Midnight Asia: Eat Dance Dream (2022–…): Season 1, Episode 4 - Bangkok, Thailand - full transcript

[tranquil music]

[boat engine rumbling softly]

[Makham] When the sun comes down,

people in Bangkok come to life.

A lot of people have that energy
that comes out of them,

that kind of changes
their character almost.

It's that feeling you get
where it feels like

you've entered, like,
a different dimension.

I'm getting goosebumps talking about it!
[laughs]

When I came here, I felt like I was home.

Like this is where I'm supposed to be.



[techno music]

You could say Bangkok
is a tale of two cities

with two worlds in one.

[Sikharin]
The Hollywood image of Bangkok at night

evokes pictures of neon lights,

the underworld, and extreme partying.

But there's so much more
to Bangkok than that.

At night, Bangkok becomes a place
bursting with creativity.

The energy and competitiveness
of over ten million inhabitants

inspire an innovative spirit in the city

and a strong desire for self-expression.

Anything is possible
for young people here.

[Niks] I would describe Bangkok
as systematic chaos.

The rule is no rule. The plan is no plan.



This is Bangkok.

[Choltanutkun] You always find local lives
hidden among the big buildings in Bangkok.

Thai people are full of creativity.

At night, they are redefining the city.

[theme music]

[cars honking]

[Sikharin] Bangkok in the early evening
is chaotic and full of traffic jams.

Life here is energetic, wild,
and very competitive.

But that's what actually brings about new

and interesting ideas.

It's like an ongoing adventure
because the city is dynamic,

it's always changing.

But while Bangkok is known to be one
of the most visited cities in the world,

a lot of people miss out on the diversity
and creativity of the local scene.

There are new and unusual venues

hidden in places that until now
have remained unknown to many tourists.

Near Chinatown lies Soi Nana.

Once a neighborhood
of long-standing businesses,

Soi Nana is now a place filled
with the coolest bars.

One of the first pioneers
who saw the potential in Soi Nana

is Niks Anuman-Rajadhon.

[Niks] Soi Nana has its own style.

It's definitely unique.

Four or five years ago,
there was nothing much on the street.

At night, it was quite dark and quiet.

Back in the day,
it was quite a dodgy place.

At nighttime, you'd get robbed.
[chuckles]

You'd get robbed, for sure.

We found this space.

And I did some math,
and I think it could work.

Yeah, people called me crazy.

And, actually,
it's been here for five years.

[quirky music]

[Makham] In our bar, we change our menu
every so often depending on the seasons.

Everything is from local farmers

and from really rural villages
in Thailand.

So this is a dorsata.

It's a species of bee,
and we use this honey

for a lot of the batches
that we make with the cocktails.

But we have a collection
of a lot of other types of honey.

Like this one is from Chiang Mai,

we have from like Chiang Rai,
Kanchanaburi, Krabi, as well.

I really like the one from Krabi.

They have, like, this weird,
salty taste to it.

[chuckles]

[Sikharin] The team at Asia Today
also has a great mix of people,

just like their cocktails.

One of them is Makham Tamaryn Cooper.

[Makham]
When people find out I'm a bartender,

it comes to be quite a shock to them.

Because female bartenders
are a minority here,

and I'm constantly having to prove myself.

Some people in here refer to me in Thai,

we say maa meud,
which is, um, "dark horse."

My mom is Thai, and my father is British.

I grew up with my father,

so I never really was accustomed
to Thai culture,

never really spoke Thai.

I left school at 17.

I was in the UK on my own.

I was in an apprenticeship
at a tattoo studio.

I worked seven days a week, three jobs,
so I could pursue that tattoo career.

And then suddenly I got a call
from my tattoo studio saying,

"Well, you're not ready for this."

And that's when I kind of,
like, broke down.

I guess you could call it
a midlife crisis at age 18.

Then I booked a one-way ticket
to Thailand, and that was it.

When I landed, I was crying,
having a panic attack.

I couldn't speak to people.

But not 'cause I didn't know the language,
but because I was, I guess, afraid.

But when I came here to work at Soi Nana,

I found that people here are so supportive

and willing to give you a chance,
an opportunity.

I feel like I can be myself here.

[Niks] My gut feeling for Makham
is that she has a great road ahead.

But to be one of our team,

we'll push you.

We'll challenge you.

[Makham]
Tonight, it's gonna be really busy,

so we have to do double of everything.

So I'm in a bit of a rush
to get everything sorted and prepared

before the customers start coming in.

For those of you
who are new here, don't panic.

I don't expect everything to go perfectly.

I just want you to survive the night.

Let's go, team. Let's go.

[Niks] When Makham came here
the first time, she was young.

I mean, she is still young.

But age does not justify ability.

And she's a fighter.

I kind of sensed it since day one.

This person will become very successful.

We have faith in her.

[motorbike rumbling]

[upbeat music]

[Choltanutkun] Street peddlers
are such a big part of Bangkok.

A lot of people come here
for job opportunities,

so they have brought
their culture into the city as well.

You can pretty much find food

from everywhere
around Thailand in this city.

And that's what makes it
so colorful and lively.

[upbeat music]

What that means to Thai people

is that if you're hungry
at four in the morning,

there will always be something to eat.

That's what makes Bangkok Bangkok.

[Koh] Bangkok is a city that never sleeps.

Hello, feel free to stop by for a bite.

We've got seats available.

[Koh] There's energy. There's freedom.

Each night is different.

[man] Put the beef on the grill!

[Koh] Our stall sells pork
and beef skewers.

We have northern sausages, pork sausages,
fermented sausages and grilled chicken.

But our best seller is pork skewers
with fermented fish sauce.

Tonight, I think we're probably
gonna sell around 5,000 skewers.

[Koh] I grew up near Bangkok.

It's just a couple of hours
away from here.

It actually all began
when I came to visit my dad.

He was already running the stall,
but his business wasn't doing well.

Poor man.

Just a short walk to the alley,
and you'll find Hero Moo Plara.

Our stall opens daily.

[Koh] My father used to be overweight.

He had a big belly.

But he was so deep in debt
that he wasn't sleeping or eating much.

I felt like I had to do something,
so I stayed to help him.

At first, I didn't like Bangkok at all.

But then, I had no choice.

THAI NORTHEASTERN STYLE SAUSAGES

I stayed.

I started by trying our food
to see what it tasted like.

Our signature dipping sauce was too watery

and it wasn't spicy enough.

I knew right away we had to make changes.

So, I did some experiments
and changed the recipe.

For the ingredients, I use lemongrass,
galangal, and kaffir lime leaves.

There's actually a lot more,
but I cannot reveal that to you.

It's a business secret.

After that, we add our special
fermented fish sauce concoction.

Wow. It smells amazing.

We make sure the sauce isn't too sweet.

Our pork is sweet already.

When we pair it with the fermented sauce,

the taste is perfectly balanced.

I just go with my instincts
thinking that if I like it,

others would too.

The sauce is spicy at first,

followed by a rich
and delicious flavor to finish.

Our customers always finish
all the dipping sauce we serve them.

And most of them ask for more.

The fermented fish sauce is so rich
and the pork is really tender.

I'll probably come eat here again.

Ms. Nun, your order is ready.

Ten pork skewers and sticky rice.

[Koh's father] That's 105 baht.

We used to prepare
only 20 or 30 kilos of pork.

Now, we sell over a hundred kilograms.

The young generation these days
have lots of energy and ideas.

And that's why
I'm really very proud of my son.

Please wait to be called.

Once I call your name,
you can pay and get the vegetables there.

What if we can't remember the name?

If you forget your name,
then you won't get to eat.

Thank you, everyone,
for coming to Hero Moo Plara tonight.

[Koh] We used to have only one mat
for customers.

These days, we have 40 mats
and it's still not enough.

It's really unbelievable.
I never thought we'd come this far.

Although our stall isn't a restaurant
in a building,

we've now become part
of the city life in Bangkok.

Something I never imagined before.

But I love Bangkok now,
especially at night.

I've fallen in love with its charms.

[tranquil music]

Bangkok is a modern metropolis,

but at the same time,
it's also a very traditional city.

Thai people are creative people.

So, at night, they are combining
old and new, foreign and Thai.

[Thai traditional music]

[Sikharin]
Likay is a traditional performing art

that's been adored by Thais
down through the ages.

Likay is more popular in rural areas
than in Bangkok

because there's lesser sense
of community nowadays in Bangkok.

[Nack] Get your makeup on, kid.

[Sikharin]
But the Two Princes Likay Troupe,

run by two brothers Nack and Neno,
is looking to change that.

[Nack] In 2010, my brother and I formed
the Two Princes Likay Troupe.

But in Bangkok, the artform of Likay
is seen as outdated.

One time, our audio equipment broke down
after 30 minutes into the performance.

Another time, I remember we only had
ten fans watching us in the audience,

and four or five stray dogs
strolling in front of the stage.

I thought,
"Is our troupe going to make it?"

But once you start fighting,

it's like you're riding a tiger.

You just can't dismount.

I decided to change our performance style.

I was born and raised in Bangkok.

I grew up watching a lot of TV.

There were these superhero costumes

that every kid back then
dreamed of wearing.

They were costumes with capes
and headgears and masks.

Here. You'll be wearing
the Dark Knight costume.

Today, you'll be Batman.

This is my big brother, Neno.

He's very popular. He's got lots of fans.

Do you have a girlfriend?

-[whispers] Knock it off.
-He's not allowed to date.

All his female patrons will be upset.

I made my brother
and the troupe wear the costumes.

We're like the Avengers.

[Neno] When Nack came up
with the idea of Likay superheroes,

I was against it at first.

But he insisted that we give it a go.

I remember someone said,
"I'm not watching that Likay freak show."

I was like, "I don't care."

[Nack shouting]

[Neno yelping, grunting]

We took a lot of things
and combined them together.

We turned stories of royalty
and miracle tales

into a story of everyday people.

[in Thai] Look at my friend!
Look at his scar!

-Did you get slashed?
-It was my appendix.

[audience laughing]

[all giggling]

[Neno in English] We were harshly
criticized at first for our performance,

but we've also gained more young fans.

The place where we once performed
to a few people,

is now filled with thousands.

-[performer in Thai] I'm crazy!
-I'm crazy!

[Neno in English] When we give
performances in and around Bangkok,

we see kids and parents
who have never watched

a Likay show before.

But they've seen our performance
on YouTube and Facebook.

I'm proud of my little brother.

[Nack] I want to show kids
of this generation

that these are my roots,
and that Likay is part of Thai culture.

As long as there's still breath in me,

Likay will never disappear from Thailand.

We'll live on.

[inspiring music]

[upbeat music]

[Celeste] I'm a night person.

The allure of Bangkok lies
in its diversity and mystery

with endless places to explore.

Some people have this perception
that nightlife in Thailand

has nothing new to offer,

and the nightlife scene hasn't changed,

and it's what's always been.

But Bangkok's nightlife scene
actually has so much to offer.

There are hidden bars,
cocktail bars, and rooftop bars.

We have a community
of young DJs who are very talented.

[club music]

[shouts, cheers]

[Sikharin] Celeste Siam is one
of Thailand's biggest musical exports,

who's performed overseas
and made a name for herself

over the past several years.

She recently moved back to Thailand
to help Thai artists,

especially young DJs
to gain more recognition and success.

[Celeste] First of all,
has anyone ever played a track before?

No? This is called the pitch control.

You can adjust the speed of the music.

[trilling]

Did you hear that first click,
tick, tick, tick?

I like to hear it.

Count the beat. One, two, three, four.

One, two, three, four.

One, two, three, four.

[mellow music playing]

Ten years ago, there were hardly
any female DJs around here.

As a rookie DJ, I sometimes needed
the resident DJs to help me set up.

Some would help me.

Many would just ignore me,

and sometimes even leave the cords
or the cables unplugged or lying around

and just walked away.

I went through a lot,
but I stayed positive,

but I feel grateful
for those people regardless.

I never dreamed that one day
I'd become Celeste Siam.

I wanted to come back
to play music in Bangkok again.

It's the city where I grew up.

I wanted to support other DJs
and share new trends in music.

I wanted to do whatever I can do to help.

[Sikharin] Safe Room is one example
of the hidden creativity

of the residents of Bangkok.

It is a unique experience
of their lively nightlife.

It's a redefinition of space
that once used to be a bank.

This place has become a pioneering venue

for the underground
electronic music scene.

Let's take one with the light!

[Celeste]
Safe Room is an underground club

that is something.

Its very concept is geared
towards helping local artists,

newcomers and new events.

There are many young DJs and fans

who've never had a chance
to see me perform.

Takky! Ah, right! I remember!

We bumped into each other earlier.

Just now, right?

Okay, yes. You have a twin sister, right?

[Takky] Yeah, I usually play solo.

The music I'll be playing tonight
is a style called organic house.

It's a melodic deep tech.

The audience in Bangkok
is always open to new things.

All the time.

The moment I start a track,
I watch the crowd's reaction

to see whether the bass line
can get them dancing.

I always try to take control of the crowd.

It's a real challenge but it's really fun.

[techno music]

Every show feels like an adventure,
from the start, up until the end.

♪ As long as I got you ♪

♪ As long as you got me ♪

♪ Oh, baby ♪

[techno music continues]

[Celeste] In the past, we didn't have
many options for places to go at night.

Now, our DJ community is growing

along with Bangkok's electronic
music and nightlife scenes.

It's a really exciting time
to be living in.

Life is full of fun,
especially at night in Bangkok.

[tranquil music]

[Tam] Every time I go collect herbs
and vegetables in the garden,

I feel at peace.

It doesn't feel like I'm in Bangkok.

This is similar to water spinach.

But we call it pae tum pung in Thai.

It's really hard to find these days.

[Sikharin] Bangkok's culinary scene
is full of new innovations.

We see a new generation of chefs
starting to explore

new ways of cooking
using more of the local ingredients.

Chef Tam Chudaree Debhakam
is one of those chefs.

When you come to have dinner at Baan Tepa,

you don't just enjoy the food,

you get to enjoy the story
behind the meal.

Right now, I'm just picking some tarragon.

We do a quick blanch.

Salty water. Almost like,
have to taste like the sea.

Very salty.

It's funny because in Thai cuisine
there's a lot of herbs, right?

But you'd be surprised
how many Thai people

actually pick all the herbs out,
they won't eat it.

It's part of the challenge
to see if they can…

come to enjoy it at the end of the meal.

[electronic music]

[Tam] It was my family that got me
interested in food since I was young.

My entire family are foodies.

I spent some time working in New York.

When I came back to Thailand,
things were different.

I felt a bit lost. Like an outsider.

So, I decided to go traveling.

I went to Chiang Rai
to live on a mountain,

where the locals cooked me
their traditional dishes.

That was the moment that changed my life.

I found new ways of cooking.

I discovered all these exciting
new ingredients,

as well as different
regional cooking styles.

I felt like I had so much to learn,

and I wanted to take
what I learned back home,

and share it with the people in Bangkok.

It was a very rewarding experience for me.

I got to see and experience
what Thailand had to offer

to those in the culinary world.

So we're gonna dress
the fresh crab meat that we just steamed.

And I'm really playing up, like,
the greenness of this dish.

At Baan Tepa,

we want to offer more than
just delicious food to our customers.

There has to be a story
behind each dish that we serve.

That by using local ingredients,

that people these days may not recognize,

we're trying to revive
traditional Thai cuisine

for the new generation to appreciate.

[Tam] Everything tastes good.

They're in for a treat tonight.

Hello.

-Good evening
-[Tam] Hello. Good evening. Welcome.

Baan means, uh, home

or… or house in Thai.

I feel like it's a fitting name

because this place
is really my family home.

So, yeah, this used to be
my grandmother's house.

A lot of the recipes are drawn
from the experiences of what I ate

growing up with my grandma.

I really do, like, gravitate
to all the grandmothers in the world

because I just love learning
about their cooking.

This is me in the double denim.

Everyone who comes here,
they are guests to our home.

[Tam] Our garden tour is like
an appetizer for our guests.

They get to see the different ingredients

that I'll use before they come inside
to enjoy the meal.

This is tarragon.

Oh, tarragon.

Yes, I got the cutting from Chiang Rai.

I'll be cooking with it tonight.

I think we're one of the first
to use this concept

among all the restaurants in Bangkok.

We have weeds all over the garden,

so we try to find a way to turn them
into something we can eat.

Isn't that a great concept?

[female manager] Right this way, please.

Three of you can sit on this side,
and one can sit on that side.

[Tam] The name of the first dish
is Our Garden Weeds.

It's very strong, very herby, and green.

This is the one
that I'm most concerned about.

It's a bit of a statement piece
to present this as the first course.

Our take on this Thai food, you know?

We only have one evening
to get our message across.

This dish is made with the produce
from our own garden.

The green broth is sour mango broth
that we infused with tarragon

which you all took a whiff of
in the garden.

I'd like for you to try it.
You can eat it using a spoon.

We keep our fingers crossed each night.

[female customer 1]
When I first saw it, I was hesitant

because it looked so green.

I wasn't sure
whether I'd be able to eat it,

but then I took a bite, and it was like…

There's also a connection
to the garden I just saw.

It goes well with the concept
of Thai cuisine

where everything has to be balanced

and all the ingredients
don't overpower each other.

[female customer 2]
Goodness, it's so crunchy!

[Tam] Thai people love the river prawn,

so I just want to showcase it
in a different light.

It's something that reminds us of having
the Thai barbecue when we were younger.

People in Bangkok are now more open

and more willing to explore
and try new things.

This openness is gonna really allow
for younger generations to do the same.

[laughter, applause]

I feel like that brings in
all this creativity

and just bursts of like,
yeah, new creations.

[customers applauding]

[light upbeat music]

Bangkok's nightlife
is very mixed and diverse.

In Thonglor, you would see more refined.

[cheering]

In Khaosan, you would see more
of the wild side.

In this side of the city, Soi Nana,
people behave like

more relaxed.

They treat the bar as their sanctuary,
as the place they trust.

[light upbeat music]

[Makham] Hi!

-Are you okay?
-I'm okay.

[Makham] I'm not okay. Oh, my god!

So, so busy!

[woman laughs]

[Makham] When I first came
to work at Soi Nana,

I didn't know what to expect.

I found that it's very much
a community feel.

I have a lot of mentors.

Working with Niks
is like working with my dad.

[Makham laughs]

[Niks] Makham has come a long way.

She has a lot more confidence.

She still has quite a journey
ahead of her.

[Makham] The thing that I love most is

thinking of a cocktail,
coming up with a story behind it.

I like trying to do something
that someone hasn't tried before.

We like to use this herb you call
Baihuseua, which is tiger ear leaf.

And it has this kind of strange
oregano kind of taste to it.

We use dry vermouth as a base,

and then we use
a little bit of gin and garlic brine.

Adding a little bit more saltiness

will balance out the refreshing mintiness
of the actual leaf.

[Makham in Thai] Cheers.
[laughs]

[women in English]
Cheers!

[Makham] When you make a cocktail,
and you put so much hard work into it,

to have someone say that it's good,

is the most satisfying feeling.

Makham is famous for her cocktails.

[woman] Everyone should come and try them.

All her cocktails have
their own unique signature.

I think bartending forced me
to come out of my shell.

[Makham] You're exaggerating, bro.
[laughs]

Thai people are so friendly
and have big personalities.

It's hard to stay introverted and be shy

because they're going
to pull you out of that hole.

[Niks] Cheers, everyone!

[Makham] If I told my 17-year-old self,

in three years' time,
you're going to be working in a bar…

[laughs]

I wouldn't have believed me.

[cheering]

I think for the longest time, I was lost,
and Bangkok's nightlife saved me.

This is where I'm supposed to be.

Hi!

[Sikharin] Although Bangkok
is always lit up at night,

there are corners hidden in the shadows

that are worth exploring and experiencing.

This place awakens all your five senses.

You smell and taste the food.

Hear the sounds of the night,
and see the neon lights.

It's an experience that you won't get
anywhere else in the world.

It has given rise to new spaces
and new experiences here in Bangkok

where you can express yourself
and be who you are.

[closing theme music]