100 Foot Wave (2021–…): Season 1, Episode 6 - More Than Just A Wipeout - full transcript

Finale: After the competition suddenly ends, the surfers reflect on their passions for tow-surfing.

Are you wondering how healthy the food you are eating is? Check it - foodval.com
You can look
back into history,

and you can interview
a lot of people,

and they're gonna tell
you about this notion

of the 100-foot wave.
The biggest waves

in the world are
there in Nazaré.

It's really become one of
the most famous surf spots

in the world right now.

challenge has been watched

all around the world.

Without my family
around, a lot of times I think,

"Oh, I could do the contest,
but I wasn't ready."

You're gonna see
thousands and thousands of people

just covering the cliffs.

Every important big wave
surfer, everyone's there.

We are expecting
some epic performances.

The world's best big wave
surfers all pushing the limits.

Kai is excited,
been training for it all year.

Kai Lenny,

he's just a
once-in-a-generation freak.

wants the same thing,

that wave that's
gonna make your career

and change your life.

Good morning and welcome
to Nazaré in Portugal.

The World Surf
League's Big Wave Tour

now brings its focus to the
shores of Western Europe.

Where's the limit?
We're gonna find out.

The World Surf League

runs surfing competitions
all around the world.

You couldn't plan it any better.

And most of those
events are held in waves

that'll be from
2 feet to 6 feet.

The offshoot of it
is the Big Wave Tour

where the waves need to be

at least 35 feet on the
face and preferably bigger.

A humungous wave pulling
into a big barrel!

Nazaré has been a
incredible resource

for running big wave events

because there are
so many big waves.

We ran three editions
of the Nazaré challenge

as a paddle event,
and it was radical.

I can remember going there

for the Nazaré challenge
paddle-in surfing competition,

and I remember seeing these
giant waves and going,

"How did I get myself
into this mess?"

The night before
the competition,

I was laying in my bed going,

"I really hope I
don't die tomorrow."

Oh! Oh, wow.

The reality of it is
we had too many days

where the waves were
just too big to paddle.

- Oh, no.
- Oh!

Will go over the
handlebars, so to speak,

and take a wipeout.

Oh, my gosh!

Getting absolutely steamrolled!

World champions were
just terrified of it

and were just getting destroyed.

After that, we just went,

"Look, you know,
maybe tow surfing

"is the right format

for this spot because
it's never too big."

You know, I ended up
surviving the event,

but I was like,

"I'm okay without
ever coming here."

Pretty much all my friends
from Hawaii were like,

"We're not coming
back here ever again."

And it's odd because
over the years,

it's completely changed,
and now I long to go

to a place like Nazaré.

I love Nazaré.

It's one of my favorite
big waves in the world

'cause it's such a challenge,

and I've just decided to
accept that challenge.

Check out these
monster 100-foot waves

off of Portugal.

The biggest wave ever surfed,

as high as 100 feet.

To put that in perspective,

that is taller than an
eight-story building.

Surfers are always looking
for the next great thing.

It often breaks those brave
or crazy board riders.

Severe wipeouts and waves
of mind-boggling heights.

What happens here happens
nowhere else in the world.

- Biggest wave ever surfed.
- The biggest wave ever...

- Will be the biggest wave...
- The biggest wave...

The 100-foot wave.

The Nazaré Tow Surfing
Challenge really was

the first event
of its kind ever,

a performance orientated,
purely tow surfing,

competitive event at this arena

where thousands of
people were watching.

Welcome back to live action

from the Nazaré
Tow Surf Challenge.

Prize out here today, best ride.

We are underway,

so heat one will
be one hour long.

Our goal with the format

for the Nazaré Tow
Surfing Challenge was

to have as much action
going on as possible

without jet skis
crashing into each other

and too much going on

where you lose track
of the surfers.

So we had a priority system

that had never been used before

where we had a big screen up
on the side of the lighthouse

and a judge that would say,

"Hey, once you caught a wave,

basically, you go to
the end of the line."

Black is clear.

Here we go, Andrew Cotton,

Team Great Britain, big fade.

He did ride that
wave really well.

He put himself in
a great position.

That was Lucas Chianca,

massive wedge of a peak.

Now look at this thing.

That's one of the
biggest waves we've seen.

Tom Butler that was.

That was a very, very tall one.

Right now Kai
Lenny got involved.

What you expect from him,
he's gonna do stuff like that,

complete spin, 360 degrees,
lands with control,

and then drops back
in and loses control.

Oh, and what a tumble!

Wow, that was crazy stuff.

There was thousands and
thousands of people.

That was pretty astonishing

just to see that
amount of people.

I felt like a gladiator
in Thunderdome.

We're over here
to see Andrew surf

for the first time.

Andrew Cotton, that is.

We've seen him

scores of times on videos and TV

but never actually been here,
so it's amazing to see it.

We gotta manifest
one really good wave

for Cotty and one
really good wave

for Tom in this next seed.

I'm gonna go up there and study
so that I can call the wave.

First peak, first peak.

Here we go, doubles.

Nice, yeah, here we go.

We got Cotty on the inside.

Oh, and they both peak
off, so that's a share.

That is Justine Dupont,
and that is a massive wave.

She has her wings out,
stabilizing herself.

She is next-level.

I could see her
winning actually,

beating all the guys.

I would love that.

She kicks out, and she's happy,

as well she should be.

Justine Dupont, you just
surfed your half hour heat.

- How was it out there?
- I was so lucky.

I had a really nice wave at
the beginning of the heat,

so then we was pretty
confident and just having fun.

Tell us about the
conditions today.

Is this everything you'd hoped
for for the event to run?

Yeah, it's really good.

It's not that much wind,

so we are not used to
have this condition,

like, that perfect.

Right now, I'd like to
be in the water, yeah,

'cause it's so smooth.

This is the kind of
day that I live for.

- Looks like Maya Gabeira.
- Wow!

And this wave's
got a wall on it.

This is the kind
of wave you want

if you can get around that.

This is commitment right here.


Well, now she's gonna deal
with some white water here.

The noise, the power that
exploded all around me.

I mean, I don't know
how I would have reacted

on a free surf, but
because I was competing,

I saw that bomb, I didn't
even think about it.

I went all the
way to the bottom,

and then I saw that there was
no way I was gonna be able

to turn at that point.

I just held on.

An explosion of white water
gets the better of Maya.

I got really lucky
because I just held enough

that I was thrown
forward and not down.

And now we get to see Sebastian

and his ability to get in.

And there's the pickup
for Maya, all good.

I just got so close
to something so scary

that I must say that it took
a lot of my confidence away.

I was one athlete
until that point,

and then I became
another athlete

for the other part
of the competition

where I was like, "Okay",

"I don't want play that
close to fire, you know?

"Like, I want to surf well,

but, like, this is not
worth, you know, my life."

Not this one but the next one.

Where are you guys?

He just rode the wave, I think.

- There's Cotty!
- He's still riding.

Spotting is really tough,
yeah, really tough.

I'm just trying
to study the wave,

so I could choose better,
but it's so challenging

to pick the right wave.

I got a lot of sympathy
for the spotters.

Riding up the big one!

- Can you tell me where red is?
- Where's red?

I know he found
it more difficult

than what he envisioned,

and I think that's
probably because he's used

to being out in the sea.

When you're in the water,
you're more focused

on just what's around you,
not every aspect of it.

Red's first priority now, yeah?

You guys have priority.
Wait for the bomb.

There's... looks
like a bomb coming.

Looks like a set coming.

Tell Cotty I'll
let you guys know

if it's a good right.

The rights are
hollow and amazing.

If it's a good right,
tell him to go right.

You guys are priority. This
next wave is really good.

This next wave right here.

I was surfing,

and Garrett called
a wave on the radio.

It was a left-hander
and a right-hander.

- It was a perfect peak.
- You could've gone either way.

We were down at, like, fifth
priority at this point.

And we saw the other team going,

and we had to wait to
see what they did first.

I was just looking left.

I didn't see what was
going on behind me

or over my shoulder
on the right.

When we figured out that
they were going left,

"Oh, scoop me on the right."

- Oh.
- Red, 1.5 left.

- Left, left, left, left.
- And blue.

- Blue going right.
- Left, left, left, left.

- Left, left, left.
- Oh, my God, that's a...

Oh, my God!

That was Kai?

Kai just had this wave
that just was that wave

that everyone draws during
their algebra class.

It was this perfect
70-foot barrel.

Kai Lenny, just
in from last heat,

and, mate, looked like
you're having fun out there.

Yeah, it's super fun.

Man, it's super sick to
just be here right now.

Both Lucas and I want to
ride, like, an 80-footer

if one eventually comes in.

Well, one heat to go.

You seem to be in the
nominations so far.

Good luck with the
rest of the event.

Thank you.

- There's tons of waves.
- Don't worry.

There's tons of waves.
Let everybody go.

We can hear when you talk,

but all we hear is "krrrr"
when you're not talking.

I think he knew that he was
losing it towards the end,

you know, like "Ahh!"

Like, 'cause it was, like, all
over the shot and that like.

Left inside, go, go, go, go.

Way over, way over! This
next wave is the wave.

That's where you
don't want to be.

Second, third peak.

- "Oh, over here, over there!
- Left, right, left."

You know, that's,
like, classic Garrett.

How much time?

Time is 2 minutes 45.

- Two minutes, guys.
- Let's get you a nugget.

There is a big set coming.
There is a big set coming.

Get on the rope.
Get on the rope.

Get on the rope.

This is the wave. This
is the magic wave.

Go for this wave.

- Fuck!
- What?


Towards the end of
that final heat,

I was towing Cotty into a wave,

and then, yeah, it kind of
came across the radio like,

"Ski's down, ski's down."

Is that Hugo?

- Whoa!
- Oh, my God.

We lost a ski. We lost a ski.

There he is, inside!

Alex and Hugo were
on the inside.

They didn't have backup safety.

They were going back out,

and there was this white water
and then a sideways wave,

and they flew over
the sideways wave,

landed sideways, hit
the ski really hard,

and I think Alex
knocked out on impact.

And then both of them
were in the water,

and Hugo's there trying
to get back on the ski.

And that ski is
gonna go over now.

- Oh-ho-ho!
- That we were just told...

Literally end of the day.

Anything can happen.

And they're still
underwater, not popping up.

And then everybody
realized this piece of foam

that they saw floating
wasn't just a piece of foam

or a life jacket. It was Alex.

There he is, there he is.

- Oh, it's a body.
- Oh, shoot.

It's the second
time that we ever

really see a body
floating out there.

First time was mine.
Now it's the second.

There was no real info.

It was just... no one
really knew what happened.

It wasn't until I
was on social media,

saw the video, and then it
was just like, "Oh, shit."

Extraordinary pictures
that have come in

from Nazaré in Portugal.

Alex Botelho got wiped
out while on a jet ski.

Botelho was unconscious

when lifeguards pulled
him from the water.

It looked like he
broke his back there,

and then, boom, wave washes him,

like the heaviest thing,
and then he's just out.

He's just out, and,
like, there's no skis.

- So you saw the whole...
- Well, I... dude, it was live.

- Oh.
- It was live.

But yeah, heavy.

It's hard.

I surfed the contest
really expecting my body,

if eventually, it
floated unconscious,

to be grabbed and taken
to the beach very quickly.

And to see that, you know,
it didn't go that way

with a friend of ours,
you know, it's just...

I don't know, it's scary.

A lot of preparation went
into having a safety plan,

but in the end,

Alex Botelho was
not riding a wave.

He was just getting a lift
back out with his partner,

and the jet ski crashed.

If you attended all
the safety meetings,

that wasn't something that
everyone was looking for.

Luckily, Alemao followed Hugo,
or Alex wouldn't be here.

He was watching for other
teams at the same time,

but he made sure that
he went in and got Alex.

Alemao's the real hero.

It definitely makes me think,

"Is it all worth it,
this big wave riding?"

Then when you're
out in the water,

everything changes.

You're like a kid
in a candy store.


How was today, Cotty?

Yeah, it was all right.

Couple big waves,

but sort of a bit
of a weird one,

ending like it did.

Hopefully, he's all right.

Public speaking is one
of my biggest fears.

And now I do it for a job, so...

That's way worse than
surfing 80-foot waves.

Andrew, Tom, thank you
very much for doing this.

First of all, tell us what
conditions have been like

for big wave surfing there
over the last couple of days.

Today the swell sort of peaked

probably at like 60 feet maybe?

And it was the
Nazaré Tow Challenge,

the WSL Nazaré Tow Challenge.

Yeah, it's been a great day.

And how are you getting
on in the competition?

We actually... we
don't know yet.

We surfed all day today,

and we find out tonight at 7:00.

There's an award ceremony
at the lighthouse.

I hate to remind you, Andrew,

of what happened
there a few years ago

when you had a
spectacular wipeout...

Never forget this part.

Nearly ended your career.

How are things
progressing from then on?

Yeah, you know, yeah, the
wipeout a couple years ago,

you know, obviously,
it was traumatic,

but it was just an injury and...

Whenever I do an interview,

it's all about the broken back.

It's all about the injury.

It's like, shit, I've
surfed so many good waves,

you know, like,

and all they want to
talk about is injury,

which is kind of sad, isn't it?


you know, no one really cares
about the ones you make.

They want to see about the
ones you don't, you know?

How many times have you
been asked about your...

Wipeout, it's just
like, oh, my God.

- All right, mate, nice job.
- See you later.

I'm so glad you
guys are all right.

Thanks for looking
after Tom for me.

- We did good.
- We did get some good waves.

- Yeah, we got some good ones.
- Nice one, mate.

- find a shirt, eh?

You've got one in
that camper van.

- I have, yeah.

- See you in a little bit!
- See you in a bit!

- Hi, mate.
- Hi.

Sorry I wasn't
that good up there.

It's so hard.

Yeah, you're fine.

It's good. It was good.

- It's hard though, eh?
- It's so gnarly.

Hard, eh?

Did anyone get any...
what was the...

Your last wave was
probably a contender.

- Nobody shot it.
- What?

They were all
shooting the... Alex.

- Nobody shot the last wave?
- No.

From what they were doing,
your wave should be top five,

the last wave.

Last wave.

Yeah, but they couldn't find it.

- That's just like...
- It doesn't matter, does it?


- And then...
- All right, I'm gonna go.

Okay, good surfing.

Basically, the rules
of the biggest wave

within an event really
depend on the video

and photographic evidence.

Andrew Cotton caught
an amazing wave

the last minute or
two of the challenge,

and tragically, it
was not captured.

I remember them saying, like,
they counted Cotty's wave

in the score and that he caught
it before the horn blast.

But everything was
happening on the inside

with Alex and Hugo,

and the attention
obviously went to that.

How this can happen

when you have, like,
eight, ten cameras?

They were pointing
all the cameras

to the accident to the point
they lost Cotty's wave,

which was one of the
biggest on that day.

I looked up, and I saw
it, and it was a stunner,

but unfortunately, not
only everyone working

on the event but
everyone, apparently,

who had a camera who
was attending the event

looked the other way.

So it was not up
for consideration

in the event, and nor was
it up for consideration

for the biggest
wave of the year.

Until we can have a camera

over every square
centimeter of the Earth,

a few things are
gonna go missing.

- Hello.
- Hey, Mom.

- How are you my darling?
- Well done.

You did so well.

You didn't even know
which one I was.

But I think I managed
to see sometimes.

No, it's great.

I'm just so glad that
I was able to see.

It was brilliant.

Yes, we were fortunate to
be still out there watching

on the final wave.

And it really, really
was a big wave,

but I don't think an awful lot
of people did see it, though.

All right, my darling.

Love you lots. We'll
see you in a bit, okay?

Oh, it's just so
good to see you.

It's been a really exciting day.

I loved it.

- See you in a bit.
- See you later.

Cotty loves surfing big waves.

It's all he wants to do.

He is hungry, super hungry.

I've surfed a few big waves

but never really

you know, never really

never really won anything
or really had that moment.

- Oh, we got Seb.
- You're gonna come up.

Thank you, Seb, or you
want to say something?

I just came from the hospital.

Alex has a problem
with his lung,

a lot of water in there,
but he will push through.

And Hugo will also be
kept there overnight

but probably also be fine.

And he asked me
to pass a message,

which is that he really
enjoyed the day with all of us.

He's stoked that
everyone charged,

and he's happy to come back
and see every one of us.

That's the message.

Beautiful stuff.

So to the... unique
to this event,

we have the surfers voting
on all of the awards tonight.

It is something where you
can't blame the judging

because you are all
the judges as athletes.

I'm now gonna introduce
the highlights of today,

so please pay attention
to this very closely,

so you guys can
get your votes in.

The idea was we'd watch
everyone's rides back,

and then we'd all judge 'em.

Surfing is more of an art
than a sport and hard to judge

in a lot of ways.

It was just about
the gut feeling.

As a surfer participating
in the event,

what spoke to you?

Well, there you go,
round of applause

for an incredible day
of surfing right there.

We'll call up each team,

so when you hear your
name, please come up here

and cast your vote.

Team Brazil.

Rodrigo Koxa and Pedro
Scooby, please come on up.

Big round of applause
for Team Brazil.

I like the way the
contest was organized,

but I don't like
compete, you know?

For me, big waves,

it's about you
and God, you know?

Kai Lenny and Lucas
Chianca, come on up please.

But of course, it's amazing
for the big wave community,

and I respect a lot.

Our tabulator here
working quickly.

And first award, women's
wave of the day over here,

and it will go to
Justine Dupont!

Do you recall the
wave of the day?

Yeah, one was kind of special.

- Right on.
- Thank you very much, Justine.

Which now brings us to
the men's wave of the day.

I think that this one, the
wave did a lot of the work,

but the teamwork got the wave.

So congratulations to Kai
Lenny for the wave of the day.

Kai, I want to ask you first.

That wave was pretty special.

You ended up splitting
the peak with somebody

on that one, right?

I think it was Team Britain
that was going on the left,

and I yelled at Lucas, I'm
like, "Let's go right!"

And he's like, "Right, really?"

'Cause it was gonna go
straight to the cliff.

And he just whipped me up it,

and the wave was so smooth,

I didn't know how
big it was behind me.

If you were to ask any surfer
to draw the perfect wave,

it would probably be
something like that, you know?

- Wouldn't you agree?
- Yeah.

To be honest, I remember
seeing Kai on the right,

and I don't even remember
seeing what happened

on the left.

That was how good the right was.


Congratulations, you two.

Hindsight is 20/20, and
I've been on the other side

of the stick as well
where, you know,

you could've gone on
the wave of the day.

I think it happens to
every big wave surfer

where you shoulda,
coulda, "Why didn't I?"

But you just have to
go back out there,

and hope you get another
opportunity at it.

Well, you might
stay up on the stage

because the next one, you
guys are the best team.

All right, so you won
the best team as well.

One more round of applause
for all the competitors.

Don't think there's any video,

but there's a still,

which is just nice, you know?

But there'll be
bigger waves tomorrow,

bigger waves Monday.

It's just another...
another wave.

- Oh, I gotta go.
- All right.

All right.

- See you in a bit.
- I'll see you in the morning.

No, he's gone. He's in there.

I should've done the contest.

There's a small percentage
of me that wanted to.

The teams are gonna
get more organized.

They're gonna figure
out how to do better.

And it's gonna get harder.

It's just like the
paddle contest.

I should've done the first year,

but I had a broken arm.

Now this one, I
got a broken foot.

There's some weird
little juju going on.

I don't know what's wrong.

Gotta figure out
what I'm doing wrong,

or maybe I'm not
doing anything wrong.

I don't know.

What would have you done,
though, that no one else...

I would've got barreled.

Plain and simple, I
would've got barreled.

I would have found
the right barrel,

and I would've got blown
out of a monster barrel,

and that's what would've
won the whole thing.

At 52, that would have
been pretty inspiring.

If it would have been
perfect conditions,

Garrett would have
surfed the contest.

I think he was
just feeling fear,

fear of loss or fear
of another injury.

Garrett ten years ago was, like,

he wanted every wave under
the sun, you know, like,

he was hungry,

but now a growing
fear of wipeouts,

the impact, the dangers.

Garrett's had a lot.

He's had more than
most, isn't he?

He's had a lot of beatings.

Oh, my God.


The last four years of injuries,

he hasn't surfed
as much, you know?

Before I got hurt,

I really enjoyed
being underwater,

enjoyed getting pounded,
enjoyed every moment,

and Mavericks smacked me down.

The pain was so
severe for so long

that it changed
my outlook a bit.

And then in G-Land,
during that wipeout,

it was spooky getting pounded

and thinking about my
family while I'm underwater,

not being there for them.

Definitely weighs on you a bit.

Big wave surfing is one of
the most challenging sports

one can undertake

because no matter how
good you really are,

you're going to
reach a situation

that'll nearly send
you into oblivion.

The fear that comes
with big wave surfing

is obviously fear for your life.

You can't go out into the
sea and not be scared.

Fear is an ever-present emotion,

yet you have to go out
into certain conditions.

You have obligations
to yourself,

to your own drive.

Whenever you let go of the
tow rope to catch a wave,

you don't know
what's coming next.

You have no control
over these elements.

The only control you've
got is over yourself.

There's a nervous energy there.

But then there's a moment
in time it just disappears.

A deathly calm comes over you,

and the fear completely drains.

We know it's a sense of flying.

It's like being a bird.

We know that it's all-consuming,

like, you're not thinking
about anything else.

You're completely
absorbed in the moment.

Time goes slow, you know?

A second probably equates
to more like ten seconds.

You become part of something
that is greater than you,

part of nature, part
of the universe.

It's the closest I've
ever felt to euphoria.

I feel like I'm Icarus,

and I'm getting so
close to the sun,

but my wax wings
haven't melted just yet.

They're putting their
life on the line

every day when they go there.

Every wave can be
their last wave.

It's what makes them feel alive.

It is magical, and I think,

once you get a connection
with the ocean,

I think it can be
with you forever.

That feeling is the
feeling that I think

you end up chasing
for your whole life.

I've been surfing
now for 33 years,

and I'm still chasing
that same feeling.

And that's why we pursue it.

That's why we do
it our whole life.

That's why we fly
around the world

because there's no one alive
that when riding a wave,

wouldn't experience that feeling

and not want to go back out

and spend their
whole life doing it.

We were trying to do this
remote control jet ski set up,

and we're attempting
to capture the wave

from a bunch of
different angles.

And then in the
midst of all that,

Garrett I think
decided to catch a wave

all of a sudden.

We're looking up,
and this perfect,

smooth right's up at
third, fourth peak.

I'm like, that's like the dream.

It's just so fun.

I'm thinking, okay,
I'm gonna go take Cotty

on a couple waves,
and then he's like,

"Mate, you want one?"

I'm like, "Uh, okay."

It's been four years
since, you know, like,

he had a really big wave.


Yeah, boy!

Just all follow our hearts,
everything will go great.

I get on the rope,
and there's the set.


- There's Garrett.
- Garrett!

- Garrett.
- Whoo!

Fear is something we choose.

Fear is when we're
not in the moment.

When we choose to
think about the past

or think about the future...
Two things that don't exist.

For the big waves,

the only thing that
exists is right now.

He got a bomb wave, but
then it was disaster.

He got pounded.

He went over the fall.

And then he got washed
up on the beach.

Saw him on the beach
on his knees there,

and I thought he was hurt.

He just got a horrific wipeout.

He got two big
waves on the head,

held under for 35, 40 seconds,

and he came back smiling.

Five years I don't
get pounded, so whoo!

Feels so good!

You did a good job.

I've been letting
fear consume me.

I wasn't sure if I enjoyed
being underwater anymore.

I really enjoyed it.

Yeah, when I saw that big
white water coming at me,

I wasn't afraid, and then
when I went over the falls,

and the next one,
I wasn't afraid,

so it was, like, back
to normal, pretty cool.

It was so good
that that happened.

It was a sense of relief.

The fear?

As of now, I feel the
fear has disappeared.


GMAC is back!

Look at how good it is up there.

Oh, I might have to go back out.

- I think the spark is back.
- Garrett's back.

And he's gonna ride
a 100-foot wave here.

If the 100-foot day comes,
and the conditions are right,

I'll definitely go
out there and ride it.

There's no doubt about that.

Obrigado, everybody!

Welcome to Nazaré.

Never a dull moment.

Breaking news, stay at home.

That is the order tonight
from four state governors.

Governor David Ige announcing

a mandatory two-week quarantine

for all travelers
arriving in Hawaii

beginning Thursday,
March 26th...

My foot's all better.

No pain at all.

Gotta keep you outside, okay?

Outside, outside.

This is probably the longest
we've ever been home.


what's this one?

- Sage.
- Sage.

- Whoa.
- Yeah.

Sometimes it's great,
and other times,

it's not great.

Being trapped with my
family has been interesting.

It's been beautiful just
surfing regular waves

and fun waves, and just
slowing down enough,

and remembering to enjoy it.

Garrett's also really connecting

with what's really important
to himself and his life.

I've actually been just relaxing

with the family.

Definitely start
appreciating everything

out of the water more,

not having to base
everything on the next ride

and needing that fix, that rush.

The best time of my life
right now, the best time.

Me come.

You're gonna go on the jet ski?

- Yeah.
- You want to go with Barrel?

Yes, Daddy.

Kind of good to be home, really.

I can't remember the last time
I was at home for this long.

The work thing is eliminated.

It's been good to enjoy
time with the kids.

But at the same time,

as soon as Portugal's
open for surfing again,

I wanna get back down there.

It's what I've gotta
be doing, really.

I actually miss Nazaré
very much right now.

It's the only thing I'm
missing from this quarantine

'cause we're
supposed to be there.

As soon as we can go
back, we're going back.

I'll probably be more
prepared than I've ever been.

Definitely the best
shape I've been in

since I got injured.

Tighten those abs!

My body's strong enough.

My ligaments, my tendons,
my muscles are all solid.

Shoulder and foot are ready.

He's looking good
and feeling good,

and he was out
there surfing today,

and he got some waves.

Couldn't get off the bottom,

and the board was
going like that,

and then I hit the
bottom really hard,

and then I kicked off the bottom

like Superman.

Training for next season,
it's continuous, you know.

Like, being ready
physically, mentally.

I think Garrett's been a
really positive role model,

and to surf big
waves into your 50s,

that's inspiring
for me to keep fit,

keep injury free, keep focused.

Cotty's ready. Cotty wants it.

100%, if it comes
and Cotty's there,

he wants it.

And I really feel
it going to Cotty

'cause he's given me
all my best waves.

How many 100-foot waves have
ever broken on planet Earth?

10, 20, 30, thousands?

There's a lot of luck involved
with big wave surfing.

But you make your
own luck, don't you?

CJ, if he wants it,

then it could
easily come to him.

- I definitely could.
- I know that I can.

Sometimes I don't want to

just 'cause maybe
there's some fear,

and I think, "Okay, one
little bump the wrong way,

and I'm paying the price."

But most of the time,

seeing those big, massive
waves when it's good,

most of the time I want to.

And I'm feeling energized to
go back to Nazaré for sure.

When Garrett started
surfing big waves,

I'm sure he was only one
of a handful of people

on the planet that wanted
to surf 100-foot wave.

Now I think he's inspired
a whole new generation,

and a whole new group of people

to want to go ride
these giant waves,

especially the 100-footer.

There's no doubt with Nazaré

coming onto the scene
that 100-foot waves

are definitely achievable.

And I think we all know
there's bigger waves

out there and that at
some point in time,

somebody'll ride one of them.

The 100-foot wave's probably
gonna be 120-foot wave

when somebody rides it.

And if it's not
Garrett, I hope it's me.

I don't like to get too attached

to numbers, goals, and things.

I want to perform really well,
but I don't want to be greedy.

Surfers always have traveled
in search for waves,

in hopes of finding
something incredible

that might be greater
than any of the waves

that we've ever ridden.

That's what we do,
that's what we've done,

and that's what we'll always do.

When we met you,
Garrett was talking

about the 100-foot wave.

Do you feel like after
this last year and a half,

like, do you think
that's still the goal,

or do you think it's changed?

You know what? I don't know.

I haven't gotten to
the bottom of it yet.

Let me get a little
wax on there.

No, I need help
because it's small.

I need help with getting in.

- Past the wave?
- Yeah.

But I can't imagine
if that swell

that we've always
known could come comes,

I don't think there's any
way that he would be able

to stay out of the water.

If it's perfect
condition, he's gonna go.

- This is the 100-foot wave.
- Life is the 100-foot wave.

This right here is
the 100-foot wave.

He was saying the 100-foot
wave is right now.

- Yeah.

Yeah, I think it's
definitely changing for him.

I don't know if it's
old age or what,

but he seems a lot more content.

- Go, go, go, go, go!
- Yes, yes, yes!

If you can live life

like you're riding the 100-foot
wave all day every day,

you're gonna have
really amazing days.