Good Eats (1999–2012): Season 12, Episode 15 - Pantry Raid X: Dark Side of the Cane - full transcript
OKAY, WE'RE LOOKING AT SOME
WEIGHT GAIN, CHOLESTEROL,
BLOOD PRESSURE INCREASES...
INDICATES A TREND THAT I REALLY
DON'T LIKE TO SEE AT YOUR AGE.
MOST OF THESE ISSUES CAN BE
TREATED WITH SOME SERIOUS
LIFESTYLE CHANGES.
WELL, WHAT THE HECK?
MY LIFE DOESN'T HAVE MUCH STYLE
ANYWAY.
I'M GONNA WRITE A PRESCRIPTION
FOR THIS...
UNTIL WE CAN GET
THE CHOLESTEROL UNDER CONTROL.
I'M SORRY, IT'S RATHER
EXPENSIVE.
EXPENSIVE?
WELL, CAN'T I TAKE
THE GENERIC VERSION?
MR. BROWN, THERE ARE SOME
THINGS YOU JUST DON'T WANT TO
CHEAP OUT ON.
ALL RIGHT, LET'S TALK ABOUT
NUTRITION.
SINCE I SUSPECT YOU'LL PROBABLY
IGNORE MY ADVICE ANYWAY...
PROBABLY.
I'M GOING TO WRITE AN
ADDITIONAL PRESCRIPTION
FOR THIS --
SALMON, THREE TIMES WEEKLY.
SALMON?
IT'S FULL OF OMEGA-3 FATTY ACIDS
AND OTHER HEART HEALTHY
NUTRIENTS.
WHAT KIND OF SALMON?
OH, IT DOESN'T MATTER.
IT DOESN'T MATTER?
SO YOU WON'T WRITE ME
A PRESCRIPTION
FOR A GENERIC DRUG,
BUT WHEN IT COMES TO SALMON,
ANY OLD FISH WILL DO?
SALMON IS SALMON.
SALMON IS SALMON?
YOU KNOW, I DON'T KNOW WHERE
YOU GOT YOUR TRAINING, "DOCTOR,"
BUT I CAN TELL YOU THIS,
IF YOU'RE GONNA GO AROUND
WRITING PRESCRIPTIONS FOR FISH,
YOU OUGHTA GET YOUR
ICHTHYOLOGICAL DUCKS IN A ROW,
OKAY?
I SUPPOSE YOU'RE GONNA TELL ME
THAT PACIFIC WILD KING SALMON
AND FARMED ATLANTIC SALMON
ARE THE SAME THING!
WELL, THEY ARE!
WELL, THEY...
YOU KNOW WHAT?
I GOT HALF A MIND TO
DROP A DIME ON YOU.
FIND OUT WHAT THE AMA THINKS
OF YOUR ATTITUDE.
THERE'S NO REASON...
TO CONTINUE THIS RELATIONSHIP!
YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY RIGHT.
NOW JUST GIVE ME MY SUCKER
AND I'LL GET ON WITH MY...
¶
AND SO THAT'S WHEN THE GUY
ACTUALLY LOOKS RIGHT AT ME
AND SAYS, "SALMON IS SALMON."
AMAZING, DID YOU CONTACT
THE AMA?
BOY DID I, I DROPPED A DIME ON
HIM THAT AFTERNOON.
THEY HUNG UP ON ME!
MY CURRENT STANDING WITH
THE MEDICAL COMMUNITY
MAY BE STRAINED
BUT AT LEAST I'M SOLID WITH
MY FISH MONGER.
AN INDIVIDUAL WHO IS
ESPECIALLY HELPFUL
WHEN IT COMES TO ISSUES OF
SALMON.
MY GOOD MAN, I NOTICE
YOU'VE GOT SEVERAL EXAMPLES
HERE,
BUT YOU'VE GOT ONE THAT'S $7.99
AND ANOTHER ONE THAT'S 20 BUCKS!
WHAT'S THE DEAL?
THIS ONE IS FARM RAISED
AND THIS ONE IS WILD.
AH, THE BIG ISSUE,
WILD VERSUS FARMED,
EXPENSIVE VERSUS CHEAP.
NATURE VERSUS NURTURE.
NOW LET'S COMPARE THE TWO BY
FIRST EXAMINING
THE LIFE CYCLE OF
A WILD SALMON.
OUR HERO IS BORN,
WAY UP SOME COLD,
FRESHWATER STREAM
WHERE HIS FAMILY HAS BEEN
HATCHING FOR COUNTLESS
GENERATIONS.
NOW WHEN HE'S JUST
A SMALL LITTLE FRY,
HE HEADS DOWN INTO
THE BIG OCEAN
WHERE HE SWIMS FAR AND WIDE
FOR TWO TO SEVEN YEARS,
DEPENDING ON HIS SPECIES,
FEASTING ALL THE WHILE ON
POSEIDON'S RICH BUFFET.
SHRIMP COCKTAILS ARE ESPECIALLY
APPRECIATED.
YEP, IT'S A WILD, WILD LIFE.
BUT THEN ONE DAY,
HE GETS A FUNNY ITCH, AN URGE,
AN INKLING, TO GET BACK HOME.
AND IF HE MAKES IT UPSTREAM
PAST THE HYDRO-ELECTRIC DAMS
AND BEARS AND WHATNOT,
HE'LL MAKE IT!
THANKS TO A MYSTERIOUS TYPE OF
BIOPHYSICAL GPS.
NOW ONCE THERE,
HE HOOKS UP WITH A MATE,
SPAWNS,
AND THEN PROMPTLY GOES BELLY UP.
WHOA, WHOA, BACK UP,
LET ME OUTTA HERE.
NOW SINCE OUR HERO LIVED
HIS LIFE TO THE FULLEST,
AND HIS BODY WANTED TO PREPARE
FOR THAT LONG, UPSTREAM SWIM,
BY THE TIME HE REACHED
THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER,
WHERE THE FISHERMEN WERE
WAITING FOR HIM, OF COURSE,
HIS BODY WAS AT ITS SUCCULENT,
FLAVORFUL, AND FATTY BEST.
AND NOW, LET US CONSIDER
THE CONTRASTING EXISTENCE
OF THE FARM RAISED FISH.
HE'S BORN INTO A NICE, SAFE
HATCHERY TANK,
FAR AWAY FROM ANY PREDATORS
OR DISCOMFORT.
PRETTY SOON HE'S CHUCKED INTO
AN OFF-SHORE PEN
WITH A FEW THOUSAND OF HIS
OTHER FRIENDS.
NOW UNCHALLENGED AND BORED,
HE GROWS FAT ON FISH FOOD,
WHICH IS CHOCK FULL OF
GROUND-UP OTHER FISH THAT
HE WOULD NEVER EAT IN NATURE.
AND IT HAS ASTAXANTHIN,
WHICH ADDS COLOR
TO HIS OTHERWISE GRAY FLESH.
WHEN HE HITS MARKET WEIGHT,
HE MEETS HIS END,
OFTEN BY ELECTRICAL SHOCK
OR A BLOW TO THE HEAD.
ALL RIGHT, THAT'S IT!
LOOK, I'M NOT GONNA TELL YOU
NOT TO BUY FARMED SALMON,
'CAUSE I'D RATHER YOU EAT
FARMED SALMON THAN NO SALMON
AT ALL.
BUT TRUST ME WHEN I TELL YOU
THAT WHEN IT IS AVAILABLE,
WILD SALMON IS WELL WORTH
THE INVESTMENT.
SO IS THERE ANOTHER REASON FOR
HAVING ALL OF THIS SALMON?
WELL, THERE ARE DIFFERENT
VARIETIES.
AH, INDEED THERE ARE.
IN THE SPRING, THE PACIFIC
BRINGS IN BIG OLD KING
OR SHINOOK SALMON.
THEN IN SUMMER,
THE SILVER OR COHO COME TO
ANSWER THE CALL OF THE WILD.
THE SOCKEYE, WHOSE DEEP RED
FLESH IS MY PERSONAL FAVORITE,
RUN ALL THE WAY FROM SPRING
TO FALL.
TWO OTHER VARIETIES ARE COMMON,
THE CHUMS, AKA, KETA,
AND THE SMALLER PINKS,
THEY'RE AVAILABLE SOMETIMES
ALL THE WAY 'TIL OCTOBER,
THOUGH MORE OFTEN THAN NOT
THEY END UP IN CANS.
MY POINT IS, BY THE END OF
FALL,
MOST OF THE WILD SALMON IS...
GONE.
I SAY MOST BECAUSE KINGS
SOMETIMES ARRIVE OUT OF SEASON
IN CALIFORNIA, OREGON,
AND WASHINGTON.
BUT THOSE FISH RARELY EVER
LEAVE THE LOCAL MARKETS.
OH, AS FOR FARMED
ATLANTIC SALMON,
THEY'RE PRETTY MUCH ALWAYS
AVAILABLE
AND THEY'RE EASY TO RECOGNIZE
BY THEIR LARGE, DARK SPOTS,
AND THEIR STUBBY,
UNDERDEVELOPED FINS.
ALL RIGHT, ANYTHING ELSE?
WELL, THERE IS THE WHOLE...
YOU KNOW...
OH, YEAH, THE THING WE TALKED
ABOUT.
LOOK, UM, YOU HAVE GOT TO STOP
THINKING THAT FRESH AND RAW
ARE THE SAME THING.
I MEAN, IF WE DEFINED FRESH
AS THE CLOSEST CONDITION TO
LIVE,
THEN IN MANY CASES, FROZEN WINS.
IN FACT, FISH THAT ARE
FLASH FROZEN IMMEDIATELY
AFTER CAPTURE
AND ARE KEPT AT A PROPER
FROZEN TEMPERATURE,
ARE CONSIDERED BY MANY,
INCLUDING US,
AS BEING MUCH BETTER THAN FRESH
OR RAW.
THAT SAID, WE DON'T WANT ANY
RE-FROZEN OR RE-THAWED PRODUCT,
THAT WOULD MEAN ICE DAMAGE,
AND ICE DAMAGE IS NEVER
GOOD EATS.
YOUR BEST FISH INVESTMENT
THOUGH,
GET YOURSELF ONE OF THESE.
PRIMUM NON NOCERE.
FIRST DO NO HARM.
ALTHOUGH IT'S A PHRASE MOST
OFTEN ASSOCIATED WITH
MEDICAL STUDENTS,
IT'S AN EXCELLENT KITCHEN MOTTO.
ESPECIALLY WHEN WILD SALMON
IS CONCERNED.
AFTER ALL, ALL YOU REALLY
HAVE TO DO IS NOT MESS IT UP.
NOW IDEALLY, YOU WOULD COOK
YOUR FISH THE DAY THAT YOU
BOUGHT IT,
BUT HEY, THE REAL WORLD, RIGHT?
SO PROPER STORAGE IS CRITICAL.
WHAT I LIKE TO DO IS
I LIKE TO KEEP THE FISH ON ICE,
BUT I DON'T WANT IT TO WATERLOG.
SO HERE'S WHAT I DO,
I'VE GOT A BED OF ICE
WITH SOME FOIL.
THE FISH GOES ON TOP OF
THE FOIL,
AND THIS BOX IS FULL OF HOLES.
SO THE ICE CAN MELT
AND DRAIN INTO ANOTHER CONTAINER
BELOW.
AND I'VE JUST GOT A COUPLE OF
PASTRY RINGS IN THE BOTTOM
TO GIVE A BIT OF ELEVATION.
THIS RIG WILL KEEP THE FISH,
WITHOUT ADDING ICE,
PROBABLY FOR ABOUT THREE DAYS.
AFTER THAT YOU NEED TO COOK YOUR
FISH.
WILD SALMON ALL BUT DEMAND
SIMPLE COOKING.
AFTER ALL, THEY'VE GOT PLENTY
OF FLAVOR,
THEY DON'T NEED YOU TO BRING
ANYTHING ELSE TO THE PARTY.
BUT JUST AS YOU SHOULD NOT
CONFUSE FRESH WITH RAW,
DON'T THINK FOR A MOMENT THAT
SIMPLE IS SYNONYMOUS WITH EASY.
UNLIKE, SAY A T-BONE STEAK,
WHICH IS RELATIVELY UNIFORM
IN SIZE AND SHAPE,
SALMON CUTS, WELL, THEY COVER
A WIDE RANGE.
CONSIDER FOR INSTANCE,
THESE THREE PARCELS.
THEY ALL WEIGH WITHIN
ABOUT 2 OUNCES OF EACH OTHER.
BUT THE WAY THAT YOU WOULD WANT
TO GET HEAT INTO,
SAY THIS PIECE,
IS VERY, VERY DIFFERENT FROM
THE WAY YOU WOULD APPROACH
THIS PIECE.
THAT IS WHY THE WISE COOK WILL
ALWAYS APPROACH WILD SALMON
WITH AT LEAST THREE DIFFERENT
COOKING METHODS.
METHOD ONE --
PAN SEARING.
BUT INSTEAD OF USING MY
FAVORITE STAINLESS STEEL,
I WANT TO USE LESS FAT.
SO I'M GOING WITH A 10-INCH
NON-STICK SKILLET
PLACED OVER MEDIUM HEAT.
NOW IT SHOULD BE NOTED THAT
THE MIRACULOUS MATERIAL
LINING THAT PAN OVER THERE,
WAS INVENTED BY COMPLETE
ACCIDENT IN 1938...
AH, THIS IS THE ONE.
BY ONE DR. ROY J. PLUNKETT
WHO WAS WORKING WITH
A REFRIGERANT
CALLED TETRAFLUOROETHYLENE
WHICH SPONTANEOUSLY POLYMERIZED
INTO POLYTETRAFLUOROETHYLENE,
A WHITE, WAXY SOLID
WHICH IS CHEMICALLY INERT.
WELL, ALMOST.
AND QUITE POSSIBLY
THE SLIPPERIEST SUBSTANCE ON
EARTH.
NOW THE MILITARY ORIGINALLY PUT
IT TO GOOD USE
COATING PARTS INSIDE
THE ORIGINAL ATOM BOMBS.
AND ALSO LUBRICATING THE NOSE
CONES ON MISSILES.
LATER A FRENCH FISHERMAN
PUT IT ON HIS NETS.
HE THEN GOT THE WISE IDEA OF
APPLYING IT TO HIS WIFE'S PANS.
LEAVE IT TO THE FRENCH, RIGHT?
AMAZING.
ALL RIGHT, THE PAN FEELS GOOD,
SO OUT WITH TWO 6-OUNCE
COHO OR SILVER FILLETS,
BUT GLOVE FIRST.
TYPICALLY, SALMON PIN BONES
ARE PULLED BEFORE
THE SIDE IS BROKEN DOWN
INTO INDIVIDUAL FILLETS,
BUT SOME MEGA MARTS SKIP THIS
STEP TO SAVE TIME.
SO ALWAYS CHECK BY RUNNING
YOUR FINGERS DOWN THE SIDES
OF THE CUTS.
THAT'S USUALLY WHERE YOU'RE
GONNA FIND THEM.
NOW IF YOU FIND ONE
YOU MUST REMOVE IT.
SOMEBODY COULD CHOKE ON IT!
AND NEEDLENOSE PLIERS ARE
THE BEST TOOL FOR THE JOB.
SO JUST GET A GRIP
RIGHT ON THE END OF THE BONE
AND TRY TO PULL IN
THE DIRECTION OF THE MUSCLE
GRAIN
SO THAT YOU DON'T TEAR
AS YOU EXTRACT.
SINCE THEY'RE STICKY AND SHARP
WE'LL BE SURE TO EVACUATE THESE
FROM THE SCENE BEFORE
PROCEEDING.
NOW THE REST OF THE PREP,
WE'LL NEED A LITTLE BIT OF LUBE.
OIL WILL ENHANCE BROWNING
AND, OF COURSE, MAKE SURE THAT
IT DOESN'T STICK TO THE PAN.
A LITTLE SALT,
ACTUALLY A LITTLE MORE THAN
YOU THINK YOU'LL NEED.
I'M FIGURING ABOUT 1/4 TEASPOON
OVERALL.
LET ME GET THAT GLOVE OFF
AND GRIND ON SOME FRESH
BLACK PEPPER.
THERE,
NOW INTO THE PAN.
AND MAKE SURE YOU GIVE THEM
PLENTY OF ROOM TO BREATHE.
NOW THERE ARE DOZENS OF
DIFFERENT FISH FLIPPING
IMPLEMENTS ON THE MARKET,
BUT THIS IS MY ABSOLUTE
FAVORITE.
IT IS NYLON,
SO IT'S SAFE ON NONSTICK
SURFACES,
AND RELATIVELY HEAT RESISTANT.
ALTHOUGH, AS YOU CAN SEE,
IT DOESN'T LIKE A DIRECT FLAME
TOO MUCH.
IT IS SEMI-FLEXIBLE,
IT IS SLOTTED FOR REDUCED
FRICTION,
AND IT HAS A SLIGHT UPTURN
AT THE END.
IT CAN BE USED UP LIKE THIS
OR TURNED OVER LIKE THIS,
DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU ARE
ATTEMPTING TO MANIPULATE.
OKAY, FOR FILLETS IN
THE 6 TO 8-OUNCE RANGE
WE'RE LOOKING FOR A TOTAL
COOK TIME OF 4 MINUTES.
NOW IF THE PIECES WERE FLATTER
I'D GO FOR 2 MINUTES
ON EACH SIDE,
BUT THESE ARE BLOCKY ENOUGH
TO HAVE, WELL, FOUR SIDES.
SO I'M GONNA GO 1 1/2 MINUTES ON
EACH OF THE BIG SIDES,
AND 30 SECONDS ON THE STUBBY
LITTLE ENDS THERE.
NOW FRANKLY, I WOULD RATHER USE
A TIMER OVER A THERMOMETER
DURING THIS PROCESS.
BECAUSE WHEN FINISHED,
THESE PIECES WILL ACTUALLY
ENCOMPASS
A WIDE RANGE OF DONENESSES
FROM MEDIUM AT THE THIN FLAP,
ALL THE WAY TO ALMOST RARE
AT THE HEAD.
IF I TRIED TO USE JUST
A THERMOMETER,
WHO KNOWS WHAT I WOULD HIT.
SO WHEN YOUR FILLETS ARE
FINALLY DONE
EVACUATE TO A CLEAN PLATE.
THOSE LOOK GOOD.
AND COVER LOOSELY WITH FOIL.
LET THEM REST FOR FIVE MINUTES.
NOW IN OUR SAUTE SCENARIO,
VERY HIGH HEAT MOVES VIA
CONDUCTION,
THAT IS, DIRECT CONTACT,
VERY QUICKLY INTO THE MEAT.
NOW THIS BLITZKRIEG INWARD
THERMAL MARCH
CREATES A TASTY SEAR ON
THE OUTSIDE,
AND CREAMY, MOIST
GOODNESS WITHIN.
BUT FRESH FROM THE FIRE,
THERE'S STILL A LOT OF HEAT
WONDERING AROUND
LIKE MARAUDING SOLDIERS IN HERE.
IF WE GO JUST SLICING INTO
THE MEAT,
THAT HEAT WILL COME
RUSHING OUT,
BRINGING LOTS OF JUICE WITH IT.
BY ALLOWING THE MEAT TO REST
FOR A WHILE,
THE HEAT WILL NATURALLY ABATE
AND THE JUICE WILL STAY WHERE IT
BELONGS,
IN HERE
INSTEAD OF OUT HERE.
GORGEOUS FISH AND TASTY.
AND ALL WE HAD TO DO WAS
EXERCISE PRIMUM NON NOCERE.
NOW A SIMPLE SIDE SALAD
WITH A LITTLE HOMEMADE
VINAIGRETTE
ADDS A NICE ACIDIC COUNTERPOINT
TO THE SLIGHT GAMINESS OF
THE FISH.
BUT YOU KNOW WHAT?
WHAT IF WE WERE DEALING WITH
A MUCH THICKER PIECE OF FISH?
LET'S SAY YOU WANTED TO COOK UP
THIS BIG, TALL KING, OR SHINOOK
SALMON FILLET,
WHICH HAS GOTTA WEIGH,
I DON'T KNOW, 10 TO 12 OUNCES,
A NICE DINNER FOR TWO.
NOW WE COULD CERTAINLY COOK THIS
UP IN OUR PAN JUST AS BEFORE,
BUT WITH THIS MUCH MASS,
IT WOULD BE VERY, VERY DIFFICULT
TO MANAGE ALL THE HEAT.
THE FAR BETTER BET IS TO GO
WITH WHAT IS CALLED
BI-LEVEL COOKING.
FIRST STEP, MAKE SURE THAT YOUR
OVEN RACK IS RIGHT SMACK DAB
IN THE MIDDLE OF YOUR BOX,
AND CRANK THE HEAT TO 475.
ALTHOUGH WE DO NEED A PAN
FOR OUR BIG OLD HUNK OF SHINOOK
OR KING SALMON,
WE DON'T WANT TO GO WITH
NONSTICK
BECAUSE IT CAN RELEASE
DANGEROUS FUMES AT HIGH OVEN
TEMPERATURES.
THIS TIME WE'LL GO WITH
GOOD OLD-FASHIONED
STAINLESS STEEL
SET OVER MEDIUM HEAT.
LET THIS PAN HEAT
FOR TWO MINUTES.
NO MORE, NO LESS.
NOW AS TO THE FISH,
WE WILL LUBE MUCH AS BEFORE,
FIRST FEELING FOR PIN BONES.
NO, I'M NOT PETTING IT.
HERE WE GO, LITTLE BIT OF OIL,
JUST ENOUGH TO COVER.
IF WE GET TOO MUCH
WE'LL GET A SMOKY MESS.
SALT TO COVER,
CAN'T SAY HOW MUCH
BECAUSE IT SHOULD BE ENOUGH.
OFF WITH THE GLOVE
AND THEN THE BLACK PEPPER.
NOW IF YOU WANT TO KNOW IF YOUR
PAN IS REALLY HOT ENOUGH,
GO OVER AND GET YOURSELF
A LITTLE WATER...
THAT'S HOT ENOUGH.
IT EVAPORATES WITHOUT
DANCING AROUND TOO MUCH.
THIS TIME I'M SHAKING THE FISH
IN THE PAN
TO MAKE SURE THAT IT DOES NOT
STICK.
ALL RIGHT, LET THIS COOK
FOR THREE MINUTES.
NO SHAKING, NO POKING,
NO PRODDING.
JUST LET IT BE.
OUR BIG OLD KING FILLET HAS BEEN
COOKING FOR THREE MINUTES.
IT'S TIME TO FLIP
AND MOVE TO THE NEXT PHASE OF
COOKING.
AND INTO THE HOT OVEN
FOR EXACTLY FIVE MINUTES.
HOW CAN I BE SO SURE ABOUT
THE TIME?
WELL, BECAUSE I'VE GOT
ONE OF THESE IN HERE.
I'M SURE THAT YOU'VE GOT ONE
IN YOUR OVEN TOO.
NO? WE BETTER HAVE A TALK.
LISTEN, IF YOU THINK THAT
FLASHING LIGHT ON THE FRONT OF
YOUR OVEN,
OR THE NUMBER ON THE LITTLE
KNOB,
IS A TRUTHFUL REPRESENTATION OF
WHAT'S GOING ON IN THAT BOX,
I GOT NEWS FOR YA --
OVENS LIE.
OR AT THE VERY LEAST,
THEY TELL YOU WHAT THEY THINK
YOU WANT TO HEAR.
BUT SEE, THERE ARE SO MANY
FACTORS,
THE SIZE AND SHAPE OF THE OVEN,
WHERE THE HEATING ELEMENTS ARE,
WHERE THE FOOD IS,
AND HOW MUCH FOOD IS IN THERE,
ALL EFFECT THE ACTUAL HEAT
SITUATION GOING ON IN THERE.
SO IN OTHER WORDS,
YOU CAN'T REALLY TRUST IT.
BUT YOU CAN SPY ON IT,
AND THAT HELPS.
NOW BASICALLY THERE ARE TWO
DIFFERENT TYPES OF THERMOMETER
THAT ARE DESIGNED TO RESIDE
IN THERE 24/7.
THERE ARE ROUND DIALS
AND THEY ARE ALWAYS ARMED WITH
A LITTLE COIL IN THE BACK
INSIDE,
AND THAT COIL IS MADE OUT OF
TWO DIFFERENT KINDS OF METAL
THAT ARE LAMINATED TOGETHER.
AND THEY EXPAND AND CONTRACT
AT DIFFERENT RATES.
AND WHAT THAT MEANS IS
AS THE OVEN GETS HOTTER OR
COOLER,
THIS COIL OPENS UP OR CLOSES
AND THAT MOVES THE DIAL.
THEY'RE EASY TO READ,
THEY'RE CHEAP,
AND... ALMOST COMPLETELY
UNRELIABLE.
WHAT I DEPEND ON ARE
OLD-FASHIONED BULB STYLE
THERMOMETERS.
LIKE THIS.
SOME OF THEM STILL ACTUALLY
HAVE MERCURY IN THEM,
AND OTHERS HAVE A DYE,
DYED ALCOHOL ACTUALLY,
THAT'S A LITTLE EASIER TO READ
THAN THE MERCURY.
THIS MODEL IS MADE TO HANG
ON A RACK, VERY CONVENIENT.
IF YOU HAVE A FLAT BOTTOMED
OVEN,
YOU MIGHT WANT ONE OF THESE
STAND MODELS.
WHATEVER YOU DO,
GO FOR SOMETHING
THAT'S VERY, VERY EASY TO READ.
AND POSITION IT HALFWAY BETWEEN
THE WALL AND THE CENTER OF
THE OVEN.
(timer beeping)
I STILL DON'T TRUST IT.
ALL RIGHT, TIME TO EXTRACT.
WE WILL GET THIS OUT OF THE PAN
AND ONTO A CLEAN PLATE.
IT'S ALSO COOL, WHICH IS
IMPORTANT.
WE STILL NEED TO REST OF COURSE,
SO WE'LL COVER WITH FOIL.
BUT THIS TIME GO WITH
5 TO 10 MINUTES.
WELL, AS YOU CAN SEE,
THE KING IS WELL RESTED.
DARN DELICIOUS STUFF,
I'LL TELL YA.
CRISPY BROWN ON THE OUTSIDE,
SLIGHTLY PINK IN THE CENTER,
WHICH IS EXACTLY HOW
YOU KNOW YOU WANT IT.
BY THE WAY, MY ADVICE,
IF ANYONE EVER ASKS YOU
TO PREPARE WILD SALMON
WELL DONE,
JUST FEED THEM
THE FARMED STUFF,
THEY WON'T KNOW THE DIFFERENCE.
ANYWAY, THIS IS GOOD AND GOOD
FOR YOU.
PACKED WITH THOSE
OMEGA-3 FATTY ACIDS THAT
YOUR DOCTOR HAS BEEN
NAGGING YOU ABOUT.
WHAT EXACTLY IS AN OMEGA-3?
WELL, LET'S TAKE A MICROSCOPIC
LOOK
AT THE END OF A FATTY ACID.
OKAY, JUST THE VERY END OF
THE MOLECULE.
WE KNOW THAT THIS IS AN
UNSATURATED FATTY ACID
'CAUSE IT'S GOT AT LEAST ONE
DOUBLE BOND BETWEEN
THOSE CARBONS OVER THERE.
AND YOU NOTICE THAT PUTS KIND
OF A KINK IN THE MOLECULE.
NOW IF THE LAST DOUBLE BOND
OCCURS THREE ATOMS DOWN FROM
THE END,
OR OMEGA OF THE MOLECULE,
THEN YOU'VE GOT YOURSELF AN
OMEGA-3 FATTY ACID.
AND THERE ARE A LOT OF
DIFFERENT EXAMPLES OF THOSE.
AND THERE AREN'T TOO MANY
PLACES TO GET THEM.
NOTHING IS BETTER THAN
WILD SALMON, IN FACT.
SO EAT UP AND YOU'LL KEEP
YOUR PILL PUSHER MAN AT BAY.
LET US NOW CONTEMPLATE
THIS LUSCIOUS LOOKING SIDE OF
SOCKEYE.
NOW TECHNICALLY IT IS
THIN ENOUGH TO SAUTE
BUT I'D HAVE TO CUT IT
INTO SEVERAL PIECES
TO FIT IT INTO A PAN.
AND YOU KNOW,
I'D REALLY LIKE TO SERVE IT
IN TACT.
NOW THE GRILL WOULD BE
AN OPTION.
BUT ONCE THE FAT IN THERE WARMS
AND STARTS TO RENDER OUT,
FLAME UPS WOULD BE INEVITABLE.
AND AT $15-PLUS A POUND,
I REALLY DON'T WANT TO
FACE THAT PARTICULAR TYPE
OF FIRE.
AND OF COURSE, THERE'S TURNING,
ALWAYS TREACHEROUS WITH
THIS SIZE AND SHAPE.
LUCKILY, MOST OVENS HAVE
A BROILER,
WHICH IS NOTHING BUT A GRILL
TURNED UPSIDE DOWN.
AND SINCE WE CAN CONTROL
THE DISTANCE
BETWEEN THE HEAT AND THE FISH,
WE CAN ENSURE PERFECT DONENESS
WITHOUT HAVING TO FLIP AT ALL.
AND THAT OPENS UP SOME
INTERESTING
FLAVOR AUGMENTATION OPTIONS.
GRAB YOUR FOOD PROCESSOR,
AND IF YOU'VE GOT A MINI
WORK BOWL,
YOU MIGHT WANT TO INSERT THAT.
NOW INTO THAT GOES 1/3 CUP
OF DARK BROWN SUGAR.
2 TABLESPOONS OF LEMON ZEST.
AND YES, THAT NEEDS TO BE FRESH.
YOU'LL ALSO NEED SOME SALT,
1 1/2 TEASPOONS.
KOSHER SHOULD DO THE TRICK.
AND FINALLY, BLACK PEPPER,
WHICH I LIKE A LOT WITH SALMON.
1/2 TEASPOON WILL DO.
THERE, NOW JUST BUZZ THAT
UNTIL IT IS THOROUGHLY COMBINED.
THERE.
NOW YOU'RE GONNA WANT TO
PUT YOUR FISH OUT ONTO SOME
FOIL ON TOP OF A PAN
BECAUSE WHEN THE SUGAR MELTS
IT'S GONNA STICK A BIT.
AND THEN JUST SMOOTH ON
THAT MIXTURE.
PAT IT ON,
DON'T PUSH DOWN TO HARD.
THIS IS GONNA NEED TO
JUST SIT AT ROOM TEMPERATURE
FOR 45 MINUTES.
NOW POSITION YOUR BROILER RACK
SO THE SALMON WILL BE 3 INCHES
FROM THE HEAT.
CRANK YOUR BROILER TO ITS
HIGHEST SETTING
AND WAIT FOR 2 MINUTES.
THEN SLIDE IN YOUR FISH
FOR 6 TO 8 MINUTES
OR UNTIL THE EXTERIOR IS
GOLDEN BROWN AND DELICIOUS
AND THE DEEPEST PART OF
THE INTERIOR
TEMPS AT ABOUT 131 DEGREES.
GIVE OR TAKE A DEGREE OR TWO.
ALL RIGHT, TIME IS UP
AND THE FISH LOOKS GOOD.
NOW WE DO NEED TO REST,
BUT BECAUSE I DON'T WANT THAT
CRUST TO GET GUMMY FROM STEAM,
I'M GONNA LEAVE IT UNCOVERED
FOR FIVE TO TEN MINUTES.
I'LL BE BACK.
AS FOR SERVING, I SAY...
KEEP IT SIMPLE.
ALL SIDES ARE COMPLETELY
OPTIONAL.
HECK, I SAY THE FORK'S
EVEN OPTIONAL.
DELICIOUS,
IT'S LIKE A CREME BRULEE...
ONLY LEMONY AND SALMONY.
BUT WITH JUST AS MUCH DELICIOUS
FLAVOR.
I HOPE THAT WE'VE GIVEN YOU
THE CONFIDENCE
AND THE TECHNIQUES
TO HELP YOU FACE
THE WILD SALMON.
THE BEST $20 PER POUND
YOU'LL EVER TASTE.
JUST REMEMBER,
BUY QUALITY, STORE IT PROPERLY,
AND ABOVE ALL,
ALL TOGETHER NOW,
PRIMUM NON NOCERE!
NEXT TIME, MAYBE WE'LL TACKLE
SOMETHING A LITTLE BIGGER.
SEE YA NEXT TIME.
Closed Captioning Provided by
Scripps Networks, LLC
WEIGHT GAIN, CHOLESTEROL,
BLOOD PRESSURE INCREASES...
INDICATES A TREND THAT I REALLY
DON'T LIKE TO SEE AT YOUR AGE.
MOST OF THESE ISSUES CAN BE
TREATED WITH SOME SERIOUS
LIFESTYLE CHANGES.
WELL, WHAT THE HECK?
MY LIFE DOESN'T HAVE MUCH STYLE
ANYWAY.
I'M GONNA WRITE A PRESCRIPTION
FOR THIS...
UNTIL WE CAN GET
THE CHOLESTEROL UNDER CONTROL.
I'M SORRY, IT'S RATHER
EXPENSIVE.
EXPENSIVE?
WELL, CAN'T I TAKE
THE GENERIC VERSION?
MR. BROWN, THERE ARE SOME
THINGS YOU JUST DON'T WANT TO
CHEAP OUT ON.
ALL RIGHT, LET'S TALK ABOUT
NUTRITION.
SINCE I SUSPECT YOU'LL PROBABLY
IGNORE MY ADVICE ANYWAY...
PROBABLY.
I'M GOING TO WRITE AN
ADDITIONAL PRESCRIPTION
FOR THIS --
SALMON, THREE TIMES WEEKLY.
SALMON?
IT'S FULL OF OMEGA-3 FATTY ACIDS
AND OTHER HEART HEALTHY
NUTRIENTS.
WHAT KIND OF SALMON?
OH, IT DOESN'T MATTER.
IT DOESN'T MATTER?
SO YOU WON'T WRITE ME
A PRESCRIPTION
FOR A GENERIC DRUG,
BUT WHEN IT COMES TO SALMON,
ANY OLD FISH WILL DO?
SALMON IS SALMON.
SALMON IS SALMON?
YOU KNOW, I DON'T KNOW WHERE
YOU GOT YOUR TRAINING, "DOCTOR,"
BUT I CAN TELL YOU THIS,
IF YOU'RE GONNA GO AROUND
WRITING PRESCRIPTIONS FOR FISH,
YOU OUGHTA GET YOUR
ICHTHYOLOGICAL DUCKS IN A ROW,
OKAY?
I SUPPOSE YOU'RE GONNA TELL ME
THAT PACIFIC WILD KING SALMON
AND FARMED ATLANTIC SALMON
ARE THE SAME THING!
WELL, THEY ARE!
WELL, THEY...
YOU KNOW WHAT?
I GOT HALF A MIND TO
DROP A DIME ON YOU.
FIND OUT WHAT THE AMA THINKS
OF YOUR ATTITUDE.
THERE'S NO REASON...
TO CONTINUE THIS RELATIONSHIP!
YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY RIGHT.
NOW JUST GIVE ME MY SUCKER
AND I'LL GET ON WITH MY...
¶
AND SO THAT'S WHEN THE GUY
ACTUALLY LOOKS RIGHT AT ME
AND SAYS, "SALMON IS SALMON."
AMAZING, DID YOU CONTACT
THE AMA?
BOY DID I, I DROPPED A DIME ON
HIM THAT AFTERNOON.
THEY HUNG UP ON ME!
MY CURRENT STANDING WITH
THE MEDICAL COMMUNITY
MAY BE STRAINED
BUT AT LEAST I'M SOLID WITH
MY FISH MONGER.
AN INDIVIDUAL WHO IS
ESPECIALLY HELPFUL
WHEN IT COMES TO ISSUES OF
SALMON.
MY GOOD MAN, I NOTICE
YOU'VE GOT SEVERAL EXAMPLES
HERE,
BUT YOU'VE GOT ONE THAT'S $7.99
AND ANOTHER ONE THAT'S 20 BUCKS!
WHAT'S THE DEAL?
THIS ONE IS FARM RAISED
AND THIS ONE IS WILD.
AH, THE BIG ISSUE,
WILD VERSUS FARMED,
EXPENSIVE VERSUS CHEAP.
NATURE VERSUS NURTURE.
NOW LET'S COMPARE THE TWO BY
FIRST EXAMINING
THE LIFE CYCLE OF
A WILD SALMON.
OUR HERO IS BORN,
WAY UP SOME COLD,
FRESHWATER STREAM
WHERE HIS FAMILY HAS BEEN
HATCHING FOR COUNTLESS
GENERATIONS.
NOW WHEN HE'S JUST
A SMALL LITTLE FRY,
HE HEADS DOWN INTO
THE BIG OCEAN
WHERE HE SWIMS FAR AND WIDE
FOR TWO TO SEVEN YEARS,
DEPENDING ON HIS SPECIES,
FEASTING ALL THE WHILE ON
POSEIDON'S RICH BUFFET.
SHRIMP COCKTAILS ARE ESPECIALLY
APPRECIATED.
YEP, IT'S A WILD, WILD LIFE.
BUT THEN ONE DAY,
HE GETS A FUNNY ITCH, AN URGE,
AN INKLING, TO GET BACK HOME.
AND IF HE MAKES IT UPSTREAM
PAST THE HYDRO-ELECTRIC DAMS
AND BEARS AND WHATNOT,
HE'LL MAKE IT!
THANKS TO A MYSTERIOUS TYPE OF
BIOPHYSICAL GPS.
NOW ONCE THERE,
HE HOOKS UP WITH A MATE,
SPAWNS,
AND THEN PROMPTLY GOES BELLY UP.
WHOA, WHOA, BACK UP,
LET ME OUTTA HERE.
NOW SINCE OUR HERO LIVED
HIS LIFE TO THE FULLEST,
AND HIS BODY WANTED TO PREPARE
FOR THAT LONG, UPSTREAM SWIM,
BY THE TIME HE REACHED
THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER,
WHERE THE FISHERMEN WERE
WAITING FOR HIM, OF COURSE,
HIS BODY WAS AT ITS SUCCULENT,
FLAVORFUL, AND FATTY BEST.
AND NOW, LET US CONSIDER
THE CONTRASTING EXISTENCE
OF THE FARM RAISED FISH.
HE'S BORN INTO A NICE, SAFE
HATCHERY TANK,
FAR AWAY FROM ANY PREDATORS
OR DISCOMFORT.
PRETTY SOON HE'S CHUCKED INTO
AN OFF-SHORE PEN
WITH A FEW THOUSAND OF HIS
OTHER FRIENDS.
NOW UNCHALLENGED AND BORED,
HE GROWS FAT ON FISH FOOD,
WHICH IS CHOCK FULL OF
GROUND-UP OTHER FISH THAT
HE WOULD NEVER EAT IN NATURE.
AND IT HAS ASTAXANTHIN,
WHICH ADDS COLOR
TO HIS OTHERWISE GRAY FLESH.
WHEN HE HITS MARKET WEIGHT,
HE MEETS HIS END,
OFTEN BY ELECTRICAL SHOCK
OR A BLOW TO THE HEAD.
ALL RIGHT, THAT'S IT!
LOOK, I'M NOT GONNA TELL YOU
NOT TO BUY FARMED SALMON,
'CAUSE I'D RATHER YOU EAT
FARMED SALMON THAN NO SALMON
AT ALL.
BUT TRUST ME WHEN I TELL YOU
THAT WHEN IT IS AVAILABLE,
WILD SALMON IS WELL WORTH
THE INVESTMENT.
SO IS THERE ANOTHER REASON FOR
HAVING ALL OF THIS SALMON?
WELL, THERE ARE DIFFERENT
VARIETIES.
AH, INDEED THERE ARE.
IN THE SPRING, THE PACIFIC
BRINGS IN BIG OLD KING
OR SHINOOK SALMON.
THEN IN SUMMER,
THE SILVER OR COHO COME TO
ANSWER THE CALL OF THE WILD.
THE SOCKEYE, WHOSE DEEP RED
FLESH IS MY PERSONAL FAVORITE,
RUN ALL THE WAY FROM SPRING
TO FALL.
TWO OTHER VARIETIES ARE COMMON,
THE CHUMS, AKA, KETA,
AND THE SMALLER PINKS,
THEY'RE AVAILABLE SOMETIMES
ALL THE WAY 'TIL OCTOBER,
THOUGH MORE OFTEN THAN NOT
THEY END UP IN CANS.
MY POINT IS, BY THE END OF
FALL,
MOST OF THE WILD SALMON IS...
GONE.
I SAY MOST BECAUSE KINGS
SOMETIMES ARRIVE OUT OF SEASON
IN CALIFORNIA, OREGON,
AND WASHINGTON.
BUT THOSE FISH RARELY EVER
LEAVE THE LOCAL MARKETS.
OH, AS FOR FARMED
ATLANTIC SALMON,
THEY'RE PRETTY MUCH ALWAYS
AVAILABLE
AND THEY'RE EASY TO RECOGNIZE
BY THEIR LARGE, DARK SPOTS,
AND THEIR STUBBY,
UNDERDEVELOPED FINS.
ALL RIGHT, ANYTHING ELSE?
WELL, THERE IS THE WHOLE...
YOU KNOW...
OH, YEAH, THE THING WE TALKED
ABOUT.
LOOK, UM, YOU HAVE GOT TO STOP
THINKING THAT FRESH AND RAW
ARE THE SAME THING.
I MEAN, IF WE DEFINED FRESH
AS THE CLOSEST CONDITION TO
LIVE,
THEN IN MANY CASES, FROZEN WINS.
IN FACT, FISH THAT ARE
FLASH FROZEN IMMEDIATELY
AFTER CAPTURE
AND ARE KEPT AT A PROPER
FROZEN TEMPERATURE,
ARE CONSIDERED BY MANY,
INCLUDING US,
AS BEING MUCH BETTER THAN FRESH
OR RAW.
THAT SAID, WE DON'T WANT ANY
RE-FROZEN OR RE-THAWED PRODUCT,
THAT WOULD MEAN ICE DAMAGE,
AND ICE DAMAGE IS NEVER
GOOD EATS.
YOUR BEST FISH INVESTMENT
THOUGH,
GET YOURSELF ONE OF THESE.
PRIMUM NON NOCERE.
FIRST DO NO HARM.
ALTHOUGH IT'S A PHRASE MOST
OFTEN ASSOCIATED WITH
MEDICAL STUDENTS,
IT'S AN EXCELLENT KITCHEN MOTTO.
ESPECIALLY WHEN WILD SALMON
IS CONCERNED.
AFTER ALL, ALL YOU REALLY
HAVE TO DO IS NOT MESS IT UP.
NOW IDEALLY, YOU WOULD COOK
YOUR FISH THE DAY THAT YOU
BOUGHT IT,
BUT HEY, THE REAL WORLD, RIGHT?
SO PROPER STORAGE IS CRITICAL.
WHAT I LIKE TO DO IS
I LIKE TO KEEP THE FISH ON ICE,
BUT I DON'T WANT IT TO WATERLOG.
SO HERE'S WHAT I DO,
I'VE GOT A BED OF ICE
WITH SOME FOIL.
THE FISH GOES ON TOP OF
THE FOIL,
AND THIS BOX IS FULL OF HOLES.
SO THE ICE CAN MELT
AND DRAIN INTO ANOTHER CONTAINER
BELOW.
AND I'VE JUST GOT A COUPLE OF
PASTRY RINGS IN THE BOTTOM
TO GIVE A BIT OF ELEVATION.
THIS RIG WILL KEEP THE FISH,
WITHOUT ADDING ICE,
PROBABLY FOR ABOUT THREE DAYS.
AFTER THAT YOU NEED TO COOK YOUR
FISH.
WILD SALMON ALL BUT DEMAND
SIMPLE COOKING.
AFTER ALL, THEY'VE GOT PLENTY
OF FLAVOR,
THEY DON'T NEED YOU TO BRING
ANYTHING ELSE TO THE PARTY.
BUT JUST AS YOU SHOULD NOT
CONFUSE FRESH WITH RAW,
DON'T THINK FOR A MOMENT THAT
SIMPLE IS SYNONYMOUS WITH EASY.
UNLIKE, SAY A T-BONE STEAK,
WHICH IS RELATIVELY UNIFORM
IN SIZE AND SHAPE,
SALMON CUTS, WELL, THEY COVER
A WIDE RANGE.
CONSIDER FOR INSTANCE,
THESE THREE PARCELS.
THEY ALL WEIGH WITHIN
ABOUT 2 OUNCES OF EACH OTHER.
BUT THE WAY THAT YOU WOULD WANT
TO GET HEAT INTO,
SAY THIS PIECE,
IS VERY, VERY DIFFERENT FROM
THE WAY YOU WOULD APPROACH
THIS PIECE.
THAT IS WHY THE WISE COOK WILL
ALWAYS APPROACH WILD SALMON
WITH AT LEAST THREE DIFFERENT
COOKING METHODS.
METHOD ONE --
PAN SEARING.
BUT INSTEAD OF USING MY
FAVORITE STAINLESS STEEL,
I WANT TO USE LESS FAT.
SO I'M GOING WITH A 10-INCH
NON-STICK SKILLET
PLACED OVER MEDIUM HEAT.
NOW IT SHOULD BE NOTED THAT
THE MIRACULOUS MATERIAL
LINING THAT PAN OVER THERE,
WAS INVENTED BY COMPLETE
ACCIDENT IN 1938...
AH, THIS IS THE ONE.
BY ONE DR. ROY J. PLUNKETT
WHO WAS WORKING WITH
A REFRIGERANT
CALLED TETRAFLUOROETHYLENE
WHICH SPONTANEOUSLY POLYMERIZED
INTO POLYTETRAFLUOROETHYLENE,
A WHITE, WAXY SOLID
WHICH IS CHEMICALLY INERT.
WELL, ALMOST.
AND QUITE POSSIBLY
THE SLIPPERIEST SUBSTANCE ON
EARTH.
NOW THE MILITARY ORIGINALLY PUT
IT TO GOOD USE
COATING PARTS INSIDE
THE ORIGINAL ATOM BOMBS.
AND ALSO LUBRICATING THE NOSE
CONES ON MISSILES.
LATER A FRENCH FISHERMAN
PUT IT ON HIS NETS.
HE THEN GOT THE WISE IDEA OF
APPLYING IT TO HIS WIFE'S PANS.
LEAVE IT TO THE FRENCH, RIGHT?
AMAZING.
ALL RIGHT, THE PAN FEELS GOOD,
SO OUT WITH TWO 6-OUNCE
COHO OR SILVER FILLETS,
BUT GLOVE FIRST.
TYPICALLY, SALMON PIN BONES
ARE PULLED BEFORE
THE SIDE IS BROKEN DOWN
INTO INDIVIDUAL FILLETS,
BUT SOME MEGA MARTS SKIP THIS
STEP TO SAVE TIME.
SO ALWAYS CHECK BY RUNNING
YOUR FINGERS DOWN THE SIDES
OF THE CUTS.
THAT'S USUALLY WHERE YOU'RE
GONNA FIND THEM.
NOW IF YOU FIND ONE
YOU MUST REMOVE IT.
SOMEBODY COULD CHOKE ON IT!
AND NEEDLENOSE PLIERS ARE
THE BEST TOOL FOR THE JOB.
SO JUST GET A GRIP
RIGHT ON THE END OF THE BONE
AND TRY TO PULL IN
THE DIRECTION OF THE MUSCLE
GRAIN
SO THAT YOU DON'T TEAR
AS YOU EXTRACT.
SINCE THEY'RE STICKY AND SHARP
WE'LL BE SURE TO EVACUATE THESE
FROM THE SCENE BEFORE
PROCEEDING.
NOW THE REST OF THE PREP,
WE'LL NEED A LITTLE BIT OF LUBE.
OIL WILL ENHANCE BROWNING
AND, OF COURSE, MAKE SURE THAT
IT DOESN'T STICK TO THE PAN.
A LITTLE SALT,
ACTUALLY A LITTLE MORE THAN
YOU THINK YOU'LL NEED.
I'M FIGURING ABOUT 1/4 TEASPOON
OVERALL.
LET ME GET THAT GLOVE OFF
AND GRIND ON SOME FRESH
BLACK PEPPER.
THERE,
NOW INTO THE PAN.
AND MAKE SURE YOU GIVE THEM
PLENTY OF ROOM TO BREATHE.
NOW THERE ARE DOZENS OF
DIFFERENT FISH FLIPPING
IMPLEMENTS ON THE MARKET,
BUT THIS IS MY ABSOLUTE
FAVORITE.
IT IS NYLON,
SO IT'S SAFE ON NONSTICK
SURFACES,
AND RELATIVELY HEAT RESISTANT.
ALTHOUGH, AS YOU CAN SEE,
IT DOESN'T LIKE A DIRECT FLAME
TOO MUCH.
IT IS SEMI-FLEXIBLE,
IT IS SLOTTED FOR REDUCED
FRICTION,
AND IT HAS A SLIGHT UPTURN
AT THE END.
IT CAN BE USED UP LIKE THIS
OR TURNED OVER LIKE THIS,
DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU ARE
ATTEMPTING TO MANIPULATE.
OKAY, FOR FILLETS IN
THE 6 TO 8-OUNCE RANGE
WE'RE LOOKING FOR A TOTAL
COOK TIME OF 4 MINUTES.
NOW IF THE PIECES WERE FLATTER
I'D GO FOR 2 MINUTES
ON EACH SIDE,
BUT THESE ARE BLOCKY ENOUGH
TO HAVE, WELL, FOUR SIDES.
SO I'M GONNA GO 1 1/2 MINUTES ON
EACH OF THE BIG SIDES,
AND 30 SECONDS ON THE STUBBY
LITTLE ENDS THERE.
NOW FRANKLY, I WOULD RATHER USE
A TIMER OVER A THERMOMETER
DURING THIS PROCESS.
BECAUSE WHEN FINISHED,
THESE PIECES WILL ACTUALLY
ENCOMPASS
A WIDE RANGE OF DONENESSES
FROM MEDIUM AT THE THIN FLAP,
ALL THE WAY TO ALMOST RARE
AT THE HEAD.
IF I TRIED TO USE JUST
A THERMOMETER,
WHO KNOWS WHAT I WOULD HIT.
SO WHEN YOUR FILLETS ARE
FINALLY DONE
EVACUATE TO A CLEAN PLATE.
THOSE LOOK GOOD.
AND COVER LOOSELY WITH FOIL.
LET THEM REST FOR FIVE MINUTES.
NOW IN OUR SAUTE SCENARIO,
VERY HIGH HEAT MOVES VIA
CONDUCTION,
THAT IS, DIRECT CONTACT,
VERY QUICKLY INTO THE MEAT.
NOW THIS BLITZKRIEG INWARD
THERMAL MARCH
CREATES A TASTY SEAR ON
THE OUTSIDE,
AND CREAMY, MOIST
GOODNESS WITHIN.
BUT FRESH FROM THE FIRE,
THERE'S STILL A LOT OF HEAT
WONDERING AROUND
LIKE MARAUDING SOLDIERS IN HERE.
IF WE GO JUST SLICING INTO
THE MEAT,
THAT HEAT WILL COME
RUSHING OUT,
BRINGING LOTS OF JUICE WITH IT.
BY ALLOWING THE MEAT TO REST
FOR A WHILE,
THE HEAT WILL NATURALLY ABATE
AND THE JUICE WILL STAY WHERE IT
BELONGS,
IN HERE
INSTEAD OF OUT HERE.
GORGEOUS FISH AND TASTY.
AND ALL WE HAD TO DO WAS
EXERCISE PRIMUM NON NOCERE.
NOW A SIMPLE SIDE SALAD
WITH A LITTLE HOMEMADE
VINAIGRETTE
ADDS A NICE ACIDIC COUNTERPOINT
TO THE SLIGHT GAMINESS OF
THE FISH.
BUT YOU KNOW WHAT?
WHAT IF WE WERE DEALING WITH
A MUCH THICKER PIECE OF FISH?
LET'S SAY YOU WANTED TO COOK UP
THIS BIG, TALL KING, OR SHINOOK
SALMON FILLET,
WHICH HAS GOTTA WEIGH,
I DON'T KNOW, 10 TO 12 OUNCES,
A NICE DINNER FOR TWO.
NOW WE COULD CERTAINLY COOK THIS
UP IN OUR PAN JUST AS BEFORE,
BUT WITH THIS MUCH MASS,
IT WOULD BE VERY, VERY DIFFICULT
TO MANAGE ALL THE HEAT.
THE FAR BETTER BET IS TO GO
WITH WHAT IS CALLED
BI-LEVEL COOKING.
FIRST STEP, MAKE SURE THAT YOUR
OVEN RACK IS RIGHT SMACK DAB
IN THE MIDDLE OF YOUR BOX,
AND CRANK THE HEAT TO 475.
ALTHOUGH WE DO NEED A PAN
FOR OUR BIG OLD HUNK OF SHINOOK
OR KING SALMON,
WE DON'T WANT TO GO WITH
NONSTICK
BECAUSE IT CAN RELEASE
DANGEROUS FUMES AT HIGH OVEN
TEMPERATURES.
THIS TIME WE'LL GO WITH
GOOD OLD-FASHIONED
STAINLESS STEEL
SET OVER MEDIUM HEAT.
LET THIS PAN HEAT
FOR TWO MINUTES.
NO MORE, NO LESS.
NOW AS TO THE FISH,
WE WILL LUBE MUCH AS BEFORE,
FIRST FEELING FOR PIN BONES.
NO, I'M NOT PETTING IT.
HERE WE GO, LITTLE BIT OF OIL,
JUST ENOUGH TO COVER.
IF WE GET TOO MUCH
WE'LL GET A SMOKY MESS.
SALT TO COVER,
CAN'T SAY HOW MUCH
BECAUSE IT SHOULD BE ENOUGH.
OFF WITH THE GLOVE
AND THEN THE BLACK PEPPER.
NOW IF YOU WANT TO KNOW IF YOUR
PAN IS REALLY HOT ENOUGH,
GO OVER AND GET YOURSELF
A LITTLE WATER...
THAT'S HOT ENOUGH.
IT EVAPORATES WITHOUT
DANCING AROUND TOO MUCH.
THIS TIME I'M SHAKING THE FISH
IN THE PAN
TO MAKE SURE THAT IT DOES NOT
STICK.
ALL RIGHT, LET THIS COOK
FOR THREE MINUTES.
NO SHAKING, NO POKING,
NO PRODDING.
JUST LET IT BE.
OUR BIG OLD KING FILLET HAS BEEN
COOKING FOR THREE MINUTES.
IT'S TIME TO FLIP
AND MOVE TO THE NEXT PHASE OF
COOKING.
AND INTO THE HOT OVEN
FOR EXACTLY FIVE MINUTES.
HOW CAN I BE SO SURE ABOUT
THE TIME?
WELL, BECAUSE I'VE GOT
ONE OF THESE IN HERE.
I'M SURE THAT YOU'VE GOT ONE
IN YOUR OVEN TOO.
NO? WE BETTER HAVE A TALK.
LISTEN, IF YOU THINK THAT
FLASHING LIGHT ON THE FRONT OF
YOUR OVEN,
OR THE NUMBER ON THE LITTLE
KNOB,
IS A TRUTHFUL REPRESENTATION OF
WHAT'S GOING ON IN THAT BOX,
I GOT NEWS FOR YA --
OVENS LIE.
OR AT THE VERY LEAST,
THEY TELL YOU WHAT THEY THINK
YOU WANT TO HEAR.
BUT SEE, THERE ARE SO MANY
FACTORS,
THE SIZE AND SHAPE OF THE OVEN,
WHERE THE HEATING ELEMENTS ARE,
WHERE THE FOOD IS,
AND HOW MUCH FOOD IS IN THERE,
ALL EFFECT THE ACTUAL HEAT
SITUATION GOING ON IN THERE.
SO IN OTHER WORDS,
YOU CAN'T REALLY TRUST IT.
BUT YOU CAN SPY ON IT,
AND THAT HELPS.
NOW BASICALLY THERE ARE TWO
DIFFERENT TYPES OF THERMOMETER
THAT ARE DESIGNED TO RESIDE
IN THERE 24/7.
THERE ARE ROUND DIALS
AND THEY ARE ALWAYS ARMED WITH
A LITTLE COIL IN THE BACK
INSIDE,
AND THAT COIL IS MADE OUT OF
TWO DIFFERENT KINDS OF METAL
THAT ARE LAMINATED TOGETHER.
AND THEY EXPAND AND CONTRACT
AT DIFFERENT RATES.
AND WHAT THAT MEANS IS
AS THE OVEN GETS HOTTER OR
COOLER,
THIS COIL OPENS UP OR CLOSES
AND THAT MOVES THE DIAL.
THEY'RE EASY TO READ,
THEY'RE CHEAP,
AND... ALMOST COMPLETELY
UNRELIABLE.
WHAT I DEPEND ON ARE
OLD-FASHIONED BULB STYLE
THERMOMETERS.
LIKE THIS.
SOME OF THEM STILL ACTUALLY
HAVE MERCURY IN THEM,
AND OTHERS HAVE A DYE,
DYED ALCOHOL ACTUALLY,
THAT'S A LITTLE EASIER TO READ
THAN THE MERCURY.
THIS MODEL IS MADE TO HANG
ON A RACK, VERY CONVENIENT.
IF YOU HAVE A FLAT BOTTOMED
OVEN,
YOU MIGHT WANT ONE OF THESE
STAND MODELS.
WHATEVER YOU DO,
GO FOR SOMETHING
THAT'S VERY, VERY EASY TO READ.
AND POSITION IT HALFWAY BETWEEN
THE WALL AND THE CENTER OF
THE OVEN.
(timer beeping)
I STILL DON'T TRUST IT.
ALL RIGHT, TIME TO EXTRACT.
WE WILL GET THIS OUT OF THE PAN
AND ONTO A CLEAN PLATE.
IT'S ALSO COOL, WHICH IS
IMPORTANT.
WE STILL NEED TO REST OF COURSE,
SO WE'LL COVER WITH FOIL.
BUT THIS TIME GO WITH
5 TO 10 MINUTES.
WELL, AS YOU CAN SEE,
THE KING IS WELL RESTED.
DARN DELICIOUS STUFF,
I'LL TELL YA.
CRISPY BROWN ON THE OUTSIDE,
SLIGHTLY PINK IN THE CENTER,
WHICH IS EXACTLY HOW
YOU KNOW YOU WANT IT.
BY THE WAY, MY ADVICE,
IF ANYONE EVER ASKS YOU
TO PREPARE WILD SALMON
WELL DONE,
JUST FEED THEM
THE FARMED STUFF,
THEY WON'T KNOW THE DIFFERENCE.
ANYWAY, THIS IS GOOD AND GOOD
FOR YOU.
PACKED WITH THOSE
OMEGA-3 FATTY ACIDS THAT
YOUR DOCTOR HAS BEEN
NAGGING YOU ABOUT.
WHAT EXACTLY IS AN OMEGA-3?
WELL, LET'S TAKE A MICROSCOPIC
LOOK
AT THE END OF A FATTY ACID.
OKAY, JUST THE VERY END OF
THE MOLECULE.
WE KNOW THAT THIS IS AN
UNSATURATED FATTY ACID
'CAUSE IT'S GOT AT LEAST ONE
DOUBLE BOND BETWEEN
THOSE CARBONS OVER THERE.
AND YOU NOTICE THAT PUTS KIND
OF A KINK IN THE MOLECULE.
NOW IF THE LAST DOUBLE BOND
OCCURS THREE ATOMS DOWN FROM
THE END,
OR OMEGA OF THE MOLECULE,
THEN YOU'VE GOT YOURSELF AN
OMEGA-3 FATTY ACID.
AND THERE ARE A LOT OF
DIFFERENT EXAMPLES OF THOSE.
AND THERE AREN'T TOO MANY
PLACES TO GET THEM.
NOTHING IS BETTER THAN
WILD SALMON, IN FACT.
SO EAT UP AND YOU'LL KEEP
YOUR PILL PUSHER MAN AT BAY.
LET US NOW CONTEMPLATE
THIS LUSCIOUS LOOKING SIDE OF
SOCKEYE.
NOW TECHNICALLY IT IS
THIN ENOUGH TO SAUTE
BUT I'D HAVE TO CUT IT
INTO SEVERAL PIECES
TO FIT IT INTO A PAN.
AND YOU KNOW,
I'D REALLY LIKE TO SERVE IT
IN TACT.
NOW THE GRILL WOULD BE
AN OPTION.
BUT ONCE THE FAT IN THERE WARMS
AND STARTS TO RENDER OUT,
FLAME UPS WOULD BE INEVITABLE.
AND AT $15-PLUS A POUND,
I REALLY DON'T WANT TO
FACE THAT PARTICULAR TYPE
OF FIRE.
AND OF COURSE, THERE'S TURNING,
ALWAYS TREACHEROUS WITH
THIS SIZE AND SHAPE.
LUCKILY, MOST OVENS HAVE
A BROILER,
WHICH IS NOTHING BUT A GRILL
TURNED UPSIDE DOWN.
AND SINCE WE CAN CONTROL
THE DISTANCE
BETWEEN THE HEAT AND THE FISH,
WE CAN ENSURE PERFECT DONENESS
WITHOUT HAVING TO FLIP AT ALL.
AND THAT OPENS UP SOME
INTERESTING
FLAVOR AUGMENTATION OPTIONS.
GRAB YOUR FOOD PROCESSOR,
AND IF YOU'VE GOT A MINI
WORK BOWL,
YOU MIGHT WANT TO INSERT THAT.
NOW INTO THAT GOES 1/3 CUP
OF DARK BROWN SUGAR.
2 TABLESPOONS OF LEMON ZEST.
AND YES, THAT NEEDS TO BE FRESH.
YOU'LL ALSO NEED SOME SALT,
1 1/2 TEASPOONS.
KOSHER SHOULD DO THE TRICK.
AND FINALLY, BLACK PEPPER,
WHICH I LIKE A LOT WITH SALMON.
1/2 TEASPOON WILL DO.
THERE, NOW JUST BUZZ THAT
UNTIL IT IS THOROUGHLY COMBINED.
THERE.
NOW YOU'RE GONNA WANT TO
PUT YOUR FISH OUT ONTO SOME
FOIL ON TOP OF A PAN
BECAUSE WHEN THE SUGAR MELTS
IT'S GONNA STICK A BIT.
AND THEN JUST SMOOTH ON
THAT MIXTURE.
PAT IT ON,
DON'T PUSH DOWN TO HARD.
THIS IS GONNA NEED TO
JUST SIT AT ROOM TEMPERATURE
FOR 45 MINUTES.
NOW POSITION YOUR BROILER RACK
SO THE SALMON WILL BE 3 INCHES
FROM THE HEAT.
CRANK YOUR BROILER TO ITS
HIGHEST SETTING
AND WAIT FOR 2 MINUTES.
THEN SLIDE IN YOUR FISH
FOR 6 TO 8 MINUTES
OR UNTIL THE EXTERIOR IS
GOLDEN BROWN AND DELICIOUS
AND THE DEEPEST PART OF
THE INTERIOR
TEMPS AT ABOUT 131 DEGREES.
GIVE OR TAKE A DEGREE OR TWO.
ALL RIGHT, TIME IS UP
AND THE FISH LOOKS GOOD.
NOW WE DO NEED TO REST,
BUT BECAUSE I DON'T WANT THAT
CRUST TO GET GUMMY FROM STEAM,
I'M GONNA LEAVE IT UNCOVERED
FOR FIVE TO TEN MINUTES.
I'LL BE BACK.
AS FOR SERVING, I SAY...
KEEP IT SIMPLE.
ALL SIDES ARE COMPLETELY
OPTIONAL.
HECK, I SAY THE FORK'S
EVEN OPTIONAL.
DELICIOUS,
IT'S LIKE A CREME BRULEE...
ONLY LEMONY AND SALMONY.
BUT WITH JUST AS MUCH DELICIOUS
FLAVOR.
I HOPE THAT WE'VE GIVEN YOU
THE CONFIDENCE
AND THE TECHNIQUES
TO HELP YOU FACE
THE WILD SALMON.
THE BEST $20 PER POUND
YOU'LL EVER TASTE.
JUST REMEMBER,
BUY QUALITY, STORE IT PROPERLY,
AND ABOVE ALL,
ALL TOGETHER NOW,
PRIMUM NON NOCERE!
NEXT TIME, MAYBE WE'LL TACKLE
SOMETHING A LITTLE BIGGER.
SEE YA NEXT TIME.
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