Everest: Beyond the Limit (2006–…): Season 2, Episode 4 - World Record - full transcript

Narrator: HURRICANE-FORCE WINDS,
SUB-ZERO TEMPERATURES,

MINIMAL OXYGEN.

IT'S NO WONDER
EVEREST HAS CLAIMED THE LIVES

OF OVER 200 PEOPLE.

IT'S A PRIVILEGE TO SURVIVE
THIS LONG, I SUPPOSE.

Narrator: YET THE DETERMINATION
OF THE HUMAN SPIRIT

HAS DRIVEN A TEAM
OF AMATEUR CLIMBERS

TO CHALLENGE
THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN ON EARTH.

OLD GLORY GOING TO THE TOP.

Narrator:
THE WAITING IS OVER.

THE DAY HAS COME.



Narrator: THE TEAM ARE
ON THEIR WAY TO THE SUMMIT.

I'M NERVOUS FROM THE DAY
THAT I START THESE EXPEDITIONS.

Narrator:
BRITISH CLIMBER DAVID TAIT

IS HEADING FOR A WORLD RECORD.

MENTALLY, I BACK MYSELF
WITH EVERYTHING I'VE GOT.

Narrator:
BUT HE'S IN A DEADLY RACE

WITH EVEREST'S VICIOUS WEATHER.

YOU HAVE TO SKIP CAMP 2.

Narrator: AND THE CASUALTIES
ARE MOUNTING.

BUT IF HE WALKS,
HE'LL MAYBE LOSE SOME TOES.

HE'LL MAYBE
LOSE SOME TOES ANYWAY.

[ COUGHS ]

IF YOU'RE NOT SCARED, THERE'S
SOMETHING WRONG WITH YOU.

CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY
DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS



Narrator: 2007 IS EVEREST'S
BUSIEST YEAR ON RECORD.

IT'S DAY 34,

AND THE MOUNTAIN HAS ALREADY
PROVED TOO MUCH FOR SOME.

IT'S A COLD PLACE.

AND I'M NOT EVEN TALKING
ABOUT THE WEATHER ANYMORE.

Narrator: BETSY HUELSKAMP
IS OFF THE SUMMIT TEAM,

AND HER DREAM IS OVER.

WE DON'T THINK THAT YOU GOT THE
STRENGTH TO GO FOR THE SUMMIT.

Huelskamp: I JUST DON'T
EVER GIVE UP ON ANYTHING.

MAYBE IT'S BEST THAT
IT GOT TAKEN OUT OF MY HANDS.

Narrator:
SHE'S NOW A SPECTATOR

AS HER TEAMMATES GET READY
TO LEAVE FOR THE SUMMIT.

Huelskamp:
IN A COUPLE WEEKS' TIME,

SOME OF THESE PEOPLE
AREN'T GONNA BE THE SAME.

SOMETHING BAD'S GONNA HAPPEN
TO SOME OF THESE CHARACTERS.

AND EVEN THE ONES THAT I THOUGHT
I WOULDN'T CARE ABOUT --

I'M STARTING TO CARE
ABOUT EVERYBODY.

AND I THINK, "OH [BLEEP]

I DON'T WANT TO HEAR THAT
DAVID TAIT DIDN'T MAKE IT BACK."

Narrator:
BRITISH BUSINESSMAN DAVID TAIT

IS AHEAD OF THE OTHER CLIMBERS

AND ALREADY ON HIS WAY
TO THE SUMMIT.

HE'S AIMING FOR A PLACE
IN THE RECORD BOOKS

BY CLIMBING EVEREST
FROM BOTH SIDES IN ONE SEASON.

Narrator: DAVID IS GAMBLING
ON A WEATHER FORECAST

THAT PREDICTS THE WINDS
WILL DROP IN FOUR DAYS' TIME.

HE'S TIMING HIS CLIMB
TO REACH THE TOP

AT THE EXACT MOMENT
THE WINDS DISAPPEAR.

THERE'S NO ROOM FOR ERROR.

I'LL TAKE IT ALL OFF.
[ CHUCKLES ]

WHEW, I'M HOT.

[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]

Narrator:
HEAD SHERPA PHURBA TASHI

IS DAVID'S CLIMBING PARTNER
AND AN EVEREST LEGEND.

TOGETHER, THEY'RE TAKING ON
A CHALLENGE SO DARING

IT'S NEVER BEEN TRIED BEFORE...

...THE FIRST DOUBLE TRAVERSE
OF EVEREST.

TO SET THE RECORD, THEY HAVE TO
CLIMB THE MOUNTAIN TWICE.

THEY'RE STARTING
ON THE NORTH SIDE IN TIBET.

WHEN THEY SUMMIT,

THEY'LL DESCEND THE SOUTH SIDE
INTO NEPAL.

AFTER A FEW DAYS' REST,

THEY'LL HEAD BACK
OVER THE MOUNTAIN

TO COMPLETE A WORLD FIRST.

DAVID HAS BEEN HERE BEFORE.

HE SUMMITED EVEREST IN 2005.

Tait:
WHEN I ACHIEVED IT,

IT WAS AN AMAZINGLY
SATISFYING FEELING...

BUT NOT SATISFYING ENOUGH.

Narrator: HE'S PUSHING HIMSELF
TO THE VERY LIMIT

OF HIS SKILL AND COURAGE,

AND HE HAS NO IDEA WHAT
TO EXPECT ON THE SOUTH SIDE.

ANYTHING YOU'VE DONE BEFORE
YOU KNOW YOU CAN DO AGAIN.

IT'S THE UNKNOWN
THAT DOMINATES YOU

AND INTIMIDATES YOU SOMETIMES.

IT'S THE SECOND HALF OF IT.

THAT'S WHERE, GENERALLY,
MY NERVOUSNESS IS COMING FROM.

BUT I THINK THAT, MENTALLY,

I BACK MYSELF
WITH EVERYTHING I'VE GOT.

FROM HERE ON UPWARDS, IT'LL BE A
LITTLE BIT MORE OF A CHALLENGE.

THE TEMPERATURE'S
GONNA DROP SIGNIFICANTLY,

AND THE LACK OF OXYGEN
WILL START TO PLAY

ON PEOPLE'S PHYSICAL
AND MENTAL ABILITIES.

Narrator:
EXPEDITION LEADER RUSSELL BRICE

IS 15 MILES DOWN THE MOUNTAIN
AT BASE CAMP.

LOOK AND SEE.

ARE WE GONNA GO IN ONE PUSH
OR TWO PUSHES?

Narrator: TURNING HIS ATTENTION
TO THE REST OF HIS CLIMBERS,

RUSSELL SPLITS THEM
INTO TWO SUMMIT TEAMS.

THE FIRST HALF
WILL LEAVE TOMORROW,

BUT NO ONE KNOWS YET
WHICH TEAM THEY'RE ON.

I CAN'T GET EVERYONE UP
ON THE SUMMIT ON THE SAME DAY.

AND SO WE'VE TRIED TO WORK OUT
A FAST GROUP AND A SLOW GROUP.

Narrator:
THE FAST TEAM WILL GO FIRST.

Brice: SO THE FIRST GROUP
IS ROD...

DARIUS...

FRED...

Narrator:
AND THERE'S A SURPRISE FOR TIM.

...AND TIM.

[ INDISTINCT TALKING ON RADIO ]

Narrator:
LAST YEAR TIM WAS SO SLOW

IT ALMOST COST HIM HIS LIFE.

IGNORING RUSSELL'S ORDERS,
HE WAS THE LAST TO LEAVE CAMP 4

AND FACED A HUMAN TRAFFIC JAM
ON THE ROPES.

Narrator: FOR TIM,
BEING PROMOTED TO THE FAST TEAM

IS WELCOME NEWS.

MA?

YEAH, I KNOW.
I'M ON A MOUNTAIN.

HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY.

SHE TELLS RUSS THAT IF
I DON'T LISTEN TO HIM THIS YEAR

AND I WON'T TURN AROUND,

HE'S TO PUT HER ON THE PHONE
AND PUNCH HER THROUGH THE RADIO,

AND SHE'S GONNA TELL ME
TO TURN AROUND.

WHO'S TOUGHER, MOM OR RUSS?
THAT'S AN EASY ONE, MAN.

THAT'S MOM.
I DON'T MESS WITH MOM.

[ CHUCKLES ]

Narrator: THE FAST TEAM
ARE LEAVING TOMORROW.

I'M GETTING REALLY ITCHY FEET.

AND THE LONGER I WAIT HERE,
THE MADDER I'M GOING.

GOING UP.
GOING UP.

YOU WANT TO BE CLEAN
WHEN YOU GET UP TO THE SUMMIT.

Narrator: THE COUNTDOWN HAS
STARTED, AND SPIRITS ARE HIGH.

OOH!

[ LAUGHTER ]

WHOO!

WHO'S YOUR DADDY?

THERE'S ONLY SO MUCH YOU CAN DO
AND PLAY WITH IN A TENT.

[ LAUGHS ]

AND I'VE DONE IT ALL.

Narrator: BUT FOR RUSSELL,
THERE'S NO TIME TO RELAX.

THE WEATHER FORECAST
IS CHANGING,

AND HE'S WORRIED
ABOUT DAVID AND PHURBA,

ALREADY ON THEIR WAY
TO THE SUMMIT.

SOUTH SIDE, SOUTH SIDE.

NORTH SIDE.
DO YOU COPY?

Narrator: HE CHECKS THE
CONDITIONS ON THE SOUTH SIDE.

I'M JUST LOOKING
AT THE FORECAST.

IT'S NOT LOOKING
QUITE SO GOOD FOR 16th, 17th.

WHAT DO YOU FEEL?
OVER.

Man: We just got the latest,
and, yeah...

Narrator:
RUSSELL'S MADE PLANS

WITH ANOTHER COMMERCIAL OPERATOR
IN NEPAL

TO HELP WITH DAVID AND PHURBA'S
DESCENT DOWN THE SOUTH SIDE.

MISSED ALL THE SECOND HALF
OF THAT.

DO YOU WANT TO SAY AGAIN?

[ STATIC CRACKLING ]

Narrator: HIGH WINDS HAVE KEPT
CLIMBERS ON THE SOUTH SIDE

PINNED DOWN IN CAMP.

THERE'S A REAL RISK THERE'LL BE
NO SAFETY ROPES IN PLACE

BY THE TIME
DAVID AND PHURBA NEED THEM.

NOW THE WEATHER IS ABOUT
TO CAUSE THEM MORE PROBLEMS.

PHURBA, PHURBA.
DO YOU COPY?

Narrator: RUSSELL'S FORECAST
SAYS THE SUMMIT WEATHER WINDOW

WILL ARRIVE A DAY EARLIER
THAN PREDICTED.

DAVID AND PHURBA MUST CLIMB
FASTER THAN THEY PLANNED.

PHURBA, YOU HAVE TO SKIP CAMP 2.

IF YOU CAN'T DO THAT, THEN...

16th, I THINK, IS TOO WINDY.
OVER.

OKAY. GOOD LUCK AND BE CAREFUL,
AS USUAL. OVER.

Narrator:
TO STAY ON TRACK,

THEY HAVE TO SHAVE A WHOLE DAY
OFF THEIR SCHEDULE.

THEY MUST MAKE
THE FOUR-DAY SUMMIT CLIMB

IN A BACKBREAKING THREE.

EVERYTHING'S RISKY
CLIMBING MOUNT EVEREST.

YOU KNOW?
EVEN IF IT'S A FINE DAY.

SO, YEAH, OF COURSE IT'S RISKY.

IT'S THE GAME
THAT WE'RE PLAYING.

Narrator:
BRITISH BUSINESSMAN DAVID TAIT

IS IN A RACE AGAINST TIME
TO REACH THE SUMMIT.

Tait: VERY CLEAR
WHERE WE GOT TO GET TO.

SO, YEAH.

Narrator: HE NEEDS TO GET TO
THE TOP DURING A PREDICTED GAP

IN THE VIOLENT WEATHER.

JUST DON'T WANT TO GET HOT.

LET'S HOPE
THERE IS SOME WIND THERE.

OTHERWISE, I'M GONNA EXPIRE,
I THINK.

Narrator: WITH HIM
IS HEAD SHERPA PHURBA TASHI.

Tait:
THIS IS THE GAME.

GET ON WITH IT.

Narrator:
TO MAKE THE SUMMIT,

THEY MUST DO THE CLIMB
ONE DAY FASTER THAN NORMAL.

FROM BASE CAMP,

THE REST OF THE EXPEDITION
ARE HEADING UP THE MOUNTAIN

TO MAKE THEIR OWN SUMMIT BIDS.

LET'S GET IT ON.

THE DAY HAS COME.

BE SAFE.
REMEMBER.

VERY SAFE.

I'M NERVOUS FROM THE DAY
THAT I START THESE EXPEDITIONS.

NEVER A DAY GOES BY
THAT YOU'RE NOT NERVOUS.

Narrator: REHEARSALS ARE OVER,
ACCLIMATION IS COMPLETE,

AND THE SUMMIT IS IN SIGHT.

MAGNIFICO.

I AM HERE TO CLIMB MOUNTAIN,
NOT TO ACCLIMATIZE.

SO I AM CLIMBING.
[ LAUGHS ]

Narrator: BUT WHILE THE REST
OF THE TEAM ARE RARING TO GO,

TIM IS ALREADY LAGGING BEHIND.

I FEEL GREAT IN MY LUNGS
COMING UP HERE,

BUT MY LEGS JUST FEEL
REALLY TIRED.

THEY DON'T FEEL AS STRONG AS
THEY DID WHEN I CAME UP BEFORE.

SO I DEFINITELY GOT MY CONCERNS
ABOUT THAT.

Narrator: THRILL-SEEKING
HAS ALREADY ALMOST KILLED TIM.

FOLLOWING A NEAR-FATAL
MOTORBIKE CRASH,

HIS BODY WAS REBUILT WITH METAL.

BUT HIS INJURIES
ARE NOT THE ONLY THING

SLOWING HIM DOWN THIS YEAR.

Medvetz:
MY MIND DRIFTS OFF A LOT.

AFTER NINE DAYS, YOU START
LOSING FOCUS OF THE MOUNTAIN.

MY MIND THESE LAST FEW DAYS

STARTED DRIFTING OFF
TO MY FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

BACK HOME IN AMERICA.

THE ONLY DIFFERENCE THIS YEAR IS
I'M TAKING NAPS ON THE ROCKS

INSTEAD OF THE GLACIER.

Narrator:
WHILE TIM IS DAYDREAMING,

HIS TEAMMATES ARE ARRIVING
AT ADVANCED BASE CAMP.

ADVANCED BASE CAMP
IS THE LAUNCHPAD

FOR THEIR CLIMB TO THE SUMMIT
IN JUST 48 HOURS.

HIGH ABOVE THEM,

DAVID AND PHURBA HAVE PASSED
CAMP 2 WITH NO TIME TO STOP.

AT THIS ALTITUDE,

THEY ARE PUSHING THEIR BODIES
TO THE LIMIT.

Tait:
BRING EVEREST DOWN TO SEA LEVEL,

I MEAN,
MY KIDS COULD RUN UP IT.

BUT IT'S NOT.
IT'S AT ALTITUDE.

AND IT'S VERY COLD,
AND IT TAKES AN AWFUL LONG TIME

TO ACTUALLY GET TO THE POSITION
WHERE YOU CAN CLIMB IT.

AND IT'S BECAUSE
OF THOSE CONDITIONS

IT'S INHERENTLY DANGEROUS.

Narrator:
AFTER NINE GRUELING HOURS,

DAVID AND PHURBA ARRIVE
AT CAMP 3.

THEY'RE BACK ON TRACK TO SUMMIT
IN THE WEATHER WINDOW.

HAVE A LOOK.

THAT'S WHAT I LOOK LIKE
AT THE MOMENT.

Narrator:
DAVID HAS VERY PERSONAL REASONS

FOR WANTING TO CLIMB EVEREST
A SECOND TIME.

Tait: WHAT I HOPE
IS THAT PEOPLE UNDERSTAND

WHY I'M TRYING TO DO IT --

TO RAISE THE AWARENESS, FIRSTLY,

OF THE CHILD ABUSE
THAT GOES ON ALL AROUND US,

AND SECONDLY, TO HOPEFULLY
PROVE TO OTHER CHILDREN THAT,

YOU KNOW, LIFE DOESN'T
HAVE TO COME TO A GRINDING HALT

WHEN SOMETHING APOCALYPTIC
HAPPENS IN YOUR EARLY LIFE --

THAT THINGS CAN MOVE FORWARD,
THAT YOU CAN RECOVER,

AND THAT YOU DO HAVE CHOICES.

YOU SIMPLY HAVE A CHOICE
WHETHER TO STAND UP AND FIGHT

OR CURL UP AND DIE.

Narrator: FOUR HOURS AFTER
THE REST OF HIS TEAMMATES,

TIM STROLLS
INTO ADVANCED BASE CAMP.

YEAH.

BACK.

GREAT TO BE BACK.

[ SHERPA SPEAKING
NATIVE LANGUAGE ]

I TOOK UP THE WHOLE DAY.

BUT I THINK EVERYBODY
KNOWS ME BY NOW.

I LIKE THE IN-BETWEEN STUFF.

SO, I'M READY. ROUND 2.
REMATCH WITH EVEREST.

BAM!

Narrator:
FIVE MILES ABOVE SEA LEVEL,

DAVID TAIT
AND SHERPA PHURBA TASHI

ARE LEAVING CAMP 3.

Narrator:
AT THIS EXTREME ALTITUDE,

THE AIR IS SO THIN
THEY NEED BOTTLED OXYGEN.

[ TAIT COUGHING ]

Narrator: THEY ARE ABOUT
TO ENTER THE DEAD ZONE --

THE TOP 3,000 FEET
OF THE MOUNTAIN,

WHERE THE AIR HOLDS JUST A THIRD
OF THE OXYGEN AT SEA LEVEL.

EVERY MINUTE THEY SPEND HERE,
THEY'RE SLOWLY DYING.

[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]

Narrator: THEIR BODIES
ARE SHUTTING DOWN

AND DIGESTING THEIR OWN MUSCLE
FOR FUEL.

[ COUGHING ]

Narrator:
THEY'RE HEADING FOR CAMP 4,

WHERE A TEAM
OF RUSSELL'S SHERPAS

ARE STOCKPILING OXYGEN BOTTLES.

THE BOTTLES THEY'VE CARRIED UP

WILL BE USED
BY THE EXPEDITION CLIMBERS

ON THEIR WAY TO THE SUMMIT.

IT PAYS TO HAVE,
ON THE HILL WITH YOU,

A KNIFE OR A LEATHERMAN
OR SOMETHING,

'CAUSE QUITE OFTEN THEY COME
WITH THESE CAPS ON THEM.

Narrator: OXYGEN IS A LIFE-SAVER
AT ALTITUDE,

BUT IT'S DANGEROUS
IN UNTRAINED HANDS.

NOT SO MUCH A PROBLEM
TODAY HERE, SITTING IN THE WARM,

BUT WHEN WE GET UP
IN THE COLD --

I MEAN, COMPRESSED OXYGEN
COMES OUT OF HERE REALLY FAST,

COOLS VERY, VERY, VERY RAPIDLY.

[ OXYGEN HISSING ]

SO IF YOU DON'T WANT
INSTANT FROSTBITE --

GLOVES, ALL RIGHT?

YOU WANT TO AVOID ANY GREASE.
BUTTER.

ANYTHING LIKE THAT.

YOU GET INTO THE TOP
OF THE CYLINDER,

YOU GO TO SCREW THE VALVE ON --

YOU CAN CREATE
A SMALL EXPLOSION.

LIP BALM ESPECIALLY.
YEAH.

SO DON'T GO LIKE THAT WITH
YOUR LIP BALM AND THEN GO...

Staples: THIS JUST TELLS YOU
THAT OXYGEN IS FLOWING

TO YOUR MASK.

SO YOU WANT TO KEEP AN EYE
ON THAT,

BECAUSE WHEN YOU PUT THIS
IN YOUR PACK,

YOU GET A WEE KINK IN THERE,
LOOK WHAT HAPPENS.

YOU'RE NOT GETTING ANY OXYGEN.

YOU HAVE TO BE CONCENTRATED
ALL THE TIME

ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE DOING.

EVERY STEP.
NOT JUST CHANGING A BOTTLE.

EVERY STEP IS IMPORTANT.

[ OXYGEN HISSES, STOPS ]

ALL RIGHT.

TURN IT TO 0.5 BEFORE YOU PUT IT
ON -- IS THAT RIGHT?

Narrator: MOST OF THE CLIMBERS
HAVE USED BOTTLED OXYGEN BEFORE,

BUT IT'S THE FIRST TIME FOR ROD,

AND IT MAY TAKE
SOME GETTING USED TO.

Baber:
IT'S VERY CLAUSTROPHOBIC.

AND I CAN'T SEE
WHAT DIFFERENCE IT MAKES.

IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE HERE.

BUT I IMAGINE IT MAKES
A BIG DIFFERENCE UP THERE.

YOU CAN'T DO THAT,
OR YOU'LL DIE WITHOUT IT,

SO IT'S THAT SIMPLE.

Narrator:
DANISH TRIATHLETE MOGENS JENSEN

ISN'T INTERESTED IN THE LESSON.

HE WANTS TO SUMMIT EVEREST
WITHOUT BOTTLED OXYGEN.

BUT HE'S ALREADY FAILED
TO REACH THE SUMMIT THREE TIMES.

YOU SEEM TO BE DOING WORSE
EVERY YEAR THAN THE YEAR BEFORE.

IN SOME WAYS, I THINK
HE'S A LITTLE BIT DELUDED

WITH HIS OWN ABILITY.

SO, YEAH, I WORRY A LOT
ABOUT HIM THIS YEAR.

Jensen: HE'S NOT OVERLY
CONFIDENT I CAN DO IT,

AND, OF COURSE,
I DISAGREE WITH HIM

ABOUT THAT ONE
BECAUSE I'M SURE I CAN.

BUT IT'S HIS JOB TO WORRY.

IF HE DIDN'T CARE, WE'D HAVE
MUCH MORE HAVOC ON THE MOUNTAIN.

SO THAT'S FAIR.

Dr. Piris: CLIMBING WITHOUT
OXYGEN IS UNDOUBTEDLY,

FROM A CLIMBER'S POINT OF VIEW,

THE PURER WAY TO CLIMB
THE MOUNTAIN, PERHAPS.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY AND IN TERMS OF
DANGER, IT'S ABSOLUTELY CRAZY.

IT'S HUGELY DANGEROUS.

Narrator:
CAMP 4 IS THE HIGHEST

AND MOST INHOSPITABLE
CAMPSITE ON EARTH.

IT'S DAVID AND PHURBA'S
LAST STOP BEFORE THE SUMMIT.

Brice: 10-4, 10-4, PHURBA.
COME IN.

PHURBA, WHEREABOUTS ARE YOU NOW?
HOW ARE YOU DOING? OVER.

Narrator:
IT'S 2:00 P.M.,

AND DAVID AND PHURBA HAVE
NINE UNCOMFORTABLE HOURS' REST

BEFORE THEY MUST LEAVE
FOR THE SUMMIT.

THERE'S PHURBA.
SUPERMAN.

EATING ENDLESSLY.
[ CHUCKLES ]

WON'T GIVE ME ANY FOOD.
[ CHUCKLES ]

THIS IS THE REMARKABLE THING,
THOUGH.

BARE FEET.

I JUST DO NOT KNOW HOW.
[ CHUCKLES ]

AND THIS IS ME, PITIFUL OLD MAN,

DRAGGED UP THE MOUNTAIN
BY SUCH PEOPLE AS PHURBA.

AS FOR THE VIDEO DIARY,

THAT'S ABOUT AS MUCH AS YOU GET,
I THINK.

Narrator: DAVID IS ON THE
TOUGHEST CHALLENGE OF HIS LIFE.

BUT COMPARING HIMSELF TO PHURBA,

HE IS SUDDENLY DOUBTING
HIS OWN ABILITIES.

DAVE ACTUALLY CALLED ME.

HE WAS TELLING ME THAT HE WASN'T
GOING TO GO OVER THE SOUTH SIDE

AND WAS GONNA COME BACK

AND THAT HE DIDN'T FEEL WORTHY

TO BE DOING
THIS DOUBLE TRAVERSE.

Narrator:
RUSSELL'S PERSUADED DAVID

TO CARRY ON
TO THE SUMMIT TONIGHT.

HE'LL MAKE
THE FINAL DECISION THERE,

BUT THE HISTORIC DOUBLE TRAVERSE
COULD BE OVER ALREADY.

Narrator:
AT ADVANCED BASE CAMP,

BRITISH CLIMBER ROD BABER IS
MAKING LAST-MINUTE PREPARATIONS

FOR THE SUMMIT ASSAULT.

Baber: THIS IS THE CALM
BEFORE THE STORM.

IN HERE I HAVE GOT
MY FOOT WARMERS. AM I SOFT?

YES.

AM I UTILIZING WHAT MODERN
TECHNOLOGY PROVIDES FOR US?

YES.

IS THAT FORWARD-THINKING?
YES.

DO I CHERISH MY TOES?
YES.

Narrator: HUNDREDS OF CLIMBERS
ARE HEADING FOR THIS SUMMIT,

ALL AIMING
FOR THE SAME BRIEF PERIOD

WHEN THE WINDS
ARE FORECAST TO DROP.

BUT THE MORE PEOPLE GO UP,
THE MORE CASUALTIES COME DOWN.

[ INDISTINCT TALKING ]

[ COUGHING ]

Narrator: FEW TEAMS
HAVE THEIR OWN MEDICS.

EXPEDITION DOCTOR MONICA PIRIS
IS CONSTANTLY ON CALL.

Dr. Piris: OKAY.

Bate: I'M SORRY.

THAT'S ALL RIGHT.

ARE YOU ON YOUR OWN,
OR ARE YOU WITH A COMPANY?

Narrator:
SOLO CLIMBER GAVIN BATE

IS SUFFERING FROM HAPE,

EVEREST'S MOST DEADLY
AFFLICTION.

Dr. Piris: HAPE STANDS FOR
HIGH ALTITUDE PULMONARY EDEMA.

ESSENTIALLY, THE LUNGS
FILL UP WITH FLUID,

AND THEY'RE UNABLE
TO PERFORM THEIR JOB

OF OXYGENATING THE BLOOD
FOR THE REST OF THE BODY.

Brice: BETTER NOW?

Bate: BETTER.

YOU WENT TO THE SUMMIT?

[ COUGHING ]

SECOND STEP.

OKAY.

I CAME DOWN IN ONE GO.

FINGERS OKAY?
TOES OKAY?

YEAH.
I WAS CLIMBING WITH A SHERPA.

THAT GUY SAVED MY LIFE, MAN.

AND HE JUST KNEW IT --

"YOU'RE DONE FOR."

AND HE JUST --
HE TOOK ME DOWN.

GOOD.

Narrator: HAPE CAN EVEN HIT
THE MOST EXPERIENCED CLIMBERS

AT ANY TIME.

I'VE BEEN CLIMBING
A LONG TIME,

SO YOU SORT OF GET USED
TO THINGS LIKE THAT, BUT...

DAMN.

THAT WAS A HARD CALL
THIS MORNING.

LAST NIGHT BEFORE I WENT UP,
I JUST DIDN'T FEEL RIGHT.

BUT I CARRIED ON.

BUT THEN SUDDENLY, JUST VERY
QUICKLY, I WAS HYPOTHERMIC.

I COULD FEEL THE BODY CORE
TEMPERATURE DROPPING.

I COULD FEEL THE LETHARGY
THAT COMES ALONG WITH IT,

JUST COMPLETELY NOT CARING
WHAT WAS HAPPENING

AND WHAT I WAS GOING TO DO.

AND THEN, OF COURSE,
YOUR MARBLES START TO GO.

IT'S ALMOST LIKE BEING DRUNK,
REALLY.

THERE'S A PART OF YOUR BRAIN
WHICH KNOWS, "WELL, THIS IS IT."

NO ONE'S GONNA HELP YOU
UP THERE, AND NOR SHOULD THEY.

UNLESS YOU'VE GOT MASSES
OF RESOURCES UP THERE,

YOU GO UP THERE
WITH THE FULL KNOWLEDGE

THAT IF SOMETHING HAPPENS,

THEN YOU LIVE WITH THE
CONSEQUENCES OR DIE WITH THEM.

AND I THOUGHT THAT'S WHAT WAS
GONNA HAPPEN TO ME THIS MORNING.

I REALLY DID.

YOU LOOK PRETTY GOOD,
CONSIDERING.

IT'S A LONG WALK.

YEAH, I KNOW.

DONE IT A FEW TIMES.

[ LIGHT LAUGHTER ]

COME HAVE A BREW
TOMORROW.

Dr. Piris: COME SEE US
TOMORROW MORNING.

YOU'RE A STAR.
THANK YOU.

THANKS FOR YOUR TIME.
CHEERIO.

Narrator: GAVIN'S LIFE
WAS SAVED BY A SHERPA.

LAST YEAR, SO WAS TIM'S.

MY FRIEND LAKPA.
LAKPA SHERPA.

YOU NEED THE SHERPAS.

WITHOUT THEM,
WE WOULDN'T BE HERE.

NOT TO MENTION
I LOVE THEIR FOOD, SO...

[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]

Narrator: AS THE CLIMBERS REACH
THE HIGH CAMPS,

THEY LOSE THEIR APPETITE.

BUT THEIR NEED
FOR CALORIES INCREASES.

CHICKEN. CREAM OF CHICKEN.
TOMATO.

MOST CLIMBERS RESORT
TO HIGH-CALORIE PACKAGED FOODS,

BUT NOT TIM.

FIVE DINNER.

LAKPA DOESN'T LIKE NOODLE SOUP.
I LIKE NOODLE SOUP.

I CAN'T BRING NOODLE SOUP
BECAUSE HE WON'T EAT IT.

BUT WE EAT FULL MEALS
THE WHOLE WAY UP.

SO, WHAT I'LL DO IS HAVE
OUR ABC COOK, TA SHI --

HE'S GONNA BOIL UP SOME YAK
MEAT, AND WE'LL MAKE BIG STEWS.

SO IT WORKS OUT PRETTY GOOD.

OOH!

WHOO!

CAMP 2. CAMP 3.
DINNER, DINNER, DINNER.

Man: YES.

[ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]

NO. NO. NO GOOD.

SO WE GOT A LITTLE BIT
OF A PROBLEM HERE.

IF ME AND LAKPA GET SICK,
THERE'S NO --

WE HAVE NO SUMMIT.

SO WE'LL HAVE TO TURN AROUND.

SIMPLE LITTLE MISTAKE
LIKE HAVING BAD FOOD

CAN END YOUR WHOLE EXPEDITION,
SO, NOT GOOD.

Narrator:
RUSSELL HAS NEVER LOST A CLIMBER

ON ANY OF HIS 14 EXPEDITIONS,

BUT THERE ARE NO GUARANTEES
ON EVEREST.

Brice: IT DOESN'T MATTER THAT
WE TRY TO PREPARE EVERYTHING.

THINGS CAN GO WRONG.
SOMETIMES PEOPLE COULD DIE.

Narrator:
IT'S 11:00 P.M.

DAVID AND PHURBA
ARE LEAVING CAMP 4.

Tashi:
ALL RIGHT, DAVID.

Narrator:
THEY'RE JUST SEVEN HOURS BELOW

THE SUMMIT OF EVEREST.

Narrator:
THEY'LL CLIMB THROUGH THE NIGHT

TO REACH THE TOP AT DAWN

AND GIVE THEMSELVES
AS MUCH DAYLIGHT AS POSSIBLE

FOR THE DANGEROUS DESCENT.

AT 3:15 A.M.,

THEY REACH
THE TREACHEROUS SECOND STEP --

A 100-FOOT CLIFF
ON THE SUMMIT RIDGE

WITH SHEER DROPS
ON EITHER SIDE.

WITHOUT THE LADDERS,
THIS ROUTE IS NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE.

Tait:
JUST COMPLETED SECOND STEP.

Brice: THANK YOU.

Narrator: AS OTHER EXPEDITIONS
TAKE THEIR CHANCES

IN TODAY'S BRIEF WEATHER WINDOW,
CROWDS ARE FORMING.

Narrator: THEY'RE NOW
JUST ONE HOUR FROM THE SUMMIT.

Narrator: BUT DAVID IS
SANDBAGGED BY THE ALTITUDE.

HIS BODY IS USING 1,000 CALORIES
AN HOUR --

AS MUCH AS A MARATHON RUNNER --

BUT HE'S MOVING
AT A SNAIL'S PACE.

[ TAIT COUGHS ]

Narrator:
GASPING FOR BREATH,

HE'S FALLING
FURTHER BEHIND PHURBA.

SOMETHING IS VERY WRONG.

STARVED OF OXYGEN,
DAVID'S VISION IS GOING,

AND IN HIS CONFUSED STATE,
HE HASN'T REALIZED THE CAUSE.

HIS OXYGEN IS RUNNING OUT.

Narrator:
PHURBA REALIZES THE PROBLEM

AND QUICKLY CHANGES
DAVID'S OXYGEN BOTTLE.

[ TAIT BREATHING HEAVILY ]

[ OXYGEN HISSING ]

[ HISSING STOPS ]

Tashi: YEAH, YEAH.

Narrator: A SIMPLE MISTAKE THIS
HIGH COULD COST DAVID HIS LIFE.

THEY'RE NOW ON THE FINAL PUSH

TO REACH THE HIGHEST POINT
ON THE PLANET.

Narrator:
ONE AND A HALF MILES BELOW,

RUSSELL ANXIOUSLY WAITS
FOR NEWS.

[ INDISTINCT TALKING ON RADIO ]

YEAH.
HI, PHURBA.

HEY! SUMMIT.

SUMMIT! SUMMIT!

DAVID AND PHURBA!

6:00 A.M.

15th OF MAY, 2007.

I MUST SAY
I AM A LITTLE JEALOUS.

PERFECT DAY.
PERFECT WEATHER.

CONGRATULATIONS FOR YOUR SUMMIT.

AND DAVID...

HOW ARE YOU DOING, DAVID?

Narrator: DAVID IS STANDING
ON THE SUMMIT OF EVEREST

FOR THE SECOND TIME.

Baber:
THAT IS FANTASTIC.

BUT REMEMBER, DAVID'S GOT TO GET

ALL THE WAY DOWN
TO THE OTHER SIDE,

AND HE'S GOT TO GET
ALL THE WAY BACK UP AGAIN

AND ALL THE WAY BACK DOWN HERE.

HE'S A QUARTER OF THE WAY
THROUGH IT.

Narrator: ON TOP OF THE WORLD,
DAVID'S DOUBTS DISAPPEAR.

HE'S MADE UP HIS MIND.

HE'S GOING TO CONTINUE
WITH THE CHALLENGE.

Brice: YEAH, I WAS LITTLE BIT
APPREHENSIVE THERE

FOR A LITTLE WHILE.

THEY AT LONG LAST DECIDED
TO CONTINUE OVER THE HILL.

I'M PRETTY PLEASED
THAT HE'S DONE THAT.

Narrator: DAVID AND PHURBA
MUST NOW MAKE THEIR WAY DOWN

BEFORE THE WINDS RETURN.

[ SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE ]

Narrator: PHURBA HAS COMPLETED
HIS 11th SUMMIT

FROM THE NORTH SIDE,

BUT HE'S NEVER SET FOOT
ON THE SOUTH SIDE.

AND THERE'S BAD NEWS.

NOBODY HAS MADE IT UP THE SOUTH
SIDE, AND THERE ARE NO ROPES.

AND WITH NO ROPE TO FOLLOW,
PHURBA MUST ASK DIRECTIONS.

Narrator:
MORE PEOPLE THAN EVER

ARE ATTEMPTING TO REACH
THE SUMMIT OF EVEREST.

AND AT ADVANCED BASE CAMP,

THE CASUALTIES ARE LIMPING
OFF THE MOUNTAIN.

I KNOW HE CAN WALK,

BUT IF HE WALKS,
HE'LL MAYBE LOSE SOME TOES.

Man: OH, YEAH.
OKAY?

HE'LL MAYBE LOSE
SOME TOES ANYWAY.

Narrator: THIS JAPANESE CLIMBER
HAS SEVERE FROSTBITE

AND NEEDS DR. MONICA'S HELP.

WARM ALREADY?
YEAH?

FINGERS.
BAD.

FINGERS BAD.

NOT GOOD.
MAYBE LOSE SOME FINGERS.

SEVERE FROSTBITE WOULD MEAN

THAT THE AFFECTED FINGER
HAD BEEN FROZEN

FOR SUCH A LONG TIME
THAT THE TISSUE,

INCLUDING THE BONE,
WAS IRRECOVERABLE.

SO IT DIES, BASICALLY,

AND IN TIME WILL FALL OFF
OR NEED TO BE CUT OFF.

Narrator: HIRO, ONE OF RUSSELL'S
GUIDES, HAS BEEN TRANSLATING.

CAN'T FEEL ME TOUCHING?

[ MAN SPEAKING JAPANESE ]

NO?

HERE?

CLOSE EYES.

OKAY.

SAY "YES"
IF YOU FEEL ME TOUCHING.

HAI.

HAI.

IF YOU HAVE
ANTISEPTIC --

YOU HAVE FIRST-AID KIT?
NO.

NO FIRST-AID KIT?
NOTHING?

YEAH, BUT IT'S COLD UP THERE,
YOU KNOW?

LEGS NOT WARM ENOUGH.
FEET GET COLD.

TOES FALL OFF.
YOU KNOW?

Narrator: THIS CLIMBER
HAS PAID A HIGH PRICE

FOR UNDERESTIMATING EVEREST.

IT'S AT LEAST TWO WEEKS BEFORE
YOU CAN EVEN BEGIN TO DECIDE

WHAT TISSUE'S GONNA BE VIABLE
AND WHAT ISN'T.

Narrator:
AT ADVANCED BASE CAMP,

L.A. BIKER TIM IS WATCHING OTHER
TEAMS HIGH ON THE MOUNTAIN.

Medvetz: WELL, ABOUT
QUARTER TO 6:00 THIS MORNING,

GOT WOKEN UP TO POTS AND PANS
BEING SLAMMED,

AND IT WASN'T
THE BREAKFAST CALL.

IT WAS OTHER TEAMS SUMMITING.

SO, THE ADVANCED BASE CAMP
WAS PRETTY LOUD THIS MORNING.

NO, I'VE JUST GOT ITCHY FEET.
I WANT TO GO NOW.

WE'LL GET ANOTHER
WEATHER REPORT TODAY.

AND IF IT'S ALL LOOKING GOOD,

WE'LL BE OFF TOMORROW MORNING
OR TOMORROW AT LUNCHTIME.

Medvetz:
MORE PEOPLE THAT GET UP THERE,

THE LESS PEOPLE
THAT WILL BE ON THE ROPES

WHEN IT'S TIME
FOR OUR SUMMIT PUSH.

RIGHT NOW THERE'S A GUY
BY THE THIRD STEP.

DEFINITELY SOMETHING GOING ON.

Narrator: THE CLIMBER IS BARELY
500 FEET BELOW THE SUMMIT

AND LOOKS TO BE ON HIS OWN.

WELL, THERE'S SOME BLOKE
THAT'S BEEN SITTING THERE FOR,

I DON'T KNOW, ABOUT AN HOUR NOW,
DOING NOTHING.

[ COUGHS ]

AND THAT CAN'T BE A GOOD THING.

'CAUSE THE LONGER
YOU'RE UP THERE,

THE LESS CHANCE YOU'VE GOT
OF GETTING BACK DOWN.

Woodward:
JAPANESE GENTLEMAN COLLAPSED.

CEREBRAL EDEMA, I GATHER.

HAVING SOMEBODY COLLAPSE
LIKE THAT UP THAT HIGH

IS DEFINITELY
YOUR WORST NIGHTMARE AS A GUIDE.

IF YOU CAN'T GET THEM UPRIGHT
AND MOVING,

YOU'RE NEVER GONNA DRAG THEM.

HORRIBLE AS IT IS TO SAY,

THERE MIGHT ONLY BE
SO MUCH YOU CAN DO.

AND IF THAT'S NOT ENOUGH,

THEN YOU MIGHT EVEN
HAVE TO LEAVE THEM BEHIND.

AND IT'S HAPPENED IN THE PAST,
AND IT'LL HAPPEN AGAIN.

Medvetz:
HOPEFULLY THE JAPANESE CLIMBER

TURNS OUT TO BE A LITTLE BETTER
NEWS THAN WE GOT RIGHT NOW.

OTHERWISE, WE'LL BE
PASSING HIM UP ON THE ROPES.

THAT'S THE REALITY.

NOTHING OFFICIAL
OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT YET.

SO, YEAH, I WOULD GATHER
THAT WOULD BE THE FIRST DEATH

FROM THE NORTH SIDE THIS YEAR.

[ INDISTINCT TALKING ]

Brice: IT'S GONNA BE ON SUMMIT
DAY WHEN EVERYTHING GOES WRONG

AND PEOPLE COULD DIE.

YEAH, IT'S A TENSE TIME.

YOU'RE WONDERING WHETHER
EVERYTHING'S IN THE RIGHT PLACE.

THIS IS NOT A PLACE
THAT YOU CAN MAKE A MISTAKE

WITH DECISIONS TOO MANY TIMES.

EVERYTHING'S GOING OKAY,

AND THEN SOMETHING
TOTALLY DIFFERENT

THAT YOU DON'T EXPECT TO SEE --
NOTHING TO DO WITH YOU --

JUMPS OUT AT YOU.

YOU JUST NEVER KNOW WHEN THESE
THINGS ARE GOING TO HAPPEN.

Medvetz: JUST SITTING HERE,
ALL FOUR OF US,

WAS KIND OF NICE KNOWING THAT,
LOOK TO MY LEFT AND TO MY RIGHT,

THE GUYS WHO ARE GONNA BE
RIGHT NEXT TO ME ON THE ROPES.

AND I FEEL THAT THE TEAM

HAS DEFINITELY PULLED CLOSER
TOGETHER THAN HOW WE STARTED.

AND THAT'S A GOOD THING,

BECAUSE YOU CAN'T CLIMB
THIS MOUNTAIN ALONE.

Narrator: THEY ARE
ABOUT TO TAKE ON EVEREST,

AND THE STAKES
COULDN'T BE HIGHER.

Medvetz:
I DON'T FEAR NO MAN,

BUT I DEFINITELY FEAR
THIS MOUNTAIN.

THIS MOUNTAIN DECIDES WHETHER
YOU MAKE IT TO THE TOP OR NOT.

I'VE SEEN FIRSTHAND THE EFFECTS

OF WHAT THIS MOUNTAIN
IS CAPABLE OF.

THIS MOUNTAIN TOOK
11 LIVES LAST YEAR

AND TOOK A LOT OF BODY PARTS
AND TOES AND FINGERS.

SO, YEAH.
I GOT MY CONCERNS.

Baber: THE MOOD HAS CHANGED
IN THE LAST COUPLE OF DAYS.

IT DEFINITELY HAS.

AND OF COURSE PEOPLE ARE WORRIED

IF THEY'RE GONNA COME BACK DOWN
IN ONE PIECE.

IT'S THE FEAR OF THE UNKNOWN
WHICH IS PROBABLY

WHAT'S REVEALING ITSELF TO US
AT THE MOMENT.

BUT, YEAH, IF YOU'RE NOT SCARED,

THERE'S SOMETHING WRONG
WITH YOU.

PHURBA TASHI, PHURBA TASHI.
DO YOU COPY?

[ TAIT COUGHS ]

Narrator: DAVID AND PHURBA HAVE
BEEN ON THE SUMMIT FOR ONE HOUR.

THEY NEED TO GET MOVING.

THEY MUST DESCEND THE SOUTH SIDE

USING TRADITIONAL
CLIMBING TECHNIQUES.

THEY'LL ROPE
THEMSELVES TOGETHER,

AND IF ONE FALLS,
THE OTHER MUST TRY TO SAVE HIM.

Brice: PHURBA TASHI.
PHURBA TASHI, DO YOU COPY?

PHURBA TASHI, PHURBA TASHI.
DO YOU COPY?

Narrator: AS THEY DROP
BEHIND THE MOUNTAIN,

DOWN THE SOUTH SIDE, THEIR RADIO
SIGNAL STARTS TO BREAK UP.

PHURBA TASHI, PHURBA TASHI.
DO YOU COPY?

COMMUNICATION ISN'T PARTICULARLY
GOOD ON THE SOUTH SIDE,

SO WE MIGHT NOT HAVE
VERY GOOD COMMUNICATION AT ALL.

Narrator: DAVID AND PHURBA
ARE NOW COMPLETELY ON THEIR OWN.

STEPPING INTO THE UNKNOWN,

PHURBA PRAYS
TO THE MOUNTAIN GODS.

[ TASHI SPEAKING
NATIVE LANGUAGE ]

Narrator: NEXT TIME, THE BRUTAL
TRUTH ABOUT CLIMBING EVEREST...

IF YOU WANT TO GO AND DIE
ON THE MOUNTAIN,

IT'S NOT THE SHERPA'S JOB
TO DIE WITH YOU.

Narrator: ...DAVID TAIT'S
SELF-DOUBT RETURNS...

SOUNDS AS THOUGH DAVE'S
NOT THAT KEEN TO BE COMING BACK.

Narrator: ...AND ALTITUDE
AND ATTITUDE COLLIDE.

Brice:
YOU WANT TO GET TO THE SUMMIT,

[BLEEP] GET
YOUR [BLEEP] TOGETHER, MAN.

Medvetz: ANYBODY TALKED TO ME
THE WAY HE TALKS TO ME --

BACK IN L.A.
HE'D BE ON THE GROUND, PERIOD.