Reel Rock 14 (2019) - full transcript

The Reel Rock Film Tour, one of climbing's greatest celebrations, returns with a new collection of world premiere films. In The High Road, the powerful and bold Nina Williams tests herself ...

- [Narrator] Welcome to the 14th Annual

Reel Rock Film Tour.

(gentle guitar music)

Presented by The North Face.

Since 1966 we have viewed
walls not as obstacles

but as opportunities.

From the big walls of Yosemite

to the high peaks of the Himalayas.

We were searching for a
personal kind of freedom.

In this pursuit we found a community

strengthened by different stories,



experiences, and perspectives.

This community has shown us
that the only way forward,

is together.

Walls are meant for climbing.

- [Climber] Okay, ready?

Go.

- History begins.

You have no idea what to expect

- [Nina] I know that I can do it,

it's like, game on.

(screams)

- No gear, no falls!

- [Narrator] Reel Rock 14 is also brought

to you by Black Diamond.



We design and manufacture the most

innovative mountain
equipment in the world.

Live, climb, repeat, Black Diamond.

Yeti, in the van, in
the dirt, on the trail,

wherever you climb, Yeti
is built for the wild.

(upbeat music)

Trublue Auto Belay, from
the start of your journey

to the goals you dream of reaching.

Most tested, most trusted, most true.

Reel Rock is also proud to partner with

The American Alpine Club.

Love to climb?

Join the club.

And Access Fund, protecting
Americas climbing.

(upbeat music)

And now, get ready for four new films.

The High Road, United States of Joe's.

(screams in pain)

an exclusive sneak preview

And our feature presentation,

- Falling.

The Nose speed record.

- [Male Rock Climber
Voiceover] This has gotta be

the coolest racetrack in the world.

- 16 minutes faster.

- [Narrator] It's time for Reel Rock 14.

(sounds of brushing teeth)

(zipper zipping)

(upbeat guitar music)

- We're out here in Roy, New Mexico.

A really big sandstone bouldering
area, very remote feeling.

It's definitely flown under the
radar for the past few years

which is pretty nice.

There's a good chance that
you'll be the only ones out here.

- Nina and I have a
really good relationship,

we go out climbing a lot,
She's super motivated.

- [Interviewer] Who climbs
harder on the boulders?

- Oh Nina climbs way
harder on the boulders.

- Come on James.

(James grunting)

- Holy shit.

Sometimes she can warm up on my project.

- This is so fun.

- [James] Nice, come on Nina.

- So cool, yay!

When I go out climbing, I'm
not necessarily looking for

the hardest grade, I'm
really driven by aesthetics.

- Nice, good, come on.

- I wanna look for the
most beautiful lines.

- That's good, I got you, come on.

- The ones that make me
react in this visceral way.

And it just so happens
to be the tall ones.

- Nina likes climbing taller problems

which can be a little
nerve wracking sometimes.

(James speaking faintly)

- Oh my God, that was kind of exciting.

- Yeah?

- I'll see a line and it'll
be this really cool big thing

and I'll think, do I actually
wanna climb this thing?

Is it worth it for me?

And if it is, next step is
to check it out on the rope.

Whoop.

Make sure I know what the holds are

and what my beta is like.

It's about dealing with
the fear on a rope,

really immersing myself in it.

So in the real moment of climbing it,

I can feel that fear still
rise up on an instinctual level

but just be able to manage it a lot better

and be like okay, I feel this
fear, I hear it, I sense it,

but I don't have to listen to it.

(electronic music)

(upbeat music)

(deep breathing)

- [James] Good job.

- Ye!

- [James] It's easy to
be inspired by Nina.

She's always looking to push it harder.

Looking for the next big thing.

- For the past couple years

I had this seemingly far away goal

to climb this beautiful boulder
called Too Big To Flail.

(dramatic music)

It's in the Buttermilks
which is world renowned

for very, very, big boulders.

(dramatic piano music)

It's probably around 50 feet or so.

You walk up to the base, you look at it,

and your eyes just keep going up.

(slow dramatic music)

You think, oh my gosh, it's just sheer.

(slow dramatic music)

I first heard about Too Big To Flail

watching Alex Honnold climb
it in one of the Reel Rocks

way back in the day.

- I wrapped down it and
tried all the moves.

Oh shit.

And just thinking about doing it,

I was like this is terrifying.

Shit.

- [Rock Climber Spotter] You okay?

- [Alex] Yup.

- Seeing Alex on that climb,
my heart was in my throat.

How can he do that?

That's just totally nuts.

Never did I think, oh maybe
I could do that one day.

- [Colette] When Nina
started coming on the scene,

2010, 2011, she was just
one of those young guns

coming up quick.

(upbeat music)

- [James] Solid.

- [Colette] Yeah.

Doing double digit grades
just kind of effortlessly.

- [James] Come on.

- [Nina] I really like
doing these hard problems.

- [James] Nice one.

- Yes, it feels so good.

But I realized, I wanna
expand a little bit,

push myself mentally.

My first highball was probably

this super overhanging
V10 in Massachusetts

called Speed of Life.

It's got a terrible landing,
you have to like jump off

to the ledge behind or you
fall down this big chute.

I tried for a couple years
and I fell so many times.

It really honed my sense of falling.

- [James] Nice, get in there.

(Nina screaming happily)

- That gave me confidence
to try these climbs

that were taller.

I tried Evilution Direct.

- [James] Come on Nina!

- [Nina] I'm at the lip and
I've got this heel hook.

- [James] Yeah, come on.

- [Nina] And I remember everything
happening in slow motion.

Just like, no.

I saw my knee coming up
straight towards my face.

(slow motion grunting)

But at the last second I
moved my knee out of the way

so I was totally fine.

I realized in know how to fall well.

I could orientate myself in
space and control my landing.

I just took a few minutes
and did it next go.

Done!

- [James] Nice Nina!

(upbeat music)

- [Colette] Go Nina!

(group cheering and clapping)

- [Nina] I started to seek
out these massive boulders.

(slow upbeat music)

Building my mental strength
in a step-by-step manner.

Anyone can do it, it just takes practice.

(Nina screaming)

- [Colette] In the last five years

Nina's been going through a
process, doing all the steps.

- Yes!

- To get to the level she's at.

But I also think it just takes
a certain kind of mentality.

Maybe Nina just has that gene

that makes her a little less fearful.

- Oh my God.

- [Colette] She has this
ability to access the risk,

keep a calm mind, and just go for it.

- [James] Oh yeah, come on.

Oh yeah, come on.

Yeah!

- [Colette] Woo!

Yeah!

Two years ago she really took
another step up with Ambrosia.

- [Nina] Sup dude?

- I was there with her filming it

and it was kind of terrifying.

- [Nina] On a boulder like
Ambrosia it's full commitment.

When you're that high
up, there's no falling.

- [Colette] You just
kinda hold your breath

and just trust that she
wouldn't put herself

in that position unless
she was 100% confident

that she could do it.

(slow dramatic music)

- [Nina] When I did
Ambrosia it was perfect.

I had no fear, I wasn't
thinking about anything.

I just let my body climb.

Yes!

- [James] So good!

- [Nina] Yes!

I got to the top and I felt ecstatic.

It felt like a religious experience.

Yay!

- [James] That's so awesome, yeah!

- [Colette] So sick dude!

- [Nina] James was there

and he definitely had the poker face.

- I'm glad you didn't fall.

- Me too.

He looked calm and collected
but I know underneath

he was shaking like a leaf.

- [Colette] Were you nervous?

- Yeah, I kinda wanted to puke.

(Colette laughs)

I mean no, no, not nervous at all.

- [Colette] James understands
the consequences of falling.

When he was younger he was
free soloing, took a huge fall,

and put himself in the hospital.

- I was climbing in
Joshua Tree National Park.

The way backing up,
this really cool crack,

and I was about 10 feet from the summit.

I felt myself barn door a little

and then I fell and I fell
70 feet and hit this ledge.

I spent 81 days in the hospital
and had eight surgeries.

It took me about a year to
go from prone on my back

to climbing again.

Seeing Nina do a lot of these highballs,

I understand what compels her

but I never want her to
have an accident like that.

(peaceful music)

When she first told me she wanted to do

Too Big To Flail I wasn't
exactly enthusiastic.

It's just more dangerous.

But you don't wanna
discourage your partner

from their goals.

It's important just to be supportive.

Gonna pre-make the coffee, yeah.

- That's a keeper right there (laughs).

- If she's gonna do something like this

you can't project your own fears to much.

(dramatic music)

- I'm not sure if I would
call Too Big To Flail

the next logical step.

I don't know if any of this
is even logical to begin with.

- Okay, you're on belay.

- [Nina] The process began.

Top rope in, check out the moves.

It's slabby, it's insecure,
and it's really reachy.

I had seen Honnold on tip-toes
reaching between his holds

so I knew that I had
to do it in my own way.

- Is the foothold good?

- No.

- [James] Fuck.

- [Nina] A couple of people have fallen

off of this middle section.

This guy Nick took a ground fall.

- Fuck!

- [Nina] Another climber had to jump off

and fractured his ankle

but no one's fallen off the top crux's.

God damn.

- [James] Nina figured out the crux moves

and then on the top
section she jumps her feet.

Jumping, 45 feet off the
ground without a rope.

That's not ideal but she was
very methodical about it.

(piano music)

- [Nina] I worked the climb so many times

just getting it down
to a point where I know

that I have the physical
capability to crimp on these holds

and to place my feet and
then to keep moving upwards

because when I don't have a
rope, I won't have a choice,

there's no backing off.

(peaceful music)

I just wanna reach this
state of action of my body

and tranquility in my mind.

(slow piano music)

- [James] Today's the day.

She's going for it.

(slow piano music)

I got the pads up but
this thing's 50 feet tall

there's not a whole lot
we can do to spot her.

I mean, she's up there by herself.

(slow dramatic music)

(Nina deep breathing)

(eerie dramatic music)

(Nina grunting)

(upbeat dramatic music)

- Being in tall places,
I love that feeling

of absolute certainty and
control and confidence

in a situation that
seems totally dangerous.

I'm so psyched!

But I can say with
certainty, I've got this.

(slow upbeat music)

(slow country music)

- I talk to people and they
say, where do you live?

And I say Emery County and they say,

we don't know where that is.

Well it's in southeast, central Utah.

- Middle of nowhere.

Things haven't changed for
a long time around here.

Until the climbers started
showing up in Joes Valley.

(slow banjo music)

(upbeat music)

- Our crew of climbers
came out of Salt Lake City

in the mid 90's.

That generation of climber, in that era,

bouldering was the new thing.

- There was no harnesses,
there was no rope,

this was a new style of
what climbing could be.

- Come on!

- We were completely
obsessed with our little world

of burning each other off

and trying to get as strong as possible.

- The culture of it was young, punk rock,

fuck everything we're just
gonna go do what we want.

Climbing back then, it
was more on the fringe.

- I think we were definitely outsiders.

We were dallying from what's
going on in the real world,

on the road all the time.

- We were fiending for a new rock.

So when somebody says hey
there's great boulders

two and a half hours away
from Salt Lake, let's go.

- Oh my God, there's a bird.

- We drove to Joes
Valley, just like holy crap.

(dramatic music)

There's literally tens
of thousands of boulders.

This has everything we've ever looked for

in a bouldering area, like this is sick.

- There were suddenly these like

striking black streak boulders.

There was slab bouldering,
steep bouldering,

super high bouldering.

- The Wild West mentallity
of let's just go

just around that corner
and see what's over there.

- The more you hike,
the more you're gonna find--

- Nice!

Nice.

- Classic climbing,
then you just come here,

and it was awesome.

(dramatic music)

- Hold on (grunts in pain).

- Steven, he was really young,

really friggin strong.

(Steven screaming in pain)

- I want my mommy.

Can't put that in the video.

- Steven Jeffrey,
he went down to Joes Valley

and basically found his personal canvas.

He put up some amazing problems.

- So it's been, let's see, 25 years right?

35 years?

(laughs) 25 years--

I've been coming to Joes
for over the last 20 years.

I was 16, 17 years old.

I would come down in my RV,
kind of like runaway style kid

going climbing on these rocks.

It was just complete freedom

but it felt like an alien place in a way.

Joes Valley sits basically
in the dead middle of Utah.

This rural area, it would
almost make me anxious

sometimes when I come out here

'cause I was this naive kid from the city

and here was a whole different world.

It was different culture down here.

There was small town next to Joes Valley.`

I was actually scared to
even go in the grocery store

to buy supplies 'cause it's like,

man these are mean muggin people.

- Yeah check this out.

I remember going to a bar down there,

the video camera dressed like a climber.

one of the bartenders
just shaking her hat at us

and pointing at the door.

- [Bar Patron] Get this
motherfucker right here

to shut the video camera off.

- It wasn't like they didn't like us,

it just they knew we weren't gonna fit in,

it's not a safe place for everybody.

When you go down there,
you're in their country.

- I remember camping the
bottom of the left fork

and some dudes in a
big giant truck pull up

and they're like hey you fucking hippies

and start shooting a bunch of bullets

over the top of our tents
and we're just like, ah.

- What the fuck are you doing?

- We're camping here man.

- The locals, they didn't know who we were

and what we were doing.

(upbeat music)

- I can remember seeing the strange guys

with the mattresses on their back.

And I'm thinking, what in the world?

(grunts)

- They're doing what?

They're climbing on our rocks (laughs)?

- I mean I just couldn't imagine

that being anything he'd really wanna do.

- Ow, fuck.

Fucking ow.

- Being an outsider
and looking at bouldering

just looks really weird.

(upbeat music)

- They all wanna climb up the hardest part

of this 12 foot rock.

- Ow!

- It was just--

- Ow!

- You okay?

- Yeah, I'm good.

- My first thoughts?

They're crazy.

(screams and barks)

- In my head I kept thinking,

do you not have rocks where you live?

- Here in Emery County,
this is a small community.

Everybody kind of knows each other.

We're cowboys and coal
miners and power plant folks.

- We're quite a conservative group.

- We are Mormons so we are
very, very family oriented.

- Yeah we're very, very churchy
here I guess you could say.

- We all try to protect our own.

So when we saw the rock
climbers coming to the area

it was like hey, we don't
know who these people are.

- I was a manager at Food
Ranch here in Orangeville.

- Food Ranch the hot
spot for the climbers.

So this is where I come

whenever I have a serious
case of the munchies.

- The owner was scared, he
didn't know why they were here.

They dressed a little
different, they had the dreads,

the man buns, you know we
knew that they were showering

in our bathrooms 'cause the bathroom floor

would be wet, little smelly.

- At Food Ranch I'd be hanging
out there with my friends

and these people would walk in
and they look like vagabonds.

Old dirty clothes like they'd
been out walking in the mud.

Just kind of gross, I
feel so bad (laughs).

- Especially back then, the climbers were,

I mean the dirtbag was
the real deal you know,

like your down jacket was soiled.

You look like a homeless person.

- I don't mean this in no bad way

but they reminded me of back in the 70's,

the hippies, just free-spirited people.

- Yeah!

- You can tell the climbers just by,

they look a little disheveled and tired.

In fact we've heard a lot of climbers

call themselves dirt baggers.

- Yeah, we're scared to say that

because we didn't ever
want to offend anybody

but they'll tell us, we're dirt baggers.

- And so they're here,
where are they coming from?

And coming into our little town.

- There were a lot of
people talking, in fact,

there was a lot of concern.

Are these guys going to kidnap our kids?

- My mom was always
like, Cambrie stay away

from those people
they're probably weirdos.

- Yeah I wasn't exactly the poster boy

for the Mormon community.

My style,
hey what's happening?

I was Mad Max versus Flea.

(screams)

My van always had some sort of skull.

The bone shifter, got my
little friend hanging here,

here's been out in the
sun a little bit to long.

Water fountain.

- Whenever Jason stopped at a gas station

he would put in six
dollars and 66 cents of gas

just to be weird.

- Poster boy for being a freak.

- We've heard that there's some
goofy mother fucker around.

- I wanted to make people
think, confuse them,

and I think it succeeded to come extent.

(birds chirping)

- For years there was just
a small group of people

climbing on the rocks in Joes Valley

but climbing areas go through changes.

The first turning point of Joes

was descent of the Black
Lung from Ben Moon.

- Ben Moon was
one of the most famous

climbers in the world.

- He came over from
England to Joes Valley.

He was trying an undone project.

It was absolutely gorgeous.

- Nice.

- Technical,
powerful, really hard.

At the time it could have been

the hardest boulder problem in the world .

(screams in pain)

- It became this epic battle

Ben had with the problem.

- Come on Ben you dozy fuck.

(screams in pain)

Oh fuck.

- I was thinking, I hope no
locals can here us out here.

Fuck.

Piss off snow you fucking wanker.

(dramatic drums)

- Nice.

- When Ben did Black Lung,

I mean this is like the perfect lining

in a developing area.

- Fucking God damn it
man, I got that perfect.

- It put Joes on the map.

- Published in all the magazines

throughout the world.

You'd pick up Grimper in France
and there's a picture of Ben

climbing this iconic boulder problem.

So now everyone wants
to come to Joes Valley.

- The climbing population
started growing rapidly.

- All of a sudden
there's a thousand people

going over a weekend.

Sprinter vans just
bombarding up the canyon.

- Tents all over the side of the road.

- It's an invasion
of the entire world

on this little place.

- I can understand
locals being like,

oh it's a nuisance.

- Locals worried about
to many people here,

it was the us against them type deal

and they're coming into our
towns and our communities.

- A lot of townspeople
really was kind of against

the climbers coming in and
only wanted to keep them out.

- Two climbers were sitting
on the lawn at the library

and got the cops call on them.

- Honestly we thought
we were being invaded

by a bunch of potheads.

(police siren)

We found a little bit of pot on,

pretty much everyone we did stop so.

- There was
definitely tension building.

- Get a job!

- I was worried
that climbing access

could be taken away or restricted from us

because in a lot of areas
across the United States

people turn against
climbing and even ban it

and this one is just to good to lose.

- There was this moment
of, we need to connect

before it explodes.

So one day, I was at the Food Ranch

and there was a sign saying city clean up.

It was like perfect, let's
go to the city clean up.

So we show up in the morning

and it's a bunch of ladies preparing food.

- We look over and there's these

different people over there.

They look a little bit like bums,

you think well maybe they're homeless

and then they got up
and walked over to us.

- We're here for the clean
up, when does it start?

And the four ladies like, oh
thank God we were just here

thinking you needed food.

- Oh my words, we were so
excited we said, are you serious?

You're here to help us?

We were just amazed that
outsiders would come in

and give something to our community.

- The classic part was, here
I am shoveling on Main Street,

it's a Saturday, all my
friends from Salt Lake

are coming to climb and they
see me and they're like,

what did you get arrested in town?

What are you doing shoveling the sidewalk?

And I'm like, city clean
up day, I'm helping out.

(truck engine passing by)

- After that I
really started thinking

about how climbers could
help Emery County grow

because the reality was this area

had fallen on pretty hard times.

- In Emery County we've had
hay days and we've had slumps.

Our major economic driver
has always been coal.

40 years ago there was 20
something mines in Emery County,

now we have three running mines
so it's not the job provider

that it used to be.

- Yeah the mines shutting down

definitely has been a hardship.

A lot of people had to move.

- The power plants won't last forever

so we need to figure out who we are

and what we wanna become
in the next 20 years.

- There's a lot of
concern that Emery County

will become a ghost town someday.

- This place was struggling,
they just didn't know

they were sitting on
another great resource.

- When the locals, like
when we walk around

we see these lines of
stone and we're just like,

oh my gosh, this is incredible.

I was asked to give a presentation

to the City Council about bouldering.

People asked me, those things
on your back, what is it?

One local thought you
climbed with it on your back

and so when you fell you
just jumped onto your back.

I put up a photo of a Sprinter
van and they all chuckled,

oh yeah we see those all the time.

The next photo is the inside
of the Sprinter remodeled

and how much all this cost.

Climbing shoes are a
$175, crash pads are $200.

I was like, believe it or not these people

living in the dirt, have
money and spend it right?

- So then people were saying
that everyone's a millionaire

who's a rock climber.

I was like, these people are millionaires?

I'm very confused as
to why they're out here

in Emery County instead of traveling

to like Paris and stuff.

- We left town and came
back the next weekend

and there's sign's saying
we love rock climbers.

Food Ranch was the first
to catch on to the idea.

Go in there and next thing you know

there's chalk and crash pads.

- This is the weirdest story
but there was an empty bottle

next to the dumpster at Food Ranch.

You opened the lid, smelled it, like phew.

We kept thinking, what is this?

We started talking to a climber

and he explained all about
the probiotics and kombucha.

They says if you carry it, we'll buy it.

Started carrying it in every
flavor that you could imagine.

- The big final connection
for rock climber to town

was this idea of a festival.

So it started out with me
and my girlfriend Adriana,

we were talking with some locals about it.

- The whole concept for the festival,

it's about bringing the
two communities together,

stepping outside your bubble.

- Locals coming together

with a bunch of crazy rock climbers.

We weren't sure if it was gonna work out.

- [Announcer] Hotdogs, get your hotdogs!

Ketchup, mustard,
relish, get your fixen's.

(crown talking)

- We're gonna try to
get to know each other better.

- These are the best
chili dogs I've ever ate.

- Or even maybe learn
some stuff in the process.

- All right everyone let's get ready,

let's get our crash pads and
everything and let's head out

to these boulders over here okay.

(upbeat music)

We had all kinds of
folks from town come out.

People who'd never even
seen or worn climbing shoes,

ascend their first boulder problem.

- My name is Brooklynn
Potter, I'm Miss Emery County.

This is so much fun, I'm having a ball,

I've tried new shoes on, that's great.

Oh my goodness.

(group cheering)

- You actually need to
move your hips this way.

- The festival was my
first time rock climbing.

I was terrified, I'm so scared of heights.

- Retreat and then just
gonna take the fall.

- It was daunting.

- Once you step
up you'll feel a lot better.

- Fudgy heck yeah.

After that I was hooked.

I got the bug bad (laughs).

(crowd cheering)

- Is this the line?

- No, it's, jump right in.

- Okay if you're gonna get a picture,

you better friggin hurry.

When I was their age, I would have got rid

of all my fancy trucks and stuff.

I coulda just come up here
with one of them pads.

(crowd cheering)

You guys have fun.

- We never wanted it
to be just a climbing festival.

We wanna show climbers
from all around the world

the local culture and flavor around here.

- Yeah!

- So they can kinda
understand our way of life

and why we love it so much here.

- We started doin a clinic
on how to make jerky.

And you just wanna, real light,

pepper makes everything better.

- The jerky was so good
last time that I'm back,

even though I am a vegetarian.

- I hope they keep coming back

and look forward to
meeting a whole bunch more.

(crowd laughing)

- For the grand finale of the festival,

we had something special in mind.

(National anthem playing)

- They said, we're gonna do a rodeo.

- [Commentator] Showing
off their riding skills

while the rock climbers compete
in a number of fun contests.

(commentator speaking faintly)

(crowd cheering)

- The rock climbers getting on steers,

oh this is such a bad idea.

The first boulderer I seen do
it walked out in flip flops.

- I'm wearing sandals this is unfair.

- I thought, it's not gonna end well.

- [Commentator] Let's get out
and let's make some noise--

(commentator speaking
covered by crowd cheering)

Oh!

No points.

- The locals, they
think these guys are nuts.

(commentator speaking faintly)

(crowd cheering)

But it's one of the best events
of the bouldering festival.

- [Commentator] Oh!

(crowd cheering)

He's hanging on, squeezing those brakes.

(crowd cheering)

- The minute he
opens his mouth he's lyin.

- We're really glad to
have you guys in the county

at least somebody wants to come here.

- You guys all come from
anywhere you wanna come,

we love bouldering.

I hang on with these two fingers.

- He fell off a boulder.

- There's not a boulder I can't climb.

- No, he fell off a boulder
and hurt his shoulder.

- Hit his shoulder.

- Would you shut up.

- Now climbing is part of town.

The climbers fit in,
they're welcomed in here.

That change over, the acceptance
of the climbing culture,

its cool man, like
there's a coffee shop now.

- We grew up LDS Mormons
and coffee and tea,

you don't drink 'em.

People would ask us,

do you know where we could
get a good cup of coffee?

And we would always tell
them, you have to go to Price,

which is 30 miles north.

We transformed the front room of our house

into a little coffee shop
for the climbers around here.

They just keep coming back.

- My favorite part is you become friends

with people from all over the world.

- I'm from Ecuador,
got amazing people here

that is really friendly.

- Hola, I'm from Buenos Aires, Argentina.

- Valencia, Espana.

- My name is Christer, I'm from Norway.

- Marseille, France.

We had a good coffee and--

- Little tiny Orangeville,

no name country town in
the middle of no where.

Tens of thousands of people come here,

we counted 71 countries.

(upbeat music)

- It's really nice to have
people from around the country

and around the world bring that
diversity into our community

with different ideas.

The rock climbers have made
Emery County a better place.

- You guys climbers?

- [Cameraman] Yeah.

- The people of our community,
they know that our future's

in bouldering, our future's in tourism.

- I think one of the great
things that's happened

is that the local
commissioners have gotten

huge wilderness designation,

like basically the
entire San Rafael Swell.

- The Emery County lands bill
protects a million plus acres

for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts.

- Right now our country is so divided

and the outdoor recreation
is that point at which

diverse people can agree on
things and work together on it.

- [Interviewer] What about
Steven Jeffrey, he's--

- Moved.

Steven Jeffrey just moved there.

- Adriana and I became
a part of this community

through our festival and now we live here.

- I love Orangeville and I
do not wanna leave, ever.

- Even as a mayor of
Joe's Valley Bouldering now,

I mean he's writing the
guidebook and he's a local.

I mean he loves that place you know.

♪ Oh lord I see what brings me here ♪

♪ It's a mother to all my wandering ♪

- When I first started
coming down here 25 years ago

I was a scared little kid

just looking for boulders to climb on.

If anyone told me this is the place

where I'd be settling down and livin,

I would definitely think you were crazy

but honestly I couldn't
find a better place on Earth

than Joe's Valley.

♪ And girls will come
in first in clothes ♪

♪ And the boys will wait a gazing ♪

♪ And birds will sing from tops of trees ♪

♪ And sunlight, falling angels ♪

When you're in the mountains on a big adventure

it's an intense feeling

to know that your safety and getting back down

is completely reliant on yourself

I mean, you just have to climb carefully

Take it one step at a time

The mountains are alive all around you

and there's stuff that's beyond your control

But one of the coolest feelings

that a human can experience

is to feel so small in a world that's so big

Climbing for me is definitely about a lot more than just climbing

It's more about the mental journey from beginning to end

And everything that’s brought me to that point

It's almost like my whole life’s leading me to a certain place

(piano music)

- [Alex] The Nose is
3000 feet of climbing,

straight up the center of El Capitan.

It's one of the most famous,
historic routes in the world.

The speed record on the nose

has always been a series competition.

The different climbing heroes

breaking the record back and forth.

I mean, climbing El Cap really
quickly is pretty hardcore.

- [Interviewer] Give me a brief history

of speed climbing on The Nose.

- A brief history of speed
climbing on The Nose.

(hammer clanging)

The Nose was first climbed
in 1958 by Warren Harding.

It was the first rock climb of that scale

that had ever been done
and it took 40 days.

Since then people have been trying

to climb it faster and faster.

Royal Robbins did it in a week.

- The second the center
of The Nose was a move

on the Yosemite chess board,

and who ever makes the
best moves is going to win.

- [Alex] Each generation writes
its own history on The Nose.

In the 80's, Peter Croft
started pushing it faster.

(dramatic music)

- If I can do that fast then I've got

the whole afternoon free
to do something else.

- [Alex] In the early 90's
Hans Florine entered the scene

and basically ushered in the
modern era of speed climbing.

(dramatic music)

- Speed climbing The Nose
is the ultimate expression

of how competent a climber you are.

To race up this 3000 foot
wall in under three hours.

You have to have the skills

and endurance like a marathon runner.

It is the most badass
competition there is.

Fastest time up the most
incredible rock face in the world.

I think this record will
last for a good long time.

- [Alex] All these
incredibly talented climbers

started to compete in that arena.

Legendary figures like the Huber brothers.

- And that should be
clipped to the bottom belt?

- Yup.

- [Alex] More women got
into the speed climbing game

like Quinn Brett, Libby
Sauter, Mayan Smith-Gobat.

- It's pretty risky, you
face some really big falls.

(climbers chanting)

- [Alex] Hans recruited Yuji Hirayama.

- We're down to not just
minutes, but to seconds.

(group cheering)

- The record went back and forth.

We wanna one up each other,
we wanna be number one.

The whole strategy starts
to become more extreme.

At the boot I run out the entire back,

just hold the rope with my
hands as Sean swings across.

Basically just less
protection, bigger risks.

- Oh dear, don't fall.

Okay.

- It's coming close to a certain limit.

(climber screaming)

- Just a barely increase there.

- [Alex] In 2012 Dean
Potter shaved a few seconds

off the time and Hans had to
hitch his wagon to a new horse.

- I'd been looking
around for somebody else

I can team up with, I thought,
Alex Honnald soloed half-dome

let's pull him into the mix.

- [Alex] I mean, Hans did
literally write the book

How To Speed Climb which I read

and learned how to speed climb from

so it was pretty exciting for me.

I think the biggest take
away was how systematically

he approached the entire experience.

I was wondering about that.

You had to memorize all
the moves, all the gear,

you had to know what your partner's doing

in the different places,
you had to figure out

all these different ways
to refine things down

as near to perfection as you can.

(dramatic music)

When you get to climb
that well, it's so fun.

Hans and I set a new record of two, 23, 46

and we were pretty
satisfied with ourselves.

Then after five years these two guys,

Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds came along.

- We're kind of the dirt bag monkeys.

- [Alex] And they managed to break it.

Which is pretty impressive.

- When we topped out, you know I made

a little Instagram post then
and I got a text from Alex

literally less than a minute
after I'd made the post,

like hey, congrats you know.

A quick little, like hey, good job guys,

all right, I'm calling Tommy.

(both laughing)

- In the past, you know the
players, like the Hubers,

frickin the Hans Florine,
Yuji Hirayama, these are pros,

these are like the best
climbers in the world.

And then Brad and Jim, the dark horses,

I did not see that one coming
that's for sure (laughs).

(Jim laughing)

I barely knew who they were,
they just came outta nowhere

and broke The Nose speed record.

- [Interviewer] How many
interviews have you done

on camera before today?

- Probably none, I've done no interviews

on camera before (laughs).

- See my vocabulary sucks so
I'm always like, I start talkin

and I'm like what the fuck am I saying?

What am I trying to say?

- [Tommy] They seem kind of goofy and fun.

- Look at this, crispy, the pet squirrel.

- They live kind of like derelicts.

- All right, yeah,
welcome to the place guys,

step through the gate, watch
your head on the skeleton.

We got our stick walls, to give
us a little bit of privacy.

Do you wanna come inside?

We've got basic supplies,
the climbing gear,

the cam shackles, the Beargrease.

This is the finger board, it's good

'cause it's got big holds.

These are the ones I grab onto.

We've got this nice
collage of all my friends

I don't think I actually
know any of those people

but it's a nice collage.

Dean Potter shows us the way.

We follow in Deans footsteps.

This is where we keep
the katana, right here.

This is, been in my family
for at least a generation

which I guess means, my
brother gave it to me

and yeah that's what we
use to combat all evil.

- [Interviewer] What kind
of music do you listen too?

- Mainly death metal, yup,
the heavier, the faster,

gets me stoked, makes me
feel like life is epic

'cause life is epic.

Got the heavy drums, the shreddin guitar,

(heavy metal music)

that's what you need, that's
what you need right there.

(heavy metal music)

Welcome to the circle of power,

this is where we come to
focus our chi, not really,

don't know any martial arts necessarily

but know we're trying to get all centered

and ready for The Nose.

(heavy metal music)

- Jim and I put in a lot
of work, just that season,

we climbed it 11 times.

Trying to perfect that strategy just right

to where we could shave
off just a few minutes.

Go by go we were running
it out a little more,

error back was getting
thinner and thinner.

For my half I made it
to the top of Boots Leg

which is 1500 feet up and
I only placed three cams

in that entire time.

- [Interviewer] How safe was your ascent?

- To say it's safe would be total lie,

I mean it's not that safe.

It's like it is definitely dangerous

but we would try to make
it as reckless as possible.

Let me redo that.

It's like, The Nose record
is absolutely dangerous,

there's no getting
around that but the goal

is to try to make it just--

God damn it I can't speak.

What am I trying to say?

The least amount of recklessness, yeah.

Holy shit.

On the record go, like a dumbass,

I just forgot to drink water,

I was like holy crap man I'm thirsty.

I got up to the Dolt Tower
and there's a party up there

and I was like, can I have some water?

- [Austin] Need coffee or anything?

- No, do you have any water up there?

- [Austin] Yeah lots.

- [Brad] I was breathing super heavy

and I'm trying to drink and I choked.

- Just like coughed
into their water bottle

and gave it back (laughs).

- I'm like, thank you.

(Jim laughing)

- The less you have, the better,

because if you have nothing
on you then you're light

and free and you can climb really fast,

just like being a runner you know,

they got those little tiny
shorts that they run with.

Yeah I would go up there and I
wouldn't wanna wear underwear

'cause it'd weigh me
down to much (laughs).

The closer we're getting to the record

maybe we're pushing that
boundary between dangerous

and reckless just a little bit more.

You're starting to wonder,
can we just take a little bit

more risk and get it finished so that

we don't have to come back
and take all that risk again?

(dramatic music)

- [Brad] Part of the strategy
is that I need to be right on

Jim's ass for that last pitch
'cause the time doesn't stop

until I touch the tree.

Yeah, I'm giving it everything I got.

I'm just sticking my
fingers through the hangers,

I'm not clipping them with carabiners.

- I heard that at the top Brad
was literally just holding on

with his fingers to the
bolts and just plowing across

and they had an entire 60
meter rope hanging between them

but with nothing clipped
and you're like what?

Like what are you guys doing?

- This one final bolt that I clipped

just so that we're clipped into something

but this time I'm like
we're gonna break the record

there's no time for anything.

So I skip it and it's a
little Dean Potter quote,

"No gear, no falls".

"No gear, no falls".

Brad's down there just like monoing

through the bolt hangers.

- I was like, what does he mean?

Like there's no gear?

What?

I remember pulling over to this one lip

and I was like, yeah he's not joking,

there's no gear between us.

(heavy metal music)

- Yeah man, come on!

We got this!

Come on Brad!

Come on!

Yeah man!

- Cool.

- Oh my God, we did it
(Brads speech muffled by Jim)

- When Brad and Jim took Alex's record,

Alex started talking about recruiting me.

- There aren't that many
potential partners out there

for speed climbing The Nose,

there's just not that many people

who can physically climb
3000 feet really fast.

To me the most obvious
choice is Tommy Caldwell.

He's a really good trad climber,

he's a really good granite climber,

I mean my shoes are named after him

so that's always a good sign.

- Alex is the best climber for
that style of rock climbing

and so when two monkeys
crawl outta the boulders

and take his record, he's gotta
team up with the other Titan

of Yosemite rock climbing
and show us how it's done

but we'll see.

- We'll see.

(Jim laughs)

- Yeah, we'll see.

- You know there's a video clip
of Brad and Jim climbing it.

- Brad Gobright--

- When two aspiring amateurs
dis you on the tally pull.

- It was 2, 19, 44, I
thought it was 2, 17, 44.

- Oh yeah now it seems pretty obtainable.

- Yeah.

- Oh well, 2,19.

Whoa, look how far he's
swinging for the King Swing.

(Tommy laughs)

Look how much jumping he's
doing, that can't be the way

he actually did it, that's crazy.

What a (speech muffled
from food in Jims mouth)

and his rope is just
flossing across the ledge.

- I like critiquing
somebodies else's climbing

while you sit and eat chips.

(Tommy laughs)

(chip crunching)

I mean not to throw them under the bus

but when you watch the time lapse

of the two of them climbing
The Nose in a couple minutes.

I mean, it looks sketchy.

- Oh man, he's really close.

- Yeah, he's so close and I'm sure

they don't have any gear clipped.

I mean Brad's like 15 feet behind him.

- Yeah.

- I mean Brad could pass him
right there if he wanted too.

(Tommy laughs)

Brad should have played through,

I mean they have the
whole 60 meter rope out

with nothing clipped,

it's just not the way we're gonna do it.

- No (laughs).

- That's crazy.

- Alex had told me a
couple times, he's like

dude you guys are sketch up
there, that seems really sketchy

and I was like, yeah it's sketchy

but that's why I've got
the record and you don't.

- The Nose speed record is one
of the big games in climbing.

I mean I've always been curious

but yeah I always thought speed
climbing was kinda dangerous

and I've never been the danger
guy but climbing with Alex,

it's just so fun.

Pretty much any time Alex
says let's go do something

I'm gonna say yes.

He's my bad influence friend, absolutely.

- How are you guys?

How's the fam been?

- Good, good, yeah the
fam's so good these days.

They don't like it when I leave,

that part sucks but everything else is--

- It's a good thing you're
only gone for a month huh?

- Oh my gosh, are you gone for a month?

- Well they're gonna come and hang.

- Oh okay.

- [Tommy] Wow, I get like shakey excited

every time I come here still.

Still happens, it's pretty rad.

- [Alex] It's pretty exciting.

- [Tommy] The last couple
years, my life is so different,

I've got two kids now, the
Dawn Wall movie's coming out,

I wrote a book and I've been flying

all over the place doing events.

I just haven't been able to get out

and have these adventures
but I crave it to my core.

The whole game of racing the
clock was totally new to me

but I wanted to at least
see what it was like.

- [Austin] Who's wearing a helmet?

- I'm wearing a helmet,
first time for everything.

- [Tommy] Wow you look weird in a helmet.

- Okay I started our timer so,

we need just a few tons of
slack, don't worry about it.

(dramatic music)

Okay, I've actually got a piece in.

Normally when you're climbing

your partner is holding the
rope and they're belaying you.

(Tommy whistles)

You stop, and you then you
belay them up, you know,

one and then the other and then the other.

- Okay I'm climbing Alex.

- If you wanna go faster,
you can simul-climb,

where you both climb simultaneously.

When you're simul-climbing

you definitely need a
partner that you trust.

Your partner should have a loop of slack

out in front of them so
that you have some freedom

of movement as you climb and
then they also have to manage

all the extra slack
hanging down below them.

As the leader, you're placing
gear wherever you want

but if you fall off, you
know that your partner

is gonna catch you but you don't know

if there's like a 10
foot loop of slack out

or a 20 foot loop of slack.

Basically it's hard to know
what'll happen if you fall off.

(dramatic music)

So Tommy?

- Yeah?

- You can go a little slower Tommy

'cause there's only really the two anchors

clipped between us.

- Oh yeah, okay, just don't fall, got it.

- When you speed climb
The Nose, anything goes.

Any combination of free
climbing, aid climbing,

cheating, you're stepping on bolts,

you're pulling on gear if you need too.

Total free for all.

There's are always
weird logistical snaffus

or like things happen and you
just have to deal with them.

(dramatic music)

- [Austin] How you doin?

- Pretty good, yeah,

been crash coursed back
into the world of granite.

- [Alex] I'm gonna start
going up the bolt ladder

and then the aid climbing
so I'll be a little slower

and you can kinda keep me a little tighter

through this part, okay?

- I got you tight.

- [Alex] Okay, I'm on the boot.

I'll just put you on belay

and you should just climb
this part casual style.

(dramatic music)

- Oh my God, dude Quinn fell so far.

- [Alex] Dude.

- Jesus.

- [Alex] I know and as
you climb this think about

how weirdly slippery
and kinda weird it is.

(dramatic music)

- Yeah it is kinda slick rock huh.

- The main thing with
speed climbing The Nose

is that you shouldn't fall off, ever,

but it's hard to fall off, it's 5.10

you never have to do any hard moves

because you're cheating
as much as you can,

you're pulling on draws,
you're stepping on bolts,

it feels pretty comfortable.

- I think sometimes Alex is just so,

he is so confident in
himself that he tends to just

think that other people
are as solid as he is

but it's not the case.

Our first run, I lead the last 500 feet.

I was climbing along and I got
to a place where I was like

oh it's a little bit harder
here, didn't realize it was wet.

Falling!

- [Alex] Whoa, are you okay?

- [Tommy] I just slipped
out of a wet crack.

I had a piece of gear right at my feet

and it felt like 50 or 60 feet.

Falling!

Wow I slipped out the wet crack.

- [Alex] Whoa are you okay?

- Yeah yeah, I'm fine.

- [Alex] Whoa jeez.

- [Tommy] What's that?

- [Alex] I said oh jeez.

- I just put in a piece luckily.

- [Alex] Oh yeah, sweet.

- Yeah sorry about that.

- [Alex] No no, that's--

Sorry I had you kinda loose.

- Okay Alex, can you pull it tight here?

- [Alex] Okay, I got you good.

- Thank you.

- [Alex] Nice Tommy.

- [Tommy] We climbed it
in four and a half hours.

- [Alex] Okay.

- [Tommy] It was kinda
mind blowing for me.

That was fun though man.

- Yeah that was really good.

- It's gonna be a good workout.

- [Alex] Yeah so are we thinking

we'll climb The Nose again tomorrow?

- I feel pretty good right
now, I feel like we could.

- I'm down if you're down.

Tommy, he was surprisingly
enthusiastic about it.

Speed climbing kinda suits
his schedule right now,

I mean honestly he's in
the middle of a book tour.

- I was surprised, I feel shockingly--

- Good?

- Right, yeah.

- [Alex] It's definitely a good way

to maximize the amount of climbing you do

in a short amount of time.

- Hey Tommy, say hi.

- Hey, how you guys doin?

- Are you climbing today?

- Yeah we climbed El Cap already today.

- Oh nice.

- Which route did you climb?

- The Nose.

- Oh nice.

Awesome.

- Yup, just a little fitness lap.

- I've got Alex's already.

- Oh yeah?

- Reel Rock L.A.

- [Tommy] Nice.

- [Male Fan] I totally understand man.

- Are you guys getting on
something this afternoon?

- No, I'm getting in my bed.

- Oh, okay, thanks.

- [Interviewer] Tommy took
a 50 foot whipper today.

- Did he really?

Are you serious?

Fuck.

He took a 50 foot whipper?

Did you film it?

You got it on film?

Oh yeah.

Money shot.

Well there you go, even
if you're a 5.15 climber

the 5.10 cracks can still get you

when you're speed climbing man.

Maybe you're flying in the night before

and you haven't climbed
in Yosemite in a while

so you decide to team up with
Alex and sprint up The Nose.

That's when you can take the whip,

when you're in a 5.10 wet lie back.

- Yeah but me and Brad, we
spend a lot of time in Yosemite,

we don't travel anywhere else.

- I have yet to go on any book tours.

- Yeah.

- I'll fall anywhere doing the fastest--

- You're not supposed to fall ever.

- Whoa, shit.

- Maybe they've got a new strategy.

- Wow.

- Bringing more cams.

- What--

- [Interviewer] They have a huge rack.

- They have a huge rack yeah?

- [Interviewer] Just to start.

- Yeah, just to start, it'll get thinner.

- Alex is like no dude, I swear it's safe,

we can totally make it safe

and then each time they go
up there he'll probably like,

just oops, we forgot the
other point five (laughs).

- Let's organize the rack so that,

you may as well just organize
it straight onto your harness

so you're ready to leave tomorrow.

- I've been really surprised
by Alex's willingness

to keep it a bit safer.

- I feel like we should just
start trimming down the rack

a little bit as we go.

- Although I'm already seeing that

when we're going through our rack,

he's like oh we can remove this piece,

we can remove this piece, and I'm like,

let's' not take that to far.

- Let's drop the cam hook, screw that,

maybe I'll leave these micronuts.

- So we will maybe need to put another nut

in the Great Roof tomorrow.

- If it's this nut then I'm not gonna feel

that much more secure anyway.

(Tommy laughs)

Do you wanna drop the green C three?

- Yeah, sure.

- Just take one thing off the harness.

- Sure.

- You're all wrapped up.

- Yeah that's not horrible.

That does feel heavy actually.

- That's why we'll trim it down.

- My wife isn't exactly stoked about this,

everybody thinks it's pretty dangerous.

With all the carnage in
the past year on that route

makes me hesitate a bit.

- There have been a lot
of semi-legendary falls

on The Nose where people fall
like 100 feet down the wall.

I was climbing with Ueli
Steck when he took a fall.

- Oh shit.

- [Alex] He's a little banged
up and bleeding a little bit

but he was basically fine.

The Huber brothers, I think
Thomas took some epic whipper

off The Nose and then just a week ago,

Hans Florine fell off and hit a ledge.

- I'm pretty sure I've
broken one or both my legs.

- [Alex] Shattered both his heels.

- [Nurse] Insert ice packs.

- Ice and elevation baby, and rest.

- [Alex] Hans has climbed The Nose

like 109 times or something.

- That's where I fell, right there.

- [Alex] And then to just
take a fall like that

and break both his legs is pretty grim.

- I think Hans' injury,
the way that we climb

I always thought that that
kinda injury was a possibility.

Breaking your legs you're
gonna recover from that.

- Road to recovery baby.

- [Tommy] I feel like
that risk is acceptable

but six months ago Quinn
Brett, a total badass,

fell off of the top of Boot
Flake and broke her back

doin exactly what we're doin.

- When Quinns accident happened,
my emergency pager goes off

and there's someone
who needs to be rescued

and it's one of our friends Quinn Brett

who had just taken the most
enormous fall you possibly could

off of the Boot Flake doin
the same tactic that Brad

uses to get up there
which is place no gear.

She had gotten all the way
to the end of the pitch,

somehow slipped and then
took the 100 foot fall

and hit the Texas Flake
and fell behind it.

I was told that she was dead

and that we were going
to do a body recovery.

We went up to get her down
and then it turned out

she was still alive and luckily they did

an amazing helicopter rescue,
got her off really quick

but she had shattered her spine

and probably would be paralyzed
for the rest of her life.

(dramatic music)

- I'd climbed the nose 12 or 13 times.

I did speed records on El Cap

and through other formations in the Valley

and in Zion and in Rocky.

For me, speed climbing, I
just really like moving.

Covering terrain really quickly,

you find yourself in what
they call the flow state.

Your moving, your moving,
your brain is firing,

your problem solving really quickly

and your body is moving
really efficiently.

Had I summited that day,

I would probably still be speed climbing.

I mean it was a pretty awesome feeling

until the moment I took a fall.

- Quinn lives in my home town
of Estes, see her all the time

and you see how her life has changed

and you're just like
wow that's pretty heavy.

So you know, I'm a father
now, I can't really do things

that are, you know I gotta
keep my seam pretty buttoned up

for the most part.

(birds chirping)

- [Alex] I remember my first
time going up these ledges.

- [Austin] Have fun guys.

- [Tommy] See ya.

- [Austin] Be safe.

- [Alex] My first time going
up these ledges it was like--

(dramatic music)

- [Alex] So we got Jim here
doing the rigging to help

get the cameraman in place.

How are we looking Jim?

- They're looking pretty good.

- [Alex] Yo Tommy, you in the Bolt Ladder?

- Yeah I like ran outta draws basically.

- It's a little strange to be up here

watching the guys who are
trying to break our record

but I'm psyched to see their tactics

and a little bit of heckling.

Tommy's kinda botching
it on the aid sequence.

- They have fucking, cruxing out, hold on.

- [Alex] What's that?

- Cruxing out, my fault.

- [Alex] I got you really tight.

- Can you take for a second?

- [Alex] Yeah, I gotcha.

- I gotta work this part out.

- [Alex] I placed a purple C three.

- Yeah I couldn't quite reach it.

- [Jim] Obviously Tommy
free climbs like a mad man

but to put it all out there
for something like this

is a little bit of a risk.

- [Alex] You shoulda saved
yourself one sling as an aider.

- Yeah, I should have an
aider, just remembered that.

- [Alex] Gumby in.

- The aid climbing fucks me up.

- [Alex] Yeah it always does.

- When I got up to the Boot Flake

I was thinking about Quinn.

I decided to put in a piece,
even if it slowed us down,

at least for now.

- [Alex] I'm not sure if
this is the best way but--

- Yeah I mean, we can tag it over.

Oh God.

- [Alex] I mean the thing is really

Tommy should just solo the Boot
but he just doesn't want to

which I totally understand and respect

but so in order for him
to get the cure back

means he has to lower it and
it's just a little junk showy.

- I'm good there, I don't
know, where do you go to,

you're at the King Swing right?

- No no, I'm above it now.

- Oh you are.

- So yeah I'll just lower you down to me.

Oh no wait, you just go back up

and it'll lower me right?

- Need to get you the gear though.

- Yeah you can just drop it down the line.

Oh, rack to the nuts.

(Tommy laughs)

Just the way I like it.

- I was wondering if
that was gonna happen.

- Hi guys.

- You.

- [Austin] How fast were you guys to here

on this go Tommy?

- 1, 38.

- [Austin] Nice.

Jim, how long did it take
you guys to get here?

- We're not fully race
pace yet and I think what--

- [Austin] 51 eh?

- 51 minutes (laughs).

- That seemed like, not
quite right you know?

- Yeah maybe not.

- We kinda need to start going
faster so we understand it.

You know what I mean,
like anybody could do

a four and a half hour run on The Nose

and be like that's cool.

- Anybody.

- Anybody.

- Yeah anybody can (laughs).

- [Austin] Anybody.

- Doing like a two, 50 lap
on The Nose is getting into

some real, like that's fast.

- Sweet, I'm honing in on
being an elite level climber.

- Yeah you're getting close.

- Yeah (laughs).

- I mean the Dawn Wall
thing was pretty cool

but it took 19 days.

- Yeah (laughs).

(dramatic music)

- We kinda need the smaller rack,

we need to drop a bunch of the cams.

Droppin number two.

- Yeah.

Drop the jacket, drop
the nuts, drop a grigri,

I feel like we could drop a micro.

- Okay.

- Micro off the rack.

Kinda wanna drop more cams.

Like could we drop a one?

- Uh.

- Yeah.

- That's not that many cams.

- [Alex] Five a.m and we're
about to go climb The Nose,

third time in three days.

- [Austin] So is this
strategy similar to yesterday?

- Yeah but less cams.

- Fewer cams.

- Fewer cams.

(speech drowned out by laughter)

- Make it a grammatically precise film.

Perfection starts with our spoken word

at the base of the root.

(dramatic music)

- The last couple days
I've been flowing better

and getting a little more fit.

(dramatic music)

I'd never realized how
freaking fun speed climbing is.

(dramatic music)

Climbing El Cap in a couple
of hours, that's unbelievable.

It's just gotta be the coolest
racetrack in the world.

- [Austin] Ya'll went 16 minutes faster.

- [Alex] Whoa buddy.

- [Austin] We do the
same split at the top,

we'll be at three hours.

- [Tommy] I'll do my best.

- [Alex] I mean the real
beauty of speed climbing,

it's like approaching perfection.

When you actually climb
smoothly up the whole wall,

there's no wasted movement,
no wasted gear, no wasted time

and you're in this perfectly
choreographed dance

with your partner.

Tell me when it's fixed!

It feels amazing.

- [Tommy] It's crazy climbing
with Alex honestly up there

it's a whole new level.

Like today he got kinda
psyched and started to go fast

and he was just running it out.

- [Alex] When you're going speed style

there are basically two options.

You can simul-climb or you can short-fix.

The leader gets to the anchor--

I'm tying it off.

And then pulls up all the extra rope,

ties the rope off to the anchor--

It's fixed!

The second starts to ascend the rope.

You just have 100 feet of
rope laying there in a pile

and you just start charging up the wall

with no protection really.

- [Tommy] Short fixing,
whenever you fall as the leader

you're looking at falling to
the end of that 100 foot rope

but Alex is willing to take the risk.

He's so different in that way,
like I've fallen 50 feet plus

probably 10 times on El Cap or something.

Alex never has.

He doesn't wanna fall at all
and he doesn't fall at all.

- [Austin] What was your time?

- Two, 57.

- I'm feeling pretty encouraged at two, 57

because Alex climbed
the route with his shoes

looking like that and it was really wet

and it was our third
day in a row (laughs).

- [Alex] It's just so ridiculous
to be at the top of El Cap

at nine in the morning.

- I know, love that.

- Some of these today felt like,

less grueling then yesterday.

- Yeah I totally agree.

- Like I felt sorta tired and slow

but yeah man it didn't feel--

I kinda think we can go sub-two dude.

We'll see.

(Tommy laughs)

- That would be awesome, oh my God.

Breaking this record, it
feels possible I think

but Alex really wants to
do it in under two hours.

It's gonna be hard.

- I've always sort of had the
life goal of climbing The Nose

sub two hours, it seems possible

but it seems kinda crazy, really hard.

Kinda like it's a two hour marathon.

It's a big psychological barrier.

Going sub two, I think
we'd be pretty proud

but we'll see.

(dramatic music)

- Ready?

Go.

- [Alex] Started exactly six,
20 we are off to the races.

- [Tommy] This time we pushed
it a little bit harder.

- [Alex] Nice Tommy.

About to say, you're looking pretty good.

- [Austin] Yeah.

- By their fourth attempt
Alex and Tommy were moving

way faster, I was across the valley,

filming with a telephoto lense.

- [Stranger] You got a friend up there?

- [Austin] Yeah they're
trying to break the record.

- [Stranger] Oh sweet, oh damn, who is it?

- [Austin] It's Alex
Honnald and Tommy Caldwell.

- [Stranger] Oh okay, never heard of 'em.

- [Austin] They're trying to make a name

for themselves really.

Tommy was cruisin, I mean
I was having to like jostle

and move around the camera a bunch

just to try keep up with him.

Oh nice here he goes, about
to charge the Stove Legs.

- [Tommy] I was getting
a little too psyched up,

like I was letting it get
out of my comfort zone

in terms of how fast I was going.

- [Alex] Gonna have to untie
and pull the rope through

to undo one prusiks we do.

So I had just taken the grigri off.

- [Austin] Let's see, there he is.

- [Tommy] And I just like slipped out.

- [Austin] Holy shit.

Dude Tommy just took a
fucking monstrous whipper,

like 100 feet.

I'm like, I can't tell,

he's climbing back up to Alex right now.

It was like right when I
was shifting the frame.

- [Tommy] I just fell
until I yanked against Alex

who's tied into the other end of the rope.

And then I just started
climbing right away.

- [Alex] Dude you whipped 100
feet, you were literally like

oh I hate that I always do
that and then you swung over

and punched back through
and I was like oh my God,

that was outrageous.

- [Austin] It's crazy, even
with taking a huge fall,

they're still gonna maybe go
faster then they have before.

- [Alex] After Tommy took his 100 footer,

up higher on the route
I slipped out of a crack

while short fixed and probably would have

taken a 50 or 60 footer but I
caught the rope with my hands.

I just don't really know, I
don't really know what happened

but I did rope burn my hand a little bit

and tore a chunk out of a finger.

(rope sliding against rock)

(Alex breathing heavily)

Yeah buddy!

Nice work.

Two, 31, that was a lot faster

but really like not that
cool, we kinda botched.

- [Austin] Does it hurt?

- Yeah I mean it burns, I mean
it's like a huge open hole.

On the other hand, I self arrest,

I basically caught the
rope and caught myself

rather than take a hundred footer

which is definitely a big plus.

- Yeah we fell in the same spot.

- Was that the exact same spot?

- Yeah.

- That's crazy.
- Exact same spot.

- That's crazy.

- Dude it was at least a hundred feet.

I was like, I'm still
falling, I'm still falling,

I was like I hope Alex didn't just untie

and I just like fall to my death.

I had time to think about all that.

- Doesn't feel quite as fun today.

- No it was minorly traumatizing.

- We're broke now, we're kinda horrified.

Man oh man, what a morning.

- Yup.

- It's a little horrifying
too 'cause the people

that are like watching today
being like oh this is cool,

and we're both like--

- I wonder if anybody was
watching when I fell massively.

- I know, I hope nobody saw that shit.

- Yeah.

(children speaking over each other)

- From the outside.

- Okay, I'm gonna get you, I'm
gonna get you, who's calling?

- [Youngest Child] Me.

- Who is?

Your calling?

Hello?

Hey how's it going?

- Daddy!

- Wanna say hi to daddy?

- Hi daddy, hi daddy.

- How fast did you climb today?

- [Tommy On Phone] We
climbed it in two hours

and 31 minutes.

- How'd it go today?

- [Oldest Child] I wanna be a base jumper!

- [Tommy On Phone] It was definitely

slightly less than ideal.

I took a really big
fall and Alex also fell

and grabbed the rope and tore
a huge hole in his finger.

- Awesome.

Are you okay?

- [Tommy On Phone] Yeah, yeah, I was safe.

We've got it set up so
we're only running it out

where it's clean and stuff.

So taking a big fall
is, not that dangerous.

- When Tommy mentioned the speed record,

I wasn't really attracted to the idea.

(Tommys speech muffled on phone)

When Quinn had her accident
and then Hans fell off The Nose

it was just an eye opener,

like oh man you can get really messed up

but Tommy loves climbing with Alex,

they're kind of unstoppable together

and they truly believe it's safe.

I don't know speed climbing very well

but my understanding is like
you guys are gonna climb fast

and you have this dialed and
you know what you're doing

so you just don't fall but
then they both fell in one day.

Yeah.

- [Tommy On Phone] But we're
not gonna do that anymore.

- Yeah but how do you avoid it?

- After taking those falls,

we felt like we needed to
dial it back a little bit.

- This is where I whipped the other day

and Tommy whipped here.

- [Tommy] Even Alex
seemed a bit shaken up.

- Gives the wrong impression
of speed climbing.

Ah, two, 51.

- We didn't take any
hundred foot falls today.

- Yeah and no injuries.

- Tommy and Alex, they're goin fast

but there's such a difference
between going three hours fast

to breaking the record.

- I think it might be
possible to get there

without redlining--

- They kinda gotta get it
together pretty quick here

I mean it's mid May and
if it drags on into June,

it gets hot and it gets crowded.

- [Alex] Don't let it go.

- The Nose has just become
so incredible popular,

everyone wants to do The Nose.

So you just get people
from all over the world.

It's packed.

- Wouldn't be The Nose if we
weren't jocking for position.

- [Austin] Get out of the way.

- [Brad] The wall climbers come up

and it gets frustrating
passing five to 10 parties.

(speaking foreign language)

- Go Tommy go!

- Gracias.

- Kinda smells, reminds me of urine.

Welcome to The Nose huh.

- It really is kind of a challenge to try

to not get stuck behind people.

The strategy is, you don't ask to pass

but you're really friendly,
you're like what's up guys?

Oh you're from Germany, sick, cool, yeah,

is it your first time out here?

And you're talking to them the whole time

and meanwhile you're just
kinda slowly climbing through

their junction, before
they know you're above 'em

and you're like all right
guys, have fun, good luck

and you just keep climbing.

(speaking foreign language)

- Thanks man.

Where are you from?

- Netherlands.

- Have fun.

- You too.

- What was the time?

- Two, 25.
- Two, 25.

- [Austin] Two, 25?

- Yeah.

- [Austin] Damn.

- Two, 25 is pretty good.

Should we go down and eat a sandwich?

Let's go see your kids.

- I know, my kids!

- I haven't seen your family yet.

(young girl speaking gibberish)

- Hi (laughs).

- Hey pits.

- Hey baby.

- Hey how's it going?

- Good, you remember me?

- I do, how you feeling?

- Good, did you watch us at all?

- [Rebecca] Think I saw
you towards the top.

- [Brad] How's it going?

- [Tommy] Oh yeah, Brad.

- Did you guys do The Nose?

- Our time today was two, 25.

- What was your time?

- Five minutes away, yeah.

(dramatic music)

- [Tommy] So what are we doin?

Are we goin all?

- Let's go fast, yeah.

- Go fast, let's feel the burn.

(birds chirping)

- We gotta make sure they
start at the exact same foot

of the root that we start at.

Making sure all the clocks work.

- Seems like they might break the record

but we'll see, it's a little hot

and there's some parties on the wall

so it might be a little
more difficult today.

When me and Brad were going
for it we were nervous,

like oh boy this is gonna be stressful.

Today, yeah these guys are
the ones with all the stress.

- Oh we don't have any stress.

- We just get to chill and watch.

That's good.

- Did you guys start from
this pedestal or that one?

- Brad would monkey up this way.

- It kinda makes more
sense to start right here

and just bam, bam, bam.

- I mean you're the professional (laughs).

- Okay, ready?

- Go.

(dramatic music)

- [Alex] Remember the Hans saying,

start out slow, go, go, go,
start out fast, just won't last.

- And there they go, history begins.

(dramatic music)

(speech muffled by wind)

- [Jim] Taking the swing.

- [Brad] Oh yeah.

(Jim cheering)

(dramatic music)

♪ Clock started, nothing
left but tie me down ♪

(dramatic music)

- All right Tommy, tell me
when you get to that piece

and I'll swing over.

- Okay man.

♪ We can call the whole thing, down ♪

- [Alex] Nice work Tommy.

- [Tommy] Thank you.

- Tommy and Alex left all
their gear at the base

so we're bootying it (laughs).

They don't need it, they get free stuff

but me, I work and steal
for my living (laughs).

- Let's see what their time is.

- They did really fast on the sickle bit.

- They're at 30, almost 38 minutes.

- [Austin] That morning
there was an audience.

Becca was there with
Alex's girlfriend Sanni.

- Go daddy!

- I think he heard you.

- They got Hans sitting out there,

broken ankles and all.

(Hans cheering)

(Brad booing)

And Brad and Jim,

secretly hoping that they'd watch them

make a bunch of mistakes.

Is there a part of you guys,
like I hope they stubbied?

- No.

- Yeah.

- I don't think so.

(both laughing)

- Do you see daddy?

Do you see daddy in there?

- Fit in the boot.

- [Rebecca And Sonni]
He's on the boot (laughs)

- Do you know where the boot is kids?

You can see a perfect
little boot up there.

- [Tommy] The Boot Flake is
always an exciting moment.

- [Alex] Yeah this is my favorite pitch.

- [Tommy] Yeah.

- [Alex] Yeah.

- [Tommy] It's like my
least favorite pitch.

Just get grip, thinking about
quitting when I'm up there.

(slow dramatic music)

- [Jim] Tommy places a cam on the boot.

- [Brad] Oh yup, there he goes.

- What is he doing?

I bet that makes Becca happy.

- Yup.

- [Rebecca] Give it to me kiddo,

daddy's standing on the boot.

(spectators cheering)

- [Jim] He lowers down to grab it

before Alex does the swing.

That's definitely a
time waster right there.

- [Brad] Yeah.

- Okay here we go.

- [Tommy] We've been checking the time

after Alex does the King Swing,

it was an hour and one minute.

- [Alex] We were five
minutes faster than before.

I just knew it was game
on, it was time to go

as fast as I could.

- Oh man they got someone
starting up the Great Roof

in a minute, might get hosed.

- When I was getting up to the Great Roof,

these two Bask women who we
passed twice before in the week

had just finished aid climbing the pitch

and so there was already
rope hanging down it

and gear all over it.

(speaking foreign language)

It's mildly annoying when
you can't put your fingers

into the places you want but it means that

I can just pull on their quick
draws and just climb through.

- [Foreign Woman] Go Alex go!

(speaking foreign language)

- [Tommy] What's that?

- Watch me good here.

(speaking foreign language)

Got the lines fixed Tommy!

- [Tommy] Alex gets to the
anchor, short fixes there

and then I just jug as fast as I can.

(speaking foreign language)

- When I got to the Great
Roof, we're right on pace

for the record but then I
just start getting tangled

in the equipment from the Bask ladies.

- [Foreign Woman] Go Tommy go!

- I have to switch my whole system.

Putting jumars on, taking 'em off,

figuring out where to put 'em,

there's this other rope, I'm
worried it's gonna get stuck,

just clustering.

Oh fuck.

I lowered out and then
I went to pull the loop

but it was just caught.

The only quick solution I
could think of was to untie

and pull the rope as fast as
I could and then tie back in.

Alex had gotten stopped because
he didn't have any rope left

he's just kinda like waiting for me

right in the middle of
the cruxxed out pitch.

- [Tommy] Something got
twisted in that anchor

I have to untie.

- [Alex] Sorry about that.

No, it's not your fault.

- What's going on?

- You know where they're at Hans?

- Alex is right where I fell.

- So I pull my end then I just
start trying to tie back in.

(dramatic music)

- [Alex] Every time you
speed climb The Nose

you run into situations

that you haven't necessarily
dealt with before

there's always some kind of weird thing

and the real test is how
quickly you can deal with it

and manage and then just
keep moving forward.

It was definitely the right call for Tommy

just to look at, be like oh
here's what I need to do,

untie, pull, pull, pull,
retie, here we go, keep going.

It's like, good improvising by Tommy.

(dramatic music)

- Oh shit.

(dramatic music)

- [Alex] Nice work, way to deal.

- Okay, adios.

- Okay, adios.

- [Tommy] That probably
wasted two minutes.

- [Austin] Look at him go.

- [Tommy] But you know Alex
just started to boogey up

the steep cracks at the top
like nobody else ever had.

Climbing like a beast in no fall terrain

and we made up tons of time there.

- [Alex] On each of the last six pitches

I have positions where
I could probably take

a hundred to a 200 foot fall.

So I didn't look at any splits or anything

you don't really wanna
think about pace to much

you wanna just go as hard
as you can and just execute.

Just focus on what we're doing

and then just find out on top.

- [Brad] Shit dude he is just fucking--

- Wow it's amazing.

- Tommy's at the Wild Stance,

Alex is on the final Bolt Ladder.

- [Alex] The last pitch is
like the full glorious sprint

to the finish line.

It's completely exposed,
totally outrageous.

You're hand over handing
bolts, you're like (grunts),

just leave it all on the
table, punch it to the top.

It feels so heroic.

(spectators cheering)

- Can't tell me, I'm running
to the top, get some!

(spectators cheering)

- I wasn't checking my watch at all

I was just trying to go as
fast as I physically can.

- [Alex] I'm just running
uphill with a bunch of weight

hanging off me and then the
goal is just to pull the rope

as tight as you can and
then start pulling on Tommy.

Yo Tommy!

(Alex breathing heavily)

Come on Tommy!

- I see him, he's pulling,
hand over handing.

- [Rebecca] Let me see.

- [Sanni] Come on Tommy!

- The tree is in sight, I'm just,

I'm running up the final
slabs as fast as I can.

- [Alex] Come on Tommy!

- All of a sudden I just
get jerked to a halt.

I just started panicking,
I was like, oh no!

- [Alex] Come on Tommy!

- And again I had to
friggin untie the rope

and it probably took me like
two or three times as long

to untie as it should have.

- [Alex] Come on Tommy!

- Finally got it untied
and ran to the tree.

- [Alex] Yeah buddy!

- [Austin] When Tommy ran up
to the tree without the rope

I was like that's unorthodox.

- [Alex] Did you just untie at the end?

- Yeah my rope got caught.

- [Alex] Well, good call

- I didn't even really
realize what had happened.

Alex just kind of casually walks back.

Two, 10, 14.

- Two, 10, 14.

(spectators cheering)

- Hi daddy!

- Say good job daddy!

He's standing on top.

- Well man, nice dude.
- boom.

That felt good.

- Yeah, yeah.

- It still wasn't quite perfect though.

- Yeah, I was like-

- Got stuck several times
and that was kinda like uh.

- That was good though, we got the record.

- You got it back!

- Nice work.

That was sick.

- Yeah, we got it by, kind of a lot.

- Almost 10 minutes.

- Yeah.
- Yeah.

Yeah, legit.

Now we just gotta shave 10 more.

- Oh Jesus.

- That definitely hurt a lot more.

(gentle music)

Breaking somebodies record is fun,

it's nice to one up your
friends or whatever.

Brad's calling.

- [Tommy] Oh nice.

- Brad Gobright.

- Congratulations, you did it!

- Yo, we took it, we took it,

but not quite by enough for
it to be out of the question

for you guys though you know?

We might have to go again.

But the idea is that you're
seeking out that feeling

of perfection where they're like,

this climb went as well
as any climb can go

and so when we got to the top in two, 10,

we're like oh that felt really good

and we did it pretty quickly
but it wasn't quite perfect.

- Yeah I think both of
us were immediately like,

oh we can do better than that,
we're not done with this.

Does seem possible to go faster.

- Yeah I mean we could for
sure shave 10 minutes off that.

- I feel like we're just
getting close to our potential

at this point so that two
hour mark is very enticing.

We just decided that we should keep going,

try and do it in under two hours.

- You know I think any reasonable person

would break The Nose speed
record and hang up their rack

and they'd be done but Tommy and Alex

they wanted to break two hours.

It's kind of this mythical time

that people have wondered about like,

oh is it even possible?

- My thought is that if we break two hours

that'll be getting pretty
close to this is perfect,

like this is the best that we can do.

- It's gonna be real hard,
like this is gonna hurt

but we're gonna try again
tomorrow and who knows?

Maybe we'll just cut
off another 10 minutes.

- [Austin] Yeah fellas!

- Yeah!

Hey, what's happening?

How's it goin buddy?

- The baby's sleeping.

- Oh sorry.

- But you did good, nice job.

- Yo Hans, what happened?

(everyone laughing)

- Don't insult the history book here.

Seven hour, six hour, and five hour mark

all broken by Peter
Croft and Dave Schultz.

Dean Potter and Timmy O'Neill
broke the four hour mark,

Yuji and Hans broke the three hour mark,

Alex hasn't broken an hour
marks, oh that's gotta hurt.

(all laughing)

- That's fair, yeah.

- [Tommy] So yeah, go again tomorrow?

- [Alex] Yeah.

- Two experienced climbers
died when they plummeted off

El Capitan in Yosemite this morning.

- [Female Reporter] The two
climbers were attempting El Cap

when something went horribly wrong.

The climbers, identified
as 46 year old Jason Wells

of Boulder, Colorado and 42
year, a Tim Klein from Palmdale.

Rangers still figuring out just how

these climbers fell Saturday.

- [Alex] The next morning
we were getting ready

for another attempt on The Nose

and we found out there
was an accident on El Cap.

Two super experienced
climbers, Jason and Tim,

they were using speed climbing
tactics on another route

call the Salathe which is
just to the left of The Nose.

It's unclear exactly what happened

but somehow fell off the wall.

It was like, woof, pretty heavy.

An accident like this, is you never know

if maybe they did have
gear and maybe it pulled

or maybe a rock rolled, cut the rope,

you know what I mean,
there's so many variables.

I mean it definitely makes you pause

and think about your choices a little bit.

- Are you guys thinking
you're gonna climb tomorrow?

- I don't know.

But the reality is, if
you're speed climbing

on The Nose you've already thought about

how an accident could occur,

what it would be like to fall off.

You're already doing your
absolute best to minimize

the chance of that happening.

- Like there's always an
anchor, we're always at least--

- [Alex] I think that for
Tommy the bigger challenge

is his obligation to his family

and making sure the
Becca feels comfortable

with his decision making.

- It's just the kind of
thing where it's like

I want a guarantee but
there's no guarantee

so I just have to trust
you guys but that's scary.

- I was feeling a little bit wigged

about just raging tomorrow.

- Yeah making sure there's no gear--

- Maybe take a second
look at those fixings.

So we decided to go and
take it a little more chill.

Mostly to just test out the psyche.

To go sub two I feel like
you just gotta be like,

(grunts) so stoked and this
definitely took the wind

out of the sails for me.

We went back up, taking the
time to reanalyze everything.

It felt really solid to me, it felt safe.

It's just a question of how to go faster.

The one place I know I can save
some time is the Boot Flake.

We'll go faster if I just skip that piece.

(birds chirping)

But that's a line I'm
just not willing to cross.

(slow dramatic music)

Yeah I thought that was fun
today, I didn't feel wigged,

it felt super fun.

- That was so fun.

I'm glad that we retouched
all the safety stuff

I think it's totally fine.

- Yeah.

- So I would have to shave
another five off the bottom?

- [Alex] Yeah.

- The last piece of the
puzzle was how to go faster

on that bottom section.

I set up a self belay,
rehearsed every move

so that I could it totally flawlessly.

If I can shave that five minutes,

I'd be holding up my end of the bargain.

- Good morning.

- [Other Climbers] Good morning.

- [Rock Climber] Congratulations.

- Oh thanks.

Goin again today.

- Let's say today is gonna
be a little less casual.

(birds chirping)

- [Alex] Nice and relaxed.

- [Tommy] Okay ready.

- [Alex] Yup.

(watch beeps)

(dramatic music)

- [Alex] Whoa Tommy.

(dramatic music)

Tommy was charging to Sickle.

I mean most people spend the whole day

getting to Sickle.

Wow, 11, 06.

- [Tommy] Holy shit.

- [Alex] And there goes
Tommy blitzing to Sickle

in 11 minutes, it's completely outrageous.

Get it, get it, get it.

(dramatic music)

(music drowns out speech)

- [Alex] Where you guys from?

(music drowns out speech)

- [Tommy] I'm on the Bolt!

- [Alex] Okay I have you on set.

You're on normal belay.

(music drowns out speech)

- [Alex] Man that was really fast, 56.

- [Tommy] Wow, five minutes faster.

- [Alex] Nice work!

Okay your line's fixed!

Tommy puts in an amazing effort

and puts us in a position to succeed

and I'm obligated to do my best

to see us through to the end.

(dramatic music)

- [Tommy] Yeah AleX!

Crushing dude!

(dramatic music)

Alex is rocketing up these
steep amazing pitches

2500 feet off the ground.

God he's just so in his element.

Seeing him climbing with
absolute grace and confidence

I mean that's perfection.

(hooks rattling)

(hook clipping)

(hooks rattling)

Yeah Alex!

- [Alex] All right, fixed.

- [Tommy] Climbing with him up there

I get to not only witness but
to be part of that mastery.

- [Alex] I'm on top Tommy!

- [Tommy] Okay!

And do something together,
it feels, transcendent.

- Come on Tommy!

Come on, go fast!

Yeah Tommy come on!

(Tommy breathing heavily)

Yeah, yeah Tommy!

- We do it?

- [Alex] Oh yeah.

(Tommy cheers)

- Oh my God.

Oh my God.

(Tommy breathing heavily)

(Tommy grunts)

- What do we got?

- I'll come show you.

(Tommy grunts)

- Oh that was so sick dude.

Good work.

- Fuck yeah.

Yeah!

Dude, one, 58, one, 58, 07.

- Whoa!

- Yeah!
- Killed it!

Yeah, sick.

- Sick.

- Wow beat it by two minutes.

- Yeah, let's never do this again.

(Tommy laughs)

- Good work dude, you were charging.

I actually smelled burning
rubber at one point

and I was like that's appropriate.

- [Rebecca On Phone] Hello?

- Hey baby.

- [Rebecca On Phone] You did it!

- We did it!

- [Rebecca On Phone] Come
on, are you guys psyched?

- Yeah.

- The thing is 'cause
if we kept goin forever

I bet we could go to like
one, 45 or something but--

- Oh God, that sounds real painful.

- [Rebecca On Phone] We
don't need to do that.

- Yeah no I don't wanna do that.

- Alex said he felt emotional
when he felt the timer.

- [Rebecca On Phone]
Are you gonna cry Alex?

- No no, the feeling has past,

I already feel like we kinda sucked

and we should of done better.

- [Tommy] Yeah.

- [Rebecca On Phone] Well I'd be crying

if you guys didn't do it right now.

(both laughing)

- Yup.

- [Tommy] Yo Hans.

- [Hans On Phone] Congratulations guys.

- [Alex] Oh you saw it?

- Thank you.
- Yeah thanks.

- Pretty exciting huh?

- [Hans On Phone] Are you guys done?

- [Both In Unison] Yeah
we're done, we're good.

- One, 58, 07, we're calling it good.

- Yeah yeah, I'm psyched with that.

- [Hans On Phone] Hold on, hold on.

One, 58, 07 right?

- Yup yup.

- [Hans On Phone] Okay
that's the official time

that we'll go with.

- Yeah that's the official time.

You can go ahead and etch that into stone,

that's the official time.

(dramatic music)

- That probably knocks Brad
and Jim out of the game.

(Tommy laughs)

- That was the goal all along.

- Yeah exactly.

Come on who cares about breaking two,

let's just break Brads spirit.

(Tommy laughs)

Just kidding Brad.

(Tommy laughs)

(slow music)