100 Foot Wave (2021–…): Season 1, Episode 4 - Dancing With God - full transcript

In 2017, prominent surfers flock to Nazare for its largest swell to date ? and while one pro sets a new world record, Andrew Cotton suffers a devastating wipeout. In 2019, after rallying through a back-to-back concussion and broke...

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My
childhood was very unstable.

They say they are the followers
of Jesus Christ, Lightning Amen.

We walked the earth
the same way Jesus walked.

They had no shoes.
They ate out of trash cans.

That was the part
that messes with me a lot.

Our idea for
the third year project

was to open the
door to everybody.

You're never on
a safety zone in Nazare.

We just wanted to do it.

You can't afford
to be on every swell, see?

You just need to be
on the right swells.



We created
the Red Chargers.

The surfers that look
for the red blobs on the map.

The whole goal is to put a face
to these people on the waves.

And then everything
just kind of went wrong.

Oh, my god!

Oh...!

Check out these
monster 100-foot waves

off of Portugal.

The biggest wave ever surfed,

as high as 100 feet.

To put that in perspective,

that is taller than an
eight-story building.

Surfers are always looking
for the next great thing.

It often breaks those brave
or crazy board riders.



Severe wipeouts and waves
of mind-boggling heights.

What happens here happens
nowhere else in the world.

- Biggest wave ever surfed.
- The biggest wave ever...

The 100-foot wave.

A gnarly wipeout
in Half Moon Bay.

McNamara falls off his surfboard

and hits the water three times.

Yeah, I saw Garrett's wipeout.

Skip, skip, crunch.

I went over the handlebars
and hit the water super hard

and then I just started
skipping like a stone.

And then the lip landed on me,

and then I was
underwater forever

and it was, like,
a normal pounding.

But underwater, I felt this
crazy excruciating pain,

and I couldn't move my arm.

Some are now
calling this wipeout

one of the worst ever recorded.

- All right.
- All right.

He got to the hospital,
and they were like,

"You shattered your shoulder."

And the humerus head was
shattered like an eggshell.

- I found out he got hurt.
- I was kind of scared.

Yeah, I mean, I did
whatever I could.

I started making calls.

I started calling people
and seeing who could help.

Garrett's brother
Liam was a godsend.

He found a surgeon
who would work on him.

The next morning, he
came out of surgery.

He said, "Put my shoes
on. We're out of here."

We flew back home.

A week after the first surgery,
we go to see Dr. Weldon.

And they both
simultaneously said,

"The surgery went perfect,

and we're gonna... we're expected
to have a full recovery."

I glance at the X-ray,

and I saw some
disturbing images.

When the head is down

underneath the acromion,

it's a sign that

your axillary nerve

is not firing.

And he says that Garrett
needs another surgery

because the first one failed.

Garrett comes out of the
surgery, and I'm there,

and he wakes up, but
he can't feel anything

'cause they have
a nerve blocker,

so they tell us
the nerve blocker

should last 24 hours.

With one hour of him
being out of the surgery,

all of a sudden, it was
like that movie "Hostile,"

just like this bloody murder

like from the
depths of his soul,

like, just screaming in pain.

He was like, "I
don't feel anything.

"It's not working.

"I just want another
nerve blocker,

I just want another
nerve blocker."

He's asking me to
get him a plastic bag

so that he can kill himself,

and if I don't get
him the plastic bag,

he's gonna rip everything
out, and go to the top

of the building, and jump off.

This depression and pain

went on for months.

The doctor said that I
should never surf again.

You know, I just told
him... I was like,

"We just can't even let
that be a possibility,

"so don't even think about that,

not a reality, so don't
even give it any energy."

- Practice acceptance.

Defenselessness.

Conscious choices.

I started doing all
my physical therapy

and my stretches.

It took a long while for him
to get back in the water,

but we were back in
Portugal pretty soon after.

There was events
he had to be at.

We still report to sponsors
to feed our family.

Um, reports from a reporter...

We had various
other meetings too.

I was invited in here
to get to know you guys

and your company
and to kind of...

Looking for new opportunities

and new projects

to keep the sponsors happy.

He was just miserable
with this arm

and not being able to surf.

Not 100%.

Doctors felt I need
a third surgery,

but they don't know me too well.

I went back to Hawaii to Sunset.

I could ride waves, but
I wasn't comfortable.

I wasn't ready for big ones.

I knew I was gonna be able to,
but I was, back of my mind,

wondering if I was going to want

to go back out in big waves.

- There he is right here.
- My hero.

Weldon.

Whoa, holy moly,
look at that thing.

Your bone has definitely healed.

You have healing... evidence
of healing through here,

so very good, very good.

Congratulations on doing
so well with your shoulder,

and it's remarkable,

and it's even possible given
where... how far you've come

that you could get enough

so you can be
similar to this side.

So when you... when
I first saw you,

I mentioned that I had
taken care of somebody

who had fallen off a cliff,
and I treated his elbow,

no problem, but his
brain was messed up.

He was in tears all the time,

and I had missed it,
that he had PTSD.

Definitely, I had PTSD,

definitely working
through it right now.

I don't know until I get
a really heavy pounding,

and I'll see if I
enjoy it or not.

- Thank you.
- Yeah.

Thank you, really
appreciate everything.

- Congratulations.
- Thank you.

I look forward to seeing
you back at Maverick.

He stayed in a
little storage shed

that we turned into
a bedroom for him.

We surfed a lot together.

We had a really
good time together.

He decided to kick
out through the lip,

but the next wave
is right there.

That wave landed
right on Koxa's head.

He was really struggling.

He didn't know if he'd
ever surf big waves again.

Ready?

2017, there was a big swell.

You get those perfect
moments when the second wave

of the set is smooth.

Look at that. Look
at how clean that is.

It's perfectly
smooth, it's groomed,

and there's a lot of
room in between sets.

Let's do it. Cotty's frothing.

- Nazaré was huge.
- I didn't want to wait.

I just wanted to get out there,

and I was prepared
to go all day.

You know, I knew that
someone was gonna get, like,

one of the biggest waves of
the year, you know, for sure.

- I saw some sick fucking waves.
- Really?

Yeah, like, sick
A-frames, like...

You're not to paddle about?

I don't know.

A lot of people turned
up for that swell.

Big and pretty.

It's weird because
it's super pretty.

So it looks smaller, but
it's not small at all.

How big is it out
there, do you think?

- I don't know but huge.
- I think it's huge.

I'm gonna try.

Hopefully, this wind
doesn't get too strong.

This is my baby, 10 kilos.

I like this wind 'cause
it make the wave bigger.

You know, I came
down this morning.

It's just perfect offshore,

so the forecasts are
wrong again, you know?

You don't get days
like this often here.

You get the birds, and you
get the sound, come on.

Come on!

You know, it's
gonna be interesting

to see what shows up.

It's gonna be exciting
to watch everybody.

Probably, I think at a minimum,
I'll drive Cotty and Hugo

into a few waves,
and then I'll assess

the situation out there,

see if there's any waves
that I would like to ride.

I have a feeling I'm not
gonna even want to ride any.

On look, a bit funky
at first light,

and then about quarter to 7:00,

the sickest set I've
seen in a long time.

Way more groomed than I
thought it was gonna be.

Been visualizing the day before

the wave that I wanted.

I was super confident.

I was in a good
place, you know, like,

like it was an
all-or-nothing day, you know,

like I was prepared to put
it all on the line, you know?

What's the worst
crash you've seen?

- I put him on the wave.
- I put him in the perfect spot.

It was nice and
smooth and beautiful,

and he came down, and
he did a little fade,

and then he turned

so that he could
get into the barrel.

And when he turned,
he was too late,

and the lip was coming
straight for him.

I stayed out the
back. Hugo got him.

Hugo ran him up the beach.

One, two, three.

Pull him over.

His back is really sore,
and he can't move that well,

and he thinks it's his spine.

Hold on, hold on,
hold on, hold on.

Just get it off.

Okay, it's okay.

Easy, easy, easy.

- Hold on, hold on.
- Don't move your head.

- Same pain?
- Same pain, lower back.

Have we got the blanket for him?

Katie.

Hi.

Um, we got bad news,

but Cotty's alive,

but he got hurt.

Oh, is he okay? Where?

What, in the water?

Yeah, we just got out.

Really, really painful and
doesn't feel right at all.

Take it off, take
it off, take it off.

Brace.

- On three... one, two, three.
- Brace yourself. Brace.

Go onto the stretcher now.

- He'll be fine.
- He'll come through.

Cotty's strong. He
bounces back quick.

Bummer.

Garrett, in all his positivity,

he's like, "Oh,
he's gonna be okay."

He got taken away
in an ambulance.

Like, it was really bad,

and I think, like,
maybe it scared Garrett,

so he was not giving it
the energy it deserved

as far as how severe it was.

With injuries and,
like, tragic situations,

he almost can't handle it.

Yeah, he doesn't do well with,
like, people almost dying.

- Perfect.
- I didn't even have to surf.

With a wave measured at 80 feet

and setting a new
Guinness World Record,

the winner of the 2018
Biggest Wave Awards

is Rodrigo Koxa.

There was nobody
that I would like

to have broken the
record more than him.

Oh, you know, it would have
been cool if it was Cotty.

Look at that.

Mm.

Until that point,
I never questioned

not being able to walk.

Just fearing that I
physically couldn't do it

was pretty scary.

Ah, Cotty's...

And then within like two weeks,

I was walking around.

See this guy walking already?

You'll be surfing in a blink.

- Ahh!

It's been horrific
going through the rehab,

the uncertainty and the stress.

- How's that feel?
- It feels good.

- All right?
- Yeah.

- You feel difference.
- There's a difference.

Negatives, all that worry,
all that, am I good enough?

Then once that happens,

sometimes it's hard to
get it back, you know?

- So how's life?
- Good. Congratulations.

Congratulations.

Tourism of Portugal
gets this great idea.

We're gonna put Nazaré
in Times Square.

Here it is, Koxa's
world record wave,

80-foot wave right
behind us in Time Square.

- The guy's a visionary.
- He's a visionary.

All right, Rodrigo, let's
get one more right here.

Hey, right here, world
record holder, Koxa!

Hey, and Garrett
McNamara right here,

record holder, world record.

No, he's the record holder.

Now it's Koxa's
the world record.

- Yeah, Koxa!
- Ha-ha!

- Whoo!
- Yee!

I'm preparing my body

so that when I go
back to Nazaré,

I will be physically,
mentally ready.

I've surfed a 100-foot wave
a million times in my mind.

I've trained for hours,
focusing, manifesting.

This winter, it's
gonna be the big wave,

so I'll be ready.

Big, huge breath in.

Let it out. Both: Ohh.

Garrett was physically
trying to get back in shape.

All right, grab some
water if you got it.

My brother CJ had
moved to Hawaii.

Stay focused.

Feet on track, knees
on track. Butt down.

From 2011, it definitely seemed

like Nazaré was something
super special for me.

It was gonna be a
huge part of my life

'cause it changed me.

It really did.

In 2011, CJ excelled above

and beyond any expectations
I may have had.

He was excited to become
a professional surfer,

big wave surfer.

And he got injured.

- It wasn't a huge day.
- It was kind of big.

I'm kind of zipping around
inside back and forth

in the white wash
and looking around,

and this kind of weird
little Nazaré tidal wave

sucked up kind of
out of nowhere,

and I gassed it to get past it,

and I went up on the lip,

and it sent me off over
the side of the lip,

and the ski rolled over.

I got a good hit from
a jet ski in my rib.

And then returning to
beach volleyball season,

the way I played was just hard,

just jumping as I can,
hitting every ball

as hard as I can.

So I ended up
blowing out the disc

in my low back on the left side,

and that's when the
sciatic pain came.

I couldn't stand up for
more than ten seconds.

I would hit the floor and
go into fetal position.

It was brutal. I couldn't move.

I was absolutely
crippled, floored.

My brother being my brother,
he spent an entire year

trying to heal it on his own.

We didn't realize how bad it was

until his mother
went to visit him,

found him laying on the ground.

He was broken.

All of his muscles
were atrophied.

He was withering away.

Finally, he did the back surgery

after a year of this already.

When he came out of
surgery and he came to,

he just started crying.

CJ suffered a severe
mental, emotional,

and physical back injury,

and then healing
and then recovery.

It was a journey.

They say 10 to 15 minutes

of laughter will give you

the benefits that you need.

So we're gonna start off

with just really simple
little breathing exercise.

I'm so different now
because of the injury

that it's so hard to say
what would have happened

had the path continued

and not been... had I
not taken this detour.

All the way in the belly,
in the belly, in the ribs.

All: Aloha!

I like to think, you know,
would've been amazing.

I'd be this famous big
wave surfer and, you know,

sponsors just throwing
money and stuff at me.

But it's all this stuff
that now I'm like,

what is that even worth?

What does it mean, you know?

Probably still have this
guilt and self-worth issues,

and I'd have all this
external attention

from big waves and all
this, and I'd still be like,

oh, whatever, I'm
shit, you know?

So I definitely wouldn't
trade it in for anything.

You know, it's the biggest
blessing in my life.

But now I have really
kind of taken a step back,

then I'm planning on going
back to Nazaré with Garrett.

The traditional big wave season

of Nazaré is October
through end of February.

Garrett was in recovery
mode from his shoulder,

and so it was like, okay,
let's do this comeback.

Let's get you guys
both out there.

Curl with the curl.

We both experienced injuries

but haven't really
broken through on them

in order to be able to go
out and surf these waves.

When it's time to go to Nazaré

and go ride this giant wave,

we'll be ready.

We were in Bali for a month.

The plan was yoga, training,

and to really get
ready, and feel mentally

and physically prepared
to go back out to Nazaré.

It's not just your regular yoga

that you think of with
postures, and that's it.

It's about how we hold
trauma in our bodies,

and that's what creates pain.

It's also about
healing injuries.

We were doing like six months

of quite intense
physio and rehab,

but all of it's been gym based.

The idea was to come
up here and just a bit

of yoga, a bit of moving.

The first movement you
need to learn is to

massage the Earth.

Come down.

And you've got to put a
little bit of dancer in it.

At first, it's like,
we're meant to get up

and dance and stuff.

I was like, oh, no.

And then I kind of got into it.

It was kind of just quite
good to sort of break the ice

and let your inhibitions go

and then, like, just
fully throw yourself

into the experience, you know?

People come to us for a
lot of different reasons,

including reasons
that they didn't know.

They come for healing,

sometimes it's the back injury,

and sometimes it's
a deeper yearning

and a deeper hidden impulse.

Oh, hear all that?

All the ligaments and tendons
popping over the middle.

Oh.

Ahh.

My body will be as
ready as it can be.

The challenge is getting
confidence underwater.

I want to surf in it,

but I don't know if
I want to surf in it.

I don't even know how I'm gonna
feel when I go back there.

I was trying to paddle in
some little waves yesterday,

but it was really terrible.

Sometimes those little
days are harder, though.

Yeah, and I don't know if
I'm gonna even be interested

in riding some big waves.

- You will.
- Yeah.

As soon as you get
two under your belt.

As soon as I get my lungs.

- You'll get a few waves.
- It'll be clean.

- It'll be all back to normal.
- It'll be nice.

- Freaking out.
- Yeah.

Directly into the heart.

Then turn on the inner legs.

He's starting to
turn on the muscles

that were just flaccid.

He's not such a stress
ball around his injury.

It's like, it's
changing beautifully.

Physically, they will
be able to do it,

but confidence is a big thing,

the mental preparation.

We have been working on
how to disobey the dictates

of fear because when
you're doing anything,

and your fear takes
over, you're screwed.

You can't be in
the throes of fear

and responding at that
profound athletic level

that he needs to be.

If you know you
can trust yourself,

then you can trust yourself
to do great things.

I do not worry for them at all.

I think that they are ready.

Get in your body.

I suggested the
yoga trip to Bali.

But to get Garrett to go to Bali

for a month with his kids...

Yeah, there had to
have been some carrot

at the end of the trip.

The carrot was G-Land.

It had been about
at least 15 years

since I've been to G-Land,

and we were just
there to have fun.

The goal was to get
barrels in Indonesia,

and we got to go to G-Land,
which has been this wave that,

since I was a little kid,
I was like, oh, G-Land.

I first heard about it when I
saw "The Endless Summer II."

It's just this remote
location that has this wave

that's just, you know, perfect,

and you can get the best
wave of your life, you know,

if it's right.

As I got ready to paddle out,

I looked at my helmet in my bag,

and I decided not to wear it.

I should've put it on.

He hits the reef,

and he gets a gash in his head

and amnesia.

He doesn't know
where his camp is,

nor where his wife is.

I know... I remember the wave,

and I remember
being in the barrel.

I was coming out, and then
I... something went wrong,

and then all of a sudden, I hit,

and I was almost knocking
out... Almost knocked out.

I was like, fading, fading.

I feel definitely out of it.

I'm having a hard time
remembering still.

I shouldn't still be not
remembering things, right?

- Just...
- No, no, no, it's normal.

- It takes a while?
- Yeah, like 24 hours.

Okay.

You will ask the same,
same, same again,

but it will get better.

If I hit any harder, I
would've knocked out.

I probably wouldn't be
here because... I mean,

I have this, so I was floating,

but good luck
somebody finding...

My children, my wife, my
life flashed before my eyes,

and I thought to myself,
is this even worth it?

These little waves, and
I could've just died.

I was thinking about
my family and stuff,

so I said, oh...

All right, Garrett, this
is gonna sting for a sec.

- Okay, just one second.
- Oh-ho-ho-ho-ho.

- You all right?
- Oh, yeah.

It's gonna burn
just a little bit.

Ooh, hee-hee-hee-hee, I like it.

Looking good.

How about glue,
you got any glue?

No, dude, glue won't
cut it for this one.

Yeah, I got worried.

I finally caught another
wave and asked someone,

like, "What happened?"

They said, "Oh, he
had blood on his head,

didn't know where he was going."

I didn't.

I didn't know where
I was staying.

Up until about a
couple minutes ago,

I couldn't remember
where Nicole went.

- Wow.
- Yeah.

Your brain's really
vulnerable at the moment,

and if you hit it again,

you can get permanent
brain damage,

and you don't want that.

- You good?
- I am good.

Tomorrow's gonna be
really good, huh?

Yeah.

When Garrett is talking
about going out surfing again

when he's still got a
bandage around his head,

and he's had a
concussion, I'm like,

"Well, the doctor said
you shouldn't surf

for at least two weeks."

He just wanted to go out.

There was no convincing
him otherwise.

He's like, "Yeah, but it's fine.

I'll put the helmet
on. It'll be fine."

And I'm like, "Okay."

Oh!

The universe said,
"You didn't listen

"to my first sign
of your amnesia,

so now I'm gonna have to
do something different."

Four days later, we
landed in Portugal,

and we went straight
to the hospital.

- How did this happen?
- Surfing.

The board went...

Okay, let's have a look
at the day of the exams.

Here we see the base of
the third metatarsal.

- So it's dislocated.
- Dislocated.

Yes, there's no bone
here as it's dislocated.

We have to put it
back in its place.

What I plan to do is to
put a plate over the second

and the third
tarsometatarsal joints.

If they're not stable enough,
the foot in time will start

to collapse, will
start to deform.

You will not be able to walk.

This is the kind of lesion
that we have to do surgery.

Okay.

If we did nothing, he
will not be able to walk

as he used to, and I
doubt he would be able

to go on a board and surf
again as he's used to.

This is the kind of
injury you have to fix.

How long does it take,
the whole process

if everything went
really smooth?

For you to be on a board,

not before four months.

The doctor so gently
explained to us

that it was pretty much
fractured in, like,

eight places, needed a plate
and all these screws, and...

Kay.

It was, like, playing
back to me, like,

the shoulder and the
months of depression,

and I was like, I can't...
I cannot do it again.

- Thank you for coming in.
- You're welcome.

When I got the wipeout,

my family flashed
between my eyes

and them losing me.

There's always the potential
of getting injured lurking

in the back of my mind
since the shoulder surgery

that makes me think
twice about everything.

Feel good, in good hands.

To be honest, when I got
hurt, I was almost relieved.

I feel like I need
a little more time.

When my body feels 100%,

the big wave will come.

And if I feel like
riding it, I will.

Today, my flight leaves
at 1:00 from Bristol.

I'm flying to Nazaré.

I've got sort of physical
training to begin with

and hopefully some waves,

and then sort of big
wave season kicks off.

What's a quart graph? Okay.

- A what?
- A quart graph.

- No idea.
- I can't do any of that.

- It's mental, isn't it?
- Yeah.

It's like, why would you even
need to know that, though?

Ace, he likes it
when I'm injured

'cause, you know, I'm home more,

and yeah, you miss
him, you know.

You do sort of think,
you know, like,

"What's it all about?

Is it really worth putting
everything on the line?"

- All right?
- Yeah.

But you don't fear
death, you know?

Like, I don't fear dying.

But I get more fearful of, like,

not being able to
surf again, you know?

Like, I fear that.

Technically shouldn't
even have been able

to surf that season, but
Garrett had his mind set

on getting back as
soon as possible

I think because he knew I
was so mad he broke his foot

that he was like, "I better,
like, get it better fast."

How are you?

Good.

That's the least excited
I've ever heard you say it.

Well, I'm good, but
I'm just... you know,

I got six weeks of off the
foot and six weeks of rehab,

and that's the
best case scenario.

I think Garrett
definitely feels pressure

to get out there.

I'm sure some people
really look forward

to seeing him surf, and
the Portuguese people

definitely love seeing him
getting out there and surf.

- Ah.
- Yeah.

When we first came here,
nobody knew who Garrett was

because this was
not a surfing town.

It wasn't a surfing country.

But now he's like
the George Clooney

of Portugal.

It's amazing how
much just seeing him

lights the Portuguese people up.

He showed that we are
a surfing country.

We can attract the best
athletes in the world

to do things that
for common mortals

are completely impossible.

Looking good.

The old ladies love him.

- How you doing?
- Fine.

- Been a while, huh?
- Yes.

We have a bunch of
friends coming over,

so I would love
to get some fish,

whatever you guys recommend.

- Okay.

The king of Nazaré!

Let's have a look at your X-ray.

So everything seems to be okay.

He's moving already
his foot a lot,

no need to move more.

We have to go slowly but surely.

Seems to be healed.

Well, I'm glad I got the surgery

'cause it feels great.

Last one.

- You did it.
- Oh, my goodness!

Good job.

After the surgery,
there was no pain.

It was a miracle.

I told Nicole, "I am
not gonna do anything.

I'm just gonna stay here,
focus on healing my foot."

And then I said to myself,
"Man, I got all this time.

I might as well utilize it."

And I've never been to Africa.

So Garrett and CJ went to Angola

for a beach cleanup.

And then they went
to South Africa

to work with Waves for Change
who provide surf therapy

and mentorship to
underprivileged youth there.

So is everybody ready
to get in the water?

All: Yes!

Let's go surfing!

And then we went to New York
because Garrett had a meeting

to build a survival suit.

We're in New York,
and my buddy Kyle

is helping me put
together a suit

that I've been
dreaming about making

for the last 15 years.

There's no real solid suit
for waves over 80 feet.

See if there's things
we need to add in.

The survival suits
in 2011 that we used,

most of them were, like,
Garrett's kind of creation,

and it's just taking, like,
flotation from life vests

and just stuffing
into the wetsuit

in the spots that you need it.

Now the evolution is having
a bladder that inflates

when we pull a cord.

Crazy, isn't it?

So Garrett's trying
to design a suit

that's as comfortable
as possible,

so you can be fully
free and mobile

but also really solid and safe.

Once in a while in
Nazaré, you come up,

and then there's this monster,

and you gotta try
and swim through it.

You deflate real quick while
you're waiting and then, ahh!

Get through, and then you can
have another one breaking,

and...

I think building this
ultimate survival suit

is gonna give Garrett
the confidence he needs

to do this for as long as
he wants into his old age,

and it's just gonna, like,
keep him together like armor.

- Whoa, holy shit.

When I got on the
plane to Nazaré,

my foot was feeling great.

By the time we got off,
it was swollen and sore,

and I thought maybe I
reinjured it somehow

from sitting with my
foot down for too long.

Traveling's, like, the
last thing you want to do

with a broken foot.

Do you see it?

He was feeling frustration
from what I could see of,

you know, having to
do all these things

and wanting to really
take care of his foot.

And then there was
waves of being grumpy.

You know, you're
pinned on the couch.

You can't go anywhere. You
start snapping at people.

I've never been so
unprepared to ride a big wave

ever in my life.

I got to Africa and ran around.

Then I went to New
York and ran around.

And it's only my
own self-sabotage

that I did by choice.

And I could've said, "Sorry,
no, I'm staying home.

I need to focus on my foot."

And I thought it was a good idea

because I couldn't surf,

so I might as well
do other things,

but to get back in the
water, you gotta focus

on getting back in the water,
not doing other things.

Check out the storm, CJ.

It's as big as we've seen.

60 to 80 feet on
Wednesday, magic.

- Straight down the pipe.
- Huge, huh?

- Huge.
- Look at the center of it.

The wave that I've been
dreaming about for years is

actually on the maps and
potentially coming in,

and I'm 100% not
ready physically.

I could ride it,
and if I make it,

I'll be fine, but if I don't,

there's a potential
of not coming home.

Garrett don't have to stay
20 hours on the water now.

He have kids. He have family.

He have to make all
the stuff there,

and he have to calm
down a little bit.

No.

And he's the best of the world.

I think Garrett have to
stay around, and have fun,

and take control of the life,
and growing up with the kids,

and that's it.

I think it's the most
difficult decision

to look at the mirror and
say, it's time to stop.

I think a surf guy
never feel that.

I do not know when big
wave surfers finally say

they've had enough.

Haven't seen it yet.

There's a point in surfing
when it might end up

becoming selfish when you're
not putting your family first.

And I think Garrett's
been fighting the demons,

and I think there's gonna
be a time when Garrett

has to hang it up, call it
a day, call it a career,

and be there for his family,
and kids, and things,

and not risk his life
for the 100-foot wave

'cause it may never happen.

I think it's personal when
you decide when the end is.

When you lose the
emotional capacity

to be able to go do it,

then I think the
physical leaves.

And I think some
people, that never ends.

Maybe some people,
they just don't ever

not want that feeling.

I don't think you call
it a day on surfing.

I think maybe you'd
call it a day on, like,

chasing it and risking it all.

But you don't call it a
day on surfing, do you?

Portuguese authorities have now

issued a red weather warning.

They say coastal areas are
likely to get a battering

from the incoming weather front.

Strengthening storm is expected

to bring downpours
and strong winds.

Of course, apart
from wind and rain,

this storm could also generate
significant surf conditions.

Luigi texts back,

"Guy who really want
to see his X-rays."

He said, "Good." Yes!

Time to rock and roll.

Now it's time to get
serious, time to train hard.

Time to get CJ in the water.

Time to get in the
water real soon.

I'll be driving the
jet ski, maybe surfing.

I want to thank you
for coming to the inaugural,

Nazare, pro-surfing challenge.

This is gonna be the
greatest show in surfing.

Every
important big-wave surfer,

everyone's there.

Justine is one
of the standout surfers.

Everyone wants that wave
that's gonna make your career.

But they've got
some serious competition.

Garrett's the ultimate
example of the old guard.

The new guard is
represented by Kai Lenny.

Just like you're going to
the Super Bowl of surfing.

I can't wait to see
these guys out there

giving it their best, and
it's gonna be a great show.

Go, go, go, go.