America's Test Kitchen (2000–…): Season 14, Episode 4 - A Modern Take on Pizza and Grilled Cheese - full transcript
Test cook Dan Souza shows host Christopher Kimball how to make a great Thin-Crust Whole-Wheat pizza with Garlic oil, Three cheeses, and Basil at home, and gadget guru Lisa McManus reveals her favorite pizza gadgets. Next, tasting ...
- From the editors
of Cook's Illustrated magazine,
it's America's Test Kitchen
with your host
Christopher Kimball,
featuring Test Kitchen chefs
Julia Collin Davison,
Bridget Lancaster,
Becky Hays,
with Adam Ried
in the Equipment Corner
and Jack Bishop
in the Tasting Lab.
Discover the secrets
of America's foremost
food testers and tasters,
today on America's Test Kitchen.
- Today on
America's Test Kitchen,
Dan shows Chris how to make
a great thin-crust
whole-wheat pizza at home.
And Gadget Guru Lisa reveals
her favorite pizza tools.
Next, Jack challenges Chris
to a tasting of goat cheese.
And finally,
Bridget uncovers the secrets
to the ultimate grown-up
grilled cheese sandwich
with cheddar and shallot.
That's all right here,
on America's Test Kitchen.
- Walk in to virtually
any supermarket
and buy something
labeled whole wheat
and it has probably a mere
dusting of whole wheat flour.
Whether it's pasta,
it's bread that looks
just like white bread
or even "whole-wheat pizza,"
which is mostly
all-purpose flour.
Now we wanted the full flavor
of whole-wheat flour,
but without the tough
thin crust.
So let's head into
the test kitchen with Dan
to make a whole-wheat pizza
that has big flavor,
but also has great
chewy texture.
- Here's a question I get
all the time from our viewers.
And I'm going to ask you
the same question.
"Ever wonder how Chris Kimball
stays so skinny
when tasting all of that
luxurious food?"
And my slightly sardonic answer
is I chose my parents carefully.
It's purely genetic,
but you're also skinny.
So I thought I'd ask you.
- Well, we have
the same parents.
- We're brothers,
can't you tell?
Okay, good answer.
- Yeah.
- So whole-wheat pizza has got
lots of problems.
It turns up dense,
it's not chewy,
you don't get big air bubbles
in it.
It actually sounds
like a horrible idea.
- You know, whole-wheat flour
can produce
a lot of good flavor.
You know, we find that
in rustic breads a lot
that there's a trend towards
adding whole wheat,
so it can be a good thing.
With pizza we're really into
the texture of it.
It needs to be chewy
and have a nice
kind of airy quality to it.
So there's a little bit more
work involved in it.
First thing we need to look at
was how much whole wheat
we're going to use.
You could find recipes out there
that use 100% whole wheat,
but the texture's really bad,
you know
and the flavor's
a little bit overwhelming.
On the other hand,
you find store-bought stuff
that has just a smattering
of whole wheat in it
and it doesn't really taste
like anything.
So we wanted to use a lot,
we ended up with 60%
whole-wheat flour.
Using my food processor here
we've got one and a half cups
of whole-wheat flour.
Now we need to balance that
with something
that has enough gluten
potential,
so we're going to use
white flour.
And we're actually using
King Arthur bread flour.
Bread flour has more protein
than all-purpose flour,
and King Arthur
is especially high in protein.
So there's more potential
for gluten development.
That's going to give us
more of that airy, lofty quality
that we want in pizza.
We're using
three-quarters of a teaspoon
of instant rapid-rise yeast.
And then next I'm going
to add some honey.
This is a couple teaspoons
of honey.
That's our sweetener of choice
in this case
because it's going to provide
really good browning.
So I'm going to pop
my lid on here,
and I'm just going to kind of
pulse this together,
just make sure
it's evenly distributed.
So next we have to add
our water.
Now, we're using
the food processor,
which is great.
It's much faster
than a stand mixer.
Stand mixer would probably take
eight to nine minutes
to mix this dough.
We can do this
in about a minute.
One of the downsides of it
is that it has
a really fast-moving blade,
so it produces
a lot of friction
and a lot of heat.
So you really have to be careful
when you're working with that,
so this is ice water.
So what I'm going to do
is with my machine running,
I'm just going to pour this in
until a dough forms.
I'm using a cup
and a quarter of water.
We're going to let this rest
for about ten minutes.
- So as Dan said, whole-wheat
flour is a problem in baking.
It doesn't create gluten
as well as white flour,
which means
it has poorer texture.
Now the three reasons for that.
Gluten doesn't exist in flour,
glutenin and gliadin,
two proteins,
that's what exists in flour.
And over time, with water,
they form gluten.
The problem is white flour has
about 90% glutenin and gliadin,
and whole-wheat flour
has about 78%,
so that's strike one.
Strike two is whole-wheat flour
also contains
a partial protein
called glutathione.
Glutathione interferes
with the formation of gluten,
that's strike two.
Strike three
is whole-wheat flour
also includes some of the bran
from the wheat.
The problem with bran
is it's sharp,
and it cuts into
the gluten strands,
which means it's harder
to form gluten.
So for those three reasons,
whole-wheat flour
is very difficult to work with
to get a great pizza dough.
So we're going
to have to come up
with some new techniques
to solve those problems.
- Okay, so this has rested
for ten minutes, Chris.
We've got a little bit
more gluten development,
now we have to finish the dough.
We're going to start
by adding two tablespoons
of extra-virgin olive oil,
and that obviously provides
some good flavor,
but also has
a tenderizing effect
on the dough.
And then I'm going to add in
one and three-quarter teaspoons
of salt.
The reason that I add these
in now, Chris,
and not in the beginning
is they actually have a tendency
to prevent hydration
of the flour
and limit gluten development
a little bit.
So now I'm going to do
the actual kneading.
We're going to do it
for about a minute.
It's going to kind of clear
the sides of the bowl.
Because this dough
is a little bit sticky,
I'm going to use some oil
on the board
and on my hands as well,
just to make it
a little bit easier.
All right, so now I'm going
to transfer it to the counter
and give it a few kneads
just to incorporate everything
and get it into
a nice tight ball.
So I'm going to transfer it
to the bowl here,
and just tightly wrap it.
What's nice about this
is also it's kind of
a make-ahead, right?
So you make this dough
on Sunday,
you can cook it off
Monday, Tuesday,
probably even Wednesday.
So I'm just going to transfer
this to the fridge.
Okay, so Chris, we're going
to start with our oven setup.
Now I've already adjusted
a top rack here
to about four and a half inches
from the broiler element,
and I put a baking stone
right on top of that.
- Whoa, whoa,
okay, hold on.
Every time I've made pizza--
and you used to tell me this--
the pizza stone's
on the bottom rack
because you get the heat
and you get the crust cooked.
You're doing the opposite.
- Right, so we've learned some
things, Chris.
We've adjusted our method
a little bit.
What you really want with pizza
is even heat on the top
and the bottom.
So what we're doing here is
really shrinking our oven space.
So we're getting good heat
from the bottom,
obviously from the stone.
We're also getting good radiant
heat off the top.
So our pizza's going to cook
at the same rate,
which is great.
And I'm going to adjust it to
the highest temperature we can,
which is 500 degrees
on this oven.
So now, Chris, we can work
on our dough.
And this is our two-day
fermented dough.
As you can see it hasn't
risen all that much.
We're going to need
to give it some time to proof
at room temperature.
So all I'm going to do
is take it out of the bowl,
and I'm going to gently
divide it in half.
And then I'm going
to just kind of gently...
- Can I ask you about gently?
Because I know that
a lot of people
once they take dough
after the first rise
and they really pound it down,
they work it hard.
And you barely touch it.
- Yeah, so gently
is really nice for this.
For one thing,
we've developed this dough
that's really nice and stretchy
and extensible.
Really roughing it up
at this point
kind of reactivates that gluten
and kind of makes it
toughen up a bit.
It's going to be a little bit
harder to work with.
Then I have some greased
plastic wrap.
I'm just going to cover this.
And conveniently,
it takes about an hour.
So while our oven preheats,
our dough is going to proof.
- Okay.
- So Chris,
we need to figure out
how we're going to top
this pizza.
I have an eight-inch
skillet here,
I'm going to start
with a quarter-cup
of extra-virgin olive oil
over medium-low heat.
Just until it starts to shimmer.
We found that tomato sauce
with the whole wheat
really clashed.
You get some kind of harsh,
bitter flavors.
so was pesto.
But out favorite was a really
intensely flavored garlic oil.
So I have two teaspoons
of minced garlic here.
I have some minced anchovy,
this is two fillets of anchovy.
You can leave this out
if you don't like anchovies,
but it doesn't really add
a lot of fishiness,
just really good meaty flavor.
I also have a half-teaspoon
of black pepper,
a half-teaspoon
of dried oregano,
and an eighth of a teaspoon
of crushed red pepper flakes
and salt.
- So this is totally different
than a regular pizza
that's because the whole wheat
has a lot of flavor,
you've got a stronger topping.
- Exactly,
it has a lot of flavor
and it just doesn't work
with the same things
that white pizza dough does.
So I'm just going to stir this
for about 30 seconds.
And that should be good.
So I'm going to transfer this
to a bowl over here.
We're going to let it cool
until we apply it to the pizza.
So Chris, we're getting close
to baking our pizza.
We have a couple more
things to do,
and one is actually to change
the temperature of the oven.
So we preheated at 500 degrees,
which is great
for the baking stone,
gets really saturated with heat,
but it's not really hot enough
to bake this pizza
the way we want to.
So what I've actually done
is switch it over to broil.
What that does is gain us
a little bit of extra heat.
So we're basically going to bake
our pizza a little bit faster.
- Okay.
- Got my dough over here,
and we've got a bowl of flour.
Just going to hit it
on both sides.
So take this to about
eight inches.
And trying to keep it
as circular as possible
in the beginning is really going
to help you in the end.
- So at this point, Chris,
I'm going to pick it up.
And I'm just using kind of
the back of my knuckles,
and gravity is the
biggest force here
just to gently stretch it.
- You know, we hired Dan
out of pizzeria UNO,
obviously you've
done this before.
- Right.
- This is really annoying
because this is hard to do.
- So it isn't
the easiest task ever,
but this dough really makes it
a lot simpler.
Like you could see I stretch it
and it kind of sits there.
But then you can
also work around the rim
and just give that
a gentle stretch.
This is roughly 12 inches,
so all I'm going to do
is transfer it over.
Then I get that final
little bit of stretch on here.
Now it's time to top.
This is the fun part.
So we've got our garlic oil
from before.
Just going to stir it up
to make sure that
stuff's distributed in there,
and I'm going to use
about half of it on this pizza.
We've got kind of an interesting
mix of stuff here.
We're going to start with basil,
and I'm just going
to lay the leaves over
the surface of the pizza.
So then I'm going to use
a couple cheeses on this pizza.
I'm going to start
with some pecorino romano,
which is finely grated.
Just a nice dusting of this.
Then next I'm going to add
grated mozzarella.
- Can I just stop here?
If you don't love mozzarella
on pizza-- I don't--
so you could just stop here
and just do it this way?
- Yeah, you absolutely could.
We have some other recipes
on the website
where we use fontina,
which is a nice melting cheese.
There's lots of ways
around the mozzarella
if you want to get away from it,
but I am going to use it today,
Chris, I'm sorry.
- I didn't say wouldn't eat it.
Let me just be clear.
- So we don't want
too much cheese,
which is going to overpower
the whole-wheat pizza
that we worked so hard
to develop.
So this is ready
to go in the oven.
- Aren't you going to burn
the cheese if the broiler's on?
- We would, Chris,
and we actually tried that
leaving the broiler on
the whole time
and it's just too hot.
So what we're going to do
is we're going to slide
the pizza in,
turn it back to 500 degrees,
and we're going to do our baking
at that temperature.
We're going to bake that pizza
for eight minutes,
which is considerably less
than what it would normally take
if we weren't using
that broiler pre-heat.
We're going to spin it
about half-way through
just to make sure it browns
evenly all over.
- Now it's time for our
Gadget Guru Lisa McManus.
- When you make pizza at home,
it tastes amazing.
But there's one step
that drives everyone crazy:
getting the pizza
onto the red hot baking stone
in the oven.
The dough is soft,
you've got all these
wonderful toppings
perfectly arranged,
but moving it
is a terrible business.
Now a pizza peel
is like a giant paddle.
You've seen them
in pizza restaurants.
Ours has an extra
innovative twist
that solves the problem
of moving the pizza.
It's called
the Super Peel by Exo,
and it combines a wooden
pizza peel with a pastry cloth.
Now you could see
that the pastry cloth
works like a conveyer belt
through this slot.
You just flour the cloth,
and then you put it
next to your pizza,
pull back on the cloth,
and it picks it right up.
When you're going
to put it in the oven,
you just put this down
on the stove,
push and there it goes.
Keeps its shape,
it looks perfect.
Now the Super Peel by Exo
is $55.95,
and it makes baking pizza
at home much easier.
I have another gadget for you.
This is an alternative
to the traditional baking stone.
It's called the Baking Steel
by Stoughton Steel.
It's a really heavy slab
of steel.
We've made pizzas
and we baked breads
on both this slab of steel
and our favorite baking stone
to compare.
And now we still this stone,
but because of the way
the heat transfers
through steel much faster
than through a stone,
the steel gave us
more oven spring.
And the bottom crust
on the steel was crisper,
and it was more deeply browned
than the stone-baked crust.
So the baking steel
by Stoughton Steel is $72,
and for home pizza chefs
it can make a big difference.
- This is a very good day here
at the test kitchen.
- It is, right?
- This is impressive.
- It smells good, looks good.
- Smells good, looks great.
- All right,
so well before we eat it, Chris,
I'm going to make you wait
just a tiny bit longer.
We're only going to let it sit
here about five minutes.
And during that time I'm going
to add our final cheese.
So this is some whole-milk
ricotta.
If you add it early on
in the process when it's baking,
it really dries out.
This is going to provide
some good contrast
to that really intense
garlic oil.
So we're just going
to let this sit for a minute
and then we'll eat.
- Oh boy, this looks good.
Oh...
It's got the chew, it's airy,
but it's also got
a tremendous amount of flavor.
I love the topping.
So great whole-wheat pizza
starts with a lot
of whole wheat flour; 60%,
And extra water because that
allows the gluten to develop.
The big secret
was a long time in the fridge,
18 hours up to two days.
A lot of time for that gluten
to get developed
for great texture.
The other big secret
was the oven,
which needed to be preheated
for an hour at 500 degrees,
the pizza stone
at the top of the oven.
And then ten minutes
with the broiler on
to super heat that stone.
So the entire pizza cooks
in just eight minutes.
So there you have it,
from America's Test Kitchen
to your kitchen,
a fabulous recipe
for whole-wheat pizza from Dan,
the pizza man.
- That's my new name.
- That's your new name.
- Back in the 1980s,
I remember the first time
I ate goat cheese.
It was from Laura Chenel,
who had a farm
out in California,
also at Chez Panisse
in Berkeley.
It was a new thing.
I wasn't sure if I was going
to like it or not,
turns out that I did.
30 years later we're here
tasting goat cheese.
It's on every menu in America.
- Yeah, they're actually making
goat cheese now
in 43 different states,
including Hawaii.
So we have both imports
from France,
which of course back
in the '80s that's where
they were all coming from,
for the most part,
and lots of domestic ones.
Flavors range from
sort of light and lemony
to downright gamey
and barnyardy.
Textures are really interesting.
Some of them are really,
really creamy
and some of them
are like spackle
and really grainy and chalky.
We did the tasting
you're doing here
straight from the package,
but then we also did
baked goat cheese rounds.
We found that some of the ones
that were creamy
became chalky
when they were baked.
And it turns out that
it's all about the salt level.
In addition to providing flavor,
salt helps the proteins
hold onto moisture.
So that's texture,
which we thought
was really interesting
because as I say,
you know when you get
the goat cheese
kind of sticking
to the roof of your mouth.
- Like this?
- Yes, like that, Chris, it's
really not that appealing.
Flavor's really interesting
because we thought,
oh, why are some of them
really, really, really gamey
and others seemed like they've
got very little flavor?
And interestingly,
we found that goat cheese
comes from the nanny goats,
but you do need
at least one billy goat around.
But if the billy goat
is too close,
he gives off
such a powerful scent.
- They do.
- That the hormone levels
in the female goats goes way up.
And that produces
a kind of gamey flavor
in the milk and in the cheese.
And so being very careful
about where those boy goats
are hanging out,
and keeping them far away
from the girls
except for those few moments
when we need the boys
to make goat cheese.
- Well, the expression
"horny as a goat"
actually is a very true
expression.
(chuckles)
- I'm not going to ask
how you know that, Chris.
- I know from
personal experience.
- All right, well maybe we
should get back to the tasting.
(chuckles)
Anything that you are liking,
anything that you're not liking?
You said one sample seemed
very whipped and foamy to you.
Any other comments?
- This is, I don't know,
this is very whipped and weird.
It's like it's not
even goat cheese.
It could be a nice spread
or something.
This is spackly.
These two seem
like they actually,
you know came out of a goat
at one time.
- So you've narrowed it down
to two.
- This is a little gummier
than that.
It does have a little bitterness
to it, the aftertaste.
This is a little creamier.
It doesn't look different,
but...
I pick this.
This is a little bit creamier,
a little more lemony.
So I would say this.
I don't know what this is.
This came out of a factory,
not a goat.
This is spackly.
These two were closer.
This is not quite as creamy,
it has a slight bitter edge
to it.
I would say this
is slightly brighter tasting
and slightly creamier.
- Let's start with what
you liked.
- Voila.
- And you agreed
with the tasting panel.
The Laura Chenel
from northern California,
the one you had 30-odd years ago
was the tasting panel's
favorite.
It had great texture,
nice middle of the road flavor,
it wasn't too bland,
but it wasn't too gamey.
It's a great choice.
- This was my second choice.
- Surprising.
This is from New York,
Coach Farm.
This was our least favorite.
We thought the texture
on this one
was pretty spackly and chalky.
You seem not to object to the
texture too much on this one.
- I thought it's better
than that.
I mean this one I thought
was much spacklier.
- This is from France.
This was the top graded
of the French cheeses,
came in number three overall,
Chevrion.
Thought it had a little bit
more personality,
which you can either like
or dislike.
- And this is the whipped cheese
product.
What is this?
- This is from Pennsylvania,
despite the name, Chavrie,
which sounds like
it might be coming from France,
but it's not.
It was sixth place overall,
it was an okay choice.
It did seem like a strong flavor
and you picked up
on a texture that seemed
awfully light and fluffy.
- So our winner
in the goat cheese tasting
was from California,
Laura Chenel.
It beat out France
and also New York state.
- Everybody loves
grilled cheese sandwiches.
They're an American classic.
And everybody knows
how to make them.
You take some American cheese,
put it between
two slices of bread,
a pan with some butter,
toast both sides,
grilled cheese.
But we're here in the kitchen
today to do a taste test
to see if people might prefer
a more grown up version
of grilled cheese.
When you were growing up,
Annie,
did you eat
grilled cheese sandwiches?
- I did.
- And do you make them today?
- Yes.
- And how do you make them?
- It make them with cheddar
or whatever's cheap
at the store.
- All right, so we have
two grilled cheese sandwiches
here today.
We want you to taste
the two of them
and tell us which one you like
and what you like about it.
- Great.
- Tastes like ones my mom
used to make.
- Right.
- This one tastes like the one
I ate growing up.
- Okay, it tastes
like your basic
good old fashioned
grilled cheese sandwich.
- Not impressed?
- No.
- I like that one
for the crispiness,
but I'm not as wild
about the cheese.
- Okay.
Number two.
- That's the winner.
Far and away.
- Mm... mm-hmm.
- Yeah, I would definitely
go for the second one.
- That certainly tastes
a little bit more sophisticated.
The toast is also great on that
and just absolutely delicious.
I think I would prefer this one.
- I like that one better.
That has a bit more complex
cheese taste to it.
Slightly more acidic, I think.
Very interesting, I like it.
- Well, this one is the
classic American cheese,
and this is our grown up
grilled cheese sandwich.
- Wow.
- If you were going to make
a grilled cheese sandwich today,
would you spend an extra
five or ten minutes
making this one
as opposed to this one?
- Absolutely.
- Certainly.
- I would definitely
spend more time.
- The flavor was definitely
worth it for me.
- So obviously,
America's ready
for a more grown up
grilled cheese sandwich.
So let's go in the kitchen
and see how to make
the very best
grilled cheese sandwich.
- Just a little bit
about a personal biography.
- Okay.
- I'm from Vermont,
and for hundreds of years
people have been eating
grilled cheese sandwiches
in Vermont,
and they're perfectly happy
with their grilled cheese
sandwiches.
- Sure.
- So I'm here today,
and you're telling me,
I think,
that we need to dress up,
"fix" the grilled cheese
sandwich.
- Well, you know,
grilled cheese sandwiches
doesn't need to be fixed up,
but why not go
for the ultimate
grilled cheese sandwich?
One that has lots of aged
cheddar flavor.
You're from Vermont, you know
all about aged cheddar.
Well, the problem
with cooking with aged cheddar,
any time you try to melt it,
it doesn't have
a lot of moisture in it.
As it ages, it loses moisture
like most of us.
So as you go to melt it,
it starts to break apart.
It can be a little bit grainy.
Now, this is seven ounces
of cheddar,
and I just want
to finish cutting this
into about 24 pieces.
Again, that's just so that
it breaks down easily
in the food processor.
Because we want to have
a meltier cheese
one that melts very nicely,
we're putting in
two ounces of brie.
Now brie is obviously
it's a great melting cheese,
it's made for melting,
but it has good flavor too.
Of course we removed the rind.
I also mentioned that cheddar
loses its moisture.
So we want to add some back in
to make a nice cheese spread.
Why not use wine?
This is two tablespoons
of dry white wine.
All right,
so let's just process this.
It's going to take
about 30 seconds,
and of course if I need
to scrape down the sides
I'll do that.
All right,
so we're not done yet.
Here's an opportunity to add
more flavors right in here,
and this is four teaspoons
of minced shallot.
Just going to pulse this.
And that's all she wrote.
I've got a 12-inch
nonstick skillet.
If you could heat that up
over medium heat.
We're going to heat this
for two minutes.
And that's a pretty long
heating period
for especially a dry pan.
But what we found was that
if we tried to heat it
too quickly we ended up
with a bunch of hot spots
in the pan.
So nice slow even heating
is perfect.
This is three tablespoons
of unsalted softened butter.
We're going to just doll it up
with a little bit
of Dijon mustard.
And we're using pretty hearty
white sandwich bread.
You don't want to use
the kind that tears very easily.
So I'm going to go ahead
and coat the outside
of four slices of bread
with the butter.
Now I'm going to flip over
two of these.
These will be the bottom.
And we'll go ahead and start
spreading our cheese spread
right on the bread.
And we are not wimping out here.
We're using quite a bit.
- This would make
a great promotional video
for the Wisconsin Dairy Board,
have you ever thought
about that?
- Oh yeah.
I am available just in general.
We'll go ahead and place these
right on top.
All right, that's those
two sandwiches done.
I'll do the same with the rest
of the bread.
- So Bridget mentioned earlier
that it's hard to melt
a very aged cheese
like aged cheddar
and here's the reason.
A fresh cheese
is about 80% moisture
and as it ages over time
it gets down to about 35%.
Well, why is that an issue?
Well, it's an issue
because cheese is made up
of protein,
mostly casein molecules.
There's a lot of water
in the cheese.
You could heat up the cheese
in a fairly low temperature
and it will melt,
and that will not cause
coagulation or graininess.
The problem is over time,
as more water leaves the cheese,
those casein molecules bond
more tightly together
and you need more heat
to break them apart
to cause a flowing sauce
or cheese.
That means you are more likely
to get a grainy texture
and coagulation,
so we added some brie.
That means the melting point
goes down and you get
a smoother sauce
and it doesn't coagulate.
- All right, so the four
sandwiches are ready to cook.
We're going to cook them
two at a time,
and the pan is ready.
It's been heating
about two minutes.
So we'll put in our first
two sandwiches.
Mm...
So we're going to cook these
for about six to nine minutes
each side.
And I do want to turn
the heat down to medium low
so it's a nice lower heat.
It's going to dry the bread
just a little bit,
get it nice and toasted,
but colored evenly.
I think it's pretty
well-colored,
and you can see that
beautiful color.
Oh, look at that.
That is nice and crisp.
- Yes, yes it is nice and crisp.
It looks great.
- These are ready to flip.
Another six or so minutes
on that second side.
All right, so I think
the second side is well-colored,
it's beautiful.
All right.
So just take this out.
Now these, believe it or not,
have to sit
for about two minutes
before we can tuck into them.
We want that cheese to set up
just a little bit
so that it doesn't ooze out
as we bite into it.
So these are cool enough.
There you go, Chris.
Oh, gooey and gooey.
Mm...
Oh...
(chuckles)
- And the proud state
of Vermont votes
for the new gourmet
grilled cheese sandwich.
- There you go.
- So a great
grilled cheese sandwich
starts with aged cheddar,
but we mixed in some brie
in a food processor,
a little bit of shallot.
And then we used butter
and mustard on the bread,
and this is a sandwich bread.
And then it's
six to nine minutes a side
on a nonstick skillet.
So from America's Test Kitchen
to your kitchen,
I think a new and improved
version of--
I didn't believe it at first--
great grilled cheese sandwich.
You can get this recipe,
all the recipes
from this season,
watch selected episodes,
get our tastings and testings
- Thanks.
- You always win.
- I do always win.
of Cook's Illustrated magazine,
it's America's Test Kitchen
with your host
Christopher Kimball,
featuring Test Kitchen chefs
Julia Collin Davison,
Bridget Lancaster,
Becky Hays,
with Adam Ried
in the Equipment Corner
and Jack Bishop
in the Tasting Lab.
Discover the secrets
of America's foremost
food testers and tasters,
today on America's Test Kitchen.
- Today on
America's Test Kitchen,
Dan shows Chris how to make
a great thin-crust
whole-wheat pizza at home.
And Gadget Guru Lisa reveals
her favorite pizza tools.
Next, Jack challenges Chris
to a tasting of goat cheese.
And finally,
Bridget uncovers the secrets
to the ultimate grown-up
grilled cheese sandwich
with cheddar and shallot.
That's all right here,
on America's Test Kitchen.
- Walk in to virtually
any supermarket
and buy something
labeled whole wheat
and it has probably a mere
dusting of whole wheat flour.
Whether it's pasta,
it's bread that looks
just like white bread
or even "whole-wheat pizza,"
which is mostly
all-purpose flour.
Now we wanted the full flavor
of whole-wheat flour,
but without the tough
thin crust.
So let's head into
the test kitchen with Dan
to make a whole-wheat pizza
that has big flavor,
but also has great
chewy texture.
- Here's a question I get
all the time from our viewers.
And I'm going to ask you
the same question.
"Ever wonder how Chris Kimball
stays so skinny
when tasting all of that
luxurious food?"
And my slightly sardonic answer
is I chose my parents carefully.
It's purely genetic,
but you're also skinny.
So I thought I'd ask you.
- Well, we have
the same parents.
- We're brothers,
can't you tell?
Okay, good answer.
- Yeah.
- So whole-wheat pizza has got
lots of problems.
It turns up dense,
it's not chewy,
you don't get big air bubbles
in it.
It actually sounds
like a horrible idea.
- You know, whole-wheat flour
can produce
a lot of good flavor.
You know, we find that
in rustic breads a lot
that there's a trend towards
adding whole wheat,
so it can be a good thing.
With pizza we're really into
the texture of it.
It needs to be chewy
and have a nice
kind of airy quality to it.
So there's a little bit more
work involved in it.
First thing we need to look at
was how much whole wheat
we're going to use.
You could find recipes out there
that use 100% whole wheat,
but the texture's really bad,
you know
and the flavor's
a little bit overwhelming.
On the other hand,
you find store-bought stuff
that has just a smattering
of whole wheat in it
and it doesn't really taste
like anything.
So we wanted to use a lot,
we ended up with 60%
whole-wheat flour.
Using my food processor here
we've got one and a half cups
of whole-wheat flour.
Now we need to balance that
with something
that has enough gluten
potential,
so we're going to use
white flour.
And we're actually using
King Arthur bread flour.
Bread flour has more protein
than all-purpose flour,
and King Arthur
is especially high in protein.
So there's more potential
for gluten development.
That's going to give us
more of that airy, lofty quality
that we want in pizza.
We're using
three-quarters of a teaspoon
of instant rapid-rise yeast.
And then next I'm going
to add some honey.
This is a couple teaspoons
of honey.
That's our sweetener of choice
in this case
because it's going to provide
really good browning.
So I'm going to pop
my lid on here,
and I'm just going to kind of
pulse this together,
just make sure
it's evenly distributed.
So next we have to add
our water.
Now, we're using
the food processor,
which is great.
It's much faster
than a stand mixer.
Stand mixer would probably take
eight to nine minutes
to mix this dough.
We can do this
in about a minute.
One of the downsides of it
is that it has
a really fast-moving blade,
so it produces
a lot of friction
and a lot of heat.
So you really have to be careful
when you're working with that,
so this is ice water.
So what I'm going to do
is with my machine running,
I'm just going to pour this in
until a dough forms.
I'm using a cup
and a quarter of water.
We're going to let this rest
for about ten minutes.
- So as Dan said, whole-wheat
flour is a problem in baking.
It doesn't create gluten
as well as white flour,
which means
it has poorer texture.
Now the three reasons for that.
Gluten doesn't exist in flour,
glutenin and gliadin,
two proteins,
that's what exists in flour.
And over time, with water,
they form gluten.
The problem is white flour has
about 90% glutenin and gliadin,
and whole-wheat flour
has about 78%,
so that's strike one.
Strike two is whole-wheat flour
also contains
a partial protein
called glutathione.
Glutathione interferes
with the formation of gluten,
that's strike two.
Strike three
is whole-wheat flour
also includes some of the bran
from the wheat.
The problem with bran
is it's sharp,
and it cuts into
the gluten strands,
which means it's harder
to form gluten.
So for those three reasons,
whole-wheat flour
is very difficult to work with
to get a great pizza dough.
So we're going
to have to come up
with some new techniques
to solve those problems.
- Okay, so this has rested
for ten minutes, Chris.
We've got a little bit
more gluten development,
now we have to finish the dough.
We're going to start
by adding two tablespoons
of extra-virgin olive oil,
and that obviously provides
some good flavor,
but also has
a tenderizing effect
on the dough.
And then I'm going to add in
one and three-quarter teaspoons
of salt.
The reason that I add these
in now, Chris,
and not in the beginning
is they actually have a tendency
to prevent hydration
of the flour
and limit gluten development
a little bit.
So now I'm going to do
the actual kneading.
We're going to do it
for about a minute.
It's going to kind of clear
the sides of the bowl.
Because this dough
is a little bit sticky,
I'm going to use some oil
on the board
and on my hands as well,
just to make it
a little bit easier.
All right, so now I'm going
to transfer it to the counter
and give it a few kneads
just to incorporate everything
and get it into
a nice tight ball.
So I'm going to transfer it
to the bowl here,
and just tightly wrap it.
What's nice about this
is also it's kind of
a make-ahead, right?
So you make this dough
on Sunday,
you can cook it off
Monday, Tuesday,
probably even Wednesday.
So I'm just going to transfer
this to the fridge.
Okay, so Chris, we're going
to start with our oven setup.
Now I've already adjusted
a top rack here
to about four and a half inches
from the broiler element,
and I put a baking stone
right on top of that.
- Whoa, whoa,
okay, hold on.
Every time I've made pizza--
and you used to tell me this--
the pizza stone's
on the bottom rack
because you get the heat
and you get the crust cooked.
You're doing the opposite.
- Right, so we've learned some
things, Chris.
We've adjusted our method
a little bit.
What you really want with pizza
is even heat on the top
and the bottom.
So what we're doing here is
really shrinking our oven space.
So we're getting good heat
from the bottom,
obviously from the stone.
We're also getting good radiant
heat off the top.
So our pizza's going to cook
at the same rate,
which is great.
And I'm going to adjust it to
the highest temperature we can,
which is 500 degrees
on this oven.
So now, Chris, we can work
on our dough.
And this is our two-day
fermented dough.
As you can see it hasn't
risen all that much.
We're going to need
to give it some time to proof
at room temperature.
So all I'm going to do
is take it out of the bowl,
and I'm going to gently
divide it in half.
And then I'm going
to just kind of gently...
- Can I ask you about gently?
Because I know that
a lot of people
once they take dough
after the first rise
and they really pound it down,
they work it hard.
And you barely touch it.
- Yeah, so gently
is really nice for this.
For one thing,
we've developed this dough
that's really nice and stretchy
and extensible.
Really roughing it up
at this point
kind of reactivates that gluten
and kind of makes it
toughen up a bit.
It's going to be a little bit
harder to work with.
Then I have some greased
plastic wrap.
I'm just going to cover this.
And conveniently,
it takes about an hour.
So while our oven preheats,
our dough is going to proof.
- Okay.
- So Chris,
we need to figure out
how we're going to top
this pizza.
I have an eight-inch
skillet here,
I'm going to start
with a quarter-cup
of extra-virgin olive oil
over medium-low heat.
Just until it starts to shimmer.
We found that tomato sauce
with the whole wheat
really clashed.
You get some kind of harsh,
bitter flavors.
so was pesto.
But out favorite was a really
intensely flavored garlic oil.
So I have two teaspoons
of minced garlic here.
I have some minced anchovy,
this is two fillets of anchovy.
You can leave this out
if you don't like anchovies,
but it doesn't really add
a lot of fishiness,
just really good meaty flavor.
I also have a half-teaspoon
of black pepper,
a half-teaspoon
of dried oregano,
and an eighth of a teaspoon
of crushed red pepper flakes
and salt.
- So this is totally different
than a regular pizza
that's because the whole wheat
has a lot of flavor,
you've got a stronger topping.
- Exactly,
it has a lot of flavor
and it just doesn't work
with the same things
that white pizza dough does.
So I'm just going to stir this
for about 30 seconds.
And that should be good.
So I'm going to transfer this
to a bowl over here.
We're going to let it cool
until we apply it to the pizza.
So Chris, we're getting close
to baking our pizza.
We have a couple more
things to do,
and one is actually to change
the temperature of the oven.
So we preheated at 500 degrees,
which is great
for the baking stone,
gets really saturated with heat,
but it's not really hot enough
to bake this pizza
the way we want to.
So what I've actually done
is switch it over to broil.
What that does is gain us
a little bit of extra heat.
So we're basically going to bake
our pizza a little bit faster.
- Okay.
- Got my dough over here,
and we've got a bowl of flour.
Just going to hit it
on both sides.
So take this to about
eight inches.
And trying to keep it
as circular as possible
in the beginning is really going
to help you in the end.
- So at this point, Chris,
I'm going to pick it up.
And I'm just using kind of
the back of my knuckles,
and gravity is the
biggest force here
just to gently stretch it.
- You know, we hired Dan
out of pizzeria UNO,
obviously you've
done this before.
- Right.
- This is really annoying
because this is hard to do.
- So it isn't
the easiest task ever,
but this dough really makes it
a lot simpler.
Like you could see I stretch it
and it kind of sits there.
But then you can
also work around the rim
and just give that
a gentle stretch.
This is roughly 12 inches,
so all I'm going to do
is transfer it over.
Then I get that final
little bit of stretch on here.
Now it's time to top.
This is the fun part.
So we've got our garlic oil
from before.
Just going to stir it up
to make sure that
stuff's distributed in there,
and I'm going to use
about half of it on this pizza.
We've got kind of an interesting
mix of stuff here.
We're going to start with basil,
and I'm just going
to lay the leaves over
the surface of the pizza.
So then I'm going to use
a couple cheeses on this pizza.
I'm going to start
with some pecorino romano,
which is finely grated.
Just a nice dusting of this.
Then next I'm going to add
grated mozzarella.
- Can I just stop here?
If you don't love mozzarella
on pizza-- I don't--
so you could just stop here
and just do it this way?
- Yeah, you absolutely could.
We have some other recipes
on the website
where we use fontina,
which is a nice melting cheese.
There's lots of ways
around the mozzarella
if you want to get away from it,
but I am going to use it today,
Chris, I'm sorry.
- I didn't say wouldn't eat it.
Let me just be clear.
- So we don't want
too much cheese,
which is going to overpower
the whole-wheat pizza
that we worked so hard
to develop.
So this is ready
to go in the oven.
- Aren't you going to burn
the cheese if the broiler's on?
- We would, Chris,
and we actually tried that
leaving the broiler on
the whole time
and it's just too hot.
So what we're going to do
is we're going to slide
the pizza in,
turn it back to 500 degrees,
and we're going to do our baking
at that temperature.
We're going to bake that pizza
for eight minutes,
which is considerably less
than what it would normally take
if we weren't using
that broiler pre-heat.
We're going to spin it
about half-way through
just to make sure it browns
evenly all over.
- Now it's time for our
Gadget Guru Lisa McManus.
- When you make pizza at home,
it tastes amazing.
But there's one step
that drives everyone crazy:
getting the pizza
onto the red hot baking stone
in the oven.
The dough is soft,
you've got all these
wonderful toppings
perfectly arranged,
but moving it
is a terrible business.
Now a pizza peel
is like a giant paddle.
You've seen them
in pizza restaurants.
Ours has an extra
innovative twist
that solves the problem
of moving the pizza.
It's called
the Super Peel by Exo,
and it combines a wooden
pizza peel with a pastry cloth.
Now you could see
that the pastry cloth
works like a conveyer belt
through this slot.
You just flour the cloth,
and then you put it
next to your pizza,
pull back on the cloth,
and it picks it right up.
When you're going
to put it in the oven,
you just put this down
on the stove,
push and there it goes.
Keeps its shape,
it looks perfect.
Now the Super Peel by Exo
is $55.95,
and it makes baking pizza
at home much easier.
I have another gadget for you.
This is an alternative
to the traditional baking stone.
It's called the Baking Steel
by Stoughton Steel.
It's a really heavy slab
of steel.
We've made pizzas
and we baked breads
on both this slab of steel
and our favorite baking stone
to compare.
And now we still this stone,
but because of the way
the heat transfers
through steel much faster
than through a stone,
the steel gave us
more oven spring.
And the bottom crust
on the steel was crisper,
and it was more deeply browned
than the stone-baked crust.
So the baking steel
by Stoughton Steel is $72,
and for home pizza chefs
it can make a big difference.
- This is a very good day here
at the test kitchen.
- It is, right?
- This is impressive.
- It smells good, looks good.
- Smells good, looks great.
- All right,
so well before we eat it, Chris,
I'm going to make you wait
just a tiny bit longer.
We're only going to let it sit
here about five minutes.
And during that time I'm going
to add our final cheese.
So this is some whole-milk
ricotta.
If you add it early on
in the process when it's baking,
it really dries out.
This is going to provide
some good contrast
to that really intense
garlic oil.
So we're just going
to let this sit for a minute
and then we'll eat.
- Oh boy, this looks good.
Oh...
It's got the chew, it's airy,
but it's also got
a tremendous amount of flavor.
I love the topping.
So great whole-wheat pizza
starts with a lot
of whole wheat flour; 60%,
And extra water because that
allows the gluten to develop.
The big secret
was a long time in the fridge,
18 hours up to two days.
A lot of time for that gluten
to get developed
for great texture.
The other big secret
was the oven,
which needed to be preheated
for an hour at 500 degrees,
the pizza stone
at the top of the oven.
And then ten minutes
with the broiler on
to super heat that stone.
So the entire pizza cooks
in just eight minutes.
So there you have it,
from America's Test Kitchen
to your kitchen,
a fabulous recipe
for whole-wheat pizza from Dan,
the pizza man.
- That's my new name.
- That's your new name.
- Back in the 1980s,
I remember the first time
I ate goat cheese.
It was from Laura Chenel,
who had a farm
out in California,
also at Chez Panisse
in Berkeley.
It was a new thing.
I wasn't sure if I was going
to like it or not,
turns out that I did.
30 years later we're here
tasting goat cheese.
It's on every menu in America.
- Yeah, they're actually making
goat cheese now
in 43 different states,
including Hawaii.
So we have both imports
from France,
which of course back
in the '80s that's where
they were all coming from,
for the most part,
and lots of domestic ones.
Flavors range from
sort of light and lemony
to downright gamey
and barnyardy.
Textures are really interesting.
Some of them are really,
really creamy
and some of them
are like spackle
and really grainy and chalky.
We did the tasting
you're doing here
straight from the package,
but then we also did
baked goat cheese rounds.
We found that some of the ones
that were creamy
became chalky
when they were baked.
And it turns out that
it's all about the salt level.
In addition to providing flavor,
salt helps the proteins
hold onto moisture.
So that's texture,
which we thought
was really interesting
because as I say,
you know when you get
the goat cheese
kind of sticking
to the roof of your mouth.
- Like this?
- Yes, like that, Chris, it's
really not that appealing.
Flavor's really interesting
because we thought,
oh, why are some of them
really, really, really gamey
and others seemed like they've
got very little flavor?
And interestingly,
we found that goat cheese
comes from the nanny goats,
but you do need
at least one billy goat around.
But if the billy goat
is too close,
he gives off
such a powerful scent.
- They do.
- That the hormone levels
in the female goats goes way up.
And that produces
a kind of gamey flavor
in the milk and in the cheese.
And so being very careful
about where those boy goats
are hanging out,
and keeping them far away
from the girls
except for those few moments
when we need the boys
to make goat cheese.
- Well, the expression
"horny as a goat"
actually is a very true
expression.
(chuckles)
- I'm not going to ask
how you know that, Chris.
- I know from
personal experience.
- All right, well maybe we
should get back to the tasting.
(chuckles)
Anything that you are liking,
anything that you're not liking?
You said one sample seemed
very whipped and foamy to you.
Any other comments?
- This is, I don't know,
this is very whipped and weird.
It's like it's not
even goat cheese.
It could be a nice spread
or something.
This is spackly.
These two seem
like they actually,
you know came out of a goat
at one time.
- So you've narrowed it down
to two.
- This is a little gummier
than that.
It does have a little bitterness
to it, the aftertaste.
This is a little creamier.
It doesn't look different,
but...
I pick this.
This is a little bit creamier,
a little more lemony.
So I would say this.
I don't know what this is.
This came out of a factory,
not a goat.
This is spackly.
These two were closer.
This is not quite as creamy,
it has a slight bitter edge
to it.
I would say this
is slightly brighter tasting
and slightly creamier.
- Let's start with what
you liked.
- Voila.
- And you agreed
with the tasting panel.
The Laura Chenel
from northern California,
the one you had 30-odd years ago
was the tasting panel's
favorite.
It had great texture,
nice middle of the road flavor,
it wasn't too bland,
but it wasn't too gamey.
It's a great choice.
- This was my second choice.
- Surprising.
This is from New York,
Coach Farm.
This was our least favorite.
We thought the texture
on this one
was pretty spackly and chalky.
You seem not to object to the
texture too much on this one.
- I thought it's better
than that.
I mean this one I thought
was much spacklier.
- This is from France.
This was the top graded
of the French cheeses,
came in number three overall,
Chevrion.
Thought it had a little bit
more personality,
which you can either like
or dislike.
- And this is the whipped cheese
product.
What is this?
- This is from Pennsylvania,
despite the name, Chavrie,
which sounds like
it might be coming from France,
but it's not.
It was sixth place overall,
it was an okay choice.
It did seem like a strong flavor
and you picked up
on a texture that seemed
awfully light and fluffy.
- So our winner
in the goat cheese tasting
was from California,
Laura Chenel.
It beat out France
and also New York state.
- Everybody loves
grilled cheese sandwiches.
They're an American classic.
And everybody knows
how to make them.
You take some American cheese,
put it between
two slices of bread,
a pan with some butter,
toast both sides,
grilled cheese.
But we're here in the kitchen
today to do a taste test
to see if people might prefer
a more grown up version
of grilled cheese.
When you were growing up,
Annie,
did you eat
grilled cheese sandwiches?
- I did.
- And do you make them today?
- Yes.
- And how do you make them?
- It make them with cheddar
or whatever's cheap
at the store.
- All right, so we have
two grilled cheese sandwiches
here today.
We want you to taste
the two of them
and tell us which one you like
and what you like about it.
- Great.
- Tastes like ones my mom
used to make.
- Right.
- This one tastes like the one
I ate growing up.
- Okay, it tastes
like your basic
good old fashioned
grilled cheese sandwich.
- Not impressed?
- No.
- I like that one
for the crispiness,
but I'm not as wild
about the cheese.
- Okay.
Number two.
- That's the winner.
Far and away.
- Mm... mm-hmm.
- Yeah, I would definitely
go for the second one.
- That certainly tastes
a little bit more sophisticated.
The toast is also great on that
and just absolutely delicious.
I think I would prefer this one.
- I like that one better.
That has a bit more complex
cheese taste to it.
Slightly more acidic, I think.
Very interesting, I like it.
- Well, this one is the
classic American cheese,
and this is our grown up
grilled cheese sandwich.
- Wow.
- If you were going to make
a grilled cheese sandwich today,
would you spend an extra
five or ten minutes
making this one
as opposed to this one?
- Absolutely.
- Certainly.
- I would definitely
spend more time.
- The flavor was definitely
worth it for me.
- So obviously,
America's ready
for a more grown up
grilled cheese sandwich.
So let's go in the kitchen
and see how to make
the very best
grilled cheese sandwich.
- Just a little bit
about a personal biography.
- Okay.
- I'm from Vermont,
and for hundreds of years
people have been eating
grilled cheese sandwiches
in Vermont,
and they're perfectly happy
with their grilled cheese
sandwiches.
- Sure.
- So I'm here today,
and you're telling me,
I think,
that we need to dress up,
"fix" the grilled cheese
sandwich.
- Well, you know,
grilled cheese sandwiches
doesn't need to be fixed up,
but why not go
for the ultimate
grilled cheese sandwich?
One that has lots of aged
cheddar flavor.
You're from Vermont, you know
all about aged cheddar.
Well, the problem
with cooking with aged cheddar,
any time you try to melt it,
it doesn't have
a lot of moisture in it.
As it ages, it loses moisture
like most of us.
So as you go to melt it,
it starts to break apart.
It can be a little bit grainy.
Now, this is seven ounces
of cheddar,
and I just want
to finish cutting this
into about 24 pieces.
Again, that's just so that
it breaks down easily
in the food processor.
Because we want to have
a meltier cheese
one that melts very nicely,
we're putting in
two ounces of brie.
Now brie is obviously
it's a great melting cheese,
it's made for melting,
but it has good flavor too.
Of course we removed the rind.
I also mentioned that cheddar
loses its moisture.
So we want to add some back in
to make a nice cheese spread.
Why not use wine?
This is two tablespoons
of dry white wine.
All right,
so let's just process this.
It's going to take
about 30 seconds,
and of course if I need
to scrape down the sides
I'll do that.
All right,
so we're not done yet.
Here's an opportunity to add
more flavors right in here,
and this is four teaspoons
of minced shallot.
Just going to pulse this.
And that's all she wrote.
I've got a 12-inch
nonstick skillet.
If you could heat that up
over medium heat.
We're going to heat this
for two minutes.
And that's a pretty long
heating period
for especially a dry pan.
But what we found was that
if we tried to heat it
too quickly we ended up
with a bunch of hot spots
in the pan.
So nice slow even heating
is perfect.
This is three tablespoons
of unsalted softened butter.
We're going to just doll it up
with a little bit
of Dijon mustard.
And we're using pretty hearty
white sandwich bread.
You don't want to use
the kind that tears very easily.
So I'm going to go ahead
and coat the outside
of four slices of bread
with the butter.
Now I'm going to flip over
two of these.
These will be the bottom.
And we'll go ahead and start
spreading our cheese spread
right on the bread.
And we are not wimping out here.
We're using quite a bit.
- This would make
a great promotional video
for the Wisconsin Dairy Board,
have you ever thought
about that?
- Oh yeah.
I am available just in general.
We'll go ahead and place these
right on top.
All right, that's those
two sandwiches done.
I'll do the same with the rest
of the bread.
- So Bridget mentioned earlier
that it's hard to melt
a very aged cheese
like aged cheddar
and here's the reason.
A fresh cheese
is about 80% moisture
and as it ages over time
it gets down to about 35%.
Well, why is that an issue?
Well, it's an issue
because cheese is made up
of protein,
mostly casein molecules.
There's a lot of water
in the cheese.
You could heat up the cheese
in a fairly low temperature
and it will melt,
and that will not cause
coagulation or graininess.
The problem is over time,
as more water leaves the cheese,
those casein molecules bond
more tightly together
and you need more heat
to break them apart
to cause a flowing sauce
or cheese.
That means you are more likely
to get a grainy texture
and coagulation,
so we added some brie.
That means the melting point
goes down and you get
a smoother sauce
and it doesn't coagulate.
- All right, so the four
sandwiches are ready to cook.
We're going to cook them
two at a time,
and the pan is ready.
It's been heating
about two minutes.
So we'll put in our first
two sandwiches.
Mm...
So we're going to cook these
for about six to nine minutes
each side.
And I do want to turn
the heat down to medium low
so it's a nice lower heat.
It's going to dry the bread
just a little bit,
get it nice and toasted,
but colored evenly.
I think it's pretty
well-colored,
and you can see that
beautiful color.
Oh, look at that.
That is nice and crisp.
- Yes, yes it is nice and crisp.
It looks great.
- These are ready to flip.
Another six or so minutes
on that second side.
All right, so I think
the second side is well-colored,
it's beautiful.
All right.
So just take this out.
Now these, believe it or not,
have to sit
for about two minutes
before we can tuck into them.
We want that cheese to set up
just a little bit
so that it doesn't ooze out
as we bite into it.
So these are cool enough.
There you go, Chris.
Oh, gooey and gooey.
Mm...
Oh...
(chuckles)
- And the proud state
of Vermont votes
for the new gourmet
grilled cheese sandwich.
- There you go.
- So a great
grilled cheese sandwich
starts with aged cheddar,
but we mixed in some brie
in a food processor,
a little bit of shallot.
And then we used butter
and mustard on the bread,
and this is a sandwich bread.
And then it's
six to nine minutes a side
on a nonstick skillet.
So from America's Test Kitchen
to your kitchen,
I think a new and improved
version of--
I didn't believe it at first--
great grilled cheese sandwich.
You can get this recipe,
all the recipes
from this season,
watch selected episodes,
get our tastings and testings
- Thanks.
- You always win.
- I do always win.