND'S

PRISTINE STATE?

Guggenheim: I THINK THE REASONS
THAT EXPLAIN

WHY WE HAVE AN ENVIRONMENTALLY
FLOURISHING ISLAND HERE

ARE BOTH, IN TERMS OF POLICIES,

LEGITIMATE POLICIES
AND ENFORCEMENT

BY THE CUBAN GOVERNMENT,

AND ALSO PARTIALLY
AN ACCIDENT OF HISTORY,

OF THE WAY
THIS ISLAND DEVELOPED,

WHICH WAS SO DIFFERENT.

IT IS A BIT OF AN ACCIDENT
IN THAT THEY HAVE
BEEN BLESSED

WITH THIS VERY LARGE COUNTRY
RELATIVE TO THEIR POPULATION.

IT'S ROUGHLY
THE SIZE OF FLORIDA.

INSTEAD OF HAVING
18 OR 19 MILLION PEOPLE,

IT HAS 11.

AND THAT HAS BEEN BENEFICIAL
TO A LOT OF

THE NATURAL AREAS IN CUBA.
Narrator:
IN SPITE OF THE EMBARGO,

TOURISM IN CUBA
IS BIG BUSINESS --

AND GETTING BIGGER EVERY DAY.

IN SOME PARTS OF THE COUNTRY,

THE ENVIRONMENT IS ALREADY
PAYING THE PRICE.

Guggenheim: AS AMERICANS,
WE OFTEN THINK OF CUBA

AS COMPLETELY DEVOID
OF ANY OUTSIDE PRESENCE.

WE FORGET THAT WE'RE THE ONLY
ONES WHO HAVE EMBARGOED CUBA.

AND WE DO SEE SOME OF

THAT FLORIDA-STYLE DEVELOPMENT

FROM THE '60s THAT,
YOU KNOW,

WE WOULD PREFER NEVER TO SEE
AGAIN ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD.

Man: THE VICE MINISTER
FOR TOURISM SAID,

LOOKING AT
WHAT MIGHT HAPPEN IN CUBA

IF IT REALLY OPENED UP
TO WESTERN TOURISM FULLY,

HIS GUESS WAS THAT IT MIGHT TAKE

MANY HUNDREDS
OF ADDITIONAL GOLF COURSES --

MAYBE A THOUSAND,
MAYBE TWO THOUSAND.

AND IT'S HARD FOR ME TO EVEN
IMAGINE WHERE IN CUBA

I WOULD LIKE TO SEE

A THOUSAND
ADDITIONAL GOLF COURSES.

Narrator:
ALONG THE NORTHERN KEYS,

MANGROVES AND SAND DUNES
ARE BULLDOZED

TO CARVE OUT A GROWING NUMBER
OF BEACH RESORTS.

IN 1989,

THE REGIME BUILT A CAUSEWAY
LINKING CAYO COCO,

THE BIGGEST TOURIST KEY,
TO THE MAIN ISLAND.

THE ECOLOGICAL REPERCUSSIONS

BECAME A WAKE-UP CALL
ACROSS CUBA.

Bretos: BY BUILDING THIS HIGHWAY
THROUGH AN ESTUARY

AND COASTAL AREA,
THEY BASICALLY CUT OFF

THE SEAWATER
THAT WAS COMING IN

AND NOURISHING THE REST OF
THE COASTAL AREA.

THIS WAS A HUGE ENVIRONMENTAL
ISSUE IN CUBA.

PEOPLE WERE AMAZED AT
HOW THIS COULD HAVE HAPPENED.

AND IT DID REALLY CHANGE
THE MINDS OF CUBANS.

Narrator:
AFTER THE CAYO COCO DEBACLE,

THE REGIME REVERSED COURSE
BY ANNOUNCING CONSERVATION
AS OFFICIAL STATE POLICY,

AND ENVIRONMENTAL LAWS WERE
ENSHRINED IN THE CONSTITUTION.

TODAY, ABOUT 22% OF CUBA'S LAND

AND A QUARTER
OF ITS MARINE HABITAT

ARE PROTECTED BY LAW.

IF THE EMBARGO IS LIFTED

AND A FLOOD
OF AMERICAN TOURISTS COME,

CUBA HAS THE RIGHT LAWS
AND POLICIES

TO ENSURE THAT IT PROTECTS
ITS ENVIRONMENT

AND SUSTAINS ITS RESOURCES
WHILE GROWING
AT AN UNPRECEDENTED RATE.

IT'S GOT THE RIGHT STUFF.
IT CERTAINLY HAS THE RIGHT LAWS.

BUT LAWS ARE ONLY AS GOOD
AS THEIR IMPLEMENTATION.

Narrator: TOURISM ISN'T
THE ONLY INDUSTRY

SETTING ITS SIGHTS
ON THE ISLAND.

MINING COMPANIES
AND OIL PROSPECTORS

ARE ALSO JOSTLING
TO CASH IN ON CUBA.

IF WE LOOK AT OTHER EXAMPLES
OF HISTORY AROUND THE WORLD,

THE SOVIET UNION
AND OTHER COUNTRIES,

WHEN THE FORCES OF CAPITALISM

START TO KICK IN,

THEY CAN ACCELERATE SO RAPIDLY,

AND THE POWER OF THE DOLLAR
BEING WHAT IT IS, IT'S SOMETHING

VERY DEFINITELY TO WORRY ABOUT.

Narrator: BACK ON CAYO LARGO,

AFTER 45 DAYS IN THE SAND,
LEONARDO'S CLUTCH OF EGGS
HATCHES.

TOURISTS FROM NEARBY HOTELS
CAN PAY A SMALL FEE

TO RELEASE THE BABY TURTLES,

AND THE MONEY HELPS KEEP
LEONARDO'S HATCHERY GOING.

IT'S ECOTOURISM
ON A SMALL SCALE,

AND AN EXAMPLE OF
A POSITIVE PATH

CUBA COULD TAKE IN THE FUTURE.

[ MONCADA SPEAKING SPANISH ]

Interpreter:
I THINK WE CAN CONTINUE

WITH CONSERVATION
IN THIS COUNTRY,

EVEN THOUGH TOURISM IS GROWING.

AND TOURISM CAN BE GOOD,
BECAUSE THERE ARE ACTIVITIES

THE TOURISTS CAN PARTICIPATE IN,
AND FINANCIALLY

IT BENEFITS CONSERVATION
FOR THE WHOLE COUNTRY.

Interpreter: I WILL CONTINUE
THIS AS LONG AS I CAN,

TO MAINTAIN IT,

SO MY KIDS AND OTHER GENERATIONS
IN THE FUTURE

CAN SEE THIS BEAUTY,

AND TO TEACH THEM HOW TO LOVE
ALL THE ANIMALS

THAT ARE A PART OF LIFE.

Interpreter: DEVELOPMENT

AND CONSERVATION, I THINK,
CAN EXIST TOGETHER PERFECTLY.

IT'S NOT EASY --
IT WILL BE VERY DIFFICULT.

BUT IF WE DON'T DO IT,
THE WORLD WILL BE DESTROYED.

[ APPLAUSE ]

Narrator: YEARS FROM NOW,

WHEN THESE TURTLES MAKE
THE PILGRIMAGE HOME

TO LAY THEIR EGGS,

TO WHAT KIND OF ISLAND
WILL THEY RETURN?

WILL HOTELS AND SWIMMING POOLS
LINE THEIR NESTING BEACHES?

SCIENTISTS ALL AGREE
THAT WHAT HAPPENS NEXT

WILL HAVE REPERCUSSIONS
FAR BEYOND CUBA'S BORDERS.

Bretos: WHAT'S AT STAKE IS MORE
THAN WHAT'S IN CUBA

OR WHAT'S ALL AROUND CUBA.
THE FISH THAT WE EAT IN FLORIDA,

MANY OF THOSE ARE BORN
OFF THE COAST OF CUBA.

THE BIRDS THAT PEOPLE WATCH
IN ARKANSAS

PROBABLY WINTER IN CUBA.

IF CUBA CAN'T ADAPT
WHEN THINGS OPEN UP,

AND IF CUBA CAN'T HOLD ON

AND DO THINGS THE RIGHT WAY,
AND PROTECT

THEIR PROTECTED AREAS
OR THEIR BEACHES

OR THEIR RIVERS AND SWAMPS,
THEN EVERYONE SUFFERS.

WHERE THE REST OF US
MADE A LOT OF MISTAKES

BECAUSE WE DIDN'T KNOW
ANY BETTER,

THEY'VE PAID ATTENTION.

IT'S ALMOST AS IF CUBA
PICKED THE PERFECT TIME

NOT TO FOLLOW THE LEADER,
IN TERMS OF DEVELOPMENT.

THEY DID SOMETHING
RADICALLY DIFFERENT,

AND NOW THEY HAVE THE BENEFIT OF
HALF A CENTURY OF KNOWLEDGE

AND THEY HAVE A CHANCE
TO REALLY BE

THE MODEL OF HOW TO DO IT RIGHT.

Narrator:
CUBA IS NOW POISED FOR A LEAP

INTO THE FUTURE,
WITH AN OPPORTUNITY

THE REST OF US HAVE LOST.

IT COULD BE THAT CUBA'S
MOST LASTING REVOLUTION

WILL BE NOT RED, BUT GREEN.

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT WHAT YOU'VE
SEEN ON THIS ''NATURE'' PROGRAM,