100 Foot Wave (2021–…): Season 2, Episode 5 - Lost at Sea - full transcript
[TV static drones]
[bright tone]
[bell dings]
[ding]
[ding]
The mindfulness bell
just went off on my phone.
So the bell invites us
to take a mindful breath.
And one of Thích Nhat Hanh's
sutras that he says
is, "Breathing in,
I relax my mind and my body.
"Breathing out, I smile.
I know this is
a wonderful moment."
The boys are waiting. They're
probably gonna yell at me.
[jaunty music]
Is CJ like all the other
big-wave surfers at Nazaré,
or does he kind of, like,
forge a different path?
Well, CJ is isn't really
a big-wave surfer.
♪ ♪
He's definitely been
a surfer his whole life,
and he used to enter contests
back in the day,
but it was, like,
two-foot Florida.
That's what they grew up on.
Whenever CJ wants
to be out in the water,
he's phenomenal.
Like, he...
he is one
of those truly soul surfers.
I mean, I brought him
to Hawaii,
and he went to Pipeline
and got the wave
that pipeline surfers
dream of getting.
He got it
his first session out
but never went back.
He wants to have
this clear vision
and these clear goals,
but he gets so caught up
overthinking everything.
♪ ♪
I've seen two sides to CJ,
and they're like,
take it or leave it,
you know.
Like, not that bothered,
and then, like, beast mode.
I really don't know
what's his goal...
if he wants to ride
the biggest waves,
if he's being dragged
by Garrett,
if he wants to do yoga
on a surfboard...
♪ ♪
He doesn't need
to prove anything.
He's surfed waves,
he's driven Garrett,
done safety, done everything.
♪ ♪
Do you feel like CJ
has something to prove?
I think people have
no idea of who CJ is
or what he's capable of.
♪ ♪
[dramatic music]
♪ ♪
When Tony didn't compete
for the WSL events,
I was, for sure, upset
and disappointed for him.
I could tell his frustration.
[doorbell dings]
Oh, yeah, yeah.
[all greeting in French]
- We saw one swell going
to Madeira,
and we have some contacts,
and they were like,
"Hey, you guys should come.
It's gonna be a great, great
day for training, for surfing."
When Justine and Fred asked
me if I want to go with them,
I just got really happy.
Up.
Away, Papa. [laughs]
- Bye.
- Obrigado.
Bye, Papa.
[speaking Portuguese]
[Canned Heat's
"Going Up The Country"]
The trip helped me to forget
everything about the contest.
Okay, the family
is going to holidays!
♪ I'm going up the country ♪
♪ Baby, don't you wanna go? ♪
♪ I'm going up the country ♪
Big wave. Yeah, yeah.
It's gonna be the first one
of a lot of trips.
- Yeah?
- Yeah.
♪ ♪
♪ I'm going, I'm going ♪
♪ Where the water
tastes like wine ♪
♪ I'm going where the water
tastes like wine ♪
- Go see.
- Oh!
- Oh.
- Oh.
Oh la la.
Oh la la!
[laughs]
Go see. No way.
I'm in love with this.
[speaking French]
[both laugh]
♪ ♪
This is what I want to do
for the rest of my life.
To not stay always in Nazaré.
It's already the beginning
of the dream.
Like, start traveling
to surf big waves.
♪ ♪
During that contest,
it made me realize
how the good partner
is so important for me.
Like, how do you
like each other?
How do you commit?
How do you do this together?
Tony was used to surf
with his dad.
I was used to surf
with my boyfriend.
So, it was good to
spend time with him
and make me remember the
beginning of my career, too.
It's the best, the beginning
when you know nothing.
Things full of a none.
See you.
[laughter]
Surfing with her,
it's almost the same
as surfing with my father,
you know.
I don't feel pressure.
I don't feel that I'm working.
- And now.
- [laughs]
While I'm with them,
all the time,
- joke, messing around.
- Good first trip.
First big wave big boy.
I feel really
comfortable with them.
Like family.
He had a good
and positive effect on me.
He was, like, good vibes,
really good vibes.
Yeah, it was really like
a beginning of a story for us.
Yeah, I'm exciting
for the future with him.
[dog barking]
Hey.
After the baby was born,
I just have turned into
a voyeur for a while.
♪ ♪
Look at the four surfers out.
I got no desire to surf.
Nowadays, I can watch guys
get waves,
and I'm totally content.
I don't have FOMO anymore.
No, no, no!
You're gonna go
timeout again.
You're not supposed
to be screaming.
After Fe was born,
it's just...
life is completely different.
So, let's say all the sounds
in the word "at."
- At.
- T...
You know, Garrett
really settled in
and enjoyed being here
with the family.
Did you know that
Dad likes reading?
I love reading.
I do.
You know,
his priority's changing,
and, you know,
he seems really happy.
Oh.
[laughs]
But now figuring out
good partners,
good safety,
good communication...
you know, like,
it's definitely harder.
What up? Did you see
the waves before dark?
Good...yeah,
it's just smaller,
but tomorrow morning could be
potentially pretty big, so...
The last contest,
it was just such a shitshow.
You know, it was
a perfect royal go left
and then I'd ended up, like,
not going anywhere,
just going straight
and getting pounded so hard.
[wave pounds]
I just, like...felt like just
driving over my surf board.
And then, like,
I just wanted to just, like...
"Wow, I don't wanna see
these things ever again.
I hate 'em."
Check out Andrew Cotton, here.
And he'll get
absolutely blown up.
I don't wanna be remembered
for...for wiping out.
The goal is to ride, you know,
the tallest wave.
You achieve that
by being in every swell,
being healthy, and just
choosing your moments.
All right,
is CJ gonna come out?
All right.
[Pedro Paulo's "Nazaré"]
[lighter flicking]
♪ ♪
[singing in Portuguese]
[singing along]
This season,
the calling was clear
that I'm supposed to be here.
♪ Nazaré ♪
See where I kinda can fit in
and how I'm feeling.
I haven't really towed into
big waves in a while.
After that trip to Jaws
and the experience
that I had there,
feeling myself out with all
these legendary masters
of Jaws and tow surfing.
It really, like,
stoked the fire.
But yeah,
being out there with Garrett
reflects a lot of insecurities,
maybe, about worthiness
to be on the wave
'cause, well, yeah,
he's my brother-in-law; he has
to bring me out, you know.
I got a message from Garrett.
"As much
as humanly possible."
That's, like,
his favorite line.
Okay, so I'm gonna bring my wet
wetsuits over to Perfect Waves.
I'll meet you there,
and I'll change when we go.
Yeah. Tchau, tchau.
See you, buddy.
- Alemao...the master,
the captain.
You know,
when he goes out there,
I think he really sees himself
as the master,
the uncle of the lineup.
Yeah!
Alemao is one of
the best drivers, full stop.
Best tow driver,
best rescue guy.
No doubt in my mind that
if he puts me into a wave,
he's gonna come get me.
[speaking Portuguese]
Never tried
this thing before,
but I think I might want
some extra today.
- CJ.
- Yo?
[imitates ripping]
Cool, thank you.
See, that's why I hang with
the guys who know what's up.
[speaking Portuguese]
[thrilling string music]
Yeah.
[speaking Portuguese]
I love surfing with Alemao
you know, like,
'cause I can enjoy it and not
put too much pressure on it
and, you know, maybe take
a leaf out CJ's book,
and I might not take it
too seriously, you know, like...
Yeah.
[speaking Portuguese]
♪ ♪
I'm still learning,
I realized this morning.
I'm, like,
learning how to surf, still.
[laughs]
What?
- Wow.
- Pumping Friday.
- Wow.
- Pumping Saturday.
- Okay.
- Paddle, tow, paddle, tow,
paddle, tow,
get barreled.
It's amazing.
What are you gonna do,
spend the whole two weeks out
there in the water
and never come in?
- You would?
- Well, if I was maybe 21.
- Yeah, right.
- Not 42.
- Yeah.
- You know, you always
- want more.
- [laughs] Yeah.
- Want more.
- Want more.
- But when's enough enough?
- I don't know.
- When are we satisfied?
- Don't know.
I hate it, honestly.
[laughs]
I'm not a patient guy.
[laughter]
My father's like,
"Don't worry. Calm."
- Calm, calm.
- "Tranquilo."
Since the trip we did
to Medeira,
I started to spend way
more time with Justine.
I liked the idea
about teaming up with Tony.
We didn't have
that much experience
driving the ski, so we could
really, like, improve together.
- Do it? I push?
- No, no, it just...
No, no, it's okay.
You can come from the ski.
These ones are easy.
I told her that I'm really
nervous driving for you.
And she was like, "Why?"
Like, because it's you,
you know?
She just told me to, like,
drive like I know.
[breezy music]
[speaking Portuguese]
For Justine, it was
a new start because
she was feeling that I didn't
want to drive in big waves.
So it was a release for me
to let them have fun.
Perfection.
I knew that Fredo,
he don't like it anymore.
Like, it was too much
asking him
to put me and to push me
on a crazy wave.
For sure, there's a risk
with injury and all that.
But it was tough because
I'm confident with him.
I really felt, like,
kind of lost sometimes.
[both speaking French]
I'm not doing it
because I love it.
I'm doing it because
I need to do it.
Because the most important
is Justine to be safe.
[speaking French]
[thunder rumbling]
[wind rustling]
[tense music]
♪ ♪
♪ ♪
The wind is kinda
complicated out there.
You know, there's so much mist
and it's a full
fuckin' storm out there.
You really gotta be
on your toes, you know.
But I like it.
I like the dramatic look,
the wind, the clouds, the...
you know.
This one.
[all exclaim]
Wow, stop.
On that day, I can remember
being on the very, um...
it's not, oh, you know,
"Is anyone getting any waves?"
See, I'm looking at these...
see the set here coming in now?
Yeah. I don't know.
How you feeling?
What you thinking?
That day, I said no,
perhaps because I'm not
feeling worthy to be out there,
or not feeling confident.
- [shutting door]
- Let's put the fire on.
We'll have a little day
indoors now, shall we?
The waves are definitely big,
you know?
It's just hard...
you know, it's hard to surf.
But it's good training, so...
If you said to Alemao,
"Let's go,"
he would say, "I'll meet you
in the harbor in ten minutes."
Looks fucking horrible.
[dog barking]
[speaking Portuguese]
- See you in a bit.
- See ya.
- See you in a minute, buddy.
- Take care.
- Yep.
- All right, now.
Funny feeling,
being standing here
watching them go out,
and I'm not going out.
Am I gonna miss the wave
of my life
if I don't go out there?
♪ ♪
No. Not at all.
I'm very happy right here
on the land.
It's nice to watch.
Here they go. Here they go.
Whoa.
I'm up there,
watching out for Cotty,
and he got a couple
really good waves.
I see him catch this wave,
and he kicks out.
Oh!
Cotton.
He's in a bad spot.
[speaking Portuguese]
[people exclaiming]
[groaning]
No, but where's Cotty
and Alemao?
Just don't worry about the ski,
look at Cotty and Alemao.
[speaking Portuguese]
By the rock.
Tell him to go look
for Cotty by the rocks.
Tell Lucas to get in there.
Who has Lucas...
who's Lucas' spotter?
Fuck, I better go down there.
Get with Cotty.
Tell everyone to get Cotty.
Fuck.
[tense music]
I did not see any...
all I thought was
Cotty's on the rocks.
♪ ♪
[speaking Portuguese]
- He's there on the rock.
- Ahh.
Everyone's been up
on that lighthouse.
Everybody's looked down there.
Everybody said to themselves,
"If you get there,
you're done."
And he went straight in there.
[people whistling, shouting]
[shouting indistinctly]
[dramatic music]
♪ ♪
[whistling]
♪ ♪
[speaking Portuguese]
And I turn to the beach,
I saw Garrett just drop
on the hill
just, like, eyes on...
"Man! Where's Cotty?
Are you good, Alemao?"
- Are you all right?
- Yeah.
- Yeah, yeah.
- I couldn't hold the ski.
- But it hit my hands like...
- And Cotty was on the sled?
Yeah, Cotty was there.
And you went...
you guys split?
♪ ♪
I'm thinking,
"He's on the rocks.
He's gone."
♪ ♪
[radio static]
How are you?
Where are you?
Alemao is fine.
They got him next to the rocks
and brought him up
to the beach, he's fine.
He's running around
on the beach, helping.
[waves pounding]
♪ ♪
That guy just passed
through the rocks...Cotty.
Can you imagine?
[both speaking Portuguese]
[indistinct chatter]
[exhales]
[clears throat]
Pointless.
[somber music]
I was just on the sled,
and then, all of a sudden,
like, we were in the air.
I can remember looking down
and seeing Alemao
in the water.
Real quick, I, like,
climbed up to drive.
And I thought Alemao
said to me,
"I'm on,"
like, "Clear."
So I just sort of gunned it.
[people exclaiming]
I knew I was in a bad spot.
It was like, "Oh, fuck,
well, this is it."
It's just like,
I'm proper fucked, you know?
Like, this could be,
you know, it.
And I was like,
"Fuck, if this thing draws
"and then, like,
properly breaks,
he gets smashed
into the rocks."
♪ ♪
[whistling]
My adrenaline
was through the roof.
And then, rather than break,
it surged.
So I was getting sucked out.
And I got pushed through
the other side.
♪ ♪
The ski was floating on
the other side of the rocks.
And I can remember
getting on the ski
and getting
on the spare radio...
[static crackling]
So glad you're okay.
And speaking to Garrett
and Justine,
and hearing Alemao
was all right and everything...
that was like...
was like the best bit.
Oh, here he is.
Oh.
No.
- You don't wanna see it.
- Where is the video?
[watching video on phone]
Oh, my God.
When you saw the video,
were you annoyed,
- like, this is...
- Um, I was just, you know,
like, it's just stuff,
for fuck's sake.
Again, like, the wipeout
had been the big news
rather than, like,
all the good waves
that I surfed last week
or the week before.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Just check out the rocks.
Yeah. Happy days.
Yeah, just don't...
let it be.
Let it do whatever
it's gonna do.
It doesn't matter.
It really doesn't matter.
It was one
of the craziest things
I've ever seen out here
and craziest thing
I've ever experienced,
watching my best friend
going into the rocks
and not knowing
if he was dead or not.
[people shouting]
[people whistling on phone]
Dude, the way he's flopping
off the rocks like that...
You know, seeing what happened
with Cotty and Alemao
and launching on skis and
getting blasted and everything
and me thinking, like, "Man,
I don't wanna do that."
You know, it's pretty extreme.
It's definitely set me back
in my ability to surf,
or at least my confidence to
be able to handle a wipeout.
I was guided
very clearly by Mother Nature,
by life, to come to the ocean
and make an offering.
[ethereal music]
♪ ♪
This last week
has been kinda tough.
♪ ♪
Mm.
Just not feeling good enough
to be out there, you know?
So it's been
really frustrating,
but it's also been
a very enlightening week.
Yeah, I'm just at the point
where I'm starting
to manage the energy
differently, you know,
realize that I only have
so much energy to offer.
Yeah, so this week has
been good
in reminding me
what's important.
[speaking Portuguese]
[sighs]
[speaking Portuguese]
Wow, look at that.
Whoo-hoo-hoo-hoo!
Beautiful.
[speaking Portuguese]
[majestic music]
♪ ♪
Going out there,
surfing and training
and connecting with Alemao,
just made it so clear, like,
I can put forth an effort
to go bigger, to do better,
push my limits more.
Then, all of a sudden,
there's a swell
on the horizon.
It was one of these big ones
coming in.
The winds are looking good.
It was appearing
to line up very nicely.
It's like, oh,
this swell is coming in,
and you're due for your waves,
and you're ready,
you've been training.
My plan is to surf
the biggest wave
I've ever ridden.
[speaking Portuguese]
[speaking Portuguese]
That's why we have
so many cameramans around.
Look at this. We got one, two,
three, four,
five, six, seven.
There's more filmers
than surfers right now.
- [laughs]
- They film, and they showcase
a day of action in the ocean.
[speaking French]
We wanted to team up with Tony,
but it was really big swell.
We did not...
that much training together.
So I went with the person
I'm more confident with,
and she went with the person
that she's more confident.
This swell is gonna be like
the good old days,
just me and my dad.
[speaking Portuguese]
My goal for Gigantes was to
leave this day with Fred.
I said to him, like,
"Please do it one more time.
"One more time, we're going
in the water together
"to get one big wave.
"Like, one crazy big one.
And then I stop asking you."
- Yeah?
- She wants to surf with me.
So I was like, "Okay."
[exhales]
"Okay, let's do it."
It may be
the last big session
that we will share together.
Let's stop after the session
that we are proud of.
♪ ♪
- Happy New Year, bro.
- Hey, mate. You all right?
- Yeah, happy New Year.
- How was it?
- Ooh, I saw a really good set.
- Yeah?
Yeah.
Right when it pulled up,
perfect left and right.
Good peak and then a second...
It's gonna get way bigger,
though, isn't it?
Oh, yeah.
Gonna get huge.
You know, I suppose I'd
already had, like, a bad run.
I was kinda paranoid
about getting
on the back of skis with people
'cause, well, you know,
they can end badly.
[laughs]
[speaking French]
[singing in Portuguese]
I still didn't feel like I was
in the club, in the surf club.
You gotta do something sick
in order to be
in the club, right?
[whooshes]
All right.
[dramatic orchestral music]
It was probably
the most excited
I've ever seen CJ to surf.
Whoo, whoo, whoo!
Cotty and CJ were partners,
and Garrett
was driving them both.
You know, to be honest,
I wasn't feeling real confident
in my driving.
I was feeling human.
I was feeling
like maybe Alemao
should be driving.
He's been towing out there
so much more than me.
- Mic check.
- Loud and clear.
Garrett mentions to me,
he's like,
"You want Alemao to drive you?"
And I'm thinking to myself,
"Wow."
I'm bringing it, yeah.
- [laughs]
- It's coming. Now it's time.
- The blue eagle cams.
- Oh, the blue.
- Blue eagle, beautiful.
- [laughs]
Alemao has been out here
driving on all the big days.
He would put me on the wave.
But, no, Garrett's supposed
to put me on this wave.
He was feeling a little unsure
in that moment.
I said, "No, you got this."
Let's go.
Yoo! That was exciting.
Whoo-hoo!
[speaking Portuguese]
Whoo!
Oh, my God!
Hey, guys,
we're here today.
It's absolutely firing.
Pretty huge.
I'm not gonna say biggest ever,
but it's really big out there.
[cheers and applause]
The whole cliff
is full of people.
It's a circus, right.
After Fe was born,
everything was quasi-
back to normal.
And I was adamant
I was gonna go do safety.
- [laughs]
- Aww.
So I had to see
if she's all snuggled.
- That's so sweet.
- Garrett,
what's your position?
We're in between
first and second.
Got you.
[dramatic music]
We're looking,
and it's, like,
kinda bumpy and really big.
I'm watching Lucas Chumbo
out there,
and they're putting him
way outside on these big bobs.
[speaking Portuguese]
And Justine, like, everyone
getting waves, you know.
[speaking Portuguese]
When offered
the opportunity,
Cotty doesn't wanna surf,
Alemao doesn't wanna surf,
Garrett doesn't wanna surf.
And I'm, like, thinking.
I'm like,
"I'm thinking of going for it."
[laughs]
He says, "Give me the rope."
Outside,
there's a humongous wave.
Outside.
Oh, it's big.
I might not be able to watch.
The way I feel
about my brother surfing
is probably how everybody
expects me to feel
about my husband surfing.
But with CJ, it almost
makes me sick.
Oh, my God.
Is that them?
- Yep.
- That's them?
That's CJ.
I knew the one I wanted.
I wanted the big left
on the first peak.
[speaking Portuguese]
He was super focused,
went out there with a goal,
achieved the goal,
and he was surfing
really good.
Finally, he showed that
he's got something going on.
He can do it.
- CJ manned up.
- Yeah.
That was pretty cool.
I am super proud of how CJ
surfed that January swell.
It definitely opened
people's eyes
to him not just being there
just because he's
Garrett's brother-in-law.
Like, he actually has talent.
I've been shooting him
for three years,
and I was really impressed.
He gained a lot, a lot
of respect from everybody.
[laughs] Yoo!
The inkling was starting
that I had, like,
earned my keep a little bit,
but it wasn't complete.
So it's like,
how far can I push myself?
Dude, I haven't surfed
enough, man.
- Nothing?
- I haven't surfed
the wave of my life,
and it's about time
I surf the wave of my life.
It was a full-on day, you know,
from morning till dark.
People pushing the limits,
people riding
some of the biggest waves
they've ever ridden.
[thrilling music]
♪ ♪
[speaking Portuguese]
My goal for that day
wasn't even, like,
to catch the biggest one.
It was to, do,
like, some really good lines.
Try to risk more, not good
all the time, like, straight.
[speaking Portuguese]
I knew it was
a nasty wipeout
when I saw my father's face.
Like,
the eyes were really open,
and he knew there was a big one
behind me.
[speaking Portuguese]
Chumbo saw me,
he picked me up.
[cheers and applause]
I told him, like,
"Leave me in the sand.
I need to go
pick up my board."
[speaking Portuguese]
[whistling]
I always loved to get pounded,
you know,
the rush and the feeling
of adrenaline.
After that wipeout,
for a long time,
I got, like,
what I mean...
it's not that funny to get
pounded anymore, you know?
[dramatic tone]
♪ ♪
[crowd cheering]
It was the day of carnage.
Mama Nazaré won that day.
[speaking Portuguese]
Whoa.
At least.
It was a good session.
We were happy about it.
Now we can be proud, and it
can be the end of the session.
And then Lucas came
on the lineup, and he's like,
"Oh, Justine, let's catch
a few waves together."
[speaking Portuguese]
And in my mind, I was like,
we survived
for four hours alone.
And now, Lucas is
the best driver in Nazaré.
Go with him.
Like, I do safety,
Lucas tow you,
and we...we're good.
Amazing, like,
the perfect combination for me.
♪ ♪
[crowd cheering]
[speaking Portuguese]
And I saw Justine going down
on that huge wave.
I was right
at the bottom of it,
and it was horrific.
♪ ♪
She fell in the apex
of the wave,
and thing just
obliterated her.
[radio chatter]
I think she got
really pounded,
and they're really close
to the rocks.
That's the worst situation
she's ever had.
So, I look, and I know
there is Lucas with me.
She popped up far from us.
She's popped up, like,
way closer to the cliff
than what I was expecting.
And I see a little window
where I'm like, "Okay,
I can go. I can rush to her
and get her."
[speaking Portuguese]
Lucas is screaming at me,
"Don't go! Don't go! Don't go!
Wait, wait! Don't go!"
I'm like, "Fuck you, I'll go."
♪ ♪
The next wave
is super close.
I look behind,
and she come drag the sled
and I'm already
in the face of the wave.
♪ ♪
And as soon as I miss her,
I'm like, okay,
if I fucked up, I'm dead.
And she's dead.
It was such
a crazy decision for him
because if he
wouldn't have done it,
it was, like, 100% sure
that we will crash.
So it would have been
two person in danger.
When I was on the wave,
I was like, "Okay,
"I need to survive,
because otherwise,
Fred will think about that
for his entire life."
He'll, like...he will have
too much regret.
So, I was like, "Okay,
hold onto life.
It's gonna be okay."
I keep hearing
on the radio, "Okay,
"she's getting closer
to a cliff.
She's getting closer
to the cliff."
[speaking Portuguese]
Chumbo was, like,
going over the falls
with the ski after her.
♪ ♪
And then you see
at that point,
she's, like,
three meters from the cliff.
♪ ♪
I see all the people
on the cliff, like, screaming,
and making signs.
[people shouting]
I just turn, and I hear Lucas
was there with the ski.
I was, "No way! Come on!
Please, wait, wait for me,
wait for me!"
[cheers and applause]
♪ ♪
[speaking French]
I was questioning myself,
like, why are you putting
your body
into this situation?
And, next will be like this
or, like,
what's the purpose of that?
[speaking French]
♪ ♪
A lot of huge waves
came in that day.
It was humongous.
I swear, it was 100-foot-plus.
Garrett was just, like,
super proud of CJ
and super excited
and, for the first time,
I think, felt that CJ really
wanted it.
So, Garrett was really excited
to get him
the wave that he wanted.
CJ was hungry.
He was looking for
the biggest wave of the day.
I'm feeling nerves
and the immensity
of the situation
and just how much it means
for my whole life.
Like, I'm trying to get
the ride of a lifetime.
This wave just pops up,
and I go, "You want it?"
And he goes, "Yeah."
And I think they both kinda
had it in their mind
that this might be
the 100-foot wave.
I'm like, "Yeah, okay."
I feel really confident
right now to go for this,
and that's cool.
Here he goes.
Oh!
♪ ♪
Ah! Ahh!
Keep an eye out.
[radio chatter]
Where is your uncle?
Keep an eye out.
- Where are they?
- Shit.
[radio chatter]
Alemao went in
to look for him,
couldn't see him.
♪ ♪
I'm running inside
like crazy.
Near the rocks...he's not
really near the rocks.
Where is he?
I don't have eyes on CJ.
Does anybody have him?
Where the hell is he?
I could hear Nicole sounding
more and more panicked.
Did he have any floatation
other than his vest?
And I was thinking, like,
he got hit that hard,
but maybe unconscious
and pulled his vest,
and you know...
You just...you know...
you just don't even wanna
think about it,
you know, like...
Garrett,
I don't see him anywhere.
What the fuck?
He's not floating.
He's on all that floatation.
He should be floating.
So I was, "Oh, God,
did his wet suit
get ripped off?"
That would be...
What if we don't find him?
Like...
how do you find somebody
who's lost at sea?
Oh, my God. Garrett!
I don't see him anywhere!
I was watching the whole time.
He popped up
after the first wave.
The second wave came,
and I never saw him come up
after the second wave.
He's...
We just have to keep looking.
Oh, fuck.
♪ ♪
[radio chatter]
♪ ♪
[bright tone]
[bright tone]
[bell dings]
[ding]
[ding]
The mindfulness bell
just went off on my phone.
So the bell invites us
to take a mindful breath.
And one of Thích Nhat Hanh's
sutras that he says
is, "Breathing in,
I relax my mind and my body.
"Breathing out, I smile.
I know this is
a wonderful moment."
The boys are waiting. They're
probably gonna yell at me.
[jaunty music]
Is CJ like all the other
big-wave surfers at Nazaré,
or does he kind of, like,
forge a different path?
Well, CJ is isn't really
a big-wave surfer.
♪ ♪
He's definitely been
a surfer his whole life,
and he used to enter contests
back in the day,
but it was, like,
two-foot Florida.
That's what they grew up on.
Whenever CJ wants
to be out in the water,
he's phenomenal.
Like, he...
he is one
of those truly soul surfers.
I mean, I brought him
to Hawaii,
and he went to Pipeline
and got the wave
that pipeline surfers
dream of getting.
He got it
his first session out
but never went back.
He wants to have
this clear vision
and these clear goals,
but he gets so caught up
overthinking everything.
♪ ♪
I've seen two sides to CJ,
and they're like,
take it or leave it,
you know.
Like, not that bothered,
and then, like, beast mode.
I really don't know
what's his goal...
if he wants to ride
the biggest waves,
if he's being dragged
by Garrett,
if he wants to do yoga
on a surfboard...
♪ ♪
He doesn't need
to prove anything.
He's surfed waves,
he's driven Garrett,
done safety, done everything.
♪ ♪
Do you feel like CJ
has something to prove?
I think people have
no idea of who CJ is
or what he's capable of.
♪ ♪
[dramatic music]
♪ ♪
When Tony didn't compete
for the WSL events,
I was, for sure, upset
and disappointed for him.
I could tell his frustration.
[doorbell dings]
Oh, yeah, yeah.
[all greeting in French]
- We saw one swell going
to Madeira,
and we have some contacts,
and they were like,
"Hey, you guys should come.
It's gonna be a great, great
day for training, for surfing."
When Justine and Fred asked
me if I want to go with them,
I just got really happy.
Up.
Away, Papa. [laughs]
- Bye.
- Obrigado.
Bye, Papa.
[speaking Portuguese]
[Canned Heat's
"Going Up The Country"]
The trip helped me to forget
everything about the contest.
Okay, the family
is going to holidays!
♪ I'm going up the country ♪
♪ Baby, don't you wanna go? ♪
♪ I'm going up the country ♪
Big wave. Yeah, yeah.
It's gonna be the first one
of a lot of trips.
- Yeah?
- Yeah.
♪ ♪
♪ I'm going, I'm going ♪
♪ Where the water
tastes like wine ♪
♪ I'm going where the water
tastes like wine ♪
- Go see.
- Oh!
- Oh.
- Oh.
Oh la la.
Oh la la!
[laughs]
Go see. No way.
I'm in love with this.
[speaking French]
[both laugh]
♪ ♪
This is what I want to do
for the rest of my life.
To not stay always in Nazaré.
It's already the beginning
of the dream.
Like, start traveling
to surf big waves.
♪ ♪
During that contest,
it made me realize
how the good partner
is so important for me.
Like, how do you
like each other?
How do you commit?
How do you do this together?
Tony was used to surf
with his dad.
I was used to surf
with my boyfriend.
So, it was good to
spend time with him
and make me remember the
beginning of my career, too.
It's the best, the beginning
when you know nothing.
Things full of a none.
See you.
[laughter]
Surfing with her,
it's almost the same
as surfing with my father,
you know.
I don't feel pressure.
I don't feel that I'm working.
- And now.
- [laughs]
While I'm with them,
all the time,
- joke, messing around.
- Good first trip.
First big wave big boy.
I feel really
comfortable with them.
Like family.
He had a good
and positive effect on me.
He was, like, good vibes,
really good vibes.
Yeah, it was really like
a beginning of a story for us.
Yeah, I'm exciting
for the future with him.
[dog barking]
Hey.
After the baby was born,
I just have turned into
a voyeur for a while.
♪ ♪
Look at the four surfers out.
I got no desire to surf.
Nowadays, I can watch guys
get waves,
and I'm totally content.
I don't have FOMO anymore.
No, no, no!
You're gonna go
timeout again.
You're not supposed
to be screaming.
After Fe was born,
it's just...
life is completely different.
So, let's say all the sounds
in the word "at."
- At.
- T...
You know, Garrett
really settled in
and enjoyed being here
with the family.
Did you know that
Dad likes reading?
I love reading.
I do.
You know,
his priority's changing,
and, you know,
he seems really happy.
Oh.
[laughs]
But now figuring out
good partners,
good safety,
good communication...
you know, like,
it's definitely harder.
What up? Did you see
the waves before dark?
Good...yeah,
it's just smaller,
but tomorrow morning could be
potentially pretty big, so...
The last contest,
it was just such a shitshow.
You know, it was
a perfect royal go left
and then I'd ended up, like,
not going anywhere,
just going straight
and getting pounded so hard.
[wave pounds]
I just, like...felt like just
driving over my surf board.
And then, like,
I just wanted to just, like...
"Wow, I don't wanna see
these things ever again.
I hate 'em."
Check out Andrew Cotton, here.
And he'll get
absolutely blown up.
I don't wanna be remembered
for...for wiping out.
The goal is to ride, you know,
the tallest wave.
You achieve that
by being in every swell,
being healthy, and just
choosing your moments.
All right,
is CJ gonna come out?
All right.
[Pedro Paulo's "Nazaré"]
[lighter flicking]
♪ ♪
[singing in Portuguese]
[singing along]
This season,
the calling was clear
that I'm supposed to be here.
♪ Nazaré ♪
See where I kinda can fit in
and how I'm feeling.
I haven't really towed into
big waves in a while.
After that trip to Jaws
and the experience
that I had there,
feeling myself out with all
these legendary masters
of Jaws and tow surfing.
It really, like,
stoked the fire.
But yeah,
being out there with Garrett
reflects a lot of insecurities,
maybe, about worthiness
to be on the wave
'cause, well, yeah,
he's my brother-in-law; he has
to bring me out, you know.
I got a message from Garrett.
"As much
as humanly possible."
That's, like,
his favorite line.
Okay, so I'm gonna bring my wet
wetsuits over to Perfect Waves.
I'll meet you there,
and I'll change when we go.
Yeah. Tchau, tchau.
See you, buddy.
- Alemao...the master,
the captain.
You know,
when he goes out there,
I think he really sees himself
as the master,
the uncle of the lineup.
Yeah!
Alemao is one of
the best drivers, full stop.
Best tow driver,
best rescue guy.
No doubt in my mind that
if he puts me into a wave,
he's gonna come get me.
[speaking Portuguese]
Never tried
this thing before,
but I think I might want
some extra today.
- CJ.
- Yo?
[imitates ripping]
Cool, thank you.
See, that's why I hang with
the guys who know what's up.
[speaking Portuguese]
[thrilling string music]
Yeah.
[speaking Portuguese]
I love surfing with Alemao
you know, like,
'cause I can enjoy it and not
put too much pressure on it
and, you know, maybe take
a leaf out CJ's book,
and I might not take it
too seriously, you know, like...
Yeah.
[speaking Portuguese]
♪ ♪
I'm still learning,
I realized this morning.
I'm, like,
learning how to surf, still.
[laughs]
What?
- Wow.
- Pumping Friday.
- Wow.
- Pumping Saturday.
- Okay.
- Paddle, tow, paddle, tow,
paddle, tow,
get barreled.
It's amazing.
What are you gonna do,
spend the whole two weeks out
there in the water
and never come in?
- You would?
- Well, if I was maybe 21.
- Yeah, right.
- Not 42.
- Yeah.
- You know, you always
- want more.
- [laughs] Yeah.
- Want more.
- Want more.
- But when's enough enough?
- I don't know.
- When are we satisfied?
- Don't know.
I hate it, honestly.
[laughs]
I'm not a patient guy.
[laughter]
My father's like,
"Don't worry. Calm."
- Calm, calm.
- "Tranquilo."
Since the trip we did
to Medeira,
I started to spend way
more time with Justine.
I liked the idea
about teaming up with Tony.
We didn't have
that much experience
driving the ski, so we could
really, like, improve together.
- Do it? I push?
- No, no, it just...
No, no, it's okay.
You can come from the ski.
These ones are easy.
I told her that I'm really
nervous driving for you.
And she was like, "Why?"
Like, because it's you,
you know?
She just told me to, like,
drive like I know.
[breezy music]
[speaking Portuguese]
For Justine, it was
a new start because
she was feeling that I didn't
want to drive in big waves.
So it was a release for me
to let them have fun.
Perfection.
I knew that Fredo,
he don't like it anymore.
Like, it was too much
asking him
to put me and to push me
on a crazy wave.
For sure, there's a risk
with injury and all that.
But it was tough because
I'm confident with him.
I really felt, like,
kind of lost sometimes.
[both speaking French]
I'm not doing it
because I love it.
I'm doing it because
I need to do it.
Because the most important
is Justine to be safe.
[speaking French]
[thunder rumbling]
[wind rustling]
[tense music]
♪ ♪
♪ ♪
The wind is kinda
complicated out there.
You know, there's so much mist
and it's a full
fuckin' storm out there.
You really gotta be
on your toes, you know.
But I like it.
I like the dramatic look,
the wind, the clouds, the...
you know.
This one.
[all exclaim]
Wow, stop.
On that day, I can remember
being on the very, um...
it's not, oh, you know,
"Is anyone getting any waves?"
See, I'm looking at these...
see the set here coming in now?
Yeah. I don't know.
How you feeling?
What you thinking?
That day, I said no,
perhaps because I'm not
feeling worthy to be out there,
or not feeling confident.
- [shutting door]
- Let's put the fire on.
We'll have a little day
indoors now, shall we?
The waves are definitely big,
you know?
It's just hard...
you know, it's hard to surf.
But it's good training, so...
If you said to Alemao,
"Let's go,"
he would say, "I'll meet you
in the harbor in ten minutes."
Looks fucking horrible.
[dog barking]
[speaking Portuguese]
- See you in a bit.
- See ya.
- See you in a minute, buddy.
- Take care.
- Yep.
- All right, now.
Funny feeling,
being standing here
watching them go out,
and I'm not going out.
Am I gonna miss the wave
of my life
if I don't go out there?
♪ ♪
No. Not at all.
I'm very happy right here
on the land.
It's nice to watch.
Here they go. Here they go.
Whoa.
I'm up there,
watching out for Cotty,
and he got a couple
really good waves.
I see him catch this wave,
and he kicks out.
Oh!
Cotton.
He's in a bad spot.
[speaking Portuguese]
[people exclaiming]
[groaning]
No, but where's Cotty
and Alemao?
Just don't worry about the ski,
look at Cotty and Alemao.
[speaking Portuguese]
By the rock.
Tell him to go look
for Cotty by the rocks.
Tell Lucas to get in there.
Who has Lucas...
who's Lucas' spotter?
Fuck, I better go down there.
Get with Cotty.
Tell everyone to get Cotty.
Fuck.
[tense music]
I did not see any...
all I thought was
Cotty's on the rocks.
♪ ♪
[speaking Portuguese]
- He's there on the rock.
- Ahh.
Everyone's been up
on that lighthouse.
Everybody's looked down there.
Everybody said to themselves,
"If you get there,
you're done."
And he went straight in there.
[people whistling, shouting]
[shouting indistinctly]
[dramatic music]
♪ ♪
[whistling]
♪ ♪
[speaking Portuguese]
And I turn to the beach,
I saw Garrett just drop
on the hill
just, like, eyes on...
"Man! Where's Cotty?
Are you good, Alemao?"
- Are you all right?
- Yeah.
- Yeah, yeah.
- I couldn't hold the ski.
- But it hit my hands like...
- And Cotty was on the sled?
Yeah, Cotty was there.
And you went...
you guys split?
♪ ♪
I'm thinking,
"He's on the rocks.
He's gone."
♪ ♪
[radio static]
How are you?
Where are you?
Alemao is fine.
They got him next to the rocks
and brought him up
to the beach, he's fine.
He's running around
on the beach, helping.
[waves pounding]
♪ ♪
That guy just passed
through the rocks...Cotty.
Can you imagine?
[both speaking Portuguese]
[indistinct chatter]
[exhales]
[clears throat]
Pointless.
[somber music]
I was just on the sled,
and then, all of a sudden,
like, we were in the air.
I can remember looking down
and seeing Alemao
in the water.
Real quick, I, like,
climbed up to drive.
And I thought Alemao
said to me,
"I'm on,"
like, "Clear."
So I just sort of gunned it.
[people exclaiming]
I knew I was in a bad spot.
It was like, "Oh, fuck,
well, this is it."
It's just like,
I'm proper fucked, you know?
Like, this could be,
you know, it.
And I was like,
"Fuck, if this thing draws
"and then, like,
properly breaks,
he gets smashed
into the rocks."
♪ ♪
[whistling]
My adrenaline
was through the roof.
And then, rather than break,
it surged.
So I was getting sucked out.
And I got pushed through
the other side.
♪ ♪
The ski was floating on
the other side of the rocks.
And I can remember
getting on the ski
and getting
on the spare radio...
[static crackling]
So glad you're okay.
And speaking to Garrett
and Justine,
and hearing Alemao
was all right and everything...
that was like...
was like the best bit.
Oh, here he is.
Oh.
No.
- You don't wanna see it.
- Where is the video?
[watching video on phone]
Oh, my God.
When you saw the video,
were you annoyed,
- like, this is...
- Um, I was just, you know,
like, it's just stuff,
for fuck's sake.
Again, like, the wipeout
had been the big news
rather than, like,
all the good waves
that I surfed last week
or the week before.
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Just check out the rocks.
Yeah. Happy days.
Yeah, just don't...
let it be.
Let it do whatever
it's gonna do.
It doesn't matter.
It really doesn't matter.
It was one
of the craziest things
I've ever seen out here
and craziest thing
I've ever experienced,
watching my best friend
going into the rocks
and not knowing
if he was dead or not.
[people shouting]
[people whistling on phone]
Dude, the way he's flopping
off the rocks like that...
You know, seeing what happened
with Cotty and Alemao
and launching on skis and
getting blasted and everything
and me thinking, like, "Man,
I don't wanna do that."
You know, it's pretty extreme.
It's definitely set me back
in my ability to surf,
or at least my confidence to
be able to handle a wipeout.
I was guided
very clearly by Mother Nature,
by life, to come to the ocean
and make an offering.
[ethereal music]
♪ ♪
This last week
has been kinda tough.
♪ ♪
Mm.
Just not feeling good enough
to be out there, you know?
So it's been
really frustrating,
but it's also been
a very enlightening week.
Yeah, I'm just at the point
where I'm starting
to manage the energy
differently, you know,
realize that I only have
so much energy to offer.
Yeah, so this week has
been good
in reminding me
what's important.
[speaking Portuguese]
[sighs]
[speaking Portuguese]
Wow, look at that.
Whoo-hoo-hoo-hoo!
Beautiful.
[speaking Portuguese]
[majestic music]
♪ ♪
Going out there,
surfing and training
and connecting with Alemao,
just made it so clear, like,
I can put forth an effort
to go bigger, to do better,
push my limits more.
Then, all of a sudden,
there's a swell
on the horizon.
It was one of these big ones
coming in.
The winds are looking good.
It was appearing
to line up very nicely.
It's like, oh,
this swell is coming in,
and you're due for your waves,
and you're ready,
you've been training.
My plan is to surf
the biggest wave
I've ever ridden.
[speaking Portuguese]
[speaking Portuguese]
That's why we have
so many cameramans around.
Look at this. We got one, two,
three, four,
five, six, seven.
There's more filmers
than surfers right now.
- [laughs]
- They film, and they showcase
a day of action in the ocean.
[speaking French]
We wanted to team up with Tony,
but it was really big swell.
We did not...
that much training together.
So I went with the person
I'm more confident with,
and she went with the person
that she's more confident.
This swell is gonna be like
the good old days,
just me and my dad.
[speaking Portuguese]
My goal for Gigantes was to
leave this day with Fred.
I said to him, like,
"Please do it one more time.
"One more time, we're going
in the water together
"to get one big wave.
"Like, one crazy big one.
And then I stop asking you."
- Yeah?
- She wants to surf with me.
So I was like, "Okay."
[exhales]
"Okay, let's do it."
It may be
the last big session
that we will share together.
Let's stop after the session
that we are proud of.
♪ ♪
- Happy New Year, bro.
- Hey, mate. You all right?
- Yeah, happy New Year.
- How was it?
- Ooh, I saw a really good set.
- Yeah?
Yeah.
Right when it pulled up,
perfect left and right.
Good peak and then a second...
It's gonna get way bigger,
though, isn't it?
Oh, yeah.
Gonna get huge.
You know, I suppose I'd
already had, like, a bad run.
I was kinda paranoid
about getting
on the back of skis with people
'cause, well, you know,
they can end badly.
[laughs]
[speaking French]
[singing in Portuguese]
I still didn't feel like I was
in the club, in the surf club.
You gotta do something sick
in order to be
in the club, right?
[whooshes]
All right.
[dramatic orchestral music]
It was probably
the most excited
I've ever seen CJ to surf.
Whoo, whoo, whoo!
Cotty and CJ were partners,
and Garrett
was driving them both.
You know, to be honest,
I wasn't feeling real confident
in my driving.
I was feeling human.
I was feeling
like maybe Alemao
should be driving.
He's been towing out there
so much more than me.
- Mic check.
- Loud and clear.
Garrett mentions to me,
he's like,
"You want Alemao to drive you?"
And I'm thinking to myself,
"Wow."
I'm bringing it, yeah.
- [laughs]
- It's coming. Now it's time.
- The blue eagle cams.
- Oh, the blue.
- Blue eagle, beautiful.
- [laughs]
Alemao has been out here
driving on all the big days.
He would put me on the wave.
But, no, Garrett's supposed
to put me on this wave.
He was feeling a little unsure
in that moment.
I said, "No, you got this."
Let's go.
Yoo! That was exciting.
Whoo-hoo!
[speaking Portuguese]
Whoo!
Oh, my God!
Hey, guys,
we're here today.
It's absolutely firing.
Pretty huge.
I'm not gonna say biggest ever,
but it's really big out there.
[cheers and applause]
The whole cliff
is full of people.
It's a circus, right.
After Fe was born,
everything was quasi-
back to normal.
And I was adamant
I was gonna go do safety.
- [laughs]
- Aww.
So I had to see
if she's all snuggled.
- That's so sweet.
- Garrett,
what's your position?
We're in between
first and second.
Got you.
[dramatic music]
We're looking,
and it's, like,
kinda bumpy and really big.
I'm watching Lucas Chumbo
out there,
and they're putting him
way outside on these big bobs.
[speaking Portuguese]
And Justine, like, everyone
getting waves, you know.
[speaking Portuguese]
When offered
the opportunity,
Cotty doesn't wanna surf,
Alemao doesn't wanna surf,
Garrett doesn't wanna surf.
And I'm, like, thinking.
I'm like,
"I'm thinking of going for it."
[laughs]
He says, "Give me the rope."
Outside,
there's a humongous wave.
Outside.
Oh, it's big.
I might not be able to watch.
The way I feel
about my brother surfing
is probably how everybody
expects me to feel
about my husband surfing.
But with CJ, it almost
makes me sick.
Oh, my God.
Is that them?
- Yep.
- That's them?
That's CJ.
I knew the one I wanted.
I wanted the big left
on the first peak.
[speaking Portuguese]
He was super focused,
went out there with a goal,
achieved the goal,
and he was surfing
really good.
Finally, he showed that
he's got something going on.
He can do it.
- CJ manned up.
- Yeah.
That was pretty cool.
I am super proud of how CJ
surfed that January swell.
It definitely opened
people's eyes
to him not just being there
just because he's
Garrett's brother-in-law.
Like, he actually has talent.
I've been shooting him
for three years,
and I was really impressed.
He gained a lot, a lot
of respect from everybody.
[laughs] Yoo!
The inkling was starting
that I had, like,
earned my keep a little bit,
but it wasn't complete.
So it's like,
how far can I push myself?
Dude, I haven't surfed
enough, man.
- Nothing?
- I haven't surfed
the wave of my life,
and it's about time
I surf the wave of my life.
It was a full-on day, you know,
from morning till dark.
People pushing the limits,
people riding
some of the biggest waves
they've ever ridden.
[thrilling music]
♪ ♪
[speaking Portuguese]
My goal for that day
wasn't even, like,
to catch the biggest one.
It was to, do,
like, some really good lines.
Try to risk more, not good
all the time, like, straight.
[speaking Portuguese]
I knew it was
a nasty wipeout
when I saw my father's face.
Like,
the eyes were really open,
and he knew there was a big one
behind me.
[speaking Portuguese]
Chumbo saw me,
he picked me up.
[cheers and applause]
I told him, like,
"Leave me in the sand.
I need to go
pick up my board."
[speaking Portuguese]
[whistling]
I always loved to get pounded,
you know,
the rush and the feeling
of adrenaline.
After that wipeout,
for a long time,
I got, like,
what I mean...
it's not that funny to get
pounded anymore, you know?
[dramatic tone]
♪ ♪
[crowd cheering]
It was the day of carnage.
Mama Nazaré won that day.
[speaking Portuguese]
Whoa.
At least.
It was a good session.
We were happy about it.
Now we can be proud, and it
can be the end of the session.
And then Lucas came
on the lineup, and he's like,
"Oh, Justine, let's catch
a few waves together."
[speaking Portuguese]
And in my mind, I was like,
we survived
for four hours alone.
And now, Lucas is
the best driver in Nazaré.
Go with him.
Like, I do safety,
Lucas tow you,
and we...we're good.
Amazing, like,
the perfect combination for me.
♪ ♪
[crowd cheering]
[speaking Portuguese]
And I saw Justine going down
on that huge wave.
I was right
at the bottom of it,
and it was horrific.
♪ ♪
She fell in the apex
of the wave,
and thing just
obliterated her.
[radio chatter]
I think she got
really pounded,
and they're really close
to the rocks.
That's the worst situation
she's ever had.
So, I look, and I know
there is Lucas with me.
She popped up far from us.
She's popped up, like,
way closer to the cliff
than what I was expecting.
And I see a little window
where I'm like, "Okay,
I can go. I can rush to her
and get her."
[speaking Portuguese]
Lucas is screaming at me,
"Don't go! Don't go! Don't go!
Wait, wait! Don't go!"
I'm like, "Fuck you, I'll go."
♪ ♪
The next wave
is super close.
I look behind,
and she come drag the sled
and I'm already
in the face of the wave.
♪ ♪
And as soon as I miss her,
I'm like, okay,
if I fucked up, I'm dead.
And she's dead.
It was such
a crazy decision for him
because if he
wouldn't have done it,
it was, like, 100% sure
that we will crash.
So it would have been
two person in danger.
When I was on the wave,
I was like, "Okay,
"I need to survive,
because otherwise,
Fred will think about that
for his entire life."
He'll, like...he will have
too much regret.
So, I was like, "Okay,
hold onto life.
It's gonna be okay."
I keep hearing
on the radio, "Okay,
"she's getting closer
to a cliff.
She's getting closer
to the cliff."
[speaking Portuguese]
Chumbo was, like,
going over the falls
with the ski after her.
♪ ♪
And then you see
at that point,
she's, like,
three meters from the cliff.
♪ ♪
I see all the people
on the cliff, like, screaming,
and making signs.
[people shouting]
I just turn, and I hear Lucas
was there with the ski.
I was, "No way! Come on!
Please, wait, wait for me,
wait for me!"
[cheers and applause]
♪ ♪
[speaking French]
I was questioning myself,
like, why are you putting
your body
into this situation?
And, next will be like this
or, like,
what's the purpose of that?
[speaking French]
♪ ♪
A lot of huge waves
came in that day.
It was humongous.
I swear, it was 100-foot-plus.
Garrett was just, like,
super proud of CJ
and super excited
and, for the first time,
I think, felt that CJ really
wanted it.
So, Garrett was really excited
to get him
the wave that he wanted.
CJ was hungry.
He was looking for
the biggest wave of the day.
I'm feeling nerves
and the immensity
of the situation
and just how much it means
for my whole life.
Like, I'm trying to get
the ride of a lifetime.
This wave just pops up,
and I go, "You want it?"
And he goes, "Yeah."
And I think they both kinda
had it in their mind
that this might be
the 100-foot wave.
I'm like, "Yeah, okay."
I feel really confident
right now to go for this,
and that's cool.
Here he goes.
Oh!
♪ ♪
Ah! Ahh!
Keep an eye out.
[radio chatter]
Where is your uncle?
Keep an eye out.
- Where are they?
- Shit.
[radio chatter]
Alemao went in
to look for him,
couldn't see him.
♪ ♪
I'm running inside
like crazy.
Near the rocks...he's not
really near the rocks.
Where is he?
I don't have eyes on CJ.
Does anybody have him?
Where the hell is he?
I could hear Nicole sounding
more and more panicked.
Did he have any floatation
other than his vest?
And I was thinking, like,
he got hit that hard,
but maybe unconscious
and pulled his vest,
and you know...
You just...you know...
you just don't even wanna
think about it,
you know, like...
Garrett,
I don't see him anywhere.
What the fuck?
He's not floating.
He's on all that floatation.
He should be floating.
So I was, "Oh, God,
did his wet suit
get ripped off?"
That would be...
What if we don't find him?
Like...
how do you find somebody
who's lost at sea?
Oh, my God. Garrett!
I don't see him anywhere!
I was watching the whole time.
He popped up
after the first wave.
The second wave came,
and I never saw him come up
after the second wave.
He's...
We just have to keep looking.
Oh, fuck.
♪ ♪
[radio chatter]
♪ ♪
[bright tone]