Long Way Up (2020–…): Season 1, Episode 9 - Colombia, Panama & Costa Rica - full transcript

After their plane is delayed by fog, Ewan and Charley embark on an unforgettable boat journey along the Colombian coast in an old trawler.

♪ Got sun on my face ♪

♪ Sleeping rough on the road ♪

♪ I'll tell you all about it ♪

♪ When I get home ♪

♪ Gonna roll up the sidewalk ♪

♪ Gonna need letting up ♪

♪ Comin' round to meet you ♪

♪ The long way up ♪

[Ewan] We're gonna ride 13,000 miles through 13 countries.

From Ushuaia, in and out of Argentina and Chile, to the Atacama Desert,

heading up to La Paz before we cross Lake Titicaca,

continuing along the Andes to Colombia, over to Panama,

through Central America and Mexico, arriving in Los Angeles 100 days later.

We're gonna give these guys video cameras,

and they're also gonna have cameras with microphones on their crash helmets,

so they can film themselves as they're riding along.

[Ewan] Is this a road? Oh, my God!

[David] A third motorcycle will travel with them,

and on it will be Claudio, our cameraman.

In addition, Russ and I will travel in two electric pickup trucks,

along with cameramen Jimmy,

Anthony and Taylor, who will also help with logistics.

We'll be filming the guys from the vehicles,

linking up with them at borders,

but otherwise, the motorcycles will be on their own.

[Ewan] We've been waiting here for over three hours now,

and we've just heard that our destination, Buenaventura,

has been shut down because of fog.

And it all has a bit of a knock-on effect

because the boat we're supposed to catch is leaving in two hours.

So, it's not looking really very good at all.

But is it possible to land at Buenaventura now with the fog?

[pilot] No problem.

-Yes, it's open. -Oh, good.

[Maxim, in Spanish] So Buenaventura is open?

Yeah, everything is okay.

[Ewan] We finally got the good news we've been waiting for,

but we're cutting it a bit fine...

especially as we've got to load and unload at the other end.

-[Marlon] Ready, guys? -[Ewan] Yes, sir.

Let's go.

[Ewan] We've ridden our bikes a long way since we started,

but now we've hit a bit of a brick wall.

With the roadless Darién Gap blocking our route

between Southern and Central America,

we've got no choice but to go by air and sea to get to our next country, Panama.

Charley and I are in one plane with the three bikes,

and Russ, David and the crew are in the other plane with all the equipment.

[rock music playing]


[airplane whirring]

We're trying to find the other plane.

-I think he must be up here. -[airplane whirring]

What I thought was gonna be easy is obviously difficult.

Oh, hang on.

-[David] There he is right here. -[Russ] Where?

-[David] On the left. -[Russ] Ah.

-[David] There he is. -[Russ cheers]

[all cheer]


[Charley] Wow, that was close.

[Ewan cheers]

[music continues]

[Ewan] It's spectacular flying over the Colombian jungle in these two planes.

It's real Raiders of the Lost Ark stuff.

[music continues]

Pretty cool.

[music stops]

The bikes are all in one piece. They didn't fall over.

So, that's the first leg of our three-part journey to get into Panama.

[truck beeping]

-[Ewan groans] All right. -[Charley] Yeah.

[Ewan] Gracias.

[Charley sighs]

-Right. Next stop, the ferry, yeah? -[Charley] Okay.

[horn honks]

We're heading into proper deepest, darkest Colombia now.

Like, Buenaventura's still connected by road,

whereas where we're going, there's literally no roads in or out.

So, only way to get there is by ship.

[Ewan] The boat's gonna take us along the Pacific coast,

passing a handful of remote villages along the way

on a two-day journey to Bahía Solano in northern Colombia.

They are-- They're super isolated communities,

and a lot of them are slaves that ran away

and set up these isolated communities on the coast, you know,

and just lived off farming and fishing.

[David] Why is Buenaventura still on the no-travel list?

[Maxim] This area in particular because it is a port town,

because it is so isolated.

You know, it's been a hub for paramilitary activity,

for narco activity,

and obviously, um, conflict with the FARC and other--

and, uh, guerrilla groups, you know, that have been around.

-[Charley] There's some boats. -[Ewan] We're going down there?

[Maxim] No.

The boat's down there.

[man speaks Spanish]

-[Charley] There's our boat. -[Ewan] You're kidding me.

-[Maxim] Seriously? -[Charley] That's it. Yeah.


[in Spanish] Hey, my friend. Speaking English?

Castilian, brother.

-[truck beeping] -[chattering]

It's gonna be really interesting. It's gonna be a-- an interesting affair.

[Charley] This one?

This is a-- a wreck.

[Ewan] How do we get it down there?

[Charley] Wow.

There's also, like, 15 people living in this boat.

So many people on it.

This can't be our boat.

This is-- doesn't even look seaworthy.

[Russ] That's not the one that we saw the pictures of.

[Charley] No, it's not.

This is not the boat you're looking for.

Move along, move along.

[Russ] This isn't our boat, is it?

-What? -[Charley] It's not the one in the photos.

The one in the photos is over there.

That one up there. That green one, surely.

[people chattering]

[Claudio] They're already preparing the food for us down there.

-[Ewan] Yeah. -[Claudio chuckles]

-This is it, is it? -This is our boat.

-This is our boat? -[Ewan laughs]


[Russ] This is a rough boat.

There's no-- there's no joking about it. It's a rough old boat.

We're supposed to be on it for two days.

This is, like, gonna have bedbugs, cockroaches, ticks, rats--

[Claudio] Ah, yeah. Wait, we are in the way. It's all going--

Yeah. I mean, they're just putting the bikes on.

It's almost like it's a done deal, you know.

We were trying to negotiate getting in a better boat.

[indistinct shouting]

So, there's no going back now.

[Ewan] My God!

Oh, no. He's pushing my bike alone. It's very, very heavy.

[indistinct shouting]

I think they're used to doing this with scooters.

I don't know that they're used to doing this with Harley-Davidsons.

[indistinct shouting]

-[indistinct] -[chattering]

The reason they're rushing is 'cause the tide's going out.

[Claudio chuckles]

And if we don't get it on, we can't get the boat out.

[Ewan] Here he goes.

[indistinct shouting]

[Ewan] Let's just get in, shall we?

They're having a little bit of an issue in the machine room.

You may wanna come and have a look at it.

You're not gonna believe this.

They're having a little battery trouble, of all things. [chuckles]

Oh, batteries.

Oh, they can't get the main engine going.

[motor rumbles]

If you look down there, you can see that battery there.

They've used that to start the main engine.

And it started-- The engine started within a--

Like, within a heartbeat, it started.

So, that's a good sign.

I loved that they've borrowed the battery from that boat over there...

-[Ewan] To jump-start. -...to jump-start this boat.

[in Spanish] Ciudad Mutis. Nuquí, Chocó. Over.

[indistinct shouting]

[Ewan] It's just the noise.

I love all the voices and the rabble. Isn't it great?


[David] This is-- This looks nice.

You said it. Step aboard. Come on.

This will be a shot that'll be difficult to get at sea.

[Jimmy] That's true.

Wow, look at the... birds flying over the waves. Oh.

And now a fisherman passing in the distance. Oh, wow.

-Captain, the ship's all ready, sir. Okay. -Ah, good.

Unframe the main sp-lame and f-frame the plain stints.

Okay, I'll flutter the flames, sir.

Bah. Argh.

-[Jimmy chuckles] -[Ewan mutters]

It's sort of a mix between James Mason and a pirate.

-[radio crackles] -[speaks Spanish]

Oh, look. We're off, we're off, we're off!


[water rushing]


[Charley] This is my cabin.

There are three bunks. Here.

Three on here.

I'm gonna just try and sleep on this middle one,

but I have chosen the only cabin which doesn't have a fan.

And which is by the... exhaust.

[motor whirring]

Pretty crazy, huh? [chuckles]

[Ewan] Oh, my God. It's so good.

[Charley chuckles]

Oh, my God. It's really delicious.

I mean, that is fresh fish.

-[Ewan] Yeah, this is great. -Yeah.

-[woman, indistinct] -[Russ] More fish?

-[Ewan] I'm so happy. I love it. -[Russ] Are you?


-Yeah, it's delicious. Yeah, really good. -This is actually amazing.

[motor whirring]

[Ewan] Oh, yes. Charley Boorman.

-He is in the house. -Speak of--

How are you doing?

Very well. Yeah.

It's a bit like what it might be like in prison.

Well, it-- I thought it seemed familiar.

It's got a little prison vibe, doesn't it?

[Charley chuckles] Really does.

Gonna go to the bathroom.

[Charley] Ah, okay.

[motor continues]

[Ewan] She's noisy, but she's safe.

Here we go.

This is how the bathroom works.

I guess it's just constant pumping of seawater into here and, um...

This is where-- [chuckles]

This is where I shall leave you for now.

Join us next week on Long Way Up to see if the boys make it to port.

[traditional folk music playing]

Good morning.

Um, I didn't sleep particularly well.

I was sliding around, like... forever on this bed.

-[motor whirring] -This was my view this morning.

Huge, huge ocean.

[music continues]

You know when you're in a small boat, and you go out, and you can't see land,

you suddenly feel very small?

It always takes, like, a day or so to get your sea legs, I suppose.

-[Charley] Morning. -Morning!

I have a coffee in my hand,

and I was going down the corridor, and I went like that.

-And I went whoo, whoo. -[Charley chuckles]

And I didn't spill a drop.

[Ewan] I love the boat.

Great food cooked fresh every day. Mainly fish, of course.

[woman laughs]

She's laughing at me. I didn't want any fish.

I know. I just can't face fish first thing in the morning.

-You not gonna eat? -[David] No, I'm fine.

Muchas gracias.

[Ewan] Many of the crew on this boat have spent their whole adult life at sea.

[in Spanish] It's like a... like a source of life.

It's something that, once you're in this life,

you get so attached to it that you don't want to leave anymore.

It's something special... for me.

[in Spanish] This has been my job since I was a young lad.

We grew up among fishermen.

My siblings and I grew up fishing.

So it's my profession.

And now on January 16th, I'll turn 85.

-[in English] Yeah! -[man laughs]

[David] This boat is a sweetie.

Whenever anybody says you shouldn't go there,

it always ends up being the best place to be. [chuckles]

[Ewan] This is why we do these trips. For this. That's why I love it.

'Cause you're only ever gonna be on a boat like that with those people, and...

It's just crazy. It's so fun.

[Charley] Oh, look at that land! Oh, my God, I love land.

[indistinct shouting]

[Ewan] All along this coast is pretty much uninhabited,

but there are a few villages here and there,

so we've asked if we can check them out.

Like a gazelle.

The cooks actually stop off here to pick up supplies for each trip.

Have I got a hood? Yes, I've got a hood.

-[woman laughs] -[motor whirring]

[Ewan] This is known as the Chocó region,

and it's apparently one of the wettest places on earth.

The village we're headed to is called Nuquí.

[Ewan] It's crazy, isn't it? Right in the middle of--

Well, in the coastland, this is still a community here.

I don't think there's any roads here. Everyone just comes by boat.

[speaks Spanish]

[rain pattering]

-[Ewan] Hey, so you want of that? -[Charley] Yeah, let's do it.

[Ewan] Wow, what a high street.


Your shop's beautiful. Bueno, bueno.

I like the, um, skull and crossbones with a cig in his mouth.

You know, when we get back to the boat-- Have we got--

There's no towels, are there?

Uh, yeah. I don't have a towel, yeah.

Well, maybe we should buy some towels.


Gracias. Thanks, mate.

-[Ewan] Hola. -[woman] Hola.

[all laugh]

[Ewan] I love it. I love this place.

I love all the col-- how colorful everything is.

[in Spanish] Here, you have everything. Everything.

If you place a plantain sucker in the soil,

six months later it's ready to harvest.

And if you go to the water, there's fish too.

-Gracias, señor. -[Amaraldes] Bueno.

[Ewan] It was a really nice place to walk around.

Just lots of friendly people

and totally different from what we've seen.

You know, it totally felt like Afro-Caribbean. You know?

Oh, look at this.

What's that? Moonshine?

-[in Spanish] This has alcohol. -[Maxim, in Spanish] What is it?

It's viche.

-[Ewan] Viche. -[Maxim] So, this is sugarcane alcohol.

-Is it? Let's smell it. Let's smell it. -[Maxim] Have a smell. Have a sniff.

-Then you won't see me for a week. -[Maxim chuckles]

The good news, he didn't drink any. The bad news...

Oh, my goodness. Whoo!

-A little bit strong. Yes. -[Charley] That is strong.

[upbeat music playing]

[Ewan] I'm glad we got off the boat.

It was worth seeing this town, wasn't it? Big time.


-[Maxim] Ready, guys? -Whoo!

[Claudio] Aw.

[Ewan] Whoo!


[Ewan] Oh. Whoo! Oh.

[motor whirring]

[Ewan] Harley-Davidson have sorted out the parts I need for my bike,

but the quickest way to get them to us means shipping them to Costa Rica,

not to Panama.

When we get to Panama...

I'm gonna go with my bike on a truck to get it into Costa Rica.


[Ewan] I just like the idea of taking care of my own bike,

but you can do Panama for both of us.

Yeah, that sounds-- That sounds good.

I'm gonna miss you. [sobs]

I'll miss you too.

-But it'd be a nice adventure. -What's that?

[Ewan] We've chartered an Antonov cargo plane

that will take the bikes first to Medellín and then on to Panama.

And from there, I will have to take my bike to Costa Rica

to collect and fit the Harley parts

and hopefully get my bike back on the road.

5:00 a.m. We're just docking. It's really sticky and hot, isn't it?

-[indistinct shouting] -[grunting]

The Antonov is just a cargo plane,

and it's not allowed to take passengers, uh, internationally across borders.

So, it goes straight to Panama City with the bikes,

and I want to be as quick as possible getting my bike to Costa Rica.

So, I'm going to see if I can stay on the Antonov...

land in Medellín, say goodbye to you, and then carry on with it to Panama City.

-Is that looking like it might happen? -Mm, we'll see.

-Okay. -Yeah.

[Charley] All right!

-[David] Colombia! Whoo-hoo! -[Charley] Colombia, here we come!

-[Ewan] Oh, is that it? -[Charley] No.

Oh, my God. That is a crashed airplane.

Our plane was supposed to be here,

but because we haven't paid the bill yet, it hasn't even taken off.

So, we're just trying to organize that now.

[Charley] Yes.

[Maxim] Um, bikes are unloaded.

They're safe there. We've got policemen watching them.

All the kit is getting unloaded in there. Most of it's already in there,

and we can basically do what we want until the plane arrives.

So, we've got a couple of hours to kill.

-[ukulele playing softly] -♪ I know, I know you belong ♪

♪ To somebody new ♪

♪ But tonight You belong to me ♪

♪ Night, you belong to me ♪


-[ukulele music stops] -[Ewan chuckles]

[all clap, cheer]

[Charley] It was lovely.

[Ewan] Well, that's killed two minutes, only another hour and 58 until departure.

[waves lapping]

Luckily, there's a beach not far away.

It's amazing to be here in these remote parts of Colombia.

I definitely wanna come back here.

Any word from our Antonov? Has it taken off?

No, let me get on that right now.

Wasn't it meant to be here...

-two hours ago? -[Russ] Three hours ago.

[Ewan] The plane's landed already, so we'd better get a move on.

[indistinct shouting]

[Charley] Yeah, okay, we've got the ramp.

[Russ] One minute, we're relaxing, having beers on the beach and playing around.

Next minute, the Antonov is actually here.

So, we could have been here earlier possibly but anyway.

There's nothing we can do about that.

[indistinct shouting]

[Charley] Right.


[man grunts]

[Ewan] I still don't know if I'm gonna be allowed to travel all the way there today.

-Definitely helps if we hurry up. -[Russ] Is it possible?

It is possible.

He has to get authorization from Bogotá. Sooner we leave, the better.

[Ewan] I love this plane.

It's a real bit of solid Soviet engineering.

[imitates trumpet]

[muffled] Bombs away.

[Charley] This is Russia's finest.

Funny enough, they're not allowed to fly in, um, European or American airspace.

So, that sort of tells you the whole story, doesn't it?

This is for you since you're traveling by yourself with the three bikes...

-[pilot, indistinct] -...uh, separated.

So, as soon as we arrive, I think you-- you're gonna stay with them.

You're doing the customs and everything.

And that jacket will help you to not get lost, I think.

[pilot, indistinct]

[María, indistinct]

I'm gonna be doing immigration's work with them...

and then as soon as-- uh, when the immigration's done,

we're gonna carry on to Panama City tonight.

[dramatic music playing]

[airplane whirring]

-[Charley chuckles] -[Ewan] Don't be like that.

So, let me just run by. I stay here...

-[Maxim] So, yeah, I can-- Yeah. -With the guys.

We can hang around until customs' process is completely finished.

It's just immigration that you have to be on your own for.

-[Ewan] Okay, good. -[Maxim] Let's go, Ewan.

[airplane whirring]

[Ewan] We got 40 minutes to clear customs.

[speaking Spanish]

[in Spanish] They put it on the bus.

-[Maxim speaking Spanish] -[in Spanish] What happens with the bikes?

Do we have to unload them to go through customs?

[customs officer] Yes, of course.

The three of them have to be taken off and then back on the plane again?

[customs officer] This is tomorrow.

-[Maxim] Tomorrow? -[María speaks Spanish]

-[María] Tomorrow? -[customs officer speaks Spanish]

You won't leave now?

Okay. So, let me talk to them.

[Ewan] I guess I'm not going anywhere tonight.

[raspberry] Just a bit bummed.

-[Jimmy] You were so ready to go. -I know.

You were like, "Bye, guys. Okay, see you."

I know. I said all the goodbyes. Embarrassing now.

Well, here I am on my own. Tout seul.


The first day I've woken up in the hotel right next to the airport

where we did all the paperwork for the bikes last night

after not being allowed to carry on with them to...

Panama City.

So, I said goodbye to the guys last night,

and it's a sort of odd feeling to be...

on my own now.

I should be able to make it to Panama City today,

and from there, I'll drive all the way to Costa Rica

to get the Harley parts in San José.

Tonight, Charley and the crew will take a commercial flight to Panama City,

and then he'll ride his bike to Costa Rica while I'm fixing mine.

Yeah, hopefully, you'll be pretty close to the border with Costa Rica by tonight.

-[Ewan] Yeah. -Yeah.

[Ewan] If it goes smooth-- I mean, I don't know.

Of course, these things always take longer than we think.

Like last night, we thought it would be...

We thought for a minute I would get on that 6:30 plane, but--

-[laughs] -[chuckling] Yes.

[Maxim] Hey, Ewan.

-It's cargo, no? -Wrong place, yeah.

[Ewan] Ah, there we are.

The bikes are through here.


[Ewan] Now the pilots have arrived.

All the flight crew are here.

Just have to have the bikes checked by the narcotics officers,

and then we'll head to Panama City.


I'm watching the dog doing its work.

It's just amazing how it sniffs at every nook and cranny of the bike

and gets its nose up and under the bike wheels and the engines.

All over the place.

And it didn't wanna play with, um, Claudio's laughing llama.


Well, I think the policeman, the narcotics officer,

is happy that the-- there's no drugs in the bikes or in the bags,

so they've wrapped them all up.

And now I have to go and clear passport control in the airport.

The only way I'm allowed to fly legally across borders with cargo

is if I become an actual crew member.

I just got my credentials,

so I'm now legitimately crew master for this flight.

On the Antonov.

I am officially a member of the flight crew.


Just a member of the crew. Just be the cargo master.


[Ewan] Gracias.

Start the engines, and we should be on our way.

I'm really excited to get my bike to San José and get it back on the road,

but I'm bummed to be missing the rest of Colombia and Panama.

[Charley] All the luck, Ewan.

Before I leave Colombia,

I really wanna take a look around Medellín.

So, where are we off to?

[María] We're going to the Comuna 13, which is one of the neighborhoods

that used to be really dangerous in the '80s.

It is like an example of how the 'narco culture' changed...

-for good. -[Charley] Right.

[María] And how, when they invested in public infrastructure...

...it helped change the mindset of the people

in the neighborhood and from everywhere.

[Charley] I was told that District 13 was an absolute no-go area

when the likes of Pablo Escobar were in power.

At the end of 2002, the police steamed in using tanks to clear the area,

and the fighting finally finished.

I could do that if I wanted to.

It's now become a popular tourist attraction

with people flocking in to see the murals, artwork and symbols of hope.

[cans rattle]

[María] This is one of the most important graffities in the area.

[in Spanish] This mural represents a crucial moment...

in the Comuna, the Operation Orión.

It was one of the largest military operations here in Medellín,

especially here in our area and in the streets that you guys have been visiting.

[Charley] Wow, fabulous.

The hills are so steep here that to try and help the neighborhood,

they put in escalators to help the locals get up and down to their homes.

[guide] The electric stairs,

they are the unique electric stairs in the world in a place like this.

In a place like a favela.

[Charley] So, this attracted the tourists coming here.


[stammers] And that, I'm guessing, helped change the community

because it brings money into the community, I suppose.

-Yes. Exactly. -Oh, wow.

[Charley] Famously, Bill Clinton paid a visit during one of his trips to Colombia.

The only American president to do so.

[María] From being, like, the most dangerous cities in the world

to be this is like a huge example for all of us as Colombians.

A stronger belief in how investing in arts and culture...

can change a whole society.

This is the proof of it.


[airplane whirring]

[Ewan] It's a rather wet welcome to Central America.

[rain pattering]

Bikes are gonna go down the ramp onto these pallets,

and then they're taken to customs on these pallets.

I didn't know about that.


[rain continues]

It's rainy and bloody hot and sticky.

There's your bike going, Charley. Nothing I can do about it now.

Did everything I could for her, you know?

[cell phone rings]


I'm all right. I just managed to get through. I just got through.

I had to go through to get immigration, but I had to go and get a--

I had to go and become officially a member of their crew, you know.

So, I got my badge.

Yeah, all good. All the bikes are all in one piece.

Well, I'm just keen to get it there as quickly as possible

so that they can fix it.

[Ewan] I've got a 500-mile journey to meet the Harley engineers

who, I hope, can get this bike up and running again.

[Charley] Today while Ewan is heading for Costa Rica,

I've arrived in Panama City.

I picked up my bike, and I plan to have a look around.

Especially its canal, which it's famous for.

[ship horn blowing]

[Charley] Wow.

That is big.

That is really, really big.

[Charley] This canal is a shortcut for ships

to go between the Pacific and the Atlantic.

[Charley] I'm quite blown away.

When we came over the bridge here and then you see this place here,

it's quite mind-blowing to see it.

Yeah, it's pretty amazing.

[Charley] How many ships can go through?

Okay, these locks were designed for about 14 vessels per day maximum.

[Charley] But what does it cost?

A container vessel like that, if it fully loaded, $1.2 million.

-For a container. -1.2 million to go one way?

-[Ilya] Yes. One way. -One way.

[Charley] It makes so much money for Panama

that these new locks were built to increase the capacity

and were opened in 2016 at the cost of $5.5 billion.

Basically this has been your baby from the very beginning.

[Ilya] I was one of the four that were leading the project,

and then in 2012, I was chief engineer of the construction.

So, it was great.

[Charley] How are you influencing women coming through this business?

There were some people that kind of doubted my appointment,

and I bought myself a pink hard hat.

And the pink hard hat became very famous.

That was not the intent. The intent was for me to tell these people,

"Hey, I'm a woman. I can do this job."

There's a big movement now

to-- to encourage women to climb the corporate ladder.

There's a lot of studies that have proven

that when you have a more diverse board making decisions, industry thrives.

-[alarm beeping] -Oh! What's happening now?

That means this gate is gonna open,

and this vessel is gonna come through to the next chain.

Do you see that the water level now is the same? Both.

[Charley] Wow. Wow!

-Oh, my God, it's huge! -Yeah!

[alarm beeping continues]

It's the exact same principle from the original locks.

[ship horn blowing in tune of "When You Wish Upon a Star"]

Oh, wow.

Disney! [laughs]

[Charley] Hello. Hello, little one.

Where are you guys from?

-[man] Uh, London. -From London?

-[Ilya] Oh! -Oh, wow. Okay.

Are you doing another round the world?

Oh, yeah. We're going-- doing Long Way Up.

Yeah, on the electric bikes.

-Can you believe it? -Oh, that's awesome.

[Charley] Just plugging in.

What an incredible place and an inspiring woman.

But I haven't quite finished with the canal just yet.

Well, this is something that I've wanted to do for ever such a long time.

So, my father made a film here called The Tailor of Panama.

He made it with Pierce Brosnan and Jamie Lee Curtis.

And there's a scene--

He's swimming in the-- in the water here, and this huge tanker goes past.

And I said, "Dad, look, I'm off to Panama."

And he says, "Well, you gotta recreate this shot."

And now here we are, and look, just--

What's-- what's that over my shoulder?

You know? Just-- I don't know.

Huge, isn't it?

-[ship horn blowing] -[Charley chuckles]

Don't panic, Charley. [pants]

It's just for you, Dad.

Um, thank you for being my father

and the inspiration to Mr. Adventurer and Mr. Traveler.

Got it all from you, Dad.


-[Jimmy] Whoo! -[Charley] Oh, my God!

[waves crashing]


Not expecting that! [laughs]

-[ship horn blows] -[Charley chuckles]

[Ewan] I'm wondering how Charley's getting on in Panama.

I know he's visiting the site where his dad made that movie.

But I'm on my own little adventure through Costa Rica,

and I'm thinking about my family too.

["So Far Away" by Dire Straits playing]

[mouthing] ♪ You're so far away from me ♪

♪ You're so far I just can't see ♪

[normal] I'm desperate to get to San José.

Not just to get my bike fixed but because I'm gonna see my daughter, Jamyan.

I tell this story sometimes

because I've got an absolute example of a decision changing my life.

And not only my life but Jamyan's life

and my family's life and her sisters' and her mother's life.

When we were in Mongolia, we'd got a week into it.

-Four, five days into it. -[Ewan groans on video]

And we were struggling 'cause it was wet, and it was muddy,

and we were getting 20 miles a day and...

Although at the same time,

we were experiencing the beauty of Mongolia

and the remoteness of life there

and the way that people live their life there,

we were also frustrated by the mileage,

and we were heading for Ulaanbaatar, which was 1,000 miles away,

and we're starting to feel like we were never gonna get there.

And we had one of those dips

where you lose sight of what's important, I suppose.

And we got the maps out, and we were looking at the maps going,

look-- And I said it.

I said, "Charley, if we turn left, we can be in Russia in a day

and we can be back on that road on the map."

We looked at this left or straight-on decision.

And, um, I remember calling David

and I got him on the phone and said, "Look, we're thinking about

turning left and getting out of Mongolia." And we would have missed Ulaanbaatar.

And David was immediately very spiritual about it.

Don't miss the stuff that you love about this thing.

'Cause this is once in a lifetime, so...

[sniffs] So that's all I'd say.

[Ewan] And as he was speaking to me, I immediately knew he was right.

[Ewan on video] But then maybe the point is that it is a struggle,

and that we just struggle on.

Well, we did carry on, and we did get to Ulaanbaatar.

And Charley and I went to a street shelter for children.

And we were both massively moved by it.

[Ewan on video] Nothing could have prepared me

for how young the children were there.

There was girls there that were two years old.

This little one here, who was found two weeks ago,

will only talk to this girl here.

And they seem to have found some bond together.

[Ewan] We left that day,

but I couldn't stop thinking about that little girl.

It took nearly two years, but eventually, we adopted Jamyan.

So, it's like one of those decisions in life where you think--

I could look back at that and go,

"That would've--

that would've changed everything, you know, if we'd done that." [sniffs]

And if we'd turned left, I wouldn't have met her, you know.

So, that's pretty amazing.

[chuckles] Sorry.

But it's a big moment. It was a big moment, funnily.

After months on the road, I get to see Jamyan in a couple of days

if I can get my bike fixed in time.


-How are you doing? -Good to see you.

-This is Kalee. -Hi, Kalee. How are you?

[both] Nice to meet you.

[Ewan] Rachel and Kalee have traveled from Harley-Davidson in Milwaukee

to get the bike ready.

So, describe what's gonna happen.

So, the frame's gonna come off, swingarm's gonna come off,

and then it gets separated from the EVPT.

-Yeah. -[indistinct]

Bloody hell.

[tools rattling, whirring]

I can ride a unicycle.

Not very far, but I can ride a unicycle.

Scares me to death.

-Oh, my God. -[Kalee chuckles]

I feel like I just watched someone being operated on, and I like it.

I'm so impressed at the way it comes apart.

[Ewan] It's been amazing watching the bike stripped down,

and now we're gonna work late into the night

to put it all back together again

and hopefully be back on the road tomorrow.

[Charley] While Ewan is fixing his bike,

I've been told about this extraordinary guy.

Pachanga, yeah. Pachanga, Pachanga.

[Charley] Meet Pachanga.

He's 85 years old and still riding motorbikes.

-Wow. -Yeah.

Wow! You've got some amazing stuff here. [gasps]


I remember some of these posters growing up.

-[Pachanga] Yeah, no? -Yeah.

When did you get into Harley-Davidson?

[Pachanga] When I was 14 years old, I had an uncle.

-He had an, uh, automobile shop. -Mm-hmm.

And he had one Harley, but one of the first 1940s Harleys.

He teach me to ride up to the pier.

And from that day, Harley-Davidson addict. Yeah.

-[Charley] Oh, wow! -Yeah.

[Charley] That is beautiful.

[Pachanga grunting]

[Charley] Oh, there she is. Let's see if she'll start.

-[Pachanga grunts] -[engine starts]

-Listen. Listen, listen here. Listen. -Okay.

[engine runs melodically]


I love it. I love it.


[Pachanga cheering]

[Charley] I hope I'm still doing that when I'm 85.

[cheering continues]

[Ewan] The bike was worked on all night to get it ready.

All right. Back on the road, man.

[Ewan laughs] Whoo-hoo!

This bike is really sweet.

-All right, mate! -How are you, mate?

Look at that. Look at the bike.

How are you, guys?

Good to see you.

You just go around the-- It's behind this building here.

You can't miss my bike.

Oh, yeah. There we are.


There's another adventure in adventures of adventures.

-[Ewan] Hey! -Bloody hell.

All right, mate. How are you?

[Ewan] Oh, I missed you.

I'm gonna have to sort of let go of my fatherly worries

and let her embed with the crew and let her just be--

You know, help Doctor Karen or help Jimmy or help whoever.

And I'm just gonna have to sort of, you know, not be too big of a daddy.

I'm gonna have to let her...

be a grown-up and that's, you know-- [laughs]

It's so good to be back on the bike,

and I'm so looking forward to seeing Jamyan.

[upbeat music playing]