Jamie's American Road Trip (2009–…): Season 1, Episode 6 - Arizona - full transcript
Southend-on-Sea
is not like this at all.
Like many Brits,
my first taste of America
was being taken
to Disney World as a kid.
Twenty years on, I wanna get
a real taste of a country
that's fascinated me ever since.
I'm not used to having
this deep, meaningful,
emotional conversations
over enchiladas, brother.
And the only way I know how,
is by cooking.
Would you like me
to cut some onion for you?
Will you know how?
-Tasting...-Wow.
I love it.
...and getting stuck
into everything Stateside.
♪ Hear me now! ♪
-Raw and uncut...-
- ...and without a guide book.-Excuse
me, d'you speak English?
I'll be on a one-man food quest.
- Here's the rabbit.
- It's all alive.
To be reborn in the US of A.
-Look at this.
On my next stop,
I'm going native.
Smells like
my students common room.
On the Navajo
Indian reservation.
Wait, wait, wait.
No, no, no, no.
I'll be trying to discover
the original American cooking.
Don't laugh at me, Fay.
Doing my best to blend in...
How'd you feel
about my dumpling?
- It's good.
- I'd dump the whole pot.
...and sampling the delights
of a traditional grill.
I've never been to a barbeque
where you get grilled penis
and grilled balls.
Oh, okay, well,
this may be your day.
I'm entering
the Navajo Indian reservation,
deep in the American south-west.
I'm here to discover
America's oldest cuisine,
one that's
on the brink of extinction.
And I suppose
from my point of view
and the reason
why I've come here
is, you know,
the native Indians of America
are the original inhabitants.
So therefore, if you really
wanna get a signpost or a taste
of what the original
American food is,
this is gonna be where it's at.
The Navajo reservation
is the largest area
managed by the Native Americans
in the US.
The tribes have lived on the Res
ever since the government
seized their land in the 1860s.
My expectation...
I don't know, I just, look,
I've only ever seen the movies.
Um... Cowboys and Indians.
I know we weren't
very nice to them,
but I ain't ever done
nothing like this before.
You know, there's
elements of back home
in other parts of America
that I've been to,
little reminders of home.
But I've never seen
anything like this.
Oh, my Lord.
I'm basing myself
in a typical Navajo village.
It's called Teec Nos Pos,
and that means
"Trees in a Circle,"
but there's not
much evidence of it.
-I can't--
I can't believe they've got
sleeping policemen
in Navajo country.
What's all that about?
Hello.
- Hello, Jamie.
- Roy?
I'm staying with
the recently-elected mayor.
Roy Cady's a man
after my own heart
voted in on a radical promise
to protect the Navajo food
and culture.
As you see,
I'm wearing moccasins.
This is a gift from us.
- Oh, wow. Are these proper--
- And this is the--
These are
the proper attire to wear here.
Because we want you
to reconnect to the earth.
So are you ready to eat,
or what are you--
- Yeah, man. Definitely.
- Okay.
Roy's gonna give me
a crash course
in a cuisine that's
on the brink of extinction.
And then,
this here is the sumac soup
- it's like a porridge.
- It's quite gelatinous.
- It's like a...
- Uh-huh. Yes. You boil it...
This may look as unappetizing
as cold tinned tomato soup,
but it's actually delicious.
It's a delicacy
of pureed local sumac berries.
It's got like an incredible
sweet and sour taste,
you know,
like a kind of tutti frutti.
It really gives a sort of...
- fragrant sweetness.
- Mm-hmm.
- How unusual.
- That's the blue corn pancakes.
Oh, wow.
And we use
goat milk or sheep's milk.
- Right.
- So it's a milk pancake.
Even the Navajo corn's
different.
For starters, it's blue
and it's got a sweeter taste
than the yellow corn
that we're used to.
- It's delicious.
- Mm-hmm. Thank you.
- Very delicious.
- Yes.
Should I get these shoes on?
- Oh, yes.
- They look pretty funky.
Yeah.
- That looks great on you.
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
- The elders always say
moccasins can outrun
-Carl Lewis.
And so, that's why they wear it.
It's like...
I feel I'm in a bubble.
This ain't
the America I've ever seen.
This is a different place.
A different place.
The Navajo used to be
great farmers
before the US government of old
nicked
all the most fertile land.
And I mean this, not in
a sort of a derogatory way,
but... it does look third world.
It reminds me of parts
of South Africa I've been to,
near shanty towns
and stuff like that,
and it's cold, I've got
like 20 layers on today.
It's the start
of the Navajo winter
where overnight temperatures
drop well below freezing.
Happily, my new buddy's offered
to tuck me up for the night.
Some Navajos still live
in these traditional hogans,
and if I'm gonna learn
about their food,
I wanna understand
how they live.
And so you can already
kind of feel the heat here.
Hey, I'm loving it,
I'm loving my new--
Yeah, well, it keeps 'em warm.
I wanna build
one of these in Essex.
You should.
What do I do
with these, brother?
If you can tell
the head from the tail,
you arrange it to where
you sleep towards the tail.
So I put my head near its bum.
Yeah, you smell
the bum all night long.
-Oh, no.
Yeah.
It turns out that booze
is banned on the reservation,
so instead, for a nightcap,
it's time for Roy
to spark one up.
And so why don't I just
go ahead and light this pipe.
It's a potent mix
of legally-grown plants
including mint and lavender
along with some
other secret ingredients.
Smells like
my students common room.
Did you just blow
that on your t-shirt?
Mm-hmm.
Do I have to do the same?
I don't know what to do.
You can inhale some,
and you can blow
the puff of smoke on yourself
down your t-shirt,
and so it's basically
just a blessing
to yourself.
It's to rejuvenate the soul
and also the mind, the spirit
-and to help you sleep well.
It's really a beautiful place.
I'm quite looking forward
to sleeping here tonight.
You know,
it's just not British, is it?
It's just not British, but...
No, it's easy to giggle
when someone goes into that...
You know,
when he does all the blessings
and talks about
Mother Earth and...
you know, I mean, I think...
what I'm trying to do
is just shut up and...
learn, and...
Yeah, a lot of it is quite
a culture shock to me, but...
I'm up for it. I'm gonna dig it.
I'm gonna open my eyes
and I'm gonna listen.
So yeah, this is cool.
It would be nice
if this place had a toilet.
I went to bed
at nine o'clock last night.
It's now six in the morning.
I had to get up and have
a pee three times, but...
and light the fire, four times.
The best night's sleep
I've had in ten years.
I swear to you,
the best night's sleep.
But there's no time to enjoy
my first-ever
lie-in in a mud hut.
Roy wants me
to be ready for sunrise.
But most importantly,
for a man of my stature...
There we go, eye hydrator.
And I swear to you, right,
I am not a vain man
I just like
to look after myself.
That is the secret
of my success.
Who's that?
- Is that you, Roy?
- Yes.
Hi, man. Am I all right,
just to brush my teeth?
Yeah, perfectly.
♪ She'll be coming round ♪
♪ The mountain when she comes ♪
Roy starts every day
with prayers to the Navajo gods.
This is a morning offering
that we do every day.
So, an offering,
so you'd give something?
Exactly, so we offer corn again.
White corn represents us
as male figures,
yellow corn represents
the female.
And so...
we face to the east
and then...
we invite the fresh, clean air
into our system.
- Do I have to do this?
- Mm-hmm.
And then you release it.
I'm gonna be a bit rubbish,
but my prayers might get better
as the week goes on.
Oh, wonderful, yes.
I just wanna say hello
to all the deities
Mm-hmm.
If you can all
look after us today,
help us to understand
your people.
Ideally not too cold,
if that's possible.
- Mm-hmm.
- Find some nice food,
and most of all,
have lots of fun.
- Love and fun.
- Yes.
Walk in beauty.
That's all right, innit?
- Wonderful.
- Not bad
- for the first day, is it?
- No, that's beautiful, yes.
-Thanks, mate.
In actual fact...
my trip here is
actually something
I always wanted to do.
Right,
all my mates went traveling
when they were
sort of 16, 17, 18...
on those tickets
that go round the world.
Shagging and getting drunk
and all sorts of stuff
and my old man was
very, very adamant
that cooking's
a young boy's game
and I should keep
in the kitchen.
So while I was getting
phone calls from my mates
pulling all the girls
in parts of America and Cuba...
...I was in a basement
of the Neal Street Restaurant
in Covent Garden.
But you know, I wouldn't
change it for the world,
but this is my time now.
When I'm in a new area,
I always try
and visit local chefs,
but in my time
on the reservation,
I haven't seen
a single Navajo restaurant.
Instead, Roy suggested
that I meet Luva de Huzy
a food campaigner and author
of the first Navajo cookbook.
She's the closest thing
to a Navajo Nigella.
Hi, is that-- Are you Luva?
- Yes.
- Thank you for seeing me.
All right, well,
come over here, you...
you're gonna get to see
my girls in here.
- Okay?
- Hello, girls.
- Oh, hello.
- How are you?
- Just fine.
- Nice to meet you.
- Yes.
- How do you do?
- Welcome to the Navajo Nation.
- Yeah.
Luva can remember
when the government
tried to strip
the traditional food culture
from the Navajo
once and for all.
Before the...
In the '30s, 1930s,
they did a reduction
on the livestock
the government did that.
United States government came
because they were saying that
the Navajos are overgrazing.
How can you overgraze...
this big...
How can it be overgrazed?
It's the biggest amount
of space I've ever seen.
Uh-huh. I was just
a little girl, I have seen it.
I have seen, I was told
not to look at it, but I did.
I always sneak off
and look at it,
and they shot all the sheep,
and they shot them,
and then they put
gas on them and burned them.
Really? Not even,
didn't even eat them?
I saw my grandfather,
my grandmother, everybody...
- Crying.
- Crying,
'cause this is what they did.
They did the same thing
to the horses and the cows.
So before they did that,
the Navajos were
fully independent
fully healthy
and they lived off the land?
Yes. Today it has changed,
everything has changed.
Everybody is going to the...
Walmart and the supermarkets.
But no supermarket shopping
for Luva.
She uses old Navajo ingredients
like cedar ash,
which she makes soups with.
We're gonna put the ash...
So the ash,
the ash goes in the bowl.
And then you...
So this is, I mean,
this is very interesting, this.
Mm-hmm.
-I, I...
You, you mix it like,
I mean, just...
mix it with water.
Weird as it may seem,
adding ash to the corn
helps to release
the essential vitamins
that are good for you.
All the same,
I can't believe
it's gonna taste good.
We've got about
two liters of water in here
with a teaspoon
and a bit of ash in it,
which I've never heard of
before, but I'm with you.
- Now, I'm gonna take the corn.
- More water.
In cold water.
- I'll be your whisker.
- Okay.
So you've got
like a slop here now.
- Uh-huh, and then--
- And in here...
It's got the most
- wonderful smell, like--
- Yes.
- Malty, sweet.
- Mm-hmm.
Well, I've never made
a dish like this before.
So basically,
we're making like a cross
between a porridge
and a polenta.
Yes.
Oh, it's thickened straightaway,
look at that.
The next dish is
a bit closer to home,
which is a bit of a relief.
Okay, so we got,
what's that, lamb mince?
This is just beef, just beef.
We'll put some onions in it
and then we'll put the chili.
And this is
hot chili or sweet chili?
- Hot.
- Hot chili.
Now this dish sounds exciting,
what is this dish
it's like a beef chili?
Chili beans.
- Yes.
- Come on. All right. Lovely.
Luva used to sell
what she cooked
from a concession stand
outside the front of her house
until it was closed down
by the authorities.
It was clean in there,
we cleaned everything, and...
and then the Public Health came
and said that it was unclean
for people to eat--
- But they were wrong--
- On the dirt.
- And that's all that--
- Oh, they're not allowed
- to eat it on the dirt?
- Yeah, and that's the only way,
you know, Navajos ever lived
all our lives
eating on the dirt.
Yeah.
-Okay.
You want the chili
going in, my darling?
I just know that this is gonna
be delicious, I just know it.
- Oh.
- I just know it.
Finally,
the chilies and the beef
go in with the pinto beans
a local staple
that look like borlotti beans
but they have an earthier taste.
I pray this
in the name of Jesus. Amen.
Just help yourself.
Time to tuck
into Luva's chili beans
and cedar ash
and corn mush soup.
And eat the way you wanna eat.
This soup is... fascinating.
It's almost like gelatinous.
This reminds me of semolina,
in England.
- It's delicious.
- It's delicious, yes.
Very simple, very clean,
but delicious.
Wow, look at this.
Those beans
are absolutely killer,
they're so good.
Oh, they're so good.
The beginnings
of American civilization was
based on these incredible people
that lived off the land,
respected it and ate well,
and ate well, you know.
It's such
an extreme, modern-day America.
You know, junk food city,
overweight,
obese people everywhere.
In actual fact, you know what,
there's so much
to celebrate in America
it's such a wonderful country,
but Americans know
that they're in the shit,
they know
that their health is so bad
that...
they probably don't know yet
that a lot can be learnt
from the people that they stole
the country from.
As well as being
the local mayor,
Roy Cady runs the sheep farm
that he grew up on.
He's dedicated his life
to preserving the churro sheep
the breed that Luva saw
being exterminated as a child.
-They say sheep is life,
because it's a life-giver
it also, you know,
nutritionally,
it makes us stronger
and so we care for them.
- Yeah.
- And in turn they care for us.
So massive respect to the--
- Exactly.
- To the food that you eat.
I feel like
I've gone to Bethlehem.
Oh, wonderful!
Roy's is like a commune
for woolly animals.
Goats, alpacas, and sheep.
A lot of this
particular breed of sheep
they just drove 'em and just
shot 'em in their millions.
So the sheep were quite
representative to them,
they obviously knew,
I guess they knew
it was important to you,
really, wasn't it?
-Mm-hmm.
You're not considered
a true Navajo
unless you know
how to butcher a sheep
the traditional way,
a method that I've been warned
I might find shocking.
A couple here.
- That's a clever bit of kit.
- Mm-hmm.
Do one wrap.
-Okay.
-How do I say hello?
-And you shake your hands.
Two village elders,
Ella and Fay, are here
to carry out the ceremonial
rites of slaughter.
- What are you doing there, Roy?
- She's blessing the sheep
and she's letting it know
that this is the purpose for...
for his life and for helping us.
It's such an incredibly
subservient animal, isn't it?
Mm-hmm.
Ah.
I notice that...
I'm looking rather good
in my moccasins, while...
your friend there
is wearing Nikes.
I know. She likes
to wear Nikes because...
- They make her run faster.
- Yeah.
There you go. Happy days.
Merry Christmas.
Thank you.
- Interesting.
- See, that is our rib.
When we butcher ours,
we would just have the rib
and then attach
the eye meat like a handle.
Sure.
- Can I have a go?
- Please.
Wait, wait, wait.
No, no, no, no.
You break it first.
Say "oh," Jamie.
- Say "oh."
- Oh.
- That means yes.
- That means yes.
- Yes. Oh.
- Oh. Yes.
Okay.
This is
a completely different style
of butchery than I'm used to.
Oh, wow. Look at this bread.
Is this a bread?
Yeah, that's a dough
-and she's gonna make tortillas.-Oh, my.
To go with the mutton.
The purplish blue corn
gives the tortillasa sweeter flavor.
What, 50 percent flour,
50 percent corn?
Yeah, there's a mixture
of half and half in there.
She's gotta teach me
how to do this.
Mm-hmm.
She'll start telling me off
in a minute.
- Don't, don't laugh at me, Fay.
- Uh-huh.
Come on, darling.
What's she saying? She sounds
like she's taking the mickey.
Whoa, look at that one.
That's all right, innit?
- I wanna take Fay home with me.
- Yes.
To England.
-Does she fancy a toy boy?
Mind you, you wouldn't wanna get
in the doghouse,
you'd end up strung up
like that ram.
No.
It's freezing cold,
not exactly the weather
for cooking outside,
but there's nothing
like a Navajo barbecue.
Small intestines,
heart, bit of lungs
stuff to put hairs
on your chest.
What about the penis?
You've got the balls?
- What about, what did you--
- Oh, those are all
you cook 'em and you eat 'em.
I've never been
to a barbecue where you get
grilled penis and grilled balls.
Oh, okay, well, you might just,
this may be your day.
- Yeah.
- Yeah. Who knows.
That is old-school.
You know, what a pleasure.
It's old-school.
I mean, how bonkers is this,
how wonderful is this.
I mean, wow.
Now you're talking.
Is this common
with the younger Navajo now?
It's not common
as we want it to be,
they prefer burgers and fries
and Taco Bell and...
fast food.
The, the indigenous people here
the native people
here in America,
have the highest
epidemic of diabetes.
- Really?
- And so...
the majority of them
are the youth.
What about obesity?
- Obesity is the same, you know.
- Right.
There's a lot of obese children
and everything has just become
so convenient for us.
- Right.
- That, you know,
they don't have self-identity
in any sense.
Yeah, this is kind
of where it all began, really.
Tribes of Indians
that lived off the land,
but the new generation
of Navajo, they're moving
away from the sort
of the old ways
to being Westernized, and...
you know, and at the same time
they're becoming the most
unhealthy people in America.
That's the blood sausage.
Wow.
Bless your heart,
it's like black pudding.
Mm-hmm.
You can put a little salt on
if you want.
Mm.
It's good, did she put
any bran or flour into it?
Mm-hmm. You put the cornmeal.
- That's what I can taste.
- Mm-hmm. Yeah.
Roy wants the local kids
to learn the food traditions
of the village elders,
a kind of Navajo food
preservation society.
So Roy, I mean
how is your people gonna address
getting the young people back
to some of their roots?
Our plan is to get... is
to start cooking for them again,
and also, even getting them
to garden, some of them.
- So growing's important to you.
- Exactly.
I would like for you
to sort of help me
excite the youth so that they
can see and they can taste
some of the wonderful products
that you can produce,
and so if you could just help us
that would be so awesome.
Normally I do it
in my own country,
but it would be my pleasure
to do it with you.
What fast food restaurants
are we talking about,
shout out some names?
Burger King,
McDonald's, McDonald's.
KFC. Taco Bell. McDonald's.
What, what...
Just tell me
this one thing, I mean...
I don't know
how closely you feel
emotionally with your ancestry,
or the Navajo way,
but it kinda seems to me
that you're quite excited about
the Burger Kings,
the Pizza Huts, the KFCs...
If there was
a Navajo fast food restaurant,
would you go to that?
Yes.
So... I think, you know,
I think what happens is
the fast food restaurants
are really funky and quick.
- Yes.
- And then there's us lot
and it's kinda like
two different worlds.
- Yeah.
- And one's kind of exciting
and one seems
- a little worthy.
- Yeah.
So what we're gonna do,
is make it funky.
Me and Roy
are gonna funk it up a bit.
-Yeah.
As the school's
right next door to Roy's farm,
he wants to get the kids
involved in a project
to grow their own alternative
to fast food.
So where's it gonna go, then?
Just right
where that goat is walking.
Small food-producing gardens
are a bit like allotments,
were a crucial part
of Native American life.
Now Roy's hoping to rekindle
that tradition
with the help of 21st century
gardening techniques.
Well, the greenhouse
is about 20 foot...
- Right.
- ...wide.
And then the height is the same.
So really, by the end
of this week you're gonna have
- a brand-new greenhouse.
- Exactly.
- Planting, growing.
- Yes.
You're gonna plant up
this field.
- Yes.
- You're gonna be doing cooking.
Mm-hmm.
The elders will
obviously get involved.
- Exactly.
- So a lot's gotta happen here
- in the next few weeks.
- Oh, a lot's gonna happen.
We're excited. We're just really
looking forward to this...
this project.
Shall we get back?
I'm gonna devote
the rest of my time here
to helping Roy get
that desert flowering again.
At the end of the day,
it's kind of, like,
we're always moving on
in life, aren't we?
Everything's always evolving,
but you do need people like Roy
locally, all over the world
to sort of say, "Hey, hey, hey,
just a minute, like, wait up."
Don't forget all this stuff,
this was quite good, you know?
I'm traveling
across the Navajo reservation
helping local mayor Roy Cady
get the younger generation
back into native food.
I can really relate
to what Roy's doing.
You know,
he wants to inspire the kids,
he wants them
to live better lives,
he wants them to be healthier.
I think the difference
for Roy is...
is that, you know,
the people of England
aren't a sort of
small ethnic minority
that have been, sort of...
pushed around a bit,
you know, I mean...
Roy is really trying to save
the Navajo ways.
I've been looking for
a good local restaurant,
but to find one, I've had
to come off the reservation,
which is the size of Scotland,
and get back
into mainstream USA.
Despite nearly 40 percent
of the population
being Native American,
the town of Gallup doesn't have
a single Navajo restaurant.
Instead, there are hundreds of
fast food and foreign outlets.
Some of the most successful
are Mexican.
And I think
what's quite interesting is
if you look at the pantry of...
Native Indian cooking
and Mexican cooking,
you know,
the use of grains, herbs,
spice, flat-breads...
they're really quite similar,
yet Mexican food is going
from strength to strength
and people are digging it,
digging it, digging it,
and the Indian cooking
is struggling, you know,
it's really struggling.
And I wanna see why,
Why is this?
El Metate,
much-loved for the classic
Mexican street snacks,
called tamalesis owned by Rebeca Rodríguez.
I don't see... I've never been
in a Navajo restaurant here.
- It's strange, isn't it?
- That's strange, yes,
because we use
a lot of the same...
the same...
ingredients.
Garlic, chili.
Do you think it's
because the Navajo people...
it's harder for them
to set up business, or...?
I don't think so, because
we can do it, they can do it,
but they keep their tradition
too close to them.
- Really?
- Yes.
- That's interesting.
- And we are, we, like,
we want to bring our tradition
from Mexico, so...
So, you, what you're saying is,
the Navajo,
or the Indian reservations
keep their culture close,
and precious,
and try to protect it.
- Yeah, I think they need to--
- And then the Mexican people
just get out there
and celebrate it.
- Yes. Yes.
- And wanna share it.
-You gonna teach me tamales?-Yes.
I've always wanted
to make tamales.
This is maseca.
- This is corn maize, yeah?
- Yeah, it's corn.
Start by
adding a little baking powder
to a dough
of flour and cornmeal.
Then add lard and a little water
to bind together.
This is the exciting bit,
'cause I've never
done this before.
So we, we put it in here.
The corn dough
goes into corn husks,
which have been softened
in water.
Oh.
Don't laugh.
I'm a tamale virgin.
The fifty-fifty mix
of corn and flour
is the same as the Navajotortillas
that I made at Roy's.
I think that's what I've learnt
about the Navajo, actually.
I mean...
is, they use everything,
everything.
I mean,
I grew sweetcorn this year.
I threw away the husks, but
never again, never ever again.
- Good?
- That's good.
Next,
a filling of slow-cooked pork
in a sauce of garlic,
herbs, and tomatoes.
Yeah?
Oh, and about 30 chilies.
Hot?
Oh, I see.
And when it cooks,
does it peel away--
- You peel it away from the skin.
- Yes.
Okay, let's go.
Oh, you did good.
Thank you very much.
I was taught by the best.
--After they're cooked
for about 40 minutes
in a steamer,
I can finally
get my hands on one.
- So you peel it off like this.
- Yes.
- Unravel it.
- Mm-hmm.
Are they good, huh?
Oh, my Lord.
Where have you been all my life?
I wanna take... Can I take you
home to England with me?
- Sure.
- Would your husband mind?
-Oh, no.
Let's go. Pack your bags.
We know the Navajos are like...
can do it,
we know they can cook.
We know they've got produce,
we know they've got,
you know, culture and history.
We know that they like
to look after people.
Why are they...
I don't know, why are they not
celebrating their food
in a way that...
You know, 'cause,
at the end of the day,
like, to keep food alive...
restaurants are, like, plugging
a guitar into an amplifier
it lets everyone hear it,
d'you know what I mean?
Thinking back
to the kids in the school,
you know...
Taco Bell, McD's
KFC, yeah! They love that whole
kind of funked-up branded,
fast, hand-held food.
And, you know,
I'm just sort of thinking
those tamales, with
the purple corn from the Navajo,
using their lamb,
slow-cooked till it pulls apart
do some clever stuff with spice.
I think I'm gonna do something
like that with the kids.
I never thought that coming here
to learn about food was gonna be
such a history lesson,
but now I've got a taste for it.
The Navajo problems started
in the 1860s
when they were
driven from their land
and put in concentration camps.
Eventually, regional
peace treaties were struck up
by a series of tribal leaders,
including one called
Peshlakai Etsidi.
Now I'm gonna meet his grandson.
So I'm pretty excited.
I'm gonna go and meet
a guy now who's a hunter
and he's lived
out in the wilderness
for most of his life
in a place called
The Painted Desert,
because of all
the beautiful colors
of the rocks and stuff like that
when the sun comes down
and then in the morning
I'm gonna wake up really early
and they've got this crazy way
of catching rabbits
and rabbits is like
a big deal out here,
and I should also get
a feeling for...
you know, how the Navajo
used to hunt
and gather their food, which is,
you know,
this is what it's all about.
By the time I arrive,
it's pitch-black
and absolutely freezing,
but I'm told that in daylight
you can't move
for rabbits out here.
James.
- Hello.
- I'm Jamie.
How you doing?
Ah, real good, real good.
James Peshlakai and his wife May
are putting me up
in the same spot of desert
that James grew up in,
over 60 years ago.
You're,
you're welcome to sit down
and have some food there.
I did prepare
some stew and tortilla.
- So what stew have you made?
- Beef.
- Yes.
- Great.
- Beef stew.
- How cool.
Well, thank you very much.
You're most welcome.
I'm very excited to go
hunting with you tomorrow.
Yeah.
James grew up
living off the land.
When I started working for
the Navajo Police Department,
that's when
I started traveling out
into the Navajo country.
Things started changing.
The trading posts
started carrying
groceries,
goods that were catered
to tourism.
- Yeah.
- For tourist trade.
So...
- everything became more--
- More junk food.
Yes, and the Navajo
started eating these things.
One of the things that I live on
was Vienna sausage,
hot dogs, baloney.
And...
So you went from being, like,
a hunter's son and a hunter
to eating baloney and hot dogs.
Did that personally
affect your health?
- Oh, yes.
- Did you have--
Three bypasses.
- You have?
- Triple bypasses,
and I'm on my third pacemaker.
- Are you being serious?
- Serious.
Wow.
It was interesting,
listening to him saying that
you know, I used to be a hunter
but even I'm guilty
of succumbing to, sort of...
you know,
fast food and the hot dogs
all that sort of stuff
and regret it now, you know.
He's, he's back to Navajo food
and the Navajo way of life now,
'cause he wants
to get re-balanced, you know.
Oh, my Lord.
Oh, dear.
It was so cold last night.
I got four t-shirts on.
One shirt, one jumper,
and a body-warmer,
and I'm still feeling freezing.
But it was worth it.
Look at this!
Wow.
I've never really done
anything like this before
where it's kind of...
wilderness like this...
as...
separated from other people
as this.
We've got a satellite phone
just so I can touch base
with the wife,
but that kind of
pops in and pops out,
so even that's unreliable.
So...
you know,
it's kinda no connection
with the real world, really,
or my real world, and...
it's kind of uncomfortable
for a bit.
You get a bit nervous,
'cause this,
you know, I'm the worst,
I'm a Crackberry,
you know what I mean?
Someone asks me a question,
it's bosh straight back again.
And...
it's just nice to relax, really.
I could appreciate
a bit more heat.
Hey, James. Morning.
James and his mate Freddy
are prepping the old-school
Navajo hunting gear.
A long, thin stick
with pine resin at the end.
And then, all they do is just
stick that sticky stick
into the hole after the rabbit.
Once you touch it, you feel it,
and you twist it,
and then the hair
gets caught first,
then the skin,
you roll up the skin,
and then you pull
the whole rabbit out.
Alive.
So where we going, James?
Follow the road,
we'll go to those rocks.
Take this road,
turn left, right.
I love the way
you say, take this road
and point
to the wilderness.
Let's look for tracks.
- So there's rabbits nearby?
- There's rabbits here.
Is there anything
out here that'll eat us?
Bears, tigers?
No.
Just coyotes.
Bobcats.
The normal rabbit hunting
that we do in England
is either with a lamp and a gun
or just a gun
or a snare.
It's like going fishing, really,
but for rabbits.
So where
are all these rabbits, then?
Over here?
Somebody came through here
with a dog this morning,
got the rabbits hiding.
Maybe over there?
No tracks here.
-Perhaps they were never here.-
No rabbits.
Who's eaten them all?
Shall we go to KFC?
Shall we go and buy
some rabbits, then?
- Huh?
- Shall we go buy some rabbits?
He already did.
- Oh, you got some?
- Yeah.
- Saturday and Sunday.
- Oh, you've caught them.
Yeah, thanks, boys. You could
have told me that two hours ago.
- Yeah, did he--
- Well, we'll cook up some rabbit
and we'll have
a nice little nosh.
With one of Freddy's rabbits
from the weekend,
I'm gonna make a stew
under the skeptical eyes
of my new friends.
I would normally do
a bit of olive oil
salt and pepper, brown it off,
or maybe a little flour,
salt, and pepper, brown it off.
But what they do is
make a kind of batter.
So, splash of water in a bowl
with two tablespoons of flour
and a pinch of salt.
And obviously
I'm presuming, May,
you want it just thick enough
to stick.
May, what d'you reckon, darling?
- Good.
- About thick enough?
Next, color
the coated rabbit in the pan
for about five minutes.
Freddy, d'you mind just
looking after that meat, mate,
to get it nice
and golden, brother?
I'm glad I've delegated that.
Here, Freddy, you put them
in there for me, brother.
Oh, it's not Freddy,
you changed all of a sudden.
Freddy couldn't hack it.
May knows, she's got it wrapped,
she's got it covered.
Then add
some fragrant vegetables.
I'm using a handful
of chopped onions
celery, and carrots.
See what I'm doing?
I'm wrapping up
my hand, it's so hot.
To thicken,
the Navajos would use
four tablespoons of cornmeal.
So at this point in the game,
I'm gonna go back
with the lovely
brown meat.
Finally, cover it
with about half a liter of stock
chicken or vegetable will do.
But I'm gonna cook that
with a lid
just ajar
for about...
for about two hours, right?
Or if-- Just keep
touching the meat.
The minute the meat
starts pulling off the bone,
you know
that it's a beautiful time.
While that's cooking,
I'm gonna make the dumplings.
Again, I'm using a fifty-fifty
mix of cornmeal and flour.
That seems to be the way
they do things out here.
So here's the thing,
right, my instinct
would be to roll a dumpling,
like in England,
like that.
Now,
this is not cool
for Navajo, is it?
We don't do our dumplings round
because, in our legends,
people were doing
round dumplings,
but that was disrespectful
to the rain or the hail,
the weather.
So one day,
they did that, and...
it hailed,
and a lot of the people
that did that, were stoned
by the hail.
- What, to death?
- So that's why
after that, we never did.
Well, I'd best not do
round ones then, hey?
-No.
- Yes, so--
- If I made you a round dumpling
would you eat it?
No.
- Really? Now, I love that.
- I, I just--
- I love you for that.
- No, I'd dump the whole pot.
Oh, we wouldn't want that,
brother.
Probably write
a letter to Obama.
Anyway, you gotta
roll them out to little snakes
and I'm gonna get approval
before I get stoned.
May, how d'you feel
about my dumpling?
It's good.
- And you'd eat this?
- Yes.
White man,
when they came
they took the prime lands
and drew lines for the Indians.
"Don't step over this line."
So we, we end up trespassing.
So really,
you just got pushed out
pushed out to extreme...
land.
Yes.
So a lot of people say,
why are you living here?
Because the United States
government put us here.
Some of our young people
have gone on to law schools,
and when they come back...
Then you're gonna
kick some...
-We're gonna... chop some heads.
You wanna
eat some food, brother?
- Oh, yes. Oh, yes.
- Okay.
Navajo dumplings rock, man.
What a... what a place to cook.
Whoo!
Thank you for a lovely day.
Well, thank you so much.
How does this compare
to a Navajo rabbit stew?
Am I gonna get hit
by any hailstones tomorrow?
-No.
Mm.
- It's not bad, is it?
- No.
I'm heading back to Roy's
for the opening
of the greenhouse
with a new understanding
of Navajo life
and an idea
of what to cook for the kids.
It's their spirit
and their strength
and their, like, you know...
It's all about this.
It's all about this,
it's all about...
Mother Earth, and respecting it.
Even when it's been some story
from hundreds and hundreds,
if not thousands of years ago,
you're not allowed
to do round dumplings
has to be long ones,
and all that sort of stuff.
It's...
always a respect for food
and nature
and not raping it
and taking the piss out of it
and...
and I love that.
It's my last day
on the Navajo reservation
and I'm cooking
at the opening ceremony
of Roy's community
garden and greenhouse.
I better not forget
my moccasins.
Oh, it's so cold.
I've never felt cold like this,
I gotta be honest.
I've got about ten layers on.
Oh, my Lordy Lord.
- Hey.
- Hey...
How you doing, man?
- It's out this way.
- You got new boots on, dude.
You gonna show us
this greenhouse, then?
- There it is.
- Oh, wow.
- Yeah, yeah.
- Looks like an alien's landed.
- Uh-huh. It's phenomenal.
- That's an amazing shape.
Yes.
The greenhouse
has been donated to Roy
by an eco-group specializing
in state of the art
growing domes.
- Let's have a look.
- Yes, here we go.
- Hey, hey! Well done, man.
- Hey, Alan.
For the greenhouse project
to work,
Roy needs
to get the local kids excited
about growing
and eating their own food.
I'm gonna teach
them tamale wraps
with a Navajo twist.
But instead of using
the yellow corn,
they grow this
beautiful purple corn,
which is absolutely classic
to this part of the world.
I'm making
a stuffing to go in them
using a couple of carrots,
bay leaves,
a diced shoulder
of Roy's rare-breed sheep,
some chopped onions,
and some garlic.
They were kind of raving
about McD's, KFC, Taco Bell,
and they were, like,
into the whole...
hand-held thing,
and, it's quite nice to hit back
with a little bit of a...
freestyle Navajo dish
that's hand-held.
And I'm not saying you wanna
make everything hand-held,
but you know, it just
kind of brings the kids in,
gets them interested.
Then add a few handfuls
of chopped squash.
That's gonna give it
a beautiful sweetness
that hopefully
the kids will appreciate.
You know, if you open them up
you've got all these seeds
and you dry these little babies
and you plant 'em and you get
fifty squash
the next year, so...
you know,
nature's pretty damn kind.
Then add
a small bunch of chopped mint.
Normally put things
like fresh herbs in at the end,
but actually, the mint through
cooking is quite a nice thing.
Next, a tin of pinto beans.
Just like the ones
that I had at Luva's.
All these ingredients can be
grown here on the reservation.
You know,
it's a cheap dish to make
using the cheaper cuts of lamb,
all that veg, beans,
they're all sort of cheap,
basic ingredients.
Finally, blitz
a large handful of chilies
with about
three tins of tomatoes
and leave that to simmer
for a couple of hours.
The use of corn
and beans
has been
really inspiring this week,
like, you know,
I'll be making stuff up,
new breads,
new little dumplings,
and new little
kind of wraps and things to...
you know, buns and stuff.
I'll be making stuff up
for years to come now
because of my experiences.
Right, guys, you ready for it?
-Okay.
So, lovely people, here you go,
here's the stew in the middle
you only need a little bit.
With my purple corn mix
and my spicy stuffing ready,
it's time for them
to get their hands dirty.
Then you take
the back side of it,
pinch it, and you fold it up,
and then we're gonna
put it in a beautiful pile.
Perfect. Perfect.
-I'll let you off that one.
Don't overfill it, sweetheart.
- Was that easy?
- Yes.
- You could do that again?
- Yeah.
Roy and I are off
to a good start with the kids.
So what do you
think of this, then?
Now it's time for them to check
out their new greenhouse.
Hey, guys,
come and try some of this.
- You mean like, eat it?
- Just try it.
Coriander.
No, it won't poison you.
Who wants
to plant some of these?
If you get kids engaged
in planting stuff
and they can come back
every other week and see it grow
and then they can eat it...
End of story, no problems.
No issues.
You know,
if they grow it, they'll eat it.
So, you know, for me
this resembles hope, really.
I think that you should give Roy
a round of applause
'cause he's built this for you.
- Yes.
- Well done, Roy.
Now, the world premiere
of the Navajo tamales.
So Roy's invited
a local celebrity
Miss Northern Navajo.
Here, guys. Here, mate.
That's all right.
Just unwind it.
- Yeah, it's like a hotdog.
- Tastes good.
Who hasn't got one?
No!
I wish the best for the Navajo,
you know, I hope
that, this next decade,
is their decade where they're
recognized and noticed for...
all the wonderful things
that they can offer.
I think there's
a lot that America and...
other countries like England
can learn from it
the way that they live
off the land and treat it.
-But, if it does die off,
and that is a possibility,
I'll be really gutted if
I'm one of those old geeks
that goes,
"I remember going there once
when they used to
do this sort of thing,"
you know.
Yeah, I...
I hope they have
a great future, I really do.
They deserve it.
They deserve it more than any,
actually.
Next time,
I slip off my moccasins
and take to the road again as
I travel through the deep South.
I take on the Americans
at their own game...
...barbecue.
This is a zero-tolerance policy.
He's tough.
Lord, let us kick
some barbecue butt.
Yeah!
But I come face to face
with the darker side.
That's the first time
I've ever heard it said.
You know in reality,
this is still the South.
is not like this at all.
Like many Brits,
my first taste of America
was being taken
to Disney World as a kid.
Twenty years on, I wanna get
a real taste of a country
that's fascinated me ever since.
I'm not used to having
this deep, meaningful,
emotional conversations
over enchiladas, brother.
And the only way I know how,
is by cooking.
Would you like me
to cut some onion for you?
Will you know how?
-Tasting...-Wow.
I love it.
...and getting stuck
into everything Stateside.
♪ Hear me now! ♪
-Raw and uncut...-
- ...and without a guide book.-Excuse
me, d'you speak English?
I'll be on a one-man food quest.
- Here's the rabbit.
- It's all alive.
To be reborn in the US of A.
-Look at this.
On my next stop,
I'm going native.
Smells like
my students common room.
On the Navajo
Indian reservation.
Wait, wait, wait.
No, no, no, no.
I'll be trying to discover
the original American cooking.
Don't laugh at me, Fay.
Doing my best to blend in...
How'd you feel
about my dumpling?
- It's good.
- I'd dump the whole pot.
...and sampling the delights
of a traditional grill.
I've never been to a barbeque
where you get grilled penis
and grilled balls.
Oh, okay, well,
this may be your day.
I'm entering
the Navajo Indian reservation,
deep in the American south-west.
I'm here to discover
America's oldest cuisine,
one that's
on the brink of extinction.
And I suppose
from my point of view
and the reason
why I've come here
is, you know,
the native Indians of America
are the original inhabitants.
So therefore, if you really
wanna get a signpost or a taste
of what the original
American food is,
this is gonna be where it's at.
The Navajo reservation
is the largest area
managed by the Native Americans
in the US.
The tribes have lived on the Res
ever since the government
seized their land in the 1860s.
My expectation...
I don't know, I just, look,
I've only ever seen the movies.
Um... Cowboys and Indians.
I know we weren't
very nice to them,
but I ain't ever done
nothing like this before.
You know, there's
elements of back home
in other parts of America
that I've been to,
little reminders of home.
But I've never seen
anything like this.
Oh, my Lord.
I'm basing myself
in a typical Navajo village.
It's called Teec Nos Pos,
and that means
"Trees in a Circle,"
but there's not
much evidence of it.
-I can't--
I can't believe they've got
sleeping policemen
in Navajo country.
What's all that about?
Hello.
- Hello, Jamie.
- Roy?
I'm staying with
the recently-elected mayor.
Roy Cady's a man
after my own heart
voted in on a radical promise
to protect the Navajo food
and culture.
As you see,
I'm wearing moccasins.
This is a gift from us.
- Oh, wow. Are these proper--
- And this is the--
These are
the proper attire to wear here.
Because we want you
to reconnect to the earth.
So are you ready to eat,
or what are you--
- Yeah, man. Definitely.
- Okay.
Roy's gonna give me
a crash course
in a cuisine that's
on the brink of extinction.
And then,
this here is the sumac soup
- it's like a porridge.
- It's quite gelatinous.
- It's like a...
- Uh-huh. Yes. You boil it...
This may look as unappetizing
as cold tinned tomato soup,
but it's actually delicious.
It's a delicacy
of pureed local sumac berries.
It's got like an incredible
sweet and sour taste,
you know,
like a kind of tutti frutti.
It really gives a sort of...
- fragrant sweetness.
- Mm-hmm.
- How unusual.
- That's the blue corn pancakes.
Oh, wow.
And we use
goat milk or sheep's milk.
- Right.
- So it's a milk pancake.
Even the Navajo corn's
different.
For starters, it's blue
and it's got a sweeter taste
than the yellow corn
that we're used to.
- It's delicious.
- Mm-hmm. Thank you.
- Very delicious.
- Yes.
Should I get these shoes on?
- Oh, yes.
- They look pretty funky.
Yeah.
- That looks great on you.
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
- The elders always say
moccasins can outrun
-Carl Lewis.
And so, that's why they wear it.
It's like...
I feel I'm in a bubble.
This ain't
the America I've ever seen.
This is a different place.
A different place.
The Navajo used to be
great farmers
before the US government of old
nicked
all the most fertile land.
And I mean this, not in
a sort of a derogatory way,
but... it does look third world.
It reminds me of parts
of South Africa I've been to,
near shanty towns
and stuff like that,
and it's cold, I've got
like 20 layers on today.
It's the start
of the Navajo winter
where overnight temperatures
drop well below freezing.
Happily, my new buddy's offered
to tuck me up for the night.
Some Navajos still live
in these traditional hogans,
and if I'm gonna learn
about their food,
I wanna understand
how they live.
And so you can already
kind of feel the heat here.
Hey, I'm loving it,
I'm loving my new--
Yeah, well, it keeps 'em warm.
I wanna build
one of these in Essex.
You should.
What do I do
with these, brother?
If you can tell
the head from the tail,
you arrange it to where
you sleep towards the tail.
So I put my head near its bum.
Yeah, you smell
the bum all night long.
-Oh, no.
Yeah.
It turns out that booze
is banned on the reservation,
so instead, for a nightcap,
it's time for Roy
to spark one up.
And so why don't I just
go ahead and light this pipe.
It's a potent mix
of legally-grown plants
including mint and lavender
along with some
other secret ingredients.
Smells like
my students common room.
Did you just blow
that on your t-shirt?
Mm-hmm.
Do I have to do the same?
I don't know what to do.
You can inhale some,
and you can blow
the puff of smoke on yourself
down your t-shirt,
and so it's basically
just a blessing
to yourself.
It's to rejuvenate the soul
and also the mind, the spirit
-and to help you sleep well.
It's really a beautiful place.
I'm quite looking forward
to sleeping here tonight.
You know,
it's just not British, is it?
It's just not British, but...
No, it's easy to giggle
when someone goes into that...
You know,
when he does all the blessings
and talks about
Mother Earth and...
you know, I mean, I think...
what I'm trying to do
is just shut up and...
learn, and...
Yeah, a lot of it is quite
a culture shock to me, but...
I'm up for it. I'm gonna dig it.
I'm gonna open my eyes
and I'm gonna listen.
So yeah, this is cool.
It would be nice
if this place had a toilet.
I went to bed
at nine o'clock last night.
It's now six in the morning.
I had to get up and have
a pee three times, but...
and light the fire, four times.
The best night's sleep
I've had in ten years.
I swear to you,
the best night's sleep.
But there's no time to enjoy
my first-ever
lie-in in a mud hut.
Roy wants me
to be ready for sunrise.
But most importantly,
for a man of my stature...
There we go, eye hydrator.
And I swear to you, right,
I am not a vain man
I just like
to look after myself.
That is the secret
of my success.
Who's that?
- Is that you, Roy?
- Yes.
Hi, man. Am I all right,
just to brush my teeth?
Yeah, perfectly.
♪ She'll be coming round ♪
♪ The mountain when she comes ♪
Roy starts every day
with prayers to the Navajo gods.
This is a morning offering
that we do every day.
So, an offering,
so you'd give something?
Exactly, so we offer corn again.
White corn represents us
as male figures,
yellow corn represents
the female.
And so...
we face to the east
and then...
we invite the fresh, clean air
into our system.
- Do I have to do this?
- Mm-hmm.
And then you release it.
I'm gonna be a bit rubbish,
but my prayers might get better
as the week goes on.
Oh, wonderful, yes.
I just wanna say hello
to all the deities
Mm-hmm.
If you can all
look after us today,
help us to understand
your people.
Ideally not too cold,
if that's possible.
- Mm-hmm.
- Find some nice food,
and most of all,
have lots of fun.
- Love and fun.
- Yes.
Walk in beauty.
That's all right, innit?
- Wonderful.
- Not bad
- for the first day, is it?
- No, that's beautiful, yes.
-Thanks, mate.
In actual fact...
my trip here is
actually something
I always wanted to do.
Right,
all my mates went traveling
when they were
sort of 16, 17, 18...
on those tickets
that go round the world.
Shagging and getting drunk
and all sorts of stuff
and my old man was
very, very adamant
that cooking's
a young boy's game
and I should keep
in the kitchen.
So while I was getting
phone calls from my mates
pulling all the girls
in parts of America and Cuba...
...I was in a basement
of the Neal Street Restaurant
in Covent Garden.
But you know, I wouldn't
change it for the world,
but this is my time now.
When I'm in a new area,
I always try
and visit local chefs,
but in my time
on the reservation,
I haven't seen
a single Navajo restaurant.
Instead, Roy suggested
that I meet Luva de Huzy
a food campaigner and author
of the first Navajo cookbook.
She's the closest thing
to a Navajo Nigella.
Hi, is that-- Are you Luva?
- Yes.
- Thank you for seeing me.
All right, well,
come over here, you...
you're gonna get to see
my girls in here.
- Okay?
- Hello, girls.
- Oh, hello.
- How are you?
- Just fine.
- Nice to meet you.
- Yes.
- How do you do?
- Welcome to the Navajo Nation.
- Yeah.
Luva can remember
when the government
tried to strip
the traditional food culture
from the Navajo
once and for all.
Before the...
In the '30s, 1930s,
they did a reduction
on the livestock
the government did that.
United States government came
because they were saying that
the Navajos are overgrazing.
How can you overgraze...
this big...
How can it be overgrazed?
It's the biggest amount
of space I've ever seen.
Uh-huh. I was just
a little girl, I have seen it.
I have seen, I was told
not to look at it, but I did.
I always sneak off
and look at it,
and they shot all the sheep,
and they shot them,
and then they put
gas on them and burned them.
Really? Not even,
didn't even eat them?
I saw my grandfather,
my grandmother, everybody...
- Crying.
- Crying,
'cause this is what they did.
They did the same thing
to the horses and the cows.
So before they did that,
the Navajos were
fully independent
fully healthy
and they lived off the land?
Yes. Today it has changed,
everything has changed.
Everybody is going to the...
Walmart and the supermarkets.
But no supermarket shopping
for Luva.
She uses old Navajo ingredients
like cedar ash,
which she makes soups with.
We're gonna put the ash...
So the ash,
the ash goes in the bowl.
And then you...
So this is, I mean,
this is very interesting, this.
Mm-hmm.
-I, I...
You, you mix it like,
I mean, just...
mix it with water.
Weird as it may seem,
adding ash to the corn
helps to release
the essential vitamins
that are good for you.
All the same,
I can't believe
it's gonna taste good.
We've got about
two liters of water in here
with a teaspoon
and a bit of ash in it,
which I've never heard of
before, but I'm with you.
- Now, I'm gonna take the corn.
- More water.
In cold water.
- I'll be your whisker.
- Okay.
So you've got
like a slop here now.
- Uh-huh, and then--
- And in here...
It's got the most
- wonderful smell, like--
- Yes.
- Malty, sweet.
- Mm-hmm.
Well, I've never made
a dish like this before.
So basically,
we're making like a cross
between a porridge
and a polenta.
Yes.
Oh, it's thickened straightaway,
look at that.
The next dish is
a bit closer to home,
which is a bit of a relief.
Okay, so we got,
what's that, lamb mince?
This is just beef, just beef.
We'll put some onions in it
and then we'll put the chili.
And this is
hot chili or sweet chili?
- Hot.
- Hot chili.
Now this dish sounds exciting,
what is this dish
it's like a beef chili?
Chili beans.
- Yes.
- Come on. All right. Lovely.
Luva used to sell
what she cooked
from a concession stand
outside the front of her house
until it was closed down
by the authorities.
It was clean in there,
we cleaned everything, and...
and then the Public Health came
and said that it was unclean
for people to eat--
- But they were wrong--
- On the dirt.
- And that's all that--
- Oh, they're not allowed
- to eat it on the dirt?
- Yeah, and that's the only way,
you know, Navajos ever lived
all our lives
eating on the dirt.
Yeah.
-Okay.
You want the chili
going in, my darling?
I just know that this is gonna
be delicious, I just know it.
- Oh.
- I just know it.
Finally,
the chilies and the beef
go in with the pinto beans
a local staple
that look like borlotti beans
but they have an earthier taste.
I pray this
in the name of Jesus. Amen.
Just help yourself.
Time to tuck
into Luva's chili beans
and cedar ash
and corn mush soup.
And eat the way you wanna eat.
This soup is... fascinating.
It's almost like gelatinous.
This reminds me of semolina,
in England.
- It's delicious.
- It's delicious, yes.
Very simple, very clean,
but delicious.
Wow, look at this.
Those beans
are absolutely killer,
they're so good.
Oh, they're so good.
The beginnings
of American civilization was
based on these incredible people
that lived off the land,
respected it and ate well,
and ate well, you know.
It's such
an extreme, modern-day America.
You know, junk food city,
overweight,
obese people everywhere.
In actual fact, you know what,
there's so much
to celebrate in America
it's such a wonderful country,
but Americans know
that they're in the shit,
they know
that their health is so bad
that...
they probably don't know yet
that a lot can be learnt
from the people that they stole
the country from.
As well as being
the local mayor,
Roy Cady runs the sheep farm
that he grew up on.
He's dedicated his life
to preserving the churro sheep
the breed that Luva saw
being exterminated as a child.
-They say sheep is life,
because it's a life-giver
it also, you know,
nutritionally,
it makes us stronger
and so we care for them.
- Yeah.
- And in turn they care for us.
So massive respect to the--
- Exactly.
- To the food that you eat.
I feel like
I've gone to Bethlehem.
Oh, wonderful!
Roy's is like a commune
for woolly animals.
Goats, alpacas, and sheep.
A lot of this
particular breed of sheep
they just drove 'em and just
shot 'em in their millions.
So the sheep were quite
representative to them,
they obviously knew,
I guess they knew
it was important to you,
really, wasn't it?
-Mm-hmm.
You're not considered
a true Navajo
unless you know
how to butcher a sheep
the traditional way,
a method that I've been warned
I might find shocking.
A couple here.
- That's a clever bit of kit.
- Mm-hmm.
Do one wrap.
-Okay.
-How do I say hello?
-And you shake your hands.
Two village elders,
Ella and Fay, are here
to carry out the ceremonial
rites of slaughter.
- What are you doing there, Roy?
- She's blessing the sheep
and she's letting it know
that this is the purpose for...
for his life and for helping us.
It's such an incredibly
subservient animal, isn't it?
Mm-hmm.
Ah.
I notice that...
I'm looking rather good
in my moccasins, while...
your friend there
is wearing Nikes.
I know. She likes
to wear Nikes because...
- They make her run faster.
- Yeah.
There you go. Happy days.
Merry Christmas.
Thank you.
- Interesting.
- See, that is our rib.
When we butcher ours,
we would just have the rib
and then attach
the eye meat like a handle.
Sure.
- Can I have a go?
- Please.
Wait, wait, wait.
No, no, no, no.
You break it first.
Say "oh," Jamie.
- Say "oh."
- Oh.
- That means yes.
- That means yes.
- Yes. Oh.
- Oh. Yes.
Okay.
This is
a completely different style
of butchery than I'm used to.
Oh, wow. Look at this bread.
Is this a bread?
Yeah, that's a dough
-and she's gonna make tortillas.-Oh, my.
To go with the mutton.
The purplish blue corn
gives the tortillasa sweeter flavor.
What, 50 percent flour,
50 percent corn?
Yeah, there's a mixture
of half and half in there.
She's gotta teach me
how to do this.
Mm-hmm.
She'll start telling me off
in a minute.
- Don't, don't laugh at me, Fay.
- Uh-huh.
Come on, darling.
What's she saying? She sounds
like she's taking the mickey.
Whoa, look at that one.
That's all right, innit?
- I wanna take Fay home with me.
- Yes.
To England.
-Does she fancy a toy boy?
Mind you, you wouldn't wanna get
in the doghouse,
you'd end up strung up
like that ram.
No.
It's freezing cold,
not exactly the weather
for cooking outside,
but there's nothing
like a Navajo barbecue.
Small intestines,
heart, bit of lungs
stuff to put hairs
on your chest.
What about the penis?
You've got the balls?
- What about, what did you--
- Oh, those are all
you cook 'em and you eat 'em.
I've never been
to a barbecue where you get
grilled penis and grilled balls.
Oh, okay, well, you might just,
this may be your day.
- Yeah.
- Yeah. Who knows.
That is old-school.
You know, what a pleasure.
It's old-school.
I mean, how bonkers is this,
how wonderful is this.
I mean, wow.
Now you're talking.
Is this common
with the younger Navajo now?
It's not common
as we want it to be,
they prefer burgers and fries
and Taco Bell and...
fast food.
The, the indigenous people here
the native people
here in America,
have the highest
epidemic of diabetes.
- Really?
- And so...
the majority of them
are the youth.
What about obesity?
- Obesity is the same, you know.
- Right.
There's a lot of obese children
and everything has just become
so convenient for us.
- Right.
- That, you know,
they don't have self-identity
in any sense.
Yeah, this is kind
of where it all began, really.
Tribes of Indians
that lived off the land,
but the new generation
of Navajo, they're moving
away from the sort
of the old ways
to being Westernized, and...
you know, and at the same time
they're becoming the most
unhealthy people in America.
That's the blood sausage.
Wow.
Bless your heart,
it's like black pudding.
Mm-hmm.
You can put a little salt on
if you want.
Mm.
It's good, did she put
any bran or flour into it?
Mm-hmm. You put the cornmeal.
- That's what I can taste.
- Mm-hmm. Yeah.
Roy wants the local kids
to learn the food traditions
of the village elders,
a kind of Navajo food
preservation society.
So Roy, I mean
how is your people gonna address
getting the young people back
to some of their roots?
Our plan is to get... is
to start cooking for them again,
and also, even getting them
to garden, some of them.
- So growing's important to you.
- Exactly.
I would like for you
to sort of help me
excite the youth so that they
can see and they can taste
some of the wonderful products
that you can produce,
and so if you could just help us
that would be so awesome.
Normally I do it
in my own country,
but it would be my pleasure
to do it with you.
What fast food restaurants
are we talking about,
shout out some names?
Burger King,
McDonald's, McDonald's.
KFC. Taco Bell. McDonald's.
What, what...
Just tell me
this one thing, I mean...
I don't know
how closely you feel
emotionally with your ancestry,
or the Navajo way,
but it kinda seems to me
that you're quite excited about
the Burger Kings,
the Pizza Huts, the KFCs...
If there was
a Navajo fast food restaurant,
would you go to that?
Yes.
So... I think, you know,
I think what happens is
the fast food restaurants
are really funky and quick.
- Yes.
- And then there's us lot
and it's kinda like
two different worlds.
- Yeah.
- And one's kind of exciting
and one seems
- a little worthy.
- Yeah.
So what we're gonna do,
is make it funky.
Me and Roy
are gonna funk it up a bit.
-Yeah.
As the school's
right next door to Roy's farm,
he wants to get the kids
involved in a project
to grow their own alternative
to fast food.
So where's it gonna go, then?
Just right
where that goat is walking.
Small food-producing gardens
are a bit like allotments,
were a crucial part
of Native American life.
Now Roy's hoping to rekindle
that tradition
with the help of 21st century
gardening techniques.
Well, the greenhouse
is about 20 foot...
- Right.
- ...wide.
And then the height is the same.
So really, by the end
of this week you're gonna have
- a brand-new greenhouse.
- Exactly.
- Planting, growing.
- Yes.
You're gonna plant up
this field.
- Yes.
- You're gonna be doing cooking.
Mm-hmm.
The elders will
obviously get involved.
- Exactly.
- So a lot's gotta happen here
- in the next few weeks.
- Oh, a lot's gonna happen.
We're excited. We're just really
looking forward to this...
this project.
Shall we get back?
I'm gonna devote
the rest of my time here
to helping Roy get
that desert flowering again.
At the end of the day,
it's kind of, like,
we're always moving on
in life, aren't we?
Everything's always evolving,
but you do need people like Roy
locally, all over the world
to sort of say, "Hey, hey, hey,
just a minute, like, wait up."
Don't forget all this stuff,
this was quite good, you know?
I'm traveling
across the Navajo reservation
helping local mayor Roy Cady
get the younger generation
back into native food.
I can really relate
to what Roy's doing.
You know,
he wants to inspire the kids,
he wants them
to live better lives,
he wants them to be healthier.
I think the difference
for Roy is...
is that, you know,
the people of England
aren't a sort of
small ethnic minority
that have been, sort of...
pushed around a bit,
you know, I mean...
Roy is really trying to save
the Navajo ways.
I've been looking for
a good local restaurant,
but to find one, I've had
to come off the reservation,
which is the size of Scotland,
and get back
into mainstream USA.
Despite nearly 40 percent
of the population
being Native American,
the town of Gallup doesn't have
a single Navajo restaurant.
Instead, there are hundreds of
fast food and foreign outlets.
Some of the most successful
are Mexican.
And I think
what's quite interesting is
if you look at the pantry of...
Native Indian cooking
and Mexican cooking,
you know,
the use of grains, herbs,
spice, flat-breads...
they're really quite similar,
yet Mexican food is going
from strength to strength
and people are digging it,
digging it, digging it,
and the Indian cooking
is struggling, you know,
it's really struggling.
And I wanna see why,
Why is this?
El Metate,
much-loved for the classic
Mexican street snacks,
called tamalesis owned by Rebeca Rodríguez.
I don't see... I've never been
in a Navajo restaurant here.
- It's strange, isn't it?
- That's strange, yes,
because we use
a lot of the same...
the same...
ingredients.
Garlic, chili.
Do you think it's
because the Navajo people...
it's harder for them
to set up business, or...?
I don't think so, because
we can do it, they can do it,
but they keep their tradition
too close to them.
- Really?
- Yes.
- That's interesting.
- And we are, we, like,
we want to bring our tradition
from Mexico, so...
So, you, what you're saying is,
the Navajo,
or the Indian reservations
keep their culture close,
and precious,
and try to protect it.
- Yeah, I think they need to--
- And then the Mexican people
just get out there
and celebrate it.
- Yes. Yes.
- And wanna share it.
-You gonna teach me tamales?-Yes.
I've always wanted
to make tamales.
This is maseca.
- This is corn maize, yeah?
- Yeah, it's corn.
Start by
adding a little baking powder
to a dough
of flour and cornmeal.
Then add lard and a little water
to bind together.
This is the exciting bit,
'cause I've never
done this before.
So we, we put it in here.
The corn dough
goes into corn husks,
which have been softened
in water.
Oh.
Don't laugh.
I'm a tamale virgin.
The fifty-fifty mix
of corn and flour
is the same as the Navajotortillas
that I made at Roy's.
I think that's what I've learnt
about the Navajo, actually.
I mean...
is, they use everything,
everything.
I mean,
I grew sweetcorn this year.
I threw away the husks, but
never again, never ever again.
- Good?
- That's good.
Next,
a filling of slow-cooked pork
in a sauce of garlic,
herbs, and tomatoes.
Yeah?
Oh, and about 30 chilies.
Hot?
Oh, I see.
And when it cooks,
does it peel away--
- You peel it away from the skin.
- Yes.
Okay, let's go.
Oh, you did good.
Thank you very much.
I was taught by the best.
--After they're cooked
for about 40 minutes
in a steamer,
I can finally
get my hands on one.
- So you peel it off like this.
- Yes.
- Unravel it.
- Mm-hmm.
Are they good, huh?
Oh, my Lord.
Where have you been all my life?
I wanna take... Can I take you
home to England with me?
- Sure.
- Would your husband mind?
-Oh, no.
Let's go. Pack your bags.
We know the Navajos are like...
can do it,
we know they can cook.
We know they've got produce,
we know they've got,
you know, culture and history.
We know that they like
to look after people.
Why are they...
I don't know, why are they not
celebrating their food
in a way that...
You know, 'cause,
at the end of the day,
like, to keep food alive...
restaurants are, like, plugging
a guitar into an amplifier
it lets everyone hear it,
d'you know what I mean?
Thinking back
to the kids in the school,
you know...
Taco Bell, McD's
KFC, yeah! They love that whole
kind of funked-up branded,
fast, hand-held food.
And, you know,
I'm just sort of thinking
those tamales, with
the purple corn from the Navajo,
using their lamb,
slow-cooked till it pulls apart
do some clever stuff with spice.
I think I'm gonna do something
like that with the kids.
I never thought that coming here
to learn about food was gonna be
such a history lesson,
but now I've got a taste for it.
The Navajo problems started
in the 1860s
when they were
driven from their land
and put in concentration camps.
Eventually, regional
peace treaties were struck up
by a series of tribal leaders,
including one called
Peshlakai Etsidi.
Now I'm gonna meet his grandson.
So I'm pretty excited.
I'm gonna go and meet
a guy now who's a hunter
and he's lived
out in the wilderness
for most of his life
in a place called
The Painted Desert,
because of all
the beautiful colors
of the rocks and stuff like that
when the sun comes down
and then in the morning
I'm gonna wake up really early
and they've got this crazy way
of catching rabbits
and rabbits is like
a big deal out here,
and I should also get
a feeling for...
you know, how the Navajo
used to hunt
and gather their food, which is,
you know,
this is what it's all about.
By the time I arrive,
it's pitch-black
and absolutely freezing,
but I'm told that in daylight
you can't move
for rabbits out here.
James.
- Hello.
- I'm Jamie.
How you doing?
Ah, real good, real good.
James Peshlakai and his wife May
are putting me up
in the same spot of desert
that James grew up in,
over 60 years ago.
You're,
you're welcome to sit down
and have some food there.
I did prepare
some stew and tortilla.
- So what stew have you made?
- Beef.
- Yes.
- Great.
- Beef stew.
- How cool.
Well, thank you very much.
You're most welcome.
I'm very excited to go
hunting with you tomorrow.
Yeah.
James grew up
living off the land.
When I started working for
the Navajo Police Department,
that's when
I started traveling out
into the Navajo country.
Things started changing.
The trading posts
started carrying
groceries,
goods that were catered
to tourism.
- Yeah.
- For tourist trade.
So...
- everything became more--
- More junk food.
Yes, and the Navajo
started eating these things.
One of the things that I live on
was Vienna sausage,
hot dogs, baloney.
And...
So you went from being, like,
a hunter's son and a hunter
to eating baloney and hot dogs.
Did that personally
affect your health?
- Oh, yes.
- Did you have--
Three bypasses.
- You have?
- Triple bypasses,
and I'm on my third pacemaker.
- Are you being serious?
- Serious.
Wow.
It was interesting,
listening to him saying that
you know, I used to be a hunter
but even I'm guilty
of succumbing to, sort of...
you know,
fast food and the hot dogs
all that sort of stuff
and regret it now, you know.
He's, he's back to Navajo food
and the Navajo way of life now,
'cause he wants
to get re-balanced, you know.
Oh, my Lord.
Oh, dear.
It was so cold last night.
I got four t-shirts on.
One shirt, one jumper,
and a body-warmer,
and I'm still feeling freezing.
But it was worth it.
Look at this!
Wow.
I've never really done
anything like this before
where it's kind of...
wilderness like this...
as...
separated from other people
as this.
We've got a satellite phone
just so I can touch base
with the wife,
but that kind of
pops in and pops out,
so even that's unreliable.
So...
you know,
it's kinda no connection
with the real world, really,
or my real world, and...
it's kind of uncomfortable
for a bit.
You get a bit nervous,
'cause this,
you know, I'm the worst,
I'm a Crackberry,
you know what I mean?
Someone asks me a question,
it's bosh straight back again.
And...
it's just nice to relax, really.
I could appreciate
a bit more heat.
Hey, James. Morning.
James and his mate Freddy
are prepping the old-school
Navajo hunting gear.
A long, thin stick
with pine resin at the end.
And then, all they do is just
stick that sticky stick
into the hole after the rabbit.
Once you touch it, you feel it,
and you twist it,
and then the hair
gets caught first,
then the skin,
you roll up the skin,
and then you pull
the whole rabbit out.
Alive.
So where we going, James?
Follow the road,
we'll go to those rocks.
Take this road,
turn left, right.
I love the way
you say, take this road
and point
to the wilderness.
Let's look for tracks.
- So there's rabbits nearby?
- There's rabbits here.
Is there anything
out here that'll eat us?
Bears, tigers?
No.
Just coyotes.
Bobcats.
The normal rabbit hunting
that we do in England
is either with a lamp and a gun
or just a gun
or a snare.
It's like going fishing, really,
but for rabbits.
So where
are all these rabbits, then?
Over here?
Somebody came through here
with a dog this morning,
got the rabbits hiding.
Maybe over there?
No tracks here.
-Perhaps they were never here.-
No rabbits.
Who's eaten them all?
Shall we go to KFC?
Shall we go and buy
some rabbits, then?
- Huh?
- Shall we go buy some rabbits?
He already did.
- Oh, you got some?
- Yeah.
- Saturday and Sunday.
- Oh, you've caught them.
Yeah, thanks, boys. You could
have told me that two hours ago.
- Yeah, did he--
- Well, we'll cook up some rabbit
and we'll have
a nice little nosh.
With one of Freddy's rabbits
from the weekend,
I'm gonna make a stew
under the skeptical eyes
of my new friends.
I would normally do
a bit of olive oil
salt and pepper, brown it off,
or maybe a little flour,
salt, and pepper, brown it off.
But what they do is
make a kind of batter.
So, splash of water in a bowl
with two tablespoons of flour
and a pinch of salt.
And obviously
I'm presuming, May,
you want it just thick enough
to stick.
May, what d'you reckon, darling?
- Good.
- About thick enough?
Next, color
the coated rabbit in the pan
for about five minutes.
Freddy, d'you mind just
looking after that meat, mate,
to get it nice
and golden, brother?
I'm glad I've delegated that.
Here, Freddy, you put them
in there for me, brother.
Oh, it's not Freddy,
you changed all of a sudden.
Freddy couldn't hack it.
May knows, she's got it wrapped,
she's got it covered.
Then add
some fragrant vegetables.
I'm using a handful
of chopped onions
celery, and carrots.
See what I'm doing?
I'm wrapping up
my hand, it's so hot.
To thicken,
the Navajos would use
four tablespoons of cornmeal.
So at this point in the game,
I'm gonna go back
with the lovely
brown meat.
Finally, cover it
with about half a liter of stock
chicken or vegetable will do.
But I'm gonna cook that
with a lid
just ajar
for about...
for about two hours, right?
Or if-- Just keep
touching the meat.
The minute the meat
starts pulling off the bone,
you know
that it's a beautiful time.
While that's cooking,
I'm gonna make the dumplings.
Again, I'm using a fifty-fifty
mix of cornmeal and flour.
That seems to be the way
they do things out here.
So here's the thing,
right, my instinct
would be to roll a dumpling,
like in England,
like that.
Now,
this is not cool
for Navajo, is it?
We don't do our dumplings round
because, in our legends,
people were doing
round dumplings,
but that was disrespectful
to the rain or the hail,
the weather.
So one day,
they did that, and...
it hailed,
and a lot of the people
that did that, were stoned
by the hail.
- What, to death?
- So that's why
after that, we never did.
Well, I'd best not do
round ones then, hey?
-No.
- Yes, so--
- If I made you a round dumpling
would you eat it?
No.
- Really? Now, I love that.
- I, I just--
- I love you for that.
- No, I'd dump the whole pot.
Oh, we wouldn't want that,
brother.
Probably write
a letter to Obama.
Anyway, you gotta
roll them out to little snakes
and I'm gonna get approval
before I get stoned.
May, how d'you feel
about my dumpling?
It's good.
- And you'd eat this?
- Yes.
White man,
when they came
they took the prime lands
and drew lines for the Indians.
"Don't step over this line."
So we, we end up trespassing.
So really,
you just got pushed out
pushed out to extreme...
land.
Yes.
So a lot of people say,
why are you living here?
Because the United States
government put us here.
Some of our young people
have gone on to law schools,
and when they come back...
Then you're gonna
kick some...
-We're gonna... chop some heads.
You wanna
eat some food, brother?
- Oh, yes. Oh, yes.
- Okay.
Navajo dumplings rock, man.
What a... what a place to cook.
Whoo!
Thank you for a lovely day.
Well, thank you so much.
How does this compare
to a Navajo rabbit stew?
Am I gonna get hit
by any hailstones tomorrow?
-No.
Mm.
- It's not bad, is it?
- No.
I'm heading back to Roy's
for the opening
of the greenhouse
with a new understanding
of Navajo life
and an idea
of what to cook for the kids.
It's their spirit
and their strength
and their, like, you know...
It's all about this.
It's all about this,
it's all about...
Mother Earth, and respecting it.
Even when it's been some story
from hundreds and hundreds,
if not thousands of years ago,
you're not allowed
to do round dumplings
has to be long ones,
and all that sort of stuff.
It's...
always a respect for food
and nature
and not raping it
and taking the piss out of it
and...
and I love that.
It's my last day
on the Navajo reservation
and I'm cooking
at the opening ceremony
of Roy's community
garden and greenhouse.
I better not forget
my moccasins.
Oh, it's so cold.
I've never felt cold like this,
I gotta be honest.
I've got about ten layers on.
Oh, my Lordy Lord.
- Hey.
- Hey...
How you doing, man?
- It's out this way.
- You got new boots on, dude.
You gonna show us
this greenhouse, then?
- There it is.
- Oh, wow.
- Yeah, yeah.
- Looks like an alien's landed.
- Uh-huh. It's phenomenal.
- That's an amazing shape.
Yes.
The greenhouse
has been donated to Roy
by an eco-group specializing
in state of the art
growing domes.
- Let's have a look.
- Yes, here we go.
- Hey, hey! Well done, man.
- Hey, Alan.
For the greenhouse project
to work,
Roy needs
to get the local kids excited
about growing
and eating their own food.
I'm gonna teach
them tamale wraps
with a Navajo twist.
But instead of using
the yellow corn,
they grow this
beautiful purple corn,
which is absolutely classic
to this part of the world.
I'm making
a stuffing to go in them
using a couple of carrots,
bay leaves,
a diced shoulder
of Roy's rare-breed sheep,
some chopped onions,
and some garlic.
They were kind of raving
about McD's, KFC, Taco Bell,
and they were, like,
into the whole...
hand-held thing,
and, it's quite nice to hit back
with a little bit of a...
freestyle Navajo dish
that's hand-held.
And I'm not saying you wanna
make everything hand-held,
but you know, it just
kind of brings the kids in,
gets them interested.
Then add a few handfuls
of chopped squash.
That's gonna give it
a beautiful sweetness
that hopefully
the kids will appreciate.
You know, if you open them up
you've got all these seeds
and you dry these little babies
and you plant 'em and you get
fifty squash
the next year, so...
you know,
nature's pretty damn kind.
Then add
a small bunch of chopped mint.
Normally put things
like fresh herbs in at the end,
but actually, the mint through
cooking is quite a nice thing.
Next, a tin of pinto beans.
Just like the ones
that I had at Luva's.
All these ingredients can be
grown here on the reservation.
You know,
it's a cheap dish to make
using the cheaper cuts of lamb,
all that veg, beans,
they're all sort of cheap,
basic ingredients.
Finally, blitz
a large handful of chilies
with about
three tins of tomatoes
and leave that to simmer
for a couple of hours.
The use of corn
and beans
has been
really inspiring this week,
like, you know,
I'll be making stuff up,
new breads,
new little dumplings,
and new little
kind of wraps and things to...
you know, buns and stuff.
I'll be making stuff up
for years to come now
because of my experiences.
Right, guys, you ready for it?
-Okay.
So, lovely people, here you go,
here's the stew in the middle
you only need a little bit.
With my purple corn mix
and my spicy stuffing ready,
it's time for them
to get their hands dirty.
Then you take
the back side of it,
pinch it, and you fold it up,
and then we're gonna
put it in a beautiful pile.
Perfect. Perfect.
-I'll let you off that one.
Don't overfill it, sweetheart.
- Was that easy?
- Yes.
- You could do that again?
- Yeah.
Roy and I are off
to a good start with the kids.
So what do you
think of this, then?
Now it's time for them to check
out their new greenhouse.
Hey, guys,
come and try some of this.
- You mean like, eat it?
- Just try it.
Coriander.
No, it won't poison you.
Who wants
to plant some of these?
If you get kids engaged
in planting stuff
and they can come back
every other week and see it grow
and then they can eat it...
End of story, no problems.
No issues.
You know,
if they grow it, they'll eat it.
So, you know, for me
this resembles hope, really.
I think that you should give Roy
a round of applause
'cause he's built this for you.
- Yes.
- Well done, Roy.
Now, the world premiere
of the Navajo tamales.
So Roy's invited
a local celebrity
Miss Northern Navajo.
Here, guys. Here, mate.
That's all right.
Just unwind it.
- Yeah, it's like a hotdog.
- Tastes good.
Who hasn't got one?
No!
I wish the best for the Navajo,
you know, I hope
that, this next decade,
is their decade where they're
recognized and noticed for...
all the wonderful things
that they can offer.
I think there's
a lot that America and...
other countries like England
can learn from it
the way that they live
off the land and treat it.
-But, if it does die off,
and that is a possibility,
I'll be really gutted if
I'm one of those old geeks
that goes,
"I remember going there once
when they used to
do this sort of thing,"
you know.
Yeah, I...
I hope they have
a great future, I really do.
They deserve it.
They deserve it more than any,
actually.
Next time,
I slip off my moccasins
and take to the road again as
I travel through the deep South.
I take on the Americans
at their own game...
...barbecue.
This is a zero-tolerance policy.
He's tough.
Lord, let us kick
some barbecue butt.
Yeah!
But I come face to face
with the darker side.
That's the first time
I've ever heard it said.
You know in reality,
this is still the South.