Good Eats (1999–2012): Season 12, Episode 10 - Switched on Baklava - full transcript
Alton tames finicky phyllo dough to create baklava.
GOOD EVENING, AND WELCOME AGAIN
TO THE EVER-SWELLING MENAGERIE
OF MALEFICENT COMESTIBLES
KNOWN AS THE FOOD GALLERY.
TONIGHT WE STROLL
A PECULIAR HALL
WHICH HOUSES FOODS MUCH FEARED
NOT FOR THEIR FLAVORS,
BUT FOR THE STRUGGLES REQUIRED
TO PUT THEM TO PLATE.
THE DREADED DESSERTS ARE HERE,
SUCH AS THE CONFOUNDINGLY
CONTRADICTORY BAKED ALASKA,
THE TEMPESTUOUSLY TEMPERAMENTAL
TARTE TATIN
AND THEN, OF COURSE,
THERE'S MY FAVORITE.
BEHOLD THE NOTORIOUS BAKLAVA,
A SEEMINGLY
IMPOSSIBLE AMALGAMATION
OF NUTS, SYRUP AND PHYLLO DOUGH.
YES, PHYLLO.
MANY MODERN COOKS WON'T ALLOW
THIS DANGEROUSLY FINICKY DOUGH
INTO THE HOUSE
FOR FEAR OF FINDING
IN IT'S UNFURLING PAGES
OF CRACKLING, CRINKLING HORROR
A FOE INSURMOUNTABLE
AND INEDIBLE.
BUT I WOULD ARGUE
THAT PHYLLO'S NASTY REPUTATION
HAS BEEN FALSELY GENERATED
BY MANUFACTURERS
INTENT UPON SELLING YOU
THEIR SPANAKOPITA,
THEIR BUREKI,
THEIR BAKLAVA.
I SAY THE COOK
WHO FIGHTS THIS FEAR
WITH SOLID SCIENCE,
RIGHTEOUS TECHNIQUE
AND A HANDFUL
OF DECENT INGREDIENTS
WILL SURELY BE REWARDED
NOT JUST WITH DESSERT,
BUT WITH...
(crowd) GOOD EATS.
OKAY, UH, BEFORE WE
TAKE ONE STEP
INTO THE WONDERFUL WORLD
OF BAKLAVA,
WE'RE GONNA GET SOMETHING
STRAIGHT, OKAY?
AND IT'S THIS.
PHYLLO IS NOTHING TO FEAR.
I MEAN, LOOK AT IT.
JUST LOOK AT IT.
IT'S--IT'S BREAD.
I MEAN, YOU'RE NOT AFRAID
OF BREAD, ARE YOU?
YOU'RE NOT AFRAID OF LOAF BREAD
OR BAGUETTES OR CHALLAH
OR SOURDOUGH OR PIZZA, HUH?
OKAY, WELL, I'LL ADMIT,
PIZZA DOUGH CAN--CAN BE
A LITTLE INTIMIDATING,
BUT YOU GET THE POINT.
PHYLLO IS JUST BREAD.
SURE, IT'S AS THIN AS A PAGE
FROM THE FAMILY BIBLE,
BUT IT'S STILL JUST BREAD.
LOOK, IF PHYLLO'S GOTTEN
A BAD RAP,
IT'S BECAUSE PEOPLE WANT
TO FUSS OVER IT ALL THE TIME,
AND WE'RE NOT GONNA
DO ANY FUSSING, OKAY?
PHYLLO--BREAD--NOT SCARY--
NO FUSSING--DONE.
GOOD. LET'S GO SHOP.
LUCKILY FOR ALL,
NEARLY EVERY MEGA MART
FREEZER CASE IN THE COUNTRY
OFFERS UP, UH,
FROZEN BOXES OF PHYLLO.
PERSONALLY, I WOULDN'T BUY IT
ANY OTHER WAY.
BUT REMEMBER, THIS STUFF
IS VERY, VERY SENSITIVE
TO TIME AND TEMPERATURE ABUSES,
WHICH CAN LEAVE IT DRY, CRUSTY
AND CLUMPED TOGETHER.
SO I SUGGEST YOU EITHER GRAB
FROM THE VERY BACK OF THE STASH
OR SHOP AT A MARKET WHERE
A HIGH TURNOVER IS GUARANTEED,
SUCH AS A MIDDLE-EASTERN
OR A GREEK MARKET.
NOW BRING A COOLER
AND PACK IN BETWEEN
OTHER FROZEN GOODS,
LIKE ICE CREAM
AND, WELL, ICE CREAM.
NOW THIS HAS BOUGHT US
SOME TIME,
BUT WE NEED
TO GET INTO THE HOME FREEZER
AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.
NOW ALTHOUGH "PHYLLO"
MEANS "LEAF" IN GREEK,
AND MANY GREEK RESTAURANTS
FEATURE DISHES
WRAPPED IN ITS DELICATE CRUNCH,
BAKLAVA WAS ACTUALLY BORN
FAR TO THE NORTH,
WHERE ONCE UPON A TIME
NOMADIC TURKS DINED
ON UNLEAVENED GRIDDLE BREADS
CALLED YUFKA.
WHILE THE PERSIANS NEXT DOOR,
LIKE THIS CARELESS CARPET-FLYER,
SNACKED ON NUT-
AND-HONEY CONCOCTIONS.
THE WAY I FIGURE IT,
ONE DAY A ROGUE SIROCCO BLEW UP
AND SENT ONE PILOT
DOWN TO A TASTY FATE.
PARDON, BUT I BELIEVE
YOU'VE GOT
A GREAT DOSE OF YOUR GOOEYNESS
ONTO MY YUFKA.
PERHAPS IT IS YOU WHO HAS
INSERTED YOUR BREAD-I-NESS
INTO MY NUTTY GOODNESS.
MMM, THAT'S NOT BAD.
BOY, HOWDY. HEY, HAVE YOU SEEN
WHERE MY CARPET LANDED?
(growling)
(Alton) A HISTORIC DAY,
TO SAY THE LEAST.
THE NUT PHASE IS SIMPLE,
YET VERY MUCH REFLECTS
THE TRUE MIDDLE-EASTERN SOUL
OF THE DISH.
TAKE, FOR INSTANCE,
6 OUNCES OF PISTACHIOS.
THIS DRUPE WAS PROBABLY BORN
IN NORTHEASTERN IRAN
OR AFGHANISTAN
AND WAS SUCH A FAVORITE
WITH NEBUCHADNEZZAR
THAT THE BABYLONIAN KING
PLANTED THE TREES
IN HIS LEGENDARY
HANGING GARDENS.
LEGEND ALSO HOLDS
THAT THE QUEEN OF SHEBA
PASSED A LAW
DECLARING PISTACHIOS
TO BE A ROYAL FOOD,
FORBIDDEN TO COMMON FOLK.
DON'T WORRY. I'VE GOT MORE.
NOW, LET'S FAST-FORWARD
TO ROME, 30 A.D.
THE EMPEROR VITELLIUS
INTRODUCES PISTACHIOS
TO THE CITY-STATE.
AND FROM WHAT THEY SAY,
HE LOVES THEM SO MUCH,
HE FINISHES EVERY SINGLE MEAL
WITH A BIG OL' HANDFUL.
NEXT, 6 OUNCES OF WALNUTS--
ALSO FROM THE MIDDLE EAST,
ALSO FEATURED
IN THE HANGING GARDENS
OF BABYLON.
BUT IN THIS CASE, THERE IS
A STRONG GREEK CONNECTION--
THE MYSTERIOUS WOMAN
NAMED CARYA,
WHO WAS LOVED
BY THE GOD DIONYSUS.
AND WHEN SHE DIED,
HE TURNED HER INTO A TREE.
WACKY LOVERS, THOSE GREEK.
OF COURSE, THE ROMANS
ALSO DUG WALNUTS,
AS THE NAME ITSELF STEMS
FROM, UH...
"JOVIS GLANS"
OR LOOSELY TRANSLATED,
"THE ROYAL NUT OF JOVE,"
WHO WAS THE, UH, OF COURSE,
THE ROMAN VERSION OF ZEUS,
WHO I'M SURE
HAD SOME GREAT NUTS, TOO.
NOW ALTHOUGH
AMERICAN BLACK WALNUTS
WOULD DO HERE,
I PREFER THE PERSIAN VARIETIES,
BECAUSE THEY'RE MEATIER.
THEY'RE MORE AUTHENTIC
TO THE RECIPE.
AND, WELL, THEY'RE
JUST ABOUT THE ONLY
COMMERCIAL TYPE AVAILABLE.
LAST BUT NOT LEAST,
6 OUNCES OF BLANCHED ALMONDS,
AND I'VE GOT, WELL--
I'VE GOT RAW ALMONDS.
OH, WELL, WE'LL ADAPT.
AND IT COULDN'T BE SIMPLER.
SIMPLY PLACE 6 OUNCES BY WEIGHT
OF RAW ALMONDS
IN A SMALL POT,
AND COVER WITH 2 CUPS OF WATER.
TURN THE HEAT TO HIGH,
AND BRING TO A BOIL.
IT SHOULD TAKE
ABOUT THREE OR FOUR MINUTES.
WHEN THE WATER
IS GOOD AND BOILING,
KILL THE HEAT,
AND DRAIN THE ALMONDS
INTO A COLANDER.
SPRAY WITH COLD WATER
TO COOL THEM DOWN,
AND THEN SIMPLY PINCH THEM
RIGHT OUT OF THEIR SKINS--
EASY AS THAT.
USE IMMEDIATELY OR ALLOW
TO DRY AND STORE
IN AN AIRTIGHT CONTAINER
IN THE FRIDGE OR FREEZER
FOR UP TO THREE MONTHS.
¶
SPICES.
FURTHER PROOF THAT BAKLAVA
WAS BORN
ALONG THE OLD
MIDEAST TRADE ROUTES
IS THE FACT
THAT MOST CLASSIC RECIPES
CALL FOR BOTH CINNAMON
AND ALLSPICE,
WHICH WERE VERY PRECIOUS
COMMODITIES BACK IN THOSE DAYS.
NOW WE WOULD NEVER, EVER REACH
FOR DRIED,
PRE-GROUND MEGA MART SPICES
FOR A DISH LIKE THIS,
WOULD WE?
ESPECIALLY WHEN GRINDING
OUR OWN IS EASY.
THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE
OF ALLSPICE.
THAT IS
BECAUSE THE LITTLE BERRIES
OF PIMENTA OFFICINALIS
ARE VERY REGULAR IN SHAPE
AND SIZE,
SO WE'LL SIMPLY COUNT OUT
15 OF THESE GUYS
WH TE GO WO THE GRINDER.
NOW CINNAMON'S
A LITTLE TRICKIER.
I MEAN, SURE, YOU COULD
GRAB ONE OF THESE
AND SAY, "HEY, I'VE GOT
MYSELF WHOLE CINNAMON."
THE PROBLEM IS,
MOST OF WHAT IS SOLD
AS CINNAMON IN THIS COUNTRY--
SHORT, THICK, HEAVILY CURLED
DARK PIECES LIKE THIS--
ARE ACTUALLY CINNAMOMUM CASSIA,
OKAY, WHICH IS VERY, VERY HARSH
IN FLAVOR
AND AROMA--
KIND OF A SINGLE-NOTE PERFUME,
NOT COMPLEX, JUST LOUD.
WHAT WE WANT FOR THIS DISH
IS TRUE CINNAMON.
CINNAMOMUM ZEYLANICUM, OKAY,
AND THAT GENERALLY COMES
IN QUILLS LIKE THIS.
YOU'LL NOTICE
THAT IT'S LIGHTER IN COLOR
THAN CASSIA, OKAY?
ALWAYS LIGHTER.
YOU CAN ALSO GET IT
FROM VIET NAM
IN THE LARGER ECONOMY SIZE.
THIS IS TAKEN
FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE TREE.
OR IF YOU DROP OFF
IN INDONESIA SOME PLACE,
YOU CAN GET ONE SUITABLE
FOR MAKING A DUGOUT CANOE.
BUT YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO THAT.
JUST MAKE SURE WHEN YOU GO
TO YOUR LOCAL SPICE VENDOR,
YOU LOOK FOR THE TRUE CINNAMON
FOR THIS DISH.
TO THE GRINDER!
¶
GOOD. NOW THE NEXT PHASE
IS THE SPRITZ,
AND FOR THAT WE NEED
JUST A GOOD,
CLEAN SPRITZ BOTTLE--
POLYCARBONATE IS MY CHOICE--
WITH A 1/4 OF A CUP
OF CLEAN WATER
AND A TEASPOON OF ROSE WATER.
AW, THANK YOU, THING.
THEY'RE LOVELY,
BUT I SAID "ROSE WATER."
ACTUALLY, ROSE WATER
IS A BYPRODUCT
OF DISTILLING ROSE OIL,
WHICH IS USED IN PERFUMES. YECH.
THE HIGHLY FLORAL WATER IS USED
AS A FINISHING TOUCH
IN MANY A MIDDLE-EASTERN DISH,
SUCH AS MARZIPAN,
TURKISH DELIGHT
AND, OF COURSE, BAKLAVA.
OOH, NOW TRADITIONALLY,
DAMASK ROSES ARE DISTILLED...
OH, YEAH, I USUALLY, UH--
I PICK THIS UP
AT AN INTERNATIONAL MARKET
DOWN THE STREET,
BUT--OH, WHAT THE HECK,
LET'S JUST MAKE OUR OWN.
FIRST WE'LL NEED
A REALLY BIG POT.
A CANNING KETTLE IS PERFECT
FOR THE JOB
FOR MANY REASONS
YOU'LL SEE SHORTLY.
INSIDE GOES A NICE CLEAN BRICK
RIGHT DOWN INTO THE BOTTOM
AND THEN ROSE PETALS.
WE'VE GOT ABOUT A QUART HERE.
AND BY THE WAY, YOU CAN GET
THESE REALLY CHEAP, IF NOT FREE,
FROM A FLORIST.
THEY DON'T HAVE TO BE PRETTY.
THEY JUST HAVE TO SMELL GOOD.
NEXT, THE SOLVENT--WATER--
ABOUT 1/2 A GALLON,
WHATEVER IT TAKES
TO COME RIGHT UP TO THE EDGE
OF THE BRICK.
WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT
THE PETALS ARE ALL SUBMERGED.
THERE WE GO.
AND TO CATCH THE DISTILLATE,
WE NEED A STAINLESS STEEL BOWL
RIGHT DOWN ON TOP OF THE BRICK.
AND IT NEEDS TO BE
A LITTLE BIT MORE NARROW
THAN THE KETTLE ITSELF.
THEN WE'RE GONNA
GET THE LID OF THE KETTLE,
TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN
AND FILL IT FULL OF ICE.
THAT WAY THE STEAM WILL HIT
THE LID AND OF COURSE CONDENSE
BACK DOWN INTO, UH--
INTO THE BOWL.
NOW IN ABOUT AN HOUR,
WE WILL HAVE
SOMEWHERE BETWEEN A CUP
AND A PINT
OF FRESH, DELICIOUS, FRAGRANT
ROSE WATER.
NOW WOULD PURCHASING A BOTTLE
BE EASIER?
ABSOLUTELY.
AND JUST MAKE SURE
THAT WHAT YOU PURCHASE
IS INDEED 100% PURE ROSE WATER.
OTHERWISE, YOU'RE GONNA
HAVE TO DO THIS.
OKAY, SO THE ICE HAS MELTED.
SO I'M JUST GONNA
KIND OF CAREFULLY POUR THAT
DOWN THE SIDE OF THE POT,
MAKING SURE NOT TO GET IT,
OF COURSE,
IN THE STAINLESS STEEL BOWL.
AND THERE WE HAVE
OUR ROSE WATER.
REMEMBER, FOR OUR ENTIRE RECIPE,
WE'LL ONLY NEED
1 LITTLE TEASPOON.
IT'S STRONG STUFF, YOU KNOW.
I HAVE SEEN HUNDREDS OF RECIPES
CALL FOR SIMPLY MELTING BUTTER
AND BRUSHING IT
ONTO THE PHYLLO LAYERS.
BUT LET US KEEP IN MIND
THAT THE AVERAGE STICK OF BUTTER
IS 8% WATER BY WEIGHT.
AND THAT IS A LOT OF WETNESS
TO MAKE THOSE PHYLLO LAYERS
GET STICKY.
SO WE ARE
GOING TO CLARIFY BUTTER.
WE'LL NEED 8 OUNCES--2 STICKS.
SO OUR BUTTER GOES
INTO A SMALL SAUCEPAN
OVER HIGH HEAT.
AND MELT IT
UNTIL IT ACTUALLY BOILS,
AND THAT IS, OF COURSE,
THE WATER PERCENTAGE
COOKING OUT.
THEN SLOWLY START TURNING
THE TEMPERATURE DOWN
UNTIL THE MILK SOLIDS
START TO SEPARATE OUT.
EVENTUALLY, THEY'LL SINK
AND TURN A LITTLE BIT BROWN,
WHICH I LIKE,
ALTHOUGH TECHNICALLY,
YOU COULD CALL THAT GHEE.
BUT THAT'S ANOTHER SHOW.
ALL RIGHT, I'M GONNA
LET THIS COOL
FOR A FEW MINUTES BEFORE USING.
I SHOULD MENTION
THAT TIGHTLY SEALED
AND REFRIGERATED
CLARIFIED BUTTER
WILL KEEP
FOR ABOUT A HUNDRED YEARS,
GIVE OR TAKE A MONTH OR TWO.
NOW EVERYTHING'S DONE.
TIME TO PUT TOGETHER
OUR ASSEMBLY AREA.
WELL, IT APPEARS
THAT OUR STATION IS IN ORDER.
WE HAVE OUR NUT-
AND-SPICE MIXTURE HERE.
OUR CLARIFIED BUTTER IS
STANDING BY NICE AND COOL.
OUR ROSE WATER SPRITZ HERE,
A 9x13 PAN FOR CONSTRUCTION
AND A NICE BIG, CLEAN AREA
FOR OUR PHYLLO,
PLUS A KNIFE TO TRIM IT WITH.
ALL WE NEED NOW
IS A BASTING BRUSH.
¶
MOST COOKS DON'T THINK
TOO MUCH ABOUT BASTING
OR BASTING BRUSHES,
DESPITE THE EFFECT
THAT THEY CAN HAVE
ON THE FINAL APPEARANCE, FLAVOR
AND TEXTURE OF MANY FOODS.
NOW LET US CONSIDER THE OPTIONS,
BEGINNING WITH SHAPES.
ALL RIGHT, NOW ROUND BRUSHES
ARE IDEAL FOR
DISTRIBUTING SHORTENING
INTO NOOKS
AND CRANNIES OF PANS,
SAY, A BUNDT PAN
OR AN INTRICATE KUGELHOPF.
IT'S A BLUNT TOOL,
MEANT TO BE JABBED, POKED,
RATHER THAN BRUSHED.
FOR BRUSHING,
WE HAVE THE CLASSIC
FLAT PAINTBRUSH STYLE,
WHICH COMES IN VARYING
WIDTHS AND LENGTHS,
AND LIKE THE HARDWARE STORE
MODELS THAT THEY RESEMBLE,
THEY SMOOTHLY APPLY LOW
TO MEDIUM VISCOSITY LIQUIDS--
YOU KNOW, THINGS LIKE MELTED
BUTTER AND BARBEQUE SAUCE.
NOW THE OTHER SHAPE
I CALL A MOP,
WHICH IS MEANT TO SLOP AND PLOP
BARBEQUE SAUCE AND THE LIKE
ONTO BIG OLD HUNKS
OF HOG AND OTHER CRITTERS.
NOT EXACTLY PRECISION TOOLS.
NOW LET'S
TALK ABOUT MATERIALS.
NATURAL BRISTLES,
OR HOGS' HAIR BRUSHES,
THEY LOAD WELL.
THAT MEANS THAT THEY
SOAK UP A LOT OF MATERIAL,
AND THEY NEATLY APPLY A WIDE
RANGE OF VISCOSITY LIQUIDS,
BUT THEY TEND
TO BE HARD TO WASH.
THEY CAN PICK UP
AND HOLD STRANGE FLAVORS,
AND AS THEY AGE
THEY START DROPPING BRISTLES
INTO YOUR FOOD,
WHICH IS NEVER GOOD EATS.
NOW NYLON BRISTLES CAN LOAD UP
VERY, VERY--WELL, BADLY.
THEY'RE VULNERABLE
TO HEAT DAMAGE.
THEY'RE A PAIN TO CLEAN,
AND NEAR AS I CAN TELL,
BESIDES BEING CHEAP,
THERE ARE REALLY NO PROS
TO NYLON BRUSHES.
NOW IF YOU HANG OUT
IN A COOKING EMPORIUM
OR HAVE OVER
THE LAST FEW YEARS,
YOU'VE NO DOUBT NOTICED
SILICONE BASTING BRUSHES
LIKE THIS AND LIKE THIS
AND LIKE THIS.
THEY COMPLETELY MONOPOLIZED
THE RACKS OF STORES NOW
BECAUSE OF THEIR GOOFY SHAPES
AND THEIR CANDY COLOR SCHEMES.
NOW SILICONE IS EASY TO CLEAN.
IT'S DISHWASHER SAFE,
CAN TOLERATE TEMPERATURES
IN EXCESS OF 600 DEGREES,
WHICH MEANS THEY CAN STICK
THEIR LITTLE FLOPPY HEADS
WAY DOWN INTO THE GRILL,
AND, OF COURSE,
THEY'RE PERFECT FOR, YOU KNOW,
LIKE TICKLING THINGS.
BUT SILICONE LOADS LOUSY,
AND THAT MEANS MAKING
A LOT OF DRIPPY TRIPS
BACK AND FORTH, YOU KNOW,
IF YOU GET MY DRIFT.
NOW I WOULD HAVE GIVEN UP
ON THESE THINGS ENTIRELY
IF IT WERE NOT
FOR ONE SMALL ADVANCE.
CERTAIN MODELS NOW SPORT
THESE KIND OF LITTLE
FLAT PADDLE AREAS
RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE
OF THE BRISTLES, OKAY?
AND IT'S FULL OF HOLES,
AND WHEN DIPPED IN SOMETHING
LIKE BUTTER, THEY FILL UP,
KIND OF LIKE THE BUBBLE WANDS
YOU USED TO PLAY WITH AS A KID.
NOW I STILL KEEP AROUND
A FEW OTHER BRUSHES
FOR VARIOUS TASKS,
BUT FOR BUTTER,
THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE.
THERE, I THINK
THAT'S ABOUT FINISHED.
HA-HA-HA-HA.
TIME NOW TO FACE THE PHYLLO.
OKAY, ONE WHOLE PACKAGE,
A POUND,
STRAIGHT FROM THE FREEZER
INTO THE MICROWAVE
ON HIGH FOR 60 SECONDS.
I KNOW, MOST RECIPES CALL
FOR THAWING IN THE FRIDGE,
BUT THAT INEVITABLY
MEANS MOISTURE BUILDUP,
AND MOISTURE LEADS
TO GUMMY PHYLLO,
WHICH IS NIGH
ON IMPOSSIBLE TO WORK WITH.
TRUST ME ON THIS!
NOW THE PHYLLO IS GONNA BE
A LOT EASIER TO WORK WITH
IF IT'S THE RIGHT SIZE,
SO JUST LAY YOUR
PAN ON ACROSS THE STACK,
AND USE IT AS A GUIDE.
TRIM WITH A SHARP KNIFE.
THERE. NOW TRADITIONALLY,
A MOIST TOWEL IS LAID
ACROSS THE PHYLLO STACK
TO KEEP IT FROM DRYING OUT.
HOGWASH, I SAY!
JUST WORK QUICKLY,
AND YOU'RE NOT GONNA HAVE
ANY TROUBLES WHATSOEVER.
OKAY, FIRST STEP--
BRUSH THE PAN WITH BUTTER.
AND MAKE SURE YOU GET
THE CORNERS. THAT'S IMPORTANT.
THERE, NOW WE'LL
BRING ON THE FIRST SHEET.
YOU'LL NOTICE THAT
I LIKE TO LIFT AWAY,
BRING IT OVER AND THEN
LAY IT DOWN TOWARDS ME.
IT'S ALMOST LIKE, YOU KNOW, I'M
PUTTING A NEW SHEET ON A BED.
AND NOW WE'LL BUTTER THE TOP.
NOW I LIKE TO JUST
KIND OF SPRINKLE
THE BUTTER AROUND FIRST
AND THEN SMOOTH IT OUT,
SPREAD IT, ALWAYS
MOVING TOWARDS THE SIDES,
SO I DON'T FOLD IT UP ON ITSELF.
NOW WE REPEAT THIS
WITH NINE MORE SHEETS,
WITH BUTTER BETWEEN
EACH OF THEM.
THAT'S A TOTAL OF TEN.
OKAY, NOW THE FIRST
INSTALLMENT OF NUTS--
1/3 EVENLY DISTRIBUTED.
NOW YOU DON'T WANT
TO PACK 'EM DOWN,
BUT YOU DON'T WANT
AIR POCKETS EITHER.
GOOD, NOW THE SPRITZ
WITH THE ROSE WATER.
AND DON'T BE ALARMED
IF THE ROOM SUDDENLY SMELLS
LIKE YOUR GRANDMOTHER
JUST WALKED IN.
THIS IS, AFTER ALL,
THE SIGNATURE AROMA
OF OLD WOMEN EVERYWHERE.
OKAY, NOW SIX SHEETS
OF PHYLLO GO ON
JUST AS BEFORE, WITH BUTTER
BETWEEN EACH LAYER.
AHH, OKAY.
NOW A SECOND
INSTALLMENT OF NUTS
AND A SECOND SPRITZ.
IS TH WE WILL FOLLOW
WITH ANOTHER SIX SHEETS
WITH BUTTER
BETWEEN EVERY LAYER.
OKAY, THE LAST INSTALLMENT
OF NUTS GOES ON
AND THE FINAL INSTALLMENT
OF EAU DE OLD LADY.
IT TASTES GOOD THOUGH,
BELIEVE ME.
AND WE TOP THAT WITH
EIGHT SHEETS OF PHYLLO
WITH BUTTER IN BETWEEN.
SO THAT'S A TOTAL OF 30 SHEETS--
30 SHEETS ALL DAY,
EACH ONE WITH A LITTLE BIT
OF BUTTER IN BETWEEN.
ALL RIGHT,
INTO THE 350-DEGREE OVEN
FOR 30 MINUTES.
THEN WE WILL REMOVE IT,
CUT IT INTO PORTIONS
AND BAKE ANOTHER 30.
¶
(buzzing)
AHH, GOOD, EVEN BROWNING.
NOW WE CUT.
JUST USE A PLAIN
OLD PARING KNIFE FOR THIS,
NON-SERRATED, AND SAW
STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN.
DON'T WORRY ABOUT CUTTING
THROUGH EVERY BIT OF DOUGH.
WE'LL TAKE CARE OF THAT LATER.
AND DON'T WORRY
IF THE TOP LAYER SHATTERS
A LITTLE BIT AS YOU CUT.
IT'LL ALL COME
BACK TOGETHER LATER
WHEN THE SYRUP
COMES HOME TO ROOST.
AHH, THERE, NOW BACK IN,
AND WE'LL BAKE
FOR ANOTHER 30 MINUTES.
MEANWHILE, WE WILL
CONSTRUCT PHASE FOUR--
THE SYRUP.
SUGAR FROM CANE
REALLY DIDN'T MAKE IT
TO THE MIDDLE EAST
UNTIL THE 10th
OR 11th CENTURIES,
WHICH IS WHY MOST OF THE CLASSIC
DESSERTS OF THE REGION
ARE SWEETENED
EXCLUSIVELY WITH HONEY.
NOW OUR APPLICATION
WILL MAKE USE
OF 1 1/4 CUPS
OF ORANGE BLOSSOM HONEY,
BUT BECAUSE I FIND HONEY
OVERPOWERING IN LARGE AMOUNTS,
BECAUSE SUGAR-BASED SYRUPS
SET MORE SOLIDLY,
I WILL USE THE SAME AMOUNT
OF GOOD 'OL CITIZEN CANE.
SO 1 1/4 CUP EACH
HONEY AND SUGAR
GOES INTO A 4-QUART SAUCEPAN,
ALONG WITH 1 PIECE OF CINNAMON
AND A NICE PIECE OF ORANGE ZEST
AND A CUP AND A 1/4 OF WATER.
I'LL BRING THAT TO A BOIL
OVER A HIGH HEAT,
STIRRING EVERY NOW AND THEN.
AND WHEN IT GETS TO A BOIL,
LET IT STAY AT A BOIL
FOR A SOLID TEN MINUTES.
THEN REMOVE THE BITS AND PIECES,
AND USE IMMEDIATELY,
OR IF YOU LET IT COOL,
MAKE SURE YOU REHEAT IT BEFORE
ADDING IT TO THE BAKLAVA.
AHH, GOOD, EXACTLY
WHAT WE WANT TO SEE.
NOW LET THIS COOL
TO ROOM TEMPERATURE
BEFORE INTRODUCING
THE SYRUP TO THE PARTY.
COME ON.
ALL RIGHT, TWO HOURS ARE UP.
IT IS TIME
TO RE-PERFORATE OUR BAKLAVA.
BEFORE YOU DO THIS, IF YOU MADE
YOUR SYRUP AHEAD OF TIME,
GO AHEAD AND PUT SOME HEAT TO IT
SO IT'LL BE NICE AND STEAMY
WHEN IT GOES ONTO THE DOUGH.
SO LET'S JUST RETRACE
OUR STEPS, SHALL WE?
¶
NOW I REALIZE AT THIS POINT,
THAT IT LOOKS LIKE THERE'S
JUST WAY TOO MUCH SYRUP,
BUT BELIEVE ME,
OVER THE NEXT EIGHT HOURS,
IT WILL ALL BE ABSORBED.
YEAH, EIGHT HOURS.
WELL, LOOK, I SAID IT WAS GOOD,
AND I SAID IT WAS EASY.
I NEVER SAID IT WAS FAST.
¶
AND SO IN THE END,
WE SEE THAT WHEN ARMED
WITH A LITTLE UNDERSTANDING,
THE FEAR FALLS AWAY,
AND WE CAN SEE BAKLAVA
FOR WHAT IT REALLY IS--
FUN, EASY TO BAKE,
A SNAP TO BUILD,
A DELICIOUS PIECE
OF HISTORY ON A PLATE,
WHICH MAY BE WORTHY
OF PLACEMENT IN A MUSEUM,
BUT ALSO DESERVING
OF A PLACE IN OUR KITCHENS,
NOT TO MENTION ON "GOOD EATS."
GOOD NIGHT.
Closed Captions provided
by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by
Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
TO THE EVER-SWELLING MENAGERIE
OF MALEFICENT COMESTIBLES
KNOWN AS THE FOOD GALLERY.
TONIGHT WE STROLL
A PECULIAR HALL
WHICH HOUSES FOODS MUCH FEARED
NOT FOR THEIR FLAVORS,
BUT FOR THE STRUGGLES REQUIRED
TO PUT THEM TO PLATE.
THE DREADED DESSERTS ARE HERE,
SUCH AS THE CONFOUNDINGLY
CONTRADICTORY BAKED ALASKA,
THE TEMPESTUOUSLY TEMPERAMENTAL
TARTE TATIN
AND THEN, OF COURSE,
THERE'S MY FAVORITE.
BEHOLD THE NOTORIOUS BAKLAVA,
A SEEMINGLY
IMPOSSIBLE AMALGAMATION
OF NUTS, SYRUP AND PHYLLO DOUGH.
YES, PHYLLO.
MANY MODERN COOKS WON'T ALLOW
THIS DANGEROUSLY FINICKY DOUGH
INTO THE HOUSE
FOR FEAR OF FINDING
IN IT'S UNFURLING PAGES
OF CRACKLING, CRINKLING HORROR
A FOE INSURMOUNTABLE
AND INEDIBLE.
BUT I WOULD ARGUE
THAT PHYLLO'S NASTY REPUTATION
HAS BEEN FALSELY GENERATED
BY MANUFACTURERS
INTENT UPON SELLING YOU
THEIR SPANAKOPITA,
THEIR BUREKI,
THEIR BAKLAVA.
I SAY THE COOK
WHO FIGHTS THIS FEAR
WITH SOLID SCIENCE,
RIGHTEOUS TECHNIQUE
AND A HANDFUL
OF DECENT INGREDIENTS
WILL SURELY BE REWARDED
NOT JUST WITH DESSERT,
BUT WITH...
(crowd) GOOD EATS.
OKAY, UH, BEFORE WE
TAKE ONE STEP
INTO THE WONDERFUL WORLD
OF BAKLAVA,
WE'RE GONNA GET SOMETHING
STRAIGHT, OKAY?
AND IT'S THIS.
PHYLLO IS NOTHING TO FEAR.
I MEAN, LOOK AT IT.
JUST LOOK AT IT.
IT'S--IT'S BREAD.
I MEAN, YOU'RE NOT AFRAID
OF BREAD, ARE YOU?
YOU'RE NOT AFRAID OF LOAF BREAD
OR BAGUETTES OR CHALLAH
OR SOURDOUGH OR PIZZA, HUH?
OKAY, WELL, I'LL ADMIT,
PIZZA DOUGH CAN--CAN BE
A LITTLE INTIMIDATING,
BUT YOU GET THE POINT.
PHYLLO IS JUST BREAD.
SURE, IT'S AS THIN AS A PAGE
FROM THE FAMILY BIBLE,
BUT IT'S STILL JUST BREAD.
LOOK, IF PHYLLO'S GOTTEN
A BAD RAP,
IT'S BECAUSE PEOPLE WANT
TO FUSS OVER IT ALL THE TIME,
AND WE'RE NOT GONNA
DO ANY FUSSING, OKAY?
PHYLLO--BREAD--NOT SCARY--
NO FUSSING--DONE.
GOOD. LET'S GO SHOP.
LUCKILY FOR ALL,
NEARLY EVERY MEGA MART
FREEZER CASE IN THE COUNTRY
OFFERS UP, UH,
FROZEN BOXES OF PHYLLO.
PERSONALLY, I WOULDN'T BUY IT
ANY OTHER WAY.
BUT REMEMBER, THIS STUFF
IS VERY, VERY SENSITIVE
TO TIME AND TEMPERATURE ABUSES,
WHICH CAN LEAVE IT DRY, CRUSTY
AND CLUMPED TOGETHER.
SO I SUGGEST YOU EITHER GRAB
FROM THE VERY BACK OF THE STASH
OR SHOP AT A MARKET WHERE
A HIGH TURNOVER IS GUARANTEED,
SUCH AS A MIDDLE-EASTERN
OR A GREEK MARKET.
NOW BRING A COOLER
AND PACK IN BETWEEN
OTHER FROZEN GOODS,
LIKE ICE CREAM
AND, WELL, ICE CREAM.
NOW THIS HAS BOUGHT US
SOME TIME,
BUT WE NEED
TO GET INTO THE HOME FREEZER
AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.
NOW ALTHOUGH "PHYLLO"
MEANS "LEAF" IN GREEK,
AND MANY GREEK RESTAURANTS
FEATURE DISHES
WRAPPED IN ITS DELICATE CRUNCH,
BAKLAVA WAS ACTUALLY BORN
FAR TO THE NORTH,
WHERE ONCE UPON A TIME
NOMADIC TURKS DINED
ON UNLEAVENED GRIDDLE BREADS
CALLED YUFKA.
WHILE THE PERSIANS NEXT DOOR,
LIKE THIS CARELESS CARPET-FLYER,
SNACKED ON NUT-
AND-HONEY CONCOCTIONS.
THE WAY I FIGURE IT,
ONE DAY A ROGUE SIROCCO BLEW UP
AND SENT ONE PILOT
DOWN TO A TASTY FATE.
PARDON, BUT I BELIEVE
YOU'VE GOT
A GREAT DOSE OF YOUR GOOEYNESS
ONTO MY YUFKA.
PERHAPS IT IS YOU WHO HAS
INSERTED YOUR BREAD-I-NESS
INTO MY NUTTY GOODNESS.
MMM, THAT'S NOT BAD.
BOY, HOWDY. HEY, HAVE YOU SEEN
WHERE MY CARPET LANDED?
(growling)
(Alton) A HISTORIC DAY,
TO SAY THE LEAST.
THE NUT PHASE IS SIMPLE,
YET VERY MUCH REFLECTS
THE TRUE MIDDLE-EASTERN SOUL
OF THE DISH.
TAKE, FOR INSTANCE,
6 OUNCES OF PISTACHIOS.
THIS DRUPE WAS PROBABLY BORN
IN NORTHEASTERN IRAN
OR AFGHANISTAN
AND WAS SUCH A FAVORITE
WITH NEBUCHADNEZZAR
THAT THE BABYLONIAN KING
PLANTED THE TREES
IN HIS LEGENDARY
HANGING GARDENS.
LEGEND ALSO HOLDS
THAT THE QUEEN OF SHEBA
PASSED A LAW
DECLARING PISTACHIOS
TO BE A ROYAL FOOD,
FORBIDDEN TO COMMON FOLK.
DON'T WORRY. I'VE GOT MORE.
NOW, LET'S FAST-FORWARD
TO ROME, 30 A.D.
THE EMPEROR VITELLIUS
INTRODUCES PISTACHIOS
TO THE CITY-STATE.
AND FROM WHAT THEY SAY,
HE LOVES THEM SO MUCH,
HE FINISHES EVERY SINGLE MEAL
WITH A BIG OL' HANDFUL.
NEXT, 6 OUNCES OF WALNUTS--
ALSO FROM THE MIDDLE EAST,
ALSO FEATURED
IN THE HANGING GARDENS
OF BABYLON.
BUT IN THIS CASE, THERE IS
A STRONG GREEK CONNECTION--
THE MYSTERIOUS WOMAN
NAMED CARYA,
WHO WAS LOVED
BY THE GOD DIONYSUS.
AND WHEN SHE DIED,
HE TURNED HER INTO A TREE.
WACKY LOVERS, THOSE GREEK.
OF COURSE, THE ROMANS
ALSO DUG WALNUTS,
AS THE NAME ITSELF STEMS
FROM, UH...
"JOVIS GLANS"
OR LOOSELY TRANSLATED,
"THE ROYAL NUT OF JOVE,"
WHO WAS THE, UH, OF COURSE,
THE ROMAN VERSION OF ZEUS,
WHO I'M SURE
HAD SOME GREAT NUTS, TOO.
NOW ALTHOUGH
AMERICAN BLACK WALNUTS
WOULD DO HERE,
I PREFER THE PERSIAN VARIETIES,
BECAUSE THEY'RE MEATIER.
THEY'RE MORE AUTHENTIC
TO THE RECIPE.
AND, WELL, THEY'RE
JUST ABOUT THE ONLY
COMMERCIAL TYPE AVAILABLE.
LAST BUT NOT LEAST,
6 OUNCES OF BLANCHED ALMONDS,
AND I'VE GOT, WELL--
I'VE GOT RAW ALMONDS.
OH, WELL, WE'LL ADAPT.
AND IT COULDN'T BE SIMPLER.
SIMPLY PLACE 6 OUNCES BY WEIGHT
OF RAW ALMONDS
IN A SMALL POT,
AND COVER WITH 2 CUPS OF WATER.
TURN THE HEAT TO HIGH,
AND BRING TO A BOIL.
IT SHOULD TAKE
ABOUT THREE OR FOUR MINUTES.
WHEN THE WATER
IS GOOD AND BOILING,
KILL THE HEAT,
AND DRAIN THE ALMONDS
INTO A COLANDER.
SPRAY WITH COLD WATER
TO COOL THEM DOWN,
AND THEN SIMPLY PINCH THEM
RIGHT OUT OF THEIR SKINS--
EASY AS THAT.
USE IMMEDIATELY OR ALLOW
TO DRY AND STORE
IN AN AIRTIGHT CONTAINER
IN THE FRIDGE OR FREEZER
FOR UP TO THREE MONTHS.
¶
SPICES.
FURTHER PROOF THAT BAKLAVA
WAS BORN
ALONG THE OLD
MIDEAST TRADE ROUTES
IS THE FACT
THAT MOST CLASSIC RECIPES
CALL FOR BOTH CINNAMON
AND ALLSPICE,
WHICH WERE VERY PRECIOUS
COMMODITIES BACK IN THOSE DAYS.
NOW WE WOULD NEVER, EVER REACH
FOR DRIED,
PRE-GROUND MEGA MART SPICES
FOR A DISH LIKE THIS,
WOULD WE?
ESPECIALLY WHEN GRINDING
OUR OWN IS EASY.
THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE
OF ALLSPICE.
THAT IS
BECAUSE THE LITTLE BERRIES
OF PIMENTA OFFICINALIS
ARE VERY REGULAR IN SHAPE
AND SIZE,
SO WE'LL SIMPLY COUNT OUT
15 OF THESE GUYS
WH TE GO WO THE GRINDER.
NOW CINNAMON'S
A LITTLE TRICKIER.
I MEAN, SURE, YOU COULD
GRAB ONE OF THESE
AND SAY, "HEY, I'VE GOT
MYSELF WHOLE CINNAMON."
THE PROBLEM IS,
MOST OF WHAT IS SOLD
AS CINNAMON IN THIS COUNTRY--
SHORT, THICK, HEAVILY CURLED
DARK PIECES LIKE THIS--
ARE ACTUALLY CINNAMOMUM CASSIA,
OKAY, WHICH IS VERY, VERY HARSH
IN FLAVOR
AND AROMA--
KIND OF A SINGLE-NOTE PERFUME,
NOT COMPLEX, JUST LOUD.
WHAT WE WANT FOR THIS DISH
IS TRUE CINNAMON.
CINNAMOMUM ZEYLANICUM, OKAY,
AND THAT GENERALLY COMES
IN QUILLS LIKE THIS.
YOU'LL NOTICE
THAT IT'S LIGHTER IN COLOR
THAN CASSIA, OKAY?
ALWAYS LIGHTER.
YOU CAN ALSO GET IT
FROM VIET NAM
IN THE LARGER ECONOMY SIZE.
THIS IS TAKEN
FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE TREE.
OR IF YOU DROP OFF
IN INDONESIA SOME PLACE,
YOU CAN GET ONE SUITABLE
FOR MAKING A DUGOUT CANOE.
BUT YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO THAT.
JUST MAKE SURE WHEN YOU GO
TO YOUR LOCAL SPICE VENDOR,
YOU LOOK FOR THE TRUE CINNAMON
FOR THIS DISH.
TO THE GRINDER!
¶
GOOD. NOW THE NEXT PHASE
IS THE SPRITZ,
AND FOR THAT WE NEED
JUST A GOOD,
CLEAN SPRITZ BOTTLE--
POLYCARBONATE IS MY CHOICE--
WITH A 1/4 OF A CUP
OF CLEAN WATER
AND A TEASPOON OF ROSE WATER.
AW, THANK YOU, THING.
THEY'RE LOVELY,
BUT I SAID "ROSE WATER."
ACTUALLY, ROSE WATER
IS A BYPRODUCT
OF DISTILLING ROSE OIL,
WHICH IS USED IN PERFUMES. YECH.
THE HIGHLY FLORAL WATER IS USED
AS A FINISHING TOUCH
IN MANY A MIDDLE-EASTERN DISH,
SUCH AS MARZIPAN,
TURKISH DELIGHT
AND, OF COURSE, BAKLAVA.
OOH, NOW TRADITIONALLY,
DAMASK ROSES ARE DISTILLED...
OH, YEAH, I USUALLY, UH--
I PICK THIS UP
AT AN INTERNATIONAL MARKET
DOWN THE STREET,
BUT--OH, WHAT THE HECK,
LET'S JUST MAKE OUR OWN.
FIRST WE'LL NEED
A REALLY BIG POT.
A CANNING KETTLE IS PERFECT
FOR THE JOB
FOR MANY REASONS
YOU'LL SEE SHORTLY.
INSIDE GOES A NICE CLEAN BRICK
RIGHT DOWN INTO THE BOTTOM
AND THEN ROSE PETALS.
WE'VE GOT ABOUT A QUART HERE.
AND BY THE WAY, YOU CAN GET
THESE REALLY CHEAP, IF NOT FREE,
FROM A FLORIST.
THEY DON'T HAVE TO BE PRETTY.
THEY JUST HAVE TO SMELL GOOD.
NEXT, THE SOLVENT--WATER--
ABOUT 1/2 A GALLON,
WHATEVER IT TAKES
TO COME RIGHT UP TO THE EDGE
OF THE BRICK.
WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT
THE PETALS ARE ALL SUBMERGED.
THERE WE GO.
AND TO CATCH THE DISTILLATE,
WE NEED A STAINLESS STEEL BOWL
RIGHT DOWN ON TOP OF THE BRICK.
AND IT NEEDS TO BE
A LITTLE BIT MORE NARROW
THAN THE KETTLE ITSELF.
THEN WE'RE GONNA
GET THE LID OF THE KETTLE,
TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN
AND FILL IT FULL OF ICE.
THAT WAY THE STEAM WILL HIT
THE LID AND OF COURSE CONDENSE
BACK DOWN INTO, UH--
INTO THE BOWL.
NOW IN ABOUT AN HOUR,
WE WILL HAVE
SOMEWHERE BETWEEN A CUP
AND A PINT
OF FRESH, DELICIOUS, FRAGRANT
ROSE WATER.
NOW WOULD PURCHASING A BOTTLE
BE EASIER?
ABSOLUTELY.
AND JUST MAKE SURE
THAT WHAT YOU PURCHASE
IS INDEED 100% PURE ROSE WATER.
OTHERWISE, YOU'RE GONNA
HAVE TO DO THIS.
OKAY, SO THE ICE HAS MELTED.
SO I'M JUST GONNA
KIND OF CAREFULLY POUR THAT
DOWN THE SIDE OF THE POT,
MAKING SURE NOT TO GET IT,
OF COURSE,
IN THE STAINLESS STEEL BOWL.
AND THERE WE HAVE
OUR ROSE WATER.
REMEMBER, FOR OUR ENTIRE RECIPE,
WE'LL ONLY NEED
1 LITTLE TEASPOON.
IT'S STRONG STUFF, YOU KNOW.
I HAVE SEEN HUNDREDS OF RECIPES
CALL FOR SIMPLY MELTING BUTTER
AND BRUSHING IT
ONTO THE PHYLLO LAYERS.
BUT LET US KEEP IN MIND
THAT THE AVERAGE STICK OF BUTTER
IS 8% WATER BY WEIGHT.
AND THAT IS A LOT OF WETNESS
TO MAKE THOSE PHYLLO LAYERS
GET STICKY.
SO WE ARE
GOING TO CLARIFY BUTTER.
WE'LL NEED 8 OUNCES--2 STICKS.
SO OUR BUTTER GOES
INTO A SMALL SAUCEPAN
OVER HIGH HEAT.
AND MELT IT
UNTIL IT ACTUALLY BOILS,
AND THAT IS, OF COURSE,
THE WATER PERCENTAGE
COOKING OUT.
THEN SLOWLY START TURNING
THE TEMPERATURE DOWN
UNTIL THE MILK SOLIDS
START TO SEPARATE OUT.
EVENTUALLY, THEY'LL SINK
AND TURN A LITTLE BIT BROWN,
WHICH I LIKE,
ALTHOUGH TECHNICALLY,
YOU COULD CALL THAT GHEE.
BUT THAT'S ANOTHER SHOW.
ALL RIGHT, I'M GONNA
LET THIS COOL
FOR A FEW MINUTES BEFORE USING.
I SHOULD MENTION
THAT TIGHTLY SEALED
AND REFRIGERATED
CLARIFIED BUTTER
WILL KEEP
FOR ABOUT A HUNDRED YEARS,
GIVE OR TAKE A MONTH OR TWO.
NOW EVERYTHING'S DONE.
TIME TO PUT TOGETHER
OUR ASSEMBLY AREA.
WELL, IT APPEARS
THAT OUR STATION IS IN ORDER.
WE HAVE OUR NUT-
AND-SPICE MIXTURE HERE.
OUR CLARIFIED BUTTER IS
STANDING BY NICE AND COOL.
OUR ROSE WATER SPRITZ HERE,
A 9x13 PAN FOR CONSTRUCTION
AND A NICE BIG, CLEAN AREA
FOR OUR PHYLLO,
PLUS A KNIFE TO TRIM IT WITH.
ALL WE NEED NOW
IS A BASTING BRUSH.
¶
MOST COOKS DON'T THINK
TOO MUCH ABOUT BASTING
OR BASTING BRUSHES,
DESPITE THE EFFECT
THAT THEY CAN HAVE
ON THE FINAL APPEARANCE, FLAVOR
AND TEXTURE OF MANY FOODS.
NOW LET US CONSIDER THE OPTIONS,
BEGINNING WITH SHAPES.
ALL RIGHT, NOW ROUND BRUSHES
ARE IDEAL FOR
DISTRIBUTING SHORTENING
INTO NOOKS
AND CRANNIES OF PANS,
SAY, A BUNDT PAN
OR AN INTRICATE KUGELHOPF.
IT'S A BLUNT TOOL,
MEANT TO BE JABBED, POKED,
RATHER THAN BRUSHED.
FOR BRUSHING,
WE HAVE THE CLASSIC
FLAT PAINTBRUSH STYLE,
WHICH COMES IN VARYING
WIDTHS AND LENGTHS,
AND LIKE THE HARDWARE STORE
MODELS THAT THEY RESEMBLE,
THEY SMOOTHLY APPLY LOW
TO MEDIUM VISCOSITY LIQUIDS--
YOU KNOW, THINGS LIKE MELTED
BUTTER AND BARBEQUE SAUCE.
NOW THE OTHER SHAPE
I CALL A MOP,
WHICH IS MEANT TO SLOP AND PLOP
BARBEQUE SAUCE AND THE LIKE
ONTO BIG OLD HUNKS
OF HOG AND OTHER CRITTERS.
NOT EXACTLY PRECISION TOOLS.
NOW LET'S
TALK ABOUT MATERIALS.
NATURAL BRISTLES,
OR HOGS' HAIR BRUSHES,
THEY LOAD WELL.
THAT MEANS THAT THEY
SOAK UP A LOT OF MATERIAL,
AND THEY NEATLY APPLY A WIDE
RANGE OF VISCOSITY LIQUIDS,
BUT THEY TEND
TO BE HARD TO WASH.
THEY CAN PICK UP
AND HOLD STRANGE FLAVORS,
AND AS THEY AGE
THEY START DROPPING BRISTLES
INTO YOUR FOOD,
WHICH IS NEVER GOOD EATS.
NOW NYLON BRISTLES CAN LOAD UP
VERY, VERY--WELL, BADLY.
THEY'RE VULNERABLE
TO HEAT DAMAGE.
THEY'RE A PAIN TO CLEAN,
AND NEAR AS I CAN TELL,
BESIDES BEING CHEAP,
THERE ARE REALLY NO PROS
TO NYLON BRUSHES.
NOW IF YOU HANG OUT
IN A COOKING EMPORIUM
OR HAVE OVER
THE LAST FEW YEARS,
YOU'VE NO DOUBT NOTICED
SILICONE BASTING BRUSHES
LIKE THIS AND LIKE THIS
AND LIKE THIS.
THEY COMPLETELY MONOPOLIZED
THE RACKS OF STORES NOW
BECAUSE OF THEIR GOOFY SHAPES
AND THEIR CANDY COLOR SCHEMES.
NOW SILICONE IS EASY TO CLEAN.
IT'S DISHWASHER SAFE,
CAN TOLERATE TEMPERATURES
IN EXCESS OF 600 DEGREES,
WHICH MEANS THEY CAN STICK
THEIR LITTLE FLOPPY HEADS
WAY DOWN INTO THE GRILL,
AND, OF COURSE,
THEY'RE PERFECT FOR, YOU KNOW,
LIKE TICKLING THINGS.
BUT SILICONE LOADS LOUSY,
AND THAT MEANS MAKING
A LOT OF DRIPPY TRIPS
BACK AND FORTH, YOU KNOW,
IF YOU GET MY DRIFT.
NOW I WOULD HAVE GIVEN UP
ON THESE THINGS ENTIRELY
IF IT WERE NOT
FOR ONE SMALL ADVANCE.
CERTAIN MODELS NOW SPORT
THESE KIND OF LITTLE
FLAT PADDLE AREAS
RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE
OF THE BRISTLES, OKAY?
AND IT'S FULL OF HOLES,
AND WHEN DIPPED IN SOMETHING
LIKE BUTTER, THEY FILL UP,
KIND OF LIKE THE BUBBLE WANDS
YOU USED TO PLAY WITH AS A KID.
NOW I STILL KEEP AROUND
A FEW OTHER BRUSHES
FOR VARIOUS TASKS,
BUT FOR BUTTER,
THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE.
THERE, I THINK
THAT'S ABOUT FINISHED.
HA-HA-HA-HA.
TIME NOW TO FACE THE PHYLLO.
OKAY, ONE WHOLE PACKAGE,
A POUND,
STRAIGHT FROM THE FREEZER
INTO THE MICROWAVE
ON HIGH FOR 60 SECONDS.
I KNOW, MOST RECIPES CALL
FOR THAWING IN THE FRIDGE,
BUT THAT INEVITABLY
MEANS MOISTURE BUILDUP,
AND MOISTURE LEADS
TO GUMMY PHYLLO,
WHICH IS NIGH
ON IMPOSSIBLE TO WORK WITH.
TRUST ME ON THIS!
NOW THE PHYLLO IS GONNA BE
A LOT EASIER TO WORK WITH
IF IT'S THE RIGHT SIZE,
SO JUST LAY YOUR
PAN ON ACROSS THE STACK,
AND USE IT AS A GUIDE.
TRIM WITH A SHARP KNIFE.
THERE. NOW TRADITIONALLY,
A MOIST TOWEL IS LAID
ACROSS THE PHYLLO STACK
TO KEEP IT FROM DRYING OUT.
HOGWASH, I SAY!
JUST WORK QUICKLY,
AND YOU'RE NOT GONNA HAVE
ANY TROUBLES WHATSOEVER.
OKAY, FIRST STEP--
BRUSH THE PAN WITH BUTTER.
AND MAKE SURE YOU GET
THE CORNERS. THAT'S IMPORTANT.
THERE, NOW WE'LL
BRING ON THE FIRST SHEET.
YOU'LL NOTICE THAT
I LIKE TO LIFT AWAY,
BRING IT OVER AND THEN
LAY IT DOWN TOWARDS ME.
IT'S ALMOST LIKE, YOU KNOW, I'M
PUTTING A NEW SHEET ON A BED.
AND NOW WE'LL BUTTER THE TOP.
NOW I LIKE TO JUST
KIND OF SPRINKLE
THE BUTTER AROUND FIRST
AND THEN SMOOTH IT OUT,
SPREAD IT, ALWAYS
MOVING TOWARDS THE SIDES,
SO I DON'T FOLD IT UP ON ITSELF.
NOW WE REPEAT THIS
WITH NINE MORE SHEETS,
WITH BUTTER BETWEEN
EACH OF THEM.
THAT'S A TOTAL OF TEN.
OKAY, NOW THE FIRST
INSTALLMENT OF NUTS--
1/3 EVENLY DISTRIBUTED.
NOW YOU DON'T WANT
TO PACK 'EM DOWN,
BUT YOU DON'T WANT
AIR POCKETS EITHER.
GOOD, NOW THE SPRITZ
WITH THE ROSE WATER.
AND DON'T BE ALARMED
IF THE ROOM SUDDENLY SMELLS
LIKE YOUR GRANDMOTHER
JUST WALKED IN.
THIS IS, AFTER ALL,
THE SIGNATURE AROMA
OF OLD WOMEN EVERYWHERE.
OKAY, NOW SIX SHEETS
OF PHYLLO GO ON
JUST AS BEFORE, WITH BUTTER
BETWEEN EACH LAYER.
AHH, OKAY.
NOW A SECOND
INSTALLMENT OF NUTS
AND A SECOND SPRITZ.
IS TH WE WILL FOLLOW
WITH ANOTHER SIX SHEETS
WITH BUTTER
BETWEEN EVERY LAYER.
OKAY, THE LAST INSTALLMENT
OF NUTS GOES ON
AND THE FINAL INSTALLMENT
OF EAU DE OLD LADY.
IT TASTES GOOD THOUGH,
BELIEVE ME.
AND WE TOP THAT WITH
EIGHT SHEETS OF PHYLLO
WITH BUTTER IN BETWEEN.
SO THAT'S A TOTAL OF 30 SHEETS--
30 SHEETS ALL DAY,
EACH ONE WITH A LITTLE BIT
OF BUTTER IN BETWEEN.
ALL RIGHT,
INTO THE 350-DEGREE OVEN
FOR 30 MINUTES.
THEN WE WILL REMOVE IT,
CUT IT INTO PORTIONS
AND BAKE ANOTHER 30.
¶
(buzzing)
AHH, GOOD, EVEN BROWNING.
NOW WE CUT.
JUST USE A PLAIN
OLD PARING KNIFE FOR THIS,
NON-SERRATED, AND SAW
STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN.
DON'T WORRY ABOUT CUTTING
THROUGH EVERY BIT OF DOUGH.
WE'LL TAKE CARE OF THAT LATER.
AND DON'T WORRY
IF THE TOP LAYER SHATTERS
A LITTLE BIT AS YOU CUT.
IT'LL ALL COME
BACK TOGETHER LATER
WHEN THE SYRUP
COMES HOME TO ROOST.
AHH, THERE, NOW BACK IN,
AND WE'LL BAKE
FOR ANOTHER 30 MINUTES.
MEANWHILE, WE WILL
CONSTRUCT PHASE FOUR--
THE SYRUP.
SUGAR FROM CANE
REALLY DIDN'T MAKE IT
TO THE MIDDLE EAST
UNTIL THE 10th
OR 11th CENTURIES,
WHICH IS WHY MOST OF THE CLASSIC
DESSERTS OF THE REGION
ARE SWEETENED
EXCLUSIVELY WITH HONEY.
NOW OUR APPLICATION
WILL MAKE USE
OF 1 1/4 CUPS
OF ORANGE BLOSSOM HONEY,
BUT BECAUSE I FIND HONEY
OVERPOWERING IN LARGE AMOUNTS,
BECAUSE SUGAR-BASED SYRUPS
SET MORE SOLIDLY,
I WILL USE THE SAME AMOUNT
OF GOOD 'OL CITIZEN CANE.
SO 1 1/4 CUP EACH
HONEY AND SUGAR
GOES INTO A 4-QUART SAUCEPAN,
ALONG WITH 1 PIECE OF CINNAMON
AND A NICE PIECE OF ORANGE ZEST
AND A CUP AND A 1/4 OF WATER.
I'LL BRING THAT TO A BOIL
OVER A HIGH HEAT,
STIRRING EVERY NOW AND THEN.
AND WHEN IT GETS TO A BOIL,
LET IT STAY AT A BOIL
FOR A SOLID TEN MINUTES.
THEN REMOVE THE BITS AND PIECES,
AND USE IMMEDIATELY,
OR IF YOU LET IT COOL,
MAKE SURE YOU REHEAT IT BEFORE
ADDING IT TO THE BAKLAVA.
AHH, GOOD, EXACTLY
WHAT WE WANT TO SEE.
NOW LET THIS COOL
TO ROOM TEMPERATURE
BEFORE INTRODUCING
THE SYRUP TO THE PARTY.
COME ON.
ALL RIGHT, TWO HOURS ARE UP.
IT IS TIME
TO RE-PERFORATE OUR BAKLAVA.
BEFORE YOU DO THIS, IF YOU MADE
YOUR SYRUP AHEAD OF TIME,
GO AHEAD AND PUT SOME HEAT TO IT
SO IT'LL BE NICE AND STEAMY
WHEN IT GOES ONTO THE DOUGH.
SO LET'S JUST RETRACE
OUR STEPS, SHALL WE?
¶
NOW I REALIZE AT THIS POINT,
THAT IT LOOKS LIKE THERE'S
JUST WAY TOO MUCH SYRUP,
BUT BELIEVE ME,
OVER THE NEXT EIGHT HOURS,
IT WILL ALL BE ABSORBED.
YEAH, EIGHT HOURS.
WELL, LOOK, I SAID IT WAS GOOD,
AND I SAID IT WAS EASY.
I NEVER SAID IT WAS FAST.
¶
AND SO IN THE END,
WE SEE THAT WHEN ARMED
WITH A LITTLE UNDERSTANDING,
THE FEAR FALLS AWAY,
AND WE CAN SEE BAKLAVA
FOR WHAT IT REALLY IS--
FUN, EASY TO BAKE,
A SNAP TO BUILD,
A DELICIOUS PIECE
OF HISTORY ON A PLATE,
WHICH MAY BE WORTHY
OF PLACEMENT IN A MUSEUM,
BUT ALSO DESERVING
OF A PLACE IN OUR KITCHENS,
NOT TO MENTION ON "GOOD EATS."
GOOD NIGHT.
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