100 Foot Wave (2021–…): Season 2, Episode 6 - Force Majeure - full transcript

In the wake of CJ's frightening search and rescue, the surfers find themselves reflecting on the dangers of their sport.

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[TV static drones]

[bright tone]

[waves crash]

[Tibetan singing bowl ringing]

[dramatic music]

♪ ♪

As the wave
starts sucking up,

sucking up, sucking up,

there's this frozen moment
where it's drawing me up

like a rollercoaster.

Like, clink, clink,
clink, clink.

I could just see
the entire scene.

It was like I was higher
than the cliff,

and I could see
the cliff there

with all the people.

Everyone's watching this.

I feel the shadow of the lip

coming up over the back,

And I put my arm out like this
to break my fall...

and then I fall.

♪ ♪

In that moment,

the violence
knocked me into submission.

Just complete chaos...

spinning, cartwheels,
front flips, back flips.

I don't know
which way is up at all.

I'm going deeper, deeper.
Seems like forever.

And then... shh.

Goes quiet.

In that present moment,

I went through my whole
life review journey


[somber music]

It was my whole entire life
in that moment.

- Look at him.
- Gosh.

Look at him.

Like, my whole life
is there in the water.

♪ ♪

It's, like, the fear,

the love, the stress, the...
all of it.

It was all in one.

♪ ♪

[drone whirring distantly]

I mean, it felt
like five minutes went by

before the guys on the beach
said that they could spot him

way up north
in the shore break.

I come up one time,
I see Alemao.

He's coming, I'm like,
"Oh, my God, I'm saved.

Thank God."

I'm startin' to sense

something hurts in my arm,
you know?

[Jet Ski drones]
Grabs my hand,

hurts so bad I go, "Aaah!"

[muffled yelling]

When I tried to grab him,

he starts to pale.
He say, "No, no, no."

So I planned.
I go to the beach.

And I swim back

and then run to ask for him.


- [moaning]
- All right.

[indistinct chatter]


Breathe, buddy.
Breathe, buddy.

It fuckin' hurts.

We need some kind
of a splint.

Does anyone know what to do?

Don't move my arm right now.

- [moans]
- [speaking native language]

- No, no.
- [groans]

It was horrific.

That sick, like,
anxious feeling that...

like, I just saw his arm,
I was like...

- Aah!
- [speaking native language]

- Dislocated or broken?
- No, no, no, it's broken.

[moans] Don't touch it.


He was alive.

Just... that was all
that I was hoping for.

You're hurt.
You need support.

Garrett, can you give me
an update?

- [speaking native language]
- He's fine.

He broke his elbow.

We're coming down, okay?

- Let's go.
- Mm-kay.

- What, are you...
- Fuck, just...aah! Stop!

Whoa, whoa, whoa,
whoa, whoa.


I don't know exactly.

- [indistinct chatter]
- [groans]

CJ, hold on, brother.
Hold on, man.

[moody sweeping music]

♪ ♪

Just keep breathing,
a nice nasal breathing.

- Nice and slow.
- [exhales]

Three seconds in.

Ten seconds out.

♪ ♪

[indistinct chatter]
[monitor beeping]

You've got this CJ. Breathe.

Through your nose.

[siren wails]

♪ ♪

Yeah, yeah.

So what should I do, Cotty?


[engine revving]


You know, I was,
like, in shock.

I thought he was dead.
I thought he'd drowned.

You know, like, there were
seven minutes there

where I thought he drowned.

♪ ♪

It's like a fucking
car accident.

You know? It's like being...

There's so many of us
working together,

and you still lose someone.

You know? Like...

♪ ♪

Fuck. It's a fuckin'
head-fuck innit?

- Is he all right?
- Yeah.

- He's fine.
- Yeah?

- Okay.
- He's in pain, but alive.

- Happy New Year.
- That's all that matters.

You going?
I'll let you go.

- Thank you.
- Thank you.

Hey, send a big hug for CJ.

And, uh... fuck.

Too heavy.
[inhales, exhales]

[speaking English]

We were all, like,
still scared of the situation.

So, yeah,
it was really intense.

When you do
big wave surfing,

it's not a science.

You have to accept

that sometimes
she's gonna fall.

And I know
one day I will miss her.

What I didn't expect
is to miss her

on the biggest day,
on the biggest wave,

on the biggest fall
of her life.

[in English]

For sure.
Worst experience in Nazaré.


[speaking French]

I've always seen her
like a superhero.

Like, uh...

nothing can happen to her,
you know?

Like, the worst thing
happened to her and she...

she came out safe.

So, like, she's still
a superhero.


[in French]

- [chuckles]
- [sighs heavily]

[in English]

[in French]

[both chuckle]

♪ ♪

After this experience,

yeah, the first thought was,
"Okay, let's get married.

"Let's have kids.

Let's enjoy life
on a normal way."


[chuckles] Just few days.
Just few days.

And then the...

the second big wave contest
in Nazaré happened.

[scooter buzzing]

[in English]

There was a few days passed

and I get an email sayin'
the contest is on.

And I was almost over
the contest anyway.

Like, I'm over that.

The season, getting worried
about, like,

what my vision
and my goals were,

like, never really quite
really hittin' it.

I don't know, I just feel
like a bit of a kook,

and a feel a bit of, like...

I feel like kind of a joke,
you know? Like...

[continues in English]

♪ ♪

[both speaking Portuguese]

[speaking Portuguese]

♪ ♪

Uh, yeah, Justine,
we are here checking the waves.

But the current is, like,
really big and really bumpy.

The waves are really messy.

So, yeah, let me know

what are your plans
for tomorrow.

Let me know.

[continues in English]

[soft music]

[in English]

- Ah. Everything okay?
- Yeah. And you?

- Yeah.
- You know what?

- It's scary, but in fact...
- It's part of the game.

Yeah. Wipeout and everything

- and...[sighs]
- It's part of the game.

It's part of the game, eh?

The first thing
that I was thinking about,

it was, like,
first, having a rest,

but then going
back to the water

and being able
to surf a wave again.

So we did that with Tony.

It's kind of breaking the ice,
you know?

I didn't want to go out, no.

You say, like, "Yeah, let's go
for a tow session."

And I'm like,
"Yeah, okay, we can go,

but I'm just going to drive.
Like, I don't want to surf."

You're sure, Tony, yeah?
You're sure?

- No.
- Oh là là.

Tony and I,
we were nervous for sure.

♪ ♪

[continues in English]

I was still, like, scared,

but I was with Justine.
I was with Fred.

I was...my father
on the cliff,

so I felt kind of safe.

[Jet Ski drones]

♪ ♪

She was the one that helped me
to overcome that fear

and that trauma.

[continues in English]

- Yeah.
- Yeah.

♪ ♪

[whistle blows]


I'm happy because I know
that it was a tough winter,

but it was important.
Like, you need to have

this time
that you are thinking a lot,

that you are questioning yourself

to know
exactly what you want to do

and how you want to do

and with who
you want to do it.

So now I know
what I want to do,

with who, and how.

[indistinct chatter]

[meat sizzles]

[both speaking Portuguese]

[in English]

- Ooh, la, la.
- [chuckles]

Oh, these aren't the...

Again, hey.

[continues in English]

- Yeah? Yeah?
- Yeah, obviously.

- Sure. Like, it's okay...
- No, yeah, yeah.

- And, uh...
- Really yes. Yeah.

Finally, I'm in the contest.

And I just went, like...

You know? Mind-blowing.
Like, wha?

And you need to tell me
the truth all the time, eh?

We are, like, same level.

Like, "Oh, Justine,
you fucked up

this on the wave, on the..."

And that make me feel,
like, really happy

just like [indistinct]
not happy.

After, like,
a long time waiting,

I'm finally in the contest.

Nice. [chuckles]

- [clicks tongue] Yeah.
- Nice.

Good luck too.
Me too. Me too.

- So...
- Nice, nice, nice.

It was just
something natural.

We didn't really think
too much.

Like, uh,
he's a Portuguese kid.

He's been dreaming
of doing that contest.

Since the first year
we come here,

we've seen him
in the water evolving.

And I can do
the safety for them,

so I can still share...
share the adventure.

Ah. [chuckles]

[speaking Portuguese]

Eh, the WSL just need
the approval of Garrett.

- Of Garrett.
- Yeah.

- Okay, okay, okay.
- So you've got...

you are okay with Garrett?

- Have you seen...
- I have, yeah, yeah, yeah.


Justine told me
she really likes his driving,

so I trusted Justine.

And I was excited
to see them surf together.

[speaking Portuguese]


[birds calling]

[soft music]

♪ ♪



It's so numb.

It feels so weird.

Every time I put it up here,

it just doesn't feel
like it's mine.

What do you feel in this arm?

Mm, tingle. Like, cold...cold.

When I saw my arm
flopping around,

loose at my elbow joint,

you know,
I thought it was broken.

It ended up being dislocated,

and I was really grateful
for that.

But, damn, I realized

the seriousness
of a dislocation.


You can move this and this.

You'll not move this.
both: Yep.

He didn't walk
out of there

like, totally defeated,
you know?

He walked out of there
grateful to be alive,

grateful that it was

"just a dislocated elbow."

- I got you!
- Got you.

- Got you!
- Do you want it right there?

That was awesome.

- Sure, yeah.
- I wanna watch this.

The takeaway
of this whole experience

is why am I risking my life?
What's it for?

What am I seeking, you know?

What's the need?
Is that worth the risk?

You know,
it's not even the injury.

Forget the injury.
It's the fact that, you know,

he almost died
and was lost at sea.

That's the real trauma to me.

He didn't know
if anybody was gonna save him.

He didn't know if he was gonna
make it to the beach.

Most people
would probably have died.

What an experience.

I wasn't sure
if I could survive it.

And life brought me
to that point

of getting to see.

I didn't die, but I got to see
all the confidence

and the training and everything
I've done in my life

and, like, earn that.

♪ ♪

I'm spared by Mother Ocean,

by Yemanjá.

I have new life.
What do I do with that?

Do I keep surfing giant waves?

Is that my highest calling?

Why do I feel that I need

such an extreme circumstance

in order to feel alive?

I don't know. I don't know.

I don't know what I want.

I do care about the contest,

but I don't want to make
too much of a fuss about it.

Like, I was just
so disappointed last time.

I just needed to sort of,
like, reset a little bit.

So light winds are here,

and the strong winds
are this band here.

And Mullaghmore's
right in the middle.

That fat...look at...here.

♪ ♪

So goin' to Ireland tonight
for the swell tomorrow.

It was like a gamble,

but I was like,
"I'm goin'. I'm gonna do it."

[in English]

♪ ♪

You all right, mate?

- Nice to see you.
- How are you?

- You all right?
- Yeah. Yeah.

So this is Justine.

- Justine, hey.
- This is Taz.

[continues in English]

It's where he got
his first big wave.

♪ ♪

- Yeah, it's where me and Al...

you know,
it's where we went through

sort of thick and thin, really.

It's big.

You know, I've had, like,
some horrific wipeouts there.


Oh, my God!

But I've also had
some of my best waves...

and the best feelings
of surfing also.

[indistinct chatter]


- [yells]
- [chuckles]

So, yeah, it is
quite relevant to me.

It's where it all began.

[door rattles]

[moody music]

♪ ♪

It's such a crazy,
warp-y, boil-y thing

that goes on at Mully,

'cause you've got
this deep hole

inside the shelf,
and then it comes up

and over the shelf
and then sucks around.

♪ ♪

Get rid of the anxiety
a little bit

and then, uh, get surf,
I suppose, innit?

Just, I want it to be...
you know, you want it

to be good, don't you?

Maybe it's not anxiety.
Maybe it's nerves.

Just a bit nervous, you know?

You're chasin' the feeling

of that first wave, you know?

Like, the reason why you
fell in love with surfing.

And yeah, okay,
it's become a job

and become
something different,

but it should be just surfing.

Just riding waves
and having fun.

[sweeping music]

♪ ♪

For me to go back to Ireland,

it was almost
like I just stepped

back to, like, 2007

with just me and Al out there.
Do you know what I mean? Like...

And that's what it felt like.


When you get into that flow
with the ocean,

when you do find that rhythm

and then it sort of gels,
it's like...

it's a really, really
magical feeling.

[sweeping orchestral music]

♪ ♪

It was good to have
that feeling back.



It's just all meant to be.

Do you know what?

It actually turned
everything around.

It was just, like...

again, like, reset.

♪ ♪

And then it was like,
come back to Nazaré

for the WSL contest.

- Yo, I'm tellin' you
right now, man,

like, this is our event,
you know?

- Yeah.
- There's really nobody else

that has put in more time
on Jet Skis

and towing into waves.

Like, if we're gonna
win something,

this is a good one, you know?

Yeah. I...I totally agree. Yeah.

I'll see you
bright and early.


[bell tolling distantly]

[speaking Portuguese]



Relax the muscles now.
Relax everything.

And just think
about the breathing, okay?

You control your breath.

Now you're completely relaxed.

[seagulls calling]

[pop music plays]

So what? We got you in.
Are you happy or what?

- Yeah, finally.
- [chuckles]

- No, I-I'm stoked.
- Dave said, "What are you...

green light or..."
"I'm up."

- Thank you.
- [chuckles] Yeah.

- António Laureano.
- António.


Tony, Tony.
[overlapping chatter]

[in English]

It's weird.
Like, it's the first time.

But it feels really good.
It feels really, really good.

[light applause]

[in Portuguese]

- Good luck, huh?
- [chuckles]

- Stay safe.

- Let's go.
- See you.

- See you tomorrow.
- Good night, guys.

See you tomorrow.

[dramatic music]

♪ ♪


[murmuring] be here.

Good morning.

Good morning.

[in English]

My team was
a little flexible this year

which was a good
and a bad thing.

Partnered up with Scooby,

we did the WSL Challenge.

But then he's been stuck
at home at "Big Brother"

which is the biggest show
in Brazil.

[speaking Portuguese]

[speaking English]

We never know
what's gonna happen.

- And Kai was in Hawaii.
He was about to compete

at the World Tour event.

And it was
really unfortunate

'cause I had a major conflict,

and I couldn't come
to the second event.

You know, Lucas
and I had both won

the previous one.

[speaking Portuguese]

Try to get
a bit of inspiration

of Chumbo.

Get a bit of Chumbo in me.

- [laughs]
- Eeee.

Lucas is just a legend, man.

He's just such a caring,
nice person.

So it was such a good spirit
to tow with him.

♪ ♪

I decided, like, last minute

to ride this board
that I'd got from Ireland.

I suppose it's all about
getting into the right mindset.

- That's for you.
- Thanks, mate.

- How do you feel?
- Excited.


All the family
of Tony were there,

and we feel like this team
is a mix of two family,

and a lot of love first

and then we share
a good time in the water.

[indistinct chatter]

Tune in,
'cause the event is on.

We're in heat one.

Let's go.


♪ ♪

[light applause]

[speaking Portuguese]

Welcome to the Thunderdome.

Looks like Andrew Cotton,
gettin' one early.

Goin' the right-hand option.

- Whee!
- The second to haul went,

Will put me into crazy right.

I just...I hit flat,

and the board was just magic.

That wave was sick.

Holy moly.

[chuckles] That was Cotty.

- Of course.
- [chuckles]

And he rode it out,
which was nuts.

[speaking English]

Cotty was
in the same heat as mine.

He got some big bombs
on the right.

[speaking Portuguese]

Lucas Chianca has jumped in

to team up with Nic Von Rupp.

And I would say
that that team right there,

- very experienced...
- Whoo!

[speaking Portuguese]

- Oh. Alley-oop.
- Oh, it's... wow!

How is that gonna score?
That was nuts.

Lucas is doing those
crazy airs, and my goal

was really to try to get
big air drop

from top to bottom.

♪ ♪


Nic and you, Cotty,
are really close in the score.

It's like 0.10.

[in English]

- What?
- Yeah.

- Did we?
- Yeah.

- Did we?
- Yeah.

- You're trippin'.
- No, I am not. No.

I didn't know that.

- Cool.
- Yeah, you won.

[both chuckle]

We had no idea.

Did we win the heat,
did we?

- Yeah.
- What?

Yeah. They won the heat.

Ian Cosenza on a big wave.



The waves were awesome,

but I was focused,
like, on Michelle

'cause I knew that, okay,

like, she got the best waves
of the event.

- There goes
Michelle des Bouillons

with an attacking line in.

Michelle was going for it, deeper...

pushing it
and lookin' really good.

♪ ♪

[speaking Portuguese]


One team got a wave

and we were by ourself
on the lineup.

I was like, "Tony, you drive."

Let's prove it right away...

that you can drive
and our team is a good team.

I came from behind the peak.

I get out of the wave.

She was surfing the wave.

[epic music]

I wanted to do
kind of a little turn,

but, in fact, I saw, like,

there was three skis
on the way.

Anybody on a watercraft

can cause a wake.

And it definitely makes it
a little harder to surf.

You're looking at that wake,

trying to prepare for it.

And when she saw that,
she changed her line

to go
directly against the bumps.

[indistinct chatter]

Oh, no, no, no, no.

- Ooh!
- Ooh.

On my head, I was like,

"Wow, that's not a good way
to start the heat."

♪ ♪

I went to pick her up.

And then she just told me,

"Uhh, Tony, I think
I have a broken foot."

And I was like,

"What? Like, for real?"

I was, like,
starting to freak out.

I didn't know what to do.
And I just went like,

"Okay, Fred, let's go...
let's go to the harbor.

"Like, let's go inside.
Let's...let's go get Justine."

And Fred was like,
no, no, no, don't worry,

like, calm down.

He went to my father.



- You think a strap?
- Yeah.

[in Portuguese]

[whispering] Shit!

[somber music]

♪ ♪


It was, like, so bumpy
and I flied,

and my-my foot
stay in the straps...

- Yeah.
- And I went... fff...

So it...
[mimics bone cracking]

[in English]

[in Portuguese]

- [sniffles]
- [speaking Portuguese]

[both speaking Portuguese]

I'm not there,
but at least Tony can surf on.

It's not perfect,

It's-it's better than nothing.

[in Portuguese]

[in English]

It's okay. It's okay.

I remember saying to Susana,

"Okay, just let's do
a little video like this.

Tony will not be worried."

Tony! It's happening.
It's okay.

It's normal.
It's part of the game.

But just have fun
and surf for me.

I just tell the WSL

"Okay, we're ready with Tony."

And Ramon's coming, rushing.

It's like, "Okay, we have
Ramon doing safety."

What the fuck?
Like, let the kid surf.

There's plenty safeties.

There is, like, ten safety guys
for three guys.

Like, let's do it. Like, why?

[all in Portuguese]

[in Portuguese and English]

[both in English]

She was, like, feeling
that she-she let Tony down.

She was feeling really bad

because she broke the foot,
and I wasn't surfing.

And at the same time,
I was feeling

a little bit guilty.

Everything happened
because my fault.

[in English]

So I didn't want to cry
in front of her.

[indistinct radio chatter]

[both speaking French]

[in English]


♪ ♪

Big turn for Cotty.

Lucas first, 19.83.

Andrew second, 11 points.

[speaking Portuguese]

♪ ♪

- Another wave
for Michelle des Bouillons.

- Oh, one right.
- This is a big wave here.

♪ ♪

It seemed that the world
was, like, coming to an end.

♪ ♪

Massive wave here
for Nic Von Rupp.

That huge one.

[in Portuguese]

Cotty, you have
a chance to win

if you get on the rope,

and there's a set
coming right now.

Come on, baby, do something.


I went to take a shower.

I just lost it again

and just, like,
punching the wall

and really frustrated

with all the situation.

[all laugh]

Andrew Cotton
on the rope here.

There's not much time
left to go.

It's worth a shot.

♪ ♪

- [airhorn blares]
- Yeah, it's finished, guys.

The bullhorn.
That's the bullhorn!

[dog barks]

[in English]

I don't know.


That was fun.

At least we made
some better scores

than the last time.
[both chuckle]

[speaking Portuguese]








[indistinct chatter]

- I am.
- Good.

- [both laugh]
- Yes.

[in Portuguese]

Come on, brother.

I was really happy
to win the event.

Yeah, that was...that was
a very special day.

I feel like I put it
all on the line

and I'm very grateful

that, you know,
we came out on top.


[cheers and applause]

I've never ever placed
in any surf contest.

And I've had,
like, two seasons

of never really
quite achievin'.

Then things
finally come together

and you're movin'
in the right direction.

Yeah. Just things
work out, don't they?

That's why it's important

just to keep going,
I suppose, innit? Like...

It could have [indistinct].
You stayed?

But that's Nazaré, though.

- It's not this...yeah, mate.
- That's Nazaré.

[indistinct chatter]

[in English]

The recovery she had
after Jaws,

like, in 2018,

that was really, really hard.

Like, she told me,
"Fuck, if I get injured,

"I will never have the courage

to go through it again."

[in English]

But now I knew
where I wanted to go,

how, and with who.

She wanted to recover
maybe also for Tony.

I never seen her like that
with that energy.

And I'm stoked to see her

and I will be stoked
to help them.

We will have to wait
for the next one.


We still have a...
a lot to prove

and to do...[chuckles]

[moody bass notes]

♪ ♪

Some leashes,

one, two, three.

Tony, for me,
is like my little brother.

And I will always tell him
what I think.

He asked me, "Ah, do you think
I should go?"

And I'm like, "You should go
for the experience.

Like, go there
and you will learn."

[dramatic music]

♪ ♪

[indistinct chatter]

[in Portuguese]

♪ ♪



And then, boom,
second place.

And I was like, "Wow. Okay.

I passed the first heat."


Then semifinals...

[airhorn blares]

With that wave,
I managed to stay second.

And then I realized...
I was like,

I'm on my first final ever,

like, on the big wave contest,
you know?

I was in the last heat.

I had, like,
a really good drop,

a really good turn...

I finished the wave.

Someone went to pick me up.

He just told me,
"You're first."

And I was like, "What?"

And then I...
soon I start to hear,

like, in Spanish, like...

[triumphant music]

♪ ♪

I was on the Jet Ski
just like, "Whoa!"

Like, screaming.

Like, I won.



[indistinct chatter]


♪ ♪





♪ ♪

[all cheering]

♪ ♪

- Yeah!
- Let me look at it.

- [chuckles]
- [speaking Spanish]

- Barrel...
- Mm-hmm?

Remember we talked
about going out

- on the Jet Ski today?
- Mm-hmm.

Look. Super, super small
and glassy.

- Oh.
- Like, the best day ever.

Barrel wanted me
to tow him in Nazaré

for a while now.

I don't know if I was pushing,

but I was definitely
encouraging him to go.

Dad, I don't have
to catch a wave.

If you don't want to,
you don't have to.

I knew it was perfect size.

I knew everything
was just right.

And I knew
it was the day to take him.

Here you go. Right here.

[surfboard thuds]

It was so cute.

He jumps in the water.

And right when he touches
the water,

he's like...
"[vocalizes] It's cold."


It's cold out here.

[Lou Reed's
"This Magic Moment"]

♪ ♪

♪ This magic moment ♪

♪ ♪

♪ So different and so new ♪

♪ Was like any other ♪

♪ ♪

♪ Until I met you ♪

♪ And then it happened ♪

♪ It took me by surprise ♪

♪ I knew
that you felt it too ♪

♪ I could see it
by the look in your eyes ♪

♪ ♪

♪ Sweeter than wine ♪

♪ Softer than
a summer's night... ♪

Being there alone

and then being there
with my boy...

That was insane.

Was a very special moment.

♪ This magic moment ♪

♪ So different and so new ♪

♪ Was like any other ♪

The kid is a natural.
He's a freak.

He can ride any size wave
he wants right now pretty much.

♪ And then it happened ♪

Every wave he catches
that I put him on

and then I just watch
the whole ride

and just see him come back out

and share with me
what he just did

or the experience he just had.

I just love
taking Barrel surfing.

♪ Sweeter than wine ♪

- Got it?
- Yep.

- ♪ Ooh softer ♪
- Let me see.

I can't wait
for Theia to get into it

and then Fe.

[baby cries]

Not into the ocean.

♪ Whenever I hold
you tight ♪

Garrett's in a good place.

I'm feeling like he's
really content more than ever.

Like, he has said
he's content before,

but it wasn't real.

Now it think
he's really settling in

to being a super present dad
and husband.


Am I okay?

Yeah, I'm okay. Are you okay?

CJ's figuring things out.

Pretty good, pretty good.

Pretty good. Aaah.

That was the most I've worked
my bicep in weeks.

I think if I hadn't taken
this legendary pounding,

I don't know that I would have

earned the respect of the club.

I may have still been
Garrett's brother-in-law.

And I feel
like now I'm CJ Macias.

I realized that I get

the same heart pumping
and nervousness

for some other things,

such as, like,
having the conversation

with a loved one
that I need to have with them,

before gathering together
a group of kids who are...

who knows what they're gonna
be like, you know?

If I can be pushing
and expanding myself

in these ways
that isn't risking my life,

I'm receiving
this growth and development,

and then it's not as limited
to surfing.

I like my life.

And even though
I still experience

a lot of these turmoils,

and life is so sad sometimes,
and all these things happen,

it's beautiful too, right?

My kiss?

- Aw.
- Garrett's been sensitive

to CJ's injury
and not being pushy

or even pushing.

But he has asked him
a few times

if he was gonna go back
to Nazaré.

Garrett may be
living vicariously

- through Barrel and I.
- Everybody ready?

And we live vicariously
through him.

Two, three.

Oh, my goodness.

I'm pretty content
on the land these days.

But then when I get
back in the water,

I'm like, "How could I not
be longing for this

all day, every day?"

When we sat down to write
our goals for this next year,

at the top of the list,
his goal is to be

in the best shape
of his life by 55.

He's trying to say
it's so that he can be

helpful for me and the kids,
but I am pretty sure

it's so that he can still surf

the biggest wave in the world.

I'm doin' my best to reverse
the clock right now.

My neck's perfect.

My back is perf...my...
yeah, everything...

little pain in this shoulder,
but it's not bad.

I just wanna take Barrel

to all these
good little waves,

and if big ones show up, amazing.

I got one.

Got one! Got one!

I mean, I wanna be able
to get Barrel

till I'm 105 with Barrel.

All right.
We're gonna let him go.

He's not big enough, 'kay?

- He is small.
- Give him a kiss?

♪ ♪

- [blows raspberry]
- [chuckles]

All right.
This is the spot right here

for the big ones.

[bright tone]