How It's Made (2001–…): Season 8, Episode 12 - Fishing Reels/Miniature Houses/Kitchen Mixers - full transcript
Find out how fishing reels, miniature houses, and kitchen mixers are made.
Narrator:
TODAY ON "HOW IT'S MADE"...
FISHING REELS...
...MINIATURE HOUSES...
...AND KITCHEN MIXERS.
THE CHINESE IN THE 12th CENTURY
WERE FIRST TO WIND EXCESS
FISHING LINE ON THEIR RODS
BEFORE UNREELING IT
BACK INTO THE WATER.
TODAY'S REELS HAVE GEARS
TO QUICKLY DEPLOY
AND RETRIEVE THE LINE.
THEY'RE MADE WITH LIGHTWEIGHT,
HIGH-STRENGTH MATERIALS
SO YOU CAN CATCH BIGGER,
STRONGER FISH --
OR AT LEAST TRY TO.
ANTIQUE REELS ARE HEAVY
AND HAVE JUST ONE SPEED.
MODERN REELS HAVE
TWO SPEEDS AND FEWER PARTS.
TO MAKE A REEL'S FRAME,
A COMPUTER-GUIDED ROUTER
CUTS FOUR OPENINGS
IN A CYLINDER MADE OF ALUMINUM.
THEY LET THE ANGLER --
THE PERSON FISHING --
ACCESS THE SPOOL
INSIDE THE FRAME
TO UNDO ANY KNOTS IN THE LINE.
ANOTHER CUTTING MACHINE SHAPES
A STAINLESS-STEEL BLANK
INTO A SPINDLE,
THE INNER PART OF THE REEL
AROUND WHICH
THE FISHING LINE WINDS.
IT ALSO CARVES
TWO PINION GEARS INTO THE PIECE.
THE HIGH GEAR
RETRIEVES LINE FASTER.
THE LOW GEAR GIVES MORE POWER
TO FIGHT BIG FISH.
THE MACHINE'S CUTTERS
ARE MADE OF CARBIDE,
AN EXTREMELY DURABLE MATERIAL.
EVEN SO,
WORKERS CHANGE THEM WEEKLY.
ANOTHER CUTTER CARVES
THE REEL'S MAIN GEARS --
A HIGH-SPEED AND A LOW-SPEED.
THESE MAIN GEARS
INTERACT WITH THE PINION GEARS
TO MAKE THE SPOOL REVOLVE.
THIS LETS THE ANGLER
WIND LINE BACK ONTO THE REEL.
THIS CUTTER
DRILLS SMALL INDENTATIONS,
PART OF THE REEL'S DRAG SYSTEM,
WHICH LETS THE ANGLER
ADJUST LINE TENSION
TO FIGHT LARGE FISH.
THE NEXT CUTTER
ENGRAVES THE COMPANY NAME
INTO ONE OF THE REEL'S
TWO SIDE PLATES.
YET ANOTHER CUTTER ENGRAVES
THE DRAG SETTINGS --
"1" THROUGH "4"
AND THEN "STRIKE."
STRIKE LETS THE ANGLER
FIGHT FISH
WEIGHING UP TO 2,000 POUNDS.
NEXT,
A PROCESS CALLED ANODIZING.
THE SIDE PLATES ARE DIPPED
IN A SERIES OF CHEMICAL BATHS
THAT BIND A GOLD-COLORED DYE
TO THEIR SURFACE.
NOW TIME
TO ASSEMBLE THE FISHING REEL.
FIRST, THEY APPLY
WATERPROOF GREASE AND LUBRICANT
TO TWO SAFETY CATCHES
THAT PREVENT AN ANGLER
FROM APPLYING TOO LITTLE
OR TOO MUCH LINE TENSION.
A WORKER THEN ADDS A BEARING
TO SUPPORT THE SPINDLE
IN THE SPOOL.
HE ALSO INSTALLS
WHAT'S CALLED A CLICK PLATE
THAT MAKES CLICKING SOUNDS
WHEN A FISH TAKES THE LINE.
HE ADDS A STAINLESS-STEEL
SPINDLE SLEEVE AND DRAG PLATE...
...AND A STURDY
SYNTHETIC WASHER.
HE THEN ADDS THE SPINDLE
AND PINION GEARS TO THE SPOOL.
THE SPOOL IS NOW READY
TO GO INTO THE FRAME.
USING A ROTATING CLAMP
TO STEADY THE REEL,
ANOTHER WORKER INSTALLS
A STAINLESS-STEEL FIXTURE THAT
ATTACHES THE REEL TO THE ROD...
AND INSTALLS THE LEFT-SIDE PLATE
WITH SIX SCREWS.
THIS METAL SPRING AND PLUNGER
ENABLE THE ANGLER TO
CHANGE SPEEDS FROM HIGH TO LOW
WITH JUST THE PUSH OF A BUTTON.
A METAL CLIP
LOCKS THE MECHANISM IN PLACE.
A LITTLE GREASE TO THE GEARING,
THEN A PLASTIC COVER,
AND THE SPOOL
IS FULLY ASSEMBLED.
HE INSERTS IT IN THE FRAME
AND INSTALLS A HARNESS LUG,
USED TO ATTACH THE REEL
TO WHAT'S CALLED
A FIGHTING HARNESS,
WORN TO PREVENT A FISH
FROM YANKING THE ROD
OUT OF YOUR HANDS.
NOW THE WORKER
MOUNTS THE RIGHT-SIDE PLATE.
HE ADDS A LEVER AND A KNOB
TO ADJUST THE DRAG SETTINGS.
YOU TURN THE KNOB CLOCKWISE
FOR MORE TENSION,
COUNTERCLOCKWISE FOR LESS.
NEXT, HE INSTALLS THE
STAINLESS-STEEL-AND-PLASTIC KNOB
YOU USE TO REEL IN THE LINE.
AND FINALLY,
THE BUTTON FOR SWITCHING SPEEDS.
HE TESTS THE DRAG LEVER
AND GEARS
TO CHECK
IF THEY ENGAGE PROPERLY.
HE PUTS IT
INTO HIGH SPEED TO SEE
IF THE SAFETY CATCH PREVENTS
WHAT'S CALLED FREE SPOOLING,
A GLITCH THAT COULD SEND
A 1/2 MILE OF LINE
FLYING WILDLY OUT OF CONTROL
AND LEAVE YOU "REELING."
Narrator:
FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS,
DOLLHOUSES
HAVE BEEN HOT PROPERTY.
AT FIRST,
THEY WERE BUILT TO ENTERTAIN
THE CHILDREN OF THE WEALTHY,
BUT EVENTUALLY,
MASS PRODUCTION MADE THESE
MINI MANSIONS WIDELY AVAILABLE.
AND TODAY, THEY CONTINUE TO BE
GREAT PLACES FOR CHILDHOOD
FANTASIES TO RESIDE.
ANY HOME-BUILDING PROJECT
IS ALL ABOUT THE DETAILS,
BUT THE DETAILS DON'T GET
MUCH SMALLER THAN THIS.
THESE DOLLHOUSES ARE MINIATURE
VERSIONS OF ACTUAL HOMES,
MADE TO SCALE.
THEY TAKE A BIG SHEET OF PLYWOOD
AND SLICE IT
INTO SMALLER PIECES.
FOR A CONSISTENTLY ACCURATE JOB,
THEY USE A SAW GUIDE,
WHICH POSITIONS THE WOOD
FOR A SPECIFIC CUT.
THERE'S A DIFFERENT GUIDE
FOR EACH DOLLHOUSE PART.
USING A HOT IRON,
THEY BRAND THE COMPANY NAME
ONTO A FOUNDATION PART.
THIS DOLLHOUSE
WILL BE SOLD AS A KIT,
AND HERE, THEY DEMONSTRATE
HOW TO PUT IT TOGETHER.
BACK ON THE PRODUCTION LINE,
THEY'RE MILLING THE SIDING.
THIS MACHINE CUTS FURROWS
IN WOOD PANELS
TO MIMIC A CLAPBOARD FINISH.
NEXT, USING A ROUTER,
THEY CUT WINDOW AND DOOR HOLES.
AND NOW THE WALLS GO UP.
BECAUSE THIS IS A KIT, EACH
PIECE HAS TO BE A PERFECT FIT,
BECAUSE, UNLIKE
A REAL CONSTRUCTION PROJECT,
THEY CAN'T DO RECUTS ON-SITE.
THEY INSTALL THE SECOND FLOOR
AND TAPE IT
WITH ORDINARY MASKING TAPE
WHILE THE GLUE DRIES.
AND NOW FOR THE SECOND STORY.
IT CAN TAKE UP TO 100 HOURS
TO PAINT AND ASSEMBLE ALL
THE PARTS IN A DOLLHOUSE KIT,
DEPENDING ON
HOW ELABORATE THE DESIGN IS.
NEXT, THEY RAISE THE ROOF.
THIS VICTORIAN DESIGN
HAS A TWO-PART ROOF
WITH A TOWER IN THE MIDDLE.
THEY ADD WEIGHT TO APPLY
PRESSURE WHILE THE GLUE DRIES.
THIS MACHINE'S PROTECTIVE COVER
HAS BEEN TEMPORARILY REMOVED
TO SHOW ITS INNER WORKINGS.
THEY CAREFULLY FEED IN
A PIECE OF PINE.
IT CUTS THE BOARD
INTO LITTLE SHINGLES,
WHICH FALL INTO A BIN BELOW.
ONCE THE SHINGLES ARE STAINED,
THEY HOT-GLUE THEM TO THE ROOF,
FOLLOWING A GRID
THAT WAS PENCILED ON IN ADVANCE.
THEY WRAP THE ROOF WITH TAPE
TO STABILIZE IT
WHILE THE GLUE DRIES.
BACK IN THE FACTORY,
FOUR CUTTING WHEELS
SHAPE A PIECE OF PINE
INTO MOLDINGS THAT WILL BE USED
FOR TRIM ON VARIOUS MODELS.
THE DOOR NOW GOES ON.
IT'S BEEN TRIMMED
WITH SOME OF THE MOLDING
WE JUST SAW BEING MADE.
THE WINDOWS ALSO HAVE
SOME MOLDING DETAILS.
ALL THIS TRIM HAS BEEN MADE
ON THE SAME MACHINE,
USING DIFFERENT CUTTERS
FOR THE DIFFERENT PROFILES.
THIS RAILING IS A NICE TOUCH
AND WILL ALSO PROVIDE SUPPORT
FOR THE STRUCTURE.
ALL THAT'S LEFT
IS THE INTERIOR DECORATING.
SOME PEOPLE SPEND
A SMALL FORTUNE ON THIS STUFF --
TINY TOILETS...
CHAIRS...
EVEN FULL KITCHENS IN MINIATURE.
AND IN THIS MODEL
OF PRESIDENT LINCOLN'S HOME,
THE DETAILS
ARE HISTORICALLY ACCURATE.
NOW THEY CAREFULLY PACK UP
ALL THE PIECES.
SOON, THEY'LL MAKE
SOME CHILD'S DREAM
OF HOME OWNERSHIP COME TRUE,
BUT FIRST, SOMEBODY HAD BETTER
READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.
Narrator:
WHIPPING UP A DESSERT
USED TO TAKE
A FAIR BIT OF MUSCLE POWER,
UNTIL THEY INVENTED
A MIXER WITH A MOTOR
IN THE EARLY PART
OF THE 20th CENTURY.
THE FIRST ONES WERE
VERY INDUSTRIAL-LOOKING
AND NOT MUCH LIKE
TODAY'S SLEEK MODELS.
BUT WITH THIS INVENTION,
THE JOB OF PASTRY-MAKING
HAS BECOME A PIECE OF CAKE.
TODAY'S MIXERS
CAN WHISK YOU INTO
A WORLD OF THE CULINARY ARTS.
TO MAKE ONE,
A MACHINE STRAIGHTENS WIRE
BETWEEN A ROW OF WHEELS.
COMPUTER-PROGRAMMED
FORMING TOOLS
MAKE A TOTAL OF A DOZEN BENDS
TO PRODUCE ARC SHAPES,
WHICH WILL BE USED TO BUILD
A WHIP ATTACHMENT FOR THE MIXER.
TO ASSEMBLE A WHIP,
A TECHNICIAN FITS THE WIRE ARCS
INTO AN ALUMINUM HUB,
STARTING WITH THE LARGEST ONE
AND GRADUATING
DOWN TO THE SMALLEST.
UNDERNEATH, A PUNCH MECHANISM
DIMPLES THE HUB
TO FASTEN EACH WIRE TO IT.
HERE, THEY DROP
SOME DOUGH HOOKS AND BEATERS
INTO A VIBRATING BOWL
FULL OF METAL NUGGETS.
THE FRICTION POLISHES
THESE ZINC MIXER ATTACHMENTS
AND GETS RID OF THE SHARP EDGES.
NEXT,
THEY THREAD A BAND OF ALUMINUM
INTO A MACHINE THAT BENDS
IT TO THE CONTOUR OF THE MIXER.
IT'S A PIECE OF TRIM
THAT CARRIES THE BRAND NAME.
A BOWL FEEDER NOW FUNNELS
HOLLOW IRON WEIGHTS
TOWARD A SYSTEM THAT THREADS
WIRE THROUGH EACH OF THEM.
MECHANICAL ARMS
PINCH AND BEND THE WIRE,
MAKING LITTLE HOOKS ON THE ENDS.
TWO OF THESE WEIGHTS WILL BE
USED IN EACH SPEED GOVERNOR,
A DEVICE THAT KEEPS
THE MIXER'S SPEED CONSTANT,
DESPITE CHANGES IN THE LOAD.
TO ASSEMBLE THE SPEED GOVERNOR,
THEY ARRANGE A BRASS HUB,
SPRING, AND A WASHER
IN A HOLDING DEVICE...
AND THEN
PRESS-FIT THEM TOGETHER.
THEY ATTACH THE TWO WEIGHTS
TO THE SPRING ASSEMBLY,
USING THE PROTRUDING WIRES.
THE SPEED-GOVERNOR SYSTEM
IS NOW COMPLETE.
HERE'S HOW
THE GOVERNOR WEIGHTS FLY OUT
TO REGULATE THE MIXER'S SPEED.
AND NOW IT'S TIME
TO PREPARE THE MOTOR SHAFT.
THEY LOWER THIS SPINNING STEEL
CYLINDER TO A REVOLVING CUTTER.
LUBRICANT KEEPS THE CUTTER COOL
AS IT CARVES SPIRALS
INTO THE END OF THE SHAFT.
THE SPIRALING GROOVES
WILL ALLOW THE SHAFT
TO DRIVE
THE MIXER'S INTERNAL GEARS.
THEY INSTALL THE SHAFT,
WITH MOTOR WINDINGS
AND BEARINGS ATTACHED,
INTO THE MIXER BODY.
NEXT,
THEY RIVET ELECTRICAL CONTACTS
TO PLASTIC CONTROL BOARDS.
THESE CONTACTS WILL CONVEY
ELECTRICITY TO DRIVE THE MOTOR.
THEY DELIVER AN ELECTRICAL
CHARGE TO THE CONTACTS
TO MAKE SURE THEY'RE WORKING.
THEN THEY
ATTACH SCREWS, NUTS, AND SPRINGS
TO COMPLETE
THE CONTROL-BOARD ASSEMBLY.
THE CONTROL BOARD WILL WORK
IN CONCERT
WITH THE GOVERNOR WEIGHTS
TO CONTROL THE MIXER'S SPEED.
FOR THESE MIXERS
TO REALLY SHINE,
THEY'LL NEED A GOOD PAINT JOB.
TO PREPARE THE MIXER PARTS
FOR PAINTING,
THEY POLISH THEM
ON AN ABRASIVE BELT.
THEN IT'S INTO THE PAINT BOOTH.
THIS IS
A HIGHLY CHARGED PROCESS.
THE PAINT HAS
A POSITIVE ELECTRICAL CHARGE
AND IS ATTRACTED
TO THE ZINC MIXER PARTS,
WHICH ARE NEGATIVELY CHARGED.
NOW ALL THE PARTS
ARE IN THE MIX.
COMING UP NEXT...
WE'LL SHOW YOU
HOW THEY ALL COME TOGETHER.
Narrator:
BEHIND MANY A SUCCESSFUL COOK
IS A WELL-OILED MACHINE
THAT'S MADE FOR SPEED,
AND THAT'S THE ELECTRIC MIXER.
IT PRODUCES THE BEST RESULTS
WHEN THE BLADES TURN RAPIDLY.
IF THEY TURN TOO SLOWLY, THEY
WON'T MIX THE BATTER THOROUGHLY,
AND THAT MEANS
YOUR PASTRY COULD BE A FLOP.
TO ASSEMBLE
THIS TILT-HEAD MIXER,
THEY INSTALL
A GEAR TO DRIVE THE ATTACHMENTS.
NEXT COMES THE STATOR,
WHICH CREATES THE ELECTRICAL
FIELD FOR THE MOTOR.
A DAB OF OIL,
AND THEN THEY MOUNT
THE SHAFT AND MOTOR WINDINGS
INSIDE THE UNIT.
THEY SLIDE TWO MOTOR BRUSHES
INTO PREDRILLED HOLES.
THE MOTOR BRUSH
WILL SUPPLY ELECTRICITY
TO THE INTERNAL COMPONENTS.
THIS BEARING BRACKET
HOLDS THE MOTOR IN PLACE.
THEY LUBRICATE THE FRONT OF IT
BEFORE INSTALLING
THE ELECTRICAL CONTROL BOARD.
THEY WRAP A TRIM BAND
WITH THE BRAND NAME ON IT
AROUND THE OUTSIDE.
NEXT, THEY POUR GOBS OF GREASE
INTO THE SECTION OF THE MIXER
THAT WILL HOLD THE GEARS.
THE GEAR SECTION WILL BE SEALED
SO THE GREASE CAN'T LEAK OUT.
THEY ATTACH
THE OTHER HALF OF THE UNIT
THAT HAS SOME GEARS
ALREADY FIXED TO IT.
THEY INSERT A DRIVE PIN
IN THE SHAFT THAT MOVES
THE WHISK AND OTHER ATTACHMENTS
AND SCREW
THE TWO HALVES TOGETHER.
THEY APPLY MORE GREASE
TO THIS SECTION
AND THEN INSTALL
THE PLANETARY GEAR.
THIS GEAR WILL ROTATE THE MIXER
ATTACHMENTS AROUND THE BOWL.
WITH A MALLET,
THE WORKER HAMMERS A PIN
TO ATTACH THE PLANETARY GEAR.
HE TAPS A DECORATIVE RING
ONTO THE OUTSIDE.
HE MOUNTS THE MOTOR UNIT
TO THE BASE...
AND MARKS AN IDENTIFICATION
NUMBER ONTO THE BOTTOM.
NOW THEY TAKE
THE TILT-HEAD MIXER FOR A SPIN.
AND THE NEXT STEP
IS TO ADJUST THE SPEED.
THE TECHNICIAN
INSTALLS A SPEED-SETTING TOOL
IN THE HUB OF THE MIXER.
WHILE THE GEARS TURN, HE CHECKS
THE READOUT AND TUNES IT UP.
EACH MIXER HAS TO BE ABLE
TO MAKE A DIZZYING
200 ROTATIONS PER MINUTE.
THEY CAP THE HUB.
THE FINAL STEP
IS TESTING THE BEATER.
THEY CHECK THAT IT'S CORRECTLY
POSITIONED ABOVE THE BOWL.
ONE LAST POLISH, AND IT'S READY.
OVER AT ANOTHER STATION,
THEY'RE MAKING
A MORE COMMERCIAL TYPE OF MIXER,
ONE WITH A BOWL
THAT LIFTS TO THE BEATER
INSTEAD OF A TILT-HEAD
THAT LOWERS TO THE BOWL.
THEY SCREW A BASE
TO A BOWL-SUPPORT PIECE.
THEN THEY ATTACH THE LOWER
HOUSING FOR THE BEATER MOTOR.
AS THE MIXER MOVES
ON A CONVEYOR,
THEY INSTALL
THE MOTOR AND GEARS.
THEY ADD
A GENEROUS SQUIRT OF GREASE
TO LUBRICATE THE TRANSMISSION
AND THEN ENCASE THE TOP
OF THE MOTOR WITH MORE HOUSING.
CONTINUING DOWN THE LINE,
THEY INSTALL
THE ELECTRICAL SPEED CONTROLS,
TOPPING IT OFF
WITH MORE HOUSING.
THEY WRAP THE SIGNATURE
PIECE OF TRIM AROUND IT.
USING A PROBE, THEY CHECK
THE WATTAGE AND SPEED.
IT PASSES INSPECTION,
AND IT'S READY FOR PACKING.
IT'S TAKEN
APPROXIMATELY 10 MINUTES
TO ASSEMBLE
THIS BOWL-LIFT MIXER,
BUT IT'S BEEN MADE
TO LAST A LIFETIME.
AND WITH SUCH A RANGE
OF ATTACHMENTS FOR THESE MIXERS,
YOU CAN REALLY GO "STIR" CRAZY.
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY
DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS, INC.
IF YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS
ABOUT THE SHOW,
OR IF YOU'D LIKE TO SUGGEST
TOPICS FOR FUTURE SHOWS,
DROP US A LINE AT...
TODAY ON "HOW IT'S MADE"...
FISHING REELS...
...MINIATURE HOUSES...
...AND KITCHEN MIXERS.
THE CHINESE IN THE 12th CENTURY
WERE FIRST TO WIND EXCESS
FISHING LINE ON THEIR RODS
BEFORE UNREELING IT
BACK INTO THE WATER.
TODAY'S REELS HAVE GEARS
TO QUICKLY DEPLOY
AND RETRIEVE THE LINE.
THEY'RE MADE WITH LIGHTWEIGHT,
HIGH-STRENGTH MATERIALS
SO YOU CAN CATCH BIGGER,
STRONGER FISH --
OR AT LEAST TRY TO.
ANTIQUE REELS ARE HEAVY
AND HAVE JUST ONE SPEED.
MODERN REELS HAVE
TWO SPEEDS AND FEWER PARTS.
TO MAKE A REEL'S FRAME,
A COMPUTER-GUIDED ROUTER
CUTS FOUR OPENINGS
IN A CYLINDER MADE OF ALUMINUM.
THEY LET THE ANGLER --
THE PERSON FISHING --
ACCESS THE SPOOL
INSIDE THE FRAME
TO UNDO ANY KNOTS IN THE LINE.
ANOTHER CUTTING MACHINE SHAPES
A STAINLESS-STEEL BLANK
INTO A SPINDLE,
THE INNER PART OF THE REEL
AROUND WHICH
THE FISHING LINE WINDS.
IT ALSO CARVES
TWO PINION GEARS INTO THE PIECE.
THE HIGH GEAR
RETRIEVES LINE FASTER.
THE LOW GEAR GIVES MORE POWER
TO FIGHT BIG FISH.
THE MACHINE'S CUTTERS
ARE MADE OF CARBIDE,
AN EXTREMELY DURABLE MATERIAL.
EVEN SO,
WORKERS CHANGE THEM WEEKLY.
ANOTHER CUTTER CARVES
THE REEL'S MAIN GEARS --
A HIGH-SPEED AND A LOW-SPEED.
THESE MAIN GEARS
INTERACT WITH THE PINION GEARS
TO MAKE THE SPOOL REVOLVE.
THIS LETS THE ANGLER
WIND LINE BACK ONTO THE REEL.
THIS CUTTER
DRILLS SMALL INDENTATIONS,
PART OF THE REEL'S DRAG SYSTEM,
WHICH LETS THE ANGLER
ADJUST LINE TENSION
TO FIGHT LARGE FISH.
THE NEXT CUTTER
ENGRAVES THE COMPANY NAME
INTO ONE OF THE REEL'S
TWO SIDE PLATES.
YET ANOTHER CUTTER ENGRAVES
THE DRAG SETTINGS --
"1" THROUGH "4"
AND THEN "STRIKE."
STRIKE LETS THE ANGLER
FIGHT FISH
WEIGHING UP TO 2,000 POUNDS.
NEXT,
A PROCESS CALLED ANODIZING.
THE SIDE PLATES ARE DIPPED
IN A SERIES OF CHEMICAL BATHS
THAT BIND A GOLD-COLORED DYE
TO THEIR SURFACE.
NOW TIME
TO ASSEMBLE THE FISHING REEL.
FIRST, THEY APPLY
WATERPROOF GREASE AND LUBRICANT
TO TWO SAFETY CATCHES
THAT PREVENT AN ANGLER
FROM APPLYING TOO LITTLE
OR TOO MUCH LINE TENSION.
A WORKER THEN ADDS A BEARING
TO SUPPORT THE SPINDLE
IN THE SPOOL.
HE ALSO INSTALLS
WHAT'S CALLED A CLICK PLATE
THAT MAKES CLICKING SOUNDS
WHEN A FISH TAKES THE LINE.
HE ADDS A STAINLESS-STEEL
SPINDLE SLEEVE AND DRAG PLATE...
...AND A STURDY
SYNTHETIC WASHER.
HE THEN ADDS THE SPINDLE
AND PINION GEARS TO THE SPOOL.
THE SPOOL IS NOW READY
TO GO INTO THE FRAME.
USING A ROTATING CLAMP
TO STEADY THE REEL,
ANOTHER WORKER INSTALLS
A STAINLESS-STEEL FIXTURE THAT
ATTACHES THE REEL TO THE ROD...
AND INSTALLS THE LEFT-SIDE PLATE
WITH SIX SCREWS.
THIS METAL SPRING AND PLUNGER
ENABLE THE ANGLER TO
CHANGE SPEEDS FROM HIGH TO LOW
WITH JUST THE PUSH OF A BUTTON.
A METAL CLIP
LOCKS THE MECHANISM IN PLACE.
A LITTLE GREASE TO THE GEARING,
THEN A PLASTIC COVER,
AND THE SPOOL
IS FULLY ASSEMBLED.
HE INSERTS IT IN THE FRAME
AND INSTALLS A HARNESS LUG,
USED TO ATTACH THE REEL
TO WHAT'S CALLED
A FIGHTING HARNESS,
WORN TO PREVENT A FISH
FROM YANKING THE ROD
OUT OF YOUR HANDS.
NOW THE WORKER
MOUNTS THE RIGHT-SIDE PLATE.
HE ADDS A LEVER AND A KNOB
TO ADJUST THE DRAG SETTINGS.
YOU TURN THE KNOB CLOCKWISE
FOR MORE TENSION,
COUNTERCLOCKWISE FOR LESS.
NEXT, HE INSTALLS THE
STAINLESS-STEEL-AND-PLASTIC KNOB
YOU USE TO REEL IN THE LINE.
AND FINALLY,
THE BUTTON FOR SWITCHING SPEEDS.
HE TESTS THE DRAG LEVER
AND GEARS
TO CHECK
IF THEY ENGAGE PROPERLY.
HE PUTS IT
INTO HIGH SPEED TO SEE
IF THE SAFETY CATCH PREVENTS
WHAT'S CALLED FREE SPOOLING,
A GLITCH THAT COULD SEND
A 1/2 MILE OF LINE
FLYING WILDLY OUT OF CONTROL
AND LEAVE YOU "REELING."
Narrator:
FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS,
DOLLHOUSES
HAVE BEEN HOT PROPERTY.
AT FIRST,
THEY WERE BUILT TO ENTERTAIN
THE CHILDREN OF THE WEALTHY,
BUT EVENTUALLY,
MASS PRODUCTION MADE THESE
MINI MANSIONS WIDELY AVAILABLE.
AND TODAY, THEY CONTINUE TO BE
GREAT PLACES FOR CHILDHOOD
FANTASIES TO RESIDE.
ANY HOME-BUILDING PROJECT
IS ALL ABOUT THE DETAILS,
BUT THE DETAILS DON'T GET
MUCH SMALLER THAN THIS.
THESE DOLLHOUSES ARE MINIATURE
VERSIONS OF ACTUAL HOMES,
MADE TO SCALE.
THEY TAKE A BIG SHEET OF PLYWOOD
AND SLICE IT
INTO SMALLER PIECES.
FOR A CONSISTENTLY ACCURATE JOB,
THEY USE A SAW GUIDE,
WHICH POSITIONS THE WOOD
FOR A SPECIFIC CUT.
THERE'S A DIFFERENT GUIDE
FOR EACH DOLLHOUSE PART.
USING A HOT IRON,
THEY BRAND THE COMPANY NAME
ONTO A FOUNDATION PART.
THIS DOLLHOUSE
WILL BE SOLD AS A KIT,
AND HERE, THEY DEMONSTRATE
HOW TO PUT IT TOGETHER.
BACK ON THE PRODUCTION LINE,
THEY'RE MILLING THE SIDING.
THIS MACHINE CUTS FURROWS
IN WOOD PANELS
TO MIMIC A CLAPBOARD FINISH.
NEXT, USING A ROUTER,
THEY CUT WINDOW AND DOOR HOLES.
AND NOW THE WALLS GO UP.
BECAUSE THIS IS A KIT, EACH
PIECE HAS TO BE A PERFECT FIT,
BECAUSE, UNLIKE
A REAL CONSTRUCTION PROJECT,
THEY CAN'T DO RECUTS ON-SITE.
THEY INSTALL THE SECOND FLOOR
AND TAPE IT
WITH ORDINARY MASKING TAPE
WHILE THE GLUE DRIES.
AND NOW FOR THE SECOND STORY.
IT CAN TAKE UP TO 100 HOURS
TO PAINT AND ASSEMBLE ALL
THE PARTS IN A DOLLHOUSE KIT,
DEPENDING ON
HOW ELABORATE THE DESIGN IS.
NEXT, THEY RAISE THE ROOF.
THIS VICTORIAN DESIGN
HAS A TWO-PART ROOF
WITH A TOWER IN THE MIDDLE.
THEY ADD WEIGHT TO APPLY
PRESSURE WHILE THE GLUE DRIES.
THIS MACHINE'S PROTECTIVE COVER
HAS BEEN TEMPORARILY REMOVED
TO SHOW ITS INNER WORKINGS.
THEY CAREFULLY FEED IN
A PIECE OF PINE.
IT CUTS THE BOARD
INTO LITTLE SHINGLES,
WHICH FALL INTO A BIN BELOW.
ONCE THE SHINGLES ARE STAINED,
THEY HOT-GLUE THEM TO THE ROOF,
FOLLOWING A GRID
THAT WAS PENCILED ON IN ADVANCE.
THEY WRAP THE ROOF WITH TAPE
TO STABILIZE IT
WHILE THE GLUE DRIES.
BACK IN THE FACTORY,
FOUR CUTTING WHEELS
SHAPE A PIECE OF PINE
INTO MOLDINGS THAT WILL BE USED
FOR TRIM ON VARIOUS MODELS.
THE DOOR NOW GOES ON.
IT'S BEEN TRIMMED
WITH SOME OF THE MOLDING
WE JUST SAW BEING MADE.
THE WINDOWS ALSO HAVE
SOME MOLDING DETAILS.
ALL THIS TRIM HAS BEEN MADE
ON THE SAME MACHINE,
USING DIFFERENT CUTTERS
FOR THE DIFFERENT PROFILES.
THIS RAILING IS A NICE TOUCH
AND WILL ALSO PROVIDE SUPPORT
FOR THE STRUCTURE.
ALL THAT'S LEFT
IS THE INTERIOR DECORATING.
SOME PEOPLE SPEND
A SMALL FORTUNE ON THIS STUFF --
TINY TOILETS...
CHAIRS...
EVEN FULL KITCHENS IN MINIATURE.
AND IN THIS MODEL
OF PRESIDENT LINCOLN'S HOME,
THE DETAILS
ARE HISTORICALLY ACCURATE.
NOW THEY CAREFULLY PACK UP
ALL THE PIECES.
SOON, THEY'LL MAKE
SOME CHILD'S DREAM
OF HOME OWNERSHIP COME TRUE,
BUT FIRST, SOMEBODY HAD BETTER
READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.
Narrator:
WHIPPING UP A DESSERT
USED TO TAKE
A FAIR BIT OF MUSCLE POWER,
UNTIL THEY INVENTED
A MIXER WITH A MOTOR
IN THE EARLY PART
OF THE 20th CENTURY.
THE FIRST ONES WERE
VERY INDUSTRIAL-LOOKING
AND NOT MUCH LIKE
TODAY'S SLEEK MODELS.
BUT WITH THIS INVENTION,
THE JOB OF PASTRY-MAKING
HAS BECOME A PIECE OF CAKE.
TODAY'S MIXERS
CAN WHISK YOU INTO
A WORLD OF THE CULINARY ARTS.
TO MAKE ONE,
A MACHINE STRAIGHTENS WIRE
BETWEEN A ROW OF WHEELS.
COMPUTER-PROGRAMMED
FORMING TOOLS
MAKE A TOTAL OF A DOZEN BENDS
TO PRODUCE ARC SHAPES,
WHICH WILL BE USED TO BUILD
A WHIP ATTACHMENT FOR THE MIXER.
TO ASSEMBLE A WHIP,
A TECHNICIAN FITS THE WIRE ARCS
INTO AN ALUMINUM HUB,
STARTING WITH THE LARGEST ONE
AND GRADUATING
DOWN TO THE SMALLEST.
UNDERNEATH, A PUNCH MECHANISM
DIMPLES THE HUB
TO FASTEN EACH WIRE TO IT.
HERE, THEY DROP
SOME DOUGH HOOKS AND BEATERS
INTO A VIBRATING BOWL
FULL OF METAL NUGGETS.
THE FRICTION POLISHES
THESE ZINC MIXER ATTACHMENTS
AND GETS RID OF THE SHARP EDGES.
NEXT,
THEY THREAD A BAND OF ALUMINUM
INTO A MACHINE THAT BENDS
IT TO THE CONTOUR OF THE MIXER.
IT'S A PIECE OF TRIM
THAT CARRIES THE BRAND NAME.
A BOWL FEEDER NOW FUNNELS
HOLLOW IRON WEIGHTS
TOWARD A SYSTEM THAT THREADS
WIRE THROUGH EACH OF THEM.
MECHANICAL ARMS
PINCH AND BEND THE WIRE,
MAKING LITTLE HOOKS ON THE ENDS.
TWO OF THESE WEIGHTS WILL BE
USED IN EACH SPEED GOVERNOR,
A DEVICE THAT KEEPS
THE MIXER'S SPEED CONSTANT,
DESPITE CHANGES IN THE LOAD.
TO ASSEMBLE THE SPEED GOVERNOR,
THEY ARRANGE A BRASS HUB,
SPRING, AND A WASHER
IN A HOLDING DEVICE...
AND THEN
PRESS-FIT THEM TOGETHER.
THEY ATTACH THE TWO WEIGHTS
TO THE SPRING ASSEMBLY,
USING THE PROTRUDING WIRES.
THE SPEED-GOVERNOR SYSTEM
IS NOW COMPLETE.
HERE'S HOW
THE GOVERNOR WEIGHTS FLY OUT
TO REGULATE THE MIXER'S SPEED.
AND NOW IT'S TIME
TO PREPARE THE MOTOR SHAFT.
THEY LOWER THIS SPINNING STEEL
CYLINDER TO A REVOLVING CUTTER.
LUBRICANT KEEPS THE CUTTER COOL
AS IT CARVES SPIRALS
INTO THE END OF THE SHAFT.
THE SPIRALING GROOVES
WILL ALLOW THE SHAFT
TO DRIVE
THE MIXER'S INTERNAL GEARS.
THEY INSTALL THE SHAFT,
WITH MOTOR WINDINGS
AND BEARINGS ATTACHED,
INTO THE MIXER BODY.
NEXT,
THEY RIVET ELECTRICAL CONTACTS
TO PLASTIC CONTROL BOARDS.
THESE CONTACTS WILL CONVEY
ELECTRICITY TO DRIVE THE MOTOR.
THEY DELIVER AN ELECTRICAL
CHARGE TO THE CONTACTS
TO MAKE SURE THEY'RE WORKING.
THEN THEY
ATTACH SCREWS, NUTS, AND SPRINGS
TO COMPLETE
THE CONTROL-BOARD ASSEMBLY.
THE CONTROL BOARD WILL WORK
IN CONCERT
WITH THE GOVERNOR WEIGHTS
TO CONTROL THE MIXER'S SPEED.
FOR THESE MIXERS
TO REALLY SHINE,
THEY'LL NEED A GOOD PAINT JOB.
TO PREPARE THE MIXER PARTS
FOR PAINTING,
THEY POLISH THEM
ON AN ABRASIVE BELT.
THEN IT'S INTO THE PAINT BOOTH.
THIS IS
A HIGHLY CHARGED PROCESS.
THE PAINT HAS
A POSITIVE ELECTRICAL CHARGE
AND IS ATTRACTED
TO THE ZINC MIXER PARTS,
WHICH ARE NEGATIVELY CHARGED.
NOW ALL THE PARTS
ARE IN THE MIX.
COMING UP NEXT...
WE'LL SHOW YOU
HOW THEY ALL COME TOGETHER.
Narrator:
BEHIND MANY A SUCCESSFUL COOK
IS A WELL-OILED MACHINE
THAT'S MADE FOR SPEED,
AND THAT'S THE ELECTRIC MIXER.
IT PRODUCES THE BEST RESULTS
WHEN THE BLADES TURN RAPIDLY.
IF THEY TURN TOO SLOWLY, THEY
WON'T MIX THE BATTER THOROUGHLY,
AND THAT MEANS
YOUR PASTRY COULD BE A FLOP.
TO ASSEMBLE
THIS TILT-HEAD MIXER,
THEY INSTALL
A GEAR TO DRIVE THE ATTACHMENTS.
NEXT COMES THE STATOR,
WHICH CREATES THE ELECTRICAL
FIELD FOR THE MOTOR.
A DAB OF OIL,
AND THEN THEY MOUNT
THE SHAFT AND MOTOR WINDINGS
INSIDE THE UNIT.
THEY SLIDE TWO MOTOR BRUSHES
INTO PREDRILLED HOLES.
THE MOTOR BRUSH
WILL SUPPLY ELECTRICITY
TO THE INTERNAL COMPONENTS.
THIS BEARING BRACKET
HOLDS THE MOTOR IN PLACE.
THEY LUBRICATE THE FRONT OF IT
BEFORE INSTALLING
THE ELECTRICAL CONTROL BOARD.
THEY WRAP A TRIM BAND
WITH THE BRAND NAME ON IT
AROUND THE OUTSIDE.
NEXT, THEY POUR GOBS OF GREASE
INTO THE SECTION OF THE MIXER
THAT WILL HOLD THE GEARS.
THE GEAR SECTION WILL BE SEALED
SO THE GREASE CAN'T LEAK OUT.
THEY ATTACH
THE OTHER HALF OF THE UNIT
THAT HAS SOME GEARS
ALREADY FIXED TO IT.
THEY INSERT A DRIVE PIN
IN THE SHAFT THAT MOVES
THE WHISK AND OTHER ATTACHMENTS
AND SCREW
THE TWO HALVES TOGETHER.
THEY APPLY MORE GREASE
TO THIS SECTION
AND THEN INSTALL
THE PLANETARY GEAR.
THIS GEAR WILL ROTATE THE MIXER
ATTACHMENTS AROUND THE BOWL.
WITH A MALLET,
THE WORKER HAMMERS A PIN
TO ATTACH THE PLANETARY GEAR.
HE TAPS A DECORATIVE RING
ONTO THE OUTSIDE.
HE MOUNTS THE MOTOR UNIT
TO THE BASE...
AND MARKS AN IDENTIFICATION
NUMBER ONTO THE BOTTOM.
NOW THEY TAKE
THE TILT-HEAD MIXER FOR A SPIN.
AND THE NEXT STEP
IS TO ADJUST THE SPEED.
THE TECHNICIAN
INSTALLS A SPEED-SETTING TOOL
IN THE HUB OF THE MIXER.
WHILE THE GEARS TURN, HE CHECKS
THE READOUT AND TUNES IT UP.
EACH MIXER HAS TO BE ABLE
TO MAKE A DIZZYING
200 ROTATIONS PER MINUTE.
THEY CAP THE HUB.
THE FINAL STEP
IS TESTING THE BEATER.
THEY CHECK THAT IT'S CORRECTLY
POSITIONED ABOVE THE BOWL.
ONE LAST POLISH, AND IT'S READY.
OVER AT ANOTHER STATION,
THEY'RE MAKING
A MORE COMMERCIAL TYPE OF MIXER,
ONE WITH A BOWL
THAT LIFTS TO THE BEATER
INSTEAD OF A TILT-HEAD
THAT LOWERS TO THE BOWL.
THEY SCREW A BASE
TO A BOWL-SUPPORT PIECE.
THEN THEY ATTACH THE LOWER
HOUSING FOR THE BEATER MOTOR.
AS THE MIXER MOVES
ON A CONVEYOR,
THEY INSTALL
THE MOTOR AND GEARS.
THEY ADD
A GENEROUS SQUIRT OF GREASE
TO LUBRICATE THE TRANSMISSION
AND THEN ENCASE THE TOP
OF THE MOTOR WITH MORE HOUSING.
CONTINUING DOWN THE LINE,
THEY INSTALL
THE ELECTRICAL SPEED CONTROLS,
TOPPING IT OFF
WITH MORE HOUSING.
THEY WRAP THE SIGNATURE
PIECE OF TRIM AROUND IT.
USING A PROBE, THEY CHECK
THE WATTAGE AND SPEED.
IT PASSES INSPECTION,
AND IT'S READY FOR PACKING.
IT'S TAKEN
APPROXIMATELY 10 MINUTES
TO ASSEMBLE
THIS BOWL-LIFT MIXER,
BUT IT'S BEEN MADE
TO LAST A LIFETIME.
AND WITH SUCH A RANGE
OF ATTACHMENTS FOR THESE MIXERS,
YOU CAN REALLY GO "STIR" CRAZY.
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY
DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS, INC.
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