Everest: Beyond the Limit (2006–…): Season 1, Episode 2 - The Gatekeeper - full transcript
It's the best weather for years on Everest and normally cautious Russ decides to gamble on a secret early summit. He spots a weather window in two weeks time but his Sherpas will have to work flat out to put the necessary tents and oxygen in place and his climbers will have to stay uncomfortably high to complete their acclimatisation in time. For some climbers it's bad news - they don't look ready. As the weather window approaches, Russ makes up his mind to go for it, but it's a close call. The two summit teams are announced and there's no going back.
Narrator:
LAST TIME ON "EVEREST" --
DEATH ON THE MOUNTAIN.
ONE OF OUR SHERPAS DIED.
[ Voice breaking ] ANYWAYS,
LET'S GET ON --
GET ON WITH THE JOB
OF GETTING UP THE MOUNTAIN.
Narrator:
NOW L.A. FIREMAN BRETT MERRELL
STRUGGLES FOR BREATH
AND FIGHTS FOR HIS DREAM.
THIS IS BRUTAL.
Narrator:
ASTHMATIC CLIMBER MOGENS JENSEN
PROVES HE'S THE STRONGEST
AND FASTEST.
HEY, BOYS.
DOUBLE AMPUTEE MARK INGLIS
HAS A MECHANICAL BREAKDOWN.
BLOODY CLIENT'S
BROKEN HIS LEG.
OH, BUGGER,
WHAT DID WE DO WRONG?
WHAT AM I GONNA DO?
Narrator: AND TIM MEDVETZ,
THE BIKER FROM L.A.,
FALLS BEHIND THE SUMMIT TEAM
AND RUSSELL'S PATIENCE.
HE'S A LOSS TO YOU GUYS,
NOT TO ME.
BAM!
HE'S NOT IN THE TEAM.
Terry: OPEN YOUR MOUTH,
OPEN YOUR MOUTH.
Man: BREATHE, BREATHE.
BREATHE.
SPIT IT OUT. GOOD.
SPIT IT OUT. SPIT.
Narrator: EVEREST EXPEDITION
DOCTOR TERRY O'CONNOR
TRIES TO SAVE AN UNKNOWN CLIMBER
FROM DYING OF CEREBRAL EDEMA.
WHEN I FIRST SAW HIM
AND DID MY INITIAL ASSESSMENT,
I THOUGHT HE WASN'T
GONNA MAKE IT.
THE FIRST THING IN YOUR MIND IS,
"THIS IS A DEAD MAN."
Bill: HE WENT FROM BASICALLY
STANDING TO FULLY CRUMPED OVER
TO UNCONSCIOUS
IN ABOUT 15 MINUTES.
SPIT!
SPIT!
HE DIDN'T EVEN GROAN,
DIDN'T EVEN RESPOND.
I MEAN, HE WAS THAT FAR GONE.
WE'RE BUILDING A STRETCHER,
AND WE'RE GONNA
GET HIM DOWN THE HILL A.S.A.P.
GUYS, GO AHEAD
AND GET YOURSELF SET UP.
LET'S GET GOING.
Russell: IF YOU'RE COMING
TO CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST,
YOU SHOULD MAKE A VERY FIRM
DECISION IN YOUR MIND
THAT THERE IS A CHANCE TO DIE.
EVERYONE THAT'S HERE --
FILM CREW, SHERPAS,
GUIDES, CLIENTS --
THEY ALL HAVE A RISK FACTOR
THAT SOMETHING COULD GO WRONG.
[ MONITOR BEEPING ]
Narrator: THE NEXT MORNING, THE
CLIMBERS GET TERRY'S PROGNOSIS.
THAT WAS KIND OF
AN INTERESTING DAY.
HAD AN INDIAN THAT WAS SUFFERING
FROM CEREBRAL EDEMA.
SPENT THE NIGHT, WOKE UP IN
THE MORNING, WENT INTO A COMA.
DEFINITELY HAVE OUR CONCERN --
HAVE MY CONCERNS.
YOU COME UP HERE
AND SPEND THE NIGHT.
YOU KNOW, WHAT HAPPENS
WHEN YOU WAKE UP?
ANYWAY, IT'S ALL PART
OF CLIMBING EVEREST.
Narrator:
ADVANCED BASE CAMP --
NEARLY FOUR PAINFUL MILES
ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
FOR MORE THAN A MONTH,
THIS IS HOME SWEET HOME.
THIS SEASON THERE ARE MORE THAN
600 CLIMBERS, THE MOST EVER.
EACH WAITS FOR
THE TWO-WEEK WEATHER WINDOW
TO OPEN THE WAY TO THE SUMMIT.
MMM.
OKAY.
THANK YOU.
GOOD MORNING.
GOOD MORNING.
HERE'S COFFEE.
OH, THANK YOU.
Man:
NICE START TO THE DAY.
Man: MORNING, MAX.
MORNING.
ABC, 21,000 FEET --
MY HOME AWAY FROM HOME.
ALMOST THERE, MA.
TAKE A LOOK.
UP THERE, THERE'S THE SUMMIT.
IT'S A LITTLE CLOUDY, BUT YOU
CAN KIND OF SEE IT A LITTLE BIT.
Narrator:
TIM AND BRETT HAVE CARVED
A PIECE OF PRIME REAL ESTATE
FOR THE CALIFORNIA CONTINGENT.
I'M IN THE AMERICAN GHETTO
RIGHT NOW.
WE GOT TWO TENTS,
TWO AMERICANS SIDE BY SIDE,
AND WE'RE
NEXT TO THE FREEWAY HERE.
IT'S THE SHERPA TRAIL ON THEIR
WAY UP AND DOWN THE MOUNTAIN
AT 2:00 IN THE MORNING.
Tim: USA, BABY!
THAT'S MY NOISY NEIGHBOR TIM.
I GOT NEIGHBORS, RIGHT?
Narrator:
EX-HELLS ANGEL TIM MEDVETZ
CUSTOMIZES HOGS
FOR THE HOLLYWOOD A-LIST.
ALMOST KILLED BY A CYCLE CRASH,
HIS BROKEN BONES
HAVE BARELY MENDED
WHEN HE JOINS THE TEAM
AT KATHMANDU.
I'VE HAD TO CALL THE COPS ON HIM
A COUPLE TIMES ALREADY.
THAT'S BRETT OVER THERE.
HE'S MY NEIGHBOR.
HE'S BUILDING THIS OUTLANDISH
CONDO OVER THERE.
Tim: THERE'S MY MATTRESS,
MY VITAMINS.
THAT'S MY LITTLE KITCHEN AREA
AND MY KNIFE HANGING
ON THE CEILING.
YOU GOT TO HAVE A KNIFE.
THE PLACE IS JUST A CESSPOOL.
IT'S A MESS.
MMM, BACON SANDWICH,
A LITTLE SALAMI, AND CANDY BARS.
SPEAKING OF CESSPOOL,
THE URINAL'S LIKE 5 FEET
ON THE OTHER SIDE OF HIM.
I'M THINKING ABOUT PUTTING
THE PLACE UP FOR SALE.
YOU GOT TO CUT YOUR LOSES
AND GET THE HELL OUT OF HERE
WHILE YOU CAN.
Narrator:
THE FIVE-DAY CLIMB TO THE SUMMIT
LEADS FROM
THEIR CURRENT POSITION AT ABC
VIA OVERNIGHT STOPS
AT CAMPS 1 TO 4.
BUT NO ONE'S GOING ANYWHERE
UNTIL SHERPAS RIG OVER
THREE MILES OF SAFETY ROPES
TO THE SUMMIT.
6 BOYS, 1,200 METERS OF ROPE.
THERE'S 200 METERS APIECE,
SO THEY HAVE 2 COILS EACH.
IT'S AMAZING, HUH?
Narrator: RUSSELL'S OLD FRIEND
AND HEAD SHERPA IS PHURBA.
HE ACTUALLY MAKES MORE DECISIONS
THAN I DO.
PHURBA AND I FIRST WERE FIXING
ROPES TOGETHER IN THE OLD DAYS.
YOU ALWAYS USED TO LEAVE
THE ROPE WITH ME LAST, BAD BOY.
PHURBA AND THE CREW CARRY
ALMOST HALF THEIR BODY WEIGHT
WORTH OF ROPES AND GEAR
TO THE SUMMIT.
OH, THAT'S HEAVY.
THESE ARE NOT BOYS.
THESE ARE SUPERMEN.
Russell: HOW'D YOU LIKE TO GO
TO THE SUMMIT WITH THAT?
NO, THANK YOU.
THAT'S HEAVY.
I'M GONNA TURN THE OXYGEN ON
BEFORE I COLLAPSE.
Narrator:
IT'S NOT UNUSUAL FOR ONE SHERPA
TO LOAD A HALF-DOZEN
OXYGEN BOTTLES IN HIS BACKPACK,
WHILE OTHERS HOIST COILS
OF SAFETY ROPE.
Mogens: THESE ARE THE REAL
HEROES OF THE MOUNTAIN,
THE SPINE
OF EVERY EXPEDITION.
Russell:
I'M CONCERNED ABOUT EVERYONE
BECAUSE THEY'RE LIKE MY FAMILY,
YOU KNOW.
IT'S LIKE HAVING SIX SONS
GOING TO THE SUMMIT TODAY.
SO I'M INCREDIBLY WORRIED
ABOUT THESE PEOPLE.
Narrator: WHERE THEY'RE GOING,
NO ONE CAN COME TO THE RESCUE.
AFTER ONE SHERPA DEATH
THIS SEASON,
RUSSELL CAN'T STOP WORRYING.
Russell: BE SAFE.
Narrator: THE INDIAN CLIMBER
HAS REGAINED CONSCIOUSNESS.
BUT HIS NEAR DEATH SHOWS
EVERYONE HOW EVEREST CAN KILL.
HE SUFFERS THE EFFECTS
OF HIGH-ALTITUDE CEREBRAL EDEMA.
HIS BRAIN HAS SWOLLEN SO MUCH,
HIS EYES BULGE,
AND HE'S ON THE VERGE
OF MULTIPLE ORGAN FAILURE.
I'M JUST GLAD HE LOOKS MUCH,
MUCH BETTER THAN YESTERDAY.
Brett: TO SEE A BIG EXPEDITION
COME UP HERE LIKE THAT
AND BE SO TOTALLY UNPREPARED
TO DO RESCUE
ON ONE OF THEIR OWN MEMBERS --
THEY DIDN'T HAVE ANY OXYGEN.
THEY DIDN'T HAVE ANY MEDS.
I MEAN, IF IT WASN'T FOR
RUSSELL, THAT GUY WOULD BE DEAD.
FOLLOW FINGER DOWN.
Terry: THANKFULLY
WE HAD THE RIGHT RESOURCES.
CERTAINLY IF HE HAD
STAYED UP THERE MUCH LONGER,
HE WOULD HAVE DIED.
YEAH, THERE'S NO DOUBT
IN MY MIND.
LOOK UP.
HE'S STABLE HERE, BUT ALWAYS
GET BETTER IF YOU GO DOWN.
WELL, THERE ARE
THREE REMEDIES --
DESCENT, DESCENT, AND DESCENT.
Narrator:
THE CLIMB DOWN FROM ABC
STARTS NEARLY FOUR MILES
ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
THE ATMOSPHERE HERE
IS TOO THIN FOR HELICOPTERS.
SO IT'S UP TO SHERPAS TO MEDEVAC
THE VICTIM FOOT BY FOOT
DOWN 14 MILES OF ROCKY TRAILS.
Bill:
I DON'T THINK THERE'S ANYBODY
THAT HAS THE INFRASTRUCTURE,
THE COMMUNICATIONS
THAT WE HAVE --
AND THEN,
IF SOMETHING DOES GO WRONG,
THE INFRASTRUCTURE IN PLACE
TO ACTUALLY EVACUATE SOMEBODY
TO KATHMANDU IN ABOUT 18 HOURS,
WHICH IS PRETTY MUCH UNHEARD OF.
Narrator: AS THE MAN DISAPPEARS
DOWN THE MOUNTAIN,
TIM WONDERS IF HIS DAYS
AT ABC ARE NUMBERED.
Tim: ANOTHER BAD NIGHT.
IT'S PROBABLY THE WORST I'VE HAD
LAST NIGHT -- BRUTAL.
I THOUGHT I WAS GONNA JUST
COUGH UP MY WHOLE FRICKIN' --
ALL MY ORGANS INSIDE.
[ COUGHING ]
Narrator:
HIS COUGH IS SO VIOLENT,
HE COULD CRACK HIS RIBS.
WHILE TIM BATTLES BRONCHITIS,
THE SHERPAS
CONTINUE THEIR STRUGGLE
TO FIX SAFETY LINES
TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD.
TO GET THERE, PHURBA AND THE MEN
MUST PENETRATE THE DEATH ZONE,
A HIGH-ALTITUDE KILLING GROUND
AT 26,000 FEET.
Terry:
WHAT DOES THE DEATH ZONE MEAN?
I THINK, GENERALLY SPEAKING,
IT'S A PLACE THAT THE HUMAN BODY
COULD NOT SURVIVE FOR VERY LONG.
YOU DO NOTHING
BUT BREAK DOWN OUR OWN TISSUE.
WE'RE DOING NOTHING
BUT STARVING,
AND THERE'S ONLY SO LONG
THAT WE CAN DO THAT.
DO I THINK STAYING UP
IN THE DEATH ZONE
FOR MORE THAN A COUPLE DAYS
IS A GOOD IDEA?
NO, PROBABLY NOT.
Narrator: SHORT AND WIRY,
SHERPAS ARE EVOLVED
TO LIVE AT HIGH ALTITUDE.
THEIR HEARTS ARE MORE EFFICIENT
THAN WESTERNERS',
AND THEIR BLOOD
ABSORBS MORE OXYGEN.
BUT EVEN THEY CAN EASILY PERISH
IN THE DEATH ZONE,
WHERE TEMPERATURES DROP
TO 40 DEGREES BELOW ZERO.
IF THE MOUNTAIN
TURNS ON THEM HERE,
ALL RUSSELL CAN DO
IS WATCH THEM DIE.
Russell: I'M VERY, VERY ANXIOUS
FOR THESE BOYS.
THEY'RE DOING A HARD,
DANGEROUS JOB,
AND THINGS CAN GO WRONG EASILY.
Narrator: EXPEDITION SHERPAS
ATTEMPT SOMETHING
NEVER DONE SO EARLY
IN THE EVEREST SEASON --
LAYING A SAFETY LINE TO THE
SUMMIT ON THE LAST DAY OF APRIL.
SO, THEY'RE PRETTY MUCH ON TIME
TO BE ON THE SUMMIT
PROBABLY ABOUT 1:00 TODAY.
Narrator: THE SHERPAS WILL FIX
OVER 17,000 FEET OF LINE
TO THE MOUNTAIN.
IT'S A LONG WAY FOR THEM TO COME
DOWN, SO STILL WORRY A LOT NOW.
[ MAN LAUGHS ]
YEAH, HI, PHURBA.
PRETTY EMOTIONAL TIME FOR THEM.
I'M PRETTY PROUD OF THEM.
I'M SURE THEY'RE PROUD.
YOU WANT US TO SEND SOME TEA UP
FOR YOU GUYS?
[ LAUGHTER ]
Narrator:
A FEW HOURS LATER,
PHURBA REPORTS HIS TEAM
HAS PASSED SAFELY
DOWN THE DEATH ZONE
AND ARE ON THEIR WAY
BACK TO ABC.
DO YOU KNOW WHAT'LL HAPPEN WHEN
YOU ASK THEM SOMETHING ABOUT IT?
THEY'LL SMILE AT YOU
AND NOD.
Mogens: YOU HAVE TO GO BACK
AND LOOK AT THE OLD R.E.M. SONG
WHERE THEY TALK ABOUT STANDING
AT THE SHOULDERS OF GIANTS.
THE GIANTS
ARE UP NEAR THE SUMMIT NOW.
WE'RE JUST DWARFS.
THAT'S THE WAY IT IS.
HOW COME YOU ALWAYS
EXPRESS YOURSELF SO WELL?
DON'T KNOW.
I'M A ROMANTIC GUY.
YOU'RE A ROMANTIC GUY,
ARE YOU?
[ COUGHING ]
Narrator: BUT TIM'S
IN TOO MUCH PAIN TO CELEBRATE.
TO HEAL HIS BRONCHITIS,
THE MOTORCYCLE DESIGNER DESCENDS
14 MILES LOWER TO BASE CAMP,
WHERE THE AIR IS THICKER.
IT'S PRETTY WARM DOWN THERE,
FROM WHAT I HEAR.
SO I'VE GOT MY BATHING SUIT
AND MY SUNTAN LOTION IN HERE.
I'M SORRY THAT IT'S COME
TO THIS.
BUT, I MEAN, HE'S BEEN SUFFERING
FOR THE LAST TWO OR THREE DAYS.
Narrator: TIM'S FALLEN BEHIND
THE TEAM, AND AS THE GATEKEEPER,
RUSSELL DOUBTS HE'LL MAKE
THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT.
Russell: BUT THEN AGAIN,
TIM'S ALL OUT OF SEQUENCE,
SO HE'S NOT PLAYING VERY HARD
TO TRY AND GET INTO SEQUENCE.
HE'S ALWAYS, EVERY SINGLE DAY,
NOT GONE ON THE DAY
THAT OTHER PEOPLE WENT.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT HIS GAME IS.
HOW ARE YOU DOING?
[ COUGHING ]
BETTER THAN YOU.
HE'S A LOSS TO YOU GUYS,
NOT TO ME.
SEE YOU FOR THE SUMMIT PUSH,
BROTHER.
HAVE A GOOD WALK DOWN.
I'LL TALK TO YOU LATER.
AS FAR AS I'M CONCERNED,
HE'S A LOT OF HARD WORK
FOR ME TO GET HIM TO THE SUMMIT
AND BACK DOWN.
TERRY,
THANKS FOR EVERYTHING.
Terry: TAKE CARE OF YOURSELF
ON THE WAY DOWN.
BE SAFE.
BE SAFE UP THERE.
MAX, LATER.
Narrator: THIS SEASON,
THE WEATHER ON EVEREST
IS THE BEST IN LIVING MEMORY,
AND RUSSELL IS TEMPTED TO START
THE SUMMIT PUSH TWO WEEKS EARLY.
THEY PUT IT ALL INTO A COMPUTER
MODEL AND PUMP IT ALL OUT
AND GIVE IT TO ME
IN A LITTLE, SIMPLE GRAPH.
YOU GOT TO READ THAT AND ALSO
WHAT'S HAPPENING OUTSIDE.
Narrator: RUSSELL IS
A WEATHER JUNKIE.
HE CHECKS THE FORECAST EVERY
SIX HOURS, BUT NOT FOR KICKS.
AN UNEXPECTED WIND OR DROP IN
TEMPERATURE COULD KILL HIS TEAM
IF THEY'RE CAUGHT IN THE OPEN.
WE'RE PUTTING A LOT OF FAITH
IN THIS TECHNOLOGY.
Narrator: SO RUSSELL GETS THE
BEST HIGH-TECH WEATHER REPORTS
MONEY CAN BUY,
AND WHAT THEY'RE TELLING HIM NOW
IS PRICELESS.
SO, THIS LINE HERE
IS THE SUMMIT,
AND WE'RE LOOKING AT SUMMIT DAY
ON THE 12th AND 13th.
THAT GIVES LESS US WIND,
AND THEN AS WE GET BACK DOWN
OFF THE MOUNTAIN,
IT GOES UP AGAIN
DURING THE NIGHT,
AND THEN THE NEXT DAY,
IT DROPS DOWN AGAIN
AS WE GO TO THE SUMMIT.
Bill:
SO, THEY'RE ALL SINGLE DIGITS,
DOUBLE DIGITS A LITTLE BIT.
Shaun: THAT'S PERFECT.
Narrator: THE REPORT
PREDICTS FIVE CLEAR DAYS
FOR THE SUMMIT PUSH
IN TWO WEEKS' TIME.
RUSSELL'S ORIGINAL PLAN
WAS TO SUMMIT IN A MONTH,
BUT HE'S CONVINCED HIS TEAM CAN
BE READY FOR AN EARLY WINDOW.
Russell:
WELL, IT'S ALWAYS A GAMBLE,
BECAUSE WE'RE LOOKING
AT THE WEATHER FORECAST
FOUR OR FIVE DAYS AWAY.
OF COURSE IT'S A GAMBLE.
Narrator:
THE STAKES ARE HIGH.
THE CLIMBERS MUST PUSH
THEIR BODIES HARDER
TO ACCLIMATE IN TWO WEEKS
INSTEAD OF FOUR.
12 EXPEDITION SHERPAS MUST
DELIVER TWO TONS' WORTH OF GEAR
TO THE FOUR HIGHER CAMPS
ON THE WAY TO THE SUMMIT,
ALL IN TWO SHORT WEEKS.
SO WILL YOU GET OXYGEN LOADS
FOR TOMORROW?
Russell: NOW WE'VE GOT
130-SOMETHING BOTTLES OF OXYGEN
TO SHIFT, AND 90 TENTS.
THE FASTER WE CAN GET THAT UP,
THE FASTER WE CAN GET UP
ON THE MOUNTAIN.
Narrator:
NO OTHER EXPEDITION LEADER
CAN MATCH RUSSELL'S EXPERIENCE
AND WEATHER SAVVY.
SO THE SECOND RUSSELL'S TEAM
DEPARTS ABC FOR THE SUMMIT,
LESS-EXPERIENCED GROUPS
WILL FOLLOW.
IF THE COMPETING EXPEDITIONS
JUMP AHEAD OF RUSSELL'S,
HIS CLIMBERS COULD BE CAUGHT
IN A DEATH ZONE TRAFFIC JAM.
THIS IS PART OF THE LOGISTICS
ON THE MOUNTAIN.
YOU LOOK AROUND THIS CAMP,
THERE'S 600-SOMETHING PEOPLE
ALL WANTING TO GO
TO THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT EVEREST.
Narrator:
RUSSELL'S CLIENTS MUST PROVE
THEY'RE TECHNICALLY COMPETENT
AND HAVE CLIMBED
AT LEAST 24,000 FEET.
BUT STANDARDS ARE NOT AS HIGH
ON OTHER EXPEDITIONS,
AND RUSSELL'S
NOT THE ONLY LEADER
WORRIED ABOUT THE CLIMB AHEAD.
I DON'T WANT TO PUT, LIKE,
A BAD FEELING OVER THE CAMP,
BUT I GOT A FEELING
THAT THERE'S GONNA BE
SOME BAD THINGS HAPPEN
THIS YEAR
'CAUSE THERE'S JUST
TOO MANY PEOPLE ON THE MOUNTAIN.
Narrator:
IT TAKES 10 LONG HOURS
FOR TIM TO GO 14 MILES
DOWN TO LOWER BASE CAMP,
WHERE THE AIR
CONTAINS 30% MORE OXYGEN.
OH, MAN,
YOU GUYS ARE BRUTAL.
YOU GUYS
ARE LIKE THE PAPARAZZI.
Tim: I GOT BACK AROUND 8:00
AT NIGHT AND COUGHING, HACKING.
SHE'S THROWING EVERYTHING AT ME,
EVERYTHING.
THAT'S WHY I'M HERE, RIGHT?
Narrator: BUT UNLESS TIM
CAN HEAL HIMSELF SOON,
HIS SUMMIT DREAM WILL END
ON THE BUS BACK TO KATHMANDU.
MOUNT EVEREST
IS 5 1/2 MILES HIGH,
THE CRUISING ALTITUDE
OF JUMBO JETS.
BUT FOR ALL ITS SIZE,
THE FINAL TRAIL TO THE TOP
IS BARELY WIDE ENOUGH
FOR ONE MAN TO PASS AT A TIME.
I RECKON YOU CAN PROBABLY
PUT ABOUT 60 PEOPLE A DAY
UP ON THE SIDE.
IF YOU'VE GOT LOTS
AND LOTS OF PEOPLE
HOGGING THE ROPES
AND GOING SLOWLY,
THEN THAT'S A BIG PROBLEM.
Narrator: NOT LONG AGO,
RUSSELL WOULD KNOW EVERY GUIDE
AND LEADER HERE BY NAME.
BUT THOSE DAYS ARE GONE.
THERE'S SO MANY TEAMS HERE,
THEY'VE ALL BLENDED
INTO EACH OTHER.
AND I REALLY, REALLY
DON'T EVEN KNOW WHO'S WHO.
Narrator: IT'S CRUCIAL
THE PLAN TO SUMMIT EARLY
IS KEPT SECRET
FROM THE OTHER EXPEDITIONS.
Russell:
I'M NERVOUS, VERY NERVOUS,
BECAUSE TELL OTHER PEOPLE,
THEN EVERYONE COMING WITH US,
TELL NOBODY, THEN WE HAVE
THE MOUNTAIN TO OURSELF.
JUST JUGGLING AROUND
A LITTLE BIT
AND UTILIZING THE WEATHER
AND THE TIMING OF USING
THE SHERPAS AND THINGS LIKE THAT
TO MAKE IT LOOK AS THOUGH
WE'RE A LITTLE BIT CALM HERE
AND MAYBE A LITTLE BIT LAZY.
Narrator:
RUSSELL ACTS LIKE A LAID-BACK
LEADER TO FOOL THE COMPETITION.
YEAH, BILL?
MEANWHILE HE'S RUSHING
SHERPA TEAMS UP THE MOUNTAIN
WITH SUPPLIES.
SO, WE MUST GET CAMP 2
AND CAMP 3
AND AS MUCH OXYGEN,
EVERYTHING UP.
ONE FIRST AID KIT
AND ONE SPARE MASK AND REGULATOR
AND SPARE OXYGEN
AT EACH CAMP
SO IF SOMETHING GOES WRONG,
YOU CAN GET FROM EACH CAMP DOWN.
BUT LET'S GET THAT CAMP
BEFORE OTHER PEOPLE DO.
THE CLIMBERS WILL START THEIR
SUMMIT ATTEMPT IN FOUR DAYS
AND MUST PREPARE THEIR BODIES.
THEY CLIMB UP FROM ABC
TO ACCLIMATE OVERNIGHT
AT CAMP 1, NORTH COL.
IT'S A BACKBREAKING
2,000-FOOT VERTICAL TREK.
RUSSELL WILL WATCH EACH MAN
LIKE A HAWK
TO DECIDE
WHO WILL BE ALLOWED TO SUMMIT.
SO, THERE ARE CUTOFF TIMES
THAT WE START LOOKING AT TODAY,
AND PEOPLE NEED TO BE PERFORMING
A BIT BETTER THAN THEY HAVE
ON MAYBE SOME
OF THE OTHER TRIPS.
IF YOU'RE NOT AT NORTH COL
BY 2:00 -- THAT'S FIVE HOURS.
IF YOU'RE NOT UP THERE
IN FIVE HOURS,
YOU'RE NOT DOING TOO WELL.
Woman:
WHAT HAPPENED LAST TIME?
Narrator:
ACCLIMATION HAS NOW RAISED
EACH MAN'S RED BLOOD CELL COUNT
BY 50%
TO MAXIMIZE THEIR OXYGEN INTAKE.
BUT THEY STILL FEEL SICK
MOST OF THE TIME.
Terry: IT'S PRETTY AMAZING
WHAT THE BODY CAN DO
TO ADJUST FOR OUR SILLY BEHAVIOR
OF DECIDING TO COME UP HERE
AND LIVE WHERE THERE'S 50%
OF THE OXYGEN THAT WE HAVE
AT SEA LEVEL.
TA-DA!
FOR MY NEXT TRICK,
I WILL VOMIT INTO THE SNOW.
CARRYING A BIG LOAD TODAY.
HOPEFULLY THAT DOESN'T
KICK MY BUTT TOO BAD.
IT'S PROBABLY 35 POUNDS.
Narrator: AT 9:00 A.M., RUSSELL
AND BILL, HIS HEAD GUIDE,
SCORE THE CLIMBERS
AS THEY STRUGGLE UP.
THIS IS BRUTAL.
YOU KNOW, YOU JUST CAN'T
CATCH YOUR BREATH.
IT'S KICKING MY BUTT
MORE THAN I THOUGHT IT WOULD.
Narrator:
BRETT CAN ALMOST FEEL RUSSELL'S
EYES GLUED TO HIS BACK.
THIS IS HIS SECOND ATTEMPT
AT EVEREST.
IF HE FAILS TO REACH NORTH COL
IN TIME,
BRETT COULD BE DROPPED
FROM THE TEAM.
I THOUGHT
I WAS GONNA JUST BREEZE UP.
WELL, I TAKE THAT BACK.
Russell: IT'S MORE ABOUT THE
MIND THAN IT IS ABOUT PHYSIQUE.
MAYBE THAT'S PART OF THE THING
WITH BRETT
IS AT HOME HE'S ONE
OF THE REAL TOUGH FIREMEN,
BUT HERE
HE'S JUST A MERE MORTAL.
Narrator: TWO HOURS INTO
BRETT'S CLIMB, MOGENS SETS OFF.
BUT HE SOON PASSES THE FIREMAN
FROM L.A.
AND IS CATCHING UP
WITH THE REST OF THE TEAM,
INCLUDING CAMERAMAN MARK WHETU.
Mark: CAN YOU TELL ME
HOW FAST YOU'RE GOING?
ABOUT 2 1/4 HOURS FROM ABC.
SO, YOU DECIDED
TO TAKE YOUR TIME TODAY.
AH, IT HAPPENS.
[ LAUGHS ]
Russell: I THINK
IT'S GREAT FOR MOGENS.
HE'S READY TO ROLL.
I THINK GET UP THERE
AND BACK DOWN QUICK.
YEAH.
I FEEL CONFIDENT.
Narrator: MOGENS IS
A 30-YEAR-OLD SCHOOLTEACHER
AND DENMARK'S
ONLY PROFESSIONAL MOUNTAINEER
IN A COUNTRY WITH NO MOUNTAINS.
HIS EVEREST TRAINING INCLUDED
TREKKING 10 MILES A DAY
WITH 150 POUNDS OF WATER
IN HIS PACK.
MOGENS HAS CHRONIC ASTHMA
BUT IS DETERMINED
TO TEST HIMSELF AGAINST EVEREST
WITHOUT BOTTLED OXYGEN.
Mogens: I WOULD LIKE TO SEND OUT
THE MESSAGE TO OTHER ASTHMATICS
THAT EVEN THE SUMMIT
OF MOUNT EVEREST IS WITHIN REACH
AND POSSIBLE FOR AN ASTHMATIC --
WITHOUT OXYGEN, EVEN.
Narrator: AS MOGENS AND
THE OTHERS PUSH ON TO NORTH COL,
TIM TRIES TO HEAL HIS LUNGS
AT BASE CAMP 6,000 FEET BELOW.
Tim: OH, NOW.
LITTLE SLIGHT CASE
OF BRONCHITIS.
I'VE STARTED SOME ANTIBIOTICS.
THAT'S ABOUT IT, THOUGH.
KEEP A LOT OF FLUIDS IN YOU
AND GRIN AND BEAR IT.
Narrator:
TIM MUST BEAT HIS BRONCHITIS,
RETURN TO ADVANCE BASE CAMP,
AND ACCLIMATIZE AT NORTH COL,
JUST LIKE THE OTHER CLIMBERS,
OR THE GATE
WILL SLAM SHUT ON HIM.
[ COUGHING ]
FIVE MILES UP MOUNT EVEREST,
EXPEDITION SHERPAS
TAKE A POUNDING
AS THEY READY
HIGH CAMPS 2 AND 3.
HEY, TASHI DELE!
HOW ARE YOU?
Narrator: IF PHURBA'S TEAM
CAN BUILD ALL FOUR HIGH CAMPS
TWO WEEKS AHEAD OF SCHEDULE,
RUSSELL'S CLIMBERS WILL BE ABLE
TO BEAT THE OTHER TEAMS
TO THE SUMMIT.
IT'S A LOT OF HARD WORK FOR
THE SHERPAS, AND WE'VE BEEN HERE
AND WE'VE BEEN WORKING OUR
BOLLOCKS OFF SINCE WE ARRIVED.
WE CAN'T GO ANY FASTER.
THE SHERPAS THAT FIXED THE ROPE
HAVE BEEN HERE
FOR OVER 45 DAYS NOW,
WORKING, WORKING,
WORKING ALL THE TIME.
Narrator: RUSSELL'S PUSHING
THE CLIMBERS, TOO,
SENDING THEM UP TO THE NORTH COL
TO ACCLIMATE AT 23,000 FEET
IN HALF THE NORMAL TIME.
Man: EVERYBODY'S GOT A BIT
OF A HEAVIER LOAD TODAY,
IT SEEMS LIKE, BOB.
ONE OF THE BIGGEST SURPRISES
IS A 62-YEAR-OLD FRENCHMAN.
Russell:
VERY FIT, STRONG MAN.
THEN WE FOUND OUT
ABOUT THE CANCER,
AND I WAS PREPARED
TO GIVE HIM HIS MONEY BACK,
AND IT'S HIS DECISION TO GO
AND HAVE THE OPERATION,
THEN COME HERE.
Narrator: TWO MONTHS AGO,
GéRARD BOURRAT HAD A CANCEROUS
KIDNEY REMOVED THROUGH HIS GUT
INSTEAD OF HIS BACK TO ALLOW HIM
TO CARRY MOUNTAIN GEAR.
LET'S GO!
I'M GLAD I'M GONNA BE THERE
VERY SOON,
AND I CAN LOOK FORWARD
TO LAYING DOWN
AND LISTENING TO OTHER PEOPLE
COUGH AND SNORE.
Narrator:
MAX IS A LEBANESE BUSINESSMAN
FROM WAR-TORN BEIRUT.
MAX HAS SUMMITED THE HIGHEST
MOUNTAINS ON EVERY CONTINENT,
AND HIS SIGHTS
ARE NOW FOCUSED ON EVEREST.
RUSSELL SEES MAX
AS THE HYPERACTIVE TYPE.
Russell:
HE JUST HAS TO STOP
RUNNING AROUND
LIKE A DOG EVERYWHERE.
HE DOESN'T HAVE TO PEE
IN EVERY CORNER, YOU KNOW?
Narrator:
INSTEAD OF PACING HIMSELF,
MAX IS STUCK IN HIGH GEAR.
Russell:
DESPITE ALL THESE OTHER THINGS,
HE'S DONE ALL THE EASY ONES,
BUT HE HASN'T REALLY LEARNED
MOUNTAIN SENSE
'CAUSE HE NEEDS TO STOP
BOUNCING OFF THE WALLS
AND JUST CONSERVE HIS ENERGY
AND THINGS LIKE THAT.
GOT TO GET GOING.
Man: THANKS, MAX.
Narrator:
MOGENS REACHES NORTH COL
NEARLY THREE HOURS
UNDER RUSSELL'S FIVE-HOUR LIMIT.
MAX, GéRARD, AND THE OTHERS
SET OFF TWO HOURS BEFORE HIM
BUT ARRIVE AFTER.
ONLY ONE MAN IS MISSING.
WHY IS THE LAST PART OF THE
CLIMB IS ALWAYS THE STEEPEST?
Man: THAT'S BECAUSE YOU'RE
ON MOUNT EVEREST, MATE.
I'M FEELING IT.
THIS IS KICKING MY BUTT,
BUT THERE'S THE OBJECTIVE
RIGHT UP THERE.
Narrator:
AT CAMP 1 ON NORTH COL,
THE FIREMAN FINALLY APPEARS
JUST FIVE MINUTES
BEFORE THE DEADLINE.
Brett:
I WAS BRINGING UP THE REAR.
I FIGURED I'D CRUISE IN,
NO PROBLEM, MAN.
IT WAS COLD AND WINDY.
OH, BABY.
LUCKILY THE GUYS
THAT HAD LEFT EARLY
HAD ALREADY STARTED BREWING.
BOILED SOME NOODLES
AND SETTLED IN.
Man:
HOW WAS THE HIKE, BRETT?
THE HIKE?
PIECE OF CAKE, MAN.
JUST FIGURED I'D COME UP HERE
ALL BY MY LONESOME,
BE THE LAST ONE INTO CAMP,
MAKE SURE IT WAS NICE AND COLD
AND SNOWING.
BUT I MADE IT.
HI.
Man: HI.
Narrator: AS THE TEAM PREPARES
TO RETURN TO ADVANCED BASE CAMP,
PHURBA AND THE SHERPAS DROP DOWN
FROM THE HIGHER CAMPS
WITH SOME GOOD NEWS.
Man:
HEY, HUBBA, HUBBA.
WELL DONE.
Man: YOU THINK YOU'RE CLOSE NOW
TO BEING READY?
FEW MORE TRIPS?
[ SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY ]
RIGHT.
HEY!
[ INDISTINCT TALKING ON RADIO ]
Narrator: PHURBA'S SUCCESS IS
RADIOED DOWN TO RUSSELL AT ABC.
SO, IF THEY ARE SUCCESSFUL IN
GETTING THAT UP TO THE TOP CAMP,
WE'RE READY TO ROLL.
Narrator: WITH THE HIGH CAMPS
ALMOST READY,
RUSSELL AND HIS GUIDES
TOAST TO THE SHERPAS...
[ INDISTINCT TALKING ]
...AND ASSESS EACH CLIMBER'S
PERFORMANCE.
Russell: SO, IF WE HAVE BRETT,
MOGENS, AND TIM,
AND TIM'S
THE UNKNOWN CHARACTER HERE.
Narrator: AS THE CLIMBERS RETURN
FROM NORTH COL TO ABC,
BIG TIM WANTS
TO GET BACK IN THE GAME
FROM BASE CAMP 4,000 FEET BELOW.
Tim: IT'S KIND OF NICE DOWN HERE
AT BASE CAMP, THOUGH,
I GOT TO ADMIT,
BUT YOUR MIND STARTS WANDERING,
AND YOU START THINKING,
"THE REST OF THE TEAM'S UP TOP.
I'M DOWN HERE."
BASE CAMP TO RUSS.
COME IN.
Narrator: TIM RADIOS RUSSELL,
BEGGING FOR A SHOT AT NORTH COL
SO HE CAN QUALIFY
FOR THE SUMMIT PUSH.
HEY, RUSS,
JUST WANTED TO CONFIRM.
I'M HEADING UP,
FEELING GOOD.
Haven't lost the cough yet,
still got it.
I'M GONNA JUST TAKE IT EASY
COMING UP
if that's good with you.
IT'S YOUR DECISION.
Man: WHO'S THAT?
THAT'S TIM COMING BACK.
I SPOKE TO TIM ON THE WAY UP
AND SAID,
"WELL, YOU'VE ALWAYS BEEN
OUT OF SEQUENCE."
FIRST DAY WE GO UP,
HE'S GOING TO SLEEP.
WELL, COME ON, TIM, SHOW US
THAT YOU CAN DO SOMETHING.
IT SEEMS TO BE
THE STORY OF MY LIFE.
JUST MORE ODDS
STACKED UP AGAINST ME.
NEXT TIME WE'RE GOING UP, HE
WANTS TO GO DOWN TO BASE CAMP.
SO I SAID, "WELL, YOU'RE GOING
THE WRONG DIRECTION.
WE'RE GOING UP,
AND YOU'RE GOING DOWN."
THE WHOLE TEAM'S MOVING UP.
I DON'T WANT TO FALL
THAT FAR BEHIND.
I THINK HE'S OFF THE MARK.
AND BY THE TIME HE COMES BACK,
HE'S GOING TO BE KNACKERED
AGAIN.
TRY AND STICK WITH THE PROGRAM.
I DIDN'T HEAR NO BELL YET, SO...
I'M GOING UP.
Narrator: TIM'S DETERMINED
TO PROVE HIMSELF.
BUT TO RUSSELL,
IT'S TOO LITTLE TOO LATE.
Russell: I'M NOT REALLY PREPARED
TO TAKE HIM.
HE'S NOT IN THE TEAM.
Narrator: TIM HAS LEFT THE OTHER
CLIMBERS HIGH UP THE MOUNTAIN
AND DROPPED DOWN TO LOWER BASE
CAMP TO RECOVER FROM BRONCHITIS.
Man:
GOOD LUCK, MAN.
NOW HE'S FEELING BETTER
AND HEADS BACK TO ABC
TO PLEAD WITH RUSSELL
FOR A CHANCE AT THE SUMMIT.
Tim: I HAVE A FULL STOMACH,
ATE PRETTY WELL.
ANYWAY, STILL GOT THE COUGH,
BUT I'M WELL RESTED.
TWO DAYS DOWN HERE
AT 5,200 METERS
DEFINITELY WAS
EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED.
THE ONLY DRAG IS
I GOT TO GO ANOTHER 14 MILES
TO GET BACK UP
TO THE REST OF THE CREW.
DON'T COUNT ME OUT YET.
BELL DIDN'T RING.
WHEN I COME DOWN,
I'LL SEE YOU ON THE OTHER SIDE.
Man:
SEE YOU, TIM. GOOD LUCK.
Narrator:
TIM HEADS UP TO CONVINCE RUSSELL
TO LET HIM CLIMB
AS HIS TEAMMATES DESCEND
FROM CAMP 1 AT NORTH COL.
[ COUGHING ]
Max: I WONDER WHETHER WE'RE ALL
ACCLIMATIZED TO DO THIS,
BUT HOPEFULLY
WITH FOUR DAYS' REST AT ABC
WE'LL BE READY TO GET ON HIGHER.
Narrator: THE CLIMBERS
HAVE SHOCKED THEIR BODIES
INTO PRODUCING
MORE RED BLOOD CELLS,
AND NOW THEY RETURN
TO ADVANCED BASE CAMP
TO COMPLETE THE PROCESS.
AND THEN IT'S JUST A MATTER OF
WAITING BEFORE BIG BOSS,
RUSSELL BRICE, SAYS GO.
Narrator: RUSSELL HAS STAKED HIS
REPUTATION AND SUMMIT ATTEMPT
ON A WEATHER WINDOW DUE TO OPEN
ON THE 12th AND 13th OF MAY.
Russell:
BEEN LOOKING AT THE WEATHER.
YEAH, I THINK I'M STILL ROLLING
FOR THIS 12th, 13th.
IT IS A GAMBLE.
Narrator: BRETT IS ONE
OF THE FIRST TO REACH ABC.
BUT MARK IS STOPPED
IN HIS TRACKS.
Man:
SO, TELL US YOUR STORY, MATE?
BLOODY CLIENT'S BROKEN HIS LEG.
WHAT AM I GOING TO DO?
Narrator: THIS IS ONE CLIMBING
ACCIDENT RUSSELL CAN ENJOY.
HAVE TO PULL ANOTHER ONE
OUT OF THE BARREL.
I'M JUST GOING TO PULL
ANOTHER ONE OUT OF THE BARREL,
TAKE A FEW NUTS AND BOLTS UP,
AND STRAP IT ON AGAIN.
Narrator:
RUSSELL WILL SEND A SHERPA UP
WITH A SPARE LEG FOR MARK.
Russell:
HE'S GOING TO GET A RIGHT LEG
AND TAKE IT BACK TO THE BOTTOM
OF THE FIXED ROPES.
Man: WOULD YOU CONSIDER CARRYING
A SPARE LEG FROM NOW ON?
IN THE MEANTIME, MARK'S GOING TO
HOP DOWN TO THE BOTTOM.
BLOODY CLIENT.
Brett: I DIDN'T HAVE THE ENERGY
TO GO BACK UP
AND HELP COWBOY AND BOB.
YEAH, WE'VE GOT A BROKEN LEG
IN THE TEAM.
WHAT?!
HE'S GOT A BROKEN LEG.
[ LAUGHTER ]
OH. YEAH.
YOU HAD ME
FOR A SECOND.
I KNOW WHAT'S GOING ON,
AND YOU STILL GOT ME.
ALL RIGHT, I'M DELIRIOUS.
I'M GONNA GO EAT.
Narrator: MARK'S
NOT THE ONLY WALKING WOUNDED
HEADED FOR ADVANCED BASE CAMP.
Tim: 30 MILES ROUND TRIP
OVER ROCK AND ICE,
20,000 FEET WITH A CRACKED RIB.
DOING GOOD, A LITTLE HUNGRY.
YOU KNOW, IN MY OPINION,
HE'S ALREADY MAKING HIS EXCUSES
AS A NICE WAY OUT,
THAT, "YEAH,
THIS IS TOO HARD FOR ME."
OR, "I CAN'T DO IT BECAUSE I'VE
GOT THIS AND THAT AND THINGS."
[ MAN SHOUTS INDISTINCTLY ]
YO, MY L.A. BROTHER.
SOLD?
ALL RIGHT.
WHO SOLD MY TENT?
I DON'T KNOW.
PROBABLY RUSSELL.
SON OF A BITCH.
Brett: THERE'S MY NEIGHBOR TIM
THAT I'M GOING TO SUE.
I THINK I'M GOING TO START COURT
PROCEEDINGS TOMORROW, ACTUALLY.
HE'S ACTUALLY USING
THE AMERICAN GHETTO
COMMUNITY URINAL RIGHT NOW,
WHICH IS REALLY IMPRESSIVE.
HEY, NEIGHBOR,
HOW YOU DOING OVER THERE?
YEAH,
I'LL SEE YOU IN COURT, PAL.
HE'LL BE LONG GONE
PRETTY SOON.
Narrator: RUSSELL'S CREW
HAS BEEN SNOOPING AROUND
TO SEE WHAT THE OTHER
EXPEDITIONS ARE UP TO.
Russell:
SEVEN SUMMITS. WHAT DAY?
YEAH,
JUST TELL ME THE OTHER TEAMS.
YEP, OKAY,
THANK YOU VERY MUCH, GRAHAM.
Narrator: NO ONE'S LEAVING FOR
THE SUMMIT AS EARLY AS RUSSELL,
AND NO ONE IS MORE PREPARED.
THE RUMOR GOING AROUND
IS EVERYONE'S THINKING
THAT THEY'RE GOING EARLY.
BUT YOU SEE MAX IS 15,
VINCE IS 17, INDIAN -- 15.
SEVEN SUMMITS I KNOW
THAT ARE MUCH LATER
BECAUSE THEY'RE NOT READY YET
AND SO ON.
THEY'VE GOT A SHITLOAD OF GEAR
TO GET UP THE HILL.
Narrator: THE TEAM'S
SECRET SUMMIT DEPARTURE
IS RAPIDLY APPROACHING,
AND TIM MUST CONVINCE
HIS SKEPTICAL LEADER
HE'S GOT THE JUICE
BY ACCLIMATING AT NORTH COL.
SO, I'M GOING TO SPEND THE NIGHT
THERE TOMORROW.
YOU'RE OKAY WITH THAT,
RIGHT?
Russell: YEAH, ONE OF
THE SHERPAS HAS GONE UP.
I'LL MAKE SURE
YOU'RE NOT BY YOURSELF.
I DON'T CARE. I ACTUALLY
PREFER TO BE BY MYSELF.
I'M HAPPY YOU GOING UP AND DOWN
BY YOURSELF.
NORTH COL, IF YOU CAN'T
GO UP AND DOWN THERE,
THEN YOU'VE NO RIGHT
TO BE ON MY EXPEDITION.
NO. NO WORRIES.
GO TOMORROW.
I'LL FIND SOMEONE TO BE UP THERE
TOMORROW NIGHT.
ALL RIGHT, BOSS.
Russell:
TIM -- HE'S A BIG BOY.
HE SHOULD BE PLAYING RUGBY,
NOT TRYING TO CLIMB MOUNTAINS.
Tim: IT'S GONNA KILL ME.
WHAT ARE YOU GONNA DO?
IT'S MOUNT EVEREST, MAN.
GOT TO SUCK IT UP.
GOT A GUY HERE WITH NO LEGS.
WHAT AM I COMPLAINING ABOUT?
Narrator: RUSSELL
HAS TOTALLY WRITTEN TIM OFF,
JUST LIKE THE SURGEONS DID
AFTER A CYCLE CRASH
ALMOST COST HIM HIS LEG.
Tim: THE ACCIDENT --
WHEN YOU HAVE ALL THE DOCTORS
TELLING YOU,
YOU CAN'T DO THIS,
YOU CAN'T DO THAT --
THAT'S WHAT MOTIVATES ME
IF SOMEONE SAYS
YOU CAN'T DO SOMETHING.
LITTLE BEHIND THE TEAM,
SO TYPICAL TIM FASHION -- SOLO.
NOT A TEAM PLAYER.
I'M UP HERE PRETTY MUCH ALONE.
[ COUGHING ]
DEFINITELY GOT SOME CONCERNS.
I'M HAVING A HARD TIME
CATCHING MY WIND.
LIKE, NOW'S A GOOD TIME
FOR A BREAK.
Narrator:
WHILE TIM CATCHES HIS BREATH,
RUSSELL TALKS OXYGEN
DOWN AT ADVANCED BASE CAMP.
THESE ARE
VERY DANGEROUS.
THIS IS THREE-LITER.
THIS IS FOUR-LITER.
THIS IS WHAT YOU GUYS
ARE GONNA BE USING
'CAUSE IT'S MUCH HEAVIER.
THE SHERPAS HAVE BEEN USING
THESE LITTLE WIMPY ONES.
THESE ARE FILLED TO AROUND
ABOUT 500 BAR, PRESSURE,
SO EFFECTIVELY
IT'S A TIME BOMB.
IT'S TRYING TO EXPLODE.
IF YOU MIX ANY HYDROCARBON
WITH HIGH-PRESSURE OXYGEN,
IT WILL EXPLODE.
LIP SALVE, BUTTER,
CREAM ON THE TOP OF THIS THREAD
YOU'LL BLOW YOUR HEAD OFF, OKAY?
SO I SUGGEST
THAT YOU DON'T DO THAT.
Narrator: IN THE DEATH ZONE,
THE BRAIN IS STARVED FOR OXYGEN.
CLIMBERS HARDLY REMEMBER
THEIR OWN NAMES,
SO CHANGING THESE TANKS
MUST BECOME SECOND NATURE.
AH, IT'S QUITE UNCOMFORTABLE
HERE AT 21,000 FEET.
I CAN IMAGINE WHAT IT CAN BE
UP THERE
WHERE YOU CAN BARELY THINK.
Russell:
HOW DOES THAT FEEL?
DOES THAT FEEL OKAY?
NOT TOO TIGHT,
NOT TOO LOOSE.
THERE IS A FACE UNDER HERE.
HELLO.
[ MAN GROANS ]
[ LAUGHTER ]
Narrator: BUT THE O2 LESSON
IS ACADEMIC TO MOGENS.
HE'S A GENETIC FREAK --
BASICALLY BORN WITH FIVE LUNGS.
Narrator: MOGENS PLANS TO SUMMIT
WITHOUT BOTTLED OXYGEN.
LESS THAN 100 CLIMBERS
HAVE EVER ACHIEVED THIS FEAT,
AND NONE OF THEM HAD ASTHMA.
Mogens:
IF YOU HAVE 100 PEOPLE
STANDING ON THE SUMMIT
OF EVEREST,
3% MAYBE 4% ARE HAVING DONE IT
WITHOUT O's.
SO, YEAH, ITS LIKE NIGHT AND DAY
DOING IT WITH
AND WITHOUT THE MASK.
IT'S A SPECIAL CLUB.
Narrator: 1,000 FEET ABOVE,
TIM AND AN EXPEDITION SHERPA
ARE NOW HALFWAY UP TO NORTH COL.
Tim: RADIO.
GOT A CIGARETTE?
NO.
NO?
Narrator: TIM'S RéSUMé
IS A LONG LIST OF CLOSE CALLS
AND NEAR-DEATH EXPERIENCES.
ONCE, IT WAS
MOTORCYCLE CRASHES.
NOW IT'S CROSSING BOTTOMLESS
CREVASSES WITH A HACKING COUGH.
BUT FOR TIM, THAT'S WHAT
BEING ALIVE IS ABOUT.
Tim: NEVER QUITE UNDERSTOOD
THE CONCEPT
OF SAVING UP YOUR WHOLE LIFE
AND THEN SPEND IT
WHEN YOU'RE OLD.
YOUR LIFE CAN BE TAKEN FROM YOU
LIKE THAT -- BOOM.
Narrator:
TIM REACHES CAMP 1 AT NORTH COL
JUST UNDER THE QUALIFYING TIME
OF FIVE HOURS.
Tim:
WHOO. I COULD EAT A BEAR.
Narrator:
RUSSELL IS RELIEVED TO SEE HIM
BUT STILL CONVINCED THE 6'5"
DAREDEVIL WILL BE A LIABILITY
ON THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT
JUST THREE DAYS AWAY.
I GOT A LITTLE BIT OF STEAM
LEFT IN ME, NOT MUCH, THOUGH.
Narrator: RUSSELL IS CERTAIN
TIM WILL HIT THE WALL
AND DROP OUT OF THE EXPEDITION.
Russell: I'D HOPE THAT WE CAN
GET HIM TO CAMP 2, AS WELL,
AND THEN HE DROPS OUT.
AND I REALLY WOULD WANT HIM
TO STRUGGLE
AND PUSH HARD TO HIS LIMIT.
IT'S BETTER FOR HIM
TO MAKE THE DECISION
AND FAIL ON HIS OWN.
LET HIM BUILD IT UP
AND MAKE HIS OWN CHOICE.
AND HE KNOWS.
I MEAN, IF IT TAKES HIM 8
OR 10 HOURS TO GET TO CAMP 2,
HE'S GONNA KNOW
IT'S DONE.
THE ONLY PROBLEM I GOT RIGHT NOW
IS AN EMPTY STOMACH.
DINNER.
Narrator: BUT HIGH UP
AT CAMP 1 ON NORTH COL,
TIM IS HIS OLD SELF AGAIN.
WE'RE UP ON THE NORTH COL
ON MOUNT EVEREST.
WE'RE GONNA COOK SOME SOUP
TODAY.
FIRST, START OFF
WITH A LITTLE WATER.
THEN WE PUT A LITTLE NOODLE
IN THERE,
LITTLE CHILLI,
LITTLE CHEESE.
I LIKE TO CALL THIS
MY NEW ORLEANS SHERPA SOUP.
OH, YEAH.
YEAH, VERY GOOD,
VERY GOOD.
RAM ROLL.
RAM ROLL.
STIR IT UP THERE.
GIVE IT A LITTLE BIT MORE BAM!
NOW WE'RE GONNA TAKE
A COMMERCIAL BREAK,
AND WE'LL DIVVY IT UP HERE.
BAM!
Narrator:
TIM LEAVES EVEREST'S NORTH COL
CONVINCED HE WILL QUALIFY
FOR THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT
THREE DAYS AWAY.
SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE,
SO HOPEFULLY THAT'LL BE
THE OUTCOME OF THIS ONE.
Narrator:
BUT DOWN AT ADVANCED BASE CAMP,
THE WEATHER THROWS RUSSELL
A CURVE.
A STORM HAS COME OUT OF NOWHERE
AND SLAMS SHUT THE GATE.
THE ONLY THING THAT CAN PUSH ME
AROUND IS THE WEATHER,
AND THAT'S WHAT IT'S DOING.
Narrator: RUSSELL HAS DECIDED
TO SEND TWO TEAMS TO THE SUMMIT
ON SUCCESSIVE DATES,
BUT NOW THE CLIMBS
ARE BOTH DELAYED BY A DAY.
WE'RE GOING TO THE SUMMIT
THE 13th, 14th NOW.
14th THE WIND IS HERE,
BUT THEN 15, 16, 17
THE WIND PICKS UP AGAIN
AND GOES THROUGH A LEVEL
THAT I'M NOT HAPPY WITH,
WE'RE TALKING ABOUT A WEEK
IN ADVANCE OF WHAT'S HAPPENING.
YOU'RE NOT TALKING ABOUT
SITTING DOWN HERE
IN THE NICE, COMFORTABLE ABC
IN THE SUN.
WE'RE TALKING ABOUT
WHAT'S HAPPENING
IN FIVE, SIX DAYS' TIME
UP ON THE MOUNTAIN.
WHO WANTS THE GOOD NEWS
AND THE BAD NEWS?
BAD NEWS FIRST.
BAD NEWS FIRST?
IT'S GOING TO BE WINDY.
BUT I NEED TO GET
A BETTER FORECAST TODAY,
SO WE'RE STILL BALANCING.
SO HANG FIRE
ONE MORE DAY, GUYS.
Narrator:
WHEN TIM LUMBERS INTO CAMP,
THE ONE-DAY DELAY
GIVES HIM 24 HOURS MORE TO REST.
Man:
HOW YOU DOING, BIG MAN?
HEY, HEY, HEY.
FEELING GOOD.
HUNGRY AS USUAL.
[ LAUGHS ]
[ INDISTINCT TALKING ]
Narrator: TIM'S HUMOR AND GUTS
HAVE WON OVER THE SHERPAS,
HIS FELLOW CLIMBERS, AND
RUSSELL, IN SPITE OF HIMSELF.
Russell: I LOVE HIM.
I THINK HE'S A GREAT CHARACTER.
IT'S NICE TO HAVE HIM HERE.
Terry: AND HE RESPECTS
YOUR STAFF, TOO.
HE LOVES THEM, AND HE SPEAKS
NEPALESE WITH THEM,
AND THEY LOVE HIM
BECAUSE OF THAT.
'CAUSE HE'S TOOLO.
HE'S TOOLO YETI.
[ LAUGHTER ]
HE'S TOOLO YETI.
TOOLO YETI.
Bill: YEAH, KICKING HIM OUT
OF THE KITCHEN.
"OUT OF MY KITCHEN!"
Woman:
HE'S A HUNGRY BOY.
Man:
HE'S ALWAYS HUNGRY.
MMM.
OH, MAN.
THIS IS THE BEST EGGS
AND POTATOES
I'VE EVER HAD IN MY LIFE.
GOOD TO BE BACK.
Narrator:
WHILE TIM FILLS HIS STOMACH,
RUSSELL STUDIES
THE LATEST FORECASTS.
Russell: 19 DIFFERENT PICTURES
AND MAPS AND CHARTS AND THINGS.
NEED TO LOOK TO THAT TO CONFIRM,
LET'S KEEP GOING.
Narrator:
TO MEET RUSSELL'S DEADLINE,
THE SHERPAS RACE
TO DELIVER SUPPLIES TO CAMP 4.
THE SPOT'S SO STEEP,
THEY HAVE TO CUT TRENCHES
TO KEEP OXYGEN BOTTLES
FROM SLIDING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
RUSSELL CAN ONLY HOPE
THE SHERPAS WILL RETURN SAFELY
IN TIME FOR THE NEW SUMMIT DAYS.
[ CHEERS AND APPLAUSE ]
ALL THESE BRIGHT LIGHTS.
THE SHERPAS RETURN TO ABC
AND CONFIRM
THAT ALL HIGH CAMPS ARE READY.
THE GATEWAY TO THE SUMMIT
HAS BEEN PRIED BACK OPEN.
Man:
PHURBA, WHERE DID YOU GO?
8-3.
IS THAT CAMP 4?
CAMP 4. YEAH.
Russell: THE WEATHER WAS GOOD,
AND THE BOYS WERE GREAT,
SO THESE BOYS CAN HAVE
A BIT OF A REST TOMORROW.
I'M THEIR BIGGEST FAN.
IT'S OUT OF THIS WORLD.
JUST BLOWS ME AWAY.
I CAME OUT TO THANK THEM.
THANK YOU.
Narrator: ALL THE PIECES
HAVE FALLEN TOGETHER.
THE TEAM HAS ACCLIMATED
IN HALF THE NORMAL TIME.
AND THE SHERPAS
HAVE PULLED OFF A NEAR MIRACLE.
THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT IS NOW A GO
IN JUST 12 HOURS.
BUT ON EVEREST,
12 HOURS IS AN ETERNITY.
NEXT TIME ON "EVEREST" --
RUSSELL'S DEMONS RETURN
TO HAUNT HIM.
IT'S DANGEROUS.
IF IT GOES WRONG,
IT GOES REALLY, REALLY WRONG.
YOU CAN DIE.
TO KEEP HIS AMBITIONS ALIVE,
THE KING OF THE MOUNTAIN
LAYS DOWN THE LAW.
Russell: BUT, REMEMBER, ALSO,
THEY ARE MERE MORTALS.
IT'S NOT THEIR JOB
TO DIE ALONGSIDE YOU
BECAUSE OF YOUR AMBITIONS.
Narrator:
EACH STEP IS AN ETERNITY,
EACH BREATH A BATTLE,
AS EIGHT MEN PUSH THE LIMIT
ON EVEREST.
CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY
DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS
LAST TIME ON "EVEREST" --
DEATH ON THE MOUNTAIN.
ONE OF OUR SHERPAS DIED.
[ Voice breaking ] ANYWAYS,
LET'S GET ON --
GET ON WITH THE JOB
OF GETTING UP THE MOUNTAIN.
Narrator:
NOW L.A. FIREMAN BRETT MERRELL
STRUGGLES FOR BREATH
AND FIGHTS FOR HIS DREAM.
THIS IS BRUTAL.
Narrator:
ASTHMATIC CLIMBER MOGENS JENSEN
PROVES HE'S THE STRONGEST
AND FASTEST.
HEY, BOYS.
DOUBLE AMPUTEE MARK INGLIS
HAS A MECHANICAL BREAKDOWN.
BLOODY CLIENT'S
BROKEN HIS LEG.
OH, BUGGER,
WHAT DID WE DO WRONG?
WHAT AM I GONNA DO?
Narrator: AND TIM MEDVETZ,
THE BIKER FROM L.A.,
FALLS BEHIND THE SUMMIT TEAM
AND RUSSELL'S PATIENCE.
HE'S A LOSS TO YOU GUYS,
NOT TO ME.
BAM!
HE'S NOT IN THE TEAM.
Terry: OPEN YOUR MOUTH,
OPEN YOUR MOUTH.
Man: BREATHE, BREATHE.
BREATHE.
SPIT IT OUT. GOOD.
SPIT IT OUT. SPIT.
Narrator: EVEREST EXPEDITION
DOCTOR TERRY O'CONNOR
TRIES TO SAVE AN UNKNOWN CLIMBER
FROM DYING OF CEREBRAL EDEMA.
WHEN I FIRST SAW HIM
AND DID MY INITIAL ASSESSMENT,
I THOUGHT HE WASN'T
GONNA MAKE IT.
THE FIRST THING IN YOUR MIND IS,
"THIS IS A DEAD MAN."
Bill: HE WENT FROM BASICALLY
STANDING TO FULLY CRUMPED OVER
TO UNCONSCIOUS
IN ABOUT 15 MINUTES.
SPIT!
SPIT!
HE DIDN'T EVEN GROAN,
DIDN'T EVEN RESPOND.
I MEAN, HE WAS THAT FAR GONE.
WE'RE BUILDING A STRETCHER,
AND WE'RE GONNA
GET HIM DOWN THE HILL A.S.A.P.
GUYS, GO AHEAD
AND GET YOURSELF SET UP.
LET'S GET GOING.
Russell: IF YOU'RE COMING
TO CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST,
YOU SHOULD MAKE A VERY FIRM
DECISION IN YOUR MIND
THAT THERE IS A CHANCE TO DIE.
EVERYONE THAT'S HERE --
FILM CREW, SHERPAS,
GUIDES, CLIENTS --
THEY ALL HAVE A RISK FACTOR
THAT SOMETHING COULD GO WRONG.
[ MONITOR BEEPING ]
Narrator: THE NEXT MORNING, THE
CLIMBERS GET TERRY'S PROGNOSIS.
THAT WAS KIND OF
AN INTERESTING DAY.
HAD AN INDIAN THAT WAS SUFFERING
FROM CEREBRAL EDEMA.
SPENT THE NIGHT, WOKE UP IN
THE MORNING, WENT INTO A COMA.
DEFINITELY HAVE OUR CONCERN --
HAVE MY CONCERNS.
YOU COME UP HERE
AND SPEND THE NIGHT.
YOU KNOW, WHAT HAPPENS
WHEN YOU WAKE UP?
ANYWAY, IT'S ALL PART
OF CLIMBING EVEREST.
Narrator:
ADVANCED BASE CAMP --
NEARLY FOUR PAINFUL MILES
ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
FOR MORE THAN A MONTH,
THIS IS HOME SWEET HOME.
THIS SEASON THERE ARE MORE THAN
600 CLIMBERS, THE MOST EVER.
EACH WAITS FOR
THE TWO-WEEK WEATHER WINDOW
TO OPEN THE WAY TO THE SUMMIT.
MMM.
OKAY.
THANK YOU.
GOOD MORNING.
GOOD MORNING.
HERE'S COFFEE.
OH, THANK YOU.
Man:
NICE START TO THE DAY.
Man: MORNING, MAX.
MORNING.
ABC, 21,000 FEET --
MY HOME AWAY FROM HOME.
ALMOST THERE, MA.
TAKE A LOOK.
UP THERE, THERE'S THE SUMMIT.
IT'S A LITTLE CLOUDY, BUT YOU
CAN KIND OF SEE IT A LITTLE BIT.
Narrator:
TIM AND BRETT HAVE CARVED
A PIECE OF PRIME REAL ESTATE
FOR THE CALIFORNIA CONTINGENT.
I'M IN THE AMERICAN GHETTO
RIGHT NOW.
WE GOT TWO TENTS,
TWO AMERICANS SIDE BY SIDE,
AND WE'RE
NEXT TO THE FREEWAY HERE.
IT'S THE SHERPA TRAIL ON THEIR
WAY UP AND DOWN THE MOUNTAIN
AT 2:00 IN THE MORNING.
Tim: USA, BABY!
THAT'S MY NOISY NEIGHBOR TIM.
I GOT NEIGHBORS, RIGHT?
Narrator:
EX-HELLS ANGEL TIM MEDVETZ
CUSTOMIZES HOGS
FOR THE HOLLYWOOD A-LIST.
ALMOST KILLED BY A CYCLE CRASH,
HIS BROKEN BONES
HAVE BARELY MENDED
WHEN HE JOINS THE TEAM
AT KATHMANDU.
I'VE HAD TO CALL THE COPS ON HIM
A COUPLE TIMES ALREADY.
THAT'S BRETT OVER THERE.
HE'S MY NEIGHBOR.
HE'S BUILDING THIS OUTLANDISH
CONDO OVER THERE.
Tim: THERE'S MY MATTRESS,
MY VITAMINS.
THAT'S MY LITTLE KITCHEN AREA
AND MY KNIFE HANGING
ON THE CEILING.
YOU GOT TO HAVE A KNIFE.
THE PLACE IS JUST A CESSPOOL.
IT'S A MESS.
MMM, BACON SANDWICH,
A LITTLE SALAMI, AND CANDY BARS.
SPEAKING OF CESSPOOL,
THE URINAL'S LIKE 5 FEET
ON THE OTHER SIDE OF HIM.
I'M THINKING ABOUT PUTTING
THE PLACE UP FOR SALE.
YOU GOT TO CUT YOUR LOSES
AND GET THE HELL OUT OF HERE
WHILE YOU CAN.
Narrator:
THE FIVE-DAY CLIMB TO THE SUMMIT
LEADS FROM
THEIR CURRENT POSITION AT ABC
VIA OVERNIGHT STOPS
AT CAMPS 1 TO 4.
BUT NO ONE'S GOING ANYWHERE
UNTIL SHERPAS RIG OVER
THREE MILES OF SAFETY ROPES
TO THE SUMMIT.
6 BOYS, 1,200 METERS OF ROPE.
THERE'S 200 METERS APIECE,
SO THEY HAVE 2 COILS EACH.
IT'S AMAZING, HUH?
Narrator: RUSSELL'S OLD FRIEND
AND HEAD SHERPA IS PHURBA.
HE ACTUALLY MAKES MORE DECISIONS
THAN I DO.
PHURBA AND I FIRST WERE FIXING
ROPES TOGETHER IN THE OLD DAYS.
YOU ALWAYS USED TO LEAVE
THE ROPE WITH ME LAST, BAD BOY.
PHURBA AND THE CREW CARRY
ALMOST HALF THEIR BODY WEIGHT
WORTH OF ROPES AND GEAR
TO THE SUMMIT.
OH, THAT'S HEAVY.
THESE ARE NOT BOYS.
THESE ARE SUPERMEN.
Russell: HOW'D YOU LIKE TO GO
TO THE SUMMIT WITH THAT?
NO, THANK YOU.
THAT'S HEAVY.
I'M GONNA TURN THE OXYGEN ON
BEFORE I COLLAPSE.
Narrator:
IT'S NOT UNUSUAL FOR ONE SHERPA
TO LOAD A HALF-DOZEN
OXYGEN BOTTLES IN HIS BACKPACK,
WHILE OTHERS HOIST COILS
OF SAFETY ROPE.
Mogens: THESE ARE THE REAL
HEROES OF THE MOUNTAIN,
THE SPINE
OF EVERY EXPEDITION.
Russell:
I'M CONCERNED ABOUT EVERYONE
BECAUSE THEY'RE LIKE MY FAMILY,
YOU KNOW.
IT'S LIKE HAVING SIX SONS
GOING TO THE SUMMIT TODAY.
SO I'M INCREDIBLY WORRIED
ABOUT THESE PEOPLE.
Narrator: WHERE THEY'RE GOING,
NO ONE CAN COME TO THE RESCUE.
AFTER ONE SHERPA DEATH
THIS SEASON,
RUSSELL CAN'T STOP WORRYING.
Russell: BE SAFE.
Narrator: THE INDIAN CLIMBER
HAS REGAINED CONSCIOUSNESS.
BUT HIS NEAR DEATH SHOWS
EVERYONE HOW EVEREST CAN KILL.
HE SUFFERS THE EFFECTS
OF HIGH-ALTITUDE CEREBRAL EDEMA.
HIS BRAIN HAS SWOLLEN SO MUCH,
HIS EYES BULGE,
AND HE'S ON THE VERGE
OF MULTIPLE ORGAN FAILURE.
I'M JUST GLAD HE LOOKS MUCH,
MUCH BETTER THAN YESTERDAY.
Brett: TO SEE A BIG EXPEDITION
COME UP HERE LIKE THAT
AND BE SO TOTALLY UNPREPARED
TO DO RESCUE
ON ONE OF THEIR OWN MEMBERS --
THEY DIDN'T HAVE ANY OXYGEN.
THEY DIDN'T HAVE ANY MEDS.
I MEAN, IF IT WASN'T FOR
RUSSELL, THAT GUY WOULD BE DEAD.
FOLLOW FINGER DOWN.
Terry: THANKFULLY
WE HAD THE RIGHT RESOURCES.
CERTAINLY IF HE HAD
STAYED UP THERE MUCH LONGER,
HE WOULD HAVE DIED.
YEAH, THERE'S NO DOUBT
IN MY MIND.
LOOK UP.
HE'S STABLE HERE, BUT ALWAYS
GET BETTER IF YOU GO DOWN.
WELL, THERE ARE
THREE REMEDIES --
DESCENT, DESCENT, AND DESCENT.
Narrator:
THE CLIMB DOWN FROM ABC
STARTS NEARLY FOUR MILES
ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
THE ATMOSPHERE HERE
IS TOO THIN FOR HELICOPTERS.
SO IT'S UP TO SHERPAS TO MEDEVAC
THE VICTIM FOOT BY FOOT
DOWN 14 MILES OF ROCKY TRAILS.
Bill:
I DON'T THINK THERE'S ANYBODY
THAT HAS THE INFRASTRUCTURE,
THE COMMUNICATIONS
THAT WE HAVE --
AND THEN,
IF SOMETHING DOES GO WRONG,
THE INFRASTRUCTURE IN PLACE
TO ACTUALLY EVACUATE SOMEBODY
TO KATHMANDU IN ABOUT 18 HOURS,
WHICH IS PRETTY MUCH UNHEARD OF.
Narrator: AS THE MAN DISAPPEARS
DOWN THE MOUNTAIN,
TIM WONDERS IF HIS DAYS
AT ABC ARE NUMBERED.
Tim: ANOTHER BAD NIGHT.
IT'S PROBABLY THE WORST I'VE HAD
LAST NIGHT -- BRUTAL.
I THOUGHT I WAS GONNA JUST
COUGH UP MY WHOLE FRICKIN' --
ALL MY ORGANS INSIDE.
[ COUGHING ]
Narrator:
HIS COUGH IS SO VIOLENT,
HE COULD CRACK HIS RIBS.
WHILE TIM BATTLES BRONCHITIS,
THE SHERPAS
CONTINUE THEIR STRUGGLE
TO FIX SAFETY LINES
TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD.
TO GET THERE, PHURBA AND THE MEN
MUST PENETRATE THE DEATH ZONE,
A HIGH-ALTITUDE KILLING GROUND
AT 26,000 FEET.
Terry:
WHAT DOES THE DEATH ZONE MEAN?
I THINK, GENERALLY SPEAKING,
IT'S A PLACE THAT THE HUMAN BODY
COULD NOT SURVIVE FOR VERY LONG.
YOU DO NOTHING
BUT BREAK DOWN OUR OWN TISSUE.
WE'RE DOING NOTHING
BUT STARVING,
AND THERE'S ONLY SO LONG
THAT WE CAN DO THAT.
DO I THINK STAYING UP
IN THE DEATH ZONE
FOR MORE THAN A COUPLE DAYS
IS A GOOD IDEA?
NO, PROBABLY NOT.
Narrator: SHORT AND WIRY,
SHERPAS ARE EVOLVED
TO LIVE AT HIGH ALTITUDE.
THEIR HEARTS ARE MORE EFFICIENT
THAN WESTERNERS',
AND THEIR BLOOD
ABSORBS MORE OXYGEN.
BUT EVEN THEY CAN EASILY PERISH
IN THE DEATH ZONE,
WHERE TEMPERATURES DROP
TO 40 DEGREES BELOW ZERO.
IF THE MOUNTAIN
TURNS ON THEM HERE,
ALL RUSSELL CAN DO
IS WATCH THEM DIE.
Russell: I'M VERY, VERY ANXIOUS
FOR THESE BOYS.
THEY'RE DOING A HARD,
DANGEROUS JOB,
AND THINGS CAN GO WRONG EASILY.
Narrator: EXPEDITION SHERPAS
ATTEMPT SOMETHING
NEVER DONE SO EARLY
IN THE EVEREST SEASON --
LAYING A SAFETY LINE TO THE
SUMMIT ON THE LAST DAY OF APRIL.
SO, THEY'RE PRETTY MUCH ON TIME
TO BE ON THE SUMMIT
PROBABLY ABOUT 1:00 TODAY.
Narrator: THE SHERPAS WILL FIX
OVER 17,000 FEET OF LINE
TO THE MOUNTAIN.
IT'S A LONG WAY FOR THEM TO COME
DOWN, SO STILL WORRY A LOT NOW.
[ MAN LAUGHS ]
YEAH, HI, PHURBA.
PRETTY EMOTIONAL TIME FOR THEM.
I'M PRETTY PROUD OF THEM.
I'M SURE THEY'RE PROUD.
YOU WANT US TO SEND SOME TEA UP
FOR YOU GUYS?
[ LAUGHTER ]
Narrator:
A FEW HOURS LATER,
PHURBA REPORTS HIS TEAM
HAS PASSED SAFELY
DOWN THE DEATH ZONE
AND ARE ON THEIR WAY
BACK TO ABC.
DO YOU KNOW WHAT'LL HAPPEN WHEN
YOU ASK THEM SOMETHING ABOUT IT?
THEY'LL SMILE AT YOU
AND NOD.
Mogens: YOU HAVE TO GO BACK
AND LOOK AT THE OLD R.E.M. SONG
WHERE THEY TALK ABOUT STANDING
AT THE SHOULDERS OF GIANTS.
THE GIANTS
ARE UP NEAR THE SUMMIT NOW.
WE'RE JUST DWARFS.
THAT'S THE WAY IT IS.
HOW COME YOU ALWAYS
EXPRESS YOURSELF SO WELL?
DON'T KNOW.
I'M A ROMANTIC GUY.
YOU'RE A ROMANTIC GUY,
ARE YOU?
[ COUGHING ]
Narrator: BUT TIM'S
IN TOO MUCH PAIN TO CELEBRATE.
TO HEAL HIS BRONCHITIS,
THE MOTORCYCLE DESIGNER DESCENDS
14 MILES LOWER TO BASE CAMP,
WHERE THE AIR IS THICKER.
IT'S PRETTY WARM DOWN THERE,
FROM WHAT I HEAR.
SO I'VE GOT MY BATHING SUIT
AND MY SUNTAN LOTION IN HERE.
I'M SORRY THAT IT'S COME
TO THIS.
BUT, I MEAN, HE'S BEEN SUFFERING
FOR THE LAST TWO OR THREE DAYS.
Narrator: TIM'S FALLEN BEHIND
THE TEAM, AND AS THE GATEKEEPER,
RUSSELL DOUBTS HE'LL MAKE
THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT.
Russell: BUT THEN AGAIN,
TIM'S ALL OUT OF SEQUENCE,
SO HE'S NOT PLAYING VERY HARD
TO TRY AND GET INTO SEQUENCE.
HE'S ALWAYS, EVERY SINGLE DAY,
NOT GONE ON THE DAY
THAT OTHER PEOPLE WENT.
I DON'T KNOW WHAT HIS GAME IS.
HOW ARE YOU DOING?
[ COUGHING ]
BETTER THAN YOU.
HE'S A LOSS TO YOU GUYS,
NOT TO ME.
SEE YOU FOR THE SUMMIT PUSH,
BROTHER.
HAVE A GOOD WALK DOWN.
I'LL TALK TO YOU LATER.
AS FAR AS I'M CONCERNED,
HE'S A LOT OF HARD WORK
FOR ME TO GET HIM TO THE SUMMIT
AND BACK DOWN.
TERRY,
THANKS FOR EVERYTHING.
Terry: TAKE CARE OF YOURSELF
ON THE WAY DOWN.
BE SAFE.
BE SAFE UP THERE.
MAX, LATER.
Narrator: THIS SEASON,
THE WEATHER ON EVEREST
IS THE BEST IN LIVING MEMORY,
AND RUSSELL IS TEMPTED TO START
THE SUMMIT PUSH TWO WEEKS EARLY.
THEY PUT IT ALL INTO A COMPUTER
MODEL AND PUMP IT ALL OUT
AND GIVE IT TO ME
IN A LITTLE, SIMPLE GRAPH.
YOU GOT TO READ THAT AND ALSO
WHAT'S HAPPENING OUTSIDE.
Narrator: RUSSELL IS
A WEATHER JUNKIE.
HE CHECKS THE FORECAST EVERY
SIX HOURS, BUT NOT FOR KICKS.
AN UNEXPECTED WIND OR DROP IN
TEMPERATURE COULD KILL HIS TEAM
IF THEY'RE CAUGHT IN THE OPEN.
WE'RE PUTTING A LOT OF FAITH
IN THIS TECHNOLOGY.
Narrator: SO RUSSELL GETS THE
BEST HIGH-TECH WEATHER REPORTS
MONEY CAN BUY,
AND WHAT THEY'RE TELLING HIM NOW
IS PRICELESS.
SO, THIS LINE HERE
IS THE SUMMIT,
AND WE'RE LOOKING AT SUMMIT DAY
ON THE 12th AND 13th.
THAT GIVES LESS US WIND,
AND THEN AS WE GET BACK DOWN
OFF THE MOUNTAIN,
IT GOES UP AGAIN
DURING THE NIGHT,
AND THEN THE NEXT DAY,
IT DROPS DOWN AGAIN
AS WE GO TO THE SUMMIT.
Bill:
SO, THEY'RE ALL SINGLE DIGITS,
DOUBLE DIGITS A LITTLE BIT.
Shaun: THAT'S PERFECT.
Narrator: THE REPORT
PREDICTS FIVE CLEAR DAYS
FOR THE SUMMIT PUSH
IN TWO WEEKS' TIME.
RUSSELL'S ORIGINAL PLAN
WAS TO SUMMIT IN A MONTH,
BUT HE'S CONVINCED HIS TEAM CAN
BE READY FOR AN EARLY WINDOW.
Russell:
WELL, IT'S ALWAYS A GAMBLE,
BECAUSE WE'RE LOOKING
AT THE WEATHER FORECAST
FOUR OR FIVE DAYS AWAY.
OF COURSE IT'S A GAMBLE.
Narrator:
THE STAKES ARE HIGH.
THE CLIMBERS MUST PUSH
THEIR BODIES HARDER
TO ACCLIMATE IN TWO WEEKS
INSTEAD OF FOUR.
12 EXPEDITION SHERPAS MUST
DELIVER TWO TONS' WORTH OF GEAR
TO THE FOUR HIGHER CAMPS
ON THE WAY TO THE SUMMIT,
ALL IN TWO SHORT WEEKS.
SO WILL YOU GET OXYGEN LOADS
FOR TOMORROW?
Russell: NOW WE'VE GOT
130-SOMETHING BOTTLES OF OXYGEN
TO SHIFT, AND 90 TENTS.
THE FASTER WE CAN GET THAT UP,
THE FASTER WE CAN GET UP
ON THE MOUNTAIN.
Narrator:
NO OTHER EXPEDITION LEADER
CAN MATCH RUSSELL'S EXPERIENCE
AND WEATHER SAVVY.
SO THE SECOND RUSSELL'S TEAM
DEPARTS ABC FOR THE SUMMIT,
LESS-EXPERIENCED GROUPS
WILL FOLLOW.
IF THE COMPETING EXPEDITIONS
JUMP AHEAD OF RUSSELL'S,
HIS CLIMBERS COULD BE CAUGHT
IN A DEATH ZONE TRAFFIC JAM.
THIS IS PART OF THE LOGISTICS
ON THE MOUNTAIN.
YOU LOOK AROUND THIS CAMP,
THERE'S 600-SOMETHING PEOPLE
ALL WANTING TO GO
TO THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT EVEREST.
Narrator:
RUSSELL'S CLIENTS MUST PROVE
THEY'RE TECHNICALLY COMPETENT
AND HAVE CLIMBED
AT LEAST 24,000 FEET.
BUT STANDARDS ARE NOT AS HIGH
ON OTHER EXPEDITIONS,
AND RUSSELL'S
NOT THE ONLY LEADER
WORRIED ABOUT THE CLIMB AHEAD.
I DON'T WANT TO PUT, LIKE,
A BAD FEELING OVER THE CAMP,
BUT I GOT A FEELING
THAT THERE'S GONNA BE
SOME BAD THINGS HAPPEN
THIS YEAR
'CAUSE THERE'S JUST
TOO MANY PEOPLE ON THE MOUNTAIN.
Narrator:
IT TAKES 10 LONG HOURS
FOR TIM TO GO 14 MILES
DOWN TO LOWER BASE CAMP,
WHERE THE AIR
CONTAINS 30% MORE OXYGEN.
OH, MAN,
YOU GUYS ARE BRUTAL.
YOU GUYS
ARE LIKE THE PAPARAZZI.
Tim: I GOT BACK AROUND 8:00
AT NIGHT AND COUGHING, HACKING.
SHE'S THROWING EVERYTHING AT ME,
EVERYTHING.
THAT'S WHY I'M HERE, RIGHT?
Narrator: BUT UNLESS TIM
CAN HEAL HIMSELF SOON,
HIS SUMMIT DREAM WILL END
ON THE BUS BACK TO KATHMANDU.
MOUNT EVEREST
IS 5 1/2 MILES HIGH,
THE CRUISING ALTITUDE
OF JUMBO JETS.
BUT FOR ALL ITS SIZE,
THE FINAL TRAIL TO THE TOP
IS BARELY WIDE ENOUGH
FOR ONE MAN TO PASS AT A TIME.
I RECKON YOU CAN PROBABLY
PUT ABOUT 60 PEOPLE A DAY
UP ON THE SIDE.
IF YOU'VE GOT LOTS
AND LOTS OF PEOPLE
HOGGING THE ROPES
AND GOING SLOWLY,
THEN THAT'S A BIG PROBLEM.
Narrator: NOT LONG AGO,
RUSSELL WOULD KNOW EVERY GUIDE
AND LEADER HERE BY NAME.
BUT THOSE DAYS ARE GONE.
THERE'S SO MANY TEAMS HERE,
THEY'VE ALL BLENDED
INTO EACH OTHER.
AND I REALLY, REALLY
DON'T EVEN KNOW WHO'S WHO.
Narrator: IT'S CRUCIAL
THE PLAN TO SUMMIT EARLY
IS KEPT SECRET
FROM THE OTHER EXPEDITIONS.
Russell:
I'M NERVOUS, VERY NERVOUS,
BECAUSE TELL OTHER PEOPLE,
THEN EVERYONE COMING WITH US,
TELL NOBODY, THEN WE HAVE
THE MOUNTAIN TO OURSELF.
JUST JUGGLING AROUND
A LITTLE BIT
AND UTILIZING THE WEATHER
AND THE TIMING OF USING
THE SHERPAS AND THINGS LIKE THAT
TO MAKE IT LOOK AS THOUGH
WE'RE A LITTLE BIT CALM HERE
AND MAYBE A LITTLE BIT LAZY.
Narrator:
RUSSELL ACTS LIKE A LAID-BACK
LEADER TO FOOL THE COMPETITION.
YEAH, BILL?
MEANWHILE HE'S RUSHING
SHERPA TEAMS UP THE MOUNTAIN
WITH SUPPLIES.
SO, WE MUST GET CAMP 2
AND CAMP 3
AND AS MUCH OXYGEN,
EVERYTHING UP.
ONE FIRST AID KIT
AND ONE SPARE MASK AND REGULATOR
AND SPARE OXYGEN
AT EACH CAMP
SO IF SOMETHING GOES WRONG,
YOU CAN GET FROM EACH CAMP DOWN.
BUT LET'S GET THAT CAMP
BEFORE OTHER PEOPLE DO.
THE CLIMBERS WILL START THEIR
SUMMIT ATTEMPT IN FOUR DAYS
AND MUST PREPARE THEIR BODIES.
THEY CLIMB UP FROM ABC
TO ACCLIMATE OVERNIGHT
AT CAMP 1, NORTH COL.
IT'S A BACKBREAKING
2,000-FOOT VERTICAL TREK.
RUSSELL WILL WATCH EACH MAN
LIKE A HAWK
TO DECIDE
WHO WILL BE ALLOWED TO SUMMIT.
SO, THERE ARE CUTOFF TIMES
THAT WE START LOOKING AT TODAY,
AND PEOPLE NEED TO BE PERFORMING
A BIT BETTER THAN THEY HAVE
ON MAYBE SOME
OF THE OTHER TRIPS.
IF YOU'RE NOT AT NORTH COL
BY 2:00 -- THAT'S FIVE HOURS.
IF YOU'RE NOT UP THERE
IN FIVE HOURS,
YOU'RE NOT DOING TOO WELL.
Woman:
WHAT HAPPENED LAST TIME?
Narrator:
ACCLIMATION HAS NOW RAISED
EACH MAN'S RED BLOOD CELL COUNT
BY 50%
TO MAXIMIZE THEIR OXYGEN INTAKE.
BUT THEY STILL FEEL SICK
MOST OF THE TIME.
Terry: IT'S PRETTY AMAZING
WHAT THE BODY CAN DO
TO ADJUST FOR OUR SILLY BEHAVIOR
OF DECIDING TO COME UP HERE
AND LIVE WHERE THERE'S 50%
OF THE OXYGEN THAT WE HAVE
AT SEA LEVEL.
TA-DA!
FOR MY NEXT TRICK,
I WILL VOMIT INTO THE SNOW.
CARRYING A BIG LOAD TODAY.
HOPEFULLY THAT DOESN'T
KICK MY BUTT TOO BAD.
IT'S PROBABLY 35 POUNDS.
Narrator: AT 9:00 A.M., RUSSELL
AND BILL, HIS HEAD GUIDE,
SCORE THE CLIMBERS
AS THEY STRUGGLE UP.
THIS IS BRUTAL.
YOU KNOW, YOU JUST CAN'T
CATCH YOUR BREATH.
IT'S KICKING MY BUTT
MORE THAN I THOUGHT IT WOULD.
Narrator:
BRETT CAN ALMOST FEEL RUSSELL'S
EYES GLUED TO HIS BACK.
THIS IS HIS SECOND ATTEMPT
AT EVEREST.
IF HE FAILS TO REACH NORTH COL
IN TIME,
BRETT COULD BE DROPPED
FROM THE TEAM.
I THOUGHT
I WAS GONNA JUST BREEZE UP.
WELL, I TAKE THAT BACK.
Russell: IT'S MORE ABOUT THE
MIND THAN IT IS ABOUT PHYSIQUE.
MAYBE THAT'S PART OF THE THING
WITH BRETT
IS AT HOME HE'S ONE
OF THE REAL TOUGH FIREMEN,
BUT HERE
HE'S JUST A MERE MORTAL.
Narrator: TWO HOURS INTO
BRETT'S CLIMB, MOGENS SETS OFF.
BUT HE SOON PASSES THE FIREMAN
FROM L.A.
AND IS CATCHING UP
WITH THE REST OF THE TEAM,
INCLUDING CAMERAMAN MARK WHETU.
Mark: CAN YOU TELL ME
HOW FAST YOU'RE GOING?
ABOUT 2 1/4 HOURS FROM ABC.
SO, YOU DECIDED
TO TAKE YOUR TIME TODAY.
AH, IT HAPPENS.
[ LAUGHS ]
Russell: I THINK
IT'S GREAT FOR MOGENS.
HE'S READY TO ROLL.
I THINK GET UP THERE
AND BACK DOWN QUICK.
YEAH.
I FEEL CONFIDENT.
Narrator: MOGENS IS
A 30-YEAR-OLD SCHOOLTEACHER
AND DENMARK'S
ONLY PROFESSIONAL MOUNTAINEER
IN A COUNTRY WITH NO MOUNTAINS.
HIS EVEREST TRAINING INCLUDED
TREKKING 10 MILES A DAY
WITH 150 POUNDS OF WATER
IN HIS PACK.
MOGENS HAS CHRONIC ASTHMA
BUT IS DETERMINED
TO TEST HIMSELF AGAINST EVEREST
WITHOUT BOTTLED OXYGEN.
Mogens: I WOULD LIKE TO SEND OUT
THE MESSAGE TO OTHER ASTHMATICS
THAT EVEN THE SUMMIT
OF MOUNT EVEREST IS WITHIN REACH
AND POSSIBLE FOR AN ASTHMATIC --
WITHOUT OXYGEN, EVEN.
Narrator: AS MOGENS AND
THE OTHERS PUSH ON TO NORTH COL,
TIM TRIES TO HEAL HIS LUNGS
AT BASE CAMP 6,000 FEET BELOW.
Tim: OH, NOW.
LITTLE SLIGHT CASE
OF BRONCHITIS.
I'VE STARTED SOME ANTIBIOTICS.
THAT'S ABOUT IT, THOUGH.
KEEP A LOT OF FLUIDS IN YOU
AND GRIN AND BEAR IT.
Narrator:
TIM MUST BEAT HIS BRONCHITIS,
RETURN TO ADVANCE BASE CAMP,
AND ACCLIMATIZE AT NORTH COL,
JUST LIKE THE OTHER CLIMBERS,
OR THE GATE
WILL SLAM SHUT ON HIM.
[ COUGHING ]
FIVE MILES UP MOUNT EVEREST,
EXPEDITION SHERPAS
TAKE A POUNDING
AS THEY READY
HIGH CAMPS 2 AND 3.
HEY, TASHI DELE!
HOW ARE YOU?
Narrator: IF PHURBA'S TEAM
CAN BUILD ALL FOUR HIGH CAMPS
TWO WEEKS AHEAD OF SCHEDULE,
RUSSELL'S CLIMBERS WILL BE ABLE
TO BEAT THE OTHER TEAMS
TO THE SUMMIT.
IT'S A LOT OF HARD WORK FOR
THE SHERPAS, AND WE'VE BEEN HERE
AND WE'VE BEEN WORKING OUR
BOLLOCKS OFF SINCE WE ARRIVED.
WE CAN'T GO ANY FASTER.
THE SHERPAS THAT FIXED THE ROPE
HAVE BEEN HERE
FOR OVER 45 DAYS NOW,
WORKING, WORKING,
WORKING ALL THE TIME.
Narrator: RUSSELL'S PUSHING
THE CLIMBERS, TOO,
SENDING THEM UP TO THE NORTH COL
TO ACCLIMATE AT 23,000 FEET
IN HALF THE NORMAL TIME.
Man: EVERYBODY'S GOT A BIT
OF A HEAVIER LOAD TODAY,
IT SEEMS LIKE, BOB.
ONE OF THE BIGGEST SURPRISES
IS A 62-YEAR-OLD FRENCHMAN.
Russell:
VERY FIT, STRONG MAN.
THEN WE FOUND OUT
ABOUT THE CANCER,
AND I WAS PREPARED
TO GIVE HIM HIS MONEY BACK,
AND IT'S HIS DECISION TO GO
AND HAVE THE OPERATION,
THEN COME HERE.
Narrator: TWO MONTHS AGO,
GéRARD BOURRAT HAD A CANCEROUS
KIDNEY REMOVED THROUGH HIS GUT
INSTEAD OF HIS BACK TO ALLOW HIM
TO CARRY MOUNTAIN GEAR.
LET'S GO!
I'M GLAD I'M GONNA BE THERE
VERY SOON,
AND I CAN LOOK FORWARD
TO LAYING DOWN
AND LISTENING TO OTHER PEOPLE
COUGH AND SNORE.
Narrator:
MAX IS A LEBANESE BUSINESSMAN
FROM WAR-TORN BEIRUT.
MAX HAS SUMMITED THE HIGHEST
MOUNTAINS ON EVERY CONTINENT,
AND HIS SIGHTS
ARE NOW FOCUSED ON EVEREST.
RUSSELL SEES MAX
AS THE HYPERACTIVE TYPE.
Russell:
HE JUST HAS TO STOP
RUNNING AROUND
LIKE A DOG EVERYWHERE.
HE DOESN'T HAVE TO PEE
IN EVERY CORNER, YOU KNOW?
Narrator:
INSTEAD OF PACING HIMSELF,
MAX IS STUCK IN HIGH GEAR.
Russell:
DESPITE ALL THESE OTHER THINGS,
HE'S DONE ALL THE EASY ONES,
BUT HE HASN'T REALLY LEARNED
MOUNTAIN SENSE
'CAUSE HE NEEDS TO STOP
BOUNCING OFF THE WALLS
AND JUST CONSERVE HIS ENERGY
AND THINGS LIKE THAT.
GOT TO GET GOING.
Man: THANKS, MAX.
Narrator:
MOGENS REACHES NORTH COL
NEARLY THREE HOURS
UNDER RUSSELL'S FIVE-HOUR LIMIT.
MAX, GéRARD, AND THE OTHERS
SET OFF TWO HOURS BEFORE HIM
BUT ARRIVE AFTER.
ONLY ONE MAN IS MISSING.
WHY IS THE LAST PART OF THE
CLIMB IS ALWAYS THE STEEPEST?
Man: THAT'S BECAUSE YOU'RE
ON MOUNT EVEREST, MATE.
I'M FEELING IT.
THIS IS KICKING MY BUTT,
BUT THERE'S THE OBJECTIVE
RIGHT UP THERE.
Narrator:
AT CAMP 1 ON NORTH COL,
THE FIREMAN FINALLY APPEARS
JUST FIVE MINUTES
BEFORE THE DEADLINE.
Brett:
I WAS BRINGING UP THE REAR.
I FIGURED I'D CRUISE IN,
NO PROBLEM, MAN.
IT WAS COLD AND WINDY.
OH, BABY.
LUCKILY THE GUYS
THAT HAD LEFT EARLY
HAD ALREADY STARTED BREWING.
BOILED SOME NOODLES
AND SETTLED IN.
Man:
HOW WAS THE HIKE, BRETT?
THE HIKE?
PIECE OF CAKE, MAN.
JUST FIGURED I'D COME UP HERE
ALL BY MY LONESOME,
BE THE LAST ONE INTO CAMP,
MAKE SURE IT WAS NICE AND COLD
AND SNOWING.
BUT I MADE IT.
HI.
Man: HI.
Narrator: AS THE TEAM PREPARES
TO RETURN TO ADVANCED BASE CAMP,
PHURBA AND THE SHERPAS DROP DOWN
FROM THE HIGHER CAMPS
WITH SOME GOOD NEWS.
Man:
HEY, HUBBA, HUBBA.
WELL DONE.
Man: YOU THINK YOU'RE CLOSE NOW
TO BEING READY?
FEW MORE TRIPS?
[ SPEAKING INDISTINCTLY ]
RIGHT.
HEY!
[ INDISTINCT TALKING ON RADIO ]
Narrator: PHURBA'S SUCCESS IS
RADIOED DOWN TO RUSSELL AT ABC.
SO, IF THEY ARE SUCCESSFUL IN
GETTING THAT UP TO THE TOP CAMP,
WE'RE READY TO ROLL.
Narrator: WITH THE HIGH CAMPS
ALMOST READY,
RUSSELL AND HIS GUIDES
TOAST TO THE SHERPAS...
[ INDISTINCT TALKING ]
...AND ASSESS EACH CLIMBER'S
PERFORMANCE.
Russell: SO, IF WE HAVE BRETT,
MOGENS, AND TIM,
AND TIM'S
THE UNKNOWN CHARACTER HERE.
Narrator: AS THE CLIMBERS RETURN
FROM NORTH COL TO ABC,
BIG TIM WANTS
TO GET BACK IN THE GAME
FROM BASE CAMP 4,000 FEET BELOW.
Tim: IT'S KIND OF NICE DOWN HERE
AT BASE CAMP, THOUGH,
I GOT TO ADMIT,
BUT YOUR MIND STARTS WANDERING,
AND YOU START THINKING,
"THE REST OF THE TEAM'S UP TOP.
I'M DOWN HERE."
BASE CAMP TO RUSS.
COME IN.
Narrator: TIM RADIOS RUSSELL,
BEGGING FOR A SHOT AT NORTH COL
SO HE CAN QUALIFY
FOR THE SUMMIT PUSH.
HEY, RUSS,
JUST WANTED TO CONFIRM.
I'M HEADING UP,
FEELING GOOD.
Haven't lost the cough yet,
still got it.
I'M GONNA JUST TAKE IT EASY
COMING UP
if that's good with you.
IT'S YOUR DECISION.
Man: WHO'S THAT?
THAT'S TIM COMING BACK.
I SPOKE TO TIM ON THE WAY UP
AND SAID,
"WELL, YOU'VE ALWAYS BEEN
OUT OF SEQUENCE."
FIRST DAY WE GO UP,
HE'S GOING TO SLEEP.
WELL, COME ON, TIM, SHOW US
THAT YOU CAN DO SOMETHING.
IT SEEMS TO BE
THE STORY OF MY LIFE.
JUST MORE ODDS
STACKED UP AGAINST ME.
NEXT TIME WE'RE GOING UP, HE
WANTS TO GO DOWN TO BASE CAMP.
SO I SAID, "WELL, YOU'RE GOING
THE WRONG DIRECTION.
WE'RE GOING UP,
AND YOU'RE GOING DOWN."
THE WHOLE TEAM'S MOVING UP.
I DON'T WANT TO FALL
THAT FAR BEHIND.
I THINK HE'S OFF THE MARK.
AND BY THE TIME HE COMES BACK,
HE'S GOING TO BE KNACKERED
AGAIN.
TRY AND STICK WITH THE PROGRAM.
I DIDN'T HEAR NO BELL YET, SO...
I'M GOING UP.
Narrator: TIM'S DETERMINED
TO PROVE HIMSELF.
BUT TO RUSSELL,
IT'S TOO LITTLE TOO LATE.
Russell: I'M NOT REALLY PREPARED
TO TAKE HIM.
HE'S NOT IN THE TEAM.
Narrator: TIM HAS LEFT THE OTHER
CLIMBERS HIGH UP THE MOUNTAIN
AND DROPPED DOWN TO LOWER BASE
CAMP TO RECOVER FROM BRONCHITIS.
Man:
GOOD LUCK, MAN.
NOW HE'S FEELING BETTER
AND HEADS BACK TO ABC
TO PLEAD WITH RUSSELL
FOR A CHANCE AT THE SUMMIT.
Tim: I HAVE A FULL STOMACH,
ATE PRETTY WELL.
ANYWAY, STILL GOT THE COUGH,
BUT I'M WELL RESTED.
TWO DAYS DOWN HERE
AT 5,200 METERS
DEFINITELY WAS
EXACTLY WHAT I NEEDED.
THE ONLY DRAG IS
I GOT TO GO ANOTHER 14 MILES
TO GET BACK UP
TO THE REST OF THE CREW.
DON'T COUNT ME OUT YET.
BELL DIDN'T RING.
WHEN I COME DOWN,
I'LL SEE YOU ON THE OTHER SIDE.
Man:
SEE YOU, TIM. GOOD LUCK.
Narrator:
TIM HEADS UP TO CONVINCE RUSSELL
TO LET HIM CLIMB
AS HIS TEAMMATES DESCEND
FROM CAMP 1 AT NORTH COL.
[ COUGHING ]
Max: I WONDER WHETHER WE'RE ALL
ACCLIMATIZED TO DO THIS,
BUT HOPEFULLY
WITH FOUR DAYS' REST AT ABC
WE'LL BE READY TO GET ON HIGHER.
Narrator: THE CLIMBERS
HAVE SHOCKED THEIR BODIES
INTO PRODUCING
MORE RED BLOOD CELLS,
AND NOW THEY RETURN
TO ADVANCED BASE CAMP
TO COMPLETE THE PROCESS.
AND THEN IT'S JUST A MATTER OF
WAITING BEFORE BIG BOSS,
RUSSELL BRICE, SAYS GO.
Narrator: RUSSELL HAS STAKED HIS
REPUTATION AND SUMMIT ATTEMPT
ON A WEATHER WINDOW DUE TO OPEN
ON THE 12th AND 13th OF MAY.
Russell:
BEEN LOOKING AT THE WEATHER.
YEAH, I THINK I'M STILL ROLLING
FOR THIS 12th, 13th.
IT IS A GAMBLE.
Narrator: BRETT IS ONE
OF THE FIRST TO REACH ABC.
BUT MARK IS STOPPED
IN HIS TRACKS.
Man:
SO, TELL US YOUR STORY, MATE?
BLOODY CLIENT'S BROKEN HIS LEG.
WHAT AM I GOING TO DO?
Narrator: THIS IS ONE CLIMBING
ACCIDENT RUSSELL CAN ENJOY.
HAVE TO PULL ANOTHER ONE
OUT OF THE BARREL.
I'M JUST GOING TO PULL
ANOTHER ONE OUT OF THE BARREL,
TAKE A FEW NUTS AND BOLTS UP,
AND STRAP IT ON AGAIN.
Narrator:
RUSSELL WILL SEND A SHERPA UP
WITH A SPARE LEG FOR MARK.
Russell:
HE'S GOING TO GET A RIGHT LEG
AND TAKE IT BACK TO THE BOTTOM
OF THE FIXED ROPES.
Man: WOULD YOU CONSIDER CARRYING
A SPARE LEG FROM NOW ON?
IN THE MEANTIME, MARK'S GOING TO
HOP DOWN TO THE BOTTOM.
BLOODY CLIENT.
Brett: I DIDN'T HAVE THE ENERGY
TO GO BACK UP
AND HELP COWBOY AND BOB.
YEAH, WE'VE GOT A BROKEN LEG
IN THE TEAM.
WHAT?!
HE'S GOT A BROKEN LEG.
[ LAUGHTER ]
OH. YEAH.
YOU HAD ME
FOR A SECOND.
I KNOW WHAT'S GOING ON,
AND YOU STILL GOT ME.
ALL RIGHT, I'M DELIRIOUS.
I'M GONNA GO EAT.
Narrator: MARK'S
NOT THE ONLY WALKING WOUNDED
HEADED FOR ADVANCED BASE CAMP.
Tim: 30 MILES ROUND TRIP
OVER ROCK AND ICE,
20,000 FEET WITH A CRACKED RIB.
DOING GOOD, A LITTLE HUNGRY.
YOU KNOW, IN MY OPINION,
HE'S ALREADY MAKING HIS EXCUSES
AS A NICE WAY OUT,
THAT, "YEAH,
THIS IS TOO HARD FOR ME."
OR, "I CAN'T DO IT BECAUSE I'VE
GOT THIS AND THAT AND THINGS."
[ MAN SHOUTS INDISTINCTLY ]
YO, MY L.A. BROTHER.
SOLD?
ALL RIGHT.
WHO SOLD MY TENT?
I DON'T KNOW.
PROBABLY RUSSELL.
SON OF A BITCH.
Brett: THERE'S MY NEIGHBOR TIM
THAT I'M GOING TO SUE.
I THINK I'M GOING TO START COURT
PROCEEDINGS TOMORROW, ACTUALLY.
HE'S ACTUALLY USING
THE AMERICAN GHETTO
COMMUNITY URINAL RIGHT NOW,
WHICH IS REALLY IMPRESSIVE.
HEY, NEIGHBOR,
HOW YOU DOING OVER THERE?
YEAH,
I'LL SEE YOU IN COURT, PAL.
HE'LL BE LONG GONE
PRETTY SOON.
Narrator: RUSSELL'S CREW
HAS BEEN SNOOPING AROUND
TO SEE WHAT THE OTHER
EXPEDITIONS ARE UP TO.
Russell:
SEVEN SUMMITS. WHAT DAY?
YEAH,
JUST TELL ME THE OTHER TEAMS.
YEP, OKAY,
THANK YOU VERY MUCH, GRAHAM.
Narrator: NO ONE'S LEAVING FOR
THE SUMMIT AS EARLY AS RUSSELL,
AND NO ONE IS MORE PREPARED.
THE RUMOR GOING AROUND
IS EVERYONE'S THINKING
THAT THEY'RE GOING EARLY.
BUT YOU SEE MAX IS 15,
VINCE IS 17, INDIAN -- 15.
SEVEN SUMMITS I KNOW
THAT ARE MUCH LATER
BECAUSE THEY'RE NOT READY YET
AND SO ON.
THEY'VE GOT A SHITLOAD OF GEAR
TO GET UP THE HILL.
Narrator: THE TEAM'S
SECRET SUMMIT DEPARTURE
IS RAPIDLY APPROACHING,
AND TIM MUST CONVINCE
HIS SKEPTICAL LEADER
HE'S GOT THE JUICE
BY ACCLIMATING AT NORTH COL.
SO, I'M GOING TO SPEND THE NIGHT
THERE TOMORROW.
YOU'RE OKAY WITH THAT,
RIGHT?
Russell: YEAH, ONE OF
THE SHERPAS HAS GONE UP.
I'LL MAKE SURE
YOU'RE NOT BY YOURSELF.
I DON'T CARE. I ACTUALLY
PREFER TO BE BY MYSELF.
I'M HAPPY YOU GOING UP AND DOWN
BY YOURSELF.
NORTH COL, IF YOU CAN'T
GO UP AND DOWN THERE,
THEN YOU'VE NO RIGHT
TO BE ON MY EXPEDITION.
NO. NO WORRIES.
GO TOMORROW.
I'LL FIND SOMEONE TO BE UP THERE
TOMORROW NIGHT.
ALL RIGHT, BOSS.
Russell:
TIM -- HE'S A BIG BOY.
HE SHOULD BE PLAYING RUGBY,
NOT TRYING TO CLIMB MOUNTAINS.
Tim: IT'S GONNA KILL ME.
WHAT ARE YOU GONNA DO?
IT'S MOUNT EVEREST, MAN.
GOT TO SUCK IT UP.
GOT A GUY HERE WITH NO LEGS.
WHAT AM I COMPLAINING ABOUT?
Narrator: RUSSELL
HAS TOTALLY WRITTEN TIM OFF,
JUST LIKE THE SURGEONS DID
AFTER A CYCLE CRASH
ALMOST COST HIM HIS LEG.
Tim: THE ACCIDENT --
WHEN YOU HAVE ALL THE DOCTORS
TELLING YOU,
YOU CAN'T DO THIS,
YOU CAN'T DO THAT --
THAT'S WHAT MOTIVATES ME
IF SOMEONE SAYS
YOU CAN'T DO SOMETHING.
LITTLE BEHIND THE TEAM,
SO TYPICAL TIM FASHION -- SOLO.
NOT A TEAM PLAYER.
I'M UP HERE PRETTY MUCH ALONE.
[ COUGHING ]
DEFINITELY GOT SOME CONCERNS.
I'M HAVING A HARD TIME
CATCHING MY WIND.
LIKE, NOW'S A GOOD TIME
FOR A BREAK.
Narrator:
WHILE TIM CATCHES HIS BREATH,
RUSSELL TALKS OXYGEN
DOWN AT ADVANCED BASE CAMP.
THESE ARE
VERY DANGEROUS.
THIS IS THREE-LITER.
THIS IS FOUR-LITER.
THIS IS WHAT YOU GUYS
ARE GONNA BE USING
'CAUSE IT'S MUCH HEAVIER.
THE SHERPAS HAVE BEEN USING
THESE LITTLE WIMPY ONES.
THESE ARE FILLED TO AROUND
ABOUT 500 BAR, PRESSURE,
SO EFFECTIVELY
IT'S A TIME BOMB.
IT'S TRYING TO EXPLODE.
IF YOU MIX ANY HYDROCARBON
WITH HIGH-PRESSURE OXYGEN,
IT WILL EXPLODE.
LIP SALVE, BUTTER,
CREAM ON THE TOP OF THIS THREAD
YOU'LL BLOW YOUR HEAD OFF, OKAY?
SO I SUGGEST
THAT YOU DON'T DO THAT.
Narrator: IN THE DEATH ZONE,
THE BRAIN IS STARVED FOR OXYGEN.
CLIMBERS HARDLY REMEMBER
THEIR OWN NAMES,
SO CHANGING THESE TANKS
MUST BECOME SECOND NATURE.
AH, IT'S QUITE UNCOMFORTABLE
HERE AT 21,000 FEET.
I CAN IMAGINE WHAT IT CAN BE
UP THERE
WHERE YOU CAN BARELY THINK.
Russell:
HOW DOES THAT FEEL?
DOES THAT FEEL OKAY?
NOT TOO TIGHT,
NOT TOO LOOSE.
THERE IS A FACE UNDER HERE.
HELLO.
[ MAN GROANS ]
[ LAUGHTER ]
Narrator: BUT THE O2 LESSON
IS ACADEMIC TO MOGENS.
HE'S A GENETIC FREAK --
BASICALLY BORN WITH FIVE LUNGS.
Narrator: MOGENS PLANS TO SUMMIT
WITHOUT BOTTLED OXYGEN.
LESS THAN 100 CLIMBERS
HAVE EVER ACHIEVED THIS FEAT,
AND NONE OF THEM HAD ASTHMA.
Mogens:
IF YOU HAVE 100 PEOPLE
STANDING ON THE SUMMIT
OF EVEREST,
3% MAYBE 4% ARE HAVING DONE IT
WITHOUT O's.
SO, YEAH, ITS LIKE NIGHT AND DAY
DOING IT WITH
AND WITHOUT THE MASK.
IT'S A SPECIAL CLUB.
Narrator: 1,000 FEET ABOVE,
TIM AND AN EXPEDITION SHERPA
ARE NOW HALFWAY UP TO NORTH COL.
Tim: RADIO.
GOT A CIGARETTE?
NO.
NO?
Narrator: TIM'S RéSUMé
IS A LONG LIST OF CLOSE CALLS
AND NEAR-DEATH EXPERIENCES.
ONCE, IT WAS
MOTORCYCLE CRASHES.
NOW IT'S CROSSING BOTTOMLESS
CREVASSES WITH A HACKING COUGH.
BUT FOR TIM, THAT'S WHAT
BEING ALIVE IS ABOUT.
Tim: NEVER QUITE UNDERSTOOD
THE CONCEPT
OF SAVING UP YOUR WHOLE LIFE
AND THEN SPEND IT
WHEN YOU'RE OLD.
YOUR LIFE CAN BE TAKEN FROM YOU
LIKE THAT -- BOOM.
Narrator:
TIM REACHES CAMP 1 AT NORTH COL
JUST UNDER THE QUALIFYING TIME
OF FIVE HOURS.
Tim:
WHOO. I COULD EAT A BEAR.
Narrator:
RUSSELL IS RELIEVED TO SEE HIM
BUT STILL CONVINCED THE 6'5"
DAREDEVIL WILL BE A LIABILITY
ON THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT
JUST THREE DAYS AWAY.
I GOT A LITTLE BIT OF STEAM
LEFT IN ME, NOT MUCH, THOUGH.
Narrator: RUSSELL IS CERTAIN
TIM WILL HIT THE WALL
AND DROP OUT OF THE EXPEDITION.
Russell: I'D HOPE THAT WE CAN
GET HIM TO CAMP 2, AS WELL,
AND THEN HE DROPS OUT.
AND I REALLY WOULD WANT HIM
TO STRUGGLE
AND PUSH HARD TO HIS LIMIT.
IT'S BETTER FOR HIM
TO MAKE THE DECISION
AND FAIL ON HIS OWN.
LET HIM BUILD IT UP
AND MAKE HIS OWN CHOICE.
AND HE KNOWS.
I MEAN, IF IT TAKES HIM 8
OR 10 HOURS TO GET TO CAMP 2,
HE'S GONNA KNOW
IT'S DONE.
THE ONLY PROBLEM I GOT RIGHT NOW
IS AN EMPTY STOMACH.
DINNER.
Narrator: BUT HIGH UP
AT CAMP 1 ON NORTH COL,
TIM IS HIS OLD SELF AGAIN.
WE'RE UP ON THE NORTH COL
ON MOUNT EVEREST.
WE'RE GONNA COOK SOME SOUP
TODAY.
FIRST, START OFF
WITH A LITTLE WATER.
THEN WE PUT A LITTLE NOODLE
IN THERE,
LITTLE CHILLI,
LITTLE CHEESE.
I LIKE TO CALL THIS
MY NEW ORLEANS SHERPA SOUP.
OH, YEAH.
YEAH, VERY GOOD,
VERY GOOD.
RAM ROLL.
RAM ROLL.
STIR IT UP THERE.
GIVE IT A LITTLE BIT MORE BAM!
NOW WE'RE GONNA TAKE
A COMMERCIAL BREAK,
AND WE'LL DIVVY IT UP HERE.
BAM!
Narrator:
TIM LEAVES EVEREST'S NORTH COL
CONVINCED HE WILL QUALIFY
FOR THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT
THREE DAYS AWAY.
SLOW AND STEADY WINS THE RACE,
SO HOPEFULLY THAT'LL BE
THE OUTCOME OF THIS ONE.
Narrator:
BUT DOWN AT ADVANCED BASE CAMP,
THE WEATHER THROWS RUSSELL
A CURVE.
A STORM HAS COME OUT OF NOWHERE
AND SLAMS SHUT THE GATE.
THE ONLY THING THAT CAN PUSH ME
AROUND IS THE WEATHER,
AND THAT'S WHAT IT'S DOING.
Narrator: RUSSELL HAS DECIDED
TO SEND TWO TEAMS TO THE SUMMIT
ON SUCCESSIVE DATES,
BUT NOW THE CLIMBS
ARE BOTH DELAYED BY A DAY.
WE'RE GOING TO THE SUMMIT
THE 13th, 14th NOW.
14th THE WIND IS HERE,
BUT THEN 15, 16, 17
THE WIND PICKS UP AGAIN
AND GOES THROUGH A LEVEL
THAT I'M NOT HAPPY WITH,
WE'RE TALKING ABOUT A WEEK
IN ADVANCE OF WHAT'S HAPPENING.
YOU'RE NOT TALKING ABOUT
SITTING DOWN HERE
IN THE NICE, COMFORTABLE ABC
IN THE SUN.
WE'RE TALKING ABOUT
WHAT'S HAPPENING
IN FIVE, SIX DAYS' TIME
UP ON THE MOUNTAIN.
WHO WANTS THE GOOD NEWS
AND THE BAD NEWS?
BAD NEWS FIRST.
BAD NEWS FIRST?
IT'S GOING TO BE WINDY.
BUT I NEED TO GET
A BETTER FORECAST TODAY,
SO WE'RE STILL BALANCING.
SO HANG FIRE
ONE MORE DAY, GUYS.
Narrator:
WHEN TIM LUMBERS INTO CAMP,
THE ONE-DAY DELAY
GIVES HIM 24 HOURS MORE TO REST.
Man:
HOW YOU DOING, BIG MAN?
HEY, HEY, HEY.
FEELING GOOD.
HUNGRY AS USUAL.
[ LAUGHS ]
[ INDISTINCT TALKING ]
Narrator: TIM'S HUMOR AND GUTS
HAVE WON OVER THE SHERPAS,
HIS FELLOW CLIMBERS, AND
RUSSELL, IN SPITE OF HIMSELF.
Russell: I LOVE HIM.
I THINK HE'S A GREAT CHARACTER.
IT'S NICE TO HAVE HIM HERE.
Terry: AND HE RESPECTS
YOUR STAFF, TOO.
HE LOVES THEM, AND HE SPEAKS
NEPALESE WITH THEM,
AND THEY LOVE HIM
BECAUSE OF THAT.
'CAUSE HE'S TOOLO.
HE'S TOOLO YETI.
[ LAUGHTER ]
HE'S TOOLO YETI.
TOOLO YETI.
Bill: YEAH, KICKING HIM OUT
OF THE KITCHEN.
"OUT OF MY KITCHEN!"
Woman:
HE'S A HUNGRY BOY.
Man:
HE'S ALWAYS HUNGRY.
MMM.
OH, MAN.
THIS IS THE BEST EGGS
AND POTATOES
I'VE EVER HAD IN MY LIFE.
GOOD TO BE BACK.
Narrator:
WHILE TIM FILLS HIS STOMACH,
RUSSELL STUDIES
THE LATEST FORECASTS.
Russell: 19 DIFFERENT PICTURES
AND MAPS AND CHARTS AND THINGS.
NEED TO LOOK TO THAT TO CONFIRM,
LET'S KEEP GOING.
Narrator:
TO MEET RUSSELL'S DEADLINE,
THE SHERPAS RACE
TO DELIVER SUPPLIES TO CAMP 4.
THE SPOT'S SO STEEP,
THEY HAVE TO CUT TRENCHES
TO KEEP OXYGEN BOTTLES
FROM SLIDING DOWN THE MOUNTAIN.
RUSSELL CAN ONLY HOPE
THE SHERPAS WILL RETURN SAFELY
IN TIME FOR THE NEW SUMMIT DAYS.
[ CHEERS AND APPLAUSE ]
ALL THESE BRIGHT LIGHTS.
THE SHERPAS RETURN TO ABC
AND CONFIRM
THAT ALL HIGH CAMPS ARE READY.
THE GATEWAY TO THE SUMMIT
HAS BEEN PRIED BACK OPEN.
Man:
PHURBA, WHERE DID YOU GO?
8-3.
IS THAT CAMP 4?
CAMP 4. YEAH.
Russell: THE WEATHER WAS GOOD,
AND THE BOYS WERE GREAT,
SO THESE BOYS CAN HAVE
A BIT OF A REST TOMORROW.
I'M THEIR BIGGEST FAN.
IT'S OUT OF THIS WORLD.
JUST BLOWS ME AWAY.
I CAME OUT TO THANK THEM.
THANK YOU.
Narrator: ALL THE PIECES
HAVE FALLEN TOGETHER.
THE TEAM HAS ACCLIMATED
IN HALF THE NORMAL TIME.
AND THE SHERPAS
HAVE PULLED OFF A NEAR MIRACLE.
THE SUMMIT ATTEMPT IS NOW A GO
IN JUST 12 HOURS.
BUT ON EVEREST,
12 HOURS IS AN ETERNITY.
NEXT TIME ON "EVEREST" --
RUSSELL'S DEMONS RETURN
TO HAUNT HIM.
IT'S DANGEROUS.
IF IT GOES WRONG,
IT GOES REALLY, REALLY WRONG.
YOU CAN DIE.
TO KEEP HIS AMBITIONS ALIVE,
THE KING OF THE MOUNTAIN
LAYS DOWN THE LAW.
Russell: BUT, REMEMBER, ALSO,
THEY ARE MERE MORTALS.
IT'S NOT THEIR JOB
TO DIE ALONGSIDE YOU
BECAUSE OF YOUR AMBITIONS.
Narrator:
EACH STEP IS AN ETERNITY,
EACH BREATH A BATTLE,
AS EIGHT MEN PUSH THE LIMIT
ON EVEREST.
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