100 Foot Wave (2021–…): Season 2, Episode 1 - Epsilon - full transcript

At the start of the new big wave season in October 2020, Hurricane Epsilon brings huge swells to Nazaré and the biggest names in surfing congregate to battle for the largest wave. As thousands of spectators line the cliffs, the waters become dangerously choked with surfers and jet skis.

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- For centuries,

the people of Nazaré have
lived by the singing sea,

reaping of its bounty.

- Here, little has changed.

The same struggle with the sea,

the last barrier
to the gray waters

of the Atlantic,

rolling in to die
amid the flying surf.

- Okay, sort of the
best way to climb a tree

is get a work shirt on first.

- That is true.

Oh, snap.

Can you get us a coconut?
- Don't fall. I swear.

- When the pandemic hit,
everything slowed down

to where I could actually

really be present
with my family.

Putting quality
time into Barrel...


Still on, Barrel?
- Yeah.

- And then every day,
teaching Theia something new.

There she goes.

- Whoa!
- Go, Theia, go!


- It was more time with Nicole,

more time with everybody.

- We live on a property
that has other families,

so looking back, you know,
Garrett grew up on a commune.

- You guys got
such good parents.

Look at all your good food.

- But our property pretty
much turned into a commune.

- I'm grateful for this place,

this land that we can
have a school on and...

We started inventorying life

and figuring out all the
things that we needed,

and boom, all of a sudden,
when the schools closed down,

there's this huge need to have
a place for the kids to be,

and Nicole started a whole
middle school, basically.

- Okay, so physics

is the science that
studies matter.

- And then we turn this
sweet, little spot here

into a little first grade.

I took the role of being teacher

for that first grade class.

- My brother has
a wonderful soul,

and that makes a
wonderful teacher.

- Then you put it down
on your flat surface.

- Wow. Check it out, CJ.

- I wanna see.
- Yes.

- You guys need to
look at the rainbow.

- You can look at the rainbow.

- The rainbow!

The rainbow's going away, but...

Barrel, get over there.

Everybody, smile!
One, two, three!

- Whoo!
- Okay, now do something crazy.

- Garrett seemed great.

I think he loved, like,
not having a choice.

It was almost like someone's
like, "No, you stay put."

And I think that's the medicine

that lockdown really
brought us, was, like,

seeing our lives,
sitting in our lives,

seeing what we've created,

are we happy with our most
immediate environment?

And we got a good
dose of that, yeah.

- Wow.

Best forecast I've
seen in a long time.

I was still looking
at weather maps,

as I always do.

I'm looking what the
next tow swell is coming

or going to one of
the outer islands

or going over to the West Side.

- He kept saying how much
he loved just being here,

and I think he really did

and then when a swell
pops up somewhere,

it's like the froth
starts and he's, like,

looking at the phone, you know?

Just, like checking out.

He's like, "Man,
there's this swell,"

and it's like he's
wanting to go.

- Here in Hawaii, you get
to go out in the ocean

every day and surf,

It's so good,

but the big waves are in Nazaré.

- He still is waiting
for that perfect swell,

the most perfect conditions
of a 100-foot wave.

He wants it to be perfect.

But I think even
deeper down inside,

it's wanting to be able to
help Cotty with his goals.

- Bom dia.
- Bom dia.

- Where are you?
- I'm home.

- What's been going on?

When I spoke to
Garrett that summer,

he was sort of saying, like,

it's the longest time
he'd ever been in Hawaii

and that he's loving it,

but for me in England,

it was quite a worrying
time sponsorship-wise.

Contracts were getting
canceled and, like,

little bits of revenue were
getting cut and... and...

You know, it was worrying.

It was a tough summer.

And then you worry about

how you're gonna
fund the winter,

how you're gonna
fund the family.

You know, surfing big waves,
it's just so expensive to do.

I think it looks like,
on social media...

All roses.

You know, like the dream.

And it is a dream, but it is...

It is full-time work.

And it's a hustle.

You're looking at every way

to make an extra few hundred
quid here or a grand there

or, you know, like,
whatever you can do

to sort of fund it, you know?

It's gonna be hard
to know, like,

how a season's gonna play out
with the coronavirus thing

and, like, how
movement's gonna be,

whether we just stay at Nazaré
or whether we chase swells


I just wanna get there now.

I wanna get there,
I wanna get set up.

I just wanna get
all my boards ready

and then I can
relax a little bit.

It's nice to be back and,
you know, without a doubt,

here is the best place to be.

Every season in Nazaré has a
lot riding on it, you know?

Like, you want to perform,
you want to be best,

you want get that wave.

It'll make your career
or break it, you know?

Or get you sponsorships or not.

This is mine.

To be a big wave surfer,

you need to be training
all the off-season

to be ready for the season.

- A lot of times,

I feel like a lot of
people are judging me.

Like, "Oh, you're too
young for this sport."

I've been surfing Nazaré
the last six years,

so I can say that I
have more experience

than some guys that
are older than me.

For me, it's the
most important thing

to have a good mentality.

- Right now, I am 18.

I just broke my Magic board.


- What's this? Like,
it was the thing?

- The Magic board.
The sick board.

- Was it?
- Yeah.

- It's gone?
- The Magic board, it's gone.

My idol is Justine.

When Justine and Fred
are in the water,

the session just get better.

- Oh, yeah.

- Justine is a big wave surfer.

Professional one and probably
one of the best in the world.

She's just, like, killing it
every time she's in the water.

She's smiling all the
time. She's humble.

She keeps being natural.

She's trying to do
better every day.

- We both, like, agree that
we're gonna put aside friends,

we're gonna put aside family,

we're gonna put aside everything

and focus on one goal:

Justine performing
the best she can.

My main focus is to
become the best I can,

drive her in Nazaré to
put her on the best wave.

- I was able to
improve way faster

because Fred was there.

- For Justine to perform,

she really needs that kind
of family feeling, you know?

To be in some place

where she's feeling home,

she's feeling safe,
she's feeling happy.

- She always have new goals,

and I love to help her
to achieve her goals.


- She's scared to tell
me because after...

will be like, "Hey,

you told me you want to
do this, so let's do it."

- Every season,

there's a lot going
on in my head.

You know, like
the fear, anxiety.

But when you push
past those things,

that's when always, you
get the biggest reward.

- For me, I'm just hoping to
have, like, an amazing season,

and I want to catch the
biggest wave of my life.

- Tropical Storm Epsilon

is now Hurricane Epsilon.

- 110-mile per hour
winds, gusts up to 130.

- It looks to pass
just east of Bermuda

before it turns northeast

and goes into the history books.

Again, Hurricane Epsilon
has formed tonight.

We saw this big
swell on the map.

It was the best-looking
swell that I've seen

with the best conditions,

and it looked like it was
gonna be the biggest wave

we'd ever seen.

- We have spent the last
ten Octobers in Nazaré.

How could we not go?

- That's just the little one.

- Two stands.
- Two stands.

I love Portugal.
I love being here.

When I'm in Hawaii, I
forget how special it is,

but once I get here
and step off the plane

and there's so much
love and support

and it's such a
beautiful country,

beautiful people.

- Uma foto?

- Okay.

Wow, yeah.

This is beautiful, huh?

So beautiful.

So nice to be home.

- Instead of seeing this
giant swell coming like,

"Oh, look at this
huge swell coming."

Like, he does say that.

He's like, "Oh, there's
a big one coming."

But now, it's like...

There's one. They're
going, Garrett.

"Oh, shoot. Okay,
big one's coming.

"Is it gonna be
perfect conditions

"where I have to go out
because it's so perfect,

"or can I say, like,

the wind's shitty enough
that I'm just not into it?"

- Yeah.

- Since I broke my shoulder,

I haven't been physically ready.

But I don't think
it's really worth it.

I don't have anything to prove.

Yeah, yeah. Now the
other one. Yeah.

If my body's not feeling 100%,

I don't really feel like
putting it in danger.

- All right, breathe.
- Pretty good, yeah.


He always hassles me.

I always make sure I
have my board with me

if I really wanted to get away,

but I was there for Cotty.

There he is.

- I just put all the stuff
in the water over there

right by the ski.

Cotty has given me
my life-changing,

most monumental
waves of my career.

- Whoa, big set, big set.

Now I really want to get
Cotty the wave of his life.

Let's go.

- Because I've surfed with
him so much and he's so good,

I can 100% trust him

and 100% know that, yeah,
he's gonna get me a wave.

I love how he drives
and I love his energy

and he's got so much knowledge,

and it's good to get that
and then get that feedback.

- What up?
- How was it?

- Yeah, so... so you...

What's up?

How's it going?

- All good.
- Good.

- Tired?
- Yeah.

Mikey got tired, yeah.

- Cool.

- Probably, I changed
life of Garrett, too.

- Lino's wherever
he wants to be,

his role is king of the
harbor, and Lino is everywhere.

We buy new boats,
we buy new Jet Skis.

Some athletes arrive,

and do I have money
for the Jet Ski,

and we share our Jet Skis,
we make business together.

Put the guys on the water.

- Lino is one of those guys that

the first time you
see him, you're like,

a little bit scared,
like, "Whoa."


- But then, he's just
like a good person.

Always trying to help.

Hey, hey, hey, hey.

- Who do you know that's
coming over right now?

Who's coming?

- So it's October of 2020,

and I can remember
sitting on my couch

and getting this phone call.

It's from Lucas Chumbo.

Says that one of
the biggest swells

of our lifetime's
coming in at Nazaré.

- I was in Desert Point
chasing a super nice swell,

and my phone start ringing.

And, like, there was
Lucas and Michelle.

You good? Good to see you.

- How's it going, nasty?
- Good, good.

- Good?
- Yeah.

Another huge swell at Nazaré.

It's like, "Oh, so
much adrenaline."

And it's pretty amazing.
Good to be back.

- Well, I woke up at 5:00
this morning and it was fog.

From the hotel, you couldn't
even see the lighthouse.

It's gonna be really big.

It's gonna be interesting to see

how big it actually gets.

I hope it just
doesn't peak at night.

I got old, man.

- Now, say you love
surfing more than anything,

but surfing for
you somewhat ended,

then you pick up a camera

and you're right
there in the water

and you're in the game,
you're in the ocean,

you're right there
with all your friends.

Well, like Laurent.

For him, it's for sure

just like trying to
get that best wave.

He's trying to get
that best shot.

Oh, here we go.

Here we go.

That's one... This
is the shot I like.

Look. How big is that wave?

Look at this guy on
the right charging it.

Oh, he pearled!

See? Now, watch this.

Like, the lip hit and I
watch the lip bounce from it.

This is when you know
it's a gnarly wave,

when that lip bounce
comes out of the frame.

Yeah, I'm stoked on that one.

Here's a good spot to be,

because you're away
from all that shit.

You can see it all, you know?

You can see the first peak
really well from here, also.

There's a lot of guys
shooting waves these days.

Everybody wants a piece of it.

- Here we go. We're surfing.

My family, we're
all born at Nazaré.

We are all 100% locals.

After the boom here at
Nazaré, I actually thought,

"Hey, I could have
a shot at that."

- Joao's starting to, like,

really get good
at his drone, man.

He's super low.

He's getting some
really cool shots.

- When I get really
close to the surfer

and you can see the
expression of the surfer,

you can see the water moving,

it's a totally different
way of shooting waves.

Whoo! What a rush, man.

Man, it's just like surfing.

I think about it when I'm up

and think about it
when I'm asleep.

You there?

Hi, Theia.


- We're testing something.

- Listen, because of corona,

they're not gonna let
you up on the lighthouse.


And Mommy has to go make
sure Daddy stays safe

so that he can come home.


- Fuck, I've been looking
at this far too much.

They only update
every four hours.

I check it, like, 20
times every four hours,

looking at the same stuff.

A storm like this might never
happen again, know what?

Yeah, it can be
another ten years.

You spend, like, years and
years wanting something,

and then it gets to the
day and it's like, "Fuck."

It's like, "Fuck, did
I really want this?"

- I'm ready to go.
Just waiting the waves.

Super excited for that, though.

I think we're gonna have,
like, a 100-foot wave, maybe.

I don't know. Let's see.

We are keeping looking
the waves all the time.

- Oh, my gosh.

Jesus. Oh, my gosh.

It's breaking, like,
a mile out to sea.

- I feel confident for tomorrow.

I have, like, a lot
of energy and anxiety

to catch, like, a
good wave tomorrow.

Like, a really big one.

Maybe... maybe the
biggest of my life.

We don't know.

We'll see.

- We could see the waves,
like, from everywhere.

It was, like, totally visible
from all the sides of Nazaré.

- I couldn't sleep for a while.

I was still with
Indonesian time, like,

my head was freaking out
with the size of the waves.

- Yeah, just making homemade
burritos for lunch today.

I don't know if you
guys heard it out there,

but, um, I walked out,

and all of a sudden, I
could feel the ground

on one wave just go boom,
I was like, "That's big."

- Ready.

- You don't usually get a
swell that size in October.

You couldn't ask for
more to start the season.

- You know, the hype of
this swell was so intense.

It was the biggest swell ever.

Maybe the 100-foot wave
was gonna be living today.

- Sebastian got a bomb.

I wouldn't be surprised if
that's a new world record,

'cause you really
get the canyon effect

and you went to the bottom,
real deep, and bottom turn,

and that thing is...
That thing's huge.

- I told Lucas in one of the
biggest waves I ever seen,

it was massive.

I look at him and I say,
"Hey, what do you want?"

And he said, "Yeah, I
want it, I want it,"

so I speed up as
much as I could.

I slingshot him.

- As soon as he got
out of the wave,

the cliff was like,"

Everybody screaming.

- I think it was the
most amount of people

ever on the cliff.

You know? Like, it was insane.

- I've been out
there pretty much

every swell the
last three years.

More people than I've ever seen.

I think because it was COVID
and everybody was locked down

and nobody's working and
everybody's just like,

"Shoot, I'm going
to the beach."

- Can you give me your
relative location?

- It's almost impossible
to keep eyes on you guys.

- I think it, like,
surprised everyone

how many people
turned up in October.

That many Jet Skis,
that many people,

and everyone's hungry, you know?

Like, everyone wants it.

- A lot of guys, they wanted
to break the Guinness record,

so every single wave
that was huge...

With, like, four Jet
Skis, five Jet Skis,

six Jet Skis.

- For me and Cotty,

we kinda just stuck to
our own, little thing

and did what we wanted to do

and we were very patient,
we got our goals set.

- Cotty was super
focused, had a good plan.

He just wanted to get
one good, big right

is what he was hoping for.

And we waited and
waited and waited

and finally, one came.

It was a big one. It
was a challenging ride.

He could barely
stay on the board.

He said he was going
faster than he's ever gone.

- We were doing speeds of,
like, 75 kilometers an hour.

It felt good.

Like, the speed, the sensation.

Didn't fall off.

You know, and it felt amazing.


- That thing was huge, huh?

- Yeah!

- Good wave!

Right, yeah!

- It's Christmas!

There hadn't been this big
of a day in quite a while...



So there was all
this chatter around

"Guinness Book of World
Records" this, like,

biggest wave ever ridden.

People were going out
there with that reason,

and I never surfed big waves
till I try to go win awards

or try to get the tallest wave.

It's more like I want to
focus on my performance.

- Kai was just on
fire. Unstoppable.

Just... he can do anything
he wants on the waves.

He's a machine.

- Since Kai arrived at
Nazaré for the first time,

everything changed.

Yeah, completely.

He's making heads

With his approach.

It's a very aggressive
and high-performance way

of approaching a wave,

which people were
just not ready to see.

- Kai Lenny with the
huge airs, with the 360s,

for me, it's the best
guy from that day.

- Those performances, you
know, like Kai and Lucas,

it's what you dreamed
about as a kid.

You know, it's a computer game.

You know, you have
to be super confident

to be busting airs
on 60-foot waves.

If I had the skills to do it,
I'd definitely be doing it.

- After catching a
ton of big waves,

I decided, "All right,

let me try to do
something different here."


And so I had my
pull with a GoPro

to show someone what it's
like to ride this giant wave.

Which way? Left? Yeah.

So I ended up dropping
into this wave

and it was really
bumpy and I'm like,

you know, I thought
everything was fine

and the wave ended up flaring

and, like shooting out
and just eating me.

I remember falling underwater
and being like, "Oh, my gosh.

Well, at least the shot's gonna
be really cool," you know?

The water shooting out over me?

I remember popping
up and being like,

"All right, I'm ready
for the pickup,"

and just Lucas going
the opposite direction.

And in the video, you
can see me going, "Hey!"

Hey, hey!

Hey! Hey!

And I was like, just trying
to get anyone's attention.

It was like, "Hey, I
just want to make sure

"you know where I'm at

so you can track me when I get
dragged 100 yards underwater."

And I can remember, "Okay,
here comes another wave."


I got so violated underwater.

And so the one driving force

to get me through that
experience was literally like,

"All right, stick
the camera up high!

Really get it!" You know?

Like, own it.

And I was trying to
stay above surface

as long as I could before the
next wave would land on me

'cause I wanted the wave
to get as close as possible

to get the shot.

And I'm kind of removing myself

from the horror of
that experience.

And then there was a huge one

that was just
absolutely the worst.

And I
remember just getting

so pounded, pulverized,

oh, the GoPro's starting
to slip out of my hands,

and then I popped
up and I'm like,

"Please, someone,
just pick me up."

And then I saw Sebastian
come zooming in.

I just was like,
"Hey! I'm over here!"

Oh, fuck!

Holy shit!

Thank you so much!

Oh, I got so fucking
pounded, dude.

- Really?
- Ah!

- There's not enough
waves for everyone,

so there was definitely
some tension in the water.

- The biggest wave of
the day comes once.

- We were in the middle
of the pandemic, you know.

People were scared
during that time.

Now you have these big,
scary waves coming,

so I think it just, you know,
increased everybody's, like,

fear and survival mode.

The wave is passing you and
you're still on the rope,

and, "Come on, Fred! Go, go!"

I remember, like,
screaming at Fred.

Like, "Go, go, go
faster, go faster!

- I did have my eye on Fred
and Justine here and there,

and I noticed that they
were kind of struggling.

Either somebody would come
behind them and take the wave

or they would go
for the wrong wave.

It just didn't seem
like they were in sync.

- We were starting
to argue, and, like,

"Yeah, let's stop it."

Like, "We're not
here to argue."

But then, I see Garrett.

I'm like, "Hey, Garrett.

Do you mind, like, putting
Justine on some waves?"

And Justine was like,
"What the fuck?"

- You guys are
farthest out, correct?

- It's pretty big and it's
coming in on the north.

It's actually huge.

- Garrett put her, like,
exactly at the right spot.

Justine's boyfriend, Fred,
is a really good driver,

but we cannot compare

with Garrett's
experience at this place.

- It's a real pleasure
putting her on waves,

'cause she's such a good surfer.

Everything just fell in place.

She just rolled
down this monster.

It was amazing. She
rode it so well.

- I really love Justine.
I think she's awesome.

I'm glad she got that wave,

and I'm glad Garrett
put her on it.

- When I was watching
Justine on the Ski,

I was like,

"I'm nervous.
It's really big."

- My first wave, I
was going too fast.

That is like a huge wipeout.

I got really pounded.

I came to the surface

and my dad was
looking for me like

with eyes like this,
like, "Where is he?"

- I was like, "Okay, now
I need to catch a wave."

- My father look
at me and was like,

"So do you wanna
go on this one?"

I was like, "Yeah,
sure. Let's go."

I was so fast, I was going
straight to the rocks.

I saw two Skis passing
in front of me,

and I was like, "Okay, if
I fell here, I'm dead."

I just needed to go
straight and survive.

Going down that wave,

I don't have a word to describe.

It was like helpless
with adrenaline

with fear and
everything together.

When I finished the wave,

I heard everyone on
the lighthouse, like,

just cheering and screaming.

- On that day,

he really took the biggest wave

of his life, for sure.

I remember he's coming
out of the wave like...

you could see his heart coming
out of his chest on that wave.

- I was just like the
happiest guy on Earth.

Like, I did it.

- We were like, "Okay,
it's a sign. It's over."

- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪

♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪

♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 ♪

♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪

- ♪ Will it get some
wind for the sailboat ♪

- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪
- ♪ And it could get those ♪

♪ For it is were ♪
- ♪ 7, 8 ♪

- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪
- ♪ It could be franky ♪

- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪
- ♪ It could be franky ♪

- ♪ 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪

- ♪ It could be very
fresh and clean ♪

- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪
- ♪ It could be a balloon ♪

- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪

- ♪ All these are the
days, my friends ♪

- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪

- ♪ These are the
days, my friends ♪

- ♪ 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪

♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 ♪

♪ 1, 2, 3, 4 ♪

♪ 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪

♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 ♪

- ♪ Will it get some
wind for the sailboat ♪

- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪

- ♪ Will it get some wind?
- ♪ 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ♪