House of Cardin (2019) - full transcript
A rare peek into the mind of a genius, chronicling the life and design of Cardin. Exclusive access to his archives and his empire, and unprecedented interviews at the sunset of a glorious career.
[interviewer 1 in French]
[in French]
[Tony in English]
If you're going to become
an international brand,
you have to have a name
people can pronounce.
[in French]
Cardin, un.
-Pierre Cardin.
-Pierre Cardin.
-Pierre Cardin.
-Pierre Cardin.
-Pierre.
-Pierre.
-Pierre.
-Pierre.
-Pierre Cardin.
-Pierre... Pierre...
-Pierre?
-Pierre.
Pierre?
Pierre Cardin.
-Cardin.
-Cardin.
-Cardin.
-Cardin.
Cardin...
[stammers]
Pierre Car--
Oh, you should just say it.
-[chuckling]
-Just say it, I'll drink.
That'd be Pierre Cardin.
You know, Pierre Cardin.
There's no one on the planet
who's not going to recognize
that name.
That's an exaggeration,
but it's not far from the truth.
Pierre Cardin.
[upbeat music]
[indistinct chatter]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[camera shutter clicking]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[indistinct chatter]
[in French]
[in Italian]
[chuckles]
[upbeat music]
[Fang in Chinese]
[in English]
In a word, chic.
[Amber] Many of his ideas
have become
mainstays
of the fashion industry.
They were incredibly original
and innovative
when he brought them to play.
He just revolutionized
our business.
[in French]
[Philippe in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[Jean-Paul in French]
[Laurence in French]
[in French]
[Jean in French]
[man 1 in French]
[man 2 in French]
-[man 3 in English]
-[woman 1 in Italian]
[man 4 in French]
[Sharon in English]
A control freak.
[Amy in English]
A label, a logo, a legend.
-[man 5 in French]
-[man 6 in Italian]
-[both in French]
-[in Italian]
What's not to admire?
[upbeat music]
[Jean-Paul in French]
[Renée in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[laughing]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[applause]
-[Renée speaking French]
-[audience laughing]
[Pierre in French]
[students in French]
[Pierre in French]
[John in French]
[Pierre in French]
[student 1 in French]
[in French]
-[student 2 in French]
-[Pierre in French]
[students in French]
[student 3 in French]
[in English]
When Cardin takes someone in
and someone joins
the House of Cardin,
you're like, joining a family.
-[Pierre in French]
-[Matthew in French]
[in French]
[lively music]
[Tony in English]
The way I think, of course,
is that he's thought of as
French designer Pierre Cardin.
And he's not. He's Italian.
[both in French]
[in Italian]
[Daniele in Italian]
[Rodrigo in Italian]
[in Italian]
[in French]
[newsreel narrator]
Mussolini's road to power
began in 1922
when his fascist Blackshirts
marched on Rome.
[Rodrigo in Italian]
[train rumbling]
[Pierre in French]
[train whistling]
[Pierre in French]
[interviewer 2 in French]
[in French]
[interviewer 2 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[explosion]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
[ominous music]
[young Pierre in French]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[newsreel narrator in English]
"Vive la France"
shout rings from every throat,
including that of mademoiselle.
[young Pierre in French]
[lively acoustic music]
[Pierre in French]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 3 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[grandiose music]
[young Pierre in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in English]
It was a much smaller clique
or group of people
in those days.
So Bérard knew Cocteau,
Cocteau knew Christian Dior,
and so on.
[Pierre in French]
[chuckles]
[interviewer 4 in French]
[laughing]
[both in French]
[chuckles]
[all laughing]
[Claude in French]
[Pierre in French]
[Claude in French]
[both in French]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[in French]
[Naomi in English]
At the end of the day,
the real designers are the ones
that know how to tailor.
They can never be starving.
You can tailor, you can eat.
[Amy in English]
Immediately after World War II,
he is connected to all these
social events that are legends.
He dressed Christian Dior
as a lion.
Cardin made that costume.
This is 1948.
And then at the Beistegui Ball,
one of the great costume balls
of the century,
he contributed
through the costumes.
[newsreel narrator]
On the Regio Canal, Venice,
the Labia Palace
is transformed for one night
into a scene
of 18th century glory.
[Pierre in French]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[upbeat music]
[in French]
[Maryse in French]
[in French]
[Jean-Paul in French]
[both in French]
[Pierre in French]
[laughing]
[in French]
[designer 1 in French]
[designer 2 speaking French]
[in French]
[designer 3 in French]
[Maryse in French]
[machine whirring]
[indistinct dialogue]
[both in French]
[Pierre in French]
[both in French]
[Pierre in English]
Fourteen floors full of clothes.
[calm music]
[designer 4 in French]
[in French]
[lively music]
[newsreel narrator in English]
Here's the latest look
from Paris, filmed in Paris.
[Maryse in French]
[John in French]
[Philippe in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Maryse in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[Renée in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
[interviewer 6 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 7 in French]
[Laurence in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[Maryse in French]
-[interviewer 5 in French]
-[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[lively music]
[woman 2 in French]
[woman 2 and Pierre
speaking French]
[Pierre in French]
[Siti in French]
[young Pierre in English]
[Tony] He really brought that
to the fore
during the '50s and '60s
where we were changing our idea
as to what could be
in a fashion magazine.
Even from the very beginning,
he didn't go
for the conventional set
of mannequins at that time.
If he felt that they were right
to show his creations
and express his creativity
and his designs,
and he chose
in the right frame of mind.
[interviewer 8 in French]
[in French]
[interviewer 8 in French]
[Hiroko in French]
[in Japanese]
[Pierre in French]
[Tony in English]
It was a perfect marriage
of model and designer.
Once she was established,
we knew that she was the one
that would be wearing
the main pieces of the season
because she did have
a real knack for wearing Cardin
that none of them quite had.
[lively music]
[Dionne] The diversity
was quite refreshing.
Because during the '60s,
here in the States,
we were experiencing
some true ugliness.
I... didn't like
what my country was doing
to people that look like me.
I still don't.
[Dionne] In the '60s,
he decided that it was okay
to use a Japanese person.
It's okay to use a person
that looked like me
with brown skin.
What he was selling
was not a color of skin.
[Jenny in English]
It's very important
that Hiroko was a model
in the '50s because it changes
your perception
of a Japanese woman
or what beauty can be.
I was a Japanese,
tattooed lesbian
I didn't want to ever model.
But what made me do it was
because there's nobody that
represented anything like that.
And I thought,
"You know what, if there's
a window of opportunity..."
Politically,
it had to be done with fashion.
I mean, you can reach
billions of people
with a cover of a magazine.
[Naomi]
He was extremely instrumental
in being one of the designers
to use models of diversity
and go color.
So, for that, I thank him.
The 1960s is this key decade
in fashion
where we start to see
this idea of
"Pre-war hierarchies of society
should be broken down."
[Amber] What's being called
the "youthquake"
was a really big part of this.
Breaking from the past,
not wanting to wear
what your parents wore.
[in French]
[Renée in French]
[Claude in French]
[in French]
[Claude in French]
[Trina in English]
His clothing
definitely moved away
from having anything to do
with the actual shape
of the female form.
So, of course, if you're wearing
an A-line dress,
it's much easier to move around
than it is if you're wearing,
you know,
a very tight-fitted dress.
So in a sense, I think that
being able to move freely
is empowering!
It was not only women
and women and freedom
but here is
a colorful exclamation point
at the end of a sentence.
[thrilling music]
I see Pierre Cardin
as somebody who was
a feminist, who understood,
also, what women
from the '60s and '70s needed
in a designer.
[Alexandra] So, Pierre Cardin
was one of the first
to really create
beautiful silhouettes,
beautiful clothes
that were reasonably priced
and were made of materials
that were practical,
that you could wash and wear
or dry clean.
It's just...
it's just beautiful.
-If I stand up, will you see it?
-[interviewer 9] Yeah.
Okay, because it really is,
it really is kind of amazing.
With Cardin, men's wear changed
so dramatically.
[Tony] Because men's wear
was so based around
that men wore suits.
So once we started to relax,
a lot of people wanted Cardin,
because it was modern,
and it was young,
and it was different
[TV announcer]
Paul, John, George, and Ringo.
[interviewer 10]
[John] We got it
from Pierre Cardin.
-[interviewer 10] From whom?
-[all] Pierre Cardin.
When you're looking
at a magazine,
you go through the Dior,
the Balmain, the Nina Ricci
and then you get to Cardin,
and you go,
"Wow! I've turned the page
and I've gone from sexy women
with a rolled umbrella
and a little hat,
and suddenly, I've got a girl
with a geometric
Vidal Sassoon haircut
and this amazing look,
and it's modern."
It says modern.
[Kennedy] No man can fully grasp
how far and how fast
we have come.
Man and his quest for knowledge
and progress is determined
and cannot be deterred.
The exploration of space
will go ahead.
[thrilling music]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[Jean-Paul in French]
[Pierre in French]
[Pierre in French]
[Renée in French]
[in French]
[Amy in English]
Well, the circle
is a perfect form.
A circle is also a sphere,
which is a globe,
which is a universe
that he occupies.
I mean, he covers the globe.
He always has thought globally.
It also was a symbol
of eternity,
and Pierre Cardin seems
to be forever.
[Jean-Michel in French]
[Pierre in French]
[dramatic music]
[young Pierre in French]
[Amy in English]
He was just a futurist.
He was a futurist
in the way the designs looked,
he was a futurist in his idea
of how fashion can be
a business,
he was a futurist in his,
sort of, all-encompassing,
all-embracing idea of art
and performance art
and architecture and fashion
of being of one piece.
[young Pierre in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[John in French]
[Christopher in English]
There's always something extra.
It's true for his furniture,
and it's true for his clothes.
And I think that's
what makes him so appealing.
There's always a cherry on top.
[in French]
[Philippe in French]
[snips]
[Florent in French]
[calm music]
[Pierre in French]
[indistinct dialogue]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[all in French]
-[woman 3 in French]
-[Pierre in French]
[woman 3 in French]
-[woman 4 in French]
-[Pierre speaking French]
[Pierre in French]
[lively music]
[Pierre in French]
[man 7 laughs]
[in French]
[laughter and applause]
[speaking French]
[both in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[in Italian]
[Rodrigo in Italian]
[Rodrigo in French]
[in French]
[piano playing]
[Rodrigo in French]
[in French]
[both in French]
[upbeat music]
[Mark in English]
Pierre Cardin was one
of the pioneers
in making eyewear fashionable.
Both sunglasses
and prescription.
Prior to Pierre Cardin,
the choices in eyewear were
gold rim, tortoise, black,
and a combo frame
like what Kevin Costner wore
in JFK.
All through the '70s and '80s,
it was Pierre Cardin
that propelled
the eyewear industry
into designer.
[ James Bond theme music]
[Amy] He certainly put power
in the logo.
[Christopher] The Helvetica.
The anthromorphic, bimorphic PC.
[Amy] He is not the first one
to put the logo on the outside,
but he's one of the first
to know that he didn't have
to do it discreetly.
Branding is really
a perfect way of telling people,
"I am aligning myself with the,
you know, aesthetic principles
of this particular designer,
but I understand good taste."
[man 8] Clear the runway.
[in Japanese]
[in Japanese]
[Yoshio in Japanese]
[in Japanese]
[Yori in Japanese]
[in English]
If the identification--
There's a brand identification.
I mean, you could say
the same thing happens
with beer or cigarettes.
[young Pierre in French]
[upbeat music]
[in French]
[Michael in English]
What's been described
as licensing, we now
fully recognize as branding.
I think the first time I heard
about Pierre Cardin,
was because someone I was dating
was wearing the cologne.
[Pierre in French]
[Alice in English]
It's just like clothes.
What's the new fragrance?
The Pierre Cardin.
If you didn't have that,
you weren't cool.
[Sharon]
The bottle was fantastic.
It was so chic.
Architecturally
just extraordinary.
[Christopher] Part of what
makes it so provocative and fun,
obviously, references a penis.
That's sex.
[in French]
[upbeat music]
[Christopher in English]
Even this sort of
inexpensive towels
have a graphic image
that evokes Pierre Cardin.
Wait, he did an AMC Javelin?
[TV advertiser] With elegant
and colorful upholstery,
classy door panels,
and chic headliner.
The Cardin Javelin
was really fully realized.
It, it was pretty awesome.
[Bob] The Cardin option
really gave them
a piece of distinction
that no other manufacturer had.
Not content
to being earth-bound,
he lent his brand and his ethos
to a plane.
An executive jet by West Wind.
[Pierre in French]
[Philippe in French]
[in French]
[in English]
It seems to me
that it would've been
an impossible task
to keep track of it all.
And, so at some point,
there's some licensee
somewhere in the world,
going rogue and just creating
whatever they want and putting
a Pierre Cardin label on it.
[in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
[in English]
From the very beginning,
he never accepted any money.
He never took a loan
from a bank.
He's that clever
as a businessperson.
[Matthew] Dior,
the Houses of Dior,
and the other Houses,
they have been developed.
But they've been developed
by marketing teams
and by marriages and alliances
with other big corporations.
Pierre Cardin
belongs to Pierre Cardin.
[young Pierre in French]
[Amy in English]
Pierre Cardin on the cover
of Time Magazine
is proof of the fact that he was
well-regarded,
not just as a designer
of frivolities for women,
but also as a empire-builder.
[grandiose music]
[in French]
[in English]
Welcome to Maxim, my friend!
[in French]
[calm music]
[in French]
[Tony in English]
Of all the things he would buy,
in Paris,
he would buy the oldest
Art Nouveau Restaurant.
[in French]
[in French]
[in English]
Please.
[tranquil music]
[in French]
[Pierre-André in French]
[in French]
[both in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in English]
With Cardin,
in spite of all the modernity,
in spite of all the synthetics,
in spite of all the shine,
it doesn't have
a coldness to it.
And that, I think,
maybe that there's still
that little bit
of the Italian warmth
sitting somewhere inside
his genetic make-up.
Maybe it's also the fact
that he has a certain warmth
as a person which we may
or may not always see
in his public persona.
He's creating for tomorrow,
but not as a challenge
to frighten or scare us.
He's designing for tomorrow
because that's where
he's looking.
[in French]
[Amy in English]
That already introduced
that idea of fantasy.
And big part of his fantasy is,
like, what is
a world of the future.
The world of the future he saw
as something global.
[Amy] He was in Japan
when you hardly saw
Japanese in western clothing.
He was in China
when everyone was still
in a Mao uniform.
He was in the Soviet Union
when there was no fashion
at all.
I mean, whoever thought
of these places as markets?
Countries that didn't have
even the freedom
to wear the clothes
that they wanted to wear.
[in French]
[lively music]
[TV announcer in Japanese]
[Kenzo in Japanese]
[Kenzo in Japanese]
[Yumi in Japanese]
[in Japanese]
[Hanae in Japanese]
[in Japanese]
[TV announcer in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
[uplifting music]
[Haiban in Chinese]
[in Chinese]
[Fang in Chinese]
[in Chinese]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[calm music]
[young Pierre in French]
[Fang in Chinese]
[tranquil music]
[Guo in Chinese]
[tranquil music]
[Guo in Chinese]
[in Chinese]
[Siti in French]
[interviewer 6 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in Chinese]
[Jerry in Chinese]
[dramatic music]
[Maryse in French]
[dramatic music]
[dramatic music continues]
[interviewer 11 in French]
[in French]
[TV announcer in English]
How many million dollars
did this man make last year?
His name is Pierre Cardin.
[interviewer 12 in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[upbeat music]
[TV announcer in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Jean-Michel in French]
[Renée in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Daniele in Italian]
[in French]
[calm music]
[in French]
[Dionne in English]
Burt Bacharach
was the musical conductor
for Marlene Dietrich.
So apparently Burt let her know,
"Big girl's coming over."
She did my sound check,
she did my lighting.
Then proceeded to walk
into my dressing room
to look at the clothing
that we're to wear.
She took, hanger and all,
threw them in the hall.
She was throwing my clothes out.
I thought the lady lost
her mind, okay?
I didn't know her,
she didn't know me.
As she's throwing them out,
I'm picking them up.
And she says, "Oh, no, no, no.
You do not wear this."
[Dionne] "You must wear
only couture."
That's why Pierre Cardin's
on the cover of
Make Way for Dionne Warwick.
He was at, I think,
every performance I did.
♪ What do you get
When you fall in love? ♪
♪ A guy with a pin
To burst your bubble ♪
♪ That's what you get
For all... ♪
[indistinct chatter]
[Alice in English]
We get to the Pierre Cardin 30
and it's just beautiful.
All glass, and I'm going,
"Really?
They want us to play here?
We're used to playing
in dungeons."
[in French]
[rock music]
[Alice in English]
'71 was the year that we had
pretty much terrified everybody
in rock and roll.
So, there we are,
getting ready to do our show,
and they come running in
and they say,
"They're rioting outside.
They took Omar Sharif's
Rolls-Royce
and ran it through
the glass window."
They put Neo, my drummer,
and myself
in a closet, a broom closet,
with Bianca Jagger
and Catherine Deneuve.
We're like this.
And I went,
"I love riots and Paris."
[laughs]
[Alice] Well,
you think back on it now,
20/20 hindsight,
the idea of bringing
Alice Cooper
into a theater like that,
I think he probably knew
there was going to be a riot.
And that didn't bother him
one bit.
[Pierre in French]
-[Pierre in French]
-[men laugh]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[interviewer 12 in French]
[in French]
[upbeat music]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[Fabienne in French]
[in French]
[woman 5 singing]
[director speaking French]
[in French]
[chuckles]
[young Pierre in French]
[calm music]
[Rodrigo in French]
[grandiose music]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[applause]
[in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[director speaking French
in background]
[in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[in English]
I do remember when I met him,
I was probably 20.
And I remember him saying to me,
"Your beauty
is like a white rose."
And I was so shy,
but it was such a big deal
that he noticed me, I felt.
And that he said this
very particular thing to me.
Started to make me think
that women all have
a particular kind of beauty.
And that we're all like flowers.
And that we're all
different kinds of flowers.
It's something
that stayed with me,
really stayed with me,
and really meant a lot to me.
[in French]
[in French]
[upbeat music]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in English]
Watching Jeanne Moreau walk
through a parking lot?
[Sharon] Is...
akin to watching
any other actress
do a three-page monologue.
[Josée in French]
[Pierre in French]
[Josée in French]
[in French]
[Amy in English]
I guess a lot of people doubted
there was something there,
because they're more accustomed
to the idea of Pierre Cardin
with a man than a woman.
But, my God, if you're going
to make an exception,
then why not Miss Jeanne Moreau?
[interviewer 13 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Josée in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Jeanne in French]
[Tony in English]
We're so used, now,
knowing
everyone's private lives.
It's difficult to understand
that years ago,
people didn't feel
it was necessary
for it to be part
of their discussion
with a journalist
or an interview
or the motivation
for their seasonal collection.
And I think it's interesting
that with some designers,
you don't really know
an awful lot
about their private lives.
[Tony] With Cardin,
he didn't need to have
a banner headline saying,
"Here he is."
[young Pierre in English]
[in French]
[in French]
[Jean-Paul in French]
[in French]
[in English]
[rock music]
[in English]
[rock music]
[in English]
[rock music]
♪ My heart flutters
When my sunshine fades away ♪
♪ What kind of colors could I
Bleed to make you stay ♪
[Christopher in English]
Of course, in 1961,
Pierre Cardin takes up
with Jeanne Moreau.
And so, Andre Oliver moves out
of Pierre Cardin's house.
[in French]
[in French]
[Amy in English]
The relationship
between Andre and Pierre Cardin
survived this incident
and, hey, if I were Andre,
I would rather have infidelity
with a woman than with a man.
[in English]
But, in the sort of history,
one gets the sense of him
as this sort of rock.
He's introduced at the end
of the runway shows
which is kind of
a remarkable thing, right?
You don't see Alexander McQueen
introduce somebody else.
[Jean-Paul in French]
[Jean-Michel in French]
[Christopher in English]
Andre Oliver dies in 1993
from AIDS.
[in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[somber music]
[interviewer 2 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 2 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[indistinct chatter]
[Florent in French]
[both in French]
[speaking French]
[speaking French continues]
[Rodrigo in French]
-[both laughing]
-Okay.
[Maryse in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[both in French]
[Pierre in French]
[producer in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
What do I know about
what he's doing?
I know he's hoping to build
this tower in Venice.
I don't think he's going
to leave this planet
until he sees that thing built.
[Rodrigo in French]
[producer in French]
-[Pierre in French]
-[producer in French]
[in French]
[calm music]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[producer in French]
[in French]
[Jean-Michel in French]
[interviewer 14 in French]
[in French]
[Laurence in French]
[producer in French]
[in French]
[producer in French]
[speaking French]
[in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[Pierre singing]
[in English]
One more time.
-No.
-[laughing]
[in French]
[in Japanese]
[in English]
Oh, I'm sure he's going
to come for it again
and again and again.
[chuckles]
Yeah.
People will always be inspired.
He's one of the greats.
[in French]
[in English]
I feel younger.
[in French]
[upbeat music]
[in French]
[Tony in English]
If you're going to become
an international brand,
you have to have a name
people can pronounce.
[in French]
Cardin, un.
-Pierre Cardin.
-Pierre Cardin.
-Pierre Cardin.
-Pierre Cardin.
-Pierre.
-Pierre.
-Pierre.
-Pierre.
-Pierre Cardin.
-Pierre... Pierre...
-Pierre?
-Pierre.
Pierre?
Pierre Cardin.
-Cardin.
-Cardin.
-Cardin.
-Cardin.
Cardin...
[stammers]
Pierre Car--
Oh, you should just say it.
-[chuckling]
-Just say it, I'll drink.
That'd be Pierre Cardin.
You know, Pierre Cardin.
There's no one on the planet
who's not going to recognize
that name.
That's an exaggeration,
but it's not far from the truth.
Pierre Cardin.
[upbeat music]
[indistinct chatter]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[camera shutter clicking]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[indistinct chatter]
[in French]
[in Italian]
[chuckles]
[upbeat music]
[Fang in Chinese]
[in English]
In a word, chic.
[Amber] Many of his ideas
have become
mainstays
of the fashion industry.
They were incredibly original
and innovative
when he brought them to play.
He just revolutionized
our business.
[in French]
[Philippe in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[Jean-Paul in French]
[Laurence in French]
[in French]
[Jean in French]
[man 1 in French]
[man 2 in French]
-[man 3 in English]
-[woman 1 in Italian]
[man 4 in French]
[Sharon in English]
A control freak.
[Amy in English]
A label, a logo, a legend.
-[man 5 in French]
-[man 6 in Italian]
-[both in French]
-[in Italian]
What's not to admire?
[upbeat music]
[Jean-Paul in French]
[Renée in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[laughing]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[applause]
-[Renée speaking French]
-[audience laughing]
[Pierre in French]
[students in French]
[Pierre in French]
[John in French]
[Pierre in French]
[student 1 in French]
[in French]
-[student 2 in French]
-[Pierre in French]
[students in French]
[student 3 in French]
[in English]
When Cardin takes someone in
and someone joins
the House of Cardin,
you're like, joining a family.
-[Pierre in French]
-[Matthew in French]
[in French]
[lively music]
[Tony in English]
The way I think, of course,
is that he's thought of as
French designer Pierre Cardin.
And he's not. He's Italian.
[both in French]
[in Italian]
[Daniele in Italian]
[Rodrigo in Italian]
[in Italian]
[in French]
[newsreel narrator]
Mussolini's road to power
began in 1922
when his fascist Blackshirts
marched on Rome.
[Rodrigo in Italian]
[train rumbling]
[Pierre in French]
[train whistling]
[Pierre in French]
[interviewer 2 in French]
[in French]
[interviewer 2 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[explosion]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
[ominous music]
[young Pierre in French]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[newsreel narrator in English]
"Vive la France"
shout rings from every throat,
including that of mademoiselle.
[young Pierre in French]
[lively acoustic music]
[Pierre in French]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 3 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[grandiose music]
[young Pierre in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in English]
It was a much smaller clique
or group of people
in those days.
So Bérard knew Cocteau,
Cocteau knew Christian Dior,
and so on.
[Pierre in French]
[chuckles]
[interviewer 4 in French]
[laughing]
[both in French]
[chuckles]
[all laughing]
[Claude in French]
[Pierre in French]
[Claude in French]
[both in French]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[in French]
[Naomi in English]
At the end of the day,
the real designers are the ones
that know how to tailor.
They can never be starving.
You can tailor, you can eat.
[Amy in English]
Immediately after World War II,
he is connected to all these
social events that are legends.
He dressed Christian Dior
as a lion.
Cardin made that costume.
This is 1948.
And then at the Beistegui Ball,
one of the great costume balls
of the century,
he contributed
through the costumes.
[newsreel narrator]
On the Regio Canal, Venice,
the Labia Palace
is transformed for one night
into a scene
of 18th century glory.
[Pierre in French]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[upbeat music]
[in French]
[Maryse in French]
[in French]
[Jean-Paul in French]
[both in French]
[Pierre in French]
[laughing]
[in French]
[designer 1 in French]
[designer 2 speaking French]
[in French]
[designer 3 in French]
[Maryse in French]
[machine whirring]
[indistinct dialogue]
[both in French]
[Pierre in French]
[both in French]
[Pierre in English]
Fourteen floors full of clothes.
[calm music]
[designer 4 in French]
[in French]
[lively music]
[newsreel narrator in English]
Here's the latest look
from Paris, filmed in Paris.
[Maryse in French]
[John in French]
[Philippe in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Maryse in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[Renée in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
[interviewer 6 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 7 in French]
[Laurence in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[Maryse in French]
-[interviewer 5 in French]
-[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[lively music]
[woman 2 in French]
[woman 2 and Pierre
speaking French]
[Pierre in French]
[Siti in French]
[young Pierre in English]
[Tony] He really brought that
to the fore
during the '50s and '60s
where we were changing our idea
as to what could be
in a fashion magazine.
Even from the very beginning,
he didn't go
for the conventional set
of mannequins at that time.
If he felt that they were right
to show his creations
and express his creativity
and his designs,
and he chose
in the right frame of mind.
[interviewer 8 in French]
[in French]
[interviewer 8 in French]
[Hiroko in French]
[in Japanese]
[Pierre in French]
[Tony in English]
It was a perfect marriage
of model and designer.
Once she was established,
we knew that she was the one
that would be wearing
the main pieces of the season
because she did have
a real knack for wearing Cardin
that none of them quite had.
[lively music]
[Dionne] The diversity
was quite refreshing.
Because during the '60s,
here in the States,
we were experiencing
some true ugliness.
I... didn't like
what my country was doing
to people that look like me.
I still don't.
[Dionne] In the '60s,
he decided that it was okay
to use a Japanese person.
It's okay to use a person
that looked like me
with brown skin.
What he was selling
was not a color of skin.
[Jenny in English]
It's very important
that Hiroko was a model
in the '50s because it changes
your perception
of a Japanese woman
or what beauty can be.
I was a Japanese,
tattooed lesbian
I didn't want to ever model.
But what made me do it was
because there's nobody that
represented anything like that.
And I thought,
"You know what, if there's
a window of opportunity..."
Politically,
it had to be done with fashion.
I mean, you can reach
billions of people
with a cover of a magazine.
[Naomi]
He was extremely instrumental
in being one of the designers
to use models of diversity
and go color.
So, for that, I thank him.
The 1960s is this key decade
in fashion
where we start to see
this idea of
"Pre-war hierarchies of society
should be broken down."
[Amber] What's being called
the "youthquake"
was a really big part of this.
Breaking from the past,
not wanting to wear
what your parents wore.
[in French]
[Renée in French]
[Claude in French]
[in French]
[Claude in French]
[Trina in English]
His clothing
definitely moved away
from having anything to do
with the actual shape
of the female form.
So, of course, if you're wearing
an A-line dress,
it's much easier to move around
than it is if you're wearing,
you know,
a very tight-fitted dress.
So in a sense, I think that
being able to move freely
is empowering!
It was not only women
and women and freedom
but here is
a colorful exclamation point
at the end of a sentence.
[thrilling music]
I see Pierre Cardin
as somebody who was
a feminist, who understood,
also, what women
from the '60s and '70s needed
in a designer.
[Alexandra] So, Pierre Cardin
was one of the first
to really create
beautiful silhouettes,
beautiful clothes
that were reasonably priced
and were made of materials
that were practical,
that you could wash and wear
or dry clean.
It's just...
it's just beautiful.
-If I stand up, will you see it?
-[interviewer 9] Yeah.
Okay, because it really is,
it really is kind of amazing.
With Cardin, men's wear changed
so dramatically.
[Tony] Because men's wear
was so based around
that men wore suits.
So once we started to relax,
a lot of people wanted Cardin,
because it was modern,
and it was young,
and it was different
[TV announcer]
Paul, John, George, and Ringo.
[interviewer 10]
[John] We got it
from Pierre Cardin.
-[interviewer 10] From whom?
-[all] Pierre Cardin.
When you're looking
at a magazine,
you go through the Dior,
the Balmain, the Nina Ricci
and then you get to Cardin,
and you go,
"Wow! I've turned the page
and I've gone from sexy women
with a rolled umbrella
and a little hat,
and suddenly, I've got a girl
with a geometric
Vidal Sassoon haircut
and this amazing look,
and it's modern."
It says modern.
[Kennedy] No man can fully grasp
how far and how fast
we have come.
Man and his quest for knowledge
and progress is determined
and cannot be deterred.
The exploration of space
will go ahead.
[thrilling music]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[Jean-Paul in French]
[Pierre in French]
[Pierre in French]
[Renée in French]
[in French]
[Amy in English]
Well, the circle
is a perfect form.
A circle is also a sphere,
which is a globe,
which is a universe
that he occupies.
I mean, he covers the globe.
He always has thought globally.
It also was a symbol
of eternity,
and Pierre Cardin seems
to be forever.
[Jean-Michel in French]
[Pierre in French]
[dramatic music]
[young Pierre in French]
[Amy in English]
He was just a futurist.
He was a futurist
in the way the designs looked,
he was a futurist in his idea
of how fashion can be
a business,
he was a futurist in his,
sort of, all-encompassing,
all-embracing idea of art
and performance art
and architecture and fashion
of being of one piece.
[young Pierre in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[John in French]
[Christopher in English]
There's always something extra.
It's true for his furniture,
and it's true for his clothes.
And I think that's
what makes him so appealing.
There's always a cherry on top.
[in French]
[Philippe in French]
[snips]
[Florent in French]
[calm music]
[Pierre in French]
[indistinct dialogue]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[all in French]
-[woman 3 in French]
-[Pierre in French]
[woman 3 in French]
-[woman 4 in French]
-[Pierre speaking French]
[Pierre in French]
[lively music]
[Pierre in French]
[man 7 laughs]
[in French]
[laughter and applause]
[speaking French]
[both in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[in Italian]
[Rodrigo in Italian]
[Rodrigo in French]
[in French]
[piano playing]
[Rodrigo in French]
[in French]
[both in French]
[upbeat music]
[Mark in English]
Pierre Cardin was one
of the pioneers
in making eyewear fashionable.
Both sunglasses
and prescription.
Prior to Pierre Cardin,
the choices in eyewear were
gold rim, tortoise, black,
and a combo frame
like what Kevin Costner wore
in JFK.
All through the '70s and '80s,
it was Pierre Cardin
that propelled
the eyewear industry
into designer.
[ James Bond theme music]
[Amy] He certainly put power
in the logo.
[Christopher] The Helvetica.
The anthromorphic, bimorphic PC.
[Amy] He is not the first one
to put the logo on the outside,
but he's one of the first
to know that he didn't have
to do it discreetly.
Branding is really
a perfect way of telling people,
"I am aligning myself with the,
you know, aesthetic principles
of this particular designer,
but I understand good taste."
[man 8] Clear the runway.
[in Japanese]
[in Japanese]
[Yoshio in Japanese]
[in Japanese]
[Yori in Japanese]
[in English]
If the identification--
There's a brand identification.
I mean, you could say
the same thing happens
with beer or cigarettes.
[young Pierre in French]
[upbeat music]
[in French]
[Michael in English]
What's been described
as licensing, we now
fully recognize as branding.
I think the first time I heard
about Pierre Cardin,
was because someone I was dating
was wearing the cologne.
[Pierre in French]
[Alice in English]
It's just like clothes.
What's the new fragrance?
The Pierre Cardin.
If you didn't have that,
you weren't cool.
[Sharon]
The bottle was fantastic.
It was so chic.
Architecturally
just extraordinary.
[Christopher] Part of what
makes it so provocative and fun,
obviously, references a penis.
That's sex.
[in French]
[upbeat music]
[Christopher in English]
Even this sort of
inexpensive towels
have a graphic image
that evokes Pierre Cardin.
Wait, he did an AMC Javelin?
[TV advertiser] With elegant
and colorful upholstery,
classy door panels,
and chic headliner.
The Cardin Javelin
was really fully realized.
It, it was pretty awesome.
[Bob] The Cardin option
really gave them
a piece of distinction
that no other manufacturer had.
Not content
to being earth-bound,
he lent his brand and his ethos
to a plane.
An executive jet by West Wind.
[Pierre in French]
[Philippe in French]
[in French]
[in English]
It seems to me
that it would've been
an impossible task
to keep track of it all.
And, so at some point,
there's some licensee
somewhere in the world,
going rogue and just creating
whatever they want and putting
a Pierre Cardin label on it.
[in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
[in English]
From the very beginning,
he never accepted any money.
He never took a loan
from a bank.
He's that clever
as a businessperson.
[Matthew] Dior,
the Houses of Dior,
and the other Houses,
they have been developed.
But they've been developed
by marketing teams
and by marriages and alliances
with other big corporations.
Pierre Cardin
belongs to Pierre Cardin.
[young Pierre in French]
[Amy in English]
Pierre Cardin on the cover
of Time Magazine
is proof of the fact that he was
well-regarded,
not just as a designer
of frivolities for women,
but also as a empire-builder.
[grandiose music]
[in French]
[in English]
Welcome to Maxim, my friend!
[in French]
[calm music]
[in French]
[Tony in English]
Of all the things he would buy,
in Paris,
he would buy the oldest
Art Nouveau Restaurant.
[in French]
[in French]
[in English]
Please.
[tranquil music]
[in French]
[Pierre-André in French]
[in French]
[both in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in English]
With Cardin,
in spite of all the modernity,
in spite of all the synthetics,
in spite of all the shine,
it doesn't have
a coldness to it.
And that, I think,
maybe that there's still
that little bit
of the Italian warmth
sitting somewhere inside
his genetic make-up.
Maybe it's also the fact
that he has a certain warmth
as a person which we may
or may not always see
in his public persona.
He's creating for tomorrow,
but not as a challenge
to frighten or scare us.
He's designing for tomorrow
because that's where
he's looking.
[in French]
[Amy in English]
That already introduced
that idea of fantasy.
And big part of his fantasy is,
like, what is
a world of the future.
The world of the future he saw
as something global.
[Amy] He was in Japan
when you hardly saw
Japanese in western clothing.
He was in China
when everyone was still
in a Mao uniform.
He was in the Soviet Union
when there was no fashion
at all.
I mean, whoever thought
of these places as markets?
Countries that didn't have
even the freedom
to wear the clothes
that they wanted to wear.
[in French]
[lively music]
[TV announcer in Japanese]
[Kenzo in Japanese]
[Kenzo in Japanese]
[Yumi in Japanese]
[in Japanese]
[Hanae in Japanese]
[in Japanese]
[TV announcer in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
[uplifting music]
[Haiban in Chinese]
[in Chinese]
[Fang in Chinese]
[in Chinese]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[calm music]
[young Pierre in French]
[Fang in Chinese]
[tranquil music]
[Guo in Chinese]
[tranquil music]
[Guo in Chinese]
[in Chinese]
[Siti in French]
[interviewer 6 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[in Chinese]
[Jerry in Chinese]
[dramatic music]
[Maryse in French]
[dramatic music]
[dramatic music continues]
[interviewer 11 in French]
[in French]
[TV announcer in English]
How many million dollars
did this man make last year?
His name is Pierre Cardin.
[interviewer 12 in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[upbeat music]
[TV announcer in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Jean-Michel in French]
[Renée in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Daniele in Italian]
[in French]
[calm music]
[in French]
[Dionne in English]
Burt Bacharach
was the musical conductor
for Marlene Dietrich.
So apparently Burt let her know,
"Big girl's coming over."
She did my sound check,
she did my lighting.
Then proceeded to walk
into my dressing room
to look at the clothing
that we're to wear.
She took, hanger and all,
threw them in the hall.
She was throwing my clothes out.
I thought the lady lost
her mind, okay?
I didn't know her,
she didn't know me.
As she's throwing them out,
I'm picking them up.
And she says, "Oh, no, no, no.
You do not wear this."
[Dionne] "You must wear
only couture."
That's why Pierre Cardin's
on the cover of
Make Way for Dionne Warwick.
He was at, I think,
every performance I did.
♪ What do you get
When you fall in love? ♪
♪ A guy with a pin
To burst your bubble ♪
♪ That's what you get
For all... ♪
[indistinct chatter]
[Alice in English]
We get to the Pierre Cardin 30
and it's just beautiful.
All glass, and I'm going,
"Really?
They want us to play here?
We're used to playing
in dungeons."
[in French]
[rock music]
[Alice in English]
'71 was the year that we had
pretty much terrified everybody
in rock and roll.
So, there we are,
getting ready to do our show,
and they come running in
and they say,
"They're rioting outside.
They took Omar Sharif's
Rolls-Royce
and ran it through
the glass window."
They put Neo, my drummer,
and myself
in a closet, a broom closet,
with Bianca Jagger
and Catherine Deneuve.
We're like this.
And I went,
"I love riots and Paris."
[laughs]
[Alice] Well,
you think back on it now,
20/20 hindsight,
the idea of bringing
Alice Cooper
into a theater like that,
I think he probably knew
there was going to be a riot.
And that didn't bother him
one bit.
[Pierre in French]
-[Pierre in French]
-[men laugh]
[young Pierre in French]
[in French]
[interviewer 12 in French]
[in French]
[upbeat music]
[Jean-Pascal in French]
[Fabienne in French]
[in French]
[woman 5 singing]
[director speaking French]
[in French]
[chuckles]
[young Pierre in French]
[calm music]
[Rodrigo in French]
[grandiose music]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[applause]
[in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[director speaking French
in background]
[in French]
[Rodrigo in French]
[in English]
I do remember when I met him,
I was probably 20.
And I remember him saying to me,
"Your beauty
is like a white rose."
And I was so shy,
but it was such a big deal
that he noticed me, I felt.
And that he said this
very particular thing to me.
Started to make me think
that women all have
a particular kind of beauty.
And that we're all like flowers.
And that we're all
different kinds of flowers.
It's something
that stayed with me,
really stayed with me,
and really meant a lot to me.
[in French]
[in French]
[upbeat music]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in English]
Watching Jeanne Moreau walk
through a parking lot?
[Sharon] Is...
akin to watching
any other actress
do a three-page monologue.
[Josée in French]
[Pierre in French]
[Josée in French]
[in French]
[Amy in English]
I guess a lot of people doubted
there was something there,
because they're more accustomed
to the idea of Pierre Cardin
with a man than a woman.
But, my God, if you're going
to make an exception,
then why not Miss Jeanne Moreau?
[interviewer 13 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Josée in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[Jeanne in French]
[Tony in English]
We're so used, now,
knowing
everyone's private lives.
It's difficult to understand
that years ago,
people didn't feel
it was necessary
for it to be part
of their discussion
with a journalist
or an interview
or the motivation
for their seasonal collection.
And I think it's interesting
that with some designers,
you don't really know
an awful lot
about their private lives.
[Tony] With Cardin,
he didn't need to have
a banner headline saying,
"Here he is."
[young Pierre in English]
[in French]
[in French]
[Jean-Paul in French]
[in French]
[in English]
[rock music]
[in English]
[rock music]
[in English]
[rock music]
♪ My heart flutters
When my sunshine fades away ♪
♪ What kind of colors could I
Bleed to make you stay ♪
[Christopher in English]
Of course, in 1961,
Pierre Cardin takes up
with Jeanne Moreau.
And so, Andre Oliver moves out
of Pierre Cardin's house.
[in French]
[in French]
[Amy in English]
The relationship
between Andre and Pierre Cardin
survived this incident
and, hey, if I were Andre,
I would rather have infidelity
with a woman than with a man.
[in English]
But, in the sort of history,
one gets the sense of him
as this sort of rock.
He's introduced at the end
of the runway shows
which is kind of
a remarkable thing, right?
You don't see Alexander McQueen
introduce somebody else.
[Jean-Paul in French]
[Jean-Michel in French]
[Christopher in English]
Andre Oliver dies in 1993
from AIDS.
[in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[somber music]
[interviewer 2 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[interviewer 2 in French]
[young Pierre in French]
[indistinct chatter]
[Florent in French]
[both in French]
[speaking French]
[speaking French continues]
[Rodrigo in French]
-[both laughing]
-Okay.
[Maryse in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[both in French]
[Pierre in French]
[producer in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[in French]
What do I know about
what he's doing?
I know he's hoping to build
this tower in Venice.
I don't think he's going
to leave this planet
until he sees that thing built.
[Rodrigo in French]
[producer in French]
-[Pierre in French]
-[producer in French]
[in French]
[calm music]
[interviewer 5 in French]
[in French]
[Pierre in French]
[producer in French]
[in French]
[Jean-Michel in French]
[interviewer 14 in French]
[in French]
[Laurence in French]
[producer in French]
[in French]
[producer in French]
[speaking French]
[in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[in French]
[Pierre singing]
[in English]
One more time.
-No.
-[laughing]
[in French]
[in Japanese]
[in English]
Oh, I'm sure he's going
to come for it again
and again and again.
[chuckles]
Yeah.
People will always be inspired.
He's one of the greats.
[in French]
[in English]
I feel younger.
[in French]
[upbeat music]