WINE and WAR (2020) - full transcript
In 2013, Mark Johnston, Mark Ryan and Michael Karam, inspired by Michael's award-winning book Wines of Lebanon, set themselves a goal to change perceptions of the region and explore an enigmatic and misunderstood country by producing a feature length documentary that celebrated Lebanese entrepreneurship in times of conflict and instability through the lens of wine. With testimonies from those who fought to make wine in the 1975-90 civil war, the 2006 summer war, and those who continue to produce in the shadow of regional instability, this unique documentary frames their astonishing stories of bravery, determination, and survival and highlights how wine can be a unifier and a metaphor for life, hospitality, civilization, and a force for good in a region defined by turmoil and animosity, but which has a relationship with the vine that stretches back, almost 7,000 years. The Lebanese were the first wine merchants and they continue to travel the world. There are 4.5 million people in Lebanon, but a further 10 million of Lebanese descent are scattered across the five continents and they too can help forge a renewed sense of identity and pride among the diaspora. Because in a time of global angst, Lebanon is suffering more than most, not only dealing with the Covid pandemic, but also fighting corruption, environmental crises and sectarian politics not to mention navigating choppy economic waters. WINE and WAR is a timely reminder that uncertainty is a way of life for many, but that out of uncertainty can come remarkable resilience, and positivity.
you back to the beginning,
- to the beginning of the-
- Ah!
You should remember one thing.
I want you to
speak slowly, clearly
in order to allow my
brain to get the real sense
of what you are
intending to get from me.
- Okay.
- Got it?
- Got it.
- Okay, good.
Serge, when you
remember your childhood.
Yeah, I told you, you
have to speak loudly
because I don't hear
but I want you to speak
slowly and loudly on purpose.
I am pushing you, I'm
squeezing you, I'm cornering you
you know why?
Because by cornering you, I
can abuse your brain my way.
Okay? Okay.
What do you think shaped you
in your formative years?
You know,
your character is
shaped every day
by any thing which
happens to you.
When I was seven,
I asked my parents, "Why"
did you give me birth
without my permission?
"You did not ask me to come."
They answered, "Serge, we
did not know it would be you."
So this is how I discovered
that I was forced to live
against my will and this has
been going on for 75 years.
Wine does not care
about war or no war,
because yeast makes the wine
even if people are fighting.
What is older, the
wine or humanity?
Because the fruit was there,
the juice was there.
If the juice should
leak on the ground,
it will ferment and
it will become wine.
So wine made
itself before humans.
When humanity started
understanding wine
instead of being nomads, where
they would take their sheep
and they would have their wheat
and they would
move to another place,
wine forced them to settle.
This is why we
started civilization.
For us, today, this
is a major discovery
because this is the
first built wine press
and the first built treading
floor that we know of.
It's a winery, it's a winery.
I'm impressed not by
that they were making wine
but by the quality of the vat.
- Exactly, exactly.
- Unbelievable, unbelievable.
What is also
interesting is that
in the two shipwrecks
that they found
off the shore of Ashkelon.
- Yes, yes, yes.
- Some years ago.
They found them, they
were filled with amphorae
of the 7th century BC.
They contained wine
and the amphorae were
Phoenician amphorae
and they presumed that
they were taking wine
from here to Egypt
and they were shipwrecked.
This just means
that they have reached
a certain technique
and a certain...
a sophisticated wine
making technique.
Here we have
for the first time
- a huge platform.
- A big vat.
- This is work.
- This is work.
This is industry.
Yeah, so this is quite...
- Impressive.
- Yeah.
This is a
magnificent piece of art
and this is clear evidence
that they had the know how.
The product that is
made from this vat
is extremely important for us.
What they had as resources
and what we have now
they still had many
things in advance.
We still need to uncover,
to investigate archeological
sites in Lebanon
because there has
been hardly any regular
scientific archeological
work since
the beginning of the
Lebanese War in 1975.
Now during the war
because of its location,
in front of the sea this
was a very nice area.
When we came we
saw that there have been
several trenches,
man made trenches
by militias, by people who
were trying to loot the site
and all they hit were
earth and pebbles.
So they abandoned
the site and this is how
the site was preserved
for us to come
and start regular excavations.
Ever since I started, my first
excavation was in Lebanon...
we have been under
the gun, as it were.
Our site was located
south of Sidon
where there was a
major Palestinian camp,
so we were about
five kilometers away.
You might think,
"Oh, well, you know
this is going to
be beautiful", right?
The sun's coming up, it was
a beautiful Mediterranean day
every day, though, we would
have an attack by F-15 jets,
from the Israeli Air Force
base, called Ramat David.
Well, the place we had lived
in, in Israel was Ramat David.
That was-It's right next
to the main air force base
and every night when we
lived there the previous year,
we would hear the jets
taking off to hit Lebanon,
and the Palestinian
camp and then now
here I was on the
other side of the border
watching dogfights up in the sky
and planes even coming down and
you could see the bombs dropping
down on the Palestinian camp
and just huge explosions
and then they would shoot out
over the Mediterranean
and be gone.
And then you hear
the ambulances.
Well, what was so sad, really
was that the ambulances
would get into the camp
maybe 20 minutes, 25
minutes after the attack
and they were pulling out
the bodies, which you'd see
in the front page of the
Beirut paper the next day.
This was never reported
in the West, by the way
and then as the ambulances
were pulling the injured out,
the F-15s would
make a second strike.
So they were coming out
just when the ambulances
were taking the injured
away, and that always
really affected
me, but the most...
awful experience I suppose
I had was my wife was up
in Turkey the whole time,
living in a Turkish village
and she came down on
the day of the largest attack
that I'd ever seen.
Well, she didn't know
what to do, so she ran out
onto the ancient pier
that runs out to the castle
there in Sidon, and she
was alongside Palestinians
with machine guns as the
planes came shooting over
at about 20 feet above her head,
so she could look eye to
eye into the eyes of an Israeli
pilot as they came in,
and then the Palestinian
had his machine gun out,
trying to knock down this plane
that's going pretty fast.
Despite these attacks I
described in the south,
it's an absolutely amazing site.
So it was a sad thing
when the civil war came.
There's a lot left to
learn about Lebanon
as I have already mentioned
because of the civil war
and the problems associated
with working in Lebanon
as an archeologist,
relatively few excavations
have been carried out
in the last 20 or 30 years.
I had great affection
for Lebanon because
they're entrepreneurial,
certainly,
competitive, but also...
a wonderful place to be because
the people are
extremely friendly
and, they have such good food.
All the surrounding
countries, we have
multiple excavations
going on, but nothing quite
as extraordinary, I don't
think as the Lebanese coast.
There has always been war, right
in the Middle East,
especially in Lebanon
which is at the
crossroads of so much.
This is just a continuation of
what's been going on forever
and they've been
producing wine there forever.
When humans first
came out of Africa
about a million years ago
the first place they
would have seen
the grape is Lebanon.
They would have been fascinated
by vines growing all the way up
the tall cedar of Lebanon trees.
They would see the grapes
climbing their
way right to the sky
you know, almost to heaven
and they must've been
absolutely amazed at this fruit
but this grape happens
to be ideal for making wine
because once you squash
the grape and get the juice out
you've got the perfect
medium for the yeast
that are living on the
outside of this high sugar fruit
to get active and make wine.
So it wouldn't have been
hard for the early humans,
our ancestors
coming out of Africa
to figure out how to make wine.
And I think this was
a very large motivator
to humans having
year round settlements
and once you've got
year round settlements,
then you're gonna
get increasingly more
complex societies developing.
So I see that this fermented
beverage is really contributing
greatly to the rise of
permanent cultures
in settlements that then lead on
into more advanced civilization.
Around 3000 BC,
when we get our first
literary records
of the Canaanites,
and when we really
see that the Canaanites,
who are based in
the Levant in Lebanon,
are very active in wine making.
The Canaanite merchants
could be real entrepreneurs.
I mean, they could
come in and show off
their wares and
entice the local rulers
with this new beverage
and they're the
first wine merchants.
By the time we get
down to the Egyptians
of around 3100 BC, we have
wine being imported into Egypt
from the Canaanite territories.
And the Canaanites were
experts in wine making already,
so it was quite logical
to import the wine at first
and so the king, one
of the first kings of Egypt
Scorpion I, he brought in
700 very large amphorae
or jars of wine and in
fact, the amphora itself
was invented by the Canaanites
and it's often called
the Canaanite jar.
Wine is a poetic
product, you could say
it has all the different
flavors and aromas
that you associate with memories
and it opens up your
mind to other possibilities
it's a mind-altering
substance, so...
A lot of what we are as humans
is trying to take our minds
and wrap it around
all the mysteries
that exist in the universe.
The Canaanite wine
was "drunk day and night"
the "fine wine of
the Canaanites",
and especially the gods
were very involved in this,
so they often overindulged a bit
and so we have textual evidence
that sometimes they went
home, rather sick, you could say
and we have very vivid
accounts of their drunkenness.
Drunkenness is a
way to make contact
with the gods and
with the ancestors.
Coming back to a place
that has gone through war
was a real experience.
Every weekend we
would go to Beirut,
have parties on the rooftops
and the people
were very friendly.
So I think of the Lebanese
today as very much
like the Lebanese of antiquity.
It carries on, I think, a lot
of the traditions
that have been there
for many millennia.
If Lebanon wasn't in
a constant state of war
we might be able to get
a lot more information
about these early periods.
The site of Baalbek was
set up by Antoninus Pius,
who came from Carthage.
Even though he's a Roman
emperor, he had his roots
in the Phoenician
colony of Carthage
so he probably would have
worshipped Bacchus too.
The temple to Bacchus is
probably one of
the best preserved
classical buildings
anywhere and it has beautiful
grapevine motifs and some poppy
or opium type motifs.
Bacchus was the god of wine.
During the survey, in the
western part of Baalbek
we find a lot of wine
presses but we didn't find
a lot of material
for exportation
which means wine
was used by locals.
Because we didn't find the
amphora jars for exportation.
But in fact, we know that
according to some mythology,
according to some legends
that it was very special,
this party in Baalbek.
Wine is part of the ceremony.
The first commercial
wine came from Lebanon.
This is where the
Romans put their god,
where they get the best results
and that's what would happen
they put Bacchus in the Bekaa,
it's not me who is saying it
it's the great Roman
Empire, who did make wine all
over the world, the Old World,
and they chose to put Bacchus
in the temple of Baalbek.
The great civilizations
that say, this is the region
where you can plant grapes,
this is the Bordeaux
of the Old World.
The Romans liked to take their
gods into the furthest corner
of their empire and
the Bekaa Valley
was an agricultural area
in which the cult of Bacchus
that revolved around
the seasonal cycle
of planting and
harvesting and resurrection
was very powerful.
People in this period,
the Pagan Period,
they believed more about
the power of wine and gods.
When we heard the first
time about Daesh and ISIS
and the problem
and what they did,
the aggressivity behind
something like Palmyra.
I'm afraid because they
can do the same here.
I think we are lucky.
The first thing you will
understand in the Bacchus temple
that it was a temple
for weed, wine and sex
and that was happening
2,000 years ago.
The beautiful terroir of Baalbek
is at 1,000 meters altitude,
where we decided to plant
Grenache Noir and Grenache Blanc
just in front of cannabis.
I think it's still too far for
Lebanon to take that decision
in legalizing the weed because
I was called by this region
to advise them in
order to plant grapes
instead of cannabis.
People decided to try some
crops other than the cannabis
because cannabis was always
a risky crop in that area.
If I wasn't from
the Bekaa Valley
and if I wasn't
with these genes,
if I call them genes of the war,
I would never accept to do
such a project in that area
in Baalbek, which is known
for its dangerous reputation.
And with a bit of luck,
because we are lucky people
although we are in the
middle of a war zone,
we are lucky people to
have this beautiful nature
that gives us so much
potential in growing vines,
producing wines
and telling the story.
Lebanon has been
a country of refuge
than a country of population.
Lebanon's population has
been constituted by refugees
since the inception of Lebanon.
We are a combination of
population from the whole world,
from the whole religions
I usually tell, okay, in the
States you are a melting pot
but you are the
last melting pot.
In Lebanon, we are the
first melting pot of humanity,
and this is why in Lebanon,
even with the situation we have
we are accepting the millions
of Syrians coming to Lebanon.
So this is why to say,
Lebanon is not a country
it's the country of
the whole world.
Dad would say,
"Look at the ruby color
isn't that beautiful?"
The situation in Lebanon
today is very hard,
with a...
next war situation,
or call it whatever,
but I don't look at it that way.
My only conviction
is to my family.
My father was a general
in the Lebanese Army
and I looked up at him
like my hero, my hero.
At the age of 11, he
put a gun in my hands
and he said, "It's gonna..."
send you back a little but you
try to stay as firm as you can
and you shoot in the middle.
It's like if you are
shooting somebody
"between the eyes, you got it?"
I said, "Yes, Dad,
I'm gonna do my best."
I enjoyed it actually.
It's a terrible thing to
tell a child of 11 to do that
but he meant it.
To have his daughters be strong
and up to any situation
life would bring you along.
He prepared us, actually
it has always been part
of my life, wine and war.
We are four sisters and I
was the one who liked best
to be next to him and
to enjoy making wine.
And that was a dream
of his which came true.
I loved the idea of
him starting a winery
and he didn't need
to be encouraged
he was so passionate
about everything he did
well, sad enough, he left us...
and since then I took it upon
myself to continue his heritage.
I'm very proud of
having a dad like this
and for me to
carry on his legacy
wasn't an easy thing.
I don't know whether to say
that a woman in a man's world
is an easy task, but
it was worth trying.
Today, if you were to name one
winery in the region
or in the near region
that is really having to fight
to get its wines made
it has got to be Domaine
de Bargylus in Syria.
The owners had
a wonderful vision
about making a Syrian wine
and even getting praise from
the likes of Jancis Robinson
who says Domaine
de Bargylus is arguably
the best red wine in the
Eastern Mediterranean today
and this wine is being
made in a civil war!
How does that work?
We've inherited a
region of instability.
Back in 2003, when we
decided to plant the first vines
in Syria and almost at
the same time in Lebanon.
We loved the idea that
being from Syria and Lebanon
we could actually do
wine in both countries
because let's not
forget that doing wine
and planting a vineyard
is also a statement
of implanting yourself
on a very long term.
When you plant a vine,
I think you're saying
I'm here to stay.
When the war started in
Syria, there was a moment
of questioning whether
we could be able to continue
producing there, and
what we did later on is adapt...
because the most important
thing for us was to continue
producing high quality
wine and also keeping
the people who worked
for us in the winery
because around
them everybody left.
One day we get a call
from our engineer in Syria
and he tells us that
people are fighting
just 500 meters
away from the winery.
That moment was really
putting in question everything.
We didn't know if we've
lost the whole installations
the winery, the vineyard
and also the people
who worked for us, we
had about three or four hours
where we didn't
have any contact.
Everything could have happened.
It's been at least five years
that we haven't been
going to Syria, to our winery.
We are producing
wine without going there
and it's critical to
taste the grapes
before we determine
the dates of the harvest
and what we do is we
ship by taxi the little grapes
and we taste them here
in this conference room.
And this involves a lot of
time and a lot of challenges
and we're doing wine
when all odds are against us.
So all is managed over the
phone and through contacts
and communications and
this is even more difficult.
It's almost impossible.
When we turn off
the lights, hoping
that the next day wouldn't
be worse than this one
it's relatively a good thing.
It's not normal, that
we suffer in Lebanon
of whatever happens in the area.
Why is it Lebanon?
Because we are small,
because we are more open,
because we have the sympathy
of all countries to interfere
in our internal affairs
I don't know, the
mosaic of communities
certainly is a factor.
We have a lot of
Christian communities.
Shia, Sunni, Druze
Alawites, et cetera.
Our strength is this
multitude of communities
because when it
works, it works so well.
Sometimes it doesn't work and
you know how the medias are
they always emphasize
on trouble, on problems
and they don't talk of
the beautiful aspect of life.
I would assure you that I
don't know one foreigner
regardless of his nationality,
who didn't come to Lebanon
and who didn't fall in
love with our country.
A country with such
a high civilization,
with a lot of culture,
with a lot of history,
with a wonderful climate and
our duty as wine producers,
as business people, as
people who believe in Lebanon
is to change this idea
people have about Lebanon.
We are sure one
day peace will prevail
and Lebanon will
regain its importance
in the Middle East, not
to say in the whole world.
We are an area that
has been invaded over
2,500 years by all
types of invaders
and that changed the culture.
When today we
talk about our wine,
people's first impression
is they're surprised.
"Don't you have war?"
We say, "Yeah, we had war."
But one has to be
realistic, you know?
You'd better be
careful of what you do
or where you go
or follow news...
But anything can happen,
we are living on a volcano.
We live in a part of the
world that has been invaded
and conquered and
fought over continuously
from the Crusaders
to the Mamluks
to the Ottoman
Empire, to the French,
to the Lebanese civil
war, to Israeli conflicts,
post civil war and now
we've even got ISIS
knocking on our front door.
We live in a bad neighborhood,
we live in a neighborhood
with Israel to the south,
we've now got a war-torn Syria
to our east and even
within our own society
there's a lot of conflict,
there's a lot of tension,
there's a lot of friction.
And staying with this, I think
one of the most
remarkable stories
in the history of the
Lebanese wine industry
has got to be the
story of Serge Hochar
who is arguably one of
the famous winemakers
of his generation.
Not only did he put Lebanon's
flag on the world wine map,
he made a remarkable wine.
One of the most remarkable
wines you're ever likely
to taste, be it the
red or the white.
And he had an intrinsic
understanding between wine
and humanity and in that
respect, he was a guru
I mean, Serge was a
war hero in the respect that
he was picking his grapes
under the guns of every militia
in the world: there were the
Syrians, there were the Israelis
there were the Palestinians,
There was the Baader Meinhof
there was the Japanese Red Army.
When people opened a
bottle in London or in New York
or in Tokyo, they
were uncorking conflict
there was a whiff of war
in every bottle of wine
that they opened, Serge was
a magician on so many fronts,
and Lebanon had a giant.
If you are a "fear person"
if you have fear, you
are a dead person.
My father had no clue about wine
and he started the winery.
My father wanted me to be
in the winery, I did not want.
I wanted to be a
monk in the mountains.
Yeah.
I wanted to be on my own.
Do nothing.
My father forced me and
because I was the eldest
in the family, I had to
accept the responsibility.
And when I came to the winery,
for the harvest, the
first day the truck arrived
I tasted the juice, it
was good, I did taste it.
Two days later, it
started to be sparkling,
it started to have
bubbles into it,
so I was wondering what it was.
I understood that this
was the miracle of the wine,
the miracle of life.
This is why I became
a believer in life.
Okay?
Being a believer, doesn't
mean you are religious.
When I came back from making
wine in Palestine and Israel,
I was convinced that
wine was a good substance.
We should learn about
it, love it and drink it.
If it is abused in
order to get drunk,
then it can be used for war.
But if wine is used as an
essence of nature to be happy,
it becomes a product
for peace and not war.
Since the 1960's, the
Lebanese church wanted
the Trappist monks to
become established in Lebanon.
We never responded
to their request
until the civil war started.
When I came to Lebanon,
I introduced
myself to the Patriarch Khreich
who asked me a question...
"We have been asking
you to come for a long time"
why have you just come
now in the midst of war?
You won't get out of here alive.
"Why couldn't you have
come when there was peace?"
There was something
more than shells
and destruction
that brought me here.
God asked me to
sow peace in Lebanon.
So I took action, and that's
when I decided to be a
symbol of unity in the country.
Day by day, Israeli war planes
have bombed the
Palestinian quarter of Beirut.
Visions of fear and
destruction from the heavens
a justice that seems
less than divine.
In the beginning, none of us
thought that it
would last so long.
Of course, we were
optimistic, saying that fine
it's part of the
conflicts that are part
of the political
life of this country
but no one thought that
it would come to a point
where we would be
unable to reach even
where the winery
and fields were.
The communities
amongst themselves
did not used to hate each other,
this happened out of the blue.
When the tribes that
live in the Bekaa Valley
started taking active
part in the conflict
it became, unfortunately,
a kind of ethnic
religious war and very soon
there was no more anything
which could be called a country.
It was in the mountains of Sofar
and those militias
surrounded my car.
"What are you doing here", I
said, "It's the end of the month
and I have to pay the
wages of the people."
They said, "Are you going
to think that we will believe"
that you can expose
yourself to such danger
and go to pay the
people and their wages?
"Then, obviously you are a spy."
Of course, the
sentence was death.
They entrusted me to
the care of one of them.
I had to go with him because
he had his gun in my back.
By that time we arrived
at the place where
he decided to shoot me.
I was very calm,
I don't know why.
But I was expecting the
to shoot me,
and it seems, well, my
time had not yet come.
Someone came out of the
tent, which they had there
and it happened to
be the man from whom
we had rented our house in Sofar
and he knew that I
was a friend of a certain
Kamal Jumblatt,
who was a very important
man of their community
and he said, "What
are you doing?"
This man is very important,
he's the very close friend of
Kamal Jumblatt,
"and you will
have to pay for it."
He said, "Okay,
okay, let him go."
They kept the car
but they let me go.
Once a war starts,
you must understand
that it can last for 20 years
so you have to plan, today
all the future of the winery
keeping in mind that
it will take 20 years.
This is how I understood
that Lebanon is a country
which is always
in a situation of unrest,
peace, unrest, peace
but once you have
unrest, it can last for long.
My philosophy was to look
for markets outside Lebanon
because in 1975, our sales
in Lebanon dropped by 90%.
The characteristic in the
genes of Lebanese people
has been to fight for survival
elsewhere from their country.
And I started tasting the world
and this is when I
came back to Lebanon
and I understood that Lebanon
was a little bit different
from the rest of the world.
So I decided to continue
myself making wine
until the day war will finish
and I will see what I'll do.
The horizon was
very cloudy in Lebanon.
It wasn't easy,
it was very costly.
We sat, we discussed it
together and said, "Look..."
"What are the options?"
No risk-taking
or why not play the game?
As both ourselves were of the
same character, "Why not,
let's do it." We took the risk
to do it and that's
why the story started.
In 1975, Serge and
his brother went for broke
and like the Lebanese have
done for thousands of years
they packed their bags and
they took their wares abroad,
and they went to London,
and were carrying their
wines around in suitcases
going from door to
door, trying to sell these
crazy wines from a
crazy country that no one
really knew about and
that was the gamble.
It was an appalling war
and Serge continued making wine
as if nothing had happened
and I wrote about it.
I was actually credited
with discovering the wine.
A chap came
to our stand and said
"You really must come right away
there are some wines which
I think you must, must taste."
And I'd never tasted
any wine like it before
it was so distinctive,
and it was not Bordeaux,
it was not Burgundy
it was not trying
to be anything.
The paradoxical aspect
is the contrast between
a wine of this quality, the
man and his philosophy
coming from the country
which was, unfortunately
described, as a
third world country.
Unknown.
The press coverage
wasn't so favorable
and so on, you know,
"What are you doing here
coming from Lebanon?"
Refugees, between quotes.
Refugees? We are not refugees.
We're adventurers!
We're not refugees.
In the 70's, 80's, Lebanon
was being talked about
because of war,
not anything else.
And at the time my
father traveling the world
would be an ambassador
because he would talk about
the history of the
country, about the culture
of the country, about
the wines of the country
and so it was showing
an image of Lebanon
which was something
completely different than
what people were used to
seeing on the news and on TV.
Phoenicians were traders,
they were not conquerors
they were conquering by
trade and not conquering
by weapons and arms.
We are, today,
showing our products
by touring the world,
proposing them
like Phoenicians
used to showcase them
around the Mediterranean
5,000 years ago.
One day, I was in Beirut
and the Syrians were shelling
heavily Achrafieh
so in my building, the
people went to the shelter
they called me and I said, "No,
I will not go to the shelter."
I'll stay in my room."
I went to my cellar, I
discovered the bottle of 1972.
I had a very big glass
of Baccarat, which takes
one liter and a half,
so I took my bottle of '72
decanted all of
it in this glass.
The glass was half full
and I took it to my
room, sat on my bed
and each time there was
a shell, I would take a sip.
I did not want to go out.
So this is how I discovered
that once you taste
you use one thing
you use your brain.
The ability of
your brain to taste
depends on the
conditions in which you are.
If you have shells
coming on your head
you taste but you
are affected by shells.
So this, in one way, made
that the wine was different
in the situation in which I was.
So I understood that your
interpretation of the wine
depends on your identity,
on your soul, on your body.
This is how you learn
to taste life slowly.
The last drop made
me have a tear.
At night time, my
friend called me,
"Serge, we need a
partner for our bridge play.
So, okay, could you come down?"
I told them, "Okay,
I'll come down."
So I went out of
my room and I look
all the windows of the
house were shattered.
All the windows, the only
room which was not touched
was the room where I
was spending my day.
And a neighbor of
ours, a friend of mine,
was in her room, there
was a bomb on their house.
One shrapnel went through
the ceiling and came
down directly into her heart.
One shrapnel had come into
her heart and she passed away.
So basically, so this
is how I spent this day
and the wine I was
tasting this day was a 1972.
Just to tell you something,
for me, war or no war
I don't care
because grape, yeast
does not care about war.
The thing that I always
think of about Serge
is that line of his, about how
a human being encountering
a wine that is living, which is
what he always spoke about.
As you know, that...
that in order for
something to be great,
it had to have life in it, it
didn't have to necessarily
taste good or taste bad, it
was beyond that, it was about
was this made with love,
was this made with life?
Does it still contain life,
does it inspire you to life?
All of this was about
this sense of living-ness
as opposed to being shut
down and checked out.
When you come into the presence
of somebody who has rejected
that formula and said,
"You're not the sum of your"
obligations, you're
the sum of your senses,
you're the sum of
your experiences,
you're the sum of your feelings,
you're the sum of your
interactions with other people.
Let me show you how.
"Through taste and through
the art of the senses."
Everybody told me it's
not time to start a winery.
It's not the time
to plant vineyards.
And they used to
accompany it with a sign
on their head doing...
And I never looked
after what they said.
During the war in '82, I
asked for an oenologist
and he was a French one.
He came without
thinking about it.
He was an adventurer.
In 1982, I arrived in Lebanon.
When I arrived he
told me to cut my hair
and I said, "No way..."
if you don't like
it I can leave."
But, as soon as I saw
the vines I couldn't leave.
I thought it was
impossible that grapes
like these were
growing in Lebanon.
It reminded me of the Bible
where Lebanese wine is mentioned
and when I saw the vines
I saw the direct connection.
The grapes were beautiful!
I used to blast Bob Marley
to the max while fermenting.
To this day, people
still call me "Bob".
"I will be as
the dew to Israel.
I shall grow as the lily and
throw out my roots to Lebanon.
Those who dwell under
my shadow shall revive
and grow as the vine.
"The scent shall be as
the wine of Lebanon."
In the Old Testament,
Hosea wanted to convey
Lebanon's greatness
through wine.
The country was
considered to be one of
the first wine
producers in the world.
So Lebanon's
message is to propagate
wine throughout the world.
A little bit of wine
makes the heart happy.
- Pour me some more.
- No, you've had too much.
Don't start with me.
I told the workers
at the winery to leave
but I didn't leave until the
first shells started falling.
I said, "Jesus, this
place is filled with spirits."
If one shell should hit, the
whole place will explode."
So I ran outside to hide.
There was a sky
battle with the Syrians.
And one or two
planes fell in Kefraya.
In the vineyards.
He was running and then the
passport got out of his pocket
and he was without any papers.
So I was hiding in a pipe
I was there the whole day.
When the shelling stopped,
the soldiers came to the winery.
They arrived with their tanks.
They went into the house.
They deteriorated
what they could,
then they installed their
camp here just where we are.
They knew that he was there.
They asked for him
and everybody said
"We don't know where he is."
So they thought, of course,
that he would not be far.
One of the tanks was
going back and forth.
A soldier got out
and put his flashlight
into the hole
where I was hiding,
and I said to myself, "This
is the end, I'm going to die."
I put my hands up
and surrendered.
They thought
he was a terrorist
because he had a beard.
And they took him to Tel Aviv.
I was transferred
to 6 or 7 jails.
They tied my hands and
feet and put me in a truck
and next to me
was a Syrian pilot
and part of his face was gone.
When they saw his condition
they gave him morphine
and he couldn't feel
the pain anymore.
I was smoking a cigarette
with my hands tied up
and the pilot was asking me
with his eyes for a cigarette.
I pretended that
I didn't see him.
I couldn't give him a smoke.
What would he do with it?
Finally, an officer asked
me for a phone number,
to contact someone in
France to say I was in jail.
So they tell my mom.
They told her, "Your
son is in prison in Israel."
Then they hung up.
They hung up on her.
When she heard I was
in prison she thought
that I had become a
thug and a troublemaker.
So she didn't tell
anyone about it.
There were 70 of us in prison.
I tried speaking with another
Frenchman and the others
would always shut me up because
someone was always praying.
They would all pray
constantly, one after another.
I said, "Why are you praying?"
Are you afraid of being killed?
When you had guns
none of you were praying
"but now you are afraid
for your lives, right?"
I started shouting at them
because no one
would let me talk.
We were two against seventy.
I told them, "Everyone
prays together, and that's it."
After that we could speak
whenever we wanted.
The one who jailed
us told me to "eat shit"
and now you want me to shut up?
No way! I'm not
going to take it!
So I became the
leader of the cell.
Then the French
consulate intervened
and they got him
out, back to France
and he stayed
there for just a week
and then he came back here.
I told him not to do it but
he wanted to come back.
The army stayed three
years and we used to look after
what they did every day.
If it was not pipes
which were broken
it was the vines
which were erased.
If you stay until tomorrow
I can tell you stories.
What's happening?
Ha!
Did you say something?
Pass me the 2011.
After that jail experience,
I took down my walls.
Which wine you want to taste?
All of them
When I came back to Lebanon,
there was a snowball effect
and I found myself getting
more and more sucked into
this funny little
world that was called
the Lebanese wine industry.
- I want to shock you.
- Okay, you should.
I love to shock you.
You know how old I am?
- 27!
- Okay
I'm getting younger
this is why I'm
becoming dangerous.
Good, okay, what
you want to taste now?
Let's go for the cuvée.
Let me give you an advice.
You take your glass and you
put one drop on your tongue
and you leave it on
your tongue, one drop.
And it goes into all your mouth
and nothing comes
to your stomach.
So you have the
pleasure without the effect
of drinking.
Serge, you're
too kind, thank you.
Oh.
Because this
would smell different.
It already has
smelled different.
Yeah.
You see, when you
swirl in the glass, you look
to the tears, look how
much time it takes to go down.
It stays, it stays,
it's impressive.
You know, Michael, I
have reached an age
where love is a
question of experience.
You can start loving
and then it dies.
The most important, if love
you can increase it and
make it better, higher
more approachable,
more attractive,
so this is how I behave
even with my wine.
In 1984, after
the Israeli invasion
the road from Beirut to
Damascus was closed.
The vineyards were
in the buffer zone.
You know, it was...
You have the Israeli
armies in the south
and the Syrian army in the north
and I think the vineyards
were in between.
In 1984, there was
such a war situation
not because the grapes
could not make wine
because I could not
bring them to the winery.
While I was in
Beirut, our bailiff
got in touch with
me at my office
five in the evening,
the streets were empty.
Empty because the offices were
not far from the Green Line.
He said, "Look, I'm ready."
I can send you two or three
trucks." "Are you joking?"
He said, "No."
I called Serge in
Paris on holiday
and said, "Serge, look,
I don't want you to come"
but we can start in two
days." He said, "What?"
I said, "Yes, but don't come."
He called me back, said "Okay",
I'll be there in a couple
of days." "For God's sake!"
He flew from Paris to
Cyprus, took a speed boat
and he arrived two days
later at six in the morning.
Instead of harvesting in
early September, as usual
we did harvest on
the 20th of October,
which made it an impossible
product and to bring the
grapes from the vineyards,
which are in Bekaa
Valley to Ghazir,
which is north of Beirut...
it took us five days.
From the vineyard we
had to go south Bekaa,
up to the north to Baalbek
and there we took the road
to the Cedars and from
the Cedars to Tripoli
and from Tripoli to Jounieh
and there to the winery.
Life in 1984 wasn't easy.
All the roads were
closed and bombed,
Whenever we would find
an open road we would take it.
On the way back from the
Cedars road, I hit a checkpoint.
I bribed them with cigarettes to
make the crossing
happen as usual.
But this time the
soldier was annoying
me so I threw the
cigarettes at him
and then he attacked me!
So I tackled him
and took his weapon.
His commander
saw us and ran over
I gave him his weapon and
he asked, "What happened?"
I exaggerated a
little bit and told
him the soldier had offended me,
so the commander
started beating him.
I can't believe I
wasn't beaten too.
The commander was a good guy.
He invited me for a tea!
After that he said,
"I got your back,
God be with you."
So we found another route,
we sent the grapes from Bekaa
to the south of
Lebanon, go to Sidon.
In Sidon, we took a ferry boat
and which brought
the truck to Jounieh
and from there, from Jounieh,
it went up to the winery.
But there was a storm,
so to be able to sail
it took three days more to sail
so this is what made
that the grape arrived
to the winery five days after.
So... the grapes arrived to the
winery already fermenting.
All of a sudden, Serge told me
"You got the truck from
the south, but what?"
I said, "Yes."
It wasn't planned.
Purely coincidence,
nature, God, war.
War.
This is why I say making wine
is the biggest gamble you
could think of, okay, good?
So when I'm asked, "Serge,
what do you do in life?"
I do two things.
I'm a cook and I'm a gambler.
I cook for tomorrow
not for today
but by making the
wine for the future
and bottling it, I'm a gambler.
So I'm a cook, gambler cook.
Any decision you
make on the wine,
affects the wine.
Now, although the
wine makes itself
by raising it up,
by giving it affection
by talking with it, it can
evolve, we can make it evolve.
And this is what I say:
Wine is a permanent miracle,
and you have to believe.
When I came back to Lebanon,
I was shocked by a
social phenomenon
that emerged during the war.
The war was about ethnicity.
Your identity
could get you killed.
I told my sister that I wanted
to go to our village in Kobayet.
"No way!" she said
"You have to pass by Muslim
checkpoints.
They will kill you!"
But that didn't change my mind.
Every time there
was a checkpoint
I would get out of
the car on purpose
so they would see I was a monk.
I arrived at the
village of Hermel
and still no one had killed me.
No one had laid
their hands on me.
Not even an insult.
I saw kids playing
and I asked if they could take
me to the Sheikh.
"Follow us!" they said.
All the children were
walking in front of me
and along the way
people joined the crowd.
We walked in the narrow streets
until we arrived to
the Sheikh's house.
The Skeikh was surprised
to see all the villagers
in front of his door
with me in the middle.
He asked, "How can
I help you, Father?"
I told him, "I am
here to defy you."
I came all the way from Beirut
and still no one has killed me."
"So I thought why not meet you,
the big Sheikh,
and test my fate."
"Why would I kill you?
On the contrary, you
are most welcome!"
I stood up and went towards him.
I kissed him...
on both cheeks
and hugged him
and I said, "Love will prevail."
A toast to love and humanity.
One of the most remarkable
stories in postwar Lebanon
is Chateau Bellevue in Bhamdoun.
Here we have a story of a
man who grew up in Bhamdoun,
who loved the village,
who had an intense,
emotional tie with his community
who left, he took the
traditional Lebanese route,
he left to study abroad
like thousands of Lebanese
do every year and
when he was studying
in the middle of the civil
war, there was a massacre
in his village, 500
people were murdered.
I mean, that would
be trauma anywhere
and what did he do?
He said, "I'm gonna heal the
wounds of war through wine,"
and he planted his first
vineyard in his father's hotel
that was destroyed during
the war and now he's bought
vineyards all over the town
as a symbol of resurrection.
When you plant vines,
you plant it for
your grandchild.
If you really want to uproot
people, cut their vines
and that's exactly
what's happening
around this part of the world.
500 people
perished in this place,
In this place and in many
other places, so it happened
in Christian villages, it
happened in
Muslim, Druze villages,
it happened everywhere.
To me, this was it, I never
wanted to come back...
at the time, you know.
Despite the fact that
because we felt useless
we felt powerless, we felt like
it's so much bigger than you
how can you make a change?
When I returned the first
person I wanted to help
was myself, I had hatred in me.
I had hatred against
human beings.
There were no trees, my
vineyard, my own vineyard
that I had planted
with my grandfather
was uprooted, the
olive groves were cut.
I don't have to seek
justice by myself.
Justice, we seek by planting
and beautifying things.
We continue doing that.
It's good will
that's guiding us.
The idea was, how can
we encourage people
to reattach themselves
to their own land?
The vineyards was the vehicle.
It was a vehicle that people
could relate to at some level.
One of the issues that
we had encouraging people
to come back and
live in Bhamdoun,
because everyone had
obviously made lives elsewhere -
schools, apartments,
jobs, et cetera, in Beirut
most frequently, but to
get them to come back
and really invest themselves
here, we had to somehow
encourage their
children to be interested.
It couldn't be
internet, it couldn't be
things that they're
used to doing, going out
and having places
to go with their friends.
So a few years ago, Naji
created a group of harvesters,
who were young people in
high school and in college
they didn't necessarily
know each other because
they were all from
different parts of Beirut
but their parents had
known each other.
They earned a
little bit of money
they found a commonality,
they started to care
about what happened
to their grandfathers' land.
So that's the generation
that needed to be excited.
And now they know
every corner of the valley
and they ask us,
when are we picking?
That's what we want
to create here,
is people who
believe in the future.
A future based on
total quality environment,
where we are in
communion with nature.
All the elements are here.
People have to open
their eyes and see them.
Breaking News
Dani Chamoun, his
wife and two young sons
were killed today
in their apartment
by a commando team
of five armed men.
An act that has sparked outrage
I left Lebanon to
discover the world
but Lebanon
never really left me.
On the TV, I saw the picture
of Dani, Ingrid and the boys
I grew up very
close to the family.
I knew that something
terrible had happened.
Dani fought for this land.
The same day I called
up my mom and I said,
"I'm coming back to..."
"home."
When I returned
the first matter I had to
negotiate was the land we had.
I stayed on the
rooftop of our house.
Occupiers were in it
living with their cattle.
They were nomads, Bedouins
and they realized at some
point that I meant business.
I had an AK-47 that
didn't leave me all the time
but luckily I didn't
have to use it.
I wasn't aggressive at
all but I had determination
so eventually they
decided to pack and leave
because one of us had to leave.
Once the squatters left, I
had all this land on hand
and I said, I need to
make a life out of it.
There is no stronger wine than
a wine made in a region where
there is war, because it's
the essence of rebirth and life.
Wine is not just
a mere packaging
of a bottle and a price,
it's a soul.
And the soul of life
from a region of war
is nowhere stronger
than when you are able
to make wine from this region.
It means, by essence,
this is life I'm offering you
although there is war.
Sami and Ramzi Ghosn
were children of the civil war.
They were at the forefront
of what I would call the...
the second generation of
Lebanese wine producers,
those producers that
established their wineries
after the civil war ended.
Ramzi's moment came in 2006.
When there was a brutal, a very
short but brutal war between
the Shia Lebanese political
party, Hezbollah and Israel.
And Ramzi who
had already been uprooted
from his winery once,
as a child, said,
"No, I'm not moving."
And he stayed for a
month with his vines.
Under the bombs, the shrapnel
was fizzing in the vineyard.
If ever there was a moment in
which the Lebanese winemaker,
the Lebanese
entrepreneur was defined
by resilience,
by stubbornness,
by bravery,
it was the fact that Ramzi
Ghosn lived with his vines
amid the bombing
for one month in 2006
he said, "I'm not
fucking leaving."
People who look at the
grim aspect of war only
will never get out of it.
People should look at
the positive aspect of war
and this is entrenched
deeply in the Lebanese culture.
We have to make the
best of every single day,
we have to be thankful
and to make every
day an opportunity
to learn something
and to advance
and to become stronger.
My wine-making practices
definitely changed
because of war.
There is no doubt that
my wine became for people
who want to enjoy every
single day of their lives.
I want to enjoy my
wine now, not in 10 years.
And...
2006 reaffirmed
that the Lebanese
and our culture is about
daily "dolce vita".
Summer 2006,
everything was perfect.
Ripening of the grapes
was going very well
and then a few skirmishes
happened in the south
and one day, my brother
and I were seated here
watching the news,
just to try to understand
what was going on and
all the sudden a bridge
not far from here was
hit by the Israeli Air Force.
And then it was like a movie.
As if you're not
watching a movie
but you are a
subject in the movie.
From this moment, we
started to take measures
to cope with a
longer war in a way.
I didn't imagine ourselves
being here, passive, watching.
The worst experience was the
bombing of the candy factory,
not far from here because
we lost the daughter of one
of our helpers at
the restaurant here.
Everything was destroyed.
Everything with trucks
was destroyed, drones
were destroying everything,
that seems like a truck.
They destroyed all the bridges,
so they think now the
trucks are taking the old roads
and they should be destroyed.
There was no pilot, there
was no human in the plane.
It was drone bombarding,
so nobody had the courage
to go and make the harvest
because it was very risky.
We went to Serge's
office and he told me,
"What are you going to do?"
I told him, "We
are going to pick."
He told me, "How can you do it?"
I told him, "You have your
war, let me have my war."
He said "Okay" and he
was on telephone, on air
with Radio Grape in California.
Welcome to Grape
Radio, where an enthusiasm
for wine gets personal.
And today joining us long
distance, we have Serge Hochar
thanks for joining us, Serge.
Thank you, Lebanon,
you should add Lebanon.
Lebanon is well
known right now because
it's been in all the
headlines, how close are you
to where all the action was?
So there was a
convoy coming to Bekaa
and when it arrived to
a village called Kefraya.
I don't know what happened,
they were hit by a plane.
I don't know why. There
was a convoy of 1,500 cars
and it had been prepared
with the United Nations
and it was supposed
to be a safe convoy
and finally, the hit
happened in Kefraya
which is one of the villages
where we have our vineyards.
Tarek called to tell me that
we have to pick up the grapes.
I was worried about the bombs
but the grapes were on the line.
We have to fight and
pick up the grapes.
We went to the Bekaa
Valley, we have no pickers.
This was a war zone and
everything was destroyed
bridges, roads, trucks,
so nobody was here.
Nobody thought there will
be any agricultural movement
or harvest of any kind.
Nobody thought
that would happen.
We arrived to the
village looking for help.
It was an emergency
so I rang the bell.
When villagers started gathering
around we asked for their help.
"Yes, yes, we will
do it, we will do it."
People were astonished
because there was no work to do,
there was nothing to
do and people come.
40, 50 person, ladies,
men, it was astonishing.
There is unknown
soldier behind it.
When the trucks were
loaded, we had a big flag.
We put the big flag on the
cases, so the drone can see it.
And we said, "Let's go."
Everything was set
up, I was alone in my car
he was alone in his
truck and we drove.
So he was in front, I
was backing him behind.
So if anything
happened, I would help
I would interfere, I
would do anything.
We could see the
drones above our heads.
We didn't know if we
were going to die or not.
We can see the trucks on fire
because they are
being hit by missiles,
and suddenly, boom!
I saw the smoke
coming from the truck.
I said we were hit by a
drone, so I saw the driver
opening the door and
throw himself into the ditch.
I did like him, I
opened the door
and threw myself into the ditch.
But when we just
look, we saw water
water coming from the car
we knew it was the radiator
because it was smoking,
and the water was running
down and the vapor was going up
we knew it was the radiator.
As if all your body was waiting
for something and this
feeling explode on the radiator.
Understand, you were
tense, we were tense.
Thank God, it was the radiator!
We were not wine makers,
we were wine crusaders.
Sometimes I look
at events in Lebanon
that would just
throw Western society.
The fact we don't have
electricity 24 hours a day
would send people
running into the streets
like zombies in
most Western capitals
but here we just get on with it.
We take a cable from
here, we put it there
we plug into a different
generator and we make it work.
Sure, at the beginning
it must've been a pain
but after a while you adapt.
George Sara is another
young man who immediately
understands conflict
and will not be thrown
or be fazed by conflict.
He understands that if his
wine maker has to land in Syria
because the airport
in Beirut is shut
and he has to go to the Syrian
border to pick his winemaker up
to bring him back to start
the wine making process
and the harvest as
they had to do in 2006.
That... to a Lebanese
is just what you have to do.
James, at the
time, was in Paris
or was in Bordeaux,
I think, I don't know,
he was in France on
vacation and I receive a call.
And I was in Syria
at the time because
at one point I had to leave.
At the time Syria was safe
and Lebanon was not.
So we were there and he's like
"I have to get back
because I have to harvest,"
and I'm like, "James,
but it's not possible"
because there are no roads."
He's like, "I need you to
book me a ticket to Damascus"
I need to take a car."
I'm like, "But James,
the roads are destroyed."
He's like, "I don't
care, I have to go back"
I have to harvest, otherwise,
we'll miss the year."
The war is on and we
don't know what may happen.
We were waiting, day by day
we kept informed of the events
and all I was
seeing was the date
of the harvest
was getting closer.
Usually I go and
check the grapes
to see how they are doing
and I couldn't do that!
So I reserve a ticket for James
he comes to Damascus
we get in the car, we
drive up to the borders.
This is actually
a very lucky story
a stroke of luck because
the day he arrived
was the day they
stopped the war.
As soon as I heard
that the war was over
the next morning,
which was August 15th.
I tried but
couldn't get a flight
because everything was closed.
So on the 16th, I got
a flight to Damascus
in Damascus, the
road was destroyed.
He picked me up at the airport
and dropped me off at
the border in the "free zone,"
which was destroyed
between the two countries.
He left me there
I walked through
the "free zone" with
my baggage in hand
and picked up a
taxi on the other side,
it took me to the winery,
arriving the
evening of the 16th.
Two days later, we
began harvesting
I was very relieved!
I remember it very
well, there's a huge crater
in the middle of the road and
he's there with his Samsonite
black bag carrying
it in his hand
and I stop at the
crater, I'm like,
"I'm sorry I can't go further."
Had the war lasted longer
we would have lost a great deal
of our Chardonnay and Sauvignon
mostly the whites
and some Merlot
so there, it was a miracle!
The war stopped at
the perfect moment.
So this is why war
for me was a lucky thing.
War forced me to
get out of Lebanon.
War was the reason
why, instead of Lebanon
we became a global wine
all over the world, okay?
This is a good reason, so
please, thank you for war
because of war, we were
delayed in the harvesting
like in 1984, I had to harvest
due to political reasons
and not due to weather reasons.
This is why today I became,
I became myself very
addicted to old wines because
the wine, sometimes, is not
ready, which happened to me
two years ago, we had
the visit, of your friend here
whose name is Paul Grieco.
I long for
something like that,
it was never part of
my personal experience.
How cool would
it be to go there?
And then it became one
of, I can't believe I'm actually
going to Lebanon, like, I must
be out of my goddamn mind
and when I flew
into the airport.
I wasn't tension filled
when I left the
airport, it was like
oh, so buildings bombed out
shrapnel marks everywhere,
tanks on the street.
It's not part of that
usual wine country trip
scenery that you get when
you go to Mosel river valley
or Bordeaux or Tuscany,
whatever and ultimately
when I look at a bottle of wine,
it's just grape juice with
alcohol, that is what it is,
and it is everything
surrounding the bottle of wine
religion, history, philosophy
culture, civilization,
movement of mankind
blah, blah, blah...
that pulls me into this.
And Paul Grieco told me,
"Serge,
I want to taste the '84."
I told him, "Paul,
it's not wine."
I said "Look..."
It's probably evolving,
it's probably become a port
"but it's not wine,"
and then I opened the bottle,
he tasted it and said, "Serge."
I will list this wine if
you ship it to the US."
It was like, holy shit, what
roller coaster
ride is this thing on?
And it wasn't-most wine
follows a beautiful arc.
At least that's what I've
read and been taught
and all of those things.
Serge's wine never
followed a goddamn arc
from beginning to middle to end.
It began, and then it went
down, and then it came back up
and it went down, it was like
all over the goddamn place
which made every
interaction with it
a thrill ride, again tension, at
times, you never knew which you
were going to get
and then you hear
"Well, we're not
bottling it, we never
wanted to, we never will."
It's like, excuse me?
Serge was an ultimate
character to me because
of the relentless
stubborn passion
with which he lived his life.
You know, there are people who
talk a lot of smack about living
a passionate life and showing
up and being in the moment
and experiencing every
instant and wasting nothing
and following their curiosity
and then there are people
who do it and the difference
between people who speak
about it and people
who actually do it is vast
and when you find somebody
who has actually devoted
their entire life to
passionate, awake, conscious
delighted, sensory
living, they're magnetic.
I hope you do not like it.
I hope you do not like it.
He was very, very engaging
he genuinely, I
think, liked people
and wanted them
to engage with him
and loved very, very
distinctive conversations,
which could rapidly veer off.
He didn't really want
to talk about the certain
sort of things that most wine
makers want to talk about
fermentation
temperatures, different oaks
that sort of thing, he
was much more interested
in wine as social
glue, if you like
what wine could do for humanity.
I've been to Lebanon
twice, once in 1970
when it was absolutely
the jewel of the Middle East
everyone was having a
great time, very relaxed
and then again, in 1980, to
visit Chateau Musar with Serge.
I was traveling with
one other wine writer,
we had to go through,
I think, three different
really quite difficult
army checkpoints.
Serge couldn't come
and meet us at the airport.
You were very, very aware of
the fact that you were entering
not a current war
zone but one that could
return to being a war
zone at any moment.
What made you take a
trip to Lebanon in a civil war?
That's a very,
very good question.
I've always loved adventure and
loved travel and been curious
and always been on
the side of the underdog
as far as wine is concerned
and Lebanese wine
was much, much
less well known then
and I felt it needed
a bit of attention.
What I took away from
my experience with Serge
was less about the
wines in particular
and more about a way of being.
What remains in me is this one
particular thing that he said
that was one of those
sort of clues of life changing
information that somebody
gives you at an important moment
and we were sitting on his
balcony, we were drinking this
1972 wine that he had made
right after he had taken over
the winery and he was
instructing me on how to...
he said, "We're gonna sit here
all afternoon and drink this."
We're gonna
start at three o'clock and
we're not gonna be
done until nine o'clock,
this one bottle of wine.
We're gonna let it sit and then
we're gonna have a little more
and then we're gonna
talk about it and then
we're gonna have a little
more and we're gonna
talk about it, we're gonna
watch the light change
we're gonna watch
the wine change
"and we're gonna have
this experience together."
And while he was talking, I
kept trying to kind of impress
him by telling him
what the wine tasted like
and he kept saying,
"It's too soon to judge it."
Now at this point,
we're three hours in
to one bottle of wine
and he just kept holding
me back and saying,
"I don't want your
conclusions on this"
let's just talk about
what it's making you feel
"what it's reminding you of."
and I kept trying to say,
"Well, it tastes like this"
and he said, "You don't
know yet what tastes like."
It hasn't grown yet,
we need to let the wine
"be the whole bottle."
and he had this wonderful
line where he said
"Just like people"
wine is something
that you cannot judge
until you've seen it through
every season of its being.
So don't rush to a judgment
on anybody or anything until
"you've seen it through every
season of its incarnation."
And I have never forgotten
that, I cannot tell you
how many times
when I'm in conflict
with somebody in a relationship
whether it's a friend or
a relative or a neighbor
I just think we're not done
with this bottle of wine yet.
Before you start
labeling this person
or sort of putting them in a
box or deciding something
about them, just wait.
You haven't seen them
through all their seasons yet
this is just a moment
in this person's life
and you're at a moment in
your own life and tomorrow
they're gonna be completely
different and so are you
so just hold back.
That was always his thing.
Wait, not so fast, right?
Not so fast and don't judge
it, don't declare anything
just watch the story unfold
and that to me is
spiritual mastery.
His wines appealed to
people but it was he who really
gave the wine character
and how he came to die
again, was very original.
Going for a walk on the beach
never to be seen again.
Memorable.
The '84 was an
accident at infancy
born, conceived in accident.
We didn't invent the '84.
It could have not come to
the winery and there's no story.
So you see wine is a miracle
this is why I believe in wine.
This is why I'm
giving you all the
story to give you a philosophy.
What is wine?
Wine is beyond
anything you could think of.
The biggest medicine on Earth,
the biggest miracle,
wine is the link
between God and humanity.
Wine is the link.
Should I continue
or should I stop?
No, I'll stop.
Done.
We imagine that wine
is another product.
Wine is not another
product, it's another life.
And because we cannot
master and control life
we cannot pretend
that we can control wine.
It's such an
unbelievable teacher
because wine makes
people communicate
and when you communicate,
you can make peace
you don't make war.