Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown (2013–2018): Season 6, Episode 2 - Marseille, France - full transcript
Bourdain and travel companion chef Eric Ripert (Le Bernardin) visit France's oldest city to experience its stew of cultures and cuisines and eat as much Corsican cheeses as they can handle.
I need A French coach.
♪ I took a walk through
this beautiful world ♪
♪ Felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪
♪ Found something good
in this beautiful world ♪
♪ I felt the rain getting colder ♪
♪ Sha la la la la ♪
♪ Sha la la la la la ♪
♪ Sha la la la la ♪
♪ Sha la la la la la la ♪ ♪
If you've been to France,
chances are you haven't
been here.
France's second largest
city, the oldest city in France.
It sits right by the Mediterranean.
The food is famously good.
Yet, it's a victim of bad
reputation, bad history.
Marseille.
As it turns out, exactly
the kind of place I like.
But this is a buddy picture, isn't it?
Eric Ripert is the chef of the
three-star La Bernadin in - New York.
The Chevalier of France.
I think that means he's some
kind of knight or something.
And my friend.
This causes him some problems.
He, I like to remind him,
has a reputation to protect.
I do not.
- Welcome to Marseille.
- Yeah.
You've never been here?
Never.
How is this even possible?
You grew up how far from here?
Like, 50 miles. 100 miles.
You grew up 100 miles from here?
What prevented you from
coming to this clearly beautiful city?
Because it's clearly beautiful.
It's a fantastic city.
I mean, it's beautiful. I agree with you.
But it has the reputation
of being a dangerous city.
You live in New York.
I should point out that
every single Frenchmen,
when I said, you know,
I'm shooting in France.
And they say, oh really,
where? And I say, Marseille.
Their face drops immediately, like, oh.
Why's that? Because they think it's ugly?
Do you know what they say?
They say this is not France.
With a "Z" like that?
This is not France.
Well, I'm looking forward to the week.
Yeah.
This is a low-impact show.
What is a low-impact show?
It means I'm not, you
know, paddling upriver.
It means I get a flush
toilet, eating well constantly.
You like luxury.
I do, look, I do.
I like a fluffy hotel towel.
I like a bidet.
Look, I like warm jets of
water squirting up my ass.
I mean, who doesn't?
I could retire here.
I could retire here, too.
You see, that's sort of the
measure of a place - for me is like,
If you start thinking thoughts like that.
Like, that must be nice. I could live here.
Just me and my watercolors, you know?
Puttering.
When you retire, are you going to putter?
What's putter?
Dicking around.
Basically, you wake up
and maybe you paint a little.
I could paint.
You know, well, OK. Do
you how to make a sweater.
Who do you think I am like? Who am I?
I would like to go fishing.
You know, I've never
catch anything in my life.
Do you actually fish?
Do you know how to fish?
Do you ever fish?
I don't know how to fish.
I'll show you how.
All you need is a car battery
and a couple of cables.
Trust me, you get all the fish you want.
Well, that's...
- They come right up.
- We have to be gentle.
There's other ways. How do
you say dynamite - in French?
- Dynamite.
- Dynamite.
See, I do speak French.
You can tell. You know it's coming, right?
You can sense it.
Oh, no. Another fishing scene.
This is our vessel here on the right.
Eric is one of only a
handful of old-style fishermen
who work the sea the old-fashioned way.
Do you see yourself fishing?
- No.
- It's stressful to me.
Right. I always think
I'm going to catch, like,
my testicles or my ear with the hook.
You know, I have a fear of fish hooks.
You guys catching dente?
Yes. He said it's the best
fish of the Mediterranean.
I have no idea what he's talking about.
Well, hopefully, we'll see.
Well, hopefully, we'll taste it.
Well, he's supposed to
deliver it to Le Petit Nice.
Yeah, that's right.
Eric works exclusively for this man,
Gerald Passedat.
The extremely demanding
chef/owner of Le Petit Nice.
Marseille's only three
Michelin-star restaurant.
I'm ready for my fisherman, actually.
It won't be long.
It depends on what the
Mediterranean Sea will
offer to us.
So it's a long line, Tony.
How long is the line?
Well, he say he has about, today 300 hooks.
So he basically lays it out at night?
- Yeah.
- Comes back and pick it up.
In Marseille is only five guys,
five fishermen will rock it like him.
You know he has 300 hooks.
See he's right in time.
This must be the 12th fishing scene.
No, I must have done 20
fishing scenes in my life.
And I think I had one
good day out of all of them.
Other than that, it's been
one humiliating goat rodeo
after another.
Ordinarily, our typical fishing
scene actually would be,
it would be rougher than this.
So we'd be pitching back and forth.
And I'd be hanging on to the contents
of my stomach,
only by realizing that
they feel even sicker
because they have to
look through the view finder.
So they're like...
so it's basically you're playing this
sort of race against time - kind of a game.
It's like who's going to puke first.
- -Yeah. -But it's always the camera
- dudes though.
- Is it?
- No. Generally, it's our
producer.
He said bad days, I had
some bad days but this one...
- This is the worst.
- This is the worst.
Well, there it is.
Another extraordinarily
successful fishing scene - in the can.
Time to reap the rewards
awaiting us back on dry land.
You'll tell me if there's any
oiled up amazons behind me.
- Behind you?
- They're frolicking naked.
Yes. Right now they're
kind of like mature Amazons.
It will happen.
Here's the chef.
- Anthony Bourdain.
- Nice to meet you.
Nice to meet you. An honor, sir.
Would you mind to have the bouillabaisse?
Is it a good idea? Or...
No, no, no. It's a very good idea.
There's reinvented, deconstructed
and then usually there's the thing, itself.
Passedat's take on bouillabaisse,
without a doubt Marseille's
most famous dish
is spread out over four courses.
First, shellfish carpaccio
of raw mussels and clams.
This is super, huh?
They slice the muscles raw.
That's crazy. Wow.
I decided to make this
bouillabaisse, like a version
when I was a child.
On those rocks, when I was with
my knife, opening the mussels,
eating the mussels.
In my cuisine, there's no cream, no butter.
It's not traditional at all.
It's just based on the fish.
This is my way of thinking,
my cuisine here. For myself.
Slipper lobster, weaver,
angler, and red gurnard
lightly seared then a touch in the oven.
Oh, whoa.
This is just incredibly beautiful.
It's so delicate and at the same time
flavorful and powerful.
This is insanely good.
A broth so intense it requires
over ten kilos of rock crabs
and various bony tasty little fishes,
to make just one kilo of
brown, gloriously brown,
magical liquid.
Dorade and dentelle,
steamed over seaweed water,
saffron potatoes, and then
finally comes that magical
brown broth.
- Oh.
- Wow.
Ahh.
That's a good one, huh?
Oh, man.
This is unbelievable.
The entire fish you're eating. Yeah.
And just when my brain threatens
to short circuit - with pleasure.
Descending as if from heaven itself.
Oh, cheese.
Oh, god, the cheese.
I got to tell you, I don't care
how about naked breasts
are on that beach right now,
because that's much more - exciting.
All right. Look at it. It's beautiful.
- Food taste good?
- Yes.
Oh, look at that. Oh, man.
Oh, I love the cheese.
Cheese like this. That is just incredible.
Oh, yes.
That is exceptional.
Life is good.
Life is good.
Marseille was once the hub.
The rough and tumble principle
Port for France's colony - such as
Tunisia, Morocco, and Algeria.
As a result the sights and
smells of Africa permeate
the city.
There's been attempts to
disuade me from Marseille,
you don't want to go
there, and yet I come here.
Correct me if I'm wrong,
it is a beautiful city.
It smells good. You smell the different
pastries.
The Tajin, we have leabess.
And it's an extraordinary looking city
and the people are
really interesting looking.
I must say, you are in
the center of the world
because the world is in Marseille.
We are connected to the Mediterranean sea.
So it's really different
from the north of France.
I feel closer to a guy from Oracle,
than a guy from maybe
Germany or... it's different.
Cedric Fabre is a
Marseille crime writer who
spent decades
deciphering the dense layers
of crime and corruption,
pasties, and sunshine.
It's a perfect town for writers of Mark.
Plenty of atmospherics and lurid history.
Why do you think it's such a fertile ground
to set a crime novel?
For me it's more interesting because
you write about the - place you live in.
I walk in the street, I
have an idea, et cetera.
I couldn't write about past
things like James Leroy does.
Because I have to know the
real part of the city, the people.
Here it's a really interesting
stew of characters.
In Marseille, there is a very poor area
and a very rich area.
The difference between these two areas
is the worst in France.
So that makes an interesting
city because when we write
crime novel,
we write both the differences
between the poor people, the - rich people,
Et cetera, so that's interesting.
Le Femina is an Algerian restaurant
with some of the better cous cous in town.
And since it's a very filling dish
and I only got one crack at it,
I go for the royale. What else?
Vegetables, chickpeas,
merguez sausage, chicken,
chunks of lamb, and meatballs.
What people say,
is that everybody sees themselves
as Marseillaise first and French second,
regardless of your
background. Is that true?
Because in Marseille we
love that city. It's our city.
And at the same time,
we hate a lot of aspects.
We have both love and hate.
It's part of a complex, I think.
Marseille has always
made bad choices in politics.
When France lost its colonies,
it was an economic disaster for
Marseille.
I'm thinking about one of
your cities in the states, Detroit.
It was a huge city. It was very important.
And a beautiful... -And what happened?
Yeah, we abandoned
Detroit. We abandoned it.
It became too black for America to...
Maybe France is abandoning Marseille.
Sometimes people say, in
Marseille, people, - they are racist.
I would say in Marseille,
people, they are connected
with other people.
Let's hope Marseille people figure that out
because I think it's amazing here.
If you ask real Marseillease these day,
what's the iconic dish?
The one thing you most closely
associate with home, the answer
might surprise you.
Pizza.
Marseille, it turns out,
is the pizza truck capital
of France.
So this could be a whole
new beginning for you, Eric.
Yes.
I always said, you should have a truck.
Yeah. I'll do it with you.
- Do you have pizza experience?
- Never did a pizza in my life.
Does he know this.
No, he doesn't know. I'm going to tell him.
Okay, let's go.
Our employer for this episode
of the real world - geriatric edition
Is Jean-Denis Martinez.
His yellow truck, a rolling pizza oven
is well known in the neighborhood.
Meaning he's busy.
He's taking orders soon.
We're not going be good at this.
This is going to be like "I love Lucy."
More like "laurel and hardy."
This is like a nightmare. I
actually have this nightmare,
where like, there's orders coming in, and I don't -
understand what they are because it's in a different
Language and I don't
know where anything is.
And I'm falling behind.
This is literally my nightmare.
Okay, get ready.
Get in there.
Lucy, come on, put on the
sauce. spread it on there, come on.
Don't take my job.
No, no, no.
You don't push.
Three spoons.
You're sloppy, man.
What is that?
What? I'm getting there.
It has to be even, the sauce.
Okay, ham, mushrooms and cheese. Let's go.
Come on, man. Customers
are backing up here.
- They want the pizza.
- My pizza is good, okay?
No, no, no, no. A little bit like that.
A little bit like that. Like that. Good.
Pizza, I soon notice, is different here.
Toppings are somewhat on the high end.
Crème fraiche, reblochon
cheese, lardon, figs, chevre.
Look at this line.
Stop digging around with
your insane perfectionism.
- Tony, he wants pizza, the guy.
- Yup.
Can you translate this for me?
I think this man is
speaking in profanities to me.
How long have you been
working on this pizza?
Michelangelo worked on the
Sistine chapel for less time.
There's a line of people waiting, Tony.
It's turning ugly out there.
Tony, lady wants a pizza.
He's new. He's new. I
can't do anything with him.
What happened?
Are you on your break or what?
Yeah. This is France. Got a nice break.
Another beautiful day in
paradise and we're - heading out
Into the country side.
And as always, when embarking
on a brotastic adventure,
an appropriate vehicle is called for.
In this case, a 1972 Citroen Maserati.
This is sweet. It's totally 70s.
You have to buy me one of these.
No. if we had one of these.
I bet Serge Gainsbourg...
Serge Gainsbourg probably banged
Jane Birkin - in the back of one of these.
No actually, you need a little more room.
Lourmarin is a 1000 year
old town about 90 minutes
from Marseille.
A picture-perfect village
known for its farmer's market.
You like green salad?
If I make a green salad,
you going to eat it?
No.
This one is very ripe.
That one, okay. We take the female.
You have a black coconut with basil?
- Or the traditional one?
- Let's go traditional.
We don't have time for messing around here.
- We need figs.
- What else is new?
We need a... -Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Definitely. And some bread.
And the bread.
- And wine.
- And the wine.
A very, very, very expensive wine.
- -Yeah? -Yeah. we're blowing out the
- budget, man.
Okay. Good.
Need more money.
So we open two reds?
We're going to be smashed.
We'll be needing that.
That's our cheese selection.
Which I will be artfully plating.
Baking like a meatloaf all of a sudden,
you go from freezing to - high heat.
I tell you, it's like...
- It's rough, huh?
- It's rough.
I use the butter.
By the time we're
halfway through this bottle,
you think this is as good
as the finest Bordeaux.
And by the way, we're
not suggesting, advising,
recommending
or any way condoning the
driving of a motor vehicle,
especially a high powered
Italian French hybrid,
while drunk because that would be wrong.
Well we're going to take a nap before.
Right, until our blood
alcohol level is in alignment
with all local regulations and laws.
I'm going to put salt on the tomatoes.
Oh, that's going to be good like that.
You know Martha Stewart pretty well.
- You've been on her show a lot.
- Yeah, yeah.
Give me an honest answer.
In a street fight, could
Martha Stewart choke me out?
I think if she goes to the dark side, yeah.
I think so, too.
This is not like my show at all, actually.
I'm going to get shit
for this, I'm telling you.
You're not keeping it real anymore, man.
All right look, it looks like a wine label.
As a Buddhist, does this worry you?
- -I'm sorry? -As a Buddhist does it worry
- you,
Considering how well
this life turned out for you?
No, it's good karma from my previous life.
But how long can that karma last?
Until it's dead. It ends.
When do you think that might be?
Any time soon, you never know.
Karma switch like that boom.
What would you not want to come back as?
What would your worst case
scenario be in the next life?
How many chances do you have
to be born as what you are, what I am?
In the entire universe.
Isn't that worrying to you?
The next life cannot
possibly be better than this.
It's probably going to suck.
I mean, best-case scenario,
you know, in our next life,
maybe if you get to sit in a sub
shop in Asbury Park, New Jersey,
that will be the greatest day of your life.
That will be the best-case scenario.
But the most challenging...
You end up, you know, a mime.
A diseased itinerant mime.
Wandering the streets for money.
Or worse.
You're a desperate case. I
don't know what - to do with you.
I'm just saying how much
better can it be than this?
Enjoy every minute of this now, Eric.
And pray, pray, pray that this is it.
That at the end of the they
roll you into a hole in the ground.
And you're diet for worms.
Because if you're right, and there
is a next life, we are -, my friend.
Well, the ultimate idea
is to be enlightened,
to come back and help
as many people as you can.
So all phenomenon of life and
what you perceive as reality,
is ultimately one.
Let's leave it at that.
Serenity now.
- Cheers.
- Cheers.
With our bellies full,
we're now prepared for the
challenge to come.
This is Rodiere and Danielle
of the villages pick tock team.
The hilltop village of
Roussillon is where our epic
battle is to take place.
Four men enter thunder
dome. Only two shall leave.
Well, look at these guys.
We're totally getting hustled.
Yeah, we're in trouble.
- Now they're not joking anymore.
- Yeah, I know.
USA, USA, USA.
- Oh, we have one point.
- All right.
So our humiliation is not total.
It's all we really - were looking for.
- Yeah, the rest we don't care.
- Okay, success.
- Okay. which one is me?
- I don't know.
- Oh.
- Jinx it.
Jinx it.
Do habsa habsa habsa.
See? Told you.
You're wishing evil on others.
You're totally coming
back as a sea cucumber.
This is like "deliverance" in reverse.
Oh, no!
- What is it? 10-10 now?
- 10-10.
This is my winning move.
- I know, you're so into this. I can't believe it.
- You're so competitive.
My jacket.
Oh, yeah, blame your jacket. There you go.
Oh!
USA.
Look! I've never seen him so happy.
All right.
It's Miller time.
I've never seen this side of you, man.
I don't know what to think.
They call them le calanque.
The many coves of fjords cutting through
the rock and soil
of the coast on both sides of the city.
They're a distinctively
beautiful feature of an already
beautiful area.
But no matter how beautiful
the cliffs and chasms
of le calanque
I sure as hell wouldn't
care to dive into water
of undeterminative
depth, from a great height.
No, I would not do that.
Welcome to my menu.
- Oh yeah.
- Wow.
Right, it's where you jump?
Yes.
- From here?
- 18 meters.
- It's only 18 meters?
- Yes.
It looks like it's much more.
Lionel Franc known to his friends as lulu,
grew up around le calanque.
And yes he would do that,
he does it almost every day.
You're very close. You
have to push yourself?
Oh, I can't even look at you doing that.
- Oh.
- That's it? You done?
I'm done. I'm just gonna sit.
Don't like heights.
Oh, geez. I look at him and my calves start
turning to jelly.
Look at the fish.
So after you belly flop and your
food squirts - out both end of you,
- the fish will feed on you.
- That's why they're coming.
Oh, geez.
Oh, look at that.
Exactly like me in the
morning, before breakfast.
Okay, good for me.
- Oooh.
- Hey, all right.
- Come on, man, you can do that.
- I don't know.
- Impressive.
- Yeah, very impressive.
Does he get paid for that?
I don't know. look, as
long as he's not a mime,
I'm okay with it.
He's definitely not a mime.
Even the smell of mime
makeup, I start to tremble with fear.
So it's a phobia.
It's a serious phobia.
Don't like it. Mimes, clowns, nurses shoes.
Like those white nurses shoes.
Oh, the clogs.
No. They're, like, super comfortable, like,
and they're white.
Yeah.
But not, like, super white
because they've been, you know,
walking through various bodily fluids
and there's a little speck
of, like, blood or urine on it.
But it's... it's true terror.
Wow.
Missed it by that much.
Too many men on this show.
It's a freakin' brofest.
Like most places, the
overwhelming majority of chefs
in Marseille are men.
However, each month, Georgiana Viou
hosts a dinner for her
female colleagues, chefs all.
Everybody here a chef in the business?
Yeah.
How many more are there like you?
Uh, maybe three or four in Marseille.
France, kind of macho country.
And if you want to find your place,
it's very difficult when you are a girl.
But actually, like, in
Mediterranean, the example
for cooking, the basic...
Yes.
Because if you want to have good food,
you don't go to restaurants
in Marseille that much.
You know your grandmother
or mother will cook much better.
Georgiana is from Benin,
via Nigeria and London,
but beyond all else, she's Marseillaise.
Beef tartare with botargo,
dried eggs, apple and celeriac.
Counterintuitive one would
think, but truly amazing and
delicious.
I'm coming from Paris and
I used to cook with butter
and cream and whatever,
and today I can't imagine
my cuisine
without olive oil, without
vegetables, without seafood,
without spices.
And on the top you're going
to put some salt of the tartare.
It's a good idea. It's better
than putting - anchovies.
If you want, you can do it on tartare.
I'm going to do it. I'll
send you the picture.
- Sure?
- Seriously. I'm going to do it.
Oh, cool.
And my single favorite Marseillaise classic
pierre e parke.
A dish which encapsulates
everything I love and believe
in about food.
First the hair on the
sheep's foot is burned off.
The meat is then tenderized
and cut into pieces.
Sheep's tripe is cleaned
and cut into squares.
Each piece is stuffed
with onions, parsley, garlic
and salt pork before being
rolled and wrapped into small
pouches.
These are stewed for several
hours in a sauce of white wine,
tomatoes, bacon, onion,
and carrots along with
the sheep's foot.
- I love this dish.
- I love this dish, too.
This is everything I believe in in food.
This is just absolutely the top.
This is a dish with soul,
to make it good, you have to put
your soul into it.
If you don't have it, you don't...
I like it here.
He's already thinking about retiring here.
In Marseille? Sure?
- -You said you could retire here. -I said I could retire here.
- Yeah.
- Yeah, why not?
- No, no, I'm happy to hear that.
It's not an easy city. It's
not museums, Disneyland,
you know,
Everything is kind of
dirty and complicated.
But when you are in
Marseille and just you have
the fantastic light
and the sea and you
can have the best fishes.
Yes, you are home. I
mean, just like being home.
Marseille is not France in the best
possible way.
Algerians, Moroccans, Italians,
their cultural and culinary - influences
Have enriched Marseille
with flavors and colors
all their own.
But there's another major influence.
The Corsican mafia,
who to be fair along with
their Sicilian colleagues
did kind of run things around here for much
of the last century.
Those days are mostly over.
And the Corsican presence has dwindled
to a few thousand, - which is a shame
Because Corsica produces
some of the most wonderful cheese
anywhere.
Pancetta and the... -Awesome.
Yeah but we want everything.
A cured meat and cheese shop
run by Marie Paul and
family still going after 70 years.
Famously or notoriously,
however you want to put it,
this was a Corsican town.
When I would go to the shop as a kid,
my aunt, probably a typical
xenophobic French woman
of her generation, said
all the Corsicans, they're all
gangsters or policemen.
Oh, today just got better.
Very flavorful.
Oh, this one is unbelievable.
The flavor of that is unbelievable.
- Yeah, we're not dicking around.
- Lingers too.
I love this. It's making me happy.
Want some?
Here, have a piece.
You want some? This is the copa,
this one is special.
All right. Let's move on to cheese.
Ah, look at that. That's beautiful.
Those ones are milder. This one is strong.
Oh wow. That is some...
This looks very
intensive but it's like ooh.
That is some deep
funk. That is some... wow.
See, when I eat cheese like
this and I drink wine like this,
I start thinking of my fantasies.
Maybe you saw Godfather too.
Yeah, of course.
I just think, I could just
spend the rest of my life
sitting on a hill in Corsica,
eating goat cheese,
drinking wine
and having my enemies
killed by remote control.
I would love to live that lifestyle except,
killing enemies,
as you know, I'm not killing anyone.
I've never seen you wish ill on anyone.
As long as I've known you.
You've never even said that rat
bastard, I hope something really
bad happens, I hope he gets stomach cancer.
Or, you've never even said
I hope he loses his girlfriend.
You've never wished ill on anyone.
- I don't.
- So let me ask,
in your darkest heart of
hearts, do you ever stray,
do you ever find yourself thinking, oh,
I really hope - they just, I don't know,
I hope they get herpes?
I wish ill on people every day.
Sorry Tony, you know,
I mean, cheers to hell
It's a big night in Marseille.
The city's football team,
that's soccer team to you,
is playing which means
the whole city's watching.
Eric and I head to the hipster
neighborhood to meet up with
Gilles Rof, a film-maker and
sportswriter for France's top
newspaper le monde.
So, tonight, the big
game, it's Marseille, Lille.
It's Lille against Marseille
because it's in Lille.
It's not here.
So we'll have to watch it on TV.
And will all of Marseille be watching this?
- -Yeah. -Everybody's going to be
- watching.
You know, we did a very good season.
But at the end of the
season, we are only fourth.
- So it's a must win.
- It's very important.
- So it's a must win today.
- Right.
So the dream of every Marseillaisean,
the perfect season
would be to see Marseille
crush Paris, move on
and go all the way.
They don't want to be second first.
They want to be second to none.
And in football, it's
one of the only issues,
where they can be first.
That's why people here love
so much their soccer team.
Because it's the place where you can show
your identity.
If you go all around the
streets and you ask people,
where are you from?
They'll tell you, I'm from
Nigeria, I'm from Morocco.
But if you ask them,
what is your favorite team
they will say Marseille.
Because they are a part of the city.
They are from this city
and the football team
is the flag of this city.
About 75 years ago, the properties around
the calanques
were mostly farmland then small shacks.
The working class
families from the city used
as weekend getaways.
No running water or indoor plumbing.
Simple. A place to get
together, have a long
winey lunch.
Hello.
You can't build new ones
and the ones that are here
like this one owned by
Dominique and Natalie
have been in the same
family since the '40s.
And they ain't going anywhere.
Is this area protected?
Meaning if I wanted to open
a giant modern hotel across
there, it's impossible, right?
Actually, a couple of years
ago it was kind of scaled up on
the protection level,
so nothing's going to happen now.
And most of these properties
are owned by the same family
for many years?
But we live in Marseille
and we came here for
the weekend.
That's nice.
Lunch is being prepared by de-de.
Penisse, crispy fried fritters
of chickpea, which go well
with Natalies aioli,
and one of my favorites,
Mediterranian sea snails
simmered in garlic, wild
fennell and orange peel.
That's the taste of this region for me.
It's garlic, olive oil, saffron.
True.
- And these.
- Exactly.
And look at this. Look at this.
Sardine. Lightly marinated
in lemon and olive oil.
You can pretty much rub that all over me.
I don't care.
So good and so fresh.
Perfect. Oily little fish in a garden.
Okay, so we discussed the characteristics
of the true Marseillase.
Is Marseille France?
No.
You're loyal to New York before America.
That's true.
So what about the people?
What do all true, true
Marseillaise have in common?
A big liar?
They have the reputation of exaggerating.
So if you eat sardines
like that, we're like,
I want to learn to have sardines like this.
Octopus stew. Slow cooked
in wine and typical elements
of cooking,
like dry orange peel, garlic, and tomato.
Spoon over pasta and enjoy.
Oh, yes. I can smell
that octo stock. Fantastic.
So when are you retiring? At what age?
As soon as possible. Seriously.
- Right?
- You want to tom back?
Yeah, I don't want to leave.
I mean, when you see that, that lifestyle,
and people come from all
over Europe by highways,
they spend hours in their car to be here.
My grandparents and my
uncles used to have that lifestyle.
Like exactly like that.
- Right?
And I forgot about it. Now I'm remembering.
I'm telling you, a chain of
cynical surf and turf - restaurants,
We can cash out in two years.
If it is to be here, yeah, I'll do it.
♪ I took a walk through
this beautiful world ♪
♪ Felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪
♪ Found something good
in this beautiful world ♪
♪ I felt the rain getting colder ♪
♪ Sha la la la la ♪
♪ Sha la la la la la ♪
♪ Sha la la la la ♪
♪ Sha la la la la la la ♪ ♪
If you've been to France,
chances are you haven't
been here.
France's second largest
city, the oldest city in France.
It sits right by the Mediterranean.
The food is famously good.
Yet, it's a victim of bad
reputation, bad history.
Marseille.
As it turns out, exactly
the kind of place I like.
But this is a buddy picture, isn't it?
Eric Ripert is the chef of the
three-star La Bernadin in - New York.
The Chevalier of France.
I think that means he's some
kind of knight or something.
And my friend.
This causes him some problems.
He, I like to remind him,
has a reputation to protect.
I do not.
- Welcome to Marseille.
- Yeah.
You've never been here?
Never.
How is this even possible?
You grew up how far from here?
Like, 50 miles. 100 miles.
You grew up 100 miles from here?
What prevented you from
coming to this clearly beautiful city?
Because it's clearly beautiful.
It's a fantastic city.
I mean, it's beautiful. I agree with you.
But it has the reputation
of being a dangerous city.
You live in New York.
I should point out that
every single Frenchmen,
when I said, you know,
I'm shooting in France.
And they say, oh really,
where? And I say, Marseille.
Their face drops immediately, like, oh.
Why's that? Because they think it's ugly?
Do you know what they say?
They say this is not France.
With a "Z" like that?
This is not France.
Well, I'm looking forward to the week.
Yeah.
This is a low-impact show.
What is a low-impact show?
It means I'm not, you
know, paddling upriver.
It means I get a flush
toilet, eating well constantly.
You like luxury.
I do, look, I do.
I like a fluffy hotel towel.
I like a bidet.
Look, I like warm jets of
water squirting up my ass.
I mean, who doesn't?
I could retire here.
I could retire here, too.
You see, that's sort of the
measure of a place - for me is like,
If you start thinking thoughts like that.
Like, that must be nice. I could live here.
Just me and my watercolors, you know?
Puttering.
When you retire, are you going to putter?
What's putter?
Dicking around.
Basically, you wake up
and maybe you paint a little.
I could paint.
You know, well, OK. Do
you how to make a sweater.
Who do you think I am like? Who am I?
I would like to go fishing.
You know, I've never
catch anything in my life.
Do you actually fish?
Do you know how to fish?
Do you ever fish?
I don't know how to fish.
I'll show you how.
All you need is a car battery
and a couple of cables.
Trust me, you get all the fish you want.
Well, that's...
- They come right up.
- We have to be gentle.
There's other ways. How do
you say dynamite - in French?
- Dynamite.
- Dynamite.
See, I do speak French.
You can tell. You know it's coming, right?
You can sense it.
Oh, no. Another fishing scene.
This is our vessel here on the right.
Eric is one of only a
handful of old-style fishermen
who work the sea the old-fashioned way.
Do you see yourself fishing?
- No.
- It's stressful to me.
Right. I always think
I'm going to catch, like,
my testicles or my ear with the hook.
You know, I have a fear of fish hooks.
You guys catching dente?
Yes. He said it's the best
fish of the Mediterranean.
I have no idea what he's talking about.
Well, hopefully, we'll see.
Well, hopefully, we'll taste it.
Well, he's supposed to
deliver it to Le Petit Nice.
Yeah, that's right.
Eric works exclusively for this man,
Gerald Passedat.
The extremely demanding
chef/owner of Le Petit Nice.
Marseille's only three
Michelin-star restaurant.
I'm ready for my fisherman, actually.
It won't be long.
It depends on what the
Mediterranean Sea will
offer to us.
So it's a long line, Tony.
How long is the line?
Well, he say he has about, today 300 hooks.
So he basically lays it out at night?
- Yeah.
- Comes back and pick it up.
In Marseille is only five guys,
five fishermen will rock it like him.
You know he has 300 hooks.
See he's right in time.
This must be the 12th fishing scene.
No, I must have done 20
fishing scenes in my life.
And I think I had one
good day out of all of them.
Other than that, it's been
one humiliating goat rodeo
after another.
Ordinarily, our typical fishing
scene actually would be,
it would be rougher than this.
So we'd be pitching back and forth.
And I'd be hanging on to the contents
of my stomach,
only by realizing that
they feel even sicker
because they have to
look through the view finder.
So they're like...
so it's basically you're playing this
sort of race against time - kind of a game.
It's like who's going to puke first.
- -Yeah. -But it's always the camera
- dudes though.
- Is it?
- No. Generally, it's our
producer.
He said bad days, I had
some bad days but this one...
- This is the worst.
- This is the worst.
Well, there it is.
Another extraordinarily
successful fishing scene - in the can.
Time to reap the rewards
awaiting us back on dry land.
You'll tell me if there's any
oiled up amazons behind me.
- Behind you?
- They're frolicking naked.
Yes. Right now they're
kind of like mature Amazons.
It will happen.
Here's the chef.
- Anthony Bourdain.
- Nice to meet you.
Nice to meet you. An honor, sir.
Would you mind to have the bouillabaisse?
Is it a good idea? Or...
No, no, no. It's a very good idea.
There's reinvented, deconstructed
and then usually there's the thing, itself.
Passedat's take on bouillabaisse,
without a doubt Marseille's
most famous dish
is spread out over four courses.
First, shellfish carpaccio
of raw mussels and clams.
This is super, huh?
They slice the muscles raw.
That's crazy. Wow.
I decided to make this
bouillabaisse, like a version
when I was a child.
On those rocks, when I was with
my knife, opening the mussels,
eating the mussels.
In my cuisine, there's no cream, no butter.
It's not traditional at all.
It's just based on the fish.
This is my way of thinking,
my cuisine here. For myself.
Slipper lobster, weaver,
angler, and red gurnard
lightly seared then a touch in the oven.
Oh, whoa.
This is just incredibly beautiful.
It's so delicate and at the same time
flavorful and powerful.
This is insanely good.
A broth so intense it requires
over ten kilos of rock crabs
and various bony tasty little fishes,
to make just one kilo of
brown, gloriously brown,
magical liquid.
Dorade and dentelle,
steamed over seaweed water,
saffron potatoes, and then
finally comes that magical
brown broth.
- Oh.
- Wow.
Ahh.
That's a good one, huh?
Oh, man.
This is unbelievable.
The entire fish you're eating. Yeah.
And just when my brain threatens
to short circuit - with pleasure.
Descending as if from heaven itself.
Oh, cheese.
Oh, god, the cheese.
I got to tell you, I don't care
how about naked breasts
are on that beach right now,
because that's much more - exciting.
All right. Look at it. It's beautiful.
- Food taste good?
- Yes.
Oh, look at that. Oh, man.
Oh, I love the cheese.
Cheese like this. That is just incredible.
Oh, yes.
That is exceptional.
Life is good.
Life is good.
Marseille was once the hub.
The rough and tumble principle
Port for France's colony - such as
Tunisia, Morocco, and Algeria.
As a result the sights and
smells of Africa permeate
the city.
There's been attempts to
disuade me from Marseille,
you don't want to go
there, and yet I come here.
Correct me if I'm wrong,
it is a beautiful city.
It smells good. You smell the different
pastries.
The Tajin, we have leabess.
And it's an extraordinary looking city
and the people are
really interesting looking.
I must say, you are in
the center of the world
because the world is in Marseille.
We are connected to the Mediterranean sea.
So it's really different
from the north of France.
I feel closer to a guy from Oracle,
than a guy from maybe
Germany or... it's different.
Cedric Fabre is a
Marseille crime writer who
spent decades
deciphering the dense layers
of crime and corruption,
pasties, and sunshine.
It's a perfect town for writers of Mark.
Plenty of atmospherics and lurid history.
Why do you think it's such a fertile ground
to set a crime novel?
For me it's more interesting because
you write about the - place you live in.
I walk in the street, I
have an idea, et cetera.
I couldn't write about past
things like James Leroy does.
Because I have to know the
real part of the city, the people.
Here it's a really interesting
stew of characters.
In Marseille, there is a very poor area
and a very rich area.
The difference between these two areas
is the worst in France.
So that makes an interesting
city because when we write
crime novel,
we write both the differences
between the poor people, the - rich people,
Et cetera, so that's interesting.
Le Femina is an Algerian restaurant
with some of the better cous cous in town.
And since it's a very filling dish
and I only got one crack at it,
I go for the royale. What else?
Vegetables, chickpeas,
merguez sausage, chicken,
chunks of lamb, and meatballs.
What people say,
is that everybody sees themselves
as Marseillaise first and French second,
regardless of your
background. Is that true?
Because in Marseille we
love that city. It's our city.
And at the same time,
we hate a lot of aspects.
We have both love and hate.
It's part of a complex, I think.
Marseille has always
made bad choices in politics.
When France lost its colonies,
it was an economic disaster for
Marseille.
I'm thinking about one of
your cities in the states, Detroit.
It was a huge city. It was very important.
And a beautiful... -And what happened?
Yeah, we abandoned
Detroit. We abandoned it.
It became too black for America to...
Maybe France is abandoning Marseille.
Sometimes people say, in
Marseille, people, - they are racist.
I would say in Marseille,
people, they are connected
with other people.
Let's hope Marseille people figure that out
because I think it's amazing here.
If you ask real Marseillease these day,
what's the iconic dish?
The one thing you most closely
associate with home, the answer
might surprise you.
Pizza.
Marseille, it turns out,
is the pizza truck capital
of France.
So this could be a whole
new beginning for you, Eric.
Yes.
I always said, you should have a truck.
Yeah. I'll do it with you.
- Do you have pizza experience?
- Never did a pizza in my life.
Does he know this.
No, he doesn't know. I'm going to tell him.
Okay, let's go.
Our employer for this episode
of the real world - geriatric edition
Is Jean-Denis Martinez.
His yellow truck, a rolling pizza oven
is well known in the neighborhood.
Meaning he's busy.
He's taking orders soon.
We're not going be good at this.
This is going to be like "I love Lucy."
More like "laurel and hardy."
This is like a nightmare. I
actually have this nightmare,
where like, there's orders coming in, and I don't -
understand what they are because it's in a different
Language and I don't
know where anything is.
And I'm falling behind.
This is literally my nightmare.
Okay, get ready.
Get in there.
Lucy, come on, put on the
sauce. spread it on there, come on.
Don't take my job.
No, no, no.
You don't push.
Three spoons.
You're sloppy, man.
What is that?
What? I'm getting there.
It has to be even, the sauce.
Okay, ham, mushrooms and cheese. Let's go.
Come on, man. Customers
are backing up here.
- They want the pizza.
- My pizza is good, okay?
No, no, no, no. A little bit like that.
A little bit like that. Like that. Good.
Pizza, I soon notice, is different here.
Toppings are somewhat on the high end.
Crème fraiche, reblochon
cheese, lardon, figs, chevre.
Look at this line.
Stop digging around with
your insane perfectionism.
- Tony, he wants pizza, the guy.
- Yup.
Can you translate this for me?
I think this man is
speaking in profanities to me.
How long have you been
working on this pizza?
Michelangelo worked on the
Sistine chapel for less time.
There's a line of people waiting, Tony.
It's turning ugly out there.
Tony, lady wants a pizza.
He's new. He's new. I
can't do anything with him.
What happened?
Are you on your break or what?
Yeah. This is France. Got a nice break.
Another beautiful day in
paradise and we're - heading out
Into the country side.
And as always, when embarking
on a brotastic adventure,
an appropriate vehicle is called for.
In this case, a 1972 Citroen Maserati.
This is sweet. It's totally 70s.
You have to buy me one of these.
No. if we had one of these.
I bet Serge Gainsbourg...
Serge Gainsbourg probably banged
Jane Birkin - in the back of one of these.
No actually, you need a little more room.
Lourmarin is a 1000 year
old town about 90 minutes
from Marseille.
A picture-perfect village
known for its farmer's market.
You like green salad?
If I make a green salad,
you going to eat it?
No.
This one is very ripe.
That one, okay. We take the female.
You have a black coconut with basil?
- Or the traditional one?
- Let's go traditional.
We don't have time for messing around here.
- We need figs.
- What else is new?
We need a... -Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Definitely. And some bread.
And the bread.
- And wine.
- And the wine.
A very, very, very expensive wine.
- -Yeah? -Yeah. we're blowing out the
- budget, man.
Okay. Good.
Need more money.
So we open two reds?
We're going to be smashed.
We'll be needing that.
That's our cheese selection.
Which I will be artfully plating.
Baking like a meatloaf all of a sudden,
you go from freezing to - high heat.
I tell you, it's like...
- It's rough, huh?
- It's rough.
I use the butter.
By the time we're
halfway through this bottle,
you think this is as good
as the finest Bordeaux.
And by the way, we're
not suggesting, advising,
recommending
or any way condoning the
driving of a motor vehicle,
especially a high powered
Italian French hybrid,
while drunk because that would be wrong.
Well we're going to take a nap before.
Right, until our blood
alcohol level is in alignment
with all local regulations and laws.
I'm going to put salt on the tomatoes.
Oh, that's going to be good like that.
You know Martha Stewart pretty well.
- You've been on her show a lot.
- Yeah, yeah.
Give me an honest answer.
In a street fight, could
Martha Stewart choke me out?
I think if she goes to the dark side, yeah.
I think so, too.
This is not like my show at all, actually.
I'm going to get shit
for this, I'm telling you.
You're not keeping it real anymore, man.
All right look, it looks like a wine label.
As a Buddhist, does this worry you?
- -I'm sorry? -As a Buddhist does it worry
- you,
Considering how well
this life turned out for you?
No, it's good karma from my previous life.
But how long can that karma last?
Until it's dead. It ends.
When do you think that might be?
Any time soon, you never know.
Karma switch like that boom.
What would you not want to come back as?
What would your worst case
scenario be in the next life?
How many chances do you have
to be born as what you are, what I am?
In the entire universe.
Isn't that worrying to you?
The next life cannot
possibly be better than this.
It's probably going to suck.
I mean, best-case scenario,
you know, in our next life,
maybe if you get to sit in a sub
shop in Asbury Park, New Jersey,
that will be the greatest day of your life.
That will be the best-case scenario.
But the most challenging...
You end up, you know, a mime.
A diseased itinerant mime.
Wandering the streets for money.
Or worse.
You're a desperate case. I
don't know what - to do with you.
I'm just saying how much
better can it be than this?
Enjoy every minute of this now, Eric.
And pray, pray, pray that this is it.
That at the end of the they
roll you into a hole in the ground.
And you're diet for worms.
Because if you're right, and there
is a next life, we are -, my friend.
Well, the ultimate idea
is to be enlightened,
to come back and help
as many people as you can.
So all phenomenon of life and
what you perceive as reality,
is ultimately one.
Let's leave it at that.
Serenity now.
- Cheers.
- Cheers.
With our bellies full,
we're now prepared for the
challenge to come.
This is Rodiere and Danielle
of the villages pick tock team.
The hilltop village of
Roussillon is where our epic
battle is to take place.
Four men enter thunder
dome. Only two shall leave.
Well, look at these guys.
We're totally getting hustled.
Yeah, we're in trouble.
- Now they're not joking anymore.
- Yeah, I know.
USA, USA, USA.
- Oh, we have one point.
- All right.
So our humiliation is not total.
It's all we really - were looking for.
- Yeah, the rest we don't care.
- Okay, success.
- Okay. which one is me?
- I don't know.
- Oh.
- Jinx it.
Jinx it.
Do habsa habsa habsa.
See? Told you.
You're wishing evil on others.
You're totally coming
back as a sea cucumber.
This is like "deliverance" in reverse.
Oh, no!
- What is it? 10-10 now?
- 10-10.
This is my winning move.
- I know, you're so into this. I can't believe it.
- You're so competitive.
My jacket.
Oh, yeah, blame your jacket. There you go.
Oh!
USA.
Look! I've never seen him so happy.
All right.
It's Miller time.
I've never seen this side of you, man.
I don't know what to think.
They call them le calanque.
The many coves of fjords cutting through
the rock and soil
of the coast on both sides of the city.
They're a distinctively
beautiful feature of an already
beautiful area.
But no matter how beautiful
the cliffs and chasms
of le calanque
I sure as hell wouldn't
care to dive into water
of undeterminative
depth, from a great height.
No, I would not do that.
Welcome to my menu.
- Oh yeah.
- Wow.
Right, it's where you jump?
Yes.
- From here?
- 18 meters.
- It's only 18 meters?
- Yes.
It looks like it's much more.
Lionel Franc known to his friends as lulu,
grew up around le calanque.
And yes he would do that,
he does it almost every day.
You're very close. You
have to push yourself?
Oh, I can't even look at you doing that.
- Oh.
- That's it? You done?
I'm done. I'm just gonna sit.
Don't like heights.
Oh, geez. I look at him and my calves start
turning to jelly.
Look at the fish.
So after you belly flop and your
food squirts - out both end of you,
- the fish will feed on you.
- That's why they're coming.
Oh, geez.
Oh, look at that.
Exactly like me in the
morning, before breakfast.
Okay, good for me.
- Oooh.
- Hey, all right.
- Come on, man, you can do that.
- I don't know.
- Impressive.
- Yeah, very impressive.
Does he get paid for that?
I don't know. look, as
long as he's not a mime,
I'm okay with it.
He's definitely not a mime.
Even the smell of mime
makeup, I start to tremble with fear.
So it's a phobia.
It's a serious phobia.
Don't like it. Mimes, clowns, nurses shoes.
Like those white nurses shoes.
Oh, the clogs.
No. They're, like, super comfortable, like,
and they're white.
Yeah.
But not, like, super white
because they've been, you know,
walking through various bodily fluids
and there's a little speck
of, like, blood or urine on it.
But it's... it's true terror.
Wow.
Missed it by that much.
Too many men on this show.
It's a freakin' brofest.
Like most places, the
overwhelming majority of chefs
in Marseille are men.
However, each month, Georgiana Viou
hosts a dinner for her
female colleagues, chefs all.
Everybody here a chef in the business?
Yeah.
How many more are there like you?
Uh, maybe three or four in Marseille.
France, kind of macho country.
And if you want to find your place,
it's very difficult when you are a girl.
But actually, like, in
Mediterranean, the example
for cooking, the basic...
Yes.
Because if you want to have good food,
you don't go to restaurants
in Marseille that much.
You know your grandmother
or mother will cook much better.
Georgiana is from Benin,
via Nigeria and London,
but beyond all else, she's Marseillaise.
Beef tartare with botargo,
dried eggs, apple and celeriac.
Counterintuitive one would
think, but truly amazing and
delicious.
I'm coming from Paris and
I used to cook with butter
and cream and whatever,
and today I can't imagine
my cuisine
without olive oil, without
vegetables, without seafood,
without spices.
And on the top you're going
to put some salt of the tartare.
It's a good idea. It's better
than putting - anchovies.
If you want, you can do it on tartare.
I'm going to do it. I'll
send you the picture.
- Sure?
- Seriously. I'm going to do it.
Oh, cool.
And my single favorite Marseillaise classic
pierre e parke.
A dish which encapsulates
everything I love and believe
in about food.
First the hair on the
sheep's foot is burned off.
The meat is then tenderized
and cut into pieces.
Sheep's tripe is cleaned
and cut into squares.
Each piece is stuffed
with onions, parsley, garlic
and salt pork before being
rolled and wrapped into small
pouches.
These are stewed for several
hours in a sauce of white wine,
tomatoes, bacon, onion,
and carrots along with
the sheep's foot.
- I love this dish.
- I love this dish, too.
This is everything I believe in in food.
This is just absolutely the top.
This is a dish with soul,
to make it good, you have to put
your soul into it.
If you don't have it, you don't...
I like it here.
He's already thinking about retiring here.
In Marseille? Sure?
- -You said you could retire here. -I said I could retire here.
- Yeah.
- Yeah, why not?
- No, no, I'm happy to hear that.
It's not an easy city. It's
not museums, Disneyland,
you know,
Everything is kind of
dirty and complicated.
But when you are in
Marseille and just you have
the fantastic light
and the sea and you
can have the best fishes.
Yes, you are home. I
mean, just like being home.
Marseille is not France in the best
possible way.
Algerians, Moroccans, Italians,
their cultural and culinary - influences
Have enriched Marseille
with flavors and colors
all their own.
But there's another major influence.
The Corsican mafia,
who to be fair along with
their Sicilian colleagues
did kind of run things around here for much
of the last century.
Those days are mostly over.
And the Corsican presence has dwindled
to a few thousand, - which is a shame
Because Corsica produces
some of the most wonderful cheese
anywhere.
Pancetta and the... -Awesome.
Yeah but we want everything.
A cured meat and cheese shop
run by Marie Paul and
family still going after 70 years.
Famously or notoriously,
however you want to put it,
this was a Corsican town.
When I would go to the shop as a kid,
my aunt, probably a typical
xenophobic French woman
of her generation, said
all the Corsicans, they're all
gangsters or policemen.
Oh, today just got better.
Very flavorful.
Oh, this one is unbelievable.
The flavor of that is unbelievable.
- Yeah, we're not dicking around.
- Lingers too.
I love this. It's making me happy.
Want some?
Here, have a piece.
You want some? This is the copa,
this one is special.
All right. Let's move on to cheese.
Ah, look at that. That's beautiful.
Those ones are milder. This one is strong.
Oh wow. That is some...
This looks very
intensive but it's like ooh.
That is some deep
funk. That is some... wow.
See, when I eat cheese like
this and I drink wine like this,
I start thinking of my fantasies.
Maybe you saw Godfather too.
Yeah, of course.
I just think, I could just
spend the rest of my life
sitting on a hill in Corsica,
eating goat cheese,
drinking wine
and having my enemies
killed by remote control.
I would love to live that lifestyle except,
killing enemies,
as you know, I'm not killing anyone.
I've never seen you wish ill on anyone.
As long as I've known you.
You've never even said that rat
bastard, I hope something really
bad happens, I hope he gets stomach cancer.
Or, you've never even said
I hope he loses his girlfriend.
You've never wished ill on anyone.
- I don't.
- So let me ask,
in your darkest heart of
hearts, do you ever stray,
do you ever find yourself thinking, oh,
I really hope - they just, I don't know,
I hope they get herpes?
I wish ill on people every day.
Sorry Tony, you know,
I mean, cheers to hell
It's a big night in Marseille.
The city's football team,
that's soccer team to you,
is playing which means
the whole city's watching.
Eric and I head to the hipster
neighborhood to meet up with
Gilles Rof, a film-maker and
sportswriter for France's top
newspaper le monde.
So, tonight, the big
game, it's Marseille, Lille.
It's Lille against Marseille
because it's in Lille.
It's not here.
So we'll have to watch it on TV.
And will all of Marseille be watching this?
- -Yeah. -Everybody's going to be
- watching.
You know, we did a very good season.
But at the end of the
season, we are only fourth.
- So it's a must win.
- It's very important.
- So it's a must win today.
- Right.
So the dream of every Marseillaisean,
the perfect season
would be to see Marseille
crush Paris, move on
and go all the way.
They don't want to be second first.
They want to be second to none.
And in football, it's
one of the only issues,
where they can be first.
That's why people here love
so much their soccer team.
Because it's the place where you can show
your identity.
If you go all around the
streets and you ask people,
where are you from?
They'll tell you, I'm from
Nigeria, I'm from Morocco.
But if you ask them,
what is your favorite team
they will say Marseille.
Because they are a part of the city.
They are from this city
and the football team
is the flag of this city.
About 75 years ago, the properties around
the calanques
were mostly farmland then small shacks.
The working class
families from the city used
as weekend getaways.
No running water or indoor plumbing.
Simple. A place to get
together, have a long
winey lunch.
Hello.
You can't build new ones
and the ones that are here
like this one owned by
Dominique and Natalie
have been in the same
family since the '40s.
And they ain't going anywhere.
Is this area protected?
Meaning if I wanted to open
a giant modern hotel across
there, it's impossible, right?
Actually, a couple of years
ago it was kind of scaled up on
the protection level,
so nothing's going to happen now.
And most of these properties
are owned by the same family
for many years?
But we live in Marseille
and we came here for
the weekend.
That's nice.
Lunch is being prepared by de-de.
Penisse, crispy fried fritters
of chickpea, which go well
with Natalies aioli,
and one of my favorites,
Mediterranian sea snails
simmered in garlic, wild
fennell and orange peel.
That's the taste of this region for me.
It's garlic, olive oil, saffron.
True.
- And these.
- Exactly.
And look at this. Look at this.
Sardine. Lightly marinated
in lemon and olive oil.
You can pretty much rub that all over me.
I don't care.
So good and so fresh.
Perfect. Oily little fish in a garden.
Okay, so we discussed the characteristics
of the true Marseillase.
Is Marseille France?
No.
You're loyal to New York before America.
That's true.
So what about the people?
What do all true, true
Marseillaise have in common?
A big liar?
They have the reputation of exaggerating.
So if you eat sardines
like that, we're like,
I want to learn to have sardines like this.
Octopus stew. Slow cooked
in wine and typical elements
of cooking,
like dry orange peel, garlic, and tomato.
Spoon over pasta and enjoy.
Oh, yes. I can smell
that octo stock. Fantastic.
So when are you retiring? At what age?
As soon as possible. Seriously.
- Right?
- You want to tom back?
Yeah, I don't want to leave.
I mean, when you see that, that lifestyle,
and people come from all
over Europe by highways,
they spend hours in their car to be here.
My grandparents and my
uncles used to have that lifestyle.
Like exactly like that.
- Right?
And I forgot about it. Now I'm remembering.
I'm telling you, a chain of
cynical surf and turf - restaurants,
We can cash out in two years.
If it is to be here, yeah, I'll do it.