Everest: Beyond the Limit (2006–…): Season 1, Episode 1 - Summit Dreams - full transcript

The climbers arrive to discover one of the expedition Sherpas died the day before from altitude sickness. Russell Brice is distraught and the climbers stunned. It's a bad start, but 2006 will get worse and finish as one of the deadliest on record. The climbers are shocked to discover how badly their minds and bodies cope as they start their acclimatisation climbs. They must push themselves through new levels of pain to prove to themselves and team leader Russell Brice they have the courage and strength to reach the summit. It's them against the mountain and the threat of death is never far away as the expedition copes with two major emergencies.

HOW MUCH TIME
DO I HAVE LEFT?

YOU DO NOT HAVE THE STRENGTH
TO GO TO THE SUMMIT.

I DON'T WANT YOU TO DIE.

I'VE GOT PLENTY OF OXYGEN
TO GET ME UP AND BACK.

YOU CAN'T CLIMB A MOUNTAIN
ON YOUR HANDS AND KNEES.

NOW TURN AROUND.

I'VE GOT PLENTY OF LEG
IN ME, MAN.

GET OUT OF THE WAY OR GO.

Narrator: WHAT HAPPENS
WHEN A HANDFUL OF DREAMERS

TAKE ON THE MOTHER
OF ALL MOUNTAINS?

STRANGERS TO EACH OTHER,



THEY SHARE A DREAM
THEY'RE WILLING TO DIE FOR.

THERE'S JUST SOMETHING VERY
MAGICAL ABOUT THIS MOUNTAIN.

BIGGEST, BADDEST MOUNTAIN
IN THE WORLD.

Narrator:
ONLY THIS MAN, A LIVING LEGEND,

CAN MAKE THEIR DREAM COME TRUE.

NOTHING COMES FOR FREE HERE.
NOW THE WORK STARTS.

Narrator:
IN A TWO-MONTH ORDEAL,

EIGHT HEROIC MEN
AND ONE DETERMINED LEADER

STRUGGLE TO THE SUMMIT
OF COURAGE AND OBSESSION.

WE ARE LEAVING NOW.

THIS IS EVEREST UP CLOSE,

AS YOU'VE NEVER
SEEN IT BEFORE --

THROUGH THE EYES
OF COURAGEOUS CLIMBERS

AND EXCEPTIONAL MEN.



THE TEAM BATTLES THE MOUNTAIN

IN ONE OF THE MOST DEADLY AND
CONTROVERSIAL SEASONS ON RECORD.

CLIMBERS WILL LOSE FINGERS
AND TOES TO FROSTBITE,

AND 11 DIE.

I WOULDN'T WISH SUMMIT DAY
UPON MY WORST ENEMY.

PEOPLE DIE.

Narrator: THE ULTIMATE QUESTION
OF THE ULTIMATE CLIMB --

IS EVEREST WORTH THE PRICE?

CAPTIONS PAID FOR BY
DISCOVERY COMMUNICATIONS

A TEAM OF CLIMBERS
HAVE MADE A DEADLY WAGER --

THEIR OWN STRENGTH AND ENDURANCE

AGAINST THE MOUNTAIN
CALLED EVEREST.

EACH KNOWS HE MAY NEVER
MAKE IT HOME ALIVE.

GOD DAMN, LET'S GET IT ON.

THE TEAM INCLUDES
TERRY O'CONNOR,

AN EMERGENCY-ROOM DOCTOR
FROM OREGON...

SPIT!

...MAX CHAYA FROM LEBANON,

AND MOGENS JENSEN,
AN ASTHMATIC FROM DENMARK.

THIS IS HUGE.

Narrator:
MARK INGLIS IS A DRIVEN MAN

WITH LOTS OF GUTS BUT NO LEGS.

BRETT MERRELL, AN L.A. FIREMAN,

IS ON HIS SECOND ATTEMPT
AT EVEREST.

LONG WAY TO GO.

Narrator:
AND FINALLY, TIM MEDVETZ,

WHO MADE A VOW TO SUMMIT
AFTER A NEAR-FATAL BIKE CRASH.

Tim: IT REALLY WAKES YOU UP.

YOUR LIFE CAN BE TAKEN
FROM YOU LIKE THAT -- BOOM.

Narrator: EACH MAN HAS SCRIMPED,
SAVED, AND SACRIFICED

TO MAKE A PILGRIMAGE

FEW PEOPLE IN THE WORLD
WOULD DARE ATTEMPT --

A TREK TO THE HIGHEST POINT
ON THE PLANET.

THIS IS THE LAST GREAT
HUMAN ADVENTURE.

Narrator: JUST TO REACH
THE FOOT OF EVEREST

TAKES SEVEN OVERNIGHT STOPS

TO ADJUST TO THE RISING
ELEVATIONS.

GOOD TO SEE YOU.
WHAT A SIGHT.

I'M READY TO CLIMB.

BASE CAMP IS ALREADY HIGHER THAN
ANY MOUNTAIN IN THE ROCKIES.

HERE, THEY HAVE ONE WEEK

TO PREPARE FOR THE TWO-MONTH
CAMPAIGN TO THE SUMMIT.

DON'T FORGET THE FOOD.

THEY'VE SIGNED UP WITH
EXPEDITION LEADER RUSSELL BRICE.

NICE, GENTLE STROLL.

Russell: THEY'VE GOT A DREAM,

THEY'VE GOT AN AMBITION
TO REACH THE SUMMIT UP HERE,

AND IF I CAN HELP THESE PEOPLE
PUSH THEMSELVES TO THEIR LIMITS

FOR THEM TO FULFILL THAT DREAM

AND FOR THEM TO SHED A TEAR
ON THE SUMMIT,

THEN I'VE FULFILLED MY GOAL.

Narrator: RUSSELL BRICE
IS A MOUNTAINEERING LEGEND.

HIS DARING CLIMBS
UP EVEREST'S MOST TRYING ROUTES

HAVE MADE HISTORY.

AND HE'S TAKEN MORE PEOPLE
TO THE SUMMIT THAN ANY OTHER.

WE'VE HAD 137 PEOPLE
ON THE SUMMIT OF EVEREST.

Narrator: A NEW ZEALANDER,

HE'S MADE THE MOUNTAIN
HIS SECOND HOME

AND THE SHERPAS
HIS EXTENDED FAMILY.

Russell: I KNOW THE YAK MEN.
I KNOW THE SHERPAS.

I KNOW THIS VALLEY.

I'VE BEEN HERE
MORE THAN MOST WHITE PEOPLE.

Narrator:
CLIMBERS COME TO RUSSELL

BECAUSE HE'S NEVER HAD A DEATH
ON ANY OF HIS 13 EXPEDITIONS.

THE SHERPAS CALL HIM
KING OF THE MOUNTAIN,

BUT RUSS KNOWS BETTER.

Russell: I'M NOT KING
ON THIS MOUNTAIN, MAN.

NO ONE'S KING.

ONLY THE MOUNTAIN IS KING,
NOT US.

WE'RE MERE MORTALS.

Narrator:
NO INSURANCE COMPANY ON EARTH

WILL COVER RUSSELL'S BUSINESS.

HIS ONLY PROTECTION
IS KNOWLEDGE, DISCIPLINE,

AND THE SKILLS OF HIS SHERPAS,

THE BACKBONE
OF ANY EVEREST EXPEDITION.

BUT BEFORE
THE GREAT CLIMB BEGINS,

TRAGEDY HITS BASE CAMP.

[ CLANGING ]

UM...

ONE OF OUR SHERPAS DIED.

SO, I'M SORRY.

Narrator: THE SHERPA WAS HAULING
SUPPLIES TO A HIGH CAMP

WHEN HE WAS STRUCK DOWN
BY ALTITUDE SICKNESS,

A THREAT
TO ALL EVEREST CLIMBERS.

Russell: HE'S A YOUNG NEPALI BOY

THAT WORKED FOR PHURBA
AS HIS COOK,

AND PHURBA WANTED TO HELP HIM
BY BRINGING HIM HERE.

UM...

WE'VE ALREADY --
[CLEARS THROAT]

SORRY.
WE'VE ALREADY CREMATED HIM.

IT'S FINISHED, SORTED.

[ Voice breaking ] I'VE GOT TO
GET BACK TOGETHER AGAIN.

Narrator:
IT'S THE FIRST TIME RUSSELL

HAS LOST ANYONE ON HIS TEAM,

CLIMBER OR SHERPA.

OKAY.

LET'S GET ON WITH THE JOB OF
GETTING UP THE MOUNTAIN SAFELY.

SHALL WE GO FOR A WALK-AROUND?

YEAH.
YEAH.YEAH.

I'VE HAD TO DEAL WITH
A LOT OF BODIES IN THE PAST,

BUT THIS IS THE WORST THING
THAT CAN EVER HAPPEN TO ME

IS ONE OF MY SHERPAS DIE,

SO I'M PRETTY SAD TODAY.

SHERPA HAS DIED,
AND IT'S JUST A TRAGEDY.

TO SEE RUSSELL
IN TEARS LIKE THAT --

YOU KNOW, THIS STRONG GUY
WHO I LOOK UP TO.

AND SEEING HIM
ALL BREAKING DOWN LIKE THAT,

IT KIND OF HUMBLES YOU
A LITTLE, YOU KNOW?

IT'S NOT GOING TO BE EASY

FOR US TO START
THE EXPEDITION LIKE THIS.

Narrator: BUT RUSSELL
HAS NO TIME TO GRIEVE.

THE WEATHER LOOSENS ITS GRIP
ON THE SUMMIT

FOR JUST TWO WEEKS A YEAR,

AND HIS CLIMBERS MUST BE READY.

THE CLIMB TO THE TOP
OF THE WORLD IS MIND-BLOWING.

FROM BASE CAMP,
3 MILES ABOVE SEA LEVEL,

RUSSELL'S CLIMBERS
MUST TREK 4,000 FEET HIGHER

TO ADVANCED BASE CAMP.

FROM ADVANCED BASE CAMP,

THEY'LL SCALE THE TREACHEROUS,
1,000-FOOT ICE CLIFFS

TO A RIDGE CALLED THE NORTH COL.

AND EVENTUALLY,
WITH A LITTLE LUCK,

THEY'LL MAKE IT TO HIGH CAMP 3.

BUT THEN THEY'LL ENTER
THE DEATH ZONE AT 26,000 FEET.

IN THE DEATH ZONE,
THE AIR HAS SO LITTLE OXYGEN

AND STRESS ON THE CLIMBER
IS SO MASSIVE,

THE BODY
EATS ITS OWN FLESH TO SURVIVE

AND THE BRAIN STARTS TO CRASH.

AT THE SUMMIT,

THE CLIMBERS FACE TEMPERATURES
OF MINUS 40 DEGREES,

FREEZING EXPOSED SKIN
IN LESS THAN 30 SECONDS,

AND THEY MAY NOT
MAKE IT DOWN ALIVE

BEFORE THEIR OXYGEN BOTTLES
GO ON EMPTY.

THIS YEAR, BASE CAMP
SEES 600 CLIMBERS IN 71 TEAMS

COMPETING FOR A CHANCE
TO SUMMIT.

IT'S THE BUSIEST SEASON EVER

AND, FOR SOME, IT'S A DISASTER
WAITING TO HAPPEN.

I DON'T WANT TO PUT, LIKE,
A BAD FEELING OVER THE CAMP,

BUT I GOT A FEELING
THAT THERE'S GONNA BE

SOME BAD THINGS HAPPEN
THIS YEAR

'CAUSE THERE'S JUST
TOO MANY PEOPLE ON THE MOUNTAIN.

[ SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE ]

Narrator: CONQUERING EVEREST
IS LIKE WAGING WAR.

THE LOGISTICS OF GETTING
CLIMBERS TO THE SUMMIT

ARE A NIGHTMARE.

Russell: IT'S A SMALL VILLAGE.
WE HAD 6 3-TON TRUCKS.

THAT'S 18 TONS
THAT CAME THIS YEAR.

WE'VE GOT 63 PEOPLE HERE
FOR A MONTH AND A HALF,

SO IT'S A LOT OF FOOD, AS WELL.

Narrator: THE COST
TO EACH CLIMBER IS $40,000.

IT COVERS EQUIPMENT,
FOOD, OXYGEN,

AND THE WAGES OF RUSSELL'S
HANDPICKED ARMY OF SHERPAS.

FROM HERE UP, ONLY THE BARE
ESSENTIALS CAN BE CARRIED.

16.
NICE.

JUST TRYING TO GET CAUGHT UP
ON THE PACKING GAME.

SOMETIMES WHEN I LOOK
AT ALL THIS CRAP,

I WONDER WHY
I DIDN'T TAKE UP SURFING.

OH, LOOK, NO.
ADJUST THE TENSION HERE.

YEAH.
PROBLEM SOLVED.

Narrator: DESPITE RUSSELL'S
PLANNING AND PRECAUTIONS,

CLIMBING EVEREST
REMAINS A DEADLY GAMBLE.

Russell: IF YOU'RE COMING
TO CLIMB MOUNT EVEREST,

YEAH, IT'S DANGEROUS.

AND IF YOU COME HERE,

YOU SHOULD MAKE A FIRM DECISION
IN YOUR OWN MIND

THAT THIS IS DANGEROUS,
IT'S NOT EASY,

IT'S NOT GOING TO BE
A WALK IN THE PARK,

AND THERE IS A CHANCE TO DIE.

Narrator: THE DEATH OF THE YOUNG
SHERPA IS A HEAVY BLOW.

THE REST OF THE SHERPAS
WON'T SET FOOT ON EVEREST

UNTIL THEY ARE BLESSED.

EVEN THE CLIMBERS
JOIN THE CEREMONY,

HOPING FOR SAFE PASSAGE.

Max:
THIS IS WHAT THEY CALL THE PUJA,

AND IT'S A BUDDHIST CEREMONY
TO PURIFY THE MOUNTAIN

AND TO ASK THE MOUNTAIN GODS

TO ALLOW US TO CLIMB THE
MOUNTAIN AND COME BACK SAFELY.

Narrator:
AS THE PUJA CEREMONY PLAYS OUT,

EVEN RUSSELL CAN'T PREDICT

WHAT THE MOUNTAIN
WILL THROW AT HIM NEXT.

Russell: EVERY MINUTE
OF THE DAY, I'M AFRAID.

WE DON'T KNOW WHAT THE WEATHER'S
GOING TO THROW AT US.

WE DON'T KNOW WHO'S GOING TO
HAVE HEART ATTACKS.

WE DON'T KNOW WHO'S GOING TO
FALL OVER AND BREAK THEIR LEG

AND JUST NOT BE ABLE
TO GET BACK DOWN.

WE HAVE NO IDEA
OF THESE THINGS.

THERE ARE SO MANY THINGS
THAT CAN GO WRONG.

Narrator: FAST-FORWARD A MONTH,
AND THEY DO.

I WOULDN'T WISH SUMMIT DAY
UPON MY WORST ENEMY.

I THINK I MADE A MISTAKE.

I'M SORRY, DESPERATELY SORRY.

[ ALL CHANTING ]

Narrator:
AT EVEREST BASE CAMP,

RUSSELL AND HIS TEAM
HIT DISASTER

ON DAY ONE OF THE EXPEDITION.

[ ALL SHOUTING ]

AFTER PAYING THEIR RESPECTS
TO THE GODS OF THE MOUNTAIN,

THEY MUST MOVE ON.

Russell:
IT'S ALL FAIRLY SYMBOLIC.

IT MEANS WE CAN GET CLIMBING
ON THE MOUNTAIN.

Narrator: THE CLIMBERS
HAVE SPENT A WEEK PREPARING

AND ARE READY TO ROLL.

BUT FOR ONE,
THE CHALLENGE IS UNIQUE.

MARK INGLIS HAS A HANDICAP

THAT WOULD STOP MOST PEOPLE FROM
CLIMBING A FLIGHT OF STAIRS.

NEVERTHELESS,

HE INTENDS TO BE THE FIRST MAN
TO SUMMIT EVEREST WITHOUT LEGS.

HE'S LOSING HIS VOICE
IN THE THIN AIR,

BUT HIS NEW CARBON-FIBER
LEGS ARE WORKING WELL.

BEFORE LEAVING BASE CAMP,

MARK HAS
SOME UNFINISHED BUSINESS.

ON A PREVIOUS TRAINING CLIMB
IN THE HIMALAYAS,

MARK MET TEELAY.

24 YEARS AGO,
MARK WAS TRAPPED ON THE SUMMIT

OF THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN
IN NEW ZEALAND

IN THE WORST STORM
OF THE DECADE.

Mark: WE SAT THERE
FOR 13 1/2 DAYS IN TOTAL,

AND WE LOST 40%
OF OUR BODY WEIGHT.

THE OTHER THING THAT HAPPENED

WAS FROSTBITE
STARTED TO SET IN.

Narrator:
MARK'S LEGS WERE FROZEN SOLID

AND HAD TO BE AMPUTATED.

AS HIS OLD FRIEND
SMILES IN DISBELIEF,

MARK FITS HIM UP
WITH A SECOND CHANCE.

HE'S COMING AROUND
PRETTY QUICK, HUH?

YEAH, THAT'S IT.

[ APPLAUSE ]

[ LAUGHS ]
THAT'S GREAT.

[ MAN CHEERS ]

WHOO-HOO.

LOOK AT THE SMILE ON HIS FACE.
IT'S WORTH A MILLION BUCKS.

O'Connor: THIS IS THE BEST
HIGH-ALTITUDE PHYSICAL THERAPY
I'VE EVER SEEN.

[ LAUGHS ] IT'S FANTASTIC.

YEAH, TEELAY.

[ LAUGHTER ]

HE'S HAPPY, VERY HAPPY.

HE HASN'T WALKED FOR 20 YEARS.

THIS MUST BE LIKE, YOU KNOW,
A MIRACLE FOR HIM.

Tim: I AM READY TO GET OUT
OF THIS DUST BOWL DOWN HERE.

GET IN SOME SNOW AND ICE
AND GET IT ON.

YES, SIR!

Narrator:
NOW THE TIME HAS COME TO CLIMB.

IT'S BRUTALLY UPHILL.

SO, THIS IS WHERE IT STARTS
GETTING STICKY.

ALWAYS LATE,
BUT WORTH THE WAIT.

Narrator:
THIS IS THEIR FIRST OBJECTIVE --

A FREEZING WAY STATION
CALLED ADVANCED BASE CAMP.

GETTING THERE
MEANS A 14-MILE, 2-DAY TREK

THROUGH A MAZE OF ROCKS
AND ICE WALLS.

EN ROUTE TO ADVANCED BASE CAMP,

THE TEAM CLIMBS
4,000 FEET HIGHER.

THE AIR IS SO THIN,

HELICOPTER RESCUES
ARE IMPOSSIBLE.

A BROKEN ANKLE
WILL END A CLIMBER'S DREAM

IN A HEARTBEAT.

AND FROM HERE UP,

ALTITUDE SICKNESS
IS A CLEAR AND PRESENT DANGER.

EVERY 1,500 FEET GAINED,

THE TEAM MUST REST OVERNIGHT

AND ALLOW THEIR BODIES TO ADJUST
TO THE HIGHER ALTITUDE.

A FAST ASCENT WOULD BE DEADLY.

Terry: IF YOU WERE TO GO
FROM SEA LEVEL TO THE SUMMIT,

GET DROPPED OFF IN SOME SORT OF
MAGICAL HELICOPTER UP THERE,

YOU'D PROBABLY SURVIVE
WITHOUT OXYGEN

PROBABLY IN THE ORDER OF MINUTES
TO A HALF-HOUR TOPS

BEFORE YOUR BRAIN
BEGAN TO SWELL,

YOUR LUNGS FILLED WITH FLUID,

AND YOU WOULD ESSENTIALLY
ASPHYXIATE AND GO COMATOSE.

Narrator:
AS THE MEN CLIMB HIGHER,

VICTIMS OF
HIGH-ALTITUDE SICKNESS

ARE RUSHED DOWN TO BASE CAMP...

...MORE DEAD THAN ALIVE.

Brett: IT STARTS GETTING
REAL SPECTACULAR

WITH THESE 200-FOOT
ICE PINNACLES AND WHATNOT.

THEY'RE AMAZING.

IT'S PRETTY UP THERE.

Narrator:
THE CLIMBERS ARE LESS THAN
1/6 OF THE WAY TO THE SUMMIT,

BUT EVEN AT THIS ALTITUDE,

STAYING ON YOUR FEET DEMANDS
22 CUPS OF WATER PER DAY...

TIRED, COLD,
AND I'M HUNGRY.

...AND ALL SORTS
OF HIGH-ENERGY FOOD.

I'M EATING...

THESE SPACE-AGE,
COMPLEX-CARBOHYDRATE

POLYMER MALTODEXTRIN

WITH SODIUM
AND ARTIFICIAL FLAVORING,

AND IT'S GOD-AWFUL.

[ LAUGHS ]

YEAH, I'M EATING A GEL,
AND YOU'RE SUCKING EGGS.

THAT'S THE DIFFERENCE.

THAT'S THE DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN AUSTRALIA AND AMERICA.

LET'S TRY TO KEEP
INTERNATIONAL DIPLOMACY

GOING HERE, OKAY?

THE REALITIES
OF CLIMBING EVEREST ARE TOUGH,

BUT L.A. FIREMAN BRETT MERRELL

HAS DREAMT OF THIS CHALLENGE
SINCE CHILDHOOD.

Brett: EVER SINCE I WAS
8 YEARS OLD, I ALWAYS WANTED
TO CLIMB THIS MOUNTAIN.

THERE'S JUST
SOMETHING VERY MAGICAL

ABOUT THE HISTORY AND
THE PRESENCE OF THIS MOUNTAIN.

SO IT JUST GOT TO BE
ONE OF THOSE TIMES

WHERE, YOU KNOW,
"OKAY, IT'S TIME TO GO."

SOLD THE HARLEY,
MORTGAGED THE HOUSE.

HERE I AM.

Narrator: WITH JUST
500 FEET MORE TO CLIMB,

BRETT APPROACHES
ADVANCED BASE CAMP,

ALSO KNOWN AS ABC.

ABC'S A BIG STEP,
YOU KNOW?

ABC'S 21,000 FEET, OR...

6,400 METERS.

ABC CLINGS TO THE MOUNTAINSIDE
FOUR MILES UP.

FOR CLIMBERS,
JUST ARRIVING HERE IS A TRIUMPH.

[ SPEAKS INDISTINCTLY ]

BUT THE THRILL IS OVERWHELMED

BY THE STRUGGLE
TO CATCH A BREATH.

[ COUGHING ]

[ COUGHING ]

[ SIGHS ]

[ SIGHS ]

JUST A LITTLE BIT
OUT OF BREATH CONSTANTLY.

IT'S REALLY HARD WORK.

Narrator: THE TEAM RESTS HERE
FOR TWO WEEKS

TO ACCLIMATE TO THE THIN AIR.

NO ONE KNOWS THE AGONY
OF ADVANCED BASE CAMP

BETTER THAN BRETT.

Brett: ABC, MAN -- THE LAND
OF MISERY FOR TWO WEEKS.

OH, BROTHER.

IT'S JUST ENDURE --

ENDURE THE LACK OF OXYGEN,

YOU KNOW, THE LACK OF APPETITE,
NO SLEEP.

Narrator: THIS IS NOT
BRETT'S FIRST SUMMIT ATTEMPT.

ONE YEAR AGO, ALMOST TO THE DAY,

HE WAS FORCED TO QUIT
HERE AT ABC

AFTER EIGHT NIGHTS
WITHOUT SLEEP.

Brett: I JUST STARTED CRYING.

I JUST REMEMBER I WAS SO UPSET.
I WAS SO DISAPPOINTED.

I JUST KNEW THAT
THE TRIP WAS OVER WITH.

I JUST COULDN'T GO ON
ANY LONGER.

IT WAS ONE OF THE BIGGEST
DISAPPOINTMENTS OF MY LIFE.

Narrator:
IN JUST A MATTER OF DAYS,

BRETT'S DREAM
IS IN DANGER AGAIN.

BRETT JUST REALLY CAN'T HANDLE
THIS HARDSHIP, CAN HE?

Narrator: ADVANCED BASE CAMP
IS HOME FOR TWO MONTHS

AND PACKED WITH 71 OTHER
EXPEDITION TEAMS.

EVERYONE STRUGGLES
TO ADJUST TO OXYGEN LEVELS

50% BELOW THOSE AT SEA LEVEL.

ANY EXERTION'S AN EFFORT,
FOR SURE.

I'M REALLY FATIGUED,

ALMOST LIKE
YOU'VE GOT THE FLU RIGHT NOW.

YOU GET QUITE EASIER
OUT OF BREATH THAN AT SEA LEVEL.

EVERYTHING
IS SORT OF SLOW MOTION.

Narrator: THE BODY REACTS
TO THE LACK OF OXYGEN

BY PRODUCING
MORE RED BLOOD CELLS.

AS A RESULT, CLIMBERS ABSORB
MORE OXYGEN PER BREATH.

[ COUGHS ]

BUT AS THEIR BLOOD THICKENS,

THEY ARE TWICE AS LIKELY TO HAVE
A HEART ATTACK OR STROKE.

THE CLIMBERS' GREATEST FEAR
IS KNOWN AS CEREBRAL EDEMA.

AT HIGH ALTITUDE,
THE BRAIN CAN SWELL,

CAUSING DISORIENTATION,
INSANITY,

AND EVEN DEATH.

ON EVEREST, EVEN TERRY,
THE TEAM'S DOCTOR,

CAN DO LITTLE TO HELP.

Terry: OUR RESOURCES
ARE TERRIBLY LIMITED HERE.

IN FACT, I TELL MANY PEOPLE THAT
I'M REALLY NOT A DOCTOR UP HERE.

I'M SOMEONE THAT HAS
A LITTLE MORE KNOWLEDGE,

SOMEONE THAT CAN GIVE YOU
SOME ADVICE.

BUT FOR REAL DEFINITIVE CARE
AND TO BE A DOCTOR,

I GOT TO TAKE YOU TO A HOSPITAL.

Narrator: EXPEDITION LEADER
RUSSELL BRICE

ORGANIZES THIS CAMP CAREFULLY

BECAUSE, AT THIS ALTITUDE,
DANGERS MULTIPLY.

Russell:
LET'S GET SOME BOYS HELPING

TO SHIFT THE BARREL
OVER HERE

AND SOME BOYS
TAKING THIS TENT DOWN.

YOU KNOW,
I ARRIVED HERE YESTERDAY,

AND THINGS
ARE IN TOTAL DISARRAY.

WOW.
THAT WAS GOOD COORDINATION.

I WENT TO BED LAST NIGHT
AND THOUGHT IT ALL OUT --

"HOW AM I GONNA SORT THIS OUT?
HOW AM I GONNA FIX THIS?"

JUST -- JUST WALK.

AND THAT'S WHAT WE'RE DOING
TODAY IS PROBLEM SOLVING.

FROM NOW ON
YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL.

OTHERWISE
YOU BEND EVERYTHING.

Narrator: BUT EVEN RUSSELL,
A 25-YEAR EVEREST VETERAN,

IS HURTING.

Russell: PUT A PLASTIC BAG OVER
YOUR HEAD AND RUN UP THE STAIRS.

THAT'S PROBABLY HOW YOU FEEL.

IT'S NOT A PARTICULARLY
GOOD FEELING.

YOU THINK TWICE
ABOUT GETTING UP TO GO FOR A PEE

BECAUSE IT'S TAKING
SO MUCH EFFORT.

THE SIMPLE FACT IS
IT'S BLOODY TOUGH.

IT'S BLOODY TOUGH.

YOU GOT TO UNDERSTAND --
IN 48 HOURS,

YOU'RE GOING UP
OVER 1,300 METERS.

THAT'S A GOOD PUMP,
YOU KNOW?

Narrator: OF ALL THE TEAM,
NO ONE SUFFERS MORE THAN BRETT.

Brett: 21,000 FEET
DOES CRAZY THINGS TO YOUR BODY.

I WAS WALKING AROUND CAMP
AT 3:30, 4:00 LAST NIGHT,

JUST WANTING TO THROW UP,

JUST TRYING TO DO
EVERYTHING I COULD TO THROW UP.

AND, UH, I DON'T KNOW.
I JUST COULDN'T.

BRETT JUST REALLY CAN'T HANDLE
THIS HARDSHIP, CAN HE?

I'M NOT GONNA WORRY ABOUT IT
'CAUSE THAT JUST CAUSES ANXIETY,

AND I'VE GOT A LOT OF OTHER
COPING MECHANISMS.

IT SURPRISES ME.

HE'S SUCH A STRONG BLOKE,

OR PORTRAYS TO BE
SUCH A STRONG BLOKE,

BUT MAYBE HE'S NOT.

I'M NOT GOING HOME.
I'M STAYING.

[ COUGHING ]

Narrator: CHRONIC SLEEPLESSNESS,
HEADACHES, VOMITING,

AND DIZZINESS ARE SYMPTOMS
OF ALTITUDE SICKNESS.

IT'S SO RAMPANT AT ABC,

TEAM DOCTOR TERRY IS NOW
HELPING TEAMS WHO CAME HERE

WITH NO PHYSICIANS AT ALL.

Man: [ COUGHING ]

Terry: WHAT'S THE BIGGEST
PROBLEM -- HEADACHE?

HEADACHE, VOMIT.

Man: NO, NO.
ONLY ASLEEP IN THE TENT.

Terry:
ESSENTIALLY, IT LOOKS LIKE

HE JUST HAS VERY BAD,
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS.

HE'S GOT A VERY BAD HEADACHE.

HE'S GOT VERY BAD NAUSEA,
DECREASED APPETITE.

HOWEVER, HIS OXYGEN SATURATION
IS ACTUALLY PRETTY GOOD.

Narrator:
A CLIMBER'S SATURATION LEVEL

SHOWS HOW MUCH OXYGEN
HIS LUNGS CAN ABSORB

FROM THE THIN MOUNTAIN AIR.

Terry:
OUR OXYGEN SATURATIONS HERE

AFTER ONLY ABOUT A NIGHT OR TWO
AT 21,000 FEET --

YOU'RE LOOKING, ON AVERAGE,
PROBABLY ABOUT 60%.

AND IF I WAS IN
THE EMERGENCY DEPARTMENT

AND SOMEONE WALKED IN

AND THEIR OXYGEN SATURATION
WAS LESS THAN 90%,

I'D SERIOUSLY CONSIDER
HOSPITALIZING THEM.

Narrator: BUT HERE,
THERE ARE NO HOSPITALS.

AND NO ONE IS IMMUNE.

IN RUSSELL'S CAMP,

EVEREST CAMERAMAN SIMON WAGEN
HAS COLLAPSED.

Simon:
INTENSE, INTENSE PAIN.

THANK YOU.

Russell:
IT LOOKS PRETTY SERIOUS.

MAYBE APPENDIX
OR SOME INTERNAL RUPTURE.

SIMON JUST SAID
HE HAD A PAIN IN HIS GUT

AND THAT IT JUST GOT WORSE
VERY RAPIDLY,

SO, IN THE COURSE OF 10 MINUTES,

HE WAS LYING ON HIS SIDE,
BASICALLY,

IN PRETTY SERIOUS PAIN.

Narrator: HELICOPTER EVACUATION
IS IMPOSSIBLE,

BUT SIMON MUST GET DOWN
THE MOUNTAIN IMMEDIATELY.

HE COULD GET BASICALLY
A DISSEMINATED INFECTION,

AND HIS BLOOD PRESSURE
COULD DROP

AND HE COULD DIE FROM IT,
UNFORTUNATELY.

Narrator: SIMON MUST BE CARRIED
BACK DOWN TO BASE CAMP,

14 MILES BELOW.

IF HIS CONDITION
DOESN'T IMPROVE,

HE'LL BE DRIVEN 10 HOURS
TO THE NEAREST AIRSTRIP.

YOU TALK TO KRISHNA AND TATIPANI

TO KEEP ONE PLACE ON THAT
HELICOPTER TO GO TO KATHMANDU.

[ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ]

Tim: SIMON, YOU GET BETTER,
GET YOUR BUTT BACK UP HERE, HUH?

Narrator: THE CLIMBERS
NOW SEE FOR THEMSELVES,

IN THE BATTLE FOR THE SUMMIT,
EVEREST TAKES NO PRISONERS.

Tim:
DEFINITELY A REALITY CHECK.

I THINK WE ALL KNOW
HOW THIS TRIP STARTED

AND NOW WE'RE AT ABC.

I DON'T KNOW
IF THAT'S THE PROLOGUE

TO WHAT'S GONNA HAPPEN UP TOP.

Narrator: DAY 20,
EVEREST BASE CAMP.

CAMERAMAN SIMON WAGEN
IS RECOVERING.

THE MOVE TO LOWER ALTITUDE
HAS EASED THE PAIN IN HIS GUT.

HIGH ABOVE AT ABC,
EVERYONE'S RELIEVED.

MORNING.

MORNING.

WHAT A BEAUTIFUL MORNING.

TIME FOR EGGS.

WELL, HERE I AM.

ABC -- 21,000 FEET.

AAH!

GET OUT, GET OUT!

Narrator:
BACK HOME IN HOLLYWOOD,

TIM SELLS CUSTOM HARLEYS
TO THE RICH AND FAMOUS.

WELL, YOU'RE INSIDE MY TENT
RIGHT NOW --

MY HOME AWAY FROM HOME.

Narrator: HERE,
HIS RIDE IS LESS GLAMOROUS.

THAT'S THE OLD GIRLFRIEND.

THIS IS THE NEW GIRLFRIEND.
[ LAUGHS ]

Narrator: WHILE TIM'S SPIRIT
FITS THE CLIMBER'S PROFILE,

HIS BODY SHAPE DOESN'T.

UNLIKE THE SHORT
AND WIRY SHERPAS,

TIM STANDS 6'5"
AND IS BUILT LIKE A BEAR.

Russell: HE'S A BIG BOY.

HE SHOULD BE PLAYING RUGBY,
NOT TRYING TO CLIMB MOUNTAINS.

LET'S SEE HOW HE GOES.

THAT'S A BIG BULK OF FRAME
TO PUT UP AND DOWN.

Narrator: AND SINCE
A NEAR-FATAL BIKE CRASH,

TIM'S CARRYING
SOME EXTRA HEAVY METAL.

WE GOT METAL PLATE, 10 SCREWS,

METAL PLATE, 10 SCREWS,

LEFT KNEE,
PLATE FROM HERE TO HERE,

LEFT FOOT, 10 SCREWS.

LOWER BACK, STEEL CAGE.

WHEN YOU LOOK AT THE X-RAYS,

MY BACK LOOKS LIKE
A METAL WASTEPAPER BASKET.

MY DOCTOR THINKS
I SHOULD TAKE UP GOLF.

[ LAUGHS ]

Narrator: BUT IN THE GAME
TIM HAS CHOSEN...

THE PENALTIES ARE FATAL.

TODAY THE TEAM ATTEMPTS

THEIR FIRST CLIMB
TO THE UPPER SLOPES --

A PRACTICE RUN
TO THE FIRST HIGH CAMP AND BACK

TO CONDITION THEIR BODIES
FOR THE EVEREST SUMMIT.

RUSSELL'S EXPEDITION TACKLES
EVEREST FROM THE NORTH ROUTE,

PASSING FOUR HIGH CAMPS

ALONG THE NORTHEAST RIDGE
TO THE SUMMIT.

AT 23,000 FEET,
CAMP 1 -- NORTH COL --

SITS AT THE MIDPOINT OF A NARROW
BRIDGE OF ROCK AND ICE

THAT JOINS EVEREST TO ITS
NEAREST NEIGHBORING MOUNTAIN.

BUT TO GET THERE,

THE CLIMBERS MUST SCALE
THIS 1,000-FOOT ICE CLIFF.

I THINK I'VE BEEN SITTING AROUND
FOR TOO MANY DAYS.

BREATHING KIND OF HEAVY.

YOU COMING?

NORTH COL, PAL.

Narrator:
THE TREK TO THE NORTH COL

IS A MAJOR LEAP IN ACCLIMATION.

BUT JUST A HALF A MILE
OUT OF CAMP,

TIM STRUGGLES WITH THE EXTRA
WEIGHT ON HIS DAMAGED SPINE.

JUST TAKE YOUR TIME, PAL.

DAMN STEEL CAGE.

THE CLIMBERS
MOVE STEADILY UPWARD.

[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]

OHH.

EH, BACK'S TIGHTENING UP ON ME.

TIM'S BACK THERE.

Narrator: BUT TIM HAS COMPLETELY
FALLEN BEHIND.

THIS IS CRAMPON POINT...

...THE LAST SOLID GROUND
ON THE CLIMB TO THE NORTH COL.

Brett: CRAMPONS ARE, OF COURSE,
FOR THE SNOW AND THE ICE.

THIS IS A 12-POINT CRAMPON.

THEY GRAB ON TO THE ICE,

GIVE YOU TRACTION,
GIVE YOU STABILITY.

I ONLY BROUGHT ONE.
YOU'LL HAVE TO HOP UP.

Narrator: MARK'S CRAMPONS
ARE ACCESSORIZED ATTACHMENTS.

Mark: JEEZ, I WISH
I COULD DO THAT, MATE.

THE TOP'S LOOKING
PRETTY MENACING.

SHOULD BE A BRUTALLY COLD DAY
UP THERE.

LONG WAY TO GO.

IT'S JUST HUGE.

DAUNTING.

Narrator:
JUST CROSSING THE FLAT GLACIER

TO THE BASE OF THE CLIFFS
IS TOUGH.

Max: DEFINITELY NOT MY DAY.

LEGS ARE FEELING VERY HEAVY.

KEEP GOING.

THAT'S ALL THERE IS TO IT,
I GUESS.

Narrator: MINUTE BY MINUTE,

THE ALTITUDE
SUCKS AIR FROM THEIR LUNGS

AND PARCHES THE LININGS
OF THE NOSE AND THROAT.

TIM HAS LOST SIGHT OF THE TEAM
AND CAN BARELY WALK.

NO ONE SEEMS TO NOTICE
TIM'S ABSENCE

AS THE TEAM REACHES
THE BASE OF THE ICE CLIFFS.

NO ONE SAID
IT WAS GOING TO BE EASY.

Narrator: THE CLIMBERS
NOW MAKE A HEART-POUNDING,

LUNG-WRENCHING ASCENT
UP 1,000 FEET OF ICE,

BROKEN ONLY
BY BOTTOMLESS CREVASSES.

AT 23,000 FEET,

THE NORTH COL
IS AN AGONIZING REMINDER

OF HOW FAR
THEY STILL HAVE TO GO.

ADIOS.

Narrator: AS THE TEAM TACKLES
THE ICE CLIFFS,

TIM LIMPS INTO CRAMPON POINT
A FULL HOUR BEHIND.

HEAD GUIDE BILL
CHECKS UP ON HIM.

TIM -- TIM, FROM BILL.

YEAH, COPY THAT.

Tim:
MY BACK AIN'T GONNA MAKE IT.

IT'S GOT THAT STEEL CAGE
IN THERE.

PUT TOO MUCH WEIGHT ON IT,

ALL THAT METAL IN THERE
JUST KIND OF TENSES UP

AND GIVES ME A LOT OF PAIN.

Narrator:
COORDINATING FROM ABC,

RUSSELL GETS A REPORT
THAT TIM'S STRUGGLING.

IT'S UP TO RUSSELL
TO DECIDE WHO GOES TO THE SUMMIT

AND WHO GOES HOME.

HE SEEMS TO BE HAVING SOME PAIN.
BACK PAIN OR SOMETHING.

YOU KNOW, HE'S HAD SO MANY
MOTORBIKE ACCIDENTS,

AND HE'S GOT METAL ALL OVER HIM
AND THINGS LIKE THAT,

AND HE'S A BIG BOY,

SO A LOT OF ENERGY TO PUSH THAT
AMOUNT OF BULK UP AND DOWN.

I DON'T SEE HIM.

I THINK HE TURNED BACK.

Narrator: TIM NOW HAS NO CHANCE
OF CATCHING UP.

TIM -- TIM, FROM BILL.

YEAH, TIM,
I THINK PROBABLY TODAY

WE THINK IT'D BE BEST IF YOU
CAME TO THE BASE OF THE LINE

AND CALL IT A DAY.

IF YOU CAN
STAY OFF THE LINES,

COME OVER, TAKE A BREAK,

THEN MAYBE TURN AROUND
AND GO BACK.

JUST GIVE US A CALL,
WHAT YOU DECIDE TO DO.

I'LL CALL YOU WHEN I GET
TO THE BOTTOM OF THE ROPE.

Yeah, copy that.

WE'VE DECIDED WITH TIM
THAT IT'S PROBABLY JUST BEST

THAT HE COMES TO CRAMPON POINT,
PUTS THE CRAMPONS ON,

COMES UP, TAGS THE ROPE,

AND THAT'S KIND OF
HIS SUMMIT FOR THE DAY.

OH, IT'S HORRIBLE.
IT'S HORRIBLE.

IT'S LIKE
THE REST OF THE REINDEER

WON'T LET ME PLAY
IN THEIR GAMES.

Narrator: IF TIM CAN'T MAKE IT
TO THE NORTH COL,

RUSSELL WILL NOT ALLOW HIM TO
MAKE AN ATTEMPT ON THE SUMMIT.

Tim: EVERYTHING'S TOUGH
UP AT THIS ALTITUDE,

BUT I'M JUST SO EXHAUSTED.

I'M JUST WALKING,
AND MY EYES ARE CLOSING.

Narrator:
TIM FINALLY HITS THE WALL

AND FALLS ASLEEP.

Russell: HE'S THE ONE I'M MOST
CONCERNED ABOUT AT THE MOMENT.

YOU CAN'T JUST GO HALFWAY UP
AND GO TO SLEEP.

YOU KNOW, YOU'VE GOT TO BE
DETERMINED TO GO UP AND DOWN,

SO, HE'S GONNA HAVE
A FEW ISSUES TO DEAL WITH

IN THE NEXT FEW WEEKS,
FEW DAYS, FEW HOURS.

GOT TO WORK HARD.
NOTHING COMES FOR FREE HERE.

NOW THE WORK STARTS.

Narrator: AT 29,028 FEET,

THE SUMMIT OF EVEREST
IS LITERALLY BREATHTAKING.

THE AIR CONTAINS
JUST 30% OF THE OXYGEN

THAT EXISTS AT SEA LEVEL.

BY PUSHING THEMSELVES
TO THE NORTH COL,

THE CLIMBERS
ARE TEACHING THEIR BODIES

TO ADAPT TO THE LACK OF OXYGEN.

THEY'RE MORPHING THEMSELVES
INTO EVEREST SUPERMEN --

CAPABLE OF CLIMBING THE MOUNTAIN
ON A FRACTION OF NORMAL OXYGEN.

BUT WHILE THE REST OF THE
CLIMBERS RACK UP THE TRAINING,

TIM PACKS IN THE Z's.

[ GROANS ]

COWBOY: IT'S THE HIGHEST
I'VE EVER BEEN ON A LADDER.

THAT'S FOR SURE.

I DON'T KNOW WHAT WE ARE,

BUT WE MUST BE
6,800 OR SOMETHING.

Narrator: AT 22,300 FEET,

OXYGEN LEVELS HOVER AROUND 40%
OF THOSE AT SEA LEVEL.

[ SIGHS ]

[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]

[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]

[ BREATHING HEAVILY ]

I'M TIRED.

WHEN I STARTED OFF TODAY,

I DIDN'T THINK
I HAD THE LEGS TO GET HERE.

AND I SAID TO MYSELF,

"MAX, PUSH YOURSELF
AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE

SO THAT YOUR BODY
CAN ACCLIMATIZE."

IT LOOKS AS THOUGH I FOUND
SOME LEGS ALONG THE WAY,

'CAUSE I'M ALMOST THERE.

Narrator: AND SO IS THE MAN
WITH CARBON LEGS -- MARK INGLIS.

HOORAY, MARK!HOORAY, MARK!

WELL DONE, MATE.

THE TEAM IS NOW HIGHER

THAN ANY MOUNTAIN
OUTSIDE THE HIMALAYAS.

AND BRETT HAS MADE IT, AS WELL.

HEY, GUYS.

I TELL YOU WHAT.

IF THIS WAS
ANY KIND OF AN OUTFIT,

THEY'D PUT AN ELEVATOR IN
OR SIX CAMPS.

IT'S THE HIGHEST
HE'S EVER CLIMBED.

Brett: YEAH, IT'S BASICALLY
THE HIGH POINT OF MY LAST TRIP

BEFORE I BUGGED OUT.

IT FEELS GOOD.
WHAT CAN YOU SAY?

ON THE HISTORIC NORTH COL,
23,000 FEET.

IT'S A STEPPING-STONE

TO THE REST OF THE RIDGE
BEHIND ME.

EVERYBODY MADE IT TODAY
EXCEPT FOR ONE.

Narrator:
1,000 FEET BELOW NORTH COL,

TIM RADIOS RUSSELL --
HE'S THROWN IN THE TOWEL.

TIM: Say, Russ,
kind of ran out of steam.

Over.

OKAY.
IT'S YOUR DECISION.

THAT WAS TIM.

TIM IS ONE OF THESE PEOPLE
WE'LL KNOW SOONER THAN LATER

WHETHER HE'S GOING TO BE ABLE
TO GO UP THE HILL OR NOT.

THAT'S WHAT YOU GET FOR RIDING
MOTORCYCLES TOO FAST, I GUESS.

WHAT ARE YOU GONNA DO?

THIS IS THE BODY
THAT I'M DEALT WITH, YOU KNOW?

SO, DO IT AGAIN TOMORROW.

FAT LADY DIDN'T SING YET.

Narrator: AFTER TIM'S FAILURE
TO PROVE HIMSELF,

RUSSELL LAYS IT ON THE LINE.

IF YOU CAN'T GO UP AND DOWN
TO NORTH COL,

THEN YOU HAVE NO RIGHT
TO BE ON MY EXPEDITION.

ALL OF RUSSELL'S OTHER CLIMBERS
HAVE MADE IT TO THE NORTH COL,

AN EXCEPTIONAL ACHIEVEMENT.

THE SCALE OF IT
IS PRETTY SPECTACULAR --

JUST HOW BIG IT ALL IS.

Narrator: EVEN HERE,

THE TEAM IS STILL
ONLY HALFWAY TO THE SUMMIT.

NORTH COL IS AS HIGH
AS THE CLIMBERS CAN GO

AT THIS STAGE OF ACCLIMATION.

IF THEY DON'T DESCEND
BACK TO ABC,

THEY RUN THE RISK
OF SEVERE ALTITUDE SICKNESS.

AS THEY INCH DOWN
THE DANGEROUS ICE,

THE TEAM STUMBLES INTO A CRISIS
AT 23,000 FEET.

[ SPEAKING NATIVE LANGUAGE ]

Russell:
I JUST HEARD TERRY ON THE RADIO.

HE'S HELPING
ONE OF THE INDIAN MEMBERS.

HE SEEMS TO BE SUFFERING
FROM PULMONARY EDEMA.

YEAH, YOUR DOCTOR IS THERE.

HE'S CHECKING HIM OUT.
I DON'T KNOW, ACTUALLY.

TERRY'S UP THERE.
YOU CAN ALMOST SEE THE TOP.

Narrator:
TERRY HAS RUSHED TO THE AID

OF A CLIMBER
FROM THE INDIAN TEAM.

Terry: NO, NOT UP.

Man: 6 INCHES.

[ INDISTINCT TALKING ]

WHAT WE'RE DOING
IS BUILDING A STRETCHER,

AND WE'RE GONNA GET HIM DOWN
THE HILL A.S.A.P., BASICALLY.

EXTREMELY SERIOUS.
HE CAN DIE VERY RAPIDLY.

HE WENT FROM BASICALLY STANDING

TO FULLY CRUMPED OVER TO
UNCONSCIOUS IN ABOUT 15 MINUTES.

BREATHE, BREATHE.

YEAH, BREATHE.

SPIT IT OUT. GOOD.

SPIT IT OUT -- SPIT.

Narrator:
TERRY HAS NO E.R. UNIT HERE,

AND THE CLIMBER
IS DYING IN HIS ARMS.

SPIT!

Terry: WHEN YOU SEE SOMEONE
THAT'S THAT ADVANCED,

THE FIRST THING IN YOUR MIND IS,
"WOW -- THIS IS A DEAD MAN."

Narrator: AT 23,000 FEET,

EVEREST EXPEDITION DOCTOR
TERRY O'CONNOR

HAS WALKED
INTO HIS OWN NIGHTMARE.

Terry: HIS ODDS, HIS CHANCES
ARE ACTUALLY PRETTY SLIM.

HE'S CERTAINLY IN AN ENVIRONMENT

WHERE IT'S VERY DIFFICULT
FOR YOUR BODY TO SURVIVE

IN THE FIRST PLACE.

Narrator: A CLIMBER
FROM ANOTHER EXPEDITION

IS HIT BY CEREBRAL EDEMA,

A POTENTIALLY FATAL SWELLING
OF THE BRAIN.

WELL, IT'S NOT
THAT GREAT, GUYS.

I LITERALLY TOOK
THE KNUCKLES OF MY HAND,

AND I PUT ALL MY WEIGHT
INTO HIS STERNUM.

AND HE DIDN'T EVEN GROAN,
DIDN'T EVEN RESPOND.

I MEAN, HE WAS THAT FAR GONE.

BREATHE.

Narrator:
ALL TERRY HAS TO SAVE THE MAN

IS A SYRINGE FULL OF STEROIDS
TO SLOW THE BRAIN SWELLING.

RUSSELL'S GUIDE, SHAUN,
TAKES CHARGE OF THE RESCUE.

POSITION OF HIS ARMS --

STRAIGHTEN HIM OUT
A LITTLE BIT, AS WELL.

WHAT WE'RE TRYING TO DO
IS MAKE A BASKET OF ROPE

THAT HE'LL SIT IN
RATHER THAN BE CRUSHED INTO.

Narrator: THE MAN WILL DIE

UNLESS HE'S TAKEN
DOWN THE MOUNTAIN

AND PUT ON PRESSURIZED OXYGEN.

INDIAN MEMBERS --
ANY OTHER CLOSED-CELL FOAM,

MATTRESS, ANYTHING, OKAY --
MORE MAT.

ANYBODY WHO'S SITTING AROUND
WATCHING,

DO YOU HAVE ANY MATS?

I GOT A MAT -- CARRY MAT.

YEAH, RUSS, GO AHEAD.

RUSSELL:
Tell me when you're leaving.

WE'RE ABOUT 5 FROM LEAVING,
BUT I'LL GIVE YOU A CALL.

MAKE A NECK ROLL.

TO GO AROUND HIS NECK LIKE THIS.

TERRY'S EXTREMELY GOOD
AT WHAT HE DOES.

WE'RE VERY FORTUNATE
TO HAVE HIM ON OUR TEAM.

POSITION'S OKAY.

WE'LL JUST CHECK IT EVERY ONCE
IN A WHILE ON THE WAY DOWN.

IT'S THE BEST WE CAN DO.
IT'S NOT GONNA GET ANY
BETTER THAN THAT.

YEAH, WE'RE LEAVING NOW.

LET'S ROLL.
Shaun: BE CAREFUL.

YOU NEED TO BE CLIPPED IN,
EVERY PERSON.

Man: PULL, PULL, PULL, PULL.
SLOWLY, SLOWLY.

THERE'S TOO MANY FRICKING PEOPLE
ON THE ROPE.

JUST WATCH YOURSELVES.
WATCH YOURSELVES.

YOU CAN OVERLOAD THE ANCHORS.

WE'VE GOT 2, 4, 6, 8 PEOPLE
PLUS THE VICTIM GOING DOWN,

AND IF THEY ALL CLIP IN
AND PULL ON,

IT'S A LOT OF WEIGHT
ON AN ANCHOR.

WE JUST NEED TO BE
A LITTLE BIT SMARTER,

OR YOU END UP
WITH ANOTHER DOZEN VICTIMS.

THE SIRDAR WAS JUST HERE AND...

IF HE'S GOT CEREBRAL EDEMA,
HE CAN DIE QUITE QUICKLY,

SO IT'S JUST FORTUNATE THAT
WE HAPPENED TO BE THERE.

WE'LL FIND OXYGEN SOMEWHERE.

THE INDIAN SHERPAS WILL RUN
BACK UP THERE PRETTY QUICK.

Narrator: OVER 13 YEARS,

RUSSELL HAS MOUNTED
15 RESCUE ATTEMPTS.

BUT ON EVEREST,

EFFORTS LIKE THESE
RARELY SUCCEED.

IT TAKES 40 MINUTES
FOR THE OXYGEN TO ARRIVE,

AND IT MAY BE TOO LATE.

[ GRUNTING ]

JUST LET HIM
QUIET DOWN HERE FOR A SEC

BEFORE I PUT A MASK ON.

YOU OKAY? YOU OKAY?

COME ON.
CALM DOWN, CALM DOWN.

OKAY, GOOD BREATH.
GOOD BREATH.

GUYS, GET YOURSELF SET UP.
LET'S GET GOING.

AFTER TWO HOURS,

THE TEAM IS ONLY HALFWAY DOWN
THE CLIFFS

AND STILL 1,500 VERTICAL FEET
ABOVE ADVANCED BASE CAMP.

KEEP GOING -- THIS IS NOT
A GOOD PLACE TO STOP.

IN THE NEXT 10 SECONDS WOULD BE
[BLEEP] GREAT.

HELPING ANYONE DOWN A MOUNTAIN

CAN BE THE LAST
NICE THING YOU DO.

HIGH-ALTITUDE RESCUES
PUT EVERYONE AT RISK.

YEAH, YEAH.
YEAH, YEAH.

OKAY, OKAY, OKAY.

OKAY, OKAY.

KEEP GOING, KEEP GOING.

WE NEED TO COME DOWN THAT SIDE!

[ INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS ]

Terry: THE PRIMARY INSULT
WITH CEREBRAL EDEMA

IS LACK OF OXYGEN --

SAME THING THAT'S CAUSING ME
TO BE SHORT OF BREATH RIGHT NOW

AFTER HAULING HIM DOWN.

SO, WE GAVE HIM DEXAMETHASONE
TO DECREASE THE SWELLING

AND OXYGEN TO STOP THE PROCESS,

AND HE'S STILL
A LITTLE OUT OF IT.

HE'S NOT A WELL MAN.

Narrator: IT'S TAKEN
THE RESCUE TEAM THREE HOURS

TO REACH ADVANCED BASE CAMP,

NORMALLY A 45-MINUTE DESCENT.

Man: MORE THIS WAY.
GOOD ONE, RUSS -- EXACTLY.

AT 21,000 FEET, THE MAN REMAINS
IN CRITICAL CONDITION.

Terry: YOU CAN PROBABLY
GET THIS COLLAR OFF NOW.

I WISH I HAD ULTRASOUND HERE.

[ COUGHING ]

YOU CAN SEE HE'S GOT A LITTLE
BIT OF A WHEEZE AND A CRACKLE.

HE HAS SOME PULMONARY EDEMA,
TOO, OKAY?

[ MONITOR BEEPING ]

[ RETCHING ]

WHERE'S THE BOWL?

WE'RE GONNA KEEP REASSESSING
HIS LEVEL OF ALERTNESS.

Russell: CLIMBING EVEREST IS
A VERY, VERY DANGEROUS GAME.

IT'S DANGEROUS FOR US,
IT'S DANGEROUS FOR THE SHERPAS,

AND IT'S DANGEROUS
FOR OTHER PEOPLE.

YOU'RE GONNA SEE MUCH,
MUCH MORE OF THIS HAPPEN

BEFORE WE'RE FINISHED
THIS YEAR --

WITH US OR OTHER TEAMS.

IT'S A PRETTY STUPID GAME
TO BE PLAYING.

Narrator: NEXT TIME...

L.A. FIREMAN BRETT MERRELL
STRUGGLES FOR BREATH

AND FIGHTS FOR HIS DREAM.

THIS IS KICKING MY BUTT.

Narrator:
ASTHMATIC CLIMBER MOGENS JENSEN

PROVES HE'S THE STRONGEST
AND FASTEST.

HEY, BOYS.

RIGHT NOW, I AM LOOKING
AT THE SUMMIT,

AND, BOY, IT'S JUST HUGE
AND INTIMIDATING.

Narrator:
DOUBLE AMPUTEE MARK INGLIS

HAS A MECHANICAL BREAKDOWN
ON A SHEET OF ICE...

BLOODY CLIENT'S
BROKEN HIS LEG.

[ COUGHING ]

...AND TIM MEDVETZ,
THE BIKER FROM L.A.,

FALLS BEHIND THE SUMMIT TEAM
AND RUSSELL'S PATIENCE.

HE'S NOT IN THE TEAM.

BAM!