Broad Peak (2022) - full transcript

Maciej Berbeka makes the first winter ascent of Broad Peak in 1988, escaping death by inches. Andrzej Zawada, the expedition leader, announces a great success. Once they return to Poland, it turns out Maciej reached "only" the Rocky Summit, which is twenty-three metros lower than the actual peak located one hour away. Resentful of his friends' lies, Berbeka withdraws from mountaineering. Twenty- -four years later, he takes a call from Krzysztof Wielicki, who also participated in the first expedition. "We have to finish what we started," says Krzysztof as he persuades Maciej to join the next Broad Peak expedition. After a long hesitation, Maciej decides to try once again.

NETFLIX PRESENTS

The '80s mark a series
of spectacular achievements

for Polish Himalayan mountaineers.

After the first winter ascents
of the Himalayan eight-thousanders,

they are ready for Karakoram,
the most inaccessible range in the world.

In winter '88, in extreme conditions,

"The Ice Warriors" want to reach
the second-highest summit on Earth.

Among them is Maciej Berbeka.

I don't like
reliving those events.

I don't want to.

I lost practically everything
on that expedition.



I don't think all of me
came back from there.

Broad Peak will remain in me forever.

And I in it.

KARAKORAM
MARCH 1988

Maciej, Maciej.
Where are you? Over.

Maciej, come in. Over.

A WEEK EARLIER

That winter,
we were struggling with K2.

From the glacier base,
we had a three-kilometer vertical climb.

And, after two months,
we had barely reached the halfway point.

So Alek Lwow had the idea
to climb the neighboring Broad Peak.

Just us two, without the whole team.

His idea was insane and risky.

At first, I didn't want to do it,



but soon I could no longer
escape the thought.

BALTORO GLACIER
BASE CAMP

It's three camps. Or maybe four.

I think we can do it in two days.

It's close and the wind won't destroy us
like fucking K2.

Come on. I know you want to.

I'll go alone then.

Andrzej will never let you.

That's why I fucking need you
to come with me!

Don't tell him yet.

Andrzej. Andrzej!

We are at Camp One,
I repeat. We're at Camp One,

but there's no trace of the tent here.
The tent's missing.

The supplies are gone.
We'll go look for them. Over.

Krzysiek, don't look for them.
Okay? Don't look for them.

There was a blizzard at the base as well.
We need to rebuild it.

Come back down,
and help us rebuild the base. Okay?

Over and out.

So you wanna do Broad Peak?

I didn't expect that from you.

- What?
- Shit, Alek. I said not yet.

- This wasn't the time to ask.
- Yeah, it never is.

What did he say?

The same thing.

That we're fucking insane.

Sixty-eighth day
of the K2 expedition.

Wielicki and Cichy have set up
a temporary camp above Black Pyramid.

It's the highest altitude
we have reached so far.

Our team remains determined,
despite the weather,

and our expiring permit.

We will make at least
one more attempt to attack the summit.

We remain positive. End of message.

You know we won't reach K2.

Let us try Broad Peak.

You lose nothing.

I could lose you guys.

I know when to stop.

Right now, sure. Up there it's different.

Andrzej, you know me.

What's your plan?

Three camps in light Alpine style.
The route Krzysiek took in the summer.

We didn't even make Camp Two.
The boys are losing it.

They'll understand.

The decision kills the entire expedition.

But we didn't come here
to sit in our tents the whole time.

We came here to climb, didn't we?

We came here to reach K2.

The entire world is watching.
We have a chance to reach two summits.

The first winter ascents in Karakoram.
So what's the matter?

It'll be an individual success
for Berbeka and Lwow.

Not the team.

Why you two?
Why not Krzysiek? He went in the summer.

- Because it's my idea.
- Fucking great.

If you're really thinking K2 will let up,
then you guys are all crazy.

What the fuck are you talking about?
This is why we're here.

Forget K2. The weather's too bad...

I hate this moment.

It seems like everything is okay...

But I can see
that you're already on the mountain.

Have you even considered
what I was going through here?

What the kids went through?

Niusiek...

What "Niusiek"?

Why are you doing this?

We're going for K2.

We have a better chance together.

This won't fail because of us.

It won't help though.

Krzysiek, I just want to try.

I'm not trying to compete.

Good luck, then.

We'll see you two in four days.

If everything goes well.

There's no other option.

Mr. Ambassador,
Maciej Berbeka and Alek Lwow

just left the base of K2
headed for Broad Peak.

They've decided to attack the summit
in light Alpine style.

We just need that official permit
to push the summit.

We're hoping you approve it soon.

Over and out.

The weather is good.
At night, it won't fall below -40.

Morning will be stable.
Stable. Minus thirty, but no wind.

If it holds,
you should reach 7,000 meters tomorrow.

If it holds, tomorrow, 7,000 meters.

Over and out.

Maciej!

Maciej!

Maciej!

Maciej?

Maciej?

You good?

I understand, Maciej.
I understand.

Unfortunately, the weather
is not on your side.

If the blizzard doesn't let up,
you turn back, you hear?

I repeat. If it doesn't let up, turn back.
The risk is too great.

Tomorrow, we'll see how it is.

Tomorrow morning.

Over and out.

I'm worried, Maciej.

Of course I understand it
and I accept it, but...

I don't know what to say.

SUMMIT PUSH

We're coming for you.

Fucking hell!

We're fucked.

It won't work.

We can go around.

How do we go around?

We're close.
We shouldn't turn back now.

It'll be okay. We'll go through here.

Too late.

The shitshow is starting.

We won't make it.

We can make it.

Damn it.

We should go back. I think that's smarter.

Then talk to Zawada.

I'll climb a bit more.

I think we should turn back now.

It's getting really dangerous. Over.

And what about Maciej?

What does Maciej think?

Let me talk to him. Over.

Maciej wants to go further.

Over.

Well, okay. How are you feeling?
You have to evaluate the situation.

It will take you four to five hours
to reach the summit.

You only have one radio. Don't split up.

Work together.

2:00 P.M.

4:00 P.M.

5:00 P.M.

Maciej, Maciej.
This is base. Over.

DEATH ZONE

Maciej, this is base. Please answer.

5.30 P.M.

Maciej, respond, please. Over.

Just come in, for God's sake.

5:55 P.M.

Hello, base.

Come in, base.

There he is. This is base here. Over.

Finally! Maciej.
Tell us where you are. Over.

Andrzej.

There's nothing above me.

I'm at the summit.

I'm at the summit.

That's wonderful, Maciej.
Wonderful.

Now, you have to be careful
as you descend.

Please be careful descending.
Find the tent.

A great success for Polish mountaineering.

The winter expedition
of the Polish Alpinism Association

has claimed a spectacular achievement.

Maciej Berbeka from Zakopane
became the first person in history

to reach Broad Peak in winter.

This makes him the first person in history

to break the 8,000-meter boundary
in winter in Karakoram,

the most dangerous
and difficult to reach mountain range.

...Berbeka, a member of

the international winter expedition of K2...

8.30 P.M.

11:00 P.M.

Maciej, Maciej.
Maciej, where are you? Over.

I dug out a hole under the col.

I can't see where to go next.

Maciej. Maciej.
Maybe it will clear up soon.

Stay where you are.
Hopefully tomorrow will be better.

You'll find the way. Just hold on for now.

8:30 A.M.

Maciej, this is base.
Come in.

Maciej, respond.

I can't see anything.

Andrzej, I'm still here.
I'm still here in the same spot.

Maciej, you've spent
16 hours at 8,000 meters.

You need to descend. Over.

But where do I go? I'm lost up here.

Maciej, you've been there too long!

You won't survive another night.
You have to get down. You must.

1:00 P.M.

Maciej, Maciej.
I hope you're descending.

You've been up there too long!

My legs are frozen. I can't feel them.

Maciej, Maciej. Both Mireks
and Krzysiek Wielicki are going up.

I repeat, they are going up.

Going where?

Up to Broad Peak.
To Broad Peak, to meet you guys.

If weather permits,
they'll be there in two days.

They will be there in two days.

Maciej, you have to get down.
You won't survive another night.

It's a miracle you're alive now.

Maciej, you have to go down.

You have to descend. You won't survive
another night at 8,000 meters.

Maciej...

Maciej, can you hear me?

Come here. Come here.

I'm scared.

Don't do this to me.

9:00 P.M.

11:00 P.M.

Alek!

Alek!

Alek!

Alek!

Alek!

Maciej!

Maciej!

How is he?

He's not too bad, especially considering
how long he was at 8,000.

His toes are frostbitten.

You have to descend in the morning.
You understand?

Please hurry.

Andrzej, he can barely walk.

Tomorrow Krzysiek and both Mireks
should reach you.

But you both need to descend.

You've been up there too long.

9:30 A.M.

I can't fucking carry you!

Maciej!

2:00 P.M.

We're here. It's all over.

Good job, Krzysiek!
Get them down as fast as you can!

They are hypothermic and dehydrated.
It's a miracle they're still alive.

2:00 P.M.
NEXT DAY

Maciej!

They're flying you
out to the hospital, okay?

It's all arranged.

You don't have to worry.

- Thank you.
- Of course.

You're gonna be okay!

We are awarding you this medal

in recognition
of your great courage and spirits.

Dad!

Legos!

Sir. May I ask you a few questions?

It'll just take a minute.

Just a few words.

Come on, boys.

Krzyś, come on.

How did you decide to ascend
this particular mountain?

Well, we...

What?

Nothing.

What is it?

Tell me!

I love you, Niusiek.

This is Maciej.

Hi, Maciej. This is Andrzej.

Hi.

How are you feeling? Do you need anything?

No, no. No, uh, everything's fine.

Oh, that's great. Glad to hear it.

Actually, I wanted to talk because...

Listen, I don't know
how to tell you this, but...

You planning something?

Yeah. But I didn't know
how you were feeling.

We're getting ready for Nanga Parbat
in a couple of months,

but I didn't know if you would want to go
after the last trip.

Nah, come on. Sure.

Sounds great.

This is the base under K2.

And that's what most
of our days look like.

Basically, it's a shitshow.

All right, guys, all right.

That's what we call bad weather
in the mountains.

I heard you slept in a hole for two days.

I did.

Mm.

But there's nothing to be said about that.

One moment.

This one's broken.

- There you go.
- Thank you.

Thanks.

Melt the chocolate,
and add milk and butter.

- Mix the flour with baking powder...
- Hold on, hold on. Wait.

- Mix the flour.
- Yes.

How much flour?

I don't know.

You didn't write it down?

No.

- Hello.
- Are your parents home?

Dad's here.

Thank you.

Here.

Tastes better.

TATRA CLIMBER

ALEKSANDER LWOW
TO WIN MEANS... TO SURVIVE

Maciej?

Who knew?

- Come inside.
- Who knew about it?

- Everyone.
- Everyone?

I thought you were gonna die.

When you called from the summit,
I didn't doubt it.

You didn't?

- Krzysiek said it was too early, but...
- Where is Krzysiek now? Where?

Where is Alek?

Where are those cowards?

Three whole months?

Three fucking months, Andrzej?

And nobody thought they should tell me
I didn't reach the damn summit?

What was all this for then, huh?

What for?

Was it success?
Or money for another expedition?

Was it for money? Was it?

- If I told you, you would have kept going.
- Andrzej?

But you gave me no choice!

Ewa would be planning
your funeral right now!

Don't you dare drag my family into this!

Maciej...

Maciej!

Sensational news
from the mountaineering world.

Maciej Berbeka, who led
the first winter ascent on Broad Peak,

did not actually reach the summit.

According to an article
by Aleksander Lwow,

who climbed with him,

Berbeka reached Rocky Summit,
the so-called foresummit.

He was just 17 meters away,

which means the summit
remains unconquered.

In fact, Maciej Berbeka reached

the so-called foresummit of Broad Peak
– Rocky Summit.

It's located just 17 meters
below the main summit,

but separated by an hour-long climb
through an open ridge.

That hour could've cost Maciej his life.

Perhaps it's for the best
that he didn't realize his mistake.

Krzyś, go back to sleep.

So do you want vanilla or chocolate?

Janusz said that
you didn't reach the summit.

But that's not true, right?

How was it?

Hm?

I promise I will never go on
another national expedition with them.

I promise.

JUNE 2012

Good one, Krzyś.

One, two...

Be careful.

Maciej. It's Krzyś.

I don't know
when you're leaving for the Andes,

but I wanted to catch you before you left.

Please call me back.

Is everything okay?

I'm fine.

I'm just tired.

Then let's go to bed.

Now I just have to pick
my favorites,

but the most important thing is

how I'm going to arrange them
for the exhibition.

Hey.

Hi.

You never returned any of my calls.

And, since I was nearby,
I stopped in.

Ah.

For your collection.

Hey.

We've got it all.

Equipment, a good squad. They're young.

I need someone experienced.

Besides...

you deserve this climb.

What I deserve is some peace and quiet.

You deserve to conquer
that goddamn mountain.

It's late. Come on.

Maciej...

We need to finish what we started.

Krzysiek, I don't want to.

I'm sure Ewa prepared a room for you.

Nah, I'll get out of your hair.

Give her my best.

See ya.

What did he want then?

Broad Peak.

I told him no.

For the beauty and good
that you grace us with.

For all the work
that comes straight from your heart.

And for the natural artistry
that is evident in your work.

My dear, thank you for your art.

I'm going.

I knew you would.

You have to promise me something.

You won't ascend the summit
if you're not feeling up for it.

Okay, Maciej?

Niusiek...

Just promise.

Promise me.

Maciej.

Okay.

The first man to ascend Manaslu
and Cho Oyu in the winter.

He set a new path on Annapurna,

and was the first Pole to reach
Mount Everest from the Chinese side.

The first to breach
the magical 8,000-meter barrier

in Karakoram in the winter.

Actually on Broad Peak, in fact.

Leader of winter expeditions,
and an active high-altitude guide.

Every year he leads his customers
to the peaks of the Seven Summits,

which allows him
to stay in legendary form.

Let me introduce you. Artur.

Nice to meet you.

- Tomek.
- Hello.

- Adam.
- It's an honor.

Maciej.

I could go on forever,

since he's a huge part
of Polish alpinism history,

but, instead, allow me
to just introduce Maciej Berbeka!

This is our team.

We have the experience,

and these young men
have strength and power.

And though we've never climbed together,

I know they're great guys.

They're already doing amazing things.

I was on that first expedition
with Maciej.

We both remember it well, maybe too well.

We both know that mountain, and it's, uh...

Before you head out
for the mountain, do you feel nervous

or excited to settle the score?

I was never sure I wanted to go back
to Broad Peak in the winter again.

but Krzysiek Wielicki
used an argument that proved crucial.

What he said was that we both
need to finish what we had once started.

Camp Two, come in. Over.

Base, come in.

Base, come in. This is Tomek.

Do you have any weather updates? Over.

At 7,500 meters, 35 knots.

Tomorrow morning it will be 15, later 5.

Around noon, it should be completely calm.

That's what I'm seeing tomorrow.

And, uh...
What about Tuesday at 8,000? Over.

Uh...

Five, 15, and 20 knots.

There's also Wednesday,

which is looking like
15, 15, and then one.

One knot. Over.

Thanks for the heads-up.

We'll definitely look out
for that one knot. Over.

You were already there.

You were very close to the summit
25 years ago.

Well, I was sure I'd made it.

So what happened?

In '88, I reached Rocky Summit,
which is the foresummit of Broad Peak.

Basically that means
you need to hike down again to go up.

It's about 17 meters
from the actual summit.

Noon, March 4th.

The boys are headed for Camp Three.

The plan for today, get the supplies,
deliver them up to Camp Four.

They've got to have two tents.

So what really happened
up there? Why didn't you go further?

I would have,

but my colleagues didn't tell me
that I was only at the foresummit.

So I came back down off the mountain,
and I returned home.

But then, about three months
after the fact,

I found out
I didn't reach the actual summit.

Gentlemen...

How are you doing? Come in. Over.

We can hear you. Over!

I'm happy to tell you
that at 10:15 the wind will stop.

Should be okay until noon.

Thanks, Krzysiek.
We are glad to hear that.

...because here...

Artur, hold the antenna
up straight.

I couldn't understand
anything you said. Over.

Will do.

Is it hard
to go back to Broad Peak?

What do you think?

There's nothing pleasant
about slowly dying.

When you feel like it's over.

Your family is
thousands of kilometers away

and you have no way
of saying goodbye to anyone.

Every part of your body is done,

and there's nothing
that you can do about it.

It's a hopeless feeling.

That's how I remember it.
That's Broad Peak.

And then, later,
I finally return home to everyone.

And it turns out it was all for nothing.

It was pointless.

You know what I mean? Pointless.

I'm looking at the forecast.
In the morning the weather should be fine.

That's a great forecast.
Hope it turns out to be true. Over.

7,400 MASL
SUMMIT PUSH

We head out at 5:00.

That's fine with us.

Five seems a little late.
Don't you think so?

We should do 3:00.

No, 5:00.

How are you feeling?

We're feeling good, Krzyś. We can do it.

All right, but you guys
have to tell Krzysiek.

Who decided to leave at 5:00?

Well, everyone.

I think that might be
three hours too late. Over.

You think we should go earlier, then?

Five is okay.

At dawn we should be at the crevasse.

Right now, it's -40.

I don't want to get frostbite again. Over.

Which team is going up?

All four of us.

All of us are going.

Why not in twos?

Krzysiek, we'll have a better chance
if we all go.

The weather will be fine,
and we all feel okay.

And each one of us has worked hard
to get here.

Okay, but you've got to hustle
because there's a long way to the top.

Don't lose daylight. Over and out.

Ah.

It's taking us too long.

It's not looking good, Maciej.
We gotta hurry up.

7,700 MASL 9:00 A.M.

You took too long
to get to the crevasse.

You're two hours behind schedule.

I repeat. Two hours.

Don't fuck around too long. Be careful.

During the day,
the weather will get better,

and there will be plenty of light.

Make sure to use it,

because it's the last
window of opportunity that we've got.

There won't be another chance.

Over and out.

7,900 MASL 12:00 P.M.
THE COL

DEATH ZONE

Maciej.
Since this morning, Maciej...

I repeat. Since this morning,
you're now three hours behind schedule.

Three hours behind schedule. Over.

We know.

The weather is good.

It's clear up here.

And we feel...

We feel all right.

That's great. Does that mean
you want to keep going?

Yes, we're going.

It's still about
four to five hours to get to the summit.

You'll have to hurry.

I repeat. You have to hurry.

The weather is okay now,

but, once you lose the daylight,
it will get much colder.

Descending will be very difficult
in those conditions.

Be careful out there. Over and out.

It's hard to go about your life
when people consider you a fraud.

For 25 years,
I tried to get away from that.

To regain my honor.

To this day,
I don't know why my colleagues

didn't tell me the truth back then.

But it was a long time ago.

I'd rather focus on what's in front of me.

So what's your plan?

Are you hoping to conquer it?
Successfully, this time?

Time will tell, I mean,

I'm going there to climb a bit,
help the young ones,

but if the conditions appear to be decent...

Then I'll go for it.

One more time.

Hello, Maciej.
Hello, Adam, Artur, Tomek.

Hello, guys. Come in. Over.

8,030 MASL 4:00 P.M.
ROCKY SUMMIT

Hello, Maciej. Come in, guys.
Come in, for God's sake.

Over.

Hello, Maciej. Come in, Maciej.
Come in, guys. What's with your radios?

I'm going gray here. Over.

Hi, Krzysiek, it's Maciej.

We're at the Rocky Summit.

Finally you respond. Finally.

Rocky Summit, well done.

You're at 8K but you still got
a long way to go to the summit.

It's too late.
I think it's definitely too late.

If you go further,
you'll be coming down in the dark.

It'll be very hard.

I think you should consider
going back down.

Maciej, consider it. Over.

I did not come here just to go back down.

Over and out.

Everyone, decide for yourself.

Hello, Maciej. Come in, guys. Over.

Maciej, Artur, Tomek, Adam. Over.

Hello, Maciej. Come in, guys.
Adam, Artur, Tomek. Over.

On March 5, 2013,

Polish mountaineers were the first
to ascend Broad Peak in winter.

Adam Bielecki
reached the summit at 5:20 p.m.

Artur Malek seized the summit
half an hour later.

Tomasz Kowalski
reached the summit at 6:00 p.m.

Hello, Krzysiek?

Hello, Krzysiek?

Maciej, Maciej, Maciej.
I'm listening!

Where the hell are you guys? Over!

I made it.

The summit.

Maciej Berbeka ascended Broad Peak

exactly 25 years to the day
after his first attempt

when barely 17 meters
separated him from the summit.

Maciej, come in to base.

ARCHIVAL MATERIAL

Maciej, Tomek, come in, for God's sake.
Where are you? Over.

Maciej, Tomek, where are you? Goddammit.

Come in, over.

Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski
died on their descent.