Land of the Tiger (1997–…): Season 1, Episode 1 - The Tiger's Domain - full transcript

'Greetings from India.

I'm Valmik Thapar,

and we're about to begin a journey
that you will never forget.

I'm kneeling down in Gir Forest

on the north western coast of India
looking at lions.

This is not Africa...

this is India...
and it's the last home
of the Asiatic lion in the world'

In centuries past,

lions like these ranged from India
to the shores of the Mediterranean.

But now they're confined
to this one tiny corner of Gujarat.

'The most remarkable thing
about the Asiatic lion



is that it has an incredible
relationship with man.

'It goes back 2000 years,

and the lion is tolerant and patient
of the presence of man.

You can sit on the ground
or walk on foot,

and the lion doesn't attack you.'

The lion may be Africa's pride,

but here in India we have something else.

If any animal symbolises the wildlife
of the Indian subcontinent,

it's the tiger.

For most of my life, these superb
animals have been my passion.

For years
I have tracked and watched them,

yet I still thrill to the splendour
of these magnificent beasts.

But tigers are just one of the creatures

that inhabit the vastness
of the subcontinent.



You could fit the whole of Europe
into it with room to spare.

From east to west it's further
than from London to Istanbul,

and it's just as big
from north to south.

'Let me take you
on a journey of a lifetime.

And what better way to travel than
on the back of this majestic elephant

We start our journey in the heart
of India's finest tiger country.

This is the true land
of Kipling's Jungle Book,

and the tiger still prowls
these superb forests.'

India was old
long before Kipling's time

Her first people lived in a land
full of wildlife,

and they wove it
into the very fabric of their lives

From the humid heart of India
we travel westˇ­

to the dry deserts
of Gujarat and Rajasthan

Sunscorched grasslands
leap with blackbuckˇ­

And the shimmering saltpans
of the Rann of Kutch

echo to the thundering hooves
of wild ass

From the hot desert we move north,

to the cold desert of the Himalayas

You'd think nothing could live in
the frozen embrace of these high peaks

but you'd be wrong

We'll soar with the lammergeyer
the full length of this
great range of mountains

These icy citadels
are home to tahr and ibex

Snowcock

And that ultimate symbol
of the high snowsˇ­ the snow leopard

Himalayan peoples long ago
learned to respect for the nature
of their mountain home

These mountains of the gods give birth
to India's most sacred rivers.

From its glacial beginning,
we'll follow the Ganges to the sea

The holy waters
attract waterfowl by the million.

And they're alive with fishˇ­
food for both animals and people

Lush swamps along the river
heave with life,

among it some of the world's largest,
and rarest, animals

Here too we find the tiger.

The biggest tigers of all

stalk this watery home of wild buffalo,
rhino and barasingha

Rivers flow to the oceanˇ­
an ocean full of surprises

Even in the sea,
our largest land animal seems at home

We'll ride the ocean currentsˇ­
south to the coral reefs of Lakshadweep,

then east to the remote
and mysterious Andamans

And so to the journey's end..

the wet forests of Southern India
Assam and Sri Lanka..

a hidden, secret world of creatures
smallˇ­ and large

This is the haunt of silent
footed leopard and deadly snake

but wherever they live,

all these animals
have a desperate struggle for space

In India alone,
there are nearly a billion people.

So how do we still have room
for elephants?

Millions still worship Ganesh,
the elephant god,

and many of us
still have a deeply spiritual
relationship with the wild

The great religions
like Buddhism and Hinduism

absorbed ancient animist beliefs
into their very core.

It's not only cows
that are sacred here.

All sorts of other creatures are, too

Like monkeysˇ­living embodiments
of the monkey god, Hanuman.

These worshippers of Hanuman

act out the more mischievous side
of the monkey nature.

Kandy in Sri Lanka
is Buddhist territory,

and here too,
elephants are honored and revered.

This is the annual Perahera festival

Over twelve days and nights,

nearly two hundred elephants take part
in torch lit processions,

and scores of dancers stamp and sway
to the elephants' steps.

At the heart of the festival,

the Buddha's sacred tooth relic

rides high on a shrine
on the back of the biggest tusker,

decorated and bejeweled
from head to toe.

City dwellers may never
see a wild elephant

but deep in rural India
many people still live
surrounded by wild animals ˇ­

and old beliefs are very much alive

'I'm always delighted
to visit remote areas like Kanha

and spend time with people
like Mamlu Beiger.

He's a master of the forest,

and has many secrets in his mind
of this forest.

I'm in the heart of India,
Kipling country,

far away from the mad city which
is insulated from the natural world'

Dawn chases the night from the forest

Soon the mists will vanish
in the heat of the rising sun.

It's a new day in tiger country.

This part of the tigers' domain

is a mosaic of sal forest
and grassy meadows.

Here in the 1970s

people sacrificed their homes and land
to make space for the tiger.

These are the fabled forests
of Kipling's Mowgli

and the animals of the Jungle Book
are still here today.

There's the Jackal.

Herds of elegant spotted deer.

Langur monkey.

And the shadowy presence
of the villain of the storiesˇ­
Sheer Khan, the tiger.

Out here in the dappled sal forest

I can spend endless happy hours
tracking the tiger.

To me, he is no villain

I've come to seek him out in one
of the richest pieces of tiger turf

in this land of the tigerˇ­
Kanha National Park.

Close to the Seoni Hills,
on the high plateau of central India

Here I know I will find a tiger

'These are the moments I live for,
where time stands still.

For over twenty years,

the sheer beauty and power
of this magnificent creature
has completely mesmerised me'

This tigress has cubs concealed nearby

They stay hidden
till she calls them out

She killed this chital
earlier in the day

She'll eat all of it herself.

Her cubs are still too young
to mange meat.

They're totally dependent
on mother's milk,

but they take a keen interest
in everything she does.

The cubs grow fast,

and within weeks they'll be tackling
a carcass themselves.

But they'll be dependent
on their mother's hunting skills
for two full years.

Father's seldom play much part
in rearing the young.

Once her cubs are weaned,

the tigress will be so busy hunting
she'll have little time to relax.

In a family of jackals,

the job of watchdog
always falls to the adults.

If the coast's clear,
the pups can play.

Jackals are one of our smaller predators

so they could end up
on someone else's menu

A wolf could easily put an end
to the day of the jackal.

Our wolves look much leaner than
the shaggy animals of northern climes

but they're just as lethal.

Kipling wrote of wolves
with respect and admiration.

But that's an unusual view;

in most of India
they've been hunted almost to extinction

If the jackal's wary of the wolf,

it's also nervous
of another Jungle Book character

Bhaloo the bear.

He's a sloth bear.

He thrives in the heat
of the Indian summer.

He's a termite eater,
but no less dangerous for that.

The termite mounds
are baked hard as rock.

The bear has huge claws
to rip them open.

Mowgli's jungle friends
poured scorn on the jackal.

They thought it a cowardly creature

But not this one and its mate.

A jackal biting a bear's bottomˇ­

In all my time in India,

I've never seen anything
like this before.

The jackals must be protecting
their pups.

Another kind of dog, the dhole

It's also known
as the Indian wild dog.

Like wolves and jackals,

dhole are social animalsˇ­
and they can take quite large prey

Their packs are typically
a dozen to twenty strong,

though in Kanha
a pack of fifty has been seen.

A group that size could tree
a leopard or even chase a tiger,

but usually tiger and wild dog
avoid conflict.

Dhole are formidable hunters.

Their normal prey
would be something like this

Spotted deerˇ­ chital

But for now, all is calm
at the edge of the sal forest.

The deer can safely grazeˇ­

partly because they have
a remarkable relationship
with another creature

the langur monkey

The two seem to seek out
each others company.

It's a special rapport
that profits both parties,
in more ways than one

The deer eat a broad range of vegetation

but they can only reach so far
up into the trees.

Monkeys, on the other hand,
are in their element up in the branches

You often see chital
gathering underneath the monkeys.

And this is why.

Fruits the monkeys dislodge or reject
fall to the ground..

And the deer can take their pick

But there's another,
more valuable side to the partnership

Sharp eyes up in the trees
and sensitive ears down below

give both parties a better chance
of detecting danger

And when danger is detected,

the whole forest resounds
with cries of alarm.

The tiger's lost the vital element
of surprise

Once it's been spotted
the hunt is over.

Perhaps it will have more luck
out in the meadows

On the forest edge,
the chital have their minds on sex

Rival stags strut and postureˇ­

oblivious to the stripes in the grass

A tiger's charge
packs incredible power,

but it's short lived.

Surprise is essential.

Barely one hunt in twenty succeeds

A hungry tigress returns
to call her cubs out of hiding

In the first few months
the mother is ruthlessly protective.

Cubs are vulnerable to attacks
by jackals, wild dog, birds of prey

nearly everything that moves

Some are even killed
by territorial male tigers

Mortality is high

and the tigress' devotion to her cubs
is essential for their survival

A tigress can have a litter
every three years.

By the time
the next set of cubs arrives,

these youngsters
will be fending for themselves.

The females
share their mother's home range,

but the males will move away
to establish new territories

Hanuman langurs are sacred.

They take their name from the general
of a celestial monkey army.

But in the jungle book,
these were the Banderlogˇ­

quarrelsome and undisciplined,
not creatures to revere

They may be quarrelsome,
but they are not undisciplined.

Langurs live in complex
and well ordered societies,

and youngsters learn the rules
over a long childhood

There's a strict order
of precedence within the troop.

Subordinates are kept in their place

Some troops consist of females
and young with a single male;

Others are male bands.

Each has its own range, and disputes
are frequent when troops meet

When the conflict's over,
the youngsters can play

Coming down to earth
is not just the end of the game.

It could be the end,
if the mother's not careful

In the late afternoon,

langurs and chital
move out into the open meadows

The animals are wary.

Out here there are no high
vantage points to watch from.

Tiger killing monkeyˇ­

I've only seen it once before

The cubs are a little older now.

This time,
the prey is meant for them

Though they go through the motions,

they still can't quite get
to grips with it

Their mother leaves them to it.

They must work it out for themselves

This is the first time
they've had to deal with meat,

but in a few months
they'll be fully weaned

The wild dogs have a kill too,

but not to themselves

A scavenging wild boar.

With his sharp tusks,
he can even stand up to a tiger.

Two dogs on their own
are no match for him

Early morning, and the stage
is set for a show of splendour

The actors gather to call
their lines and flash their finery

In ancient belief, peacocks
are the prophets of the monsoon

Their ritual courtship takes place
just before the onset of the rains

Peahens are drab and brown.

Only cocks grow this magnificent train

This young male
can't make eyes at anyone.

He may be going through the motions,
but he lacks the equipment

Hindus revere peacocksˇ­

they draw the chariot of Kartika,
god of war.

You often find them living alongside
people in country villages.

They're tolerated even though
they sometimes damage crops

Snakes are tolerated, too,
despite the risks.

Indeed they're far more sacred
than the peacock

The cobra's probably after rats

Peacocks are reputed to be snake killers

The feet that dance in courtship
can also stamp in battle

A smaller snake
might not be so lucky

Hidden underground,
a poisonous brood emerges

Tiny cobras,
each the spitting image of its mother.

For months,
she's guarded her buried treasure

Now her hungry vigil is at an end

Lethal within hours of hatching,

each tiny cobra
packs a killing punch of venom.

It's meant for prey like ratsˇ­

but it's no less dangerous
to any human that crosses their path

Incredibly, some people actually
make a living catching snakes

It's a family business.

Children learn from their father

The snake is doing her best
to protect her young.

Her would-be captor
must treat her with respect.

In India twenty thousand people
die from snakebites each year

She's actually easier to deal with
outside the hole

The boys in the family
learn to handle snakes early in life.

Snake catching is an occupation
that's handed down from father to son

These days,
some of the catch goes to snake farm
to help produce anti-venom.

But some has another destination

This is the annual festival
of Nagapanchami in Maharashtra

It's the festival of snakes

There are more snakes here than people

In Hindu belief,

the great serpent Ananta
holds the earth in his coils.

Woman who want children
believe snakes can bring lifeˇ­

they're symbols of fertility

These snakes will be released,

but their sanctity doesn't stop some people
killing tens of thousands for their skins

The old ways are changing.

Much of our wildlife
faces two great problemsˇ­

disappearing wild places, and poaching

Tigers have become prime targets
for poachers,

their numbers tumbling to a mere
shadow of what they once were

'This gun could be the tiger's salvation

and this is not a gang of poachers,

but a team of scientists
preparing to radio collar a tiger.

It is through the tracking
of these collared animals

that new and vital information
will be discovered

on the tiger's territory,
its feeding habits
and its social behaviour'

We turn again to the elephant

to help us find the tiger
we want to collar

Being on elephant back
gives us a good vantage point.

And keeps us
more out of the tiger's reach

If you must catch a tiger by the tail
first tranquillise it.

Easier said than done

when your mount keeps moving
and you can't aim your gun properly

The dart does its work,

and 250 kilos of live tigress
sink to the ground

The drug won't last long

So the scientists must work fast
to fit the collar,

and collect all the information
they need

Radio collars
are invaluable tools for scientists.

The more information we can collect
by tracking animals like this tigress

the more we learn
of their survival needs

William Blake wrote of an 'immortal hand'
framing the tiger's fearful symmetry.

For these people,
the tiger himself is an immortal.

In a village on India's west coast
they prepare to celebrate their deity

Painting themselves to look like
tigers and dancing in devotion

brings great honour
on this most awe-inspiring
of the world's big cats

Back in Kanha,
our tiger cubs are older now.

In this wilderness of plenty,
their mother has kept them safe

But what of their future?

Will they make it
to the next century?

To me it seems natural
to revere the tiger.

It's the symbol of our wild heritage.

But not everyone shares my views.

As cultures change,

old beliefs that built fear and respect
for wild animals disappearˇ­

and with them,
the tigers' domain vanishes

We must battle to save the tiger,

so that future generations
can witness wonders like this.