Good Eats (1999–2012): Season 10, Episode 20 - Espress Yourself - full transcript
We could all use some education about true espresso.
GREETINGS, FOOD FANS.
ALTON BROWN HERE.
I DON'T KNOW IF YOU'VE NOTICED,
BUT IT SEEMS IN THE LAST FEW
YEARS, EVERYONE WITH A LIMOUSINE
AND A LARYNX HAS PUMPED OUT
A CD OF AMERICAN "STANDARDS."
YOU KNOW, THOSE TUNES THAT
ARE SUPPOSEDLY AGELESS
AND UNABASHEDLY AMERICAN.
YET AT THE VERY
SAME TIME, IT SEEMS
THAT ANY AND ALL INTEREST
IN AMERICAN FOOD CLASSICS
HAS BEEN SWEPT AWAY
BY A FLOOD OF FOREIGN FLAVORS.
I'M AFRAID THAT WE'RE LOSING
OUR AMERICAN CULINARY HERITAGE,
AND I JUST CAN'T HAVE THAT,
WHICH IS WHY I'VE
TAKEN THE LIBERTY
OF GOING THROUGH 200 OR 300
AMERICAN COOKBOOKS
AND WRITING DOWN ABOUT 60 DISHES
THAT I THINK TRULY SUM UP
THE AMERICAN FOOD EXPERIENCE.
IN A MOMENT, I WILL REACH
MY HAND INTO THIS HOPPER
AND WHATEVER I PULL OUT WILL GET
THE FULL "GOOD EATS" TREATMENT,
MEANING THAT WE'LL FUSS
AND FIDGET OVER EVERY DETAIL
AS THOUGH OUR LIVES DEPENDED
ON IT, AND WHAT'S MORE,
TODAY THERE'S NOT GONNA BE
ANY OF THAT FUNNY BUSINESS.
NO STUPID CHARACTERS OR HOKEY...
(cow moos)
SPECIAL EFFECTS.
NO, WE'RE JUST GONNA
MAKE A DOWN, DIRTY,
HONEST COOKING SHOW--
(groans)
LET'S GET TO IT.
TODAY'S AMERICAN CLASSIC IS...
Closed Captions provided
by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by
Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
TODAY'S AMERICAN CLASSIC
DISH--SPINACH SALAD,
WHICH IS A STRANGE CASE.
UNLIKE OTHER CLASSIC SALADS,
SAY THE COBB OR THE WALDORF
OR EVEN THE CAESAR,
THE ORIGINS OF THE SPINACH
SALAD--VERY HAZY.
FOR INSTANCE,
A BOOK THAT I OFTEN GO TO
FOR RESEARCH ON THESE
THINGS--THE 1962 EDITION
OF "THE JOY OF COOKING,"
WHICH CONTAINS INSTRUCTIONS
FOR SKINNING A SQUIRREL,
MAKES NO MENTION
OF SPINACH SALAD WHATSOEVER.
THAT'S OKAY, BECAUSE
I THINK THE REAL SECRET
TO THE ORIGIN OF THIS SALAD
DOES NOT LIE IN A BOOK
BUT RATHER IN GEOGRAPHY ITSELF,
SPECIFICALLY A POINT ON THE MAP
RIGHT ABOUT HERE.
¶
I'M UNDERCOVER HERE
IN PENNSYLVANIA
BECAUSE I SUSPECT THAT THIS
IS ACTUALLY THE BIRTHPLACE
OF THE MODERN SPINACH SALAD.
NOW A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY--
"PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH?"
WRONG PHRASE.
SEE, ACTUALLY, "DUTCH"
IS AN AMERICANIZED VERSION
OF DEUTSCH, SO THE FOLKS
THAT WE CALL THE AMISH
AND THE MENNONITES ARE
GENERALLY OF GERMAN HERITAGE,
NOT DUTCH.
OKAY, NOW ONE OF THE DISHES
THAT THE GERMANS BROUGHT OVER
WHEN THEY IMMIGRATED
WAS A SALAD--
A SPECIAL SALAD--
SERVED IN SPRINGTIME
COMPOSED OF DANDELIONS,
BACON DRIPPINGS, VINEGAR--
DOES THIS SOUND FAMILIAR?--
AND EGGS, USUALLY A POACHED
OR HARD-BOILED EGG.
OH!
SUPPOSEDLY, THE EGG WAS A SYMBOL
NOT ONLY OF PHYSICAL RENEWAL,
BUT OF SPIRITUAL
RENEWAL AS WELL.
NOW I SUSPECT THAT THAT SALAD
BECAME THE SPINACH SALAD.
WHY DO I THINK IT HAPPENED HERE,
WHEN IT COULD HAVE HAPPENED
IN OTHER GERMAN COMMUNITIES
LIKE, SAY, MILWAUKEE
OR SAN ANTONIO?
WELL, WE'LL GET TO THAT LATER.
FIRST, LET'S DEAL
WITH THESE EGGS.
GIDDYAP, THERE PONY.
GIDDYAP NOW.
IT'S IMPOSSIBLE TO MAKE
A CLASSIC SPINACH SALAD
WITHOUT HARD-COOKED EGGS.
NOW ONE MIGHT THINK THAT
FRESHER IS ALWAYS BETTER.
THANK YOU.
BUT WHEN IT COMES
TO IN-SHELL COOKING,
A COUPLE OF WEEKS IN THE FRIDGE
WILL ACTUALLY HELP
BY WEAKENING THE MEMBRANE
IN BETWEEN THE WHITE,
OR ALBUMIN, AND THE SHELL,
AND THAT WILL MAKE THEM,
OF COURSE, A LOT EASIER TO PEEL
ONCE THEY'RE COOKED.
NOW NOTICE WHEN I SAID "COOKED,"
I DIDN'T SAY "BOILED."
TRUTH IS, IS I THINK
THE TRADITIONAL CAULDRON
OF BOILING WATER IS TOO
VIOLENT FOR EGG COOKERY.
TOO MUCH HEAT IS TRANSFERRED
THROUGH THE SHELL,
AND THAT CAN RESULT
IN RUBBERY WHITES
AND GRAINY, DARK-TINGED YOLKS,
AND THAT'S A BAD THING.
IS THERE AN ANSWER? YES!
THE ELECTRIC KETTLE.
NOW THE BRITS HAVE BEEN USING
THESE DEVICES FOR DECADES
AS A WAY TO ALWAYS HAVE HOT
WATER ON HAND FOR MAKING TEA.
THOSE EARLY MODELS
HAD THE HEATING ELEMENT
RIGHT UP INSIDE
THE WATER CONTAINER,
AND THEY'D TEND TO JUST BOIL
UNTIL THEY WERE TURNED OFF,
BUT MODERN UNITS ACTUALLY HAVE
AN ENCLOSED HEATING ELEMENT
UNDER HERE, AND BEST OF ALL,
THEY TURN OFF WHEN
THEY REACH A BOIL,
WHICH IS PERFECT FOR EGGS,
SO IN THIS CASE,
I'M GONNA DROP IN FOUR.
I'M GONNA MAKE SURE
THEY'RE COVERED BY AT LEAST
1 INCH OF COLD WATER,
THEN JUST TURN IT ON,
AND LET THE KETTLE DO THE WORK.
THERE. WHEN THE KETTLE
TURNS ITSELF OFF,
SET YOUR TIMER TO 15 MINUTES
AND LEAVE THOSE ALONE.
AFTER 15 MINUTES,
DRAIN YOUR EGGS AND THEN FILL
THE KETTLE WITH COLD WATER.
IN JUST A COUPLE MINUTES,
THE EGGS WILL BE COOL
ENOUGH TO PEEL.
YOU DO WANT TO GET THEM PEELED
BECAUSE AS THEY COOL DOWN,
THAT OUTER MEMBRANE WILL
START TO REBIND WITH THE SHELL,
AND THAT CAN MAKE FOR
CONSIDERABLE FRUSTRATION
DOWN THE LINE.
NOW I REALIZE THAT
IF YOU KNOW HOW TO TURN ON
A TELEVISION SET, ODDS ARE
YOU KNOW HOW TO, YOU KNOW,
PEEL A HARD-COOKED EGG.
BUT THIS IS HOW I DO IT,
YOU KNOW, JUST IN CASE.
I JUST KIND OF RAP IT
SOFTLY WHILE TURNING IT.
THE GOAL HERE IS TO CREATE
KIND OF A NETWORK OF FAULTS--
FAULT LINES.
THERE, IT'S BROKEN ALL AROUND.
NOW IT'S EASY ENOUGH TO JUST
GET UNDER THAT MEMBRANE,
AND YOU SHOULD
BE ABLE TO PEEL IT
PRETTY MUCH
ALL IN ONE PIECE,
LIKE THAT.
IF IT GIVES YOU ANY TROUBLE,
JUST GIVE IT
A LITTLE RUN UNDER WATER.
THE ONLY QUESTION REMAINING--
"IS IT DONE?"
ONLY ONE WAY TO FIND OUT.
IT REQUIRES JUST
A PINCH OF SALT.
THIS IS A VERY
SCIENTIFIC MOVE HERE.
ONCE IT'S COMPLETELY
COVERED WITH KOSHER SALT...
I'D SAY THAT'S
JUST ABOUT PERFECT.
CREAMY, CREAMY WHITE.
THE EGG YOLK IS NICE AND BRIGHT.
IT'S A GOOD THING.
OH, BY THE WAY, THIS RECIPE
ONLY NEEDS TWO EGGS.
ONE OF THEM--OF THE FOUR--
IS TO CHECK FOR DONENESS,
AND THE OTHER IS, WELL,
YOU KNOW, A SNACK.
¶
THE WORD BACON HAS
DIFFERENT MEANINGS
DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU ARE.
IN EUROPE, BACON USUALLY REFERS
TO 1/2 OF A FATTENED PIG.
IN IRELAND AND CANADA,
BACON REFERS TO CURED MEAT
FROM THE LOIN
ON THE BACK OF THE ANIMAL.
BUT HERE IN THE UNITED STATES,
WE'RE TALKING ABOUT SIDE MEAT
TAKEN FROM BETWEEN RIB NUMBER
FIVE AND THE HIP BONE.
IT IS THEN USUALLY CURED,
USUALLY SMOKED,
BUT SOMETIMES SMOKED
WITHOUT BEING CURED,
AND SOMETIMES CURED
WITHOUT BEING SMOKED.
BACON IS AVAILABLE SLICED
INTO INDIVIDUAL RASHERS,
WHICH COME EITHER
IN THICK OR STANDARD SIZES,
OR YOU CAN GET SLAB BACON,
WHICH COMES IN A WHOLE FLITCH.
NOW, ALTHOUGH IT'S
A LITTLE TOUGHER TO FIND
AND YOU HAVE TO SLICE
IT UP YOURSELF,
I'M A SLAB GUY ALL DAY LONG.
NOW ALTHOUGH IT DELIVERS
A SUBLIME SYMPHONY OF SALTY,
SMOKY AND CRUNCHY,
OUR MAIN CONCERN HERE
IS THE FAT ITSELF,
WHICH WILL SERVE DUAL DUTY
AS BOTH DRESSING BASE
AND SOLE COOKING AGENT.
¶
¶
IF YOU WENT WITH
THE THICK-CUT BACON,
THEN YOU CAN COMPLETELY
IGNORE THE NEXT 30 SECONDS
OF THIS PROGRAM, BUT IF YOU
WENT WITH THE SLAB BACON,
AND I CERTAINLY HOPE YOU DID,
IT COULD BE A LITTLE ON THE, UH,
SLIMY AND SLIPPERY SIDE,
SO TAKE A LITTLE
PRECAUTION FOR CUTTING.
IF IT CAME HOME
IN BUTCHER PAPER,
THEN YOU'RE ALREADY
HALFWAY THERE.
IF NOT, JUST BREAK OUT
A PIECE OF FREEZER PAPER
OR PARCHMENT, KIND OF WRAP
IT UP NICE AND TIGHT.
SWADDLE IT, IF YOU WILL.
THERE YOU GO, AND LAY IT CURVED
SIDE UP, NICE AND TIGHT.
NOW, AS FOR KNIFE SELECTION,
N'U DOYOT WANT TO DO
A LOT OF SAWING.
YOU WANT A CLEAN CUT, SO USE
THE LONGEST THING YOU'VE GOT,
EITHER A SLICER,
A LONG CHEF KNIFE LIKE THIS,
OR, OF COURSE, A 14-INCH
SCIMITAR WOULD DO VERY NICELY.
SO MAKE SURE THAT
YOU'VE GOT IT HELD TIGHT
AND MAKE YOUR CUT.
NOW IF IT'S REALLY,
REALLY, REALLY DIFFICULT,
YOU CAN ALWAYS FREEZE
THE MEAT BRIEFLY
BEFORE YOU START CUTTING, AND
IT WILL FIRM UP A LITTLE BIT.
I'M LOOKING FOR ANYWHERE
FROM KIND OF, UH,
ABOUT 1/4 INCH WOULD BE NICE.
DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE PAPER.
WE CAN GET RID OF THAT LATER.
COOKING BACON ON A STOVETOP
CAN LEAD TO GREASY COUNTERS
AND CHARRED PORK.
THE SAFE BET? ROAST IT.
STRETCHING YOUR RASHERS OUT
ON A COOLING RACK LIKE THIS
WILL KEEP THEM NICE AND FLAT.
THE SHEET PAN WILL CAPTURE
THE DRIPPINGS FOR LATER USE.
NOW START IN A COLD OVEN,
TURN TO 400 DEGREES,
AND COOK 15 TO 20 MINUTES.
OR UNTIL IT'S NICE AND CRISPY.
NOW YOU'RE GONNA WANT TO
COOL AND CRUMBLE THE BACON,
DRAIN OFF THE FAT,
RESERVING 3 TABLESPOONS
FOR OUR HOT DRESSING,
WHICH WILL ALSO CONTAIN...
VINEGAR MAY MEAN
"SOUR WINE" IN FRENCH,
BUT IT APPEARS JUST AS OFTEN
IN THE SWEET-AND-SOUR CUISINE
OF GERMANY AS IT DOES
IN THAT OF THEIR OFT-OCCUPIED
NEIGHBORS TO THE WEST.
WHAT WAS ONCE A LOVELY WINE
IS NOW A SLIGHTLY
ACIDIC SOLUTION
IN WHICH MOST OF THE ALCOHOL
HAS BEEN METABOLIZED
BY A FAMILY OF BACTERIA
KNOWN AS ACETOBACTORS.
THE RESULTING LIQUID HAS
BEEN USED FOR CENTURIES
AS A CONDIMENT,
A MEDICINE, A HAIR TONIC,
AND HALF OF THE GREATEST
SALAD DRESSING EVER INVENTED.
NOW GOOD VINEGARS,
SUCH AS THOSE PRODUCED
VIA THE ORLEANS PROCESS,
SPEND MONTHS IN WOODEN BARRELS
SLOWLY DEVELOPING
SUBSTANCES CALLED ESTERS,
WHICH GIVE THEM A DEEPER FLAVOR.
MASS-PRODUCED VINEGARS
USUALLY USE CHEAP WINE
AND VERY LITTLE TIME.
NOW WE'RE ALSO GOING TO REQUIRE
A WEE BIT OF DIJON MUSTARD
WHICH IS MADE FROM CRUSHED
BROWN OR BLACK MUSTARD SEEDS.
AND LIKE OTHER MUSTARDS, IT
GETS ITS CHARACTERISTIC KICK
FROM A CHEMICAL
REACTION THAT OCCURS
WHEN THE BROKEN SEEDS
COME IN CONTACT WITH WATER.
NOW BY ADDING EITHER
VINEGAR OR WINE TO THE MIX,
MUSTARD MAKERS CAN STOP
THE REACTION IN ITS TRACKS,
LOCKING THE FLAVOR
IN PLACE FOREVER.
NOT ONLY WILL IT BRING
FLAVOR TO THE PARTY,
MUSTARD'S MICROSCOPIC PARTICLES
WILL HELP TO EMULSIFY
THE BACON FAT AND THE VINEGAR,
KEEPING THEM TOGETHER
WHEN THEY HIT THE SALAD.
NOW LET US CONSIDER
ONE OF THE MORE UNUSUAL,
ALBEIT CLASSIC ELEMENTS
IN THIS SALAD,
WHICH TAKES US BACK
TO LANCASTER, PENNSYLVANIA.
ONCE UPON A TIME,
AGARICUS BISPORUS,
THE WHITE MUSHROOM,
WAS CULTIVATED IN CAVES
AROUND AND EVEN IN
THE SEWERS OF PARIS.
THE KNOWLEDGE MIGRATED
EVENTUALLY TO ENGLAND,
AND THEN TO AMERICA, WHERE
MUSHROOM SEEDS, OR SPAWNS,
WERE PERFECTED.
NOW THROUGHOUT THE 19th
CENTURY, THIS ENTIRE AREA
WAS KNOWN FOR FLOWERS,
ESPECIALLY CARNATIONS,
WHICH WERE GROWN
IN LARGE GREENHOUSES.
IN THE 1890s,
A COUPLE OF QUAKER GROWERS
DECIDED TO TRY TO MAKE USE
OF THE AREA BENEATH
THE RAISED CARNATION BEDS.
BURLAP CURTAINS WERE HUNG,
AND MUSHROOMS WERE PLANTED.
WHAT STARTED AS A SIDELINE
BECAME A MAJOR INDUSTRY
MOSTLY BECAUSE
OF THE AREA'S PROXIMITY
TO SEVERAL LARGE CITIES
AND TO RAIL LINES,
WHICH MAKE FAST
SHIPMENT POSSIBLE.
AND THERE WAS AND IS
A LARGE ABUNDANCE
OF HORSE MANURE IN THE AREA
WHICH IS USED
TO PRODUCE THE COMPOST
THAT THE MUSHROOMS GROW IN.
BUT DON'T WORRY. IT'S
PASTEURIZED--DOESN'T EVEN SMELL.
TODAY, PENNSYLVANIA IS
THE UNDISPUTED MUSHROOM CAPITAL
OF THE--OF THE UNITED STATES.
NOW, LET'S SEE--
GERMAN SETTLERS, BACON
DRESSING ON DANDELIONS,
EGGS, ZILLIONS OF MUSHROOMS...
YOU KNOW, IT WAS JUST
A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE...
I BELIEVE THOU'ST
GOT THINE SALAD
IN MY MUSHROOMS.
WELL, I'M SORRY,
BUT I BELIEVE THOU
HAST GOT THY MUSHROOM
IN MY SALAD.
MMM.
(Alton)
BY AND LARGE,
WHEN PURCHASING MUSHROOMS,
YOU WANT TO LOOK
FOR WHOLE SPECIMENS
FREE OF WRINKLES, BRUISES,
WET OR SOFT SPOTS,
AND THEY SHOULDN'T BE SPONGY.
NOW AS FAR AS WHITE
BUTTON MUSHROOMS GO,
REMEMBER, THE GILLS
SHOULD ALWAYS BE CLOSED.
TEMPTING THOUGH THEY MAY BE,
RESIST PRESLICED MUSHROOMS.
ONCE THEY'RE EXPOSED TO AIR,
THE FLESH OF ANY MUSHROOM
GOES DOWNHILL QUICKLY, SO
ANYTHING YOU GAIN IN CONVENIENCE
WILL DEFINITELY
BE LOST IN QUALITY.
OH, A FEW WORDS ABOUT DIRT.
IF YOU DON'T REALLY SEE ANY,
THEN JUST ASSUME
THAT YOUR MUSHROOMS ARE
CLEAN ENOUGH TO USE AS IS.
IF THEY LOOK A LITTLE SCRUFFY,
YOU CAN GIVE THEM A QUICK RINSE
UNDER COLD WATER.
WASHING WILL NOT RESULT
IN A WATERLOGGED MUSHROOM
UNLESS, OF COURSE, YOU GIVE THEM
A VERY LONG, LEISURELY SOAK,
WHICH WE WON'T.
NOW FOR THIS SALAD
WE ONLY NEED FOUR
LARGE WHITE BUTTON MUSHROOMS,
ABOUT DOORKNOB SIZE.
BUT THE REST OF THESE?
UH... THAT'S ANOTHER SHOW.
¶
¶
NOW THE PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH
MAY HAVE ENJOYED DANDELION
SALAD AS A RITE OF SPRING,
BUT YOU KNOW, THAT
WEED'S NEVER GOTTEN MUCH
IN THE WAY OF CULINARY
RESPECT IN THIS COUNTRY,
SO IT MAKES SENSE THAT
THEY WOULD EVENTUALLY
REACH FOR A MORE
ACCEPTED EARLY RISER--
SPINACH, WHICH THE 12th-
CENTURY FOOD WRITER,
IBN AL-AWAM, CALLED
"THE PRINCE OF VEGETABLES."
NOW, SEVERAL TYPES ARE
CULTIVATED IN THIS COUNTRY,
AND ARE AVAILABLE BOTH
IN SPRING AND IN FALL.
LET'S SEE, HERE WE HAVE
THE CRINKLY SAVOY SPINACH.
ONE OF MY FAVORITES--
THERE IS A HYBRID SEMI-SAVOY,
AND THEN, OF COURSE, FLAT LEAF,
WHICH IS GENERALLY AVAILABLE
IN BOTH THE MATURE
AND THE BABY FORMS.
OH, I SHOULDN'T
LEAVE OUT THIS ONE.
THIS IS A RED-VEINED SPINACH.
LOOKS KIND OF LIKE BEET GREENS,
BUT IT ACTUALLY
IS INDEED A SPINACH.
NOW I FIND THAT EITHER
THE SAVOY OR THE SEMI-SAVOY
WORKS BEST IN THIS SALAD
BECAUSE THE LEAVES DON'T REALLY
FALL APART WHEN THEY WILT,
AND THEY DON'T LIE FLAT
AGAINST THE BOWL.
NOW AS FAR AS THE FORM GOES,
I REALLY DO LIKE THEM
JUST LOOSE LIKE THIS,
BUT YOU CAN ALSO GET
THEM IN BUNCHES
AND TRIPLE-WASHED IN BAGS.
BUT, YOU KNOW, I JUST
DON'T TRUST THESE THINGS
BECAUSE WASHING KIND OF
ACCELERATES DECOMPOSITION,
AND THAT CAN BE BLOCKED
BY THE BAG ITSELF,
SO I'LL JUST KEEP
THE WASHING TO MYSELF.
YOU ALWAYS WANT TO LOOK FOR
LEAVES THAT ARE DARK GREEN,
VERY CRISP, AND ARE
FREE OF DISCOLORATION.
ANY SLIMY SPOTS, EXCESS
GOOEYNESS AND WHATNOT
SHOULD BE AVOIDED.
DIRT'S OKAY.
WE'LL DEAL WITH THE DIRT.
SINCE IT'S USUALLY
GROWN IN SANDY SOIL,
SPINACH REQUIRES
A LOT OF WASHING,
AND I DON'T MEAN
JUST A LITTLE SHOWER.
I MEAN A BATH IN WATER
THAT IS DEEP ENOUGH
FOR ANY DISLODGED SAND
TO SINK DOWN
AWAY FROM THE LEAVES.
BIG BATCHES MAY EVEN
NEED A CHANGE OF WATER.
NOW AFTER THE BATH, ANY
SURFACE AGUA ON THE LEAVES
WILL HAVE TO GO.
YOU'RE EITHER GONNA HAVE TO ROLL
THIS ALL UP IN A PAPER TOWEL
OR GO FOR A SPIN.
I REMEMBER THE DAY
THAT I LEARNED ALL ABOUT
CENTRIFUGAL
AND CENTRIPETAL FORCES.
I WAS 4 AND CLINGING
TO A RUNAWAY MERRY-GO-ROUND
PROPELLED BY SOME
OVERZEALOUS THIRD GRADERS.
I DECIDED AT ONE POINT
JUST TO LET GO
AND SUDDENLY FOUND MYSELF FLYING
OFF INTO THE SIDE OF A TRASH CAN
AT MACH TWO.
THE RESULTS HAUNT ME
TO THIS DAY.
OF COURSE, LUCKILY, THESE
FORCES CAN BE USED FOR GOOD.
FOR INSTANCE, MAKING
ASTRONAUT TRAINEES PASS OUT,
DOING BLOOD WORK,
RINGING WATER OUT OF CLOTHES IN
THE SPIN CYCLE, AND OF COURSE,
SPINNING THE WATER
OFF OF GREENS LIKE SPINACH.
NOW THE FORCES THAT
DO THE ACTUAL WORK
WILL BE PROVIDED BY NATURE.
THE MACHINE THAT WILL TAKE
CARE OF THAT, HOWEVER,
WE HAVE TO PROVIDE OURSELVES.
JANE, GET ME OFF
THIS CRAZY THING!
THE SALAD SPINNER IS
REALLY A SIMPLE DEVICE--
JUST A KIND OF PLASTIC
COLANDER THAT FITS
INSIDE A BASE WITH
A LITTLE PIVOT POINT.
THE REAL DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN MODELS
COMES IN THE DRIVE MECHANISM.
NOW THIS ONE HAS A CRANK,
WHICH CAN GET UP A LOT OF SPEED,
BUT IT GETS OUT OF BALANCE AND--
(groans)
NO THANKS.
THIS IS A BIT OF AN IMPROVEMENT,
ESPECIALLY POPULAR
WITH YOU GUYS THAT
LIKE TO MOW THE LAWN.
YOU JUST PULL THIS CHORD,
AND YOU CAN GET A GOOD
BIT OF SPEED, BUT, UH--OH!
WELL, MAYBE WE'LL TRY OUT
THE PLUNGER MODEL NOW.
THIS DOESN'T SEEM TO BE PLAGUED
BY ALL THE OTHER PROBLEMS
THAT THE OTHER MACHINES HAVE.
YOU JUST USE
THE OLD ARCHIMEDES SCREW.
IT'S GOT A NICE
LITTLE BRAKE ON IT.
AND NICE AND DRY GREENS.
NOW LEST YOU THINK
THAT'S A UNITASKER,
YOU CAN ALSO DRY PASTA
IN HERE, AND YES,
THAT IS SOMETHING I WOULD DO.
OUR LAST PIECE OF SOFTWARE
ISN'T EXACTLY TRADITIONAL,
BUT I DO FIND THAT ONE
SMALL RED ONION FRENCHED--
THIS IS,
CUT EXCRUCIATINGLY THIN--
ADDS COLOR AND
AN EARTHY PUNGENCY
THAT HELPS TO HOLD
THE SALAD TOGETHER.
AND NOW WE BUILD...
... GOES INTO A LARGE,
HEAVY, STAINLESS STEEL BOWL
DIRECTLY OVER THE HEAT,
AND THAT IS ON LOW.
YOU JUST WANT TO HEAT THAT UP
UNTIL YOU JUST START TO SEE
A LITTLE BIT OF RIPPLE IN THERE.
THEN WE'RE GONNA WHISK IN...
NOT ONLY WILL THAT ADD FLAVOR,
BUT IT WILL BE A NICE
EMULSIFYING AGENT.
A GOOD BIT OF HEAT'S GONNA
JUST COME UP THE SIDES.
THAT'S GOOD.
WE'RE GONNA USE THAT HEAT.
ADD A LITTLE BIT OF SALT,
A FEW GRINDS OF PEPPER.
GO AHEAD AND KILL THE HEAT.
THERE'S ENOUGH HEAT UP
IN THE SIDE OF THE BOWL NOW.
AND WHEN THAT
STARTS TO LOOK CREAMY,
WE'LL ADD THE SPINACH,
JUST IN HANDFULS,
AND THE ONION ON TOP,
AND THE MUSHROOMS.
HOLD EVERYTHING ELSE OUT.
AND JUST GRAB YOUR
TONGS AND FLIP.
BASICALLY WHAT WE'RE
DOING IS WE'RE COATING,
BUT WE'RE ALSO TRYING
TO MOVE THE HEAT
FROM THE SIDES OF THE BOWL
INTO THE SPINACH,
WILTING IT,
EVER SO SLIGHTLY.
JUST KEEP TURNING.
KEEP TURNING.
KEEP IT MOVING, OR SOME
OF THE LEAVES WILL OVERWILT.
THERE. THAT LOOKS GOOD.
NOW PLATE UP...
AND WE'LL ADD AT THE LAST
MOMENT SOME OF THE EGGS--
I LIKE THEM RIGHT ON TOP--
AND THE BACON.
AND THE ONLY THING MISSING?
A FORK.
¶
MMM.
MMM!
I GOTTA TELL YA,
THIS IS DELICIOUS.
BUT I THINK THE REAL
QUESTION IS,
IS SPINACH REALLY GOOD FOR YOU?
I DON'T THINK THERE'S
ANY REAL WAY TO--
¶
(grunting, choking)
(imitates Popeye's laugh)
(imitating Popeye)
SHIVER ME TIMBERS,
CHECK OUT ALL THESE MUSCLES.
(laughs)
I AM WHAT I AM,
AND WHAT I AM IS RIPPED
IN A KIND OF... WAY
IT IS BECAUSE I EAT SPINACHES,
WHICH IS PACKED WITH IRON
AND CALCIUM.
AND SOME OF THAT OXALIC ACID
WHICH SLOWS THE ABSORPTION
OF THE IRON AND CALCIUM
WHICH KIND OF...
OH...
OH, IT'S HUMILI-FLATIN'.
HAD ALL I COULD STAND, BUT I
COULD HAVE STOOD SOME MORE.
LUCKILY, SPINACH IS STILL
AN EXCELLENT SOURCE
OF VITAMINS A's AND K's
AND POTASSIUMS AND MAGNESIUMS
AND COPPERS AND RIBOFLAVINS
AND NIACINS AND B6
AND CALCIUMS AND PHOSPHOROUS
AND ZINCS AND A LITTLE BIT
OF SOME PROTEINS, TOO,
SO KIDS, YOU GOTS
TO EAT YOUR SPINACH.
(normal voice)
AND DON'T SMOKE!
NOW I DO FEEL
THAT WE HAVE CRACKED
THE CODE FOR WARM SPINACH SALAD,
BUT WHAT IF YOU WANTED
SOMETHING A LITTLE CREAMIER,
SOMETHING COOLER, SOMETHING
THAT MIGHT, I DON'T KNOW,
STAND UP TO A COUPLE
OF HOURS ON THE BUFFET?
WELL, YOU COULD USE THE SAME
INGREDIENTS IN THE SAME AMOUNTS
ONLY WITH A DIFFERENT TECHNIQUE.
WE BEGIN WITH THE EGG YOLKS,
WHICH WE HAVE HARVESTED
FROM OUR HARD-COOKED EGGS.
THOSE WILL GO
INTO A MIXING BOWL,
AND JUST MASH THEM UP
WITH A FORK.
SO WHAT'S WITH THE EGG YOLKS?
WELL, THEY'RE GONNA PROVIDE
BODY, FOR ONE THING,
AND THEY'RE ALSO GOING TO
ACT AS AN EMULSIFYING AGENT
KEEPING THIS DRESSING TOGETHER,
SO IT WON'T SEPARATE
FOR A FEW HOURS.
AND NOW THE VINEGAR.
THERE, AND WHEN IT STARTS
LOOKING NICE AND CREAMY,
SWITCH TO A WHISK,
AND WE'LL ADD THE SUGAR.
AND ADD THE MUSTARD.
THE BACON FAT.
YOU MAY HAVE TO WARM THIS UP
IN THE MICROWAVE A LITTLE BIT
JUST TO MAKE SURE
IT'S LIQUIDOUS.
AND GO AHEAD AND ADD
A LITTLE BIT OF SALT,
A FEW GRINDS OF PEPPER.
THERE WE GO.
AND FOLD IN THE SPINACH.
THEN THE ONIONS,
AND THE MUSHROOMS,
JUST AS BEFORE.
THIS TIME I'M GONNA
USE MY HANDS,
'CAUSE IT'S NOT BURNING HOT.
TOSS THOROUGHLY AND SERVE
TOPPED WITH THE BACON
AND THE EGG WHITES.
WELL, FOOD FANS, I HOPE THAT
YOU HAVE FOUND OUR FIRST
AMERICAN CLASSICS EPISODE
TO BE A TASTY ONE.
AS FOR OUR NEXT EPISODE,
WELL, WE'LL JUST HAVE TO WAIT
AND SEE WHAT ISSUES FORTH
FROM THE GREAT SPINNING
CAGE OF CULINARY CHAOS.
WHATEVER IT IS, REST ASSURED,
IT WILL BE "GOOD EATS."
ALTON BROWN HERE.
I DON'T KNOW IF YOU'VE NOTICED,
BUT IT SEEMS IN THE LAST FEW
YEARS, EVERYONE WITH A LIMOUSINE
AND A LARYNX HAS PUMPED OUT
A CD OF AMERICAN "STANDARDS."
YOU KNOW, THOSE TUNES THAT
ARE SUPPOSEDLY AGELESS
AND UNABASHEDLY AMERICAN.
YET AT THE VERY
SAME TIME, IT SEEMS
THAT ANY AND ALL INTEREST
IN AMERICAN FOOD CLASSICS
HAS BEEN SWEPT AWAY
BY A FLOOD OF FOREIGN FLAVORS.
I'M AFRAID THAT WE'RE LOSING
OUR AMERICAN CULINARY HERITAGE,
AND I JUST CAN'T HAVE THAT,
WHICH IS WHY I'VE
TAKEN THE LIBERTY
OF GOING THROUGH 200 OR 300
AMERICAN COOKBOOKS
AND WRITING DOWN ABOUT 60 DISHES
THAT I THINK TRULY SUM UP
THE AMERICAN FOOD EXPERIENCE.
IN A MOMENT, I WILL REACH
MY HAND INTO THIS HOPPER
AND WHATEVER I PULL OUT WILL GET
THE FULL "GOOD EATS" TREATMENT,
MEANING THAT WE'LL FUSS
AND FIDGET OVER EVERY DETAIL
AS THOUGH OUR LIVES DEPENDED
ON IT, AND WHAT'S MORE,
TODAY THERE'S NOT GONNA BE
ANY OF THAT FUNNY BUSINESS.
NO STUPID CHARACTERS OR HOKEY...
(cow moos)
SPECIAL EFFECTS.
NO, WE'RE JUST GONNA
MAKE A DOWN, DIRTY,
HONEST COOKING SHOW--
(groans)
LET'S GET TO IT.
TODAY'S AMERICAN CLASSIC IS...
Closed Captions provided
by Scripps Networks, LLC.
Captioned by
Closed Captioning Services, Inc.
TODAY'S AMERICAN CLASSIC
DISH--SPINACH SALAD,
WHICH IS A STRANGE CASE.
UNLIKE OTHER CLASSIC SALADS,
SAY THE COBB OR THE WALDORF
OR EVEN THE CAESAR,
THE ORIGINS OF THE SPINACH
SALAD--VERY HAZY.
FOR INSTANCE,
A BOOK THAT I OFTEN GO TO
FOR RESEARCH ON THESE
THINGS--THE 1962 EDITION
OF "THE JOY OF COOKING,"
WHICH CONTAINS INSTRUCTIONS
FOR SKINNING A SQUIRREL,
MAKES NO MENTION
OF SPINACH SALAD WHATSOEVER.
THAT'S OKAY, BECAUSE
I THINK THE REAL SECRET
TO THE ORIGIN OF THIS SALAD
DOES NOT LIE IN A BOOK
BUT RATHER IN GEOGRAPHY ITSELF,
SPECIFICALLY A POINT ON THE MAP
RIGHT ABOUT HERE.
¶
I'M UNDERCOVER HERE
IN PENNSYLVANIA
BECAUSE I SUSPECT THAT THIS
IS ACTUALLY THE BIRTHPLACE
OF THE MODERN SPINACH SALAD.
NOW A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY--
"PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH?"
WRONG PHRASE.
SEE, ACTUALLY, "DUTCH"
IS AN AMERICANIZED VERSION
OF DEUTSCH, SO THE FOLKS
THAT WE CALL THE AMISH
AND THE MENNONITES ARE
GENERALLY OF GERMAN HERITAGE,
NOT DUTCH.
OKAY, NOW ONE OF THE DISHES
THAT THE GERMANS BROUGHT OVER
WHEN THEY IMMIGRATED
WAS A SALAD--
A SPECIAL SALAD--
SERVED IN SPRINGTIME
COMPOSED OF DANDELIONS,
BACON DRIPPINGS, VINEGAR--
DOES THIS SOUND FAMILIAR?--
AND EGGS, USUALLY A POACHED
OR HARD-BOILED EGG.
OH!
SUPPOSEDLY, THE EGG WAS A SYMBOL
NOT ONLY OF PHYSICAL RENEWAL,
BUT OF SPIRITUAL
RENEWAL AS WELL.
NOW I SUSPECT THAT THAT SALAD
BECAME THE SPINACH SALAD.
WHY DO I THINK IT HAPPENED HERE,
WHEN IT COULD HAVE HAPPENED
IN OTHER GERMAN COMMUNITIES
LIKE, SAY, MILWAUKEE
OR SAN ANTONIO?
WELL, WE'LL GET TO THAT LATER.
FIRST, LET'S DEAL
WITH THESE EGGS.
GIDDYAP, THERE PONY.
GIDDYAP NOW.
IT'S IMPOSSIBLE TO MAKE
A CLASSIC SPINACH SALAD
WITHOUT HARD-COOKED EGGS.
NOW ONE MIGHT THINK THAT
FRESHER IS ALWAYS BETTER.
THANK YOU.
BUT WHEN IT COMES
TO IN-SHELL COOKING,
A COUPLE OF WEEKS IN THE FRIDGE
WILL ACTUALLY HELP
BY WEAKENING THE MEMBRANE
IN BETWEEN THE WHITE,
OR ALBUMIN, AND THE SHELL,
AND THAT WILL MAKE THEM,
OF COURSE, A LOT EASIER TO PEEL
ONCE THEY'RE COOKED.
NOW NOTICE WHEN I SAID "COOKED,"
I DIDN'T SAY "BOILED."
TRUTH IS, IS I THINK
THE TRADITIONAL CAULDRON
OF BOILING WATER IS TOO
VIOLENT FOR EGG COOKERY.
TOO MUCH HEAT IS TRANSFERRED
THROUGH THE SHELL,
AND THAT CAN RESULT
IN RUBBERY WHITES
AND GRAINY, DARK-TINGED YOLKS,
AND THAT'S A BAD THING.
IS THERE AN ANSWER? YES!
THE ELECTRIC KETTLE.
NOW THE BRITS HAVE BEEN USING
THESE DEVICES FOR DECADES
AS A WAY TO ALWAYS HAVE HOT
WATER ON HAND FOR MAKING TEA.
THOSE EARLY MODELS
HAD THE HEATING ELEMENT
RIGHT UP INSIDE
THE WATER CONTAINER,
AND THEY'D TEND TO JUST BOIL
UNTIL THEY WERE TURNED OFF,
BUT MODERN UNITS ACTUALLY HAVE
AN ENCLOSED HEATING ELEMENT
UNDER HERE, AND BEST OF ALL,
THEY TURN OFF WHEN
THEY REACH A BOIL,
WHICH IS PERFECT FOR EGGS,
SO IN THIS CASE,
I'M GONNA DROP IN FOUR.
I'M GONNA MAKE SURE
THEY'RE COVERED BY AT LEAST
1 INCH OF COLD WATER,
THEN JUST TURN IT ON,
AND LET THE KETTLE DO THE WORK.
THERE. WHEN THE KETTLE
TURNS ITSELF OFF,
SET YOUR TIMER TO 15 MINUTES
AND LEAVE THOSE ALONE.
AFTER 15 MINUTES,
DRAIN YOUR EGGS AND THEN FILL
THE KETTLE WITH COLD WATER.
IN JUST A COUPLE MINUTES,
THE EGGS WILL BE COOL
ENOUGH TO PEEL.
YOU DO WANT TO GET THEM PEELED
BECAUSE AS THEY COOL DOWN,
THAT OUTER MEMBRANE WILL
START TO REBIND WITH THE SHELL,
AND THAT CAN MAKE FOR
CONSIDERABLE FRUSTRATION
DOWN THE LINE.
NOW I REALIZE THAT
IF YOU KNOW HOW TO TURN ON
A TELEVISION SET, ODDS ARE
YOU KNOW HOW TO, YOU KNOW,
PEEL A HARD-COOKED EGG.
BUT THIS IS HOW I DO IT,
YOU KNOW, JUST IN CASE.
I JUST KIND OF RAP IT
SOFTLY WHILE TURNING IT.
THE GOAL HERE IS TO CREATE
KIND OF A NETWORK OF FAULTS--
FAULT LINES.
THERE, IT'S BROKEN ALL AROUND.
NOW IT'S EASY ENOUGH TO JUST
GET UNDER THAT MEMBRANE,
AND YOU SHOULD
BE ABLE TO PEEL IT
PRETTY MUCH
ALL IN ONE PIECE,
LIKE THAT.
IF IT GIVES YOU ANY TROUBLE,
JUST GIVE IT
A LITTLE RUN UNDER WATER.
THE ONLY QUESTION REMAINING--
"IS IT DONE?"
ONLY ONE WAY TO FIND OUT.
IT REQUIRES JUST
A PINCH OF SALT.
THIS IS A VERY
SCIENTIFIC MOVE HERE.
ONCE IT'S COMPLETELY
COVERED WITH KOSHER SALT...
I'D SAY THAT'S
JUST ABOUT PERFECT.
CREAMY, CREAMY WHITE.
THE EGG YOLK IS NICE AND BRIGHT.
IT'S A GOOD THING.
OH, BY THE WAY, THIS RECIPE
ONLY NEEDS TWO EGGS.
ONE OF THEM--OF THE FOUR--
IS TO CHECK FOR DONENESS,
AND THE OTHER IS, WELL,
YOU KNOW, A SNACK.
¶
THE WORD BACON HAS
DIFFERENT MEANINGS
DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU ARE.
IN EUROPE, BACON USUALLY REFERS
TO 1/2 OF A FATTENED PIG.
IN IRELAND AND CANADA,
BACON REFERS TO CURED MEAT
FROM THE LOIN
ON THE BACK OF THE ANIMAL.
BUT HERE IN THE UNITED STATES,
WE'RE TALKING ABOUT SIDE MEAT
TAKEN FROM BETWEEN RIB NUMBER
FIVE AND THE HIP BONE.
IT IS THEN USUALLY CURED,
USUALLY SMOKED,
BUT SOMETIMES SMOKED
WITHOUT BEING CURED,
AND SOMETIMES CURED
WITHOUT BEING SMOKED.
BACON IS AVAILABLE SLICED
INTO INDIVIDUAL RASHERS,
WHICH COME EITHER
IN THICK OR STANDARD SIZES,
OR YOU CAN GET SLAB BACON,
WHICH COMES IN A WHOLE FLITCH.
NOW, ALTHOUGH IT'S
A LITTLE TOUGHER TO FIND
AND YOU HAVE TO SLICE
IT UP YOURSELF,
I'M A SLAB GUY ALL DAY LONG.
NOW ALTHOUGH IT DELIVERS
A SUBLIME SYMPHONY OF SALTY,
SMOKY AND CRUNCHY,
OUR MAIN CONCERN HERE
IS THE FAT ITSELF,
WHICH WILL SERVE DUAL DUTY
AS BOTH DRESSING BASE
AND SOLE COOKING AGENT.
¶
¶
IF YOU WENT WITH
THE THICK-CUT BACON,
THEN YOU CAN COMPLETELY
IGNORE THE NEXT 30 SECONDS
OF THIS PROGRAM, BUT IF YOU
WENT WITH THE SLAB BACON,
AND I CERTAINLY HOPE YOU DID,
IT COULD BE A LITTLE ON THE, UH,
SLIMY AND SLIPPERY SIDE,
SO TAKE A LITTLE
PRECAUTION FOR CUTTING.
IF IT CAME HOME
IN BUTCHER PAPER,
THEN YOU'RE ALREADY
HALFWAY THERE.
IF NOT, JUST BREAK OUT
A PIECE OF FREEZER PAPER
OR PARCHMENT, KIND OF WRAP
IT UP NICE AND TIGHT.
SWADDLE IT, IF YOU WILL.
THERE YOU GO, AND LAY IT CURVED
SIDE UP, NICE AND TIGHT.
NOW, AS FOR KNIFE SELECTION,
N'U DOYOT WANT TO DO
A LOT OF SAWING.
YOU WANT A CLEAN CUT, SO USE
THE LONGEST THING YOU'VE GOT,
EITHER A SLICER,
A LONG CHEF KNIFE LIKE THIS,
OR, OF COURSE, A 14-INCH
SCIMITAR WOULD DO VERY NICELY.
SO MAKE SURE THAT
YOU'VE GOT IT HELD TIGHT
AND MAKE YOUR CUT.
NOW IF IT'S REALLY,
REALLY, REALLY DIFFICULT,
YOU CAN ALWAYS FREEZE
THE MEAT BRIEFLY
BEFORE YOU START CUTTING, AND
IT WILL FIRM UP A LITTLE BIT.
I'M LOOKING FOR ANYWHERE
FROM KIND OF, UH,
ABOUT 1/4 INCH WOULD BE NICE.
DON'T WORRY ABOUT THE PAPER.
WE CAN GET RID OF THAT LATER.
COOKING BACON ON A STOVETOP
CAN LEAD TO GREASY COUNTERS
AND CHARRED PORK.
THE SAFE BET? ROAST IT.
STRETCHING YOUR RASHERS OUT
ON A COOLING RACK LIKE THIS
WILL KEEP THEM NICE AND FLAT.
THE SHEET PAN WILL CAPTURE
THE DRIPPINGS FOR LATER USE.
NOW START IN A COLD OVEN,
TURN TO 400 DEGREES,
AND COOK 15 TO 20 MINUTES.
OR UNTIL IT'S NICE AND CRISPY.
NOW YOU'RE GONNA WANT TO
COOL AND CRUMBLE THE BACON,
DRAIN OFF THE FAT,
RESERVING 3 TABLESPOONS
FOR OUR HOT DRESSING,
WHICH WILL ALSO CONTAIN...
VINEGAR MAY MEAN
"SOUR WINE" IN FRENCH,
BUT IT APPEARS JUST AS OFTEN
IN THE SWEET-AND-SOUR CUISINE
OF GERMANY AS IT DOES
IN THAT OF THEIR OFT-OCCUPIED
NEIGHBORS TO THE WEST.
WHAT WAS ONCE A LOVELY WINE
IS NOW A SLIGHTLY
ACIDIC SOLUTION
IN WHICH MOST OF THE ALCOHOL
HAS BEEN METABOLIZED
BY A FAMILY OF BACTERIA
KNOWN AS ACETOBACTORS.
THE RESULTING LIQUID HAS
BEEN USED FOR CENTURIES
AS A CONDIMENT,
A MEDICINE, A HAIR TONIC,
AND HALF OF THE GREATEST
SALAD DRESSING EVER INVENTED.
NOW GOOD VINEGARS,
SUCH AS THOSE PRODUCED
VIA THE ORLEANS PROCESS,
SPEND MONTHS IN WOODEN BARRELS
SLOWLY DEVELOPING
SUBSTANCES CALLED ESTERS,
WHICH GIVE THEM A DEEPER FLAVOR.
MASS-PRODUCED VINEGARS
USUALLY USE CHEAP WINE
AND VERY LITTLE TIME.
NOW WE'RE ALSO GOING TO REQUIRE
A WEE BIT OF DIJON MUSTARD
WHICH IS MADE FROM CRUSHED
BROWN OR BLACK MUSTARD SEEDS.
AND LIKE OTHER MUSTARDS, IT
GETS ITS CHARACTERISTIC KICK
FROM A CHEMICAL
REACTION THAT OCCURS
WHEN THE BROKEN SEEDS
COME IN CONTACT WITH WATER.
NOW BY ADDING EITHER
VINEGAR OR WINE TO THE MIX,
MUSTARD MAKERS CAN STOP
THE REACTION IN ITS TRACKS,
LOCKING THE FLAVOR
IN PLACE FOREVER.
NOT ONLY WILL IT BRING
FLAVOR TO THE PARTY,
MUSTARD'S MICROSCOPIC PARTICLES
WILL HELP TO EMULSIFY
THE BACON FAT AND THE VINEGAR,
KEEPING THEM TOGETHER
WHEN THEY HIT THE SALAD.
NOW LET US CONSIDER
ONE OF THE MORE UNUSUAL,
ALBEIT CLASSIC ELEMENTS
IN THIS SALAD,
WHICH TAKES US BACK
TO LANCASTER, PENNSYLVANIA.
ONCE UPON A TIME,
AGARICUS BISPORUS,
THE WHITE MUSHROOM,
WAS CULTIVATED IN CAVES
AROUND AND EVEN IN
THE SEWERS OF PARIS.
THE KNOWLEDGE MIGRATED
EVENTUALLY TO ENGLAND,
AND THEN TO AMERICA, WHERE
MUSHROOM SEEDS, OR SPAWNS,
WERE PERFECTED.
NOW THROUGHOUT THE 19th
CENTURY, THIS ENTIRE AREA
WAS KNOWN FOR FLOWERS,
ESPECIALLY CARNATIONS,
WHICH WERE GROWN
IN LARGE GREENHOUSES.
IN THE 1890s,
A COUPLE OF QUAKER GROWERS
DECIDED TO TRY TO MAKE USE
OF THE AREA BENEATH
THE RAISED CARNATION BEDS.
BURLAP CURTAINS WERE HUNG,
AND MUSHROOMS WERE PLANTED.
WHAT STARTED AS A SIDELINE
BECAME A MAJOR INDUSTRY
MOSTLY BECAUSE
OF THE AREA'S PROXIMITY
TO SEVERAL LARGE CITIES
AND TO RAIL LINES,
WHICH MAKE FAST
SHIPMENT POSSIBLE.
AND THERE WAS AND IS
A LARGE ABUNDANCE
OF HORSE MANURE IN THE AREA
WHICH IS USED
TO PRODUCE THE COMPOST
THAT THE MUSHROOMS GROW IN.
BUT DON'T WORRY. IT'S
PASTEURIZED--DOESN'T EVEN SMELL.
TODAY, PENNSYLVANIA IS
THE UNDISPUTED MUSHROOM CAPITAL
OF THE--OF THE UNITED STATES.
NOW, LET'S SEE--
GERMAN SETTLERS, BACON
DRESSING ON DANDELIONS,
EGGS, ZILLIONS OF MUSHROOMS...
YOU KNOW, IT WAS JUST
A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE...
I BELIEVE THOU'ST
GOT THINE SALAD
IN MY MUSHROOMS.
WELL, I'M SORRY,
BUT I BELIEVE THOU
HAST GOT THY MUSHROOM
IN MY SALAD.
MMM.
(Alton)
BY AND LARGE,
WHEN PURCHASING MUSHROOMS,
YOU WANT TO LOOK
FOR WHOLE SPECIMENS
FREE OF WRINKLES, BRUISES,
WET OR SOFT SPOTS,
AND THEY SHOULDN'T BE SPONGY.
NOW AS FAR AS WHITE
BUTTON MUSHROOMS GO,
REMEMBER, THE GILLS
SHOULD ALWAYS BE CLOSED.
TEMPTING THOUGH THEY MAY BE,
RESIST PRESLICED MUSHROOMS.
ONCE THEY'RE EXPOSED TO AIR,
THE FLESH OF ANY MUSHROOM
GOES DOWNHILL QUICKLY, SO
ANYTHING YOU GAIN IN CONVENIENCE
WILL DEFINITELY
BE LOST IN QUALITY.
OH, A FEW WORDS ABOUT DIRT.
IF YOU DON'T REALLY SEE ANY,
THEN JUST ASSUME
THAT YOUR MUSHROOMS ARE
CLEAN ENOUGH TO USE AS IS.
IF THEY LOOK A LITTLE SCRUFFY,
YOU CAN GIVE THEM A QUICK RINSE
UNDER COLD WATER.
WASHING WILL NOT RESULT
IN A WATERLOGGED MUSHROOM
UNLESS, OF COURSE, YOU GIVE THEM
A VERY LONG, LEISURELY SOAK,
WHICH WE WON'T.
NOW FOR THIS SALAD
WE ONLY NEED FOUR
LARGE WHITE BUTTON MUSHROOMS,
ABOUT DOORKNOB SIZE.
BUT THE REST OF THESE?
UH... THAT'S ANOTHER SHOW.
¶
¶
NOW THE PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH
MAY HAVE ENJOYED DANDELION
SALAD AS A RITE OF SPRING,
BUT YOU KNOW, THAT
WEED'S NEVER GOTTEN MUCH
IN THE WAY OF CULINARY
RESPECT IN THIS COUNTRY,
SO IT MAKES SENSE THAT
THEY WOULD EVENTUALLY
REACH FOR A MORE
ACCEPTED EARLY RISER--
SPINACH, WHICH THE 12th-
CENTURY FOOD WRITER,
IBN AL-AWAM, CALLED
"THE PRINCE OF VEGETABLES."
NOW, SEVERAL TYPES ARE
CULTIVATED IN THIS COUNTRY,
AND ARE AVAILABLE BOTH
IN SPRING AND IN FALL.
LET'S SEE, HERE WE HAVE
THE CRINKLY SAVOY SPINACH.
ONE OF MY FAVORITES--
THERE IS A HYBRID SEMI-SAVOY,
AND THEN, OF COURSE, FLAT LEAF,
WHICH IS GENERALLY AVAILABLE
IN BOTH THE MATURE
AND THE BABY FORMS.
OH, I SHOULDN'T
LEAVE OUT THIS ONE.
THIS IS A RED-VEINED SPINACH.
LOOKS KIND OF LIKE BEET GREENS,
BUT IT ACTUALLY
IS INDEED A SPINACH.
NOW I FIND THAT EITHER
THE SAVOY OR THE SEMI-SAVOY
WORKS BEST IN THIS SALAD
BECAUSE THE LEAVES DON'T REALLY
FALL APART WHEN THEY WILT,
AND THEY DON'T LIE FLAT
AGAINST THE BOWL.
NOW AS FAR AS THE FORM GOES,
I REALLY DO LIKE THEM
JUST LOOSE LIKE THIS,
BUT YOU CAN ALSO GET
THEM IN BUNCHES
AND TRIPLE-WASHED IN BAGS.
BUT, YOU KNOW, I JUST
DON'T TRUST THESE THINGS
BECAUSE WASHING KIND OF
ACCELERATES DECOMPOSITION,
AND THAT CAN BE BLOCKED
BY THE BAG ITSELF,
SO I'LL JUST KEEP
THE WASHING TO MYSELF.
YOU ALWAYS WANT TO LOOK FOR
LEAVES THAT ARE DARK GREEN,
VERY CRISP, AND ARE
FREE OF DISCOLORATION.
ANY SLIMY SPOTS, EXCESS
GOOEYNESS AND WHATNOT
SHOULD BE AVOIDED.
DIRT'S OKAY.
WE'LL DEAL WITH THE DIRT.
SINCE IT'S USUALLY
GROWN IN SANDY SOIL,
SPINACH REQUIRES
A LOT OF WASHING,
AND I DON'T MEAN
JUST A LITTLE SHOWER.
I MEAN A BATH IN WATER
THAT IS DEEP ENOUGH
FOR ANY DISLODGED SAND
TO SINK DOWN
AWAY FROM THE LEAVES.
BIG BATCHES MAY EVEN
NEED A CHANGE OF WATER.
NOW AFTER THE BATH, ANY
SURFACE AGUA ON THE LEAVES
WILL HAVE TO GO.
YOU'RE EITHER GONNA HAVE TO ROLL
THIS ALL UP IN A PAPER TOWEL
OR GO FOR A SPIN.
I REMEMBER THE DAY
THAT I LEARNED ALL ABOUT
CENTRIFUGAL
AND CENTRIPETAL FORCES.
I WAS 4 AND CLINGING
TO A RUNAWAY MERRY-GO-ROUND
PROPELLED BY SOME
OVERZEALOUS THIRD GRADERS.
I DECIDED AT ONE POINT
JUST TO LET GO
AND SUDDENLY FOUND MYSELF FLYING
OFF INTO THE SIDE OF A TRASH CAN
AT MACH TWO.
THE RESULTS HAUNT ME
TO THIS DAY.
OF COURSE, LUCKILY, THESE
FORCES CAN BE USED FOR GOOD.
FOR INSTANCE, MAKING
ASTRONAUT TRAINEES PASS OUT,
DOING BLOOD WORK,
RINGING WATER OUT OF CLOTHES IN
THE SPIN CYCLE, AND OF COURSE,
SPINNING THE WATER
OFF OF GREENS LIKE SPINACH.
NOW THE FORCES THAT
DO THE ACTUAL WORK
WILL BE PROVIDED BY NATURE.
THE MACHINE THAT WILL TAKE
CARE OF THAT, HOWEVER,
WE HAVE TO PROVIDE OURSELVES.
JANE, GET ME OFF
THIS CRAZY THING!
THE SALAD SPINNER IS
REALLY A SIMPLE DEVICE--
JUST A KIND OF PLASTIC
COLANDER THAT FITS
INSIDE A BASE WITH
A LITTLE PIVOT POINT.
THE REAL DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN MODELS
COMES IN THE DRIVE MECHANISM.
NOW THIS ONE HAS A CRANK,
WHICH CAN GET UP A LOT OF SPEED,
BUT IT GETS OUT OF BALANCE AND--
(groans)
NO THANKS.
THIS IS A BIT OF AN IMPROVEMENT,
ESPECIALLY POPULAR
WITH YOU GUYS THAT
LIKE TO MOW THE LAWN.
YOU JUST PULL THIS CHORD,
AND YOU CAN GET A GOOD
BIT OF SPEED, BUT, UH--OH!
WELL, MAYBE WE'LL TRY OUT
THE PLUNGER MODEL NOW.
THIS DOESN'T SEEM TO BE PLAGUED
BY ALL THE OTHER PROBLEMS
THAT THE OTHER MACHINES HAVE.
YOU JUST USE
THE OLD ARCHIMEDES SCREW.
IT'S GOT A NICE
LITTLE BRAKE ON IT.
AND NICE AND DRY GREENS.
NOW LEST YOU THINK
THAT'S A UNITASKER,
YOU CAN ALSO DRY PASTA
IN HERE, AND YES,
THAT IS SOMETHING I WOULD DO.
OUR LAST PIECE OF SOFTWARE
ISN'T EXACTLY TRADITIONAL,
BUT I DO FIND THAT ONE
SMALL RED ONION FRENCHED--
THIS IS,
CUT EXCRUCIATINGLY THIN--
ADDS COLOR AND
AN EARTHY PUNGENCY
THAT HELPS TO HOLD
THE SALAD TOGETHER.
AND NOW WE BUILD...
... GOES INTO A LARGE,
HEAVY, STAINLESS STEEL BOWL
DIRECTLY OVER THE HEAT,
AND THAT IS ON LOW.
YOU JUST WANT TO HEAT THAT UP
UNTIL YOU JUST START TO SEE
A LITTLE BIT OF RIPPLE IN THERE.
THEN WE'RE GONNA WHISK IN...
NOT ONLY WILL THAT ADD FLAVOR,
BUT IT WILL BE A NICE
EMULSIFYING AGENT.
A GOOD BIT OF HEAT'S GONNA
JUST COME UP THE SIDES.
THAT'S GOOD.
WE'RE GONNA USE THAT HEAT.
ADD A LITTLE BIT OF SALT,
A FEW GRINDS OF PEPPER.
GO AHEAD AND KILL THE HEAT.
THERE'S ENOUGH HEAT UP
IN THE SIDE OF THE BOWL NOW.
AND WHEN THAT
STARTS TO LOOK CREAMY,
WE'LL ADD THE SPINACH,
JUST IN HANDFULS,
AND THE ONION ON TOP,
AND THE MUSHROOMS.
HOLD EVERYTHING ELSE OUT.
AND JUST GRAB YOUR
TONGS AND FLIP.
BASICALLY WHAT WE'RE
DOING IS WE'RE COATING,
BUT WE'RE ALSO TRYING
TO MOVE THE HEAT
FROM THE SIDES OF THE BOWL
INTO THE SPINACH,
WILTING IT,
EVER SO SLIGHTLY.
JUST KEEP TURNING.
KEEP TURNING.
KEEP IT MOVING, OR SOME
OF THE LEAVES WILL OVERWILT.
THERE. THAT LOOKS GOOD.
NOW PLATE UP...
AND WE'LL ADD AT THE LAST
MOMENT SOME OF THE EGGS--
I LIKE THEM RIGHT ON TOP--
AND THE BACON.
AND THE ONLY THING MISSING?
A FORK.
¶
MMM.
MMM!
I GOTTA TELL YA,
THIS IS DELICIOUS.
BUT I THINK THE REAL
QUESTION IS,
IS SPINACH REALLY GOOD FOR YOU?
I DON'T THINK THERE'S
ANY REAL WAY TO--
¶
(grunting, choking)
(imitates Popeye's laugh)
(imitating Popeye)
SHIVER ME TIMBERS,
CHECK OUT ALL THESE MUSCLES.
(laughs)
I AM WHAT I AM,
AND WHAT I AM IS RIPPED
IN A KIND OF... WAY
IT IS BECAUSE I EAT SPINACHES,
WHICH IS PACKED WITH IRON
AND CALCIUM.
AND SOME OF THAT OXALIC ACID
WHICH SLOWS THE ABSORPTION
OF THE IRON AND CALCIUM
WHICH KIND OF...
OH...
OH, IT'S HUMILI-FLATIN'.
HAD ALL I COULD STAND, BUT I
COULD HAVE STOOD SOME MORE.
LUCKILY, SPINACH IS STILL
AN EXCELLENT SOURCE
OF VITAMINS A's AND K's
AND POTASSIUMS AND MAGNESIUMS
AND COPPERS AND RIBOFLAVINS
AND NIACINS AND B6
AND CALCIUMS AND PHOSPHOROUS
AND ZINCS AND A LITTLE BIT
OF SOME PROTEINS, TOO,
SO KIDS, YOU GOTS
TO EAT YOUR SPINACH.
(normal voice)
AND DON'T SMOKE!
NOW I DO FEEL
THAT WE HAVE CRACKED
THE CODE FOR WARM SPINACH SALAD,
BUT WHAT IF YOU WANTED
SOMETHING A LITTLE CREAMIER,
SOMETHING COOLER, SOMETHING
THAT MIGHT, I DON'T KNOW,
STAND UP TO A COUPLE
OF HOURS ON THE BUFFET?
WELL, YOU COULD USE THE SAME
INGREDIENTS IN THE SAME AMOUNTS
ONLY WITH A DIFFERENT TECHNIQUE.
WE BEGIN WITH THE EGG YOLKS,
WHICH WE HAVE HARVESTED
FROM OUR HARD-COOKED EGGS.
THOSE WILL GO
INTO A MIXING BOWL,
AND JUST MASH THEM UP
WITH A FORK.
SO WHAT'S WITH THE EGG YOLKS?
WELL, THEY'RE GONNA PROVIDE
BODY, FOR ONE THING,
AND THEY'RE ALSO GOING TO
ACT AS AN EMULSIFYING AGENT
KEEPING THIS DRESSING TOGETHER,
SO IT WON'T SEPARATE
FOR A FEW HOURS.
AND NOW THE VINEGAR.
THERE, AND WHEN IT STARTS
LOOKING NICE AND CREAMY,
SWITCH TO A WHISK,
AND WE'LL ADD THE SUGAR.
AND ADD THE MUSTARD.
THE BACON FAT.
YOU MAY HAVE TO WARM THIS UP
IN THE MICROWAVE A LITTLE BIT
JUST TO MAKE SURE
IT'S LIQUIDOUS.
AND GO AHEAD AND ADD
A LITTLE BIT OF SALT,
A FEW GRINDS OF PEPPER.
THERE WE GO.
AND FOLD IN THE SPINACH.
THEN THE ONIONS,
AND THE MUSHROOMS,
JUST AS BEFORE.
THIS TIME I'M GONNA
USE MY HANDS,
'CAUSE IT'S NOT BURNING HOT.
TOSS THOROUGHLY AND SERVE
TOPPED WITH THE BACON
AND THE EGG WHITES.
WELL, FOOD FANS, I HOPE THAT
YOU HAVE FOUND OUR FIRST
AMERICAN CLASSICS EPISODE
TO BE A TASTY ONE.
AS FOR OUR NEXT EPISODE,
WELL, WE'LL JUST HAVE TO WAIT
AND SEE WHAT ISSUES FORTH
FROM THE GREAT SPINNING
CAGE OF CULINARY CHAOS.
WHATEVER IT IS, REST ASSURED,
IT WILL BE "GOOD EATS."