100 Foot Wave (2021–…): Season 2, Episode 3 - Jaws - full transcript

Justine Dupont chases a swell in the Pacific at Mavericks, and then at Jaws in Hawaii, where three years earlier she suffered the biggest injury of her career; returning to Maui, Dupont faces her fears and surprises even herself.

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[TV static drones]

[bright tone]

[gentle music]

♪ ♪

There is a finite amount
of big waves in the world.

There's only,
like, four or five big waves

that are truly
in a league of their own.

And the wave
that changed it all was Jaws.

It's the wave that changed
what was possible

and what the human body
could endure and even ride.

♪ ♪



Jaws is probably
the most perfect big wave.

It's very powerful
when it first hits you

and very violent.

And it will take you

for a long period of time underwater.

♪ ♪

[dramatic music]

- When Justine came
for the first time,

it was the gnarliest day
to paddle ever.

It was for the Jaws contest
in 2018.

- Welcome back
to the Jaws Challenge

at Pe'ahi and here...

[speaking French]

Justine wanted to catch
the best wave of her life.



I think first wave,
she paddled on the big one.

She fell.

She broke the board.

Normally, if you fell
like that, like, you're fucked.

But she's feeling
really confident.

She's like, "Okay, can you
get me another board?"

So I give her another board,
and she goes back out.

Justine Dupont
back on the horse.

This time's gonna go
successful on that drop.

Opened up
with a horrible wipeout,

got back out there,
and now she's...

She surfed that wave

that was a world paddler
record contender.

Like, she's for sure
in the final, you know?

Like, she made it to the final
with that one.

And I'm like,
"Okay, sit with me.

in the channel, relax,
and wait for the final."

And she's like, "Shut up."

[chuckles]
I'm like, "What? Okay.

Do your thing."

I just wanted
to catch the wave

that I was dreaming about.

And the swell was getting
bigger and bigger.

There's a new set coming.
She's paddling back out.

- Got to paddle.
- Oh!

- And we have surfer down.
- Wow.

It may have been
Justine Dupont.

Then I turn my head,
and I look.

I'm like, "Fuck."

I see three or four Jet Ski
rushing to Justine's wave.

I see one Jet Ski flip.

I see one guy jumping
from the ski.

And I know, like,
if the lifeguard

is jumping from the ski,
it's bad.

I see Justine on the sled,

and they're rushing her
to the medicine boat.

- [speaking French]
- [whimpers]

♪ ♪

Up, one, two, three.

[dramatic piano music]

♪ ♪

- Lift.
- [grunts]

♪ ♪

[indistinct chatter]

♪ ♪

[person speaking French]

♪ ♪

Man,
it's a freaking cold day.

Like, the wind is, like,
super cold and super strong.

Like, some waves looking good.

But we know that, like,

it will be,
like, almost impossible

to ride with that wind
and so much current.

And the waves
are not that good,

so it's better wait.

- No, some waves is good.
- You see how it is? Like...

But that wind
is really strong.

- [person chuckles]
- It means it's not that good.

You can see,
but you can't ride.

Okay, I'm going
back to my car.

It's frickin' cold.
[person laughs]

[dramatic choral music]

♪ ♪

We are like,
"Okay, so maybe we spend

"the whole winter in Nazaré,
and we think

about something else, you know,
or just relax."

You know, we've been doing it
for five winters in a row

or something like that.

The storms
are lining up in the Pacific,

that powerful swell drawing

world-class surfers
to Mavericks.

Here we are like,

"Come on, the Pacific
is turning on.

"The Atlantic is turning off.

Okay, let's go."

[speaking French]

Hello.

Come on. Let's go.

♪ ♪

- [chuckles]
- Yes!

[chuckles]

♪ ♪

[airplane engine whirs]

I had never really spent time
in California

and it was great.

- Mexican food.
- Mexican. [chuckles]

[chuckles]

[chuckles]

[giggles]

What I really love
about her

is she could stop
surfing today

and be proud of her career,

but she still, like, have
new challenge

which are totally different.

She always have
new way to think,

and we have fun
doing it together.

[chuckles]

[snapping fingers]

[gentle music]

♪ ♪

♪ ♪

I understand that being
French and European

is gonna be tough for me.

I will need to do way better

to be recognized
by the community.

♪ ♪

- Big one. Steve.
- Oh, Justine.

♪ ♪

Nice.

- Round two?
- Quoi?

She surfed
for 12 days in a row,

and it was 6 hours
of surfing every day.

Yes! Whoo.

Yeah, Justine!

[chuckles]

[scattered cheering]

♪ ♪

She surfs really good

in front
of all the American guys

that haven't really seen
her surfing.

Thank you.

And everybody's like,
"She's amazing."

[chuckles]

And you got some good waves
on it.

You're stoked.

♪ ♪

- Whoo!
- Oh, my God.

♪ ♪

That much surfing...

it's almost too much.

♪ ♪

[yawning]

♪ ♪

Garrett McNamara
is up early, always.

He's oftentimes

looking to rally a wingman
at 5:00 a.m.

I have been, you know,
victim to that a lot of times

of getting the knocks
on the door

or just coming in.

[speaking indistinctly]
[dog barks]

That is Garrett...

waking people up
at 5:00 in the morning,

not knocking.

Doesn't matter
what time it is.

Doesn't matter who it is.

[whispering] Conrad.

Well, it's smaller,
but it's perfection.

Are you too tired?
You just want to sleep or...

- You stayed...
- I don't know.

You stayed up all night?

Not all night.

[grunts]

- [chuckles]
- [groans]

[yawns]

I got this on there,
so just...

When the waves are happening,
we got to be on it early.

And I let everybody know
the night before

that I'm coming
to get 'em, but...

I just love stoking people out.

I love seeing people smiling,
having fun,

accomplishing their goals,
their dreams,

doing what they love.

Great, great.

Garrett can definitely
convince people to do things

that maybe they don't feel
comfortable doing

and sometimes
shouldn't even be doing.

- One, two, three, go.
- Get it out there.

There's something
about the way

he will believe in you.

Ah, come on, come on.

- Come on. Come on.
- Ah!

He pushes people, and you
don't think you can do it.

His faith in you...

and because he has so much
experience in the water,

you believe him,

and you say, "Oh, wow.
Yeah, I can do this."

So, yeah, he pushes people
to be their best.

It's in his trust and belief
in what they can do

that allows people to do that.

It's amazing.

♪ ♪

[chuckles]

We were exhausted.

Like, every day we went
in the water at dark.

I surf all day.

We were tired.

Like, we were waking up
every morning at 4:30,

like, for 15 days in a row.

The one thing about surfing

is you need to really push
yourself to perform.

If you want to succeed,

you need
to really push harder.

But sometime
it's a really fine line

between pushing too much
and get injured.

Two years ago in Jaws,
I was on a mission.

I wanted this wave,
and Fred wanted to stop me

just before that happened,
the injury,

and I didn't listen to him.

I knew Fred,
at his back of his head, like,

"Okay, maybe
she could have reached

"a really good level,

"but because of this injury,
maybe she reached the top,

and she don't got
to perform more."

For me, it was painful

to feel that
he wasn't confident in me

and he was give up...

he was ready to, like, give up.

She can do amazing things,

but she's also, like, not able
to see where the limit is.

And I really think
she need to have someone

to stop her,
but it's painful for me

to be the guy that be like,
"Hey, Justine, stop."

When she got the accident,

I was thinking
about the opportunities

she was missing,
and I was scared for her.

[sighs]

[sighs]

♪ ♪

[birds chirping]

♪ ♪

[knife thudding]

Sick.

CJ didn't really surf
for a long period of time.

But he's
such a freak of nature.

Like, he's good at everything
and anything he does.

[knife thudding]

So he's always kind of ready,

but he always goes internal,

and he's thinking
way more than he's doing.

So it's really challenging
being stuck up here

and not here, there, everywhere.

But he's working on his path,
his life path.

[both humming]

I was still teaching.

You know,
I was teaching this class

of, you know,
little six-year-olds,

and, man, that's a journey.

all:
♪ Aloha kakahiaka ♪

You know, just the kids
day after day

is solid, super rewarding.

Ha! Whoo!

And it's a special kind
of attention, energy

that's needed to be
with those kids.

Raise your hand if you...

And it seemed
like a bit much for me.

So I've stepped back
from teaching that class

for the second half
of the year

so that I can focus
more on other things

that lighten me up
a little bit more.

He expressed interest
in wanting to train.

♪ ♪

Because I've, you know, laid
myself off from teaching,

I'm focusing on the mission,
you know?

Focusing on catching
the giant wave

and surfing a lot,
training with Garrett.

♪ ♪

I've been really happy.

Once CJ stopped teaching,

there was, like,
a spark ignited,

and he was ready to focus
on his body

and being ready
for when his chance came

to surf again.

So now I'm getting
back on it, you know?

- So we can get in there.
- Amazing.

Yeah.

I've been working with
a couple of personal trainers

and doing a lot of
breath work, breath training.

Once you feel
the need to breathe,

breathe in slowly...

Just really focusing
on surfing, being ready,

'cause you never know
what's gonna happen

living with Garrett.

[dramatic music]

♪ ♪

These days,
it's not always clear

what Garrett's up to
or his intention is

on any given day.

"Gently guide fortune
and help determine the future

"by thinking far ahead.

"Begin with an end in mind.

"Having an end in mind

"is no guarantee
that you'll reach it.

"But not having an end in mind
is a guarantee you won't.

"Plan all the way to the end.

"When your efforts
are not directed

"at a cause or a purpose,

"how will you know
when to stop?

"How will you know
when you've had enough,

"when you've reached
your goal,

"when you've gotten off track,

"if you've never defined
what those things are?

"The answer is
that you cannot,

"and so you are driven
into failure

"or, worse, into madness.

Oblivion of directionlessness."

♪ ♪

So what's your intention
for today?

Just be loving.

♪ ♪

Meditating is the key

to a meaningful day.

I really like
to just turn this off...

[exhales deeply]

It's really changed my life.

For the first time in my life,
I'm patient.

I have a lot of patience.

I don't need to be out there
chasing that perfect swell.

[soft tense music]

♪ ♪

- We're talking
about a big swell

that is on the rise today.

High-surf warnings
have been posted...

Huge surf is here...

The waves are only going
to get bigger overnight.

This swell
is very dangerous.

The surf keeps coming.

That's right...early next week,
we'll have one

of maybe three
or four storm systems

that will pass
to the north.

And this could potentially be

the strongest
we have seen so far...

♪ ♪

♪ ♪

A barrel is one of...

or maybe the best maneuver
in surfing.

[laughing]
It's like really sending

the coin in the air and...

Eeh!

[person speaking indistinctly]
Wow!

♪ ♪

When we were
in elementary school,

the talk was, "Oh, I'm gonna
surf Jaws one day,

whenever my parents
will let me."

It almost became my identity
before I even got to ride it.

Like, "I'm gonna be
a Jaws surfer."

[dramatic music]

♪ ♪

Jaws is the birthplace

of tow surfing
and big-wave surfing,

and I've never been there.

To never have been there
and see it,

knowing that it's the mother

of so many great
big-wave surfers, right?

It means so much to Garrett.

He's got so many waves there...
that big barrel.

♪ ♪

I was definitely hoping

that Garrett could tow me
in Jaws.

And it could be so sick.
I was dreaming about it.

I was on the fence
to stay here or go to Jaws,

stay here or go to Jaws.

And I hadn't surfed Jaws
in so long,

and my body
wasn't that strong,

but Jaws...kind of like
my first love.

Jaws restarted my career,

and got my favorite wave
I've ever ridden out there.

So I just wanted
to go back and say hello.

Like, Garrett's gonna surf?

And, "What the fuck?
Why are we asking this?"

- Yeah.
- Like, this guy's gonna surf

the craziest wave ever tomorrow.

- Yeah.
- Like, "Go for it."

- Like, we found, like...
- Go down from your cloud.

And at the same moment,
like, also Michel was there.

And he's like,
"Yeah, sure I'll tow you."

Like, Michel, Garrett,
they're both legend,

and we see what happen.

It's been just amazing
having Michel Larronde.

[chuckles]

In France,
he's a big legend.

He's in the dance
with ocean, you know,

and connected.

He's the guy.

He was one of the first surfers
to surf Jaws,

so he's got
a ton of experience.

- [chuckles]
- [speaking French]

Ah!

To be able to have
his confidence with me...

he trusts me...

it's just, like, amazing.

I was going
through my old stuff,

and I found this picture
that I drew

when I was maybe six.

This big blue wave...

me surfing it,
tiny, little guy.

It was giant, sun shining.

And I write this little poem,

and it's like, "The waves
are huge, and I'm going out.

"All the film crew
and everyone's there,

and, like, I go catch the wave
of my life, and it's epic."

The thing looked like Jaws
and everything...

this little drawing
that I did.

I was like,
"Wow. Oh, my God.

I just, like, called this,
painted this picture."

I'm like,
"Well, I got to go see

if I can, like,
make it a reality."

So that was the sign that said,
"Okay, yeah, I'm going."

♪ ♪

[exhales deeply]

[grunts]

Nicole?

I'm gonna go cut some flowers
and some tea leaves and stuff.

It's a offering
to the goddess of the ocean,

Yemanjá,

for safe passage

If I don't offer something,

I just offer myself

and my love and gratitude.

Always giving gratitude.

That's beautiful.

This is only my second
session out here.

It's gonna be crazy.

Guys are gonna be doing
crazy stuff.

Hopefully I can throw myself
in that mix, too.

[both chuckle]

You don't have a pull-out
for that yet?

- Yeah.
- Or you do?

Landon's my nephew,
and I've been towing him here,

like, 40-foot waves,
since he was 12 years old.

And he was going to Jaws,
so I took him under my wing.

Here.

I got my little baby with me,
so he was waking up a bunch.

And every time he woke up,
I woke up, and...

every hour I kept hearing

the waves getting
a little bit bigger,

and I was like,
"Oh, okay. It's coming."

Bye, guys. Good luck.

Everybody ready?

- [engine turns over]
- Yep.

[indistinct chatter]

[hums]
Oh, yeah.

[chuckles]

Little bit.

[grunts]

It was hard to go to Jaws

because I knew that I already
injure myself at this wave.

[siren wailing]

You still have some memory
in your mind

that I had to fight
and to go through.

[grunts]
[person speaking French]

But at the same time,
if you don't go,

you never know.

[dramatic music]

♪ ♪

Whoo-hoo.

- Hey.
- Homeboy, homeboy.

Garrett.

Good to see you.

There was a lot going on.

There was
cars everywhere, boats.

There was
a bunch of windsurfers.

I wasn't in a rush.
I was patient.

The swell was gonna peak

during the second half
of the day,

so I just wanted to be
in the water then.

It seemed pretty clear

that he definitely wanted me
to get a wave.

And as far
as his surfing goes,

he's always looking
for the barrel.

Most surfers,
that's the ultimate, right?

♪ ♪

[engine revving]

There was a lot of hype.
Everybody went.

The hype was real.

It came in. It appeared.

It arrived in full force,
and it came up all day,

and it finale'd
at the end of the day.

♪ ♪

- Oh.
- Work.

Oh, man.

♪ ♪

You know, I'm seeing guys
charging these waves.

It looks like the videos.
It's just, like, surreal.

♪ ♪

Well, we're out there.
We're on the boat.

Day's started, it's under way.

People are catching waves.
We're in the channel.

I'm feeling very intimidated.

And as I'm calming myself down,

I'm also realizing,
"Oh, I'm gonna surf today.

I'm gonna surf."

And just wait my turn...

stay calm, keep breathing,
keep centering, be prepared.

I took Landon out first,

'cause CJ wanted
to check it out.

I don't know what happened
with Landon's board.

Couldn't find it.

It was supposed to be
on another boat or something.

So he used CJ's board,
his brand-new board.

♪ ♪

I put Landon on a few waves.

He was feeling really good.

Oh, there's Landon!

Yeah. That's Landon...

- [chuckles]
- On a bomb.

- [speaks indistinctly]
- Yeah.

Go, Landon, yeah!

Oof. Oh.
Rider down. Rider down.

Do you see him?

- I don't...There he is.
- There he is. Wow.

Most important thing is
that he was okay, obviously.

- They got him.
- Got him.

Whoo.

And then we got the bad news.

- Oh, for real?
- Not around.

Nah, you're messing with me.

Okay.

- Maybe somebody grabbed it.
- No.

I was like, "Oh, wow, my
board really did get wrecked."

So I was just thinking,

"Oh, okay.
So maybe I'm not surfing."

It was like the decision's
been made for me.

And then Garrett comes up.
He's like, "Yeah, it's gone."

He's like,
"But you want to go?"

He's like,
"I can get you a board.

You want to see
if I can find you a board?"

And I'm like, "Yeah, sure...

Like, what kind of board?"

Now I'm gonna try to ride
a new board

at this spot
I've never surfed before?

[exhales sharply]

CJ looks at things as signs

and reasons
that things happen...

"Well, okay, maybe
I'm not supposed to surf."

But I wanted
to get him a wave.

So then I went and found
a board for him.

You don't have to go.
You don't have to go.

You don't.

Yeah.

♪ ♪

And there in that moment,

I was just doing my best
to get out of my head,

feel the situation...
am I meant to go out?

The danger's out there.
It's safe here.

I'm being called out and...

[sighs]

I just went for it.
It was what I had to do.

♪ ♪

Now, I wouldn't
have pushed him

if he was on the fence.

If he said maybe,

then I would have said,
"Okay, you stay on the boat."

But he said,
"Yeah. I want it."

"Okay. Let's go."

And he killed it!

[upbeat music]

♪ ♪

CJ did amazing.

He did really well
on all waves.

After I got him one,
he wanted another one.

And after I got him another
one, he wanted another one.

He was super fired up.

♪ ♪

Yeah, it was
just incredible

for that dream
to come true, right,

that I drew as a little child.

And now it just happens.

It comes into fruition.

And then it was done.
It's like... [sighs]

This moment
of reflection, right?

Like, I don't know
what it means...

all of it
or anything like that...

but just to recognize,
like, life

and how it brings us
full circle like that.

I draw this little picture,
and little would I ever know

that my sister is gonna end up
marrying Garrett,

and it plugs me in in this way,
and then I'm surfing Jaws.

♪ ♪

The morning
of Super Swell Saturday,

everything was just going wrong.

Like, no matter what I did,

I felt like I just couldn't do
anything right.

I end up going
straight into a wave,

and the Jet Ski
goes over the falls

and just gets annihilated
on the rocks.

People were laughing at me
on the cliff.

Like, I could hear
verbal laughing.

And in that moment, I'm like,
"I'm not supposed to be here.

I'm supposed to be out there."

My brother was like,

"Kai, get on the Jet Ski
with me.

"I'm gonna tow you
into the best waves

you've ever gotten out here."

♪ ♪

I got towed onto this wave,

and I remember being
just so inflated

with adrenaline,
just so intense.

I'm 5'7" but I felt 6'6".

I pulled up
underneath the hood,

and I was waiting for it
to just clamp and destroy me,

but it held open,
and I took a really high line,

and I came out
with a ton of speed...

so much speed I didn't even
know what to do with it.

I squared up
off the bottom, like,

"I'm just gonna punt
a huge air.

I don't even care
what happens."

After I got that wave,

it was like all the pressure
was lifted off my shoulders.

So I go back out,

and sure enough, immediately,
a bigger wave comes in.

♪ ♪

And I was like,
"Wow, that was worth

all the anxiety
and the intensity of the day."

And in that moment,
I was like, "I'm good."

And I'm never good.

Normally I always want
one more.

I'm like, "That was it.
For today, that was it."

And those two waves
will live in my head

clearer than just about
any other rides I've had.

I think that's Kai.

- Huh?
- Kai Lenny.

- Kai!
- They can't hear you. Wave.

- They can't hear you.
- You got to wave.

Give 'em some love.

I think Garrett really wanted
to give Landon and myself

an experience at Jaws.

And once that was accomplished,

he felt free and was ready
and excited to surf.

Got to move forward.

Do your thing.

So he went to get
his couple warm-up waves,

and then Keali'i was like,

"Oh, there's a set coming.
Let's go."

[laughter]

- Feeling good.
- Whoo.

- Oh, yeah. Outside.
- Nice one.

- That's Garrett. Yeah!
- Yeah.

- Oh!
- No! Oh.

[both groan]

- Why did he...
- What happened?

- What happened, Mom?
- It was the wind.

Let's just know that Keali'i
is there to grab him.

- Right there.
- Mama, what happened?

Uncle Chester's got him.
It must have been the wind.

We don't know, baby.

- Mama, what happened?
- Hold on!

Let's just wait
one second, baby.

Did you?

- Yeah.
- Is he going under this one?

Come on, Garrett,
where are you?

♪ ♪

[Jet Ski engines revving]

♪ ♪

Did he go
onto the rocks?

We don't know yet.

Don't worry.
Uncle Keali'i will get him.

I see the skis coming back,
so maybe they got him.

[indistinct chatter]

I told him
I didn't want another one.

[laughter]
I'm good.

He's like,
"Maybe one more."

- You all right?
- I'm like, "Okay."

- You all good?
- [grunts]

- You all right?
- Yeah.

[coughs]

[chuckles]

[indistinct chatter]

[coughing, spits]

Garrett...Oh.

- Fuck.
- Is that yours?

- Yeah.
- What?

He's got the other half.

- [indistinct chatter]
- [coughs]

We all got out of there

alive and safe
and not injured.

When I went,
I went for my first wave,

tried to get barreled, didn't.

Then the second wave
was a huge one.

And it came down...
[imitates whooshing]

Lot of chatter, kicked out,
kind of fell off.

And then we're driving
back out,

and I'm like,
"I think I'm good, Keali'i."

And he's like,
"There's one right here.

Go for it."
And I'm like... [groans]

And I was not focused
on this wave,

and my head was not in it.

I don't know what happened,
but I just fell.

So I just fell over,
and then I got sucked over.

Got hit really hard,

and then I got dragged...
I don't know...

a couple football fields underwater.

[Jet Ski engines revving]

I was under
for a little bit, huh?

all: Yeah.

Oof.

How are you?

Huh?

I knew you were gonna
be okay.

Did you see me
duck over the lip?

Yeah.
[laughter]

You got wipeout of the day
for sure.

Were you scared,
or were you okay?

- No.
- All right. That's good.

I was almost glad
that Barrel was there

for that experience

so that he can understand

that it's not just
all fun and games.

Like, it's a serious thing
that his dad does,

and it can be scary.

- Yeah, we saw.
- Yeah, yeah, yeah.

- We saw...
- And we saw him fall

on that one, the last one.

- It was like, "Oh."
- Crazy big.

And when I saw him,
Garrett McNamara,

falling on a wave...

Maybe... [chuckles]
I'm not "undestructible."

[both chuckle]

It was a big swell,

so a lot of people came
to surf the swell.

So you've got big legend,
big names in the water

that all want the biggest wave,
for sure.

♪ ♪

So, in the lineup,
it can be tough sometimes,

but having, like, the legend
Michel Larronde

knowing the place...

I said to Michel

it could be good to start

on a first wave,
kind of a "middle one"...

[chuckles]
Because it was a crazy day.

So it was good.
I surfed the wave nice.

And then we were waiting
for a long time.

We couldn't go on the wave

because some other surfer
were on the wave.

I said to Michel,

"It's okay.
It's just about one wave.

"And we will have it,
and it will take time.

It's okay.
The wave will come."

It's karma...
if you do good thing in life,

good thing will come to you.

I was like, "Hey, Justine,
we go there,

you have to get barrel, huh?"

And Tyler was like,
"Hey, Justine, Jaws...

You gonna get barrel."

And Michel was like,
"Hey, I'm gonna put you

on a barrel for sure."

♪ ♪

Fred told me something before.

He was like,
"Just trust yourself.

"You can't control it.

"So just trust your skills,
and it will be fine.

You will do the great choice
on the wave."

♪ ♪

Justine's wave was amazing.

That was the wave of the day.

Justine got
the wave of the day.

♪ ♪

That looks like Justine.

Oh, my.

Oh, yeah.
[people cheering]

Oh, yeah.

- That was Justine.
- That was Justine, wasn't it?

Whoo-hoo-hoo!

- Yeah.
- Wow.

- Show 'em how to do it!
- Sick.

Show 'em how to do it, yeah.

- Showing the men how to do it.
- Yeah, she did.

She just straight up showed us.

I remember looking out
and just seeing

this 60-foot-tall wave,
and I was like,

"Oh, my God. She's too deep.
She's too deep.

She's too deep."

Everyone thought she was gone,
and she comes flying out.

And it was redemption.

Oh, my God.

Oh, that was insane.

She got one of the best wave
ever ridden,

period, in Jaws
with everybody around...

like, all the best
big-wave surfer in the world.

Like, it's amazing.

She's stoked.
Everybody's stoked.

And, man,
I'm just so proud of her.

As soon as I was
on the wave,

nothing was existing anymore.

You know, I was just focused
on what I was doing

right here, right now.

When I was in the barrel,
really deep,

I was like... [gasps]
"I want to jump from the board.

I want to escape this."

But in same time,
I just thought about Fred...

"No. Believe in yourself.
Do it."

♪ ♪

[people cheering]

And then there
is a little part of magic

and of luck.

♪ ♪

- When you surf
what some people call

one of the best wave
ever ridden

in the history
of big-wave surfing,

you can think
about money, sponsors,

fame, media,
awards, or records,

whatever you want.

But did we travel for that?
No.

Are we doing
big-wave surfing for that? No.

Were we expecting that?

No.

Like, we went to Jaws
because she wanted

to catch a crazy wave
after her injury.

That's what she did.

[bright tone]