Long Way Up (2020–…): Season 1, Episode 6 - full transcript

♪ Got sun on my face ♪

♪ Sleeping rough on the road ♪

♪ I'll tell you all about it ♪

♪ When I get home ♪

♪ Gonna roll up the sidewalk ♪

♪ Gonna need letting up ♪

♪ Comin' round to meet you ♪

♪ The long way up ♪

[Ewan] We're gonna ride 13,000 miles
through 13 countries.

From Ushuaia, in and out of Argentina
and Chile, to the Atacama Desert,

heading up to La Paz
before we cross Lake Titicaca,

continuing along the Andes to Colombia,
over to Panama,

through Central America and Mexico,
arriving in Los Angeles 100 days later.

We're gonna give these guys video cameras,

and they're also gonna have cameras
with microphones on their crash helmets

so they can film themselves
as they're riding along.

[Ewan] Is this a road? Oh, my God!

[David] A third motorcycle
will travel with them,

and on it will be Claudio, our cameraman.

In addition, Russ and I will travel
in two electric pickup trucks,

along with cameramen Jimmy,

Anthony and Taylor,
who will also help with logistics.

We'll be filming the guys
from the vehicles,

linking up with them at borders,

but otherwise,
the motorcycles will be on their own.

I hope they're not stuck out there
in the middle of nowhere.

- They should have stayed with us.
- Yeah.

It was a mistake to go.

[man] How are you doing, guys?

We're unfortunately out of battery.

[man] Wow. Still it is quite far away?

- [David] Yeah. So, another 20 miles.
- [man] Yeah, it is.

I definitely need a tow charge.

- [Ewan] David will have broken down.
- Yeah.

- [Ewan] Or run out of gas.
- Or run out of juice.

They'll be trying to tow charge him
on these roads.



Yeah, one over here.


- We're just gonna take this slowly.
- Yep.

You go out in front.
He's obviously second, the Sprinter,

and I'm just gonna be
slowly limping behind. Okay?

- See how we do.
- Si.

- Yeah.
- Thank you, guys.

All right. Let's try to get there.

If you don't believe in God,
tonight's the time to do it. Okay?

[man] Yes.

I don't have glasses.
I've just frozen my windshield.

Funny thing about these trips
is that usually things are okay.

But when they're not okay,
they're not okay quickly.

[Russ] Can't see anything
'cause of the dust.

But we can see the light of the hotel
in front of us.

I think we just gotta get it home.
You know what I mean?

You're so close, Russ.
I just... just made it.

[Russ] If we didn't get
both these cars back in,

we would have been really stuck.

You're here, man. You're here.

By the skin of our teeth.


What a mad journey that was, huh?

At least we got to the chargers,

but I'm not sure what's happened
to that suspension.

But anyway, we're here.
That's the main thing.

- [laughs]
- [sputters]

Dust, cold... madness.

You know you're at, uh, 5,000 meters
when, as opposed to having a minibar,

they have a freakin'
medicine cabinet here.

You know? And oxygen tanks.

That is a brutal road
for those guys to ride tomorrow morning.

But for Charley to sit on that bike
and that washboard for 30 miles

and what's coming.

Yeah, we have no idea
what tomorrow will bring. Right?

[Ewan] We've got about 60 miles
of these tracks until we reach tarmac.

This is a little bit more than
we were expecting, but we'll get there.

We just have to ride it out
at its own level, you know what I mean?

Just weaving all over the place.

[Charley] Okay. Oh, it's very sandy here.

Come on, Charley. Come on, Charley.
It's okay. It's okay.

It's okay, Charley. Ooh.

What was that?

[sighs] Freaks me out a bit
'cause of my legs.

They feel a bit kind of, [sighs] you know.
I've got these smashed up legs.

[Ewan] We've heard about this lake.
The locals call it the blood of the gods.

[Charley] It's incredibly red, isn't it?

[Ewan] Apparently those flamingos
are naturally white,

but their feathers get tinted by the lake.

[Charley pants]

That mountain behind is beautiful.

[Ewan] I do these trips

and then I come home
with hundreds of photographs of my bike.

[Charley chuckles] Wow.

The main... the main thing is
that Charley'll never talk about it,

but his legs are so vulnerable
'cause he's had two horrible smashes,

and his legs are full of rods
and titanium bolts and screws and...

If the bike falls over on his leg
and it bre...

It really could mean the end of his leg.
You know what I mean?

Must be at the back of his mind
all the time,

like, when he's wobbling around on this.

He's just unbelievably ballsy
that he doesn't...

He... He just knuckles down and does it.

He's not unaware of that,

yet he's able to, sort of,
conquer it and move on,

which is very brave.

[David] This style of traveling
is exhilarating at one level.

It could be a lot of fun as well.
But it's very taxing, you know.

People don't sleep well.
They don't eat well.

It's dangerous, you know,
being on a motorcycle like that

in those conditions.

Ewan doesn't do a lot of off-road riding.

Charley's had a couple of bad accidents

which prevent him
from standing up on the pegs.

He hasn't been standing up

'cause, like, it's too much pressure
on some of his broken bones.

[tires rattling, squealing]

[Ewan] Ooh, oh, oh,
it's a little soft here.

- It's okay. It's okay. It's okay.
- [Charley] It's so soft.

[Ewan laughs]

- [Charley] We're at 14,500 feet.
- [Ewan] The altitude. Yeah.

[Charley inhales] Okay.

Look at that mountain!
It's just... [sighs] It's biblical.

[exclaims] Got hair in my eyes.

[sighs] You little beauty.
Come on, you beauty. Here we go.

Come on, you beauty.
Come on, going up over here!

[Charley groans]

[Ewan] I don't know who's more scared,
you or me, when you make those noises.

[shakily] Oh, I don't like it.

I don't like the sand.
Oh. It's really sandy, man.

[Charley] Ooh, ooh, ooh.

So close, but yet so far.

[Ewan] Now the other road looks better.

Just can't win. Light hands, light hands.

Track through.

Look ahead with your eyes.

Just steer the bike with your eyes.

[Charley] I wanna be over there.
I wanna go over there.

I'm gonna go over there!
[breathes heavily]

Little... little... little soft... [grunts]

[Ewan] Oh, Jesus. Okay, Charley's down.

Okay, he's down. He's down.


It's okay. It's okay.

You okay?

Are you okay? Have you hurt yourself?

[Charley] No, my rib.

A little bit. [breathes heavily]

I just felt my rib a little bit here
just go click.

- [Ewan] No.
- But it's fine.

- It's fine. I think I'm okay.
- [indistinct]

Yeah, I can breathe. [breathes heavily]

- [Ewan] Okay?
- Yeah.


[Ewan] Hang on. Maybe I should
get to your side, and we both lift.

You all right? I thought...
I was worried about your leg being stuck.

- No. I'm... still up.
- Okay.

One, two, three. That's it.

- [Charley] Okay.
- Okay? [laughs]

[Charley] I was falling, I was thinking
about how everything was rattling away.

And I was slowing down, but I was...

But I still had
the throttle slightly open,

[chuckling] and so it just made it worse.

[Ewan] Yeah, it's unbelievable.
It's tough, this...

[Charley] Okay.
Well, I fell down... stupidly.

I was just very nervous of my legs,
trying to get them up and out of the way.

[Ewan] You can look
at all the maps at home,

but until you're sitting on the bike
in this landscape,

you don't really know
what it's gonna be like.

We knew Bolivia might be demanding,

but I wasn't imagining
it would be this hard.

[Charley] Suddenly you feel
very vulnerable on the motorbike.

On the car, it's... it's a lot easier
because you've got four wheels.

So, it's not so treacherous
if you get into a bit of deep sand.

[Ewan] Well, we're in God knows where,

and we still have
many more miles to go here.

I can't be certain
this is the proper road ahead.

[David] This last piece
of really difficult roads...

It's not road.
It's not road at all. It's just tracks.

Even if it is tracks, just openness.

I'm sure Ewan and Charley are struggling
with these ruts.

But I really shouldn't have left
without letting them fix the hand brake.

[Ewan] We haven't seen anyone
since that hot spring.

- We're really in it now, mate.
- Yeah.

[Ewan] Oh. [groans]

- Yeah, lost her there. Almost lost it.
- Wow.

- [Ewan] Got her back though.
- You got her back, baby.

Right over to the other side.
It was like...

I thought you were going then.
I really did.

[Ewan laughs]

[Charley] It's Dave, I think.

[Ewan pants]

[Ewan] Hello, guys.

[David] Why don't you go in front
and then we'll...

Can we shoot over the top or no?

[Anthony] Dave, parking brake.

[Ewan] Oh, my God. Dave, the car. The car.

Oh, my God. Oh, my God. Oh, my God.
Dave, watch! Be careful!

Dave, be careful! Be careful!


Oh, my God. You okay?

[David] I think so.
I don't have a parking brake.

[engine screeching]

[Ewan] Ooh.



I basically don't have any brakes. And I...
We went to let them work on it last night.

And I rented a car this morning,
and it didn't show up.

The Rivian guys told me not to drive it.
Of course I didn't listen.

[Ewan] The important thing is
that nobody got hurt.

I'm quite dizzy. [sighs]


[Ewan] That's a big, big, big rock.

Let's jack it up,
'cause it's wedged on it.

I think if we can come up two inches...

- Then what? Try and manhandle the rock?
- [David] Effectively, right? I mean...

Maybe drag the rock out of the way,
if we can get it up... enough.

Yeah, I just wonder
if it's too big of a rock.

The thing we definitely have to do
is wedge those two wheels,

- so it won't roll back again.
- Yeah.

Let me just see if...
Let me just see if I go higher.

I'm worried that this is
not gonna take the weight

and just... and fall over.

It was just... it was quite scary to see
'cause David doesn't have a hand brake.

And suddenly... He wasn't in the car.
The car was running backwards.

Anthony was on the roof with the camera.

Maxim was in the front seat,
and the car was rolling backwards.

It took me a minute for my brain
to kind figure out what was happening.

Then Dave started running inside the door,
which was moving down the hill,

trying to get in. But he couldn't get in.

- [David] Hey, Mac or Charley?
- [both] Yeah?

Will you guys look at that rock
and just see its...

- This rock?
- ...if there's a little clearance?

[Ewan] If we don't
get David's truck going,

then they could all be stuck out here
in the desert.

So, it's all hands on deck.

I think that must be the suspension
or something.

- Is that fluid in the suspension?
- [Ewan] Keep going, Dave.

I don't think we're gonna
be able to move the rock.

[David] And all of the tires
are wedged nicely.

- [Ewan] Just have a look...
- That was nice.

Yeah, go ahead. You do that.
Give me one more if you can, Mac.


- This is my baby, man. She got me here.
- [Ewan] Take your time.

Come on, baby. [grunts]

[Ewan] There's no hurry.
Just take your time.

[Charley] Yeah, Dave, don't overdo it.
You're at altitude.

If we drag this out now...

as we drag it out,
this car might drop onto the rock again.

Your jack's not 100% secure,
so just be... yeah, be very...

We don't want that falling on your head.

We have to pull the rock this way.

Yeah, that way. My hope is
if we can move it eight inches...

You tell me, Mac.
Do you think we can get it this way?

Maybe you're right.

Well, we got a bit more play on that jack.

Let's go up one more.
Let's see what one more looks like.

- Okay.
- Oh, my God! That's clear!

It's clear.
But we're still not out of the woods.

- How secure is the jack? Are we good?
- [David] I would say it's pretty good.

- It's not great. It's pretty good.
- [Maxim] It's not amazing.

Hey, Mac. I don't want you underneath.

Well, we need to get the rope
around the rock this way.

I'm gonna do that right now. Okay?

Mac, be careful under there.

- Wait, no. Hey. Do it again. Do it again.
- We got it. We got it.

- Everybody stay... calm and cool.
- [Ewan] Take your time. Take your time.

Take your time.

Oh, shit. People's heads are under there.

Okay, let me get back.

[David] Yay! All right,
stay clear from the car, okay, everybody?

[Charley] Wait, um...

Stay clear. Let me go to a flat spot.

- Mac, please get out from there. Oh.
- [Ewan] But it's not dripping anymore.

We'll clear the wheels of rocks.

- [Charley] Something's fallen off as well.
- [David] Yeah.

Um, quite a big thing has fallen off.

Dave, do you wanna just have a look
at that big bit of metal

- that's lying on the floor?
- [David] Pick that up. Okay.

Yeah, we're good. Come on, guys.
It's either gonna drive or it's not.

[Charley] Yep. Yep.

Tire didn't look very good.
I don't think he should drive it.

And there's a whole... the whole
big nugget of metal. It was gone as well.

Anyway, look, it's his decision.

Because right now, we're still all safe,
and we're all still alive.

- We've got a long way to go.
- Yeah.

[David] Oh, my God. Well, I'm happy
that we're rolling a little bit.

I just don't wanna wait anymore.
I wanna get going.

- Hey...
- [Ewan] What do you think this could be?

- So, if he loses a wheel, we...
- Yes.

- It's more damage. It's even worse.
- [Maxim] Serious.

It worked for a minute.

Yeah, sometimes taking two minutes
can save you a lot of time.

I've got it. I've got it, Maxim.
I don't wanna stay out here in the desert.

When the truck is rolling,
you gotta keep it rolling.

These are prototypes,
and we've been very hard on them.

- I hear you, man.
- Let's see how we do. I love you.

Yeah, I'll be right behind you.
Love you too, man.

Did anyone identify what that piece was?

Like, what was it for?
And what does it do?

It was definitely part
of the bottom part of the suspension...

- Right.
- On the other side. So...

So it could have been
just an oil reservoir.

- It could have... No?
- No, it wasn't. No.

It was far too... It was like a...

You know, for a car that size,
you need a reservoir.

Right. Let's have some water
before we move.

- Some of my urine from last night?
- Oh, urine... Oh, great.


No, I really did pee in it last night.

[both laugh]

[Ewan] This is a big shift,
big dynamic shift.

Dramatic shift in the roads,
in the adventure...

And the stakes are higher
of us not getting places.

Things breaking down.

I also think it's after
a certain period of time of the trip

where people are fatigued by it.

The dynamic between character.

I've never felt closer to you
these last couple of days,

- which I love so much.
- No, it's lovely, yeah.

[Ewan] And people need the break
from each other. And that's...

I think this is just like
the perfect storm at this moment.

[Charley] And don't forget
we've been sitting...

For the last three days,
we've been sitting at 15,000 feet.

[Ewan] Yes.

4,572 METERS

Guys are just chugging along behind us.

What should we do?

[David] You guys press on.
It's gonna get dark quick.

[Ewan] It's all right, mate.

So, basically we hit this boulder.
The rear... the driver's side, uh, rear.

It's sla... a massive thing.
Um, it crushed the wishbone.

Fluid started spewing out of it.

And, uh, you think I should...
Can I disable that pump?

Four wires together, gray.
So, I'm just gonna pull that?

Okay. Thanks, Pete.

[Ewan] This is as good as concrete
right now, this one.

Is this the road?

- Oh, my God!
- [Charley] Oh!

[Ewan] Are you kidding?

- [Charley] Oh, beautiful!
- [laughs]

- I wanna cry. Feel like I wanna cry.
- [Charley] Oh! Oh, my God!

This is positively a flat road
compared to what we've had in the past.

Look at that sky over there. Wow.

[Ewan] I'm loving it.
I'm loving it, loving it.

I'm just having a great, great time.


[Charley] Beautiful.

[Ewan] We're a little bit
behind schedule now,

but I'm glad we could help David
get off that rock.

It's been a big ride today, but we have
to push on into the night to Uyuni.

[Ewan] It felt like a bit of a dream,

a long ride,
the salt flats in the moonlight,

and then this pristine white hotel.

It was very kind of them
to let us plug in for the night.

- There's a plug, uh...
- [man] You have a plug right here.

- Like this?
- [man] Yes.

[chuckles] Hello, llama.

He's so soft.

You'll be a jumper one day.

What did you say?

I said, "You'd be a jumper one day."
'Cause they shed the skin like sheep.

So soft.


[Ewan on video] It looks like they put
a couple of old friends of mine in here.

[laughs, indistinct]

We've just had the most epic,
extraordinary three days.

We got into a little bit of...

tarmac and just went...
[imitates speeding motorbike]

We got up to 110 miles an hour,
and it was so amazing to go fast.

And basically, if you look at this here,
it's all built out of salt brick.

Literally. [laughs]

[Ewan] Oh, my God.
What are you doing to the car?

[man] That's a very good question.

How do you have enough stuff with you?
Do you?

- We're improvising.
- You improvise.

- Yeah, that's what we do. Exactly, yeah.
- You have to improvise, right?

- [man] We're making our own.
- Making your own stuff.

Well, David's car was... landed on...
There was a massive rock.


- And this part of the car, this is gone.
- Yeah, sure.

[Ewan] What is that?

- That's where the extra hydraulic oil is.
- Yeah.

[man] These right here.

Charley? It's a reservoir.
Thank you. I thank you.

- [Charley] It's a reservoir?
- It's a reservoir.

- This thing.
- [Charley] Yeah, that.

[Pete] Wow.
There's never a dull day, is there?

There's never a dull moment. There isn't.

[Ewan] The Rivians are tough
and nearly back together.

We've got a big day's ride today,

but first we're gonna check out
these salt flats.

[Charley] Bloody hell. It's huge!

[Ewan] Biggest salt flat in the world,
here outside of Uyuni in Bolivia.

So beautiful.

[Charley] What a place.

Amazing how it looks like skin,
doesn't it?

- [Ewan] Yeah. Like elephant skin.
- Yeah.

[Charley] In certain times of the year,
it rains here,

like, for a couple of months at a time,
and this whole thing becomes a lake.

[Ewan] And apparently
the world's largest mirror.

If you're far enough out
in the middle, you can't...

They say you can't see anything.
You could get lost, you know?

- You can get disorientated.
- [Charley] Totally.

You can't see the horizon,
and they say all you can see is just salt,

and you get confused as to which direction
to come from and to go from.

And people have lost their lives here.

It's super dangerous,
but incredibly beautiful.

[Ewan] So, here we are
in the middle of the Bolivian high plains.

Twelve thousand feet still.

3,657 METERS

I've loved the last three days,

although there's been moments
where it was really hard for me.

I'm not an off-road rider.
I like riding bikes on this.

I like, uh...
I'm a street rider, you know.

I occasionally do track days and stuff,
but not very often.

I don't really wanna go very fast.

I just love riding bikes
to get around from A to B, and, uh...

this is my home on a bike,
this kind of thing.

[Charley] And these bikes
have done incredibly well.

And these Harleys have just...
Have just soaked it up.

[Ewan] But they're brand-new bikes.

They are not in production.
They're prototype motorcycles.

To ride these electric motorcycles
from Tierra del Fuego up to Los Angeles,

what a great story that'll be if we...
If we can do it, if we can get them there.

And they'll do anything they can
to help us.

Proud to be a Harley-Davidson test rider.
I can put it on my CV.

Heading to our first UNICEF visit.

I love working with them.
I love... I love the work they do.

I think it's incredibly important.

And it has always been
my great honor to work with them.

The whole idea is that UNICEF got together
with the Bolivian government

and campaigned to start schools

where the indigenous people
could be educated in their own language,

alongside Spanish,

and educated in their own culture
because that wasn't happening.

- Hi! We've never arrived early.
- [woman] I can't believe it!

You made it. They survived.

It's really about providing education

for indigenous children
who live really remotely.

And you'll see this incredible school
in the middle of nowhere.

Some children are walking
for hours and hours to reach the school.

It's quite impressive to see the...
The distances they've got to walk.

And what was the situation for
the Quechuan children before this school?

[in Spanish] 43% of the Bolivian
population is indigenous.

Thirty years ago,
I wouldn't be allowed to wear this.

Indigenous people
were forgotten in this country

- as if they didn't exist.
- [Ewan] Hmm.

In 1990, UNICEF started working
with eight schools...

introducing bilingual
and intercultural education,

teaching indigenous kids
in their own language...

and using knowledge of their own culture.

[Ewan] This Quechuan indigenous community
grew up around this school.

They built it ten years ago.

[wind instruments music playing]

[all singing]

Hello, hello, hello.

Hello. ¿Cómo estás? Hello. How are you?

- Hello!
- [child] Hello.


What? Oh.

- Gracias.
- Bienvenido. You're welcome.

- Nice to meet you.
- You're welcome to enter.

- Oh, this way.
- Yeah, you stop here.

Hello. Ah, yes.

Okay. Yes. I like it.

Thank you very much.

Oh, this one. Oh.

Oh. Oh.

[Adán] Ha! It is to dance. To dance.

[Ewan scats]

[imitates explosion]

[speaking Quechuan]

[Ewan] Ah. Oh, she's very good.

- Four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten.
- [children speaking Quechuan]


And that's in...
That's in their local language?

- Yeah. That's Quechuan.
- Yeah, yeah, Quechuan.

[teacher speaking Spanish]

[Ewan] It's lovely to watch these kids
learn the indigenous Quechuan names

for local plants and flowers.

[teacher in Quechuan] "Root."

- [child speaking Quechuan]
- [Adán speaking Quechuan]

- How old am I?
- [Adán] Yes.

- Forty-eight. How dare you? I'm 48.
- [Charley and woman laugh]

- [child speaks Spanish]
- [woman] What do you do?

I'm an actor.

[speaks Spanish]

[woman] What films have you made?


Did anybody see Trainspotting?

- No. Did anybody see...
- [all laugh]

Did anybody see Star Wars?

- [woman speaks Spanish]
- Uh, Star Wars?

- Sí? No? Not up here maybe.
- [child speaks Spanish]

- [woman speaks Spanish]
- Um, Christopher Robin?

- [Charley] Winnie the Pooh?
- I don't think so.

- I want my agent. Get me my agent.
- [all laugh]

None of these kids
have seen anything I've done.

[Ewan] Yes. Some of the mums.

- The hats are great, aren't they?
- [both] Such a cool look.

[Ewan] Just layer upon layer
of colored material and a great hat.

Does anybody, uh, knit in the class?

[speaks Quechuan]

- [children speak Quechuan]
- [Adán] Me, me, me!

- Oh, everybody!
- Wow.

- Now, this is my moment, Charley!
- This is your moment, Ewan.

[Ewan] Oh, my goodness. Look at that!
You guys really do knit.

Look at the pattern he's doing!

Are you kidding? Did you do this?

Look at... That's complicated.

[in Spanish] It's easy.
All you have to do is move your hands.

[Ewan and Charley laugh]

[Ewan] These children
are preserving their culture

through knitting and other crafts.

This knitted cap, called a "chullo,"

tells a story of where the child is from
and his relationship with nature.

[speaks Quechuan]

[Ewan] Yeah, it's complicated.
I've knitted with it.

It's quite difficult to knit with
because it's fiber, not wool.

[Charley] He's wearing a skirt.

[in Spanish] You have no beard.

[Ewan] Ah, yeah.
Yeah, but this is what we wear, the kilt.

[in Spanish] I don't believe it.

[woman] Yes, it's his "skirt".

[Ewan] And then socks like this.

- [in Spanish] I don't believe you.
- [Ewan] Sí?

And different colors
for different families, you know?



- Oh, Charley!
- [children laugh]

- Okay.
- [Ewan chuckles]

[laughing continues]

[Ewan] Oh, dear.

I'm too big for the chair. [chuckles]


- [Ewan exclaims]
- [applauding]

[in Spanish]
Thank you for coming to Bolivia.

[Ewan] No, it's our pleasure.
We're so happy to be here.

[in Spanish] Thank you for choosing
Bolivia and for visiting the school.

[woman] Thank you very much
for choosing Bolivia to come and visit.

- We love it. Beautiful part of the world.
- [Ewan] It's our pleasure. Yeah.

[Ewan] It was so lovely up there.

And oh, my goodness,
the kids were so nice and funny,

and they put on such a lovely show for us.

The impact on those people

to be educated in their own
cultural language and Spanish.

And then they've got the world
at their feet, you know. Well...

[Charley] Well, literally,
'cause they're at 15,000 feet.

- So, the world literally is at their feet.
- [Ewan laughs]

[Charley] Uh, there's a car.

[Charley] Whoa. La Paz.

[Ewan] This is La Paz.
We've made it to La Paz, Charley.

[Ewan] We're heading into La Paz.
It's a densely populated city,

but apparently it really is a good balance
of modernity and the indigenous culture.

I'm really excited to see it.

This is unbelievable. It's great.

[Charley] But it's a brilliant idea
because you can...

[Ewan] 'Cause it's not on the ground.
It's not causing any pollution.

It's not taking up any space.

[Charley] And you can fit it in as well,
you know.

So if it's a big, congested city
like this, you can sort of find its way.

[Ewan] Yeah.

[Charley] Except, it must be awful
if you've got one of the apartments

and every two minutes there's a...
There's a gondola goes past. [laughs]

[guide] Are you ready
to use public transport?

[Charley] So, where do we go?
Where? [pants]

We're just always out of breath
in this place.

- [Charley] Oh. La Paz.
- La Paz, here we are.

Whew! Gosh. I can't breathe.

[Ewan] I know. I like it.


[Ewan] We're in a cable car.

- You see that?
- Wow, what a view!

Is this the cable car up to the town?

[Ewan] We're heading up to Casco Viejo,
the old quarter.

It's a mix of eclectic shops
and crafts by local Bolivian artists.

[Charley] Let's get some more stuff
to trick out Claudio's bike.

[Ewan] Yeah.

Oh, wow. That's spectacular, isn't it?

The first thing you do notice is the... the
absolute mix of indigenous people and...

Spanish origined people,
and it's like a real mix-mash, isn't it?

I love the bowler hats so much.

- [Charley] It's gorgeous.
- It's so great, isn't it?

Lovely music. It makes sure
everyone knows they're there.

Eco eficiente.

- [joyful music playing on speakers]
- [Charley] That is hilarious.

It beats the hell out of
"beep, beep, beep."

Back home, that's the ice cream truck.

It's very soft, you know.

See, this is... this is the kinda thing
we need for Claudio's bike.

More of this. Lots, lots more of this.

So, it sort of rides like that.
[imitates motorbike]

And that llama's like, "Ah!"

Oh, look at this! [gasps]

[ukulele music playing]

[Charley] Mm.

[Ewan laughs]

Oh, my God. It's six strings as well.

Gracias. Thank you so much.
Very nice. Your shop's beautiful.

- [woman] Okay, thank you.
- Bueno. Beautiful. Thank you.

[guitar music playing]

Hmm, that's quite nice.
That's a little travel size.

Oh, it's a nice sound.

That's nice, isn't it?

I think I like the purple one.
So hippie. So like...

[Charley] That one's so here.

- That's awesome, isn't it?
- It's made for you.

Oh, it looks really cute. I like it.

Thank you so much. Thank you.

- Gracias. Thank you, guys. That's lovely.
- Thank you! Goodbye! Bye.

[Ewan] I love it here.

It's such an interesting mix
of traditional and modern culture.

We're heading to a restaurant
that actually began as a school

for underprivileged kids.

And since then, many of the students here
have gone on to become top chefs.

This is not quite what we've been eating
for the last five weeks, just to say.

How was the diet?

- Uh, up and... up and down, I would say.
- Pringles, um...

Mountain Bars, Snickers, um...

- Snickers, uh, yeah.
- Oh, my God. Okay.

- We need to feed you well.
- [both] Yeah.

[Marsia] This is wira-wira, which is
a traditional herb from the Andes.

We have these small quail eggs.

We fill it up and then we smoke it
with the wira-wira.

It's like a finger...

[in Spanish]
Can you show them the quail eggs?

I love...
I love the attention to detail with these.

[Ewan] Yeah, that's beautiful.

This kinda feels like
one of the coolest cities

I've ever been to in my life.

[Marsia] Actually, we work a lot
with producers, direct with producers.

Three times in a year
we travel all over Bolivia

finding these products
and having contact with the producers.

[Ewan] Oh, wow.
But everything is from Bolivia?

[Marsia] We work
with 100% Bolivian products.

- Wow.
- Wow, that's great.


So, we do a lot of foraging, uh,
from the Andes, Amazon, Chaco

and we gather everything together.

So, people that come here
want to see all Bolivia...

And we put all Bolivia...
We gather all Bolivia on the plate.

Yeah, that's the idea.

That's what I did. I was a dishwasher
two... two years when I was 14, 15, 16.

You're the cook, I'm the dishwasher.
That's how this relationship works.

I find it so exhilarating
to watch people like this,

and I've worked
in kitchens like this a lot,

and I've had to do the fiddly stuff
like he's doing just here, and I love it.

Take a few years
to get to this level though.

[Ewan on video] It was a special place

'cause it started with them taking in
underprivileged kids and poor kids

and teaching them to cook,

and a lot of those kids went on
to become chefs in their own right

in kitchens all round the world.

It was really delicious food.

[cell phone beeps]


It was just exceptional dinner, lovely.

Handmade here in Bolivia,

no mark on it or anything,
but it's beautiful.

The neck is really pretty.
Look at the wood in the neck.

Isn't that nice?

So... and I was thinking...
We bought it and I was thinking,

"Ah, I've just bought a guitar.

I mean, what am I gonna...
How am I gonna get it home?"

And then I thought,

"Well, stick it in the Sprinter
and we'll drive it home, you know."

So, that was a funny thought.

♪ This part of me, you'll never know ♪

♪ This part of me, I'll never show ♪

♪ Hopelessly, I'll love you endlessly ♪

♪ Hopelessly, I'll give you everything ♪

♪ But I won't give you up ♪

♪ Won't let you down ♪

♪ And I won't leave you falling ♪

♪ If the moment ever comes ♪


All right.

[Taylor] You can walk away
or you can sleep with the thing

next to your window or your tent.

- Oh, I see.
- And if something happens...

[alarm dings]

It starts doing that
when the current goes away.

- So, you know that if it...
- [Ewan] Oh, I see, the opposite.

If you're not charging,
you'll be able to...

Jeez, you're such a whiz kid. Yes.

Well, what better place, you go...

We're going to Lake Titicaca
and ending up in... in Copacabana.

But there's a...
But there's a boat crossing,

and... and we've gotta...

It stops when it gets dark, so...

Have you seen, uh,
Claudio's new adornment on his motorbike?

The screaming llama.

- [Charley laughs]
- [Ewan] Claudio, what do you think?

I'm impressed.

He's just, like, in the wind, "Ah!"
As you ride along on your Sportster.

- [Charley] What a place!
- I know. It's crazy.

I don't wanna be leaving La Paz.
I really like La Paz.

[Charley] I know.

[Ewan] Look at this.
This is one of those cool buses.

[Charley] Yeah. They're so cool.

[Ewan] Look at the size
of that back window.

I mean, it's awesome, isn't it?

You need a big set of curtains
for the back window.

Oh, man. It's so cool.

[Charley] God, he's just struggling
up that hill, isn't he?

[Ewan] El Alto,
this city's just outside of La Paz.

At nearly 14,000 feet, it's one of
the highest populated areas on the planet.

4,267 METERS

[whistle blows]

[Ewan chuckles]

It really doesn't
make much sense, does it?

[Charley] It doesn't make any sense.
We should have stayed on that main road.

That would have just taken us
straight up into...

Anyway, doesn't matter.

We have a very tight schedule.
We're trying to get to Copacabana.

There's a ferry, uh, there that'll take us
across Lake Titicaca,

but they have this policy of...

They run the last ferry
when the sun goes down.

So we got to try and make it.

[Ewan] I've got straight on.

[Charley] Have you?
I've got a sharp left and then a right.

[horns honking]

We just keep climbing and climbing
and climbing. This is just unbelievable.

Long way up, isn't it? Jesus.

[Ewan] Uppity, up, up.

- [Charley] Wow.
- [horn honks]

This is...

Mine keeps telling me go right...
all the time.

[Ewan] I don't know which one it is.

[Charley] I think we're lost.

This is hammering our batteries.

Now, there's the other Rivian behind us.

Where's he going now?

Up here?


Oh, that's going no... Come back!

[Ewan] You sure you wanna climb that?

[Charley] They've gone the wrong way.

I think we need to go the other way.
I don't think that's the right way.

[Ewan] No, I don't wanna do that.

That's way too steep.

[Anthony] David...

Anthony, hold on back there.
I'm just gonna turn it around.

[Anthony] David...

I'm gonna get out.

I'm getting out.

[Charley] Oh, that's the highway there.

So, we wanna go along here.

- [Ewan] Careful the bus on your left.
- And then...

Left... to my left.

I'm scared blankless.
I'm still coming down from that, guys.

We went up that road...
I had no business going up there.

We just had the brakes replaced.

These guys were working till 3:30 in the
morning trying to get the brakes going.

I was terrified.

I've got Anthony in the back bed,
you know, shooting.

I've got Taylor hanging out the window.

I'm not exaggerating, this is it, La Paz,
at the very tippy-tippy-top of it,

and it was this cobblestone thing.

And I was like, "Oh, my God,
if this car stalls right now, we're done."

I mean, it's not like...
We would have fallen right into the view.


I got this problem to deal with now.

I've never driven ten and two for so long.

My, uh, driving instructor from
high school would be very proud of me.

[Ewan] Charley...
I'm starting to feel the altitude now.

[Charley] Yeah, I know.

[David] Can't believe we made it.

Lake Titicaca,
the highest lake in the world.

[engine revs]

The last ferry.

The boys are over there.
That was such a gnarly ride.

[sighs] I bet they were struggling.

[Russ] Completely random ferry. I love it!

I mean, it's just so, like,
unsafe and randomly bonkers.

You know, when you see something
like that on the planet

that still randomly happens
in a sort of Heath Robinson way.

[exhales] It's cold out. Cold.

I'm, yeah,
definitely getting sick, Charley.

[chains rattle]

[David] Listen, altitude hits you
when it hits you. [sighs]

Taylor's suffering again,
and I think Ewan's feeling it now too.

[Charley] Let's go.

Let's get the doctor.

[Ewan sniffs, breathes heavily]

[Charley] Ewan, are you feeling okay?

[indistinct radio chatter]

I'm with you, okay, man?

Taylor's really coming undone quickly,

but he's not the only one
I'm worried about.

And I was hoping that you would be
the most underworked doctor

in the history of the world.

- Don't worry.
- Ewan's not feeling well.

- Okay, we'll take a look at him.
- And I want... He didn't ask for you,

but I would love for you
to come down and see him, okay?

All right, let's go see him.

[Karen] Ewan?