Good Eats (1999–2012): Season 13, Episode 10 - American Classics V: A Pound of Cake - full transcript
Alton explores the history and preparation of pound cake.
(groans)
WELL,
WHAT YOU GETTING THERE?
(groans)
SOUP CAPSULES.
(groans)
COME ON, GRANDPA.
OKAY, I'M COMING.
I'M COMING. I'M COMING.
HOLD YOUR HORSES HERE.
HOLY COW. HOLY COW.
WHAT DO WE GOT?
WHAT DO WE GOT?
OH, WHAT DO WE GOT?
WHAT DO WE GOT?
(sighs)
WELL, WE HAVE LOLIGO VULGARIS
AND PANDALUS BOREALIS.
SO SQUID AND SHRIMP.
YEP.
FABULOUS.
(grunts) MORE LIKE
A BAIT SHOP IN THERE.
I REMEMBER A TIME
WHEN YOU CAME TO A FISH COUNTER
AND YOU GOT REAL FISH.
THEY HAD BULLET‐SHAPED TUNAS
AND‐‐AND‐‐AND SALMON
THAT SMELLED LIKE‐‐
LIKE MELON IN THE SUMMERTIME.
AND‐‐AND WE HAD
THESE BIG BLACK GROUPER
WITH MOUTHS
AS BIG AS BUCKETS.
HMM.
WHAT HAPPENED TO THEM ALL?
WHAT HAPPENED?
OVERFISHED.
DEPLETED, THEY CALL IT.
WE GOT SO GOOD AT GETTING THEM
OUT OF THE WATER
THAT AFTER A WHILE,
WELL, THERE WEREN'T
ENOUGH OF THEM
TO GO BACK AND FISH FOR.
PLENTY OF SQUID, THOUGH.
THAT'S GOOD.
BUFFALO.
HMM? WHAT'S THAT?
THE GREAT PLAINS
USED TO BE COVERED UP
WITH FURRY COW THINGS‐‐
BUFFALO.
THERE WERE SO MANY
THAT PEOPLE SHOT THEM
FROM TRAINS JUST FOR FUN.
THEN ONE DAY,
THEY WERE GONE.
HMM. HAIRY COW THINGS.
YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT BUFFALO.
BUFFALO. YEAH,
THEY'RE GONE, TOO. HMM.
(sighs)
(groans)
WHEW.
UH, HUMANS
HAVE NEVER BEEN TOO GOOD
WITH THE CONCEPT
OF, UH, SUSTAINABILITY.
HMM.
WHAT'S SUSTAINABILITY MEAN?
WELL, IT'S‐‐IT'S A WAY
OF MANAGING
YOUR‐‐YOUR RESOURCES
SO THAT YOU CAN‐‐CAN HAVE
YOUR CAKE AND‐‐AND EAT IT, TOO.
BUT, UH, MONEY, OIL,
RAINFOREST, BUFFALO,
TUNA, YOU NAME IT‐‐
WE'RE PRETTY LOUSY
AT SUSTAINING IT.
DID YOU TALK ABOUT
SUSTAINABILITY ON YOUR SHOW?
DID I? (laughs) NO.
PEOPLE DON'T LIKE IT
WHEN ENTERTAINERS
GET UP ON SOAP BOXES.
HMM.
BUT, GRANDPA,
PEOPLE LISTEN TO YOU.
MAYBE YOU COULD HAVE
CONVINCED THEM
THAT EATING
SUSTAINABLY WAS...
♪
Closed Captions provided by
Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by
Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
NAH.
NEVER WOULD HAVE WORKED.
WELL, JUST PRETEND. WHAT IF YOU
COULD HAVE MADE A DIFFERENCE?
COULD HAVE
MADE A DIFFERENCE?
WELL, TO DO THAT,
FIRST THING THAT I WOULD HAVE
HAD TO HAVE DONE
IS TO‐‐TO TELL THEM THE TRUTH,
EVEN THE REALLY UGLY PARTS.
MM.
AMERICANS
HAVE A BIG APPETITE
FOR A SHORT LIST
OF LARGE FISH
LIKE TUNA, SWORDFISH
AND SALMON.
IN FACT,
COMMERCIAL FISHING OPERATIONS
SWEEP THEM OUT OF THE WATER
SO QUICKLY
THAT THE POPULATIONS SIMPLY
CANNOT SUSTAIN THEMSELVES.
WHAT'S MORE, FOR EVERY
3.7 MILLION METRIC TONS
OF FISH WE DO WANT TO CATCH,
WE ALSO PULL IN
1 MILLION WE DON'T WANT.
THEY SIMPLY DIE ON THE DECKS
AND ARE SHOVELED
BACK INTO THE SEA.
BUT WAIT! THERE'S MORE.
BECAUSE THEY LIVE SO LONG, BIG,
TOP‐OF‐THE‐FOOD‐CHAIN PREDATORS
CAN STORE POLLUTANTS
LIKE MERCURY
AND OTHER HARMFUL CHEMICALS
IN THEIR BODIES
THAT ARE THEN PASSED ON
TO THE EATERS, LIKE US.
THE ANSWER‐‐
WE NEED TO AIM OUR FORKS
LOWER DOWN THE FOOD CHAIN
AND DINE ON SMALLER FISH THAT
GROW QUICKLY, BREED QUICKLY,
AND FRANKLY,
DIE QUICKLY ALL ON THEIR OWN.
IF WE DON'T, WELL,
HERE'S A GRAPHIC REPRESENTATION
OF OUR WILD FISHERIES
JUST 100 YEARS AGO.
HERE'S WHAT TODAY LOOKS LIKE.
AND IF PROJECTIONS BEAR OUT,
BY 2048,
HERE'S WHAT WE'LL BE LOOKING AT.
GET THE PICTURE?
(girl) WAIT A SECOND.
WHY NOT JUST RAISE
THESE BIG FISH LIKE CATTLE?
FARM THEM.
WE TRIED THAT, TOO.
THE PROBLEM IS
IS AMERICANS
LIKE THESE
BIG PELAGIC PREDATORS,
AND THEY'VE GOT
A TERRIBLE CONVERSION RATE.
A CONVERSATION WHAT?
I‐I‐IT MEANS
YOU HAVE TO FEED THEM A LOT
IN ORDER TO GAIN
EVEN A LITTLE BIT OF WEIGHT.
TAKE YOUR‐‐YOUR AVERAGE
BLUEFIN TUNA.
YOU GOTTA FEED HIM
12, 13 POUNDS OF FOOD
JUST TO GAIN
A POUND OF WEIGHT.
NO, IT‐‐IT'S LIKE‐‐
IT'S LIKE FARMING LIONS.
(sighs)
TRYING TO FARM LIONS.
IMAGINE HOW MANY GAZELLE,
DEER AND ANTELOPE AND SUCH
YOU AND I COULD EAT
THAT WE'D HAVE TO RAISE,
SLAUGHTER AND... (grunts)
GRIND INTO LION CHOW
JUST TO GROW A FEW CATS
BIG ENOUGH TO TAKE TO MARKET.
AND WHAT
ARE THE LIVING ENVIRONMENTS?
I MEAN, HERE,
YOU'VE GOT THESE ANIMALS
BORN TO ROAM WIDE‐OPEN SPACES
IN SEARCH OF A VARIED DIET,
AND YOU'RE STICKING THEM
IN A PEN TOGETHER
AND FEEDING THEM
MANUFACTURED FOOD.
I'M TELLING YOU,
SOONER OR LATER, SOME‐‐AAH!
AAH! AAH! AAH! OH!
SO I GUESS YOU'RE NOT
A VERY BIG FISH FARM FAN.
NO. NOW THAT DEPENDS
ON THE FISH.
MORE IMPORTANTLY,
IT DEPENDS ON THE FARM.
HMM.
(Alton) FISH FARMING,
OR AQUACULTURE,
HAS BEEN AROUND
FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.
THE CHINESE
WERE CULTIVATING CARP
CAPTURED IN SMALL PONDS
FROM RECEDING FLOOD WATERS
AS EARLY AS 2500 B. C.,
WHILE THE ALEKOKO FISHPONDS
IN KAUAI
WERE A ROBUST SOURCE OF PROTEIN
FOR NATIVE HAWAIIANS
A THOUSAND YEARS AGO.
TODAY, FARMED FISH AND SHELLFISH
ACCOUNT FOR MORE THAN HALF
OF THE SEAFOOD
CONSUMED ON THIS PLANET.
WHAT EFFECT THAT HAS
ON OUR LITTLE SPINNING ORB
DEPENDS ON THREE FACTORS...
IF THE FISH IN QUESTION
REQUIRES A GREAT DEAL OF SPACE,
GOBBLES MASSIVE QUANTITIES
AND LEAVES EQUALLY MASSIVE
BIOLOGICAL DEPOSITS,
THEN PENNING UP SAID CREATURE
WITH A FEW THOUSAND
OF HIS FELLOWS
IN THE CRAMPED CONDITIONS
WILL PROBABLY LEAD
TO DISEASE AND WASTE SEEPAGE
INTO THE SURROUNDING ECOSYSTEM.
IMPRISONED THUSLY,
SUCH FISH RARELY GROW
TO MARKET DIMENSIONS
WITHOUT THE AID
OF PHARMACEUTICAL AGENTS
SUCH AS ANTIBIOTICS
AND HORMONES.
ALTHOUGH LARGE
OPEN‐WATER PEN OPERATIONS
ARE CHANGING THINGS
FOR THE BETTER,
THE FARMING
OF LARGE PREDATORY FIN FISH
DOES NOT YET QUALIFY THEM
FOR "GOOD EATS" STATUS.
OTHER SPECIES, HOWEVER,
INCLUDING CATFISH,
TILAPIA AND TROUT,
ARE VERY EFFICIENT
AT CONVERTING FEED TO BODY MASS.
THEY DON'T MIND LIVING
IN CLOSE QUARTERS
AND ARE OFTEN CULTIVATED
WELL INLAND,
WHERE THEIR WASTE
AND CONTAMINATION
CAN BE EFFECTIVELY CONTAINED
AND MANAGED.
THE REAL KEY
TO AQUACULTURE SUCCESS
IS IN PROTECTIVE LEGISLATION,
REGULATION AND MANAGEMENT.
ALTHOUGH WE ARE FAR
FROM PERFECT,
THE U. S. LEADS THE WORLD
IN SUCH MATTERS.
SO IF YOU'RE GONNA BUY
FARM‐RAISED FISH,
DO US ALL A FAVOR
AND BUY AMERICAN.
♪
SO GRANDDAD,
WHAT'S SO GOOD ABOUT TROUT?
OH, WHAT'S SO GREAT
ABOUT TROUT?
TROUT‐‐TROUT'S A SWEET,
SWEET FISH.
IT‐‐IT'S GOT ENOUGH FAT,
UH, TO WHERE IT‐‐IT DOESN'T
OVERCOOK VERY EASILY,
HAVE OMEGA‐3 FATTY ACIDS‐‐
SENIORS LIKE THAT‐‐
AND THEY'RE‐‐
THEY'RE SMALL ENOUGH
TO HANDLE WHOLE
AT‐‐AT HOME.
AND‐‐AND YOU KNOW WHAT?
THEY'RE REALLY GOOD
RAMP FISH.
RAMP TO WHAT?
OH, RAMP TO‐‐TO OTHER SMALLER,
EVEN TASTIER FISH,
THINGS LIKE ANCHOVIES,
SARDINES,
AND IT'S ALSO A RAMP
TO‐‐TO UNORTHODOX
COOKING APPLICATIONS.
SO WHAT WOULD YOU MAKE?
WELL... I MIGHT JUST DRAW
SOME INSPIRATION
FROM MY OLD PUB‐CRAWLING DAYS
IN BERLIN.
MM‐HMM.
BEFORE THE ADVENT
OF REFRIGERATION,
THE HERRING, NOT THE DEER,
WAS A VITAL SOURCE
OF PROTEIN AND CALORIES
FOR NORTHERN EUROPEANS,
MOSTLY DUE TO THE FACT
THAT THEIR FAT CONTENT
MADE THEM VERY, VERY EASY
TO PRESERVE VIA SALTING.
NOW SCOOPED FROM THE NORTH
AND BALTIC SEAS BY THE BOATLOAD,
THESE COUSINS OF THE SARDINE
WERE EITHER PICKLED OR SMOKED,
PACKED INTO BARRELS AND SHIPPED
VIA RAIL ACROSS THE CONTINENT.
ALTHOUGH THE ENGLISH HAVE ALWAYS
PREFERRED THEIR HERRING SMOKED‐‐
A DELICACY
THEY NOW CALL KIPPERS,
WHICH THEY EAT FOR BREAKFAST‐‐
GERMANS HAVE ALWAYS PREFERRED
THEIR LITTLE FISHIES
WITH A PICKLING PUNCH,
AND THEY PREFER TO HAVE THEIRS
WHEN THEY'RE DRINKING BEER.
IN FACT,
DURING THE BIEDERMEIER PERIOD,
DRINKING ESTABLISHMENTS
IN AND AROUND BERLIN
BECAME KNOWN FOR TALL JARS
CALLED HUNGERTURM
OR HUNGER TOWERS,
WHICH WERE OFTEN
FILLED TO THE BRIM
WITH PICKLED HERRING ROLLMOPS‐‐
ROLL FROM "ROLLEN" OR "ROLLED"
AND MOPS MEANING "BLOCKHEAD"
OF ALL THINGS.
THEY ALSO USED THE SAME WORD
TO DESCRIBE PUG DOGS.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO SAY
ABOUT THAT.
THIS TASTY TREAT WAS LITTLE MORE
THAN A PIECE OF FISH PRESERVED,
RUBBED WITH MUSTARD, WRAPPED
AROUND A PICKLE AND MARINATED.
NOW HERRING'S
MID‐MILLENNIAL POPULARITY
EVENTUALLY LED TO OVERFISHING
AND POPULATIONS THAT ARE, WELL,
STILL A LITTLE SHAKY
TO THIS DAY.
BUT THAT'S OKAY,
BECAUSE WE'VE GOT TROUT.
WHEN IT COMES TO PICKLING FISH,
A PROCESS I HAPPEN TO ADORE,
I USE A 2‐TIERED APPROACH‐‐
A BRINE AND THEN A PICKLE.
NOW THE BRINE, ALTHOUGH
IT WILL AFFECT THE FLAVORS,
IS PRIMARILY ABOUT
CHANGING THE TEXTURE,
FIRMING UP THE FLESH
OF THE FISH
BY USING SALT TO MANIPULATE
THE PROTEIN STRUCTURE, OKAY?
IN THIS CASE, WE'RE TALKING
ABOUT 3 1/4 OUNCES OF SALT‐‐
HALF A CUP OF KOSHER‐‐DISSOLVED
IN A QUART OF CLEAN COLD WATER.
A POUND OF TROUT FILLETS GO IN,
AND WE REFRIGERATE OVERNIGHT,
UNLESS, OF COURSE, YOU LIVE
IN ALASKA AND IT'S WINTER.
THEN OVERNIGHT
WOULD BE TOO MUCH.
SO LET'S JUST SAY EIGHT HOURS
AND LEAVE IT AT THAT.
ALL RIGHT,
TIME TO GET INTO A PICKLE.
COMBINE 2 CUPS
OF APPLE CIDER VINEGAR
WITH 2 CUPS
OF GOOD OLD‐FASHIONED H20
IN A SAUCEPAN
WITH A 2‐QUART CAPACITY.
ADD TO THAT
1 TABLESPOON OF SUGAR,
EIGHT WHOLE ALLSPICE BERRIES,
EIGHT WHOLE CLOVES‐‐
VERY NICE‐‐
SIX BLACK PEPPERCORNS,
FOUR BAY LEAVES,
WHICH, OF COURSE,
WOULD BE DRIED LIKE THAT,
AND A TEASPOON
OF RED PEPPER FLAKE.
CRANK THE HEAT
TO, WE'LL SAY, MEDIUM‐HIGH,
AND STIR UNTIL YOU HAVE
BROUGHT IT TO A BOIL.
THEN KILL THE HEAT
AND COOL TO ROOM TEMPERATURE.
ALLOW THE FLAVORS
TO FULLY DEVELOP OVERNIGHT
IN THE FRIDGE.
OH, SAME ALASKA RULE APPLIES.
THE NEXT DAY, DRAIN THE BRINE
OFF OF THE FISH,
AND GIVE THE FILLETS
A REALLY, REALLY GOOD RINSING.
DRAIN THAT OFF,
AND THEN FILL IT AGAIN
WITH COLD WATER,
AND ALLOW THE FILLETS
TO JUST SOAK FOR ABOUT AN HOUR.
THEN DRY THEM OFF VERY WELL
WITH PAPER TOWELS.
THERE.
THAT'S WHAT WE'RE LOOKING FOR.
AND NOW WE BUILD.
EXTRACT OUR PICKLING LIQUID.
WE'LL ALSO NEED MORE PICKLES,
SOME OF THESE
LITTLE PICKLED ONIONS,
LITTLE COCKTAIL GUYS,
SOME CORNICHONS,
WHICH ARE SMALL FRENCH
VERY, VERY SOUR PICKLES‐‐
LOVE THOSE‐‐
SOME DIJON MUSTARD, OKAY,
AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST,
ONE MEDIUM ONION,
WHICH YOU WOULD NEVER STORE
IN HERE, NOW WOULD YOU?
GOOD.
♪
GRANDDAD?
UH, YES, DEAR?
THIS SOUNDS
REALLY COMPLICATED.
NO.
NO, NO. IT'S EASY.
IT'S EASY.
JUST JULIENNE THE ONION,
AND THEN
TAKE THE TOOTHPICKS AND‐‐
I‐I‐I DID MENTION
THE TOOTHPICKS, DIDN'T I?
WHAT TOOTHPICKS?
OH, YEAH. YOU'RE GONNA NEED
TOOTHPICKS FOR SURE. NEXT...
OUR ASSEMBLY LINE
IS, WELL, ASSEMBLED,
AND I HAVE TAKEN THE LIBERTY
OF CUTTING THE FISH INTO STRIPS.
LET'S REMEMBER,
THE APPLICATION WAS DEVISED
FOR HERRING
USUALLY A LITTLE BIT SMALLER.
THIS WILL BE A LOT EASIER
TO WORK WITH,
AND IT WON'T BE SO MUCH
IN THE MOUTH.
SO WE BUILD.
I LIKE TO WORK
JUST ONE STRIP AT A TIME,
SO A PIECE OF TROUT GOES DOWN.
IT'S ABOUT 4 1/2, 5 INCHES LONG.
BRUSH ON A LITTLE DIJON,
JUST ENOUGH TO COVER,
AND THEN EITHER GRAB YOURSELF
A PICKLED ONION OR A CORNICHON
AND A STOUT TOOTHPICK.
NOW STICK THE TOOTHPICK
THROUGH THE CENTER FOOD FIRST
AND THEN INTO THE TROUT.
THAT'LL KEEP THINGS
FROM GETTING MUSHED.
PULL THE TOOTHPICK THROUGH,
ROLL IT OVER
AND PUSH IT BACK THROUGH
THE FISH ON THE OTHER SIDE
UNTIL YOU HAVE A SECURE ROLL
LIKE THAT.
AND THEN JUST ADD UNTIL
YOU HAVE ONE LAYER IN YOUR JAR.
COVER WITH SOME OF THE ONION,
ADD ANOTHER LAYER,
MORE ONIONS, UNTIL YOU ARE UP
TO THE TOP OF THE JAR.
THEN IT'S TIME
TO POUR ON THE PICKLE.
THERE YOU GO.
VERY NICE, INDEED.
NOW STASH THESE
BACK IN THE FRIDGE
FOR A MINIMUM OF FIVE HOURS,
ALTHOUGH TWO DAYS
WOULD BE BETTER.
AFTER THAT, YOU CAN SERVE
OR DRAIN OFF THE PICKLE
AND REFRIGERATE FOR, SAY,
UP TO TWO WEEKS.
IF YOU LEAVE THE PICKLE
IN PLACE,
WELL, THE FISH
WILL START TO DISSOLVE,
AND, WELL,
THAT WON'T BE GOOD EATS.
♪
ROLLMOPS MAY LOOK FUNNY,
AND YES,
THEY'VE GOT A FUNNY NAME,
BUT THEY MAY ALSO
MAY BE THE BEST FRIEND
A COLD BEER AND A SLAB
OF PUMPERNICKEL EVER HAD.
WHAT'S PUMPERNICKEL?
OH, IT'S‐‐IT'S ANOTHER SHOW.
BUT AS MUCH IS THE CASE
WITH HERRING
AND A‐ANCHOVIES
AND SARDINES AND WHATNOT,
IF YOU'RE WILLING TO JUST BRINE
YOUR TROUT FOR A FEW HOURS,
WELL, THE CULINARY POSSIBILITIES
ARE ENDLESS.
(snoring)
♪
GRANDPA!
(snoring)
HUH? HUH? WHAT? HELLO.
YOU KIND OF
NODDED OFF THERE.
I DID NOT.
THAT'S RIDICULOUS.
I WAS‐‐I WAS RESTING‐‐
RESTING MY EYES.
NOW WHERE WERE WE?
AH!
LET'S SAY
YOU'VE BRINED YOUR TROUT,
THIS TIME 2 POUNDS
OF THE ORANGE FLESHED VARIETY‐‐
VERY PRETTY‐‐
FOR THREE HOURS
IN THE VERY SAME BRINE
AS BEFORE.
WELL, INTERESTING OPTIONS
WOULD BE AVAILABLE TO YOU.
FOR INSTANCE,
YOU COULD RINSE IT THOROUGHLY,
PAT IT DRY,
POSITION IT ON A RACK
AND RE‐ENTER IN THE REFRIGERATOR
FOR 24 HOURS.
DURING THIS TIME,
WATER‐SOLUBLE PROTEINS
COAXED TO THE SURFACE
OF THE FISH BY THE SALT
WILL DRY,
FORMING A VERY THIN
AND SLIGHTLY TACKY LAYER
CALLED A PELLICLE.
NOW THIS PELLICLE
IS INTERESTING
BECAUSE IT PERFORMS KIND OF
LIKE A MOLECULAR PLASTIC WRAP,
PREVENTING THOSE
HEALTHY FISH OILS INSIDE
FROM SEEPING OUT
DURING COOKING.
THE PELLICLE
IS ALSO HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE
TO THINGS LIKE SMOKE.
OF COURSE, THIS MEANS
WE'LL NEED A SMOKER.
IF YOU HAPPEN TO BE A FAN
OF THIS SHOW,
YOU ARE NO DOUBT FAMILIAR
WITH MY PREDILECTION
FOR SMOKING AND COOKING
IN UNORTHODOX
AND, SOME MIGHT SAY,
UNAUTHORIZED CONTRAPTIONS‐‐
CARDBOARD BOXES, FLOWERPOTS,
THAT KIND OF THING.
MUCH LIKE MARCEL DUCHAMP
AND THE DADAISTS,
I FIND HIGH ART
IN THE REPURPOSING
OF THE ORDINARY
AND THE MUNDANE.
AND I REALLY LIKE HANGING OUT
IN ARMY SURPLUS STORES,
WHERE I FOUND
THIS SUPER SWEET WOODEN BOX.
NOW I'VE GOT NO IDEA
WHAT THE MILITARY DESIGNED THIS
TO ACTUALLY DO,
BUT I DO KNOW IF YOU DRILL A FEW
HOLES IN IT FOR AIR AND SMOKE
AND LOAD IT UP
WITH SOME CHEAP OVEN RACKS,
YOU GOT YOURSELF A NICE SMOKER.
THE EXTERIOR INSIGNIA‐‐
OPTIONAL,
BUT HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
DID THAT MYSELF.
IF YOU ARE KEEN ON USING
A CHARCOAL GRILL FOR SMOKING,
FEEL FREE TO DO SO.
JUST KNOW THAT YOU'RE GONNA
HAVE TO MANAGE THE HEAT,
KEEPING IT VERY LOW,
IDEALLY BETWEEN, SAY,
150 AND 160 DEGREES,
AND THAT IS TOUGH
WITH CHARCOAL, OKAY?
NOW LET'S TAKE A LOOK
AT THE INSIDE.
AHH,
HERE ARE THE INNER WORKINGS‐‐
VERY, VERY SIMPLE.
I HAVE JUST A PAN,
ABOUT A $10 ELECTRIC HOT PLATE
FROM THE HARDWARE STORE
AND ON TOP OF THAT,
AN 8‐INCH CAST‐IRON SKILLET.
INSIDE THAT,
ABOUT 2 CUPS OF HARDWOOD CHIPS.
NOW I LIVE IN THE SOUTH,
SO I USE HICKORY CHIPS,
BUT IT REALLY DOESN'T MATTER
AS LONG AS THEY ARE HARDWOOD.
I'VE GOT THIS CRANKED TO HIGH,
BUT SINCE I'VE GOT
SMOKE STARTING,
I CAN TURN IT
DOWN TO MEDIUM,
WHICH IS WHERE
I'M GONNA LEAVE IT
THROUGHOUT THE SMOKING PROCESS.
NOW I GOT REALLY LUCKY
WITH THIS BOX,
BECAUSE NOT ONLY
DOES IT LOOK COOL, BUT LOOK‐‐
ON THE SIDE, I'VE GOT THESE
LITTLE KIND OF RIBS,
AND I'VE JUST PUT
SOME BINDER CLIPS ON THEM
TO EXTEND THEM TO MAKE IT EASIER
TO LOAD THE FISH,
WHICH GOES RIGHT LIKE THAT.
COULDN'T BE MORE SIMPLE.
ALL RIGHT, WE LID UP.
NOW I'M INTERESTED
IN THE TEMPERATURE
OF THE AIR INSIDE THIS‐‐
THE SMOKE, NOT THE FOOD‐‐
SO I'VE TAKEN THE PROBE
FROM MY DIGITAL THERMOMETER,
STUCK IT THROUGH A WINE CORK,
AND THAT GOES
IN THE TOP OF THE BOX.
YOU'LL NOTICE
I SET THE TEMPERATURE ALARM
TO GO OFF AT 160 DEGREES
AND, JUST FOR FUN, SET THE TIME
FOR TWO AND A HALF HOURS,
WHICH IS THE AVERAGE
FOR THIS DISH.
AT THIS POINT, THERE'S NOTHING
TO DO BUT‐‐I DON'T KNOW‐‐
GO ENJOY A LOVELY BEVERAGE.
(whistle blows)
AND THERE'S ONE
CALLING ME NOW.
♪
(Alton) WHEN YOUR FISH
IS DONE,
IT'LL BE NOTICEABLY DARKER
DUE TO THE SMOKE,
AND YOU MAY ALSO SEE A FEW
WHITISH DROPLETS
THAT ARE SIMPLY PROTEIN THAT'S
BEEN PUSHED UP BY THE HEAT.
NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT.
I SHOULD ALSO POINT OUT THAT
OTHER SMALL SUSTAINABLE FISHIES,
SUCH AS SARDINES,
SMELT AND MACKEREL,
TAKE TO SMOKE
JUST AS WELL AS TROUT.
BESIDES EATING OUT OF HAND
OR OFF THE STICK,
SMOKED TROUT IS DELIGHTFUL
IN A WIDE RANGE OF PRODUCTS.
CONSIDER MAKING IT INTO A DIP
WITH SOUR CREAM AND CHIVES,
SERVE IT ALONG
APPLES AND CHEESE,
ON A SANDWICH,
WITH A SALAD,
ON TOP OF EGGS
OR, OF COURSE,
INSTEAD OF BANANAS
IN A BANANA SPLIT.
YOU'RE KIDDING, RIGHT?
OH. (laughs)
OF COURSE I AM.
OR AM I?
I MEAN, WHAT IF
SOMEBODY DIDN'T WANT
TO GO TO ALL THE TROUBLE
OF BRINING AND STUFF?
OH, YOU YOUNG PEOPLE,
YOU'RE ALWAYS IN SUCH A HURRY.
WHERE ARE YOU GOING?
(laughs)
OH, IT'S ALL RIGHT.
DON'T WORRY.
THERE'S A SPANISH DISH
I KNOW OF CALLED, UH...
UH... UH...
♪
IF YOU'RE LOOKING
FOR A DARN TASTY
BUT PRACTICAL PROCEDURE
FOR A SMALL OILY FISH
LIKE, SAY, TROUT,
YOU MIGHT CONSIDER ESCABECHE,
WHICH IS A SPANISH DISH,
BUT THE WORD IS ACTUALLY PERSIAN
FOR "ACID FOOD,"
BUT IT'S BETTER
THAN IT SOUNDS.
ALTHOUGH SARDINES WOULD BE
THE AUTHENTIC INGREDIENT,
TROUT WILL DO JUST FINE.
AND IT ALL BEGINS
WITH A SIMPLE FRY PROCEDURE.
I HAVE HERE
FOUR HEAD‐ON DRESSED TROUT
IN THE 6‐ TO 8‐OUNCE RANGE.
I'M GONNA DREDGE THEM.
I JUST HAVE A ZIP‐TOP BAG HERE
WITH A 1/3 OF A CUP
OF ALL‐PURPOSE FLOUR
SEASONED WITH A TEASPOON
OF KOSHER SALT
AND A 1/4 TEASPOON
OF BLACK PEPPER.
KNOCK OFF AS MUCH OF THE FLOUR
AS POSSIBLE
AND THEN
INTO 1/3 OF A CUP OF OLIVE OIL
THAT HAS BEEN HEATED
OVER MEDIUM‐HIGH HEAT
IN A 12‐INCH SAUTé PAN.
LET EACH OF THE FISH COOK
FOR A MINUTE ON EACH SIDE
JUST LIKE THAT.
BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU TURN,
BECAUSE THERE COULD BE
A LITTLE BIT OF SPLATTERING.
THERE.
NOW AS THE FISH ARE FINISHED,
MOVE THEM OFF
INTO A 9x13 GLASS BAKING DISH‐‐
DON'T WORRY ABOUT DRAINING THEM
OR ANYTHING‐‐
AND ADD ONE RED ONION JULIENNED
TO THE PAN,
AND TURN THE HEAT
DOWN TO MEDIUM.
STIR THAT OFF, AND LET IT COOK
FOR ABOUT FIVE MINUTES
OR UNTIL
IT IS JUST BARELY TRANSLUCENT.
AT THAT POINT,
YOU ARE GOING TO ADD THREE
CLOVES OF GARLIC SLICED THIN,
AND COOK
FOR AN ADDITIONAL MINUTE.
THERE.
NOW EVERYBODY ELSE IN THE PAN.
THAT WILL BE
1/2 TEASPOON OF SALT‐‐
THERE WE GO‐‐
A 1/4 TEASPOON OF PEPPER,
1 1/2 CUPS OF WHITE WINE‐‐
ANY VINTAGE WILL DO‐‐
THERE WE GO‐‐
1/2 CUP OF PLAIN OLD
WHITE WINE VINEGAR‐‐
THERE‐‐AND THEN THE SPICES‐‐
1/2 A TEASPOON EACH
OF SMOKED PAPRIKA
AND GROUND CORIANDER
AND ABOUT THREE STRIPS
OF LEMON ZEST
AND SIX SPRIGS OF FRESH THYME
RIGHT IN.
NOW DROP THE HEAT TO LOW,
AND BARELY SIMMER UNCOVERED
FOR TEN MINUTES
OR UNTIL IT LOOKS,
WELL, JUST LIKE THIS.
THEN YOU'RE GONNA KILL THE HEAT
AND POUR THE MARINADE‐‐
AND, YES, THAT'S EXACTLY
WHAT THIS IS‐‐
ONTO THE FISH,
ALL THE CHUNKS AND EVERYTHING.
THEN REFRIGERATE UNCOVERED
FOR ANYWHERE FROM 1 TO 12 HOURS.
THEN BRING
BACK TO ROOM TEMPERATURE
TO SERVE
TO A THANKFUL AUDIENCE.
THERE.
SO YOU MARINATE THE FISH
AFTER YOU COOK IT.
THAT'S RIGHT.
PRETTY COOL TRICK, HUH?
OH.
(groans)
I WISH YOU WOULDN'T TAKE YOUR
FACE OFF AT THE TABLE, DAD.
WHEW.
OH, I'M SORRY.
I'M SORRY.
AND I APOLOGIZE
FOR ALL THE THEATRICS,
BUT SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD...
AND HEALTHY OCEANS...
ARE WORTH
SUBJECTING YOUR FACE
TO HOURS
OF UNCOMFORTABLE LATEX.
YOU KNOW, WE HAVE SOME
PRETTY SERIOUS SEAFOOD
AND CONSERVATION CHALLENGES
AHEAD OF US,
BUT AS JACQUES COUSTEAU
SAID...
"WE ARE HUMAN BEINGS,
"AND WE HAVE FAITH,
WE HAVE HOPE,
AND WE CAN WORK."
AND HERE'S THE WORK
I WANT YOU TO DO.
I WANT YOU TO BECOME
SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD SAVVY.
YOU CAN START
BY CHECKING OUT WEB SITES
WITH SOME SOUND SCIENCE
ON THE SUBJECT LIKE...
AND NEXT TIME YOU GO
TO YOUR FAVORITE RESTAURANT
OR LOCAL MARKET,
ASK FOR SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD.
IF THEY DON'T HAVE ANY,
DEMAND TO SPEAK
TO MANAGEMENT IMMEDIATELY.
EXTREME, BUT I LIKE IT.
I LIKE IT.
AND OF COURSE, ABOVE ALL,
EAT MORE FISH.
JUST TRY TO EAT SMALL FISH,
BECAUSE THEY TEND TO BE
MORE SUSTAINABLE.
AND NOT TO MENTION,
GOOD EATS.
WHY DON'T YOU GET
YOUR OWN SHOW?
FINE.
EAT YOUR DINNER.
(Alton) BUZZ, BUZZ,
BUZZ, BUZZ.
WELL,
WHAT YOU GETTING THERE?
(groans)
SOUP CAPSULES.
(groans)
COME ON, GRANDPA.
OKAY, I'M COMING.
I'M COMING. I'M COMING.
HOLD YOUR HORSES HERE.
HOLY COW. HOLY COW.
WHAT DO WE GOT?
WHAT DO WE GOT?
OH, WHAT DO WE GOT?
WHAT DO WE GOT?
(sighs)
WELL, WE HAVE LOLIGO VULGARIS
AND PANDALUS BOREALIS.
SO SQUID AND SHRIMP.
YEP.
FABULOUS.
(grunts) MORE LIKE
A BAIT SHOP IN THERE.
I REMEMBER A TIME
WHEN YOU CAME TO A FISH COUNTER
AND YOU GOT REAL FISH.
THEY HAD BULLET‐SHAPED TUNAS
AND‐‐AND‐‐AND SALMON
THAT SMELLED LIKE‐‐
LIKE MELON IN THE SUMMERTIME.
AND‐‐AND WE HAD
THESE BIG BLACK GROUPER
WITH MOUTHS
AS BIG AS BUCKETS.
HMM.
WHAT HAPPENED TO THEM ALL?
WHAT HAPPENED?
OVERFISHED.
DEPLETED, THEY CALL IT.
WE GOT SO GOOD AT GETTING THEM
OUT OF THE WATER
THAT AFTER A WHILE,
WELL, THERE WEREN'T
ENOUGH OF THEM
TO GO BACK AND FISH FOR.
PLENTY OF SQUID, THOUGH.
THAT'S GOOD.
BUFFALO.
HMM? WHAT'S THAT?
THE GREAT PLAINS
USED TO BE COVERED UP
WITH FURRY COW THINGS‐‐
BUFFALO.
THERE WERE SO MANY
THAT PEOPLE SHOT THEM
FROM TRAINS JUST FOR FUN.
THEN ONE DAY,
THEY WERE GONE.
HMM. HAIRY COW THINGS.
YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT BUFFALO.
BUFFALO. YEAH,
THEY'RE GONE, TOO. HMM.
(sighs)
(groans)
WHEW.
UH, HUMANS
HAVE NEVER BEEN TOO GOOD
WITH THE CONCEPT
OF, UH, SUSTAINABILITY.
HMM.
WHAT'S SUSTAINABILITY MEAN?
WELL, IT'S‐‐IT'S A WAY
OF MANAGING
YOUR‐‐YOUR RESOURCES
SO THAT YOU CAN‐‐CAN HAVE
YOUR CAKE AND‐‐AND EAT IT, TOO.
BUT, UH, MONEY, OIL,
RAINFOREST, BUFFALO,
TUNA, YOU NAME IT‐‐
WE'RE PRETTY LOUSY
AT SUSTAINING IT.
DID YOU TALK ABOUT
SUSTAINABILITY ON YOUR SHOW?
DID I? (laughs) NO.
PEOPLE DON'T LIKE IT
WHEN ENTERTAINERS
GET UP ON SOAP BOXES.
HMM.
BUT, GRANDPA,
PEOPLE LISTEN TO YOU.
MAYBE YOU COULD HAVE
CONVINCED THEM
THAT EATING
SUSTAINABLY WAS...
♪
Closed Captions provided by
Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by
Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
NAH.
NEVER WOULD HAVE WORKED.
WELL, JUST PRETEND. WHAT IF YOU
COULD HAVE MADE A DIFFERENCE?
COULD HAVE
MADE A DIFFERENCE?
WELL, TO DO THAT,
FIRST THING THAT I WOULD HAVE
HAD TO HAVE DONE
IS TO‐‐TO TELL THEM THE TRUTH,
EVEN THE REALLY UGLY PARTS.
MM.
AMERICANS
HAVE A BIG APPETITE
FOR A SHORT LIST
OF LARGE FISH
LIKE TUNA, SWORDFISH
AND SALMON.
IN FACT,
COMMERCIAL FISHING OPERATIONS
SWEEP THEM OUT OF THE WATER
SO QUICKLY
THAT THE POPULATIONS SIMPLY
CANNOT SUSTAIN THEMSELVES.
WHAT'S MORE, FOR EVERY
3.7 MILLION METRIC TONS
OF FISH WE DO WANT TO CATCH,
WE ALSO PULL IN
1 MILLION WE DON'T WANT.
THEY SIMPLY DIE ON THE DECKS
AND ARE SHOVELED
BACK INTO THE SEA.
BUT WAIT! THERE'S MORE.
BECAUSE THEY LIVE SO LONG, BIG,
TOP‐OF‐THE‐FOOD‐CHAIN PREDATORS
CAN STORE POLLUTANTS
LIKE MERCURY
AND OTHER HARMFUL CHEMICALS
IN THEIR BODIES
THAT ARE THEN PASSED ON
TO THE EATERS, LIKE US.
THE ANSWER‐‐
WE NEED TO AIM OUR FORKS
LOWER DOWN THE FOOD CHAIN
AND DINE ON SMALLER FISH THAT
GROW QUICKLY, BREED QUICKLY,
AND FRANKLY,
DIE QUICKLY ALL ON THEIR OWN.
IF WE DON'T, WELL,
HERE'S A GRAPHIC REPRESENTATION
OF OUR WILD FISHERIES
JUST 100 YEARS AGO.
HERE'S WHAT TODAY LOOKS LIKE.
AND IF PROJECTIONS BEAR OUT,
BY 2048,
HERE'S WHAT WE'LL BE LOOKING AT.
GET THE PICTURE?
(girl) WAIT A SECOND.
WHY NOT JUST RAISE
THESE BIG FISH LIKE CATTLE?
FARM THEM.
WE TRIED THAT, TOO.
THE PROBLEM IS
IS AMERICANS
LIKE THESE
BIG PELAGIC PREDATORS,
AND THEY'VE GOT
A TERRIBLE CONVERSION RATE.
A CONVERSATION WHAT?
I‐I‐IT MEANS
YOU HAVE TO FEED THEM A LOT
IN ORDER TO GAIN
EVEN A LITTLE BIT OF WEIGHT.
TAKE YOUR‐‐YOUR AVERAGE
BLUEFIN TUNA.
YOU GOTTA FEED HIM
12, 13 POUNDS OF FOOD
JUST TO GAIN
A POUND OF WEIGHT.
NO, IT‐‐IT'S LIKE‐‐
IT'S LIKE FARMING LIONS.
(sighs)
TRYING TO FARM LIONS.
IMAGINE HOW MANY GAZELLE,
DEER AND ANTELOPE AND SUCH
YOU AND I COULD EAT
THAT WE'D HAVE TO RAISE,
SLAUGHTER AND... (grunts)
GRIND INTO LION CHOW
JUST TO GROW A FEW CATS
BIG ENOUGH TO TAKE TO MARKET.
AND WHAT
ARE THE LIVING ENVIRONMENTS?
I MEAN, HERE,
YOU'VE GOT THESE ANIMALS
BORN TO ROAM WIDE‐OPEN SPACES
IN SEARCH OF A VARIED DIET,
AND YOU'RE STICKING THEM
IN A PEN TOGETHER
AND FEEDING THEM
MANUFACTURED FOOD.
I'M TELLING YOU,
SOONER OR LATER, SOME‐‐AAH!
AAH! AAH! AAH! OH!
SO I GUESS YOU'RE NOT
A VERY BIG FISH FARM FAN.
NO. NOW THAT DEPENDS
ON THE FISH.
MORE IMPORTANTLY,
IT DEPENDS ON THE FARM.
HMM.
(Alton) FISH FARMING,
OR AQUACULTURE,
HAS BEEN AROUND
FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.
THE CHINESE
WERE CULTIVATING CARP
CAPTURED IN SMALL PONDS
FROM RECEDING FLOOD WATERS
AS EARLY AS 2500 B. C.,
WHILE THE ALEKOKO FISHPONDS
IN KAUAI
WERE A ROBUST SOURCE OF PROTEIN
FOR NATIVE HAWAIIANS
A THOUSAND YEARS AGO.
TODAY, FARMED FISH AND SHELLFISH
ACCOUNT FOR MORE THAN HALF
OF THE SEAFOOD
CONSUMED ON THIS PLANET.
WHAT EFFECT THAT HAS
ON OUR LITTLE SPINNING ORB
DEPENDS ON THREE FACTORS...
IF THE FISH IN QUESTION
REQUIRES A GREAT DEAL OF SPACE,
GOBBLES MASSIVE QUANTITIES
AND LEAVES EQUALLY MASSIVE
BIOLOGICAL DEPOSITS,
THEN PENNING UP SAID CREATURE
WITH A FEW THOUSAND
OF HIS FELLOWS
IN THE CRAMPED CONDITIONS
WILL PROBABLY LEAD
TO DISEASE AND WASTE SEEPAGE
INTO THE SURROUNDING ECOSYSTEM.
IMPRISONED THUSLY,
SUCH FISH RARELY GROW
TO MARKET DIMENSIONS
WITHOUT THE AID
OF PHARMACEUTICAL AGENTS
SUCH AS ANTIBIOTICS
AND HORMONES.
ALTHOUGH LARGE
OPEN‐WATER PEN OPERATIONS
ARE CHANGING THINGS
FOR THE BETTER,
THE FARMING
OF LARGE PREDATORY FIN FISH
DOES NOT YET QUALIFY THEM
FOR "GOOD EATS" STATUS.
OTHER SPECIES, HOWEVER,
INCLUDING CATFISH,
TILAPIA AND TROUT,
ARE VERY EFFICIENT
AT CONVERTING FEED TO BODY MASS.
THEY DON'T MIND LIVING
IN CLOSE QUARTERS
AND ARE OFTEN CULTIVATED
WELL INLAND,
WHERE THEIR WASTE
AND CONTAMINATION
CAN BE EFFECTIVELY CONTAINED
AND MANAGED.
THE REAL KEY
TO AQUACULTURE SUCCESS
IS IN PROTECTIVE LEGISLATION,
REGULATION AND MANAGEMENT.
ALTHOUGH WE ARE FAR
FROM PERFECT,
THE U. S. LEADS THE WORLD
IN SUCH MATTERS.
SO IF YOU'RE GONNA BUY
FARM‐RAISED FISH,
DO US ALL A FAVOR
AND BUY AMERICAN.
♪
SO GRANDDAD,
WHAT'S SO GOOD ABOUT TROUT?
OH, WHAT'S SO GREAT
ABOUT TROUT?
TROUT‐‐TROUT'S A SWEET,
SWEET FISH.
IT‐‐IT'S GOT ENOUGH FAT,
UH, TO WHERE IT‐‐IT DOESN'T
OVERCOOK VERY EASILY,
HAVE OMEGA‐3 FATTY ACIDS‐‐
SENIORS LIKE THAT‐‐
AND THEY'RE‐‐
THEY'RE SMALL ENOUGH
TO HANDLE WHOLE
AT‐‐AT HOME.
AND‐‐AND YOU KNOW WHAT?
THEY'RE REALLY GOOD
RAMP FISH.
RAMP TO WHAT?
OH, RAMP TO‐‐TO OTHER SMALLER,
EVEN TASTIER FISH,
THINGS LIKE ANCHOVIES,
SARDINES,
AND IT'S ALSO A RAMP
TO‐‐TO UNORTHODOX
COOKING APPLICATIONS.
SO WHAT WOULD YOU MAKE?
WELL... I MIGHT JUST DRAW
SOME INSPIRATION
FROM MY OLD PUB‐CRAWLING DAYS
IN BERLIN.
MM‐HMM.
BEFORE THE ADVENT
OF REFRIGERATION,
THE HERRING, NOT THE DEER,
WAS A VITAL SOURCE
OF PROTEIN AND CALORIES
FOR NORTHERN EUROPEANS,
MOSTLY DUE TO THE FACT
THAT THEIR FAT CONTENT
MADE THEM VERY, VERY EASY
TO PRESERVE VIA SALTING.
NOW SCOOPED FROM THE NORTH
AND BALTIC SEAS BY THE BOATLOAD,
THESE COUSINS OF THE SARDINE
WERE EITHER PICKLED OR SMOKED,
PACKED INTO BARRELS AND SHIPPED
VIA RAIL ACROSS THE CONTINENT.
ALTHOUGH THE ENGLISH HAVE ALWAYS
PREFERRED THEIR HERRING SMOKED‐‐
A DELICACY
THEY NOW CALL KIPPERS,
WHICH THEY EAT FOR BREAKFAST‐‐
GERMANS HAVE ALWAYS PREFERRED
THEIR LITTLE FISHIES
WITH A PICKLING PUNCH,
AND THEY PREFER TO HAVE THEIRS
WHEN THEY'RE DRINKING BEER.
IN FACT,
DURING THE BIEDERMEIER PERIOD,
DRINKING ESTABLISHMENTS
IN AND AROUND BERLIN
BECAME KNOWN FOR TALL JARS
CALLED HUNGERTURM
OR HUNGER TOWERS,
WHICH WERE OFTEN
FILLED TO THE BRIM
WITH PICKLED HERRING ROLLMOPS‐‐
ROLL FROM "ROLLEN" OR "ROLLED"
AND MOPS MEANING "BLOCKHEAD"
OF ALL THINGS.
THEY ALSO USED THE SAME WORD
TO DESCRIBE PUG DOGS.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO SAY
ABOUT THAT.
THIS TASTY TREAT WAS LITTLE MORE
THAN A PIECE OF FISH PRESERVED,
RUBBED WITH MUSTARD, WRAPPED
AROUND A PICKLE AND MARINATED.
NOW HERRING'S
MID‐MILLENNIAL POPULARITY
EVENTUALLY LED TO OVERFISHING
AND POPULATIONS THAT ARE, WELL,
STILL A LITTLE SHAKY
TO THIS DAY.
BUT THAT'S OKAY,
BECAUSE WE'VE GOT TROUT.
WHEN IT COMES TO PICKLING FISH,
A PROCESS I HAPPEN TO ADORE,
I USE A 2‐TIERED APPROACH‐‐
A BRINE AND THEN A PICKLE.
NOW THE BRINE, ALTHOUGH
IT WILL AFFECT THE FLAVORS,
IS PRIMARILY ABOUT
CHANGING THE TEXTURE,
FIRMING UP THE FLESH
OF THE FISH
BY USING SALT TO MANIPULATE
THE PROTEIN STRUCTURE, OKAY?
IN THIS CASE, WE'RE TALKING
ABOUT 3 1/4 OUNCES OF SALT‐‐
HALF A CUP OF KOSHER‐‐DISSOLVED
IN A QUART OF CLEAN COLD WATER.
A POUND OF TROUT FILLETS GO IN,
AND WE REFRIGERATE OVERNIGHT,
UNLESS, OF COURSE, YOU LIVE
IN ALASKA AND IT'S WINTER.
THEN OVERNIGHT
WOULD BE TOO MUCH.
SO LET'S JUST SAY EIGHT HOURS
AND LEAVE IT AT THAT.
ALL RIGHT,
TIME TO GET INTO A PICKLE.
COMBINE 2 CUPS
OF APPLE CIDER VINEGAR
WITH 2 CUPS
OF GOOD OLD‐FASHIONED H20
IN A SAUCEPAN
WITH A 2‐QUART CAPACITY.
ADD TO THAT
1 TABLESPOON OF SUGAR,
EIGHT WHOLE ALLSPICE BERRIES,
EIGHT WHOLE CLOVES‐‐
VERY NICE‐‐
SIX BLACK PEPPERCORNS,
FOUR BAY LEAVES,
WHICH, OF COURSE,
WOULD BE DRIED LIKE THAT,
AND A TEASPOON
OF RED PEPPER FLAKE.
CRANK THE HEAT
TO, WE'LL SAY, MEDIUM‐HIGH,
AND STIR UNTIL YOU HAVE
BROUGHT IT TO A BOIL.
THEN KILL THE HEAT
AND COOL TO ROOM TEMPERATURE.
ALLOW THE FLAVORS
TO FULLY DEVELOP OVERNIGHT
IN THE FRIDGE.
OH, SAME ALASKA RULE APPLIES.
THE NEXT DAY, DRAIN THE BRINE
OFF OF THE FISH,
AND GIVE THE FILLETS
A REALLY, REALLY GOOD RINSING.
DRAIN THAT OFF,
AND THEN FILL IT AGAIN
WITH COLD WATER,
AND ALLOW THE FILLETS
TO JUST SOAK FOR ABOUT AN HOUR.
THEN DRY THEM OFF VERY WELL
WITH PAPER TOWELS.
THERE.
THAT'S WHAT WE'RE LOOKING FOR.
AND NOW WE BUILD.
EXTRACT OUR PICKLING LIQUID.
WE'LL ALSO NEED MORE PICKLES,
SOME OF THESE
LITTLE PICKLED ONIONS,
LITTLE COCKTAIL GUYS,
SOME CORNICHONS,
WHICH ARE SMALL FRENCH
VERY, VERY SOUR PICKLES‐‐
LOVE THOSE‐‐
SOME DIJON MUSTARD, OKAY,
AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST,
ONE MEDIUM ONION,
WHICH YOU WOULD NEVER STORE
IN HERE, NOW WOULD YOU?
GOOD.
♪
GRANDDAD?
UH, YES, DEAR?
THIS SOUNDS
REALLY COMPLICATED.
NO.
NO, NO. IT'S EASY.
IT'S EASY.
JUST JULIENNE THE ONION,
AND THEN
TAKE THE TOOTHPICKS AND‐‐
I‐I‐I DID MENTION
THE TOOTHPICKS, DIDN'T I?
WHAT TOOTHPICKS?
OH, YEAH. YOU'RE GONNA NEED
TOOTHPICKS FOR SURE. NEXT...
OUR ASSEMBLY LINE
IS, WELL, ASSEMBLED,
AND I HAVE TAKEN THE LIBERTY
OF CUTTING THE FISH INTO STRIPS.
LET'S REMEMBER,
THE APPLICATION WAS DEVISED
FOR HERRING
USUALLY A LITTLE BIT SMALLER.
THIS WILL BE A LOT EASIER
TO WORK WITH,
AND IT WON'T BE SO MUCH
IN THE MOUTH.
SO WE BUILD.
I LIKE TO WORK
JUST ONE STRIP AT A TIME,
SO A PIECE OF TROUT GOES DOWN.
IT'S ABOUT 4 1/2, 5 INCHES LONG.
BRUSH ON A LITTLE DIJON,
JUST ENOUGH TO COVER,
AND THEN EITHER GRAB YOURSELF
A PICKLED ONION OR A CORNICHON
AND A STOUT TOOTHPICK.
NOW STICK THE TOOTHPICK
THROUGH THE CENTER FOOD FIRST
AND THEN INTO THE TROUT.
THAT'LL KEEP THINGS
FROM GETTING MUSHED.
PULL THE TOOTHPICK THROUGH,
ROLL IT OVER
AND PUSH IT BACK THROUGH
THE FISH ON THE OTHER SIDE
UNTIL YOU HAVE A SECURE ROLL
LIKE THAT.
AND THEN JUST ADD UNTIL
YOU HAVE ONE LAYER IN YOUR JAR.
COVER WITH SOME OF THE ONION,
ADD ANOTHER LAYER,
MORE ONIONS, UNTIL YOU ARE UP
TO THE TOP OF THE JAR.
THEN IT'S TIME
TO POUR ON THE PICKLE.
THERE YOU GO.
VERY NICE, INDEED.
NOW STASH THESE
BACK IN THE FRIDGE
FOR A MINIMUM OF FIVE HOURS,
ALTHOUGH TWO DAYS
WOULD BE BETTER.
AFTER THAT, YOU CAN SERVE
OR DRAIN OFF THE PICKLE
AND REFRIGERATE FOR, SAY,
UP TO TWO WEEKS.
IF YOU LEAVE THE PICKLE
IN PLACE,
WELL, THE FISH
WILL START TO DISSOLVE,
AND, WELL,
THAT WON'T BE GOOD EATS.
♪
ROLLMOPS MAY LOOK FUNNY,
AND YES,
THEY'VE GOT A FUNNY NAME,
BUT THEY MAY ALSO
MAY BE THE BEST FRIEND
A COLD BEER AND A SLAB
OF PUMPERNICKEL EVER HAD.
WHAT'S PUMPERNICKEL?
OH, IT'S‐‐IT'S ANOTHER SHOW.
BUT AS MUCH IS THE CASE
WITH HERRING
AND A‐ANCHOVIES
AND SARDINES AND WHATNOT,
IF YOU'RE WILLING TO JUST BRINE
YOUR TROUT FOR A FEW HOURS,
WELL, THE CULINARY POSSIBILITIES
ARE ENDLESS.
(snoring)
♪
GRANDPA!
(snoring)
HUH? HUH? WHAT? HELLO.
YOU KIND OF
NODDED OFF THERE.
I DID NOT.
THAT'S RIDICULOUS.
I WAS‐‐I WAS RESTING‐‐
RESTING MY EYES.
NOW WHERE WERE WE?
AH!
LET'S SAY
YOU'VE BRINED YOUR TROUT,
THIS TIME 2 POUNDS
OF THE ORANGE FLESHED VARIETY‐‐
VERY PRETTY‐‐
FOR THREE HOURS
IN THE VERY SAME BRINE
AS BEFORE.
WELL, INTERESTING OPTIONS
WOULD BE AVAILABLE TO YOU.
FOR INSTANCE,
YOU COULD RINSE IT THOROUGHLY,
PAT IT DRY,
POSITION IT ON A RACK
AND RE‐ENTER IN THE REFRIGERATOR
FOR 24 HOURS.
DURING THIS TIME,
WATER‐SOLUBLE PROTEINS
COAXED TO THE SURFACE
OF THE FISH BY THE SALT
WILL DRY,
FORMING A VERY THIN
AND SLIGHTLY TACKY LAYER
CALLED A PELLICLE.
NOW THIS PELLICLE
IS INTERESTING
BECAUSE IT PERFORMS KIND OF
LIKE A MOLECULAR PLASTIC WRAP,
PREVENTING THOSE
HEALTHY FISH OILS INSIDE
FROM SEEPING OUT
DURING COOKING.
THE PELLICLE
IS ALSO HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE
TO THINGS LIKE SMOKE.
OF COURSE, THIS MEANS
WE'LL NEED A SMOKER.
IF YOU HAPPEN TO BE A FAN
OF THIS SHOW,
YOU ARE NO DOUBT FAMILIAR
WITH MY PREDILECTION
FOR SMOKING AND COOKING
IN UNORTHODOX
AND, SOME MIGHT SAY,
UNAUTHORIZED CONTRAPTIONS‐‐
CARDBOARD BOXES, FLOWERPOTS,
THAT KIND OF THING.
MUCH LIKE MARCEL DUCHAMP
AND THE DADAISTS,
I FIND HIGH ART
IN THE REPURPOSING
OF THE ORDINARY
AND THE MUNDANE.
AND I REALLY LIKE HANGING OUT
IN ARMY SURPLUS STORES,
WHERE I FOUND
THIS SUPER SWEET WOODEN BOX.
NOW I'VE GOT NO IDEA
WHAT THE MILITARY DESIGNED THIS
TO ACTUALLY DO,
BUT I DO KNOW IF YOU DRILL A FEW
HOLES IN IT FOR AIR AND SMOKE
AND LOAD IT UP
WITH SOME CHEAP OVEN RACKS,
YOU GOT YOURSELF A NICE SMOKER.
THE EXTERIOR INSIGNIA‐‐
OPTIONAL,
BUT HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
DID THAT MYSELF.
IF YOU ARE KEEN ON USING
A CHARCOAL GRILL FOR SMOKING,
FEEL FREE TO DO SO.
JUST KNOW THAT YOU'RE GONNA
HAVE TO MANAGE THE HEAT,
KEEPING IT VERY LOW,
IDEALLY BETWEEN, SAY,
150 AND 160 DEGREES,
AND THAT IS TOUGH
WITH CHARCOAL, OKAY?
NOW LET'S TAKE A LOOK
AT THE INSIDE.
AHH,
HERE ARE THE INNER WORKINGS‐‐
VERY, VERY SIMPLE.
I HAVE JUST A PAN,
ABOUT A $10 ELECTRIC HOT PLATE
FROM THE HARDWARE STORE
AND ON TOP OF THAT,
AN 8‐INCH CAST‐IRON SKILLET.
INSIDE THAT,
ABOUT 2 CUPS OF HARDWOOD CHIPS.
NOW I LIVE IN THE SOUTH,
SO I USE HICKORY CHIPS,
BUT IT REALLY DOESN'T MATTER
AS LONG AS THEY ARE HARDWOOD.
I'VE GOT THIS CRANKED TO HIGH,
BUT SINCE I'VE GOT
SMOKE STARTING,
I CAN TURN IT
DOWN TO MEDIUM,
WHICH IS WHERE
I'M GONNA LEAVE IT
THROUGHOUT THE SMOKING PROCESS.
NOW I GOT REALLY LUCKY
WITH THIS BOX,
BECAUSE NOT ONLY
DOES IT LOOK COOL, BUT LOOK‐‐
ON THE SIDE, I'VE GOT THESE
LITTLE KIND OF RIBS,
AND I'VE JUST PUT
SOME BINDER CLIPS ON THEM
TO EXTEND THEM TO MAKE IT EASIER
TO LOAD THE FISH,
WHICH GOES RIGHT LIKE THAT.
COULDN'T BE MORE SIMPLE.
ALL RIGHT, WE LID UP.
NOW I'M INTERESTED
IN THE TEMPERATURE
OF THE AIR INSIDE THIS‐‐
THE SMOKE, NOT THE FOOD‐‐
SO I'VE TAKEN THE PROBE
FROM MY DIGITAL THERMOMETER,
STUCK IT THROUGH A WINE CORK,
AND THAT GOES
IN THE TOP OF THE BOX.
YOU'LL NOTICE
I SET THE TEMPERATURE ALARM
TO GO OFF AT 160 DEGREES
AND, JUST FOR FUN, SET THE TIME
FOR TWO AND A HALF HOURS,
WHICH IS THE AVERAGE
FOR THIS DISH.
AT THIS POINT, THERE'S NOTHING
TO DO BUT‐‐I DON'T KNOW‐‐
GO ENJOY A LOVELY BEVERAGE.
(whistle blows)
AND THERE'S ONE
CALLING ME NOW.
♪
(Alton) WHEN YOUR FISH
IS DONE,
IT'LL BE NOTICEABLY DARKER
DUE TO THE SMOKE,
AND YOU MAY ALSO SEE A FEW
WHITISH DROPLETS
THAT ARE SIMPLY PROTEIN THAT'S
BEEN PUSHED UP BY THE HEAT.
NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT.
I SHOULD ALSO POINT OUT THAT
OTHER SMALL SUSTAINABLE FISHIES,
SUCH AS SARDINES,
SMELT AND MACKEREL,
TAKE TO SMOKE
JUST AS WELL AS TROUT.
BESIDES EATING OUT OF HAND
OR OFF THE STICK,
SMOKED TROUT IS DELIGHTFUL
IN A WIDE RANGE OF PRODUCTS.
CONSIDER MAKING IT INTO A DIP
WITH SOUR CREAM AND CHIVES,
SERVE IT ALONG
APPLES AND CHEESE,
ON A SANDWICH,
WITH A SALAD,
ON TOP OF EGGS
OR, OF COURSE,
INSTEAD OF BANANAS
IN A BANANA SPLIT.
YOU'RE KIDDING, RIGHT?
OH. (laughs)
OF COURSE I AM.
OR AM I?
I MEAN, WHAT IF
SOMEBODY DIDN'T WANT
TO GO TO ALL THE TROUBLE
OF BRINING AND STUFF?
OH, YOU YOUNG PEOPLE,
YOU'RE ALWAYS IN SUCH A HURRY.
WHERE ARE YOU GOING?
(laughs)
OH, IT'S ALL RIGHT.
DON'T WORRY.
THERE'S A SPANISH DISH
I KNOW OF CALLED, UH...
UH... UH...
♪
IF YOU'RE LOOKING
FOR A DARN TASTY
BUT PRACTICAL PROCEDURE
FOR A SMALL OILY FISH
LIKE, SAY, TROUT,
YOU MIGHT CONSIDER ESCABECHE,
WHICH IS A SPANISH DISH,
BUT THE WORD IS ACTUALLY PERSIAN
FOR "ACID FOOD,"
BUT IT'S BETTER
THAN IT SOUNDS.
ALTHOUGH SARDINES WOULD BE
THE AUTHENTIC INGREDIENT,
TROUT WILL DO JUST FINE.
AND IT ALL BEGINS
WITH A SIMPLE FRY PROCEDURE.
I HAVE HERE
FOUR HEAD‐ON DRESSED TROUT
IN THE 6‐ TO 8‐OUNCE RANGE.
I'M GONNA DREDGE THEM.
I JUST HAVE A ZIP‐TOP BAG HERE
WITH A 1/3 OF A CUP
OF ALL‐PURPOSE FLOUR
SEASONED WITH A TEASPOON
OF KOSHER SALT
AND A 1/4 TEASPOON
OF BLACK PEPPER.
KNOCK OFF AS MUCH OF THE FLOUR
AS POSSIBLE
AND THEN
INTO 1/3 OF A CUP OF OLIVE OIL
THAT HAS BEEN HEATED
OVER MEDIUM‐HIGH HEAT
IN A 12‐INCH SAUTé PAN.
LET EACH OF THE FISH COOK
FOR A MINUTE ON EACH SIDE
JUST LIKE THAT.
BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU TURN,
BECAUSE THERE COULD BE
A LITTLE BIT OF SPLATTERING.
THERE.
NOW AS THE FISH ARE FINISHED,
MOVE THEM OFF
INTO A 9x13 GLASS BAKING DISH‐‐
DON'T WORRY ABOUT DRAINING THEM
OR ANYTHING‐‐
AND ADD ONE RED ONION JULIENNED
TO THE PAN,
AND TURN THE HEAT
DOWN TO MEDIUM.
STIR THAT OFF, AND LET IT COOK
FOR ABOUT FIVE MINUTES
OR UNTIL
IT IS JUST BARELY TRANSLUCENT.
AT THAT POINT,
YOU ARE GOING TO ADD THREE
CLOVES OF GARLIC SLICED THIN,
AND COOK
FOR AN ADDITIONAL MINUTE.
THERE.
NOW EVERYBODY ELSE IN THE PAN.
THAT WILL BE
1/2 TEASPOON OF SALT‐‐
THERE WE GO‐‐
A 1/4 TEASPOON OF PEPPER,
1 1/2 CUPS OF WHITE WINE‐‐
ANY VINTAGE WILL DO‐‐
THERE WE GO‐‐
1/2 CUP OF PLAIN OLD
WHITE WINE VINEGAR‐‐
THERE‐‐AND THEN THE SPICES‐‐
1/2 A TEASPOON EACH
OF SMOKED PAPRIKA
AND GROUND CORIANDER
AND ABOUT THREE STRIPS
OF LEMON ZEST
AND SIX SPRIGS OF FRESH THYME
RIGHT IN.
NOW DROP THE HEAT TO LOW,
AND BARELY SIMMER UNCOVERED
FOR TEN MINUTES
OR UNTIL IT LOOKS,
WELL, JUST LIKE THIS.
THEN YOU'RE GONNA KILL THE HEAT
AND POUR THE MARINADE‐‐
AND, YES, THAT'S EXACTLY
WHAT THIS IS‐‐
ONTO THE FISH,
ALL THE CHUNKS AND EVERYTHING.
THEN REFRIGERATE UNCOVERED
FOR ANYWHERE FROM 1 TO 12 HOURS.
THEN BRING
BACK TO ROOM TEMPERATURE
TO SERVE
TO A THANKFUL AUDIENCE.
THERE.
SO YOU MARINATE THE FISH
AFTER YOU COOK IT.
THAT'S RIGHT.
PRETTY COOL TRICK, HUH?
OH.
(groans)
I WISH YOU WOULDN'T TAKE YOUR
FACE OFF AT THE TABLE, DAD.
WHEW.
OH, I'M SORRY.
I'M SORRY.
AND I APOLOGIZE
FOR ALL THE THEATRICS,
BUT SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD...
AND HEALTHY OCEANS...
ARE WORTH
SUBJECTING YOUR FACE
TO HOURS
OF UNCOMFORTABLE LATEX.
YOU KNOW, WE HAVE SOME
PRETTY SERIOUS SEAFOOD
AND CONSERVATION CHALLENGES
AHEAD OF US,
BUT AS JACQUES COUSTEAU
SAID...
"WE ARE HUMAN BEINGS,
"AND WE HAVE FAITH,
WE HAVE HOPE,
AND WE CAN WORK."
AND HERE'S THE WORK
I WANT YOU TO DO.
I WANT YOU TO BECOME
SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD SAVVY.
YOU CAN START
BY CHECKING OUT WEB SITES
WITH SOME SOUND SCIENCE
ON THE SUBJECT LIKE...
AND NEXT TIME YOU GO
TO YOUR FAVORITE RESTAURANT
OR LOCAL MARKET,
ASK FOR SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD.
IF THEY DON'T HAVE ANY,
DEMAND TO SPEAK
TO MANAGEMENT IMMEDIATELY.
EXTREME, BUT I LIKE IT.
I LIKE IT.
AND OF COURSE, ABOVE ALL,
EAT MORE FISH.
JUST TRY TO EAT SMALL FISH,
BECAUSE THEY TEND TO BE
MORE SUSTAINABLE.
AND NOT TO MENTION,
GOOD EATS.
WHY DON'T YOU GET
YOUR OWN SHOW?
FINE.
EAT YOUR DINNER.
(Alton) BUZZ, BUZZ,
BUZZ, BUZZ.