Great British Railway Journeys (2010–…): Season 5, Episode 2 - Southport to Leyland - full transcript

In 1840, one man
transformed travel in Britain.

His name was George Bradshaw,

and his railway guides inspired
the Victorians to take to the tracks.

Stop by stop, he told them where to go,
what to see and where to stay.

Now, 170 years later,

I'm aboard for a series of rail
adventures across the United Kingdom

to see what of Bradshaw's Britain
remains.

With my Bradshaw's,
I'm continuing my journey

around the industrial heartland
of northern England,

travelling on the very tracks

that helped make the fortunes
of entrepreneurs,



and I hope to discover
that even in Victorian times,

some of them were men
and others were women.

On this leg of my journey,
I put a vintage truck to the test...

More than a century old
and still going strong.

Learn how the railways transformed
the Northwest's seaside...

Without any doubt, they were fundamental
to the future success of the resort.

“And I bake a 19th-century
worker's lunchtime staph.

You have to get a lot of air into it.

- It's already feeling lovely.
- You're quite good at this!

My journey began in Manchester,
headed west to soapy Merseyside.

It will now traverse Lancashire
to Preston and then Bradford

and will dip down
to steely South Yorkshire

and will end in Derbyshire, the resting
place of the father of the railway,

George Stephenson.



This Lancastrian leg begins
in sun-drenched Southport,

devours pies in Wigan, surges east
to subversive Westhoughton,

weaves towards Bolton

and drives north to finish at Leyland.

From Birkenhead, I've crossed the Mersey
and I'm now heading to Southport.

Bradshaw's tells me it's a favourite
and fashionable watering place.

"From its situation and salubrity,

it's been christened
the Montpellier of England."

Well, I've been to Montpelier
on a blistering-hot Mediterranean day

and I am assuming that the comparison is
more one of architecture than climate.

Lying on the coast,
almost 20 miles north of Liverpool,

nowhere better epitomises

the late-18th-century fashion
for bathing in sea water

than the once small fishing port,
which came to be known as Southport.

The future French Emperor,
Napoleon ill,

took an apartment here fora season,

and it's said that he used
the tree-lined Lord Street

as a template
for his subsequent redesign of Paris.

My guidebook certainly liked the place.

"Southport's buildings,"
says Bradshaw's,

"are architecturally elegant

and the broad and beautiful streets,
particularly Lord Street,

have made it universally admired."

In my mind, I can hear
the jangle of bridles

as the horses and carriages pass by

and the clink of china
as elegant ladies take their lea.

When the railways arrived in 1848,
Southport's popularity boomed

as first Liverpudlians
and later Mancunians arrived

looking for a refined break
from their industrial cities.

In 1860, Southport's elegant
promenade was graced with a pier

upon which I'm meeting
former director of tourism Phil King.

Hello, Phil.

Michael, welcome to sunny Southport.

Lovely to see you.
You made me walk a long way.

How long is this pier? It must be
one of the longest in Britain.

(Phil) 3,600-odd feet. Second longest
lo our friends' down in Southend.

(Michael) This pier was built for what?

For leisure and pleasure, and people
used to promenade up to be seen,

to talk, to bow their heads, to enjoy.

It used to cost you sixpence and if you
had a perambulator, one and six,

and then of course as time went on,
paddle steamers arrived at the pierhead,

which used to go to Blackpool, Llandudno
and other exotic places as well.

Tell me about the impact of the railways
on Southport.

Without any doubt, they were fundamental
to the future success of the resort.

People came off
literally in their thousands to swim

and use the bathing machines.

And then there was
the development of the funfairs.

They used to go for rides
on the carousel,

a wonderful selling point
for our resort.

The carousel is thought to date back
to the Crusades

and to have its origins
in a Turkish game.

By the 11th century, it had developed
into a fixed structure

with legless wooden horses.

It was revolutionised by an English
engineer called Frederick Savage,

who, during the late 19th century,

designed a machine whose horses
moved up and down as they galloped.

I'm meeting Herbert Silcock, who owns
the fine exemplar at Southport Pier.

- Herbert.
- Pleased to meet you, Michael.

It's a lovely carousel. ls it Victorian?

It is Victorian, built in 1900.

How far back does your family go
in the fairground business?

We go back to the late 1800s.

This is the earliest picture
we have of the family.

That's Great-Grandfather.
Four sons. One, two, three, four.

Now, this is the showman's caravan
that they lived in.

(Michael) In those days, they were
travelling from place to place?

(Herbert) Correct.

How did your family actually get going
in the business?

This man here, Great-Grandfather Edward,
he worked in a wire works in Warrington

and to supplement his income,
he opened a little stall,

a coconut shy, in a railway viaduct,

and as the workers came out,
he would offer them a game for a penny.

Eventually this took over

because he was earning more money
than in the wire works.

My mother and father came here
in 1959 and we've prospered since.

The elaborately carved animals
and ornate panels

provided more than decoration.

They also hid the mechanism,

which in Herbert's great-grandfather's
day, was powered by steam.

During the heyday
of the golden galloper,

more than 250 carousels were built

and they were the most popular ride
in the British fairground.

Nowadays people have computer games
and I don't know what.

Why are they still attracted
to carousels?

The carousel, in its heyday,
was actually a white-knuckle ride.

It was quite fast, for the time.

It fell out of favour in the '50s
and '60s as people wanted more speed,

but now it's as popular as ever, but
it's now a children's and family ride.

Well, it may well be, but I hope that
doesn't prevent me from having a go.

It certainly will not, Michael.
Follow me.

Former politician backs wrong horse
and is taken for a ride.

Feeling a little giddy,
I'm going back lo Southport Station.

Northern Rail is less ornate,

but its iron horse will carry me east
at a canter.

This train will take me lo Wigan.
Bradshaw's tells me,

"It's a great cotton town in Lancashire
near the head of the River Douglas.'

"It contains stone and coal
in great abundance."

Wigan has found fame for its industry,

in literature
and for the history of its food.

Coal was mined in and around Wigan
from the Middle Ages

and when the canals
and then the railway

linked it to its bigger manufacturing
neighbours, the town prospered.

But the great depression
of the 1930s hit Wigan hard

and the town, which has never since
matched its Victorian prosperity,

presently strikes a chord
because oi a book named after

its most famous landmark.

When you think of famous piers, you'd
think of Southend, Southport and Wigan.

I've never seen Wigan Pier, but given
that the town isn't on the sea,

but on
the Manchester-to-Liverpool canal,

I have a feeling that its pier can't be
as spectacular as Southend or Southport.

Ahoy. Can you give me directions
to Wigan Pier, please?

- The actual pier itself?
- (Michael) Yes, the pier.

This is it, really.

None the wiser, I'm hoping Wigan
archives manager, Alex Miller,

will know the pier's precise location.

- Erm, I'm in search of Wigan Pier.
- Right.

Can you direct me?

You're on it. You're standing
on the very Wigan Pier,

such as it exists at the moment.

- Is this some kind of joke?
- Well, actually, it is a bit of a joke.

It's an early 20th-century
music hall joke.

This is Wigan Pier.
It's essentially a coal tippler

that came to become
the Wigan Pier of music-hall jokes.

And it was carried on by the Formbys,

in particular George Formby Snr
and George Formby Jr.

♪ Now when we shunt
The back's in front

♪ And the front part's in the rear

♪ If we survive then we'll arrive
Alongside Wigan Pier

This construction here would been
the end point of a railway line

stretching up into the network
of railways that fed the coal industry.

The wagons would have come down
the railway line to the tippler,

where they would have been tipped
into the barges waiting beneath.

And the story goes that on a boat trip
down the canal to Southport,

a group of people on the canal
were lost in the fog.

They shouted out, "Where are we?
We have no idea where we are."

A local wag shouts out
from the banks of the canal,

"You're at Wigan Pier."
They were on their way to Southport

expecting to see something
a little bit grander.

- So, that's where it comes from.
- That's now all lost in lime, isn't it?

All of us just think of George Orwell
and Wigan Pier,

but he then was picking up
on an existing joke.

Absolutely. He was using it... It was
a snappy title apart from anything else.

The Road lo Wigan Pier,
it gave him a very fixed point

in the end to his journey
when he came to Wigan.

Born Eric Blair in 1903, George Orwell
attended Eton College on a scholarship

and became a leading left-wing author.

He is best known for his anti-Soviet
novel "Animal Farm"

and the dystopian
“Nineteen Eighty-Four“.

In “The Road to Wigan Pier",
he wrote graphically oi the poverty

suffered by the northern working class
during the 1930s great depression.

So, there had obviously
been a decline in Wigan

because Bradshaw's talks about the place

being absolutely replete
with stone and coal.

Yes, I mean it was. Wigan is very much
a town built on coal,

but in the years
after the Second World War,

Wigan has come to be known
as a centre for food manufacturing.

You've got many multinational firms
working in the area,

people like Heinz and Patak's,

and you've got one firm
that has Victorian origins

that manufactures pies in the area,
and that is Pooles Pies.

Heinz came to Wigan
in the late 1950s,

attracted by the ready availability
of crops,

grown on the fertile Lancashire plain.

Over a billion cans of food per year
were produced in their Wigan factory.

But a century earlier,
Margaret Poole started a business

that first put Wigan
on the British culinary map.

I'm meeting baker Pauline Atherton
at the Ponies Pie factory

in Pemberton,
southwest of the town centre.

- Pauline?
- Yes?

Hello, I'm Michael.

So, what happens in this kitchen?

This is where we do
all the product development.

All the new recipes are formulated here.

(Michael)
Have you been making pies for long?

- A long time; about 50 years.
- Really?

Were the Victorian recipes
much different from what you do today?

You got whatever was available:
pigeon, rabbits, oxtail, even blackbird.

Lots of things
that you wouldn't use today,

but now there's more concentration
on what is actually in it.

Pauline has offered to show me

how Margaret Poole might have baked
a beef pie back in 1847.

You have to get a lot of air into it,
so the pastry will be nice and light.

It's already feeling lovely.

You're quite good at this.

(Michael) That looks pretty good to me.

- You roll it. Some pressure.
- Quite vigorously.

A little thinner, a little thinner.

Lovely.

Then roll it over.

That's it.
We'll start with the filling now.

- Shall I put that in there?
- Spread it nice and evenly.

(Michael) Margaret really knew
how to make a pie.

- Pop it down over here.
- (Pauline) Bring it towards you.

- Make it pretty.
- With a few thumbprints?

(Pauline)
Yes, and it's to seal it as well.

And I have something
that looks like a pie.

(Pauline) Very nice.

(Michael)
How long shall we cook that for?

(Pauline) Roughly about 25 minutes,
200 degrees.

Nowadays, only prototype pies
are handmade.

As mine bakes, Pauline wants to show me
the 300,000-square-foot factory.

Here, 50 people
on five production lines

make an astonishing
100,000 pies and pastries per hour.

Even though Margaret Poole
had a factory,

she would have been amazed to see this.

She certainly would.

- What are the ingredients?
- This is meat and potato.

And then, a bit like making a pie
when you're doing ital home,

you spread the pastry on lop
and then cut off the surplus.

Yes, everything's all recycled
all the way up again.

(Michael) And here they are ready
logo in the freezer.

And then anyone
could cook those at home.

Yes.

The proof of the pudding
is in the eating

and I'm afraid that
the same applies to my pie.

- (Pauline) Am I Mother?
- Please.

Just about.

Oh. Now that looks pretty good,
but I want your opinion, Pauline.

I'm not going to touch it until you do.

- Superb.
- Hmm.

It is pretty good.

Well done, Margaret Poole.
May her memory be blessed.

With a full tummy,
I'm heading six miles east

toward today's final destination.

To end my day,
I'm heading to Westhoughton.

Bradshaw's tells me that in 1812,
a dreadful Luddite riot took place

at which a large quantity of machinery
was destroyed by the mob.

If I remember, the Luddites were men
driven to desperate violence

by the fear that mechanisation
would cost them their livelihoods.

In 1817., England was mired in the worst
trade depression for 50 years.

The invention of new machinery

threatened to consign home weaving
to the annals of history.

Those conditions gave rise
to machine breakers and rioters

dubbed the Luddites.

I'm hoping that local historian,
Pamela Clarke,

can tell me what happened
in Westhoughton.

- Hello, Pam.
- Hello, Michael.

According to my Bradshaw's,

the violence here in 1812
was pretty bad. What happened?

In 1804, a new factory was built

across the road and it was full of 170
power looms with the big steam engine.

Luddites from Bolton
decided to burn the factory

and destroy the equipment there.

So, is that exactly what happened?
They marched up here and did it?

On 24th April, the mill was set ablaze.

All the machinery was made of wood

and there was lots of cloth around,
so it was easy to get the fire going.

What were the consequences for the
people who had perpetrated this attack?

Four of them were charged
with breaking the machinery,

which was made a capital offence
in 1812.

And they were sentenced
to be hanged.

And were they?

They were, including a young lad

who was said to be anything
from 12 to 16 years old.

Tomorrow, I'm hoping to find out more
about one oi the machines

that led to this dreadful incident
in Westhoughton,

but now it's time
for some quiet refreshment.

- Morning.
- Alright?

- Nice sunny day.
- Aye, it is.

Continuing east,
my next destination is Bolton.

This is Bolton,
what Bradshaw's calls Bolton le Moors.

"Cotton, velvets and muslins were first
manufactured here about 1760-80

on a large scale by the new machinery
of Richard Arkwright,

who resided here when a barber

and Samuel Crompton
who lived at Hall I' th' Wood."

Much though I sympathise
with the desperate Luddites

who broke the machines,

I have real admiration for the inventors
who sought to perfect them.

In 1113, Bolton's population
numbered less than 5,500.

By 1901, it had soared to 168,000.

The biggest reason for that increase

was the town's
booming textile industry,

begun by a Bolton inventor
who was born in 1753.

I'm meeting curator Erin Beeston

at Samuel Crompton's house
in Hall I' th' Wood, north of Bolton.

- Erin, hello.
- Hello. Welcome to Hall I' th' Wood.

It's a beautiful house and rather grand.

Was Samuel Crompton quite a rich man?

Well, actually at the lime
Samuel Crompton lived here,

the hall was in
quite a bad state of repair.

Shortly after they moved
to some rooms upstairs in the hall,

his father actually died and his father
was only about 33 at the time,

so he was left with two sisters
and his mother

and he was very quickly taught
how to spin from an early age

to help the family produce the cotton
that they needed to weave with.

In the middle of the 18th century,

people were producing fabrics
in their homes?

Yes. Essentially,
it was a cottage industry.

To produce the yarn
required to make cloth,

Samuel and his family
used a single-thread spinning wheel.

Volunteer Jacqui Elvin's
demonstrating with raw wool.

To spin the yarn,
you need to work the pedal

and that's a rocking motion.

And with that, it turns the spindle
in a clockwise direction

you extend with the left-hand, and that
causes the twist to go down the yarn.

And that creates your thread.

Not too straightforward, I must say.

It's like one of these things where
you have to rub the top of your head

and stroke your nose at the same time.
And I'm only producing one thread.

(Jacqui) Exactly, and for weavers,
you needed an awful lot of thread.

And that, I have a feeling,
is where our Mr Crompton comes in.

(Jacqui) Yes,

Thank you, Jacqui.

A number of 18th-century inventions
transformed cloth production

from a cottage industry
into steam-powered mass production

in factories
during the Industrial Revolution.

Samuel Crompton's invention
was called the spinning mule

and, borrowing elements of James
Hargreaves's spinning jenny

and Sir Richard Arkwright's
water frame,

it revolutionised
the production of yam.

How did Crompton
come to be so inventive?

Well, he was quite well educated.

He actually went lo night school
until he was 16.

He did things like mathematics.
He did algebra and arithmetic.

He also was very musically talented
and he used the money that he made

from playing the violin
in one of the theatres locally

to get the pans together
ready to make his invention.

And what is the significance
oi this room?

Well, this came to be known
as his conjuring room.

There were reports of him staying up
into the small hours

and passers-by travelling
seeing flickering lights.

(Michael) Toiling away by candlelight.

Legend has it that Crompton
was so worried about local Luddites

hearing about his spinning mule
and attempting to destroy it

that he kept it dismantled
and hidden in his attic.

Today, there's a replica on display.

Did Samuel Crompton
make his fortune from it?

(Erin) Sadly he didn't.

Crompton has been criticised
by historians

for not being a great businessman.

He listened to some of his peers
who encouraged him

to take subscriptions
to have his machine viewed,

rather than to take out a patent.

So they'd come along and give him
small sums of money to see his machine

and then copy it.

So, his idea passed into the world
virtually free of charge?

They said at one point
there were four million spindles

spinning cotton yarn on his invention.

The manufacturers gained all this wealth
and Samuel himself died in near poverty.

Decades after Samuel Crompton died
a poor man,

a rather guilty Bolton erected
a statue of him by public subscription.

But his real monument
was that his invention enabled Bolton

and other Lancashire towns
to establish factories

that were the most productive
and competitive in the world.

Another invention benefited
my next destination

at the tum of the 20th century.

I'm on my way to Leyland.

Bradshaw's tells me that it has
an excellent free grammar school

and I am going there to study
how a local boy, James Sumner,

started a business that made his town
a household name.

Six miles south of Preston,

Leyland is synonymous
with the largest car manufacturer

that Britain has ever had.

British Leyland had its roots
in the commercial vehicle make!

The Lancashire Steam Motor Company,
which was formed here in 1856.

Bob Howell is an engineer at Leyianrfs
British Commercial Vehicle Museum.

What an amazing collection of vehicles.

Yes, we have vehicles from 1896
right up to 2006.

What are we standing amongst here?

This is the Leyland Lioness,
bought by King George V

for conveying visitors
to the Sandringham estate

from the railway station.

And what about this one here?

This is the Popemobile. The designer's
brief for this was a high-sided vehicle,

so the Pope could see the people
and they could see him.

And so that was used
during the Pope's visit to Britain?

(Bob) Yes, it was.

The Leyland marque
might never have existed

had its young founder, James Sumner,
the son of a blacksmith,

not attached a steam engine
to a lawn mower.

(Bob) As a teenager, James was allowed
to experiment in his father's workshop.

He made his own two-cylinder
compound steam engine,

which he fitted to a pedal tricycle.

Then a local head gardener gave James
an old horse-drawn lawn mower.

This is the result.

Immediately the orders
started flooding in,

not only from the owners
of large estate houses,

but also from the cricket clubs.

In fact WG Grace bought one for
his hallowed cricket pitch at the Oval.

James went into partnership
with the wealthy Spurrier family

and, opting to use new petrol engines,

by 1914, the renamed Leyland Motors Lid
employed a workforce of 1,500.

In the 1960s, the company bought
car manufacturers Triumph and Rover

and a merger in 1968,
with British Motor Holdings,

brought Jaguar, Morris
and Austin into the group.

Following the oil crisis of 1913,

this monolithic company
was almost bankrupt

and was first nationalised
and then broken up.

The now American-owned
Leyland Trucks

still produces
state-oi-the-an vehicles,

as this museum example once was.

And we're away!

- How old is the vehicle, Bob?
- 1908.

We believe it is oldest
commercial vehicle running.

What was the history of the vehicle?
What was it used for?

It was involved in the parcel collection
and delivery in the London area.

It did a total of 390,000 miles
before it was retired.

(Michael) How many years
have you been in the motor industry?

- 76.
- 76!

I started October 1st, 1937.

Would you care lo have a little drive?

- (Michael) I would absolutely love to.
- Why not?

Depress clutch, engage second gear.

Release brake.

Apply throttle.

Hooray, we're moving!

This is enormous fun, Bob.

This is a great tribute to Leyland.

More than a century old
and still going strong.

I'm saddened that despite his inventive
genius, Samuel Crompton of Bolton

failed to capitalise
on his invention of the spinning mule.

In Wigan, Margaret Poole
enjoyed greater material success

with her homely recipes.

She's reminded me
that for the rail traveller,

there are two essential artefacts:
a Bradshaw's guide and a sustaining pie.

On the next leg, I hear about
unscrupulous Victorian grocers, “

(woman) Oatmeal was often mixed
with gravel or sand.

This appears to be
about 90 per cent gravel.

I have to hail a train
at a request stop...

Success!

And I learn of King James 's
beefiest knighting.

He took his sword and dubbed
this loin of beef, "Arise Sir Loin."

And everybody went... (roars)