The Sanctity of Space (2021) - full transcript
Climbers/filmmakers Renan Ozturk and Freddie Wilkinson retrace the steps of pioneering mountaineer and aerial photographer Bradford Washburn. Inspired by Washburn's iconic images of Alaska, Ozturk and Wilkinson attempt the unprecedented traverse of the Mooses Tooth massif.
(footsteps rustling)
(gentle music)
(engine whirring)
(aircraft radio playing)
(music continues)
(aircraft radio continues intermittently)
(music intensifies)
(acoustic music)
- [Freddie] Most people
have never heard of
the Great Gorge in the Shadow of Denali,
but we keep coming back
here year after year.
(guitar music continues)
- [Renan] In the lower 48,
everything's really busy,
people moving around,
running off to their
jobs or responsibilities.
(guitar music continues)
You're in a world that's white and black,
sometimes golden rock.
And that's about it.
It's a pretty special place.
- [Zack] You know,
usually you go somewhere
and there's one, two truly
inspiring world-class peaks.
And this, this gorge is just full of them.
- [Freddie] It's always been
just kind of below the radar
because the climbs are
all really challenging.
It's not the place you come
to bag some easy ascents.
It's more of a place, you know,
for people who don't mind failing
and kind of like to
like to flog themselves.
Like the beat down.
- [Renan] 14 Hours in.
And yeah, there's a lot of rock up there.
(wind blowing)
- [Freddie] For young
climbers who are out there
seeking adventures,
and little swaths of mountain
to explore where nobody's been,
the big challenge is like finding
any blank spots that are left.
- [Renan] When you do
discover a big climb,
that's never been done,
it kind of feels like falling in love.
- [Freddie] Who knows why some
ideas spark into obsessions,
but this one took seven years,
and it all started with a
black and white photograph.
- [Renan] Anzel Adams wrote,
"you recognize the explorer
in Bradford Washburn at first sight.
There's something about the
eyes, the set of the chin,
not fierce, just determined.
He doesn't immediately remind
on of the vast bulk of Denali,
but he has in fact conquered
this extraordinary mountain
three times.
Not only Denali has
commanded his eye and heart,
the Grand Canyon, the great
peaks of the Western Yukon
and the Himalaya have all come under
his acquiring attention
and the well-directed eye of his camera."
- [David] Brad didn't
have many mentors himself.
He was too much his own
man, too self-taught.
But, photographically,
the great influence on him
was Vittorio Sella.
Sella's dictum was big
subjects need big photographs.
Brad would quote this all the time.
- [Bradford] Use big negatives
to take big subjects.
There's nothing like Mount
McKinley or any one of the great
peaks of Alaska when photographed
with a camera like this.
- [John] One of his favorite
cameras in the early days was a
Fairchild camera.
Something that was really
developed for flying over cities
and mapping them for wartime,
military reconnaissance.
And these large cameras
were very heavy,
very hard to use, all manual.
- [Bradford] The crank
would advance the film
and also set the shutter.
They would put it in and it would go.
And I want to show you
the size of the spool of
the film we've got in here.
Now this takes a 125 eight by ten
inch pictures in a single roll.
I will take this out and show you it
and look at that compared with
a little bit of an ordinary
roll that carries 36
35 millimeter pictures.
- [David] But what Brad
realized that almost no one
before had been able to figure
out how to solve was that
when you look at a big
mountain from the base, well,
it looks like four fifths of the way up is
actually only halfway up.
If you get up in an airplane
and see it from mid height,
you're getting a God's
eye view of the peak
as it really looks.
We all know Ansel Adams'
famous picture of Denali from
Wonder Lake,
but in Brad's pictures, you
see that same face from midair.
And it's so much more stunning.
(orchestral music)
- [Kurt] One year I got a
book of Bradford Washburn's,
and as I looked at it,
I had that sense of
beginning all over that
I didn't really know anything.
With Brad's pictures,
suddenly I saw mountains as
individuals that they stood
among other mountains.
Brad takes something
colossal and makes it human.
- [John] He's the greatest
aerial mountain photographer
of all time bar none.
- I can talk to the pilot and say,
get that left wing a little higher.
Now, pull back your stick.
And in that way, the pilot is framing
the picture of shoot me rather
than they trying to play
around with it, with the camera.
(orchestral music)
When I can I like to
get a little figure in
to give some idea of the
magnitude of the scene.
(orchestral music)
- [John] You look at this
colossal landscape and suddenly
you realize down in the corner,
there are two tiny little figures.
- [Mike] He knew that you
couldn't really appreciate this,
large landscape until you
had scale or to sort of give
people that just visceral feeling
of being in the middle of
this vast wilderness.
(orchestral music)
- [Brian] He knew the mountains
through a mountaineer's
eyes, a person who wasn't a
climber wouldn't photograph
in the same way he did.
- [John] But do you think
he devoted himself to the
printing, making beautiful prints?
No, he was happy with an eight
by 10 contact and he could
draw on it so he could show
climbers, Hey, try this.
This could be a first descent.
- [David] Before Brad got on
the scene in the early 1930s,
the Alaska range had had a
handful of monumental ascents
but all the other peaks were unclimbed.
He was like, my God,
let's go get them before
somebody else does.
- [Bradford] In a way, we were
lucky to be able to go into
that wilderness and be the
first people to see it.
Those were experiences that people
are very rare to have nowadays.
- [Freddie] I was going
up to Alaska every spring,
working as a guide on Denali.
And on days off in Talkeetna,
I'd go down to the ranger station
where they have this great
resource of old Brad Washburn photos.
Just looking for inspiration
for something new to climb.
And for some reason,
I kept on circling back
to the Moose's Tooth
in some of the shots of the range.
The Moose's Tooth is known
as this iconic complex peak
that's the centerpiece of the Great Gorge.
It's less of a singular mountain
and more like a jawbone of
many interconnected spiky teeth.
Most of the summits had been climbed,
but nobody had tried to traverse
all of them in a single go.
Spring of 2009,
I was traveling through Colorado
with a good friend of mine,
Micah Dash, and Micah and
I ended up in Boulder,
crashing on the couch of
his friends Renan and Zack.
They were heading to Alaska
that spring to the Ruth Gorge.
And one night after a few beers,
I let my secret slip
about the Tooth Traverse.
- It was certainly one of
the most creative lines
I'd ever seen.
It's a type of climb where you're
climbing on a skyline the entire time.
It's like you're always on a summit.
- [Freddie] Later that spring,
we all sort of went our separate ways.
I went home to New Hampshire.
Micah left on an expedition to China.
- [Micah] Probably
snowing at midnight or so.
It's about five now,
just kind of hanging out
in this pretty sick location.
- And Renan and Zack were
about to leave for Alaska.
When one day we got this phone call.
The bodies of our friends in
China and just been found.
- My life is completely
driven by the mountains.
And it's given me some
of the best experiences,
but also the worst and probably the time
where it hit hardest on that
negative side was when we got
the call that Johnny and Micah
had died in an avalanche in China.
Micah held my hand and brought me
into the climbing community.
And to lose someone that close to you
is something that affects you deeply.
But in the face of that,
Zack and I still decided
to go to the Ruth Gorge.
We left just a few days after
the memorial ceremony and went
into the mountains, not
knowing what we would do.
It's super counter intuitive
to have your best friends die
and then head straight into
the mountains and do something
equally as dangerous.
But after a certain amount of time
for us, it was just healthy to
go to a space that was quiet
and beautiful, where we could
process our own thoughts.
(acoustic music)
It took a few days,
but eventually the mountains
pulled us in and we were there
and we decided to go test ourselves.
We look over at the Tooth Traverse,
which our friend Freddie
had told us about.
And it became obvious that
that was the objective.
There was no planning.
Our head space was fucked.
We pretty much just tried it on a whim.
(stream trickling)
So the climb begins to express a gap.
Nice job, dude.
- [Zack] Pretty sweet, woo!
- [Renan] We were so unprepared
that we were extremely light
and the conditions were
really, really warm.
And that allowed us to make
it really far, really fast.
- [Zack] Anyone.
- [Renan] You're able to
make it past the big corner
sections of the eye tooth very quickly.
We made it all the way up
until that unknown unclimbed
section between the missing
tooth and the bear's tooth.
(groans)
We hit that section after we
basically sat and shivered
the night on a small ledge.
- [Zack] It was a long night for a place
that doesn't get dark.
- [Renan] When we got up in the morning,
it was clear that neither one
of us was really feeling it.
What's the deal with that guy?
- [Zack] This guy right here
is off of Micah's chess set.
We spent a lot of time playing and
that chess set went to
China and came back.
Came back to us.
If you look, it kinda looks like him.
The big nose, beady
eyes full of attention.
So just a nice little
piece to bring along.
Little piece of Micah right there
looking after us.
It's perfect, huh?
- [Renan] I'm really glad we have it.
- Yeah!
- [Renan] We had just come from
the funeral with hundreds of
people in the community weeping,
and you have to push it
on some of those climbs.
It's just how it goes.
But for the sake of the
community and for the sake of our
friends and family,
it just wasn't the time to take
another one of those risks.
As soon as we got down,
we knew we had to contact Freddie
because he's the one who saw
the line on Washburn's photo
in the first place.
(acoustic music)
- At the end of 2009,
I was trying to simultaneously
be a climbing guide,
a freelance writer and
good partner to Janet.
We were living in this small
12 by 12 cabin we built.
We chose to live that way
without a flushing toilet or a
shower or even a closet.
But we did have this incredible
freedom to pack up and leave
for a three month expedition if we wanted.
Then one day I got an
email from Renan and Zack
and lo and behold, they had gone and tried
the Tooth Traverse.
(gentle music)
I wasn't upset or wronged.
Nobody owns these mountains.
But I would have been
disappointed if they had just
walked up to the climb and done it.
At the same time,
it didn't surprise me at
all that they had failed.
The Tooth Traverse is a big,
big route to piece together.
And it has a lot of snow climbing
and steep ridge traverses.
And that sort of climbing
suits my strengths.
So the more we talked about
it, the more it was obvious,
we should just go up
there the next spring and
give it a try as a team of three.
At the time, I didn't know
much about Brad Washburn
beyond the photos,
but the more I got psyched on the climb,
the more I became fascinated by his story.
And it began right here in the
mountains of New Hampshire.
- [Bradford] For the
first 10 years of my life,
I had perfectly terrible hay fever.
And I've had a cousin who
took me up to the top of Mount
Washington, the summer of 1921,
which got me immediately
interested in climbing.
Because every time I went
on a trail up a mountain,
there was no hay fever.
- [Mike] He had a loving family
that encouraged exploration
of the mind and the
physical exploration.
They came from some wealth.
So they had a summer home
up in the white mountains.
You had a mother who
gave to her young son,
a small little pocket
camera where he learned,
self-learned had to take photographs.
When he was in the white mountains,
he was making hand drawn
maps of Squam Lake.
So you have this affinity for cartography.
Years later, Alaska
combined all of his talents
with opportunities.
- [Bradford] My first
trip to Alaska was 1930,
we organized during my freshman year,
we wanted to climb Mount Fair weather.
- [David] He had the
tremendous fear of failure.
The only two failures among
his expeditions were his first
three, the Fair weather and Crillon.
Every time after that,
he got to the summit.
And those early failures really fueled
his perfectionism and his high achieving.
- [David] The map that
they had of the region
was woefully under
representing the landscape.
It almost told you nothing.
(adventurous music)
When I read the early
accounts of exploration,
all I can think about is a
circus act without a net.
There was no one to come save them.
- [Brian] Many of these
early exhibitions used horses
for packing your gear in.
The bugs were just eating
the men and horses alive.
The rivers were cold,
swift, full of glacier silt.
- [David] From a geographic standpoint,
Alaska was this unknown territory.
But Brad's use of the airplane
transformed it because
to be up in the air,
it allowed him to take the photographs,
but he'd also used those
photos to create maps.
- [Brian] He was able
to correlate with the
aerial photography, very
accurately the position of
everything in the range,
including the Ruth Gorge.
And the range comes alive in his map.
- [John] When you think about exploration,
it all comes down to logistics.
With the advent of the aircraft,
suddenly you had a perspective
where you could see
over that next hill, you could
see over that next range.
You can map out large
distances because you could see
hundreds of miles.
Brad was always looking at
aviation technology and how he
could leverage that to get a
better view of the mountains
and whether it was for route
finding or whether it was for
beauty or whether it was for cartography.
And he took advantage of the
next aircraft, the next camera.
- [Interviewer] When was
the first time you felt like
a real connection with the
device known as a camera?
- It was actually probably
pretty late in my life that |
first felt a connection to a camera.
(laughing)
- [Interviewer] You
can't say it like that.
That sounds like you have a-. (laughing)
- Okay.
- [Interviewer] Sexual
relationship with the camera.
(both laughing)
- I had the first-.
- [Interviewer] Did you see that?
- The first time I fondled a
camera was probably in 2005.
(acoustic music)
I was doing a lot of artwork.
And then there came this point
where I realized you could
reach a lot more people
shooting with cameras.
Brad's photography taught me
that you could use these tiny
human elements to convey the scale
of these massive landscapes.
(yelling in distance)
On the first trip with Zack,
we had cameras, but
they were pretty basic.
- Just another day off at the tent.
Mmm.
(grunts)
(acoustic music continues)
- [Renan] I think I shot 87% of the thing
on fish eye adapt or.
I've since learned that it's
not the most professional way
to shoot, but at the time
it looked pretty cool to me,
kind of like old school skate videos.
By the time of the second
attempt of the Tooth Traverse,
all of our lives had evolved.
Both Freddie and myself
had gained sponsors
and we became professional climbers.
Freddie was a budding writer
who had just finished his first
book and his work were starting
to get picked up by bigger
and bigger publications.
You want to grab the pot off
the stove for one sec, Zack?
(indistinct)
Zack in my mind, he was a
much more talented climber
than we were,
but he just didn't have
that gene of self promotion.
And part of being a professional
climber in this day and age
is how you tell stories.
- [Zack] It seemed like overnight,
everybody I knew became
a professional climber.
It became harder for me to
find partners, ironically.
There was always like, you
know, there had to be a
photographer, there had to be, you know,
some kind of spin to going out climbing.
And I just wanted to keep going climbing.
- [Renan] What are you thinking, Zack?
- Why we've come here for
the second year in a row
to try this silly thing.
It's been cute about it.
Most days can get a little
obsessive like that,
looking at pictures way too long.
Maybe, maybe we'll get lucky.
(gentle orchestral music)
- [Freddie] The crux of the
traverse would be the South face
of the Moose's tooth.
It's right in the middle of the traverse.
And it's about a 2000 foot big wall.
And it had never been climbed before.
We decided to go and do a recon and try
that section as it's
own first ascent to see
if the full traverse was even possible.
- [Renan] People in town had said, oh,
that's a lost cause, it's been tried,
the rock just goes to shit
and it's hard to climb.
- [Zack] So is the anchor a sign that
someone's already tried this
way and failed? (laughs)
But whoever they were,
they weren't Zach Smith.
- [Renan] We saw some fixed gear where
people had bailed off of.
People had decided it
wasn't worth the risk.
Beautiful day in the gorge.
The rock is so bad.
You can just go like this with your hand
and a whole sheet will fall off.
(hammer banging against rock)
- [Freddie] There's
Zack and there's Renan.
This lead will probably
take a couple hours,
see how Renan does with it.
Rock fall, woohoo!
Gnarly.
(gentle music continues)
They're okay.
I'm just going to chill
here and hope for the best.
Looking a little ugly,
turn that thing around.
- [Renan] Tried to hold this pin,
and I took a chunk out of my finger.
- [Freddie] How bad is it?
- It's not bad, it's just
like that whole right side.
You see?
(orchestral music)
- [Renan] Take it to the top, Freddie.
- Gonna try.
Close.
(dramatic orchestral music)
- Is this it?
- This is it.
- We did it?
- We did it!
Good day, got a summit.
It's always a good day
when you get to the top.
- Not a bad first rope up.
(all laughing)
Sick!
(laughing continues)
She goes, she goes!
(laughing)
- [Renan] The big mystery is solved.
- [Zack] The mystery is solved!
- [Renan] When we get to
the top of the Moose's Tooth
and figured out that section,
we had the confidence that the
entire traverse was possible.
- Get the boys.
- Yeah!
- Climbed the South face
of the Moose's Tooth
a couple days ago.
And we're gonna go go try
the traverse tomorrow.
Weather's just been splitter,
so we're pretty psyched.
(orchestral music)
- [Renan] Getting the conditions right on
the Tooth Traverse is really, really hard.
If it's warm, like you
want for rock climbing,
the snow conditions could be out of whack
and totally shut you down.
But then if the snow conditions are right,
it's probably too cold for
the technical route climbing,
and any single storm
could wipe out the route
for the entire season.
Something's always going to be bad.
(dramatic music)
- [Freddie] Funky weather.
- [Renan] Lingering slowly.
- [Freddie] It is just fucking warm.
- [Zack] Warm temps.
It was splitter two hours ago.
- [Renan] Pressure's dropped as well.
We'll probably have a
restless night of sleep
and wake up at two and see
what the conditions are
and make a good decision.
(dramatic music)
- [David] The worst part of
any climb is the anticipation.
Every time you go up, you
know that you're committing to
a life or death situation.
So there's no way of avoiding that kind of
psychological stress.
We've all had close calls,
we've all lost friends.
So any climb is jinxed by
self-doubt and self-criticism.
Am I too soft, or is
the mountain too hard?
- [Jack] Often conditions aren't right.
Partner problems, or, you know,
the weather's bad or whatever.
You gotta live today to climb tomorrow.
- [Mike] Brad pushed, he took risks,
but these were always calculated risks.
When someone else said,
that's really stupid,
you shouldn't do that.
Brad would figure out a way to do it,
but it would be calculated.
- [David] In 1937, just
months before Amelia Earhart
tried to execute her
around the world flight,
Earhart and her husband, George Put man,
invited Brad down to
White Plains and asked
Brad's opinion about the logistics of it.
She needed a navigator.
- [Mike] Going to a place
unknown and doing something
that no one else had done before.
He very much wanted to do this.
- [Bradford] We chatted for a weekend.
I remember, and we were going map over map
and we got to How land Isle.
It's all by itself.
A mile and a quarter long
and a quarter of a mile wide,
just a sliver out in
the middle of nothing.
I said, Amelia, you've
absolutely got to have a noise
on a specific frequency
emanating from that island.
Could be duh, duh, duh,
dah, duh, duh, duh, dah,
duh, dit, dah, dah, dah, dah, dah, dit.
And you hone on that as
you're getting close to it.
- Putnam and Earhart looked
at each other in dismay and
Putnam, according to Brad said,
then the book won't come out in time
for the Christmas sales.
- [Bradford] And I said, I'm sorry,
I don't want any part of that.
I just don't think it makes sense.
(upbeat classical music)
- Amelia Earhart and her
navigator, Fred No on an,
have come to grief in their perilous
round the world flight.
The two intrepid fliers
missed the tiny dot that is
How land island in their 25
mile hop from New Guinea
and were forced down by lack of fuel.
(dramatic orchestral music)
- [David] The perfectionism
was a virtue and a fault.
Every story he ever told he was
in the right and the others,
the doubters were in the wrong.
It's another Brad I told you so story.
- [Interviewer] Kind of
the mother of all that.
(both laughing)
(gentle acoustic music)
- [David] In 1937, Brad
wanted to fly into the
Walsh Glacier to climb
Mount Lucania, the highest
unclimbed peak in North America.
- [Bradford] Lucania was a
very tempting morsel to take.
Walter Wood had made a
serious attempt on it
the preceding year,
he got to the top of
16,000 foot Mount Steel
and made the first ascent
of that and to his horror,
found that Lucania lay
10 miles away from that
in the direction of Mount Logan.
And he just said, I honestly
don't think that anybody's
ever gonna get to the top of that Mount.
Well, nobody should ever say that.
Particularly in Life magazine. (laughing)
(pleasant music)
I've been listening to tales
about a guy called Bob Bree.
And the way he was taking supplies up to
high altitude mines.
Taking off from the Valdez mudflats
in a ski equipped airplane
with skis that he'd
put underneath it, that
he'd got stainless steel
from an old abandoned cocktail bar.
So I wrote him a letter and
told him what we wanted to do,
to fly 250 miles in with no
place to land all the way,
and land on Walsh Glacier.
And we hoped to climb Lucania
and have him fly us back out.
(film projector ticking)
I got the telegram.
Anywhere you'll ride, I'll fly, Bob Bree.
(airplane propellers spin)
(orchestral music)
- [Paul] The flying back then, I mean,
every time you went out, you
didn't know whether you were
even going to make it back.
I mean, you might have to walk, you know,
two or three weeks to make
it back, 'cause planes,
I mean, they just weren't
as reliable back then.
It was a serious endeavor.
- [Bradford] If we cracked up there,
the chances are 50/50 that they'd
never even have found the airplane.
We landed at 8,500 feet in the
spot and exactly as planned,
but it decelerated very, very fast.
I jumped out the door when it stopped
and went to my waist in slush.
None of us expected that
at that altitude in Alaska,
even in mid June, it would be slush.
There was no way he'd be able
to take that airplane home.
We couldn't even taxi it up to camp,
and left it sitting
like that for the night.
We wondered would we
ever get it out of there.
- [David] It took five days
and stomping out of runways
and throwing everything out of the plane.
We've even took a ball-peen
hammer and changed the pitch of
the propeller with it so they
could get a sharper bite.
(airplane propeller spins)
- [Bradford] Bob said, the
only thing I'm telling you guys
now is, I wouldn't come
back to this God damn
place for a million bucks.
So he gave his airplane the
gun, headed down the glacier
and there was a little bulge
there and he completely
disappeared from sight.
But we could hear this
roar in the distance.
Finally, this little
mosquito appeared in the air
heading back to the
Valdez, 250 miles away.
And we felt like a long way off ourselves.
- [David] And he barely
wobbled into the air as he
took off, leaving Brad and Bob
Bates to their own devices.
No hope of picking them up later.
We've never even flew
back to check on the guys.
(stove top hissing)
- [Freddie] Okay, eggs.
Actually there's bacon,
right under the eggs.
- [Zack] It's getting pretty cold, huh?
- [Renan] Yeah.
- [Freddie] And it seems like
I would probably have
at least a thousand feet
of chains to Espresso Gap.
So, hopefully,
1500 feet above us, it would
be a good, hard cruise.
- [Renan] Oh yeah, this is
as good as it's gonna get.
- [Narrator] The first peak
step one is the Sugar Tooth.
It's a long convoluted rock climb
with small snow sections in between.
- Keep your helmets on and
your heads down on this.
(orchestral music)
- [Renan] Nice Zack, hauling.
When you're climbing on the Sugar Tooth,
you're constantly tip-toeing
across these knife blades of
rock that can bite you at any moment.
- [Freddie] As the day got warmer and
the conditions steadily got worse,
we were forced to choose between
slogging up deep wet snow
slopes or engaging in this
really ticky-tacky rock climbing
up and around steep
towers with sharp edges.
- [Renan] Sugar Tooth.
- Sugar Tooth!
- [Renan] Good old Sugie.
- Good old Sugie.
Kind of, there packing
a little bit of a punch.
How's it look?
(dramatic music)
Ow.
Stupid idea.
Fuck you.
No slack.
(chains clinking)
- [Zack] Yeah just good
finger lock, a little higher.
- [Renan] That's a funny way to charge.
- Check fuckin' this donkey out.
- [Renan] I slipped following
Zack and the rope came
tight over a blade of rock
and nearly cut in half.
And then shortly after that,
I foolishly dropped my ice tool.
And that meant I was never
going to be secure on any of the
snow climbing from that point on.
(dramatic music)
- [Freddie] It's like this
mountain is going to kill you
because it's just going to
beat your equipment down
to the point where it fails.
- [Renan] Baking in the heat.
Instead of easily scampering
across the top of the snow,
we kept punching through to our waists,
expending tons of energy
way too early in the climb.
- [Zack] Sug' sunny!
- [Freddie] We're at the
summit of the Sugar Tooth.
Psyched about that,
but definitely a humbling
day, first day on route.
And we just slogged really hard, so.
Gotta talk to Renan and Zach
and see what they want to do.
(laughing) I think I kind of
want to like pitch the tent
and crawl in the man sack
and just try to reboot
tomorrow morning,
(laughing) but we'll see.
- [Renan] It's beautiful out.
- [Zack] That was like the main pitch
that I was worried about.
- [Renan] Yeah.
(rustling)
- [Renan] Man won and
the configuration tucked.
- [Freddie] My next.
- [Renan] So today was a
speeder or a crashed out early,
getting some good rest after
the 16 hour push from base camp
through the horrendous snow
conditions and wet rock.
So, we're gonna get up early and
get the second tooth in the morning,
hopefully continue on from there.
(energetic music)
- [Freddie] A little rock climb today
for most of like the morning.
We probably would want
to do like a siesta.
Alright, you ready for this guy?
Ah, it was so good for a while.
- [Renan] When we woke
up on that second day,
there was a lot of questions
that needed to be answered in
terms of if it was
going to be safe enough.
And if it was a responsible
decision to move on.
- [Freddie] It looks like about
20 meters of down climbing.
Does that sound good?
- [Renan] Yeah.
- [Zack] Sure.
- [Freddie] It's pretty funny.
We're like 20 hours into this mission.
- [Zack] Yeah.
- [Freddie] Renan and
I made it here in like
five or six hours.
- [Zack] Yeah.
- [Freddie] That's just the way, I mean,
I knew that was gonna be case.
- [Zack] Yeah.
- [Freddie] Yeah, I think
we can still make it happen,
but, you know.
- [Renan] We didn't use our
full reserve or anything, It's-.
- Yeah.
- [Renan] Anyway, we do it it's
definitely not going to be cas',
but there's a few factors.
- [Freddie] We can charge,
chances of pulling the whole
thing off, pretty small.
You know, that's just one more-.
- [Zack] We're a day be- we're
kind of a day behind, too.
- Almost, yeah.
- [Zack] I mean, we went with
it, we rolled it, it's cool.
- If the forecast was good.
- [Zack] I just feel like
the writing's on the wall.
- Yeah.
- It's not cut and dry to
call it, like it usually is.
- [Renan] That's the smart thing to do.
- [Freddie] Yeah.
- All right.
- [Renan] Earlier on in our
careers, we might've gone
kamikaze on it, but the more
you get out and you do these
things or lose friends to the mountains,
the more careful you are and
the better decisions you make.
So this is the way to play it safe.
Possibly have another go at it.
(somber piano music)
(upbeat piano music)
- [Freddie] The day after we
came down after that attempt,
we figured we should switch out
our equipment and try it again.
But then when we were down at base camp,
the temperatures remained
unseasonably warm.
Here comes one.
And it just was raining down
wet avalanches and rock fall
all over the lower Gorge.
Three, two, one.
(laughing)
(loud rumbling)
- [Renan] It's really unstable
right now, it's obvious.
- [Freddie] Yeah.
The party next to us when
to try a gullied climb.
And I got a really bad feeling about it.
By midday, they still hadn't come back.
And I finally decided to ski
over there a little closer and
have a look for them.
(somber music)
We found their bodies
buried in avalanche debris
at the bottom of the gully.
(helicopter whirs)
- [Zack] Now the Rangers are
in, so this is the recovery.
- [Bradford] I think it's
important to point out
that there is something
that happens to both
the brilliant climbers and the bum ones.
And that's tough luck.
I've never believed in
what I call Russian roulette climbing,
which is going into a place
where you have constant danger
over which you have no control at all.
I think one of the reasons that we're
still here and chatting
with you today is the fact
we refused to take that kind of challenge.
- [David] Brad in his whole
life never went on an expedition
led by anybody else.
He was a good guy and
he would consult you,
but he was the leader and
his decision finally stuck.
- [Bradford] On all these
trips, the trip was my idea,
and maybe I knew more about climbing.
So I was sort of the logical leader,
let's take Lucania where
Bob Bates and I were alone.
And we got along very, very well.
- [David] Brad and Bob Bates
were complete opposites.
Brad, the headstrong leader,
had to do it his way.
Bob was the nicest guy in
the world, the most generous.
Yet he had an incredible
talent to be in a ticklish
situation and to chill out and calm down.
- [John] They had all the gear,
all the food and supplies,
and they decided rather than
just hightailing it out,
that they would go ahead
and climb Mount Lucania.
- [Bradford] We could've
walked out two ways,
200 miles back into Alaska.
Or if we remembered that Walter
Wood who said Lucania was
impossible to climb had said
so from the top of Mount
Steel, and we figured
if we climbed Lucania,
we could get over the top of Mount Steel.
And we would be going back into Canada.
- [John] They'd pioneer a new style,
which I call fast and light.
Once they committed to going
over Lucania and Steel,
they stripped down radically,
they cut the floor out of their tent.
They threw away one sleeping
bag and slept head to toe.
The two of them in a single bag.
And they threw out a lot of food.
- [Bradford] We were out
for a hell of a long time.
We started at eight in the morning, it was
four in the afternoon
when we got to the top.
(orchestral music)
19,000 foot Mount Logan in one direction,
all the way down the coast to St. Elias.
The view was absolutely magnificent.
That was the first
ascent of Mount Lucania.
- [John] They were so sanguine
that Brad took what I argue
is the finest summit photo
yet taken in the far North.
It's just a stunning portrait of both
exhaustion and jubilation.
- [Bradford] But the biggest
problem we had on that trip was
not climbing Mount Lucania.
We figured that anything that
Walter Wood could get up,
we could get down.
And he told us exactly where we would find
a huge cache of food on the other side.
So we walked down for the longest set,
we were went from 14,000
feet to 16,000 feet
to get to the top of Steel.
And then from 16,000 feet,
all the way down to the head
of the Wolf Creek glacier
at 5,000 feet, all in one
day, it was an endless day.
And the next day we walked all the way
down to the cache of food.
The bears had been in the cache
and there was not one single thing left.
The bears had chewed every single can.
It was 19 miles from that
cache to the Donjeck river.
And we got to the Donjeck
river and it was in full flood.
- [John] In desperation,
they took the camera and the
notebooks and the film
and hung it on a bush
with a note saying, you know,
if you find these at least
you'll know what happened to us,
basically sort of recognizing
that their chance of survival
was getting pretty slim, perhaps none.
- [Bradford] We had two duffel
bags with all our clothing
and everything and we tied
them up real, really tight.
And we jumped into the river and
we went in as deep as we could on foot.
When we lost our footing,
we used them like life preservers.
And we swum to the other shore.
We were sitting down on a
bunch of tussocks and all of a
sudden we heard a tinkling sound.
I began to wonder if I was hearing
the bells of heaven or something.
And then all of a sudden,
a hundred yards away,
we saw a man and then another
man, and these guys said,
where in hell have you come from?
We said, we've come from Valdez, Alaska.
And they said, where were you going?
We said, we're going
any place you're going.
- [John] Fortunately,
they were able to go back
and get that camera.
But I think that Mount Lucania
expedition is one of the
most incredible stories
of drive and survival.
- [Mike] Brad and Bob Bates.
Both of those men had shrugged it off as,
well, you know, we just kinda walked out.
- [Interviewer] Did anybody
end up injured on that trip?
- [Bradford] Nobody.
Nobody got a skinned ankle
on it, everything went fine.
- [David] Brad was very proud of the fact
that in all his 13, 15 expeditions,
you know, they never lost a partner.
He never had a partner
suffer a serious accident.
But I discovered when I
wrote Brad's biography,
Brad himself had become
a pilot in his twenties.
And as far as I know, he
was a very good pilot.
- [Interviewer] Flying wasn't exactly safe
when you began flying, was it?
Ever have any narrow escapes?
- [Bradford] Well, I had one.
Way back in 1938.
- [David] 1938, he'd been
in Seattle on Lake Union.
And had taken out a float plane,
the wife of a climbing buddy
of his and another woman just
to do a routine sightseeing trip.
Perfect day in Seattle.
Brad came in, in the float plane
he'd only flown once before
and screwed up the landing.
The plane sank.
Brad and the guy,
punched out the windshield
and swam to safety.
And then dived back in to
try to rescue the two women.
They both drowned.
(somber orchestral music)
He never talked about this.
I only learned about this from extensive
research into newspaper clippings.
This was a dark, dark thing for,
especially for such a
perfectionist as Brad
to have really fucked
up and killed two women
who thought they were out on the
30 minute sightseeing flight.
He was terribly disturbed
by it the rest of his life.
It's why he never flew again.
- [Renan] Just two months
before we were supposed
to head back to Alaska,
Zack and I were in Colorado.
Spending most of our time
climbing and training together.
- [Zack] This climb means a lot to me.
I really, really want it bad.
I've never put this much time
and energy into one climb
before I've never tried
to climb this complicated.
And I made a lot of sacrifices
to try something like this.
Right now, I'm living in a good friend's
basement in Boulder, Colorado,
and I'm recently single after
an eight year relationship.
We had a really amazing
relationship for a long time.
And the stress of me traveling
and climbing became too
great on that relationship.
And the reality of really
close friends of ours
dying played a huge part of it I think,
because it made her worst
nightmares a reality.
And so the idea of something
like that happening to me
and you know, me putting
myself in those situations
was too much for her.
And I can't blame her for that.
(dramatic music)
- [Nurse] I want you to
squeeze my fingers, Okay?
Good.
- [Zack] Two months before we
were due to leave for Alaska,
for another attempt on the Moose's Tooth,
Renan was filming some
professional skiers in the Tetons.
- [Nurse] Open your mouth for me,
make sure you don't have
any broken teeth, good.
- [Zack] Catches an edge,
tumbles down the mountain,
over a cliff band and lands on his head.
(radio plays indistinctly)
We're lucky as partners
we're able to get them
down to the base of the mountain and
on a life flight to
advanced medical support.
- [Paramedic] One, two, three.
- [Zack] The way I
first heard about it was
an hysterical phone call
from Renan's girlfriend.
That was like basically
Renan's dead or is, you know,
going to be quadriplegic
for the rest of his life.
And I was at work and so
I just threw down whatever
I was doing and drove
over to their house and
tried to, you know, get the details.
- [Freddie] He had a
depressed skull fracture,
broken two vertebrae and
severed the one of the two
vertebral arteries that supply
blood flow to the brain.
(speaking indistinctly)
- Headed to the neurosurgeon,
realize that
this'll probably work out, but
it does hurt me pretty deeply
to not to be involved in
all the projects that
are going on, especially
the Tooth Traverse, because
that's something that you put,
it's something that we put
three years of time into.
And after everyone said
it couldn't be done,
(walkie talkie sounds intermediately)
We solved a few of the major
problems and showed that it was
possible last year and right now that's,
that was the one thing.
I really want it, so.
It's tough.
(somber piano music)
- [Freddie] When it happened
I figured the climb was over,
at least for that year.
I mean, the question was
were we gonna go without him?
- [Renan] We have loved ones back home
that I'm sure would be destroyed
if we lost our life in the mountains.
I can only imagine what
my funeral would be like.
It's about five months later,
technically I'm still healing
a broken neck in two places,
two vertebrae, like right
in my spinal column.
And I can touch my head
and feel where the skull is
still tender from having it
sliced open for brain surgery,
Getting injured just before
we had to leave on the trip
was really devastating.
And I knew it was going to be
really hard for them to deal
with the fact that I
was out of commission.
- [Freddie] Renan's at home
with his neck immobilized
in a brace and he's
Skyping with me every day,
talking about, you know,
we're going to go back to
the Tooth Traverse next year.
So, so we waited.
- [Chiropractor] And on
this side, you can see
the needle swing.
(grunts)
I gotta get down lower.
- [Renan] I've worked
really hard to recover
as fast as I have.
I just been sitting for so long.
I need to go out and push myself and be
in the mountains and create.
(gentle music)
As a professional climber,
I have these competing priorities.
First I wanted to climb in the
Himalaya with my North Face
team and then go back to the
Tooth Traverse in the spring.
When I thought the conditions
were gonna be pretty good.
This didn't sit well with Zack.
He wanted to get back to
Alaska as soon as possible.
- [Zack] Renan has made
an incredible recovery
and by some kind of miracle,
the guy was going to be able to climb.
You know, I said, let's
go try this thing again.
You know, like we've talked
about going in the fall before.
Let's, why not.
But he made another
choice, which is great.
You know, like his other
project is super rad
and I'm sure they'll succeed.
Those guys are professional climbers
who get to go on big trips.
So those guys have a different climbing
experience than I have.
My last Alpine climbing
trip was a two month trip.
It's the longest expedition
I've ever been on,
down in Argentina.
Two months,
pretty much spent all the money I had
and I climbed one day and with no summit.
So that was a bit hard, you know,
to sacrifice the time and
energy and money that I put
towards it, it is a big thing to me.
To me the filming has
just become a distraction
and taking away from the
actual experience of climbing.
I'm just at this tipping
point where the mountains are
taking more than they're giving.
Hanging Christmas lights,
painting out for a living.
Yeah. (laughs)
- [Camera Man] Pretty crazy.
- It's a weird way to make
a living, but it works.
So I made the decision
to bow out of the climb.
We created this monster (engine starts up)
And I just hope they
finish the fucking thing.
Even if I can't be there,
I just want it done.
- [Renan] I almost lost
everything in my accident.
People always ask me, why do you do it?
I just wanted to use the
chance that I was given
to show that there's this
joyous side of climbing.
(gentle piano music)
- [Bradford] We've added a
lot to opening people's eyes
towards the beauty of these places
and making it easier if you're
a climber to find new routes.
The things that you
remember about these trips
are people, not things.
Being with these wonderful people.
- Yeah, that was a sharp spin.
(screaming)
- [Freddie] When you're on an
expedition, most of the time,
it doesn't feel like
you're risking your life.
It feels like you're on
this incredible journey to
explore the landscape.
Hello, beautiful wife.
(dramatic orchestral music)
- [Janet] Yeah, you good?
- [Freddie] I'm actually good, what a day.
- I always say I don't care about summits,
but really does feel good.
- [Bradford] I'm going to tell
you the most important thing
in my whole life- Barbara.
That's the best step I ever
took from the day I was born
until this afternoon.
- [Barbara] Brad never talked
about mountain climbing
when we got engaged.
But when we were first married,
I found myself on my way to
Mount Birther in South Eastern Alaska.
- [Interviewer] Well,
why did you think Barbara
was up for this?
I mean most people would not-.
- Just because I think Barbara's terrific,
and she still is.
- [Barbara] I don't think he had any idea
whether I was up to it or
not, he just wanted me to go.
- [Bradford] That was the first
time Barbara had ever done
anything of this sort and she
rushed right up and did it
without the slightest difficult.
- [Interviewer] In '47,
you became the first woman
to climb McKinley.
- Yes.
- [Interviewer] And that
was a long, long expedition.
- Yes, three months.
- [Interviewer] Three months?
- [Barbara] Three months, because we were
making a map, making a movie.
(twangy guitar music)
When we got near the
top, I was in the middle,
Shorty Lang said, okay,
Barbara, now you go first.
And I said, oh no, no, no.
We just go in the order
we're in, of course.
And he said, don't you realize you're the
first woman to get to
the top of this place?
And I said, oh, heck,
who cares about that?
I didn't think the world cared about
a woman getting to the top.
Never done it if I knew it
was gonna be such a fuss.
Anyway, so I got to the top.
And then Brad came up and joined us.
(orchestral music)
- [Bradford] It's been wonderful for me
over the years to have a
wonderful partner like Barbara,
all the way through this stuff.
- [Mike] To sort of sum
Brad up is really hard.
He was an educator, a scientist, explorer.
But he would always land on the education
because no matter what
he did, he educated.
- [Bradford] The thing
that made the climb fun
was the fact we were
trying to create something
that would share the thrill of discovery.
This sharing doesn't just apply to climbing.
It also applies to our Museum of Science.
- [John] The Museum of Science.
When he took it over, it
was this derelict old attic
of a junk heap in South Boston.
Brad absolutely transformed it into the,
one of the great teaching
museums in the world.
And he actually had said
often that was the thing
he wanted to be remembered for,
above and beyond the
climbing and the photography.
- [Kurt] Photography was
always, I think in second place
to his idea of scientific adventure.
Not just adventure, but
scientific adventure.
- [John] There are parallels
amongst scientific exploration
and human exploration.
All of it comes down to
our drive to want to know
or want to see new places.
Flying on the Space Shuttle is just
an amazing place to do photography.
From space, you can
see thousands of miles.
2009, you know, Brad had just
passed away two years earlier.
The American Alpine club
offered to let me take Brad's
camera, bringing Brad's legacy
to the next generation of
aerial photography to space.
Truly incredible because
that's the camera that he took
on his Mount Lucania expedition.
- [Bradford] I had quite
a number of climbs,
sort of in my hip pocket that I began
parceling out one by one.
I just sort of sit and wait
and see how they did it.
And I've had a lot of fun out of that,
particularly after I got old enough.
So I wasn't doing these
wonderful climbs myself.
- [David] When I was a
undergraduate at Harvard,
you freely gave of all your
advice about Alaska, you let us-.
- [Bradford] Yeah.
- [David] You've played this
role with an extraordinary
number of young climbers.
You can take Brad's pictures and seek out
your next great expedition on them.
- [Jack] A mentor is a hero of generosity.
You know, Brad was a lot of things,
but he was super generous.
And I think, you know, it
wasn't just my experience
that was, you know, hundreds
of people's experience.
He would send us photograph,
you know, unsolicited.
What do you think about this?
- [Mike] I think his
photography will last a
really long time, but to us climbers,
I think what matters is not
that he did the hardest climbs
ever it's that he climbed remote,
arduous, exhausting peaks.
And he encouraged many other generations,
including mine, to seek out
the challenges that were beyond
him and people like Freddie and Renan
are still pursuing the
Washburn challenges.
- [Freddie] How did you describe
the snow conditions, man?
- [Man In Blue Coat] The
gorge, we got probably a foot.
- [Freddie] Uh huh.
- And at the mountain it looked like
there was at least two and a half.
- [Freddie] Yeah, yeah.
- Yeah, a foot in the last couple days.
And then we had a storm before
that too, then had a couple.
It's the eye deep to nipple
deep snow wallowing, yep,
unconsolidated wallowing.
- [Man In Blue Coat] Yeah,
every single aspect I'd been on
has been pretty miserable snow conditions.
- Yeah, cool.
They had just had the biggest
snow storm of the year
the week before we arrived.
The mountains were covered
in six feet of new snow.
And everyone we met in Talkeetna
warned us that it was a really bad time.
- [Renan] We'd waited for two
years for another crack at
the Traverse, but it wasn't
even about the climb anymore.
We wanted to do something
in the true spirit of Brad
to come back with something to share.
It's the 14th, three o'clock
and we're launching.
- [Freddie] And we're launching.
We get to do it with only (indistinct).
- [Paul] It's good to be a
part of something that has a
lot of pieces that you
have to connect together.
There are certain climbers,
like they have a plutonium rod,
you know, just burning inside of them.
It's not just going up and
getting something done.
They're tying their whole
life into the whole climb.
(phone ringing)
(sighs)
- [Renan] Can you breath
out a big cold breath here?
The rumors were correct and the conditions
were very snowy and the going was slow.
- [Freddie] The thing was, might've taken
15 or 20 minutes longer
working twice as hard.
But I still got to the top of the pitch.
It set a little light
off in my head, and I,
I realized like, maybe
we can do this thing.
We took it one pitch at a time.
And we went back to our old bivy from 2010
at the top of the Sugar Tooth.
- [Renan] We're at our
bivy overlooking Denali
and climbed for about 12 hours today.
And even though it's
still blazing sun out,
I'm going to try to get some rest.
That's the update.
(thud)
- [Freddie] Ah!
- [Renan] What's going
on over there, Freddie?
- Digging for buried treasure.
We found a bag of snacks
left from the attempt
two years ago.
Not exactly a street legal maneuver, but
this buys us another two days of climbing,
which we may need.
Day two, we started up the
South Ridge of the eye tooth.
The climbing got a lot steeper
and the conditions are challenging enough.
We have to pitch it out and
stop and belay each other.
It takes us all day to get to
the summit of the eye tooth.
Day three, there was a
segment of unclimbed ridge
connecting the eye tooth
to the bear's tooth.
- [Renan] This is deep Alaskan
cornice ridge climbing,
huge waves that are 200 feet tall.
These waves of snow.
And you don't want to climb
on the top of the wave
because the wave could collapse.
And we've had friends die,
not knowing where the
point is on the wave,
where you can actually be.
You're tiptoeing on the
backside of the wave
for what seems like a mile.
That was pretty real.
We've been on the summit all day.
Now it's just a matter of weather,
but we're looking really good.
- [Freddie] We knew if we could
only make it to the summit
of the bear's tooth, we'd be halfway home.
(helicopter whirs)
(man indistinctly speaking on radio)
- [Renan] I think first you
see it from the ridge line.
And then you see Denali,
we can kind of just be
charging up the snow
towards the summit.
- [Paul] All right, we'll
see you in a little bit.
- [Renan] Okay, awesome.
Thanks Paul.
- [Paul] They're coming.
- There's a lot riding on the next hour.
(upbeat orchestral music)
(radio buzzes)
- [Bradford] Up the long
delirious burning blue,
I've topped the wind swept
heights with easy grace.
Where never Lark or even Eagle flew.
And while his silent lifting mind,
I've trod the high
under-trespassed sanctity of space.
Whip out my hand and
touch the face of God.
(orchestral music)
(radio buzzes)
- [Renan] Making it across
that final section of ridge
onto the summit of the
bear's tooth was like
unlocking the last piece of the puzzle.
We were on the center
of the Tooth Traverse
in the most beautiful part of it.
For us, it was just this fleeting moment
in our concept of how long we
were toiling on this climb.
(triumphant orchestral music)
- [Freddie] We figured when we reached the
South face of the Moose's
Tooth, we'd be on easy street
because we had already
climbed that section.
Nice, Renan!
Without Zack there, those pitches felt
way harder than we remembered.
There was a big snow field
that was dripping water
down on this five, 11 slab traverse.
And Renan had to tiptoe across
it doing really precise,
insecure climbing.
That was like the ultimate little.
- Yes, Zack, I almost died on the pitch
you pranced up in 20 minutes.
(laughing)
Once I got through the slab,
Freddie led us through the Bleeder pitch
towards the summit of the moose.
(heavy breathing)
- Denali looks cool.
Renan and I realized that, here we are,
and we're just about out of food and
we pretty much had no
choice, but to continue on.
It took us all night to get across the
summit ridge of the Moose's tooth.
- [Renan] Been going for almost 24 hours.
(yelling in distance)
We've done the entire Tooth Traverse.
Now we're just trying
to finish up the moose.
- [Freddie] Fuck yeah!
By 6:00 AM the next morning
we were stopping for another
quick rest on the West
summit of the Moose's tooth.
Before we began repelling
off the side of the mountain.
- [Renan] Hour 30 probably of the push.
It's kind of this unique feeling.
- [Freddie] Dreaming.
- Yeah, it's like a hallucination
without hallucinogens,
but you're doing things
where one wrong step,
you could die.
So it's even more trippy.
You just got to try to
keep yourself together.
Hour after hour.
And we probably have six hours to go.
- [Freddie] The last
challenge of the climb was
descending this gully down to the glacier
at the bottom of the gorge
and gully's are dangerous.
And we were going into this
one at the worst possible time.
It was 4:00 PM in the afternoon.
We had been on the go
for 30 some odd hours.
And all the circumstances were pointing to
this being a bad call,
but we had to get down.
We didn't think it'd take us too long.
And I realized how soft it was
at that hour of the day and
sat down and was seated past Renan
as he's really intensely
kicking steps down.
- [Renan] There could have
been this giant crevasse
down there to eat us both up.
But after he committed, of course,
I was going to do the same.
And we were just sliding like little kids.
(orchestral music)
(chains clinking)
- [Freddie] Nice job!
- [Renan] The first thing
we did was we called Zack.
He was excited for us.
- [Freddie] All right, man!
Hang loose.
- [Renan] And he knew that
he was this big driving force
for the Tooth Traverse overall.
- [Freddie] The thing I'll
remember more than any other
detail of the climb was how it felt
when we returned to base camp.
We just hung out in the
tent, listening to music,
the door wide open,
looking out on the skyline
we had just walked across.
By all rights, we should
have been exhausted
and should've fallen asleep immediately,
but we felt more energized than ever.
Those moments come so rarely.
We didn't want it to end.
(orchestral music)
(music ends suddenly)
- [David] Brad's favorite quotations,
which were touchstones for
him, one is from Aristotle-
quote, the search for truth-.
- [Brad And David Simultaneously]
Is in one way hard-.
- [Bradford] And in another easy,
for it is evident that
no one of us can ever-.
- [Renan] Master it fully.
- [Freddie] Or use it wholly.
Each one of us-.
- [Renan] Adds to our understanding-.
- [Bradford] Of the world around us.
- [All] And from all the facts assembled-.
- [Renan] Arises a certain grandeur.
- [Freddie] Arises a certain grandeur.
- [Bradford] Arises a certain grandeur.
(orchestral music)
(electronic music)
(twangy guitar music)
(gentle music)
(engine whirring)
(aircraft radio playing)
(music continues)
(aircraft radio continues intermittently)
(music intensifies)
(acoustic music)
- [Freddie] Most people
have never heard of
the Great Gorge in the Shadow of Denali,
but we keep coming back
here year after year.
(guitar music continues)
- [Renan] In the lower 48,
everything's really busy,
people moving around,
running off to their
jobs or responsibilities.
(guitar music continues)
You're in a world that's white and black,
sometimes golden rock.
And that's about it.
It's a pretty special place.
- [Zack] You know,
usually you go somewhere
and there's one, two truly
inspiring world-class peaks.
And this, this gorge is just full of them.
- [Freddie] It's always been
just kind of below the radar
because the climbs are
all really challenging.
It's not the place you come
to bag some easy ascents.
It's more of a place, you know,
for people who don't mind failing
and kind of like to
like to flog themselves.
Like the beat down.
- [Renan] 14 Hours in.
And yeah, there's a lot of rock up there.
(wind blowing)
- [Freddie] For young
climbers who are out there
seeking adventures,
and little swaths of mountain
to explore where nobody's been,
the big challenge is like finding
any blank spots that are left.
- [Renan] When you do
discover a big climb,
that's never been done,
it kind of feels like falling in love.
- [Freddie] Who knows why some
ideas spark into obsessions,
but this one took seven years,
and it all started with a
black and white photograph.
- [Renan] Anzel Adams wrote,
"you recognize the explorer
in Bradford Washburn at first sight.
There's something about the
eyes, the set of the chin,
not fierce, just determined.
He doesn't immediately remind
on of the vast bulk of Denali,
but he has in fact conquered
this extraordinary mountain
three times.
Not only Denali has
commanded his eye and heart,
the Grand Canyon, the great
peaks of the Western Yukon
and the Himalaya have all come under
his acquiring attention
and the well-directed eye of his camera."
- [David] Brad didn't
have many mentors himself.
He was too much his own
man, too self-taught.
But, photographically,
the great influence on him
was Vittorio Sella.
Sella's dictum was big
subjects need big photographs.
Brad would quote this all the time.
- [Bradford] Use big negatives
to take big subjects.
There's nothing like Mount
McKinley or any one of the great
peaks of Alaska when photographed
with a camera like this.
- [John] One of his favorite
cameras in the early days was a
Fairchild camera.
Something that was really
developed for flying over cities
and mapping them for wartime,
military reconnaissance.
And these large cameras
were very heavy,
very hard to use, all manual.
- [Bradford] The crank
would advance the film
and also set the shutter.
They would put it in and it would go.
And I want to show you
the size of the spool of
the film we've got in here.
Now this takes a 125 eight by ten
inch pictures in a single roll.
I will take this out and show you it
and look at that compared with
a little bit of an ordinary
roll that carries 36
35 millimeter pictures.
- [David] But what Brad
realized that almost no one
before had been able to figure
out how to solve was that
when you look at a big
mountain from the base, well,
it looks like four fifths of the way up is
actually only halfway up.
If you get up in an airplane
and see it from mid height,
you're getting a God's
eye view of the peak
as it really looks.
We all know Ansel Adams'
famous picture of Denali from
Wonder Lake,
but in Brad's pictures, you
see that same face from midair.
And it's so much more stunning.
(orchestral music)
- [Kurt] One year I got a
book of Bradford Washburn's,
and as I looked at it,
I had that sense of
beginning all over that
I didn't really know anything.
With Brad's pictures,
suddenly I saw mountains as
individuals that they stood
among other mountains.
Brad takes something
colossal and makes it human.
- [John] He's the greatest
aerial mountain photographer
of all time bar none.
- I can talk to the pilot and say,
get that left wing a little higher.
Now, pull back your stick.
And in that way, the pilot is framing
the picture of shoot me rather
than they trying to play
around with it, with the camera.
(orchestral music)
When I can I like to
get a little figure in
to give some idea of the
magnitude of the scene.
(orchestral music)
- [John] You look at this
colossal landscape and suddenly
you realize down in the corner,
there are two tiny little figures.
- [Mike] He knew that you
couldn't really appreciate this,
large landscape until you
had scale or to sort of give
people that just visceral feeling
of being in the middle of
this vast wilderness.
(orchestral music)
- [Brian] He knew the mountains
through a mountaineer's
eyes, a person who wasn't a
climber wouldn't photograph
in the same way he did.
- [John] But do you think
he devoted himself to the
printing, making beautiful prints?
No, he was happy with an eight
by 10 contact and he could
draw on it so he could show
climbers, Hey, try this.
This could be a first descent.
- [David] Before Brad got on
the scene in the early 1930s,
the Alaska range had had a
handful of monumental ascents
but all the other peaks were unclimbed.
He was like, my God,
let's go get them before
somebody else does.
- [Bradford] In a way, we were
lucky to be able to go into
that wilderness and be the
first people to see it.
Those were experiences that people
are very rare to have nowadays.
- [Freddie] I was going
up to Alaska every spring,
working as a guide on Denali.
And on days off in Talkeetna,
I'd go down to the ranger station
where they have this great
resource of old Brad Washburn photos.
Just looking for inspiration
for something new to climb.
And for some reason,
I kept on circling back
to the Moose's Tooth
in some of the shots of the range.
The Moose's Tooth is known
as this iconic complex peak
that's the centerpiece of the Great Gorge.
It's less of a singular mountain
and more like a jawbone of
many interconnected spiky teeth.
Most of the summits had been climbed,
but nobody had tried to traverse
all of them in a single go.
Spring of 2009,
I was traveling through Colorado
with a good friend of mine,
Micah Dash, and Micah and
I ended up in Boulder,
crashing on the couch of
his friends Renan and Zack.
They were heading to Alaska
that spring to the Ruth Gorge.
And one night after a few beers,
I let my secret slip
about the Tooth Traverse.
- It was certainly one of
the most creative lines
I'd ever seen.
It's a type of climb where you're
climbing on a skyline the entire time.
It's like you're always on a summit.
- [Freddie] Later that spring,
we all sort of went our separate ways.
I went home to New Hampshire.
Micah left on an expedition to China.
- [Micah] Probably
snowing at midnight or so.
It's about five now,
just kind of hanging out
in this pretty sick location.
- And Renan and Zack were
about to leave for Alaska.
When one day we got this phone call.
The bodies of our friends in
China and just been found.
- My life is completely
driven by the mountains.
And it's given me some
of the best experiences,
but also the worst and probably the time
where it hit hardest on that
negative side was when we got
the call that Johnny and Micah
had died in an avalanche in China.
Micah held my hand and brought me
into the climbing community.
And to lose someone that close to you
is something that affects you deeply.
But in the face of that,
Zack and I still decided
to go to the Ruth Gorge.
We left just a few days after
the memorial ceremony and went
into the mountains, not
knowing what we would do.
It's super counter intuitive
to have your best friends die
and then head straight into
the mountains and do something
equally as dangerous.
But after a certain amount of time
for us, it was just healthy to
go to a space that was quiet
and beautiful, where we could
process our own thoughts.
(acoustic music)
It took a few days,
but eventually the mountains
pulled us in and we were there
and we decided to go test ourselves.
We look over at the Tooth Traverse,
which our friend Freddie
had told us about.
And it became obvious that
that was the objective.
There was no planning.
Our head space was fucked.
We pretty much just tried it on a whim.
(stream trickling)
So the climb begins to express a gap.
Nice job, dude.
- [Zack] Pretty sweet, woo!
- [Renan] We were so unprepared
that we were extremely light
and the conditions were
really, really warm.
And that allowed us to make
it really far, really fast.
- [Zack] Anyone.
- [Renan] You're able to
make it past the big corner
sections of the eye tooth very quickly.
We made it all the way up
until that unknown unclimbed
section between the missing
tooth and the bear's tooth.
(groans)
We hit that section after we
basically sat and shivered
the night on a small ledge.
- [Zack] It was a long night for a place
that doesn't get dark.
- [Renan] When we got up in the morning,
it was clear that neither one
of us was really feeling it.
What's the deal with that guy?
- [Zack] This guy right here
is off of Micah's chess set.
We spent a lot of time playing and
that chess set went to
China and came back.
Came back to us.
If you look, it kinda looks like him.
The big nose, beady
eyes full of attention.
So just a nice little
piece to bring along.
Little piece of Micah right there
looking after us.
It's perfect, huh?
- [Renan] I'm really glad we have it.
- Yeah!
- [Renan] We had just come from
the funeral with hundreds of
people in the community weeping,
and you have to push it
on some of those climbs.
It's just how it goes.
But for the sake of the
community and for the sake of our
friends and family,
it just wasn't the time to take
another one of those risks.
As soon as we got down,
we knew we had to contact Freddie
because he's the one who saw
the line on Washburn's photo
in the first place.
(acoustic music)
- At the end of 2009,
I was trying to simultaneously
be a climbing guide,
a freelance writer and
good partner to Janet.
We were living in this small
12 by 12 cabin we built.
We chose to live that way
without a flushing toilet or a
shower or even a closet.
But we did have this incredible
freedom to pack up and leave
for a three month expedition if we wanted.
Then one day I got an
email from Renan and Zack
and lo and behold, they had gone and tried
the Tooth Traverse.
(gentle music)
I wasn't upset or wronged.
Nobody owns these mountains.
But I would have been
disappointed if they had just
walked up to the climb and done it.
At the same time,
it didn't surprise me at
all that they had failed.
The Tooth Traverse is a big,
big route to piece together.
And it has a lot of snow climbing
and steep ridge traverses.
And that sort of climbing
suits my strengths.
So the more we talked about
it, the more it was obvious,
we should just go up
there the next spring and
give it a try as a team of three.
At the time, I didn't know
much about Brad Washburn
beyond the photos,
but the more I got psyched on the climb,
the more I became fascinated by his story.
And it began right here in the
mountains of New Hampshire.
- [Bradford] For the
first 10 years of my life,
I had perfectly terrible hay fever.
And I've had a cousin who
took me up to the top of Mount
Washington, the summer of 1921,
which got me immediately
interested in climbing.
Because every time I went
on a trail up a mountain,
there was no hay fever.
- [Mike] He had a loving family
that encouraged exploration
of the mind and the
physical exploration.
They came from some wealth.
So they had a summer home
up in the white mountains.
You had a mother who
gave to her young son,
a small little pocket
camera where he learned,
self-learned had to take photographs.
When he was in the white mountains,
he was making hand drawn
maps of Squam Lake.
So you have this affinity for cartography.
Years later, Alaska
combined all of his talents
with opportunities.
- [Bradford] My first
trip to Alaska was 1930,
we organized during my freshman year,
we wanted to climb Mount Fair weather.
- [David] He had the
tremendous fear of failure.
The only two failures among
his expeditions were his first
three, the Fair weather and Crillon.
Every time after that,
he got to the summit.
And those early failures really fueled
his perfectionism and his high achieving.
- [David] The map that
they had of the region
was woefully under
representing the landscape.
It almost told you nothing.
(adventurous music)
When I read the early
accounts of exploration,
all I can think about is a
circus act without a net.
There was no one to come save them.
- [Brian] Many of these
early exhibitions used horses
for packing your gear in.
The bugs were just eating
the men and horses alive.
The rivers were cold,
swift, full of glacier silt.
- [David] From a geographic standpoint,
Alaska was this unknown territory.
But Brad's use of the airplane
transformed it because
to be up in the air,
it allowed him to take the photographs,
but he'd also used those
photos to create maps.
- [Brian] He was able
to correlate with the
aerial photography, very
accurately the position of
everything in the range,
including the Ruth Gorge.
And the range comes alive in his map.
- [John] When you think about exploration,
it all comes down to logistics.
With the advent of the aircraft,
suddenly you had a perspective
where you could see
over that next hill, you could
see over that next range.
You can map out large
distances because you could see
hundreds of miles.
Brad was always looking at
aviation technology and how he
could leverage that to get a
better view of the mountains
and whether it was for route
finding or whether it was for
beauty or whether it was for cartography.
And he took advantage of the
next aircraft, the next camera.
- [Interviewer] When was
the first time you felt like
a real connection with the
device known as a camera?
- It was actually probably
pretty late in my life that |
first felt a connection to a camera.
(laughing)
- [Interviewer] You
can't say it like that.
That sounds like you have a-. (laughing)
- Okay.
- [Interviewer] Sexual
relationship with the camera.
(both laughing)
- I had the first-.
- [Interviewer] Did you see that?
- The first time I fondled a
camera was probably in 2005.
(acoustic music)
I was doing a lot of artwork.
And then there came this point
where I realized you could
reach a lot more people
shooting with cameras.
Brad's photography taught me
that you could use these tiny
human elements to convey the scale
of these massive landscapes.
(yelling in distance)
On the first trip with Zack,
we had cameras, but
they were pretty basic.
- Just another day off at the tent.
Mmm.
(grunts)
(acoustic music continues)
- [Renan] I think I shot 87% of the thing
on fish eye adapt or.
I've since learned that it's
not the most professional way
to shoot, but at the time
it looked pretty cool to me,
kind of like old school skate videos.
By the time of the second
attempt of the Tooth Traverse,
all of our lives had evolved.
Both Freddie and myself
had gained sponsors
and we became professional climbers.
Freddie was a budding writer
who had just finished his first
book and his work were starting
to get picked up by bigger
and bigger publications.
You want to grab the pot off
the stove for one sec, Zack?
(indistinct)
Zack in my mind, he was a
much more talented climber
than we were,
but he just didn't have
that gene of self promotion.
And part of being a professional
climber in this day and age
is how you tell stories.
- [Zack] It seemed like overnight,
everybody I knew became
a professional climber.
It became harder for me to
find partners, ironically.
There was always like, you
know, there had to be a
photographer, there had to be, you know,
some kind of spin to going out climbing.
And I just wanted to keep going climbing.
- [Renan] What are you thinking, Zack?
- Why we've come here for
the second year in a row
to try this silly thing.
It's been cute about it.
Most days can get a little
obsessive like that,
looking at pictures way too long.
Maybe, maybe we'll get lucky.
(gentle orchestral music)
- [Freddie] The crux of the
traverse would be the South face
of the Moose's tooth.
It's right in the middle of the traverse.
And it's about a 2000 foot big wall.
And it had never been climbed before.
We decided to go and do a recon and try
that section as it's
own first ascent to see
if the full traverse was even possible.
- [Renan] People in town had said, oh,
that's a lost cause, it's been tried,
the rock just goes to shit
and it's hard to climb.
- [Zack] So is the anchor a sign that
someone's already tried this
way and failed? (laughs)
But whoever they were,
they weren't Zach Smith.
- [Renan] We saw some fixed gear where
people had bailed off of.
People had decided it
wasn't worth the risk.
Beautiful day in the gorge.
The rock is so bad.
You can just go like this with your hand
and a whole sheet will fall off.
(hammer banging against rock)
- [Freddie] There's
Zack and there's Renan.
This lead will probably
take a couple hours,
see how Renan does with it.
Rock fall, woohoo!
Gnarly.
(gentle music continues)
They're okay.
I'm just going to chill
here and hope for the best.
Looking a little ugly,
turn that thing around.
- [Renan] Tried to hold this pin,
and I took a chunk out of my finger.
- [Freddie] How bad is it?
- It's not bad, it's just
like that whole right side.
You see?
(orchestral music)
- [Renan] Take it to the top, Freddie.
- Gonna try.
Close.
(dramatic orchestral music)
- Is this it?
- This is it.
- We did it?
- We did it!
Good day, got a summit.
It's always a good day
when you get to the top.
- Not a bad first rope up.
(all laughing)
Sick!
(laughing continues)
She goes, she goes!
(laughing)
- [Renan] The big mystery is solved.
- [Zack] The mystery is solved!
- [Renan] When we get to
the top of the Moose's Tooth
and figured out that section,
we had the confidence that the
entire traverse was possible.
- Get the boys.
- Yeah!
- Climbed the South face
of the Moose's Tooth
a couple days ago.
And we're gonna go go try
the traverse tomorrow.
Weather's just been splitter,
so we're pretty psyched.
(orchestral music)
- [Renan] Getting the conditions right on
the Tooth Traverse is really, really hard.
If it's warm, like you
want for rock climbing,
the snow conditions could be out of whack
and totally shut you down.
But then if the snow conditions are right,
it's probably too cold for
the technical route climbing,
and any single storm
could wipe out the route
for the entire season.
Something's always going to be bad.
(dramatic music)
- [Freddie] Funky weather.
- [Renan] Lingering slowly.
- [Freddie] It is just fucking warm.
- [Zack] Warm temps.
It was splitter two hours ago.
- [Renan] Pressure's dropped as well.
We'll probably have a
restless night of sleep
and wake up at two and see
what the conditions are
and make a good decision.
(dramatic music)
- [David] The worst part of
any climb is the anticipation.
Every time you go up, you
know that you're committing to
a life or death situation.
So there's no way of avoiding that kind of
psychological stress.
We've all had close calls,
we've all lost friends.
So any climb is jinxed by
self-doubt and self-criticism.
Am I too soft, or is
the mountain too hard?
- [Jack] Often conditions aren't right.
Partner problems, or, you know,
the weather's bad or whatever.
You gotta live today to climb tomorrow.
- [Mike] Brad pushed, he took risks,
but these were always calculated risks.
When someone else said,
that's really stupid,
you shouldn't do that.
Brad would figure out a way to do it,
but it would be calculated.
- [David] In 1937, just
months before Amelia Earhart
tried to execute her
around the world flight,
Earhart and her husband, George Put man,
invited Brad down to
White Plains and asked
Brad's opinion about the logistics of it.
She needed a navigator.
- [Mike] Going to a place
unknown and doing something
that no one else had done before.
He very much wanted to do this.
- [Bradford] We chatted for a weekend.
I remember, and we were going map over map
and we got to How land Isle.
It's all by itself.
A mile and a quarter long
and a quarter of a mile wide,
just a sliver out in
the middle of nothing.
I said, Amelia, you've
absolutely got to have a noise
on a specific frequency
emanating from that island.
Could be duh, duh, duh,
dah, duh, duh, duh, dah,
duh, dit, dah, dah, dah, dah, dah, dit.
And you hone on that as
you're getting close to it.
- Putnam and Earhart looked
at each other in dismay and
Putnam, according to Brad said,
then the book won't come out in time
for the Christmas sales.
- [Bradford] And I said, I'm sorry,
I don't want any part of that.
I just don't think it makes sense.
(upbeat classical music)
- Amelia Earhart and her
navigator, Fred No on an,
have come to grief in their perilous
round the world flight.
The two intrepid fliers
missed the tiny dot that is
How land island in their 25
mile hop from New Guinea
and were forced down by lack of fuel.
(dramatic orchestral music)
- [David] The perfectionism
was a virtue and a fault.
Every story he ever told he was
in the right and the others,
the doubters were in the wrong.
It's another Brad I told you so story.
- [Interviewer] Kind of
the mother of all that.
(both laughing)
(gentle acoustic music)
- [David] In 1937, Brad
wanted to fly into the
Walsh Glacier to climb
Mount Lucania, the highest
unclimbed peak in North America.
- [Bradford] Lucania was a
very tempting morsel to take.
Walter Wood had made a
serious attempt on it
the preceding year,
he got to the top of
16,000 foot Mount Steel
and made the first ascent
of that and to his horror,
found that Lucania lay
10 miles away from that
in the direction of Mount Logan.
And he just said, I honestly
don't think that anybody's
ever gonna get to the top of that Mount.
Well, nobody should ever say that.
Particularly in Life magazine. (laughing)
(pleasant music)
I've been listening to tales
about a guy called Bob Bree.
And the way he was taking supplies up to
high altitude mines.
Taking off from the Valdez mudflats
in a ski equipped airplane
with skis that he'd
put underneath it, that
he'd got stainless steel
from an old abandoned cocktail bar.
So I wrote him a letter and
told him what we wanted to do,
to fly 250 miles in with no
place to land all the way,
and land on Walsh Glacier.
And we hoped to climb Lucania
and have him fly us back out.
(film projector ticking)
I got the telegram.
Anywhere you'll ride, I'll fly, Bob Bree.
(airplane propellers spin)
(orchestral music)
- [Paul] The flying back then, I mean,
every time you went out, you
didn't know whether you were
even going to make it back.
I mean, you might have to walk, you know,
two or three weeks to make
it back, 'cause planes,
I mean, they just weren't
as reliable back then.
It was a serious endeavor.
- [Bradford] If we cracked up there,
the chances are 50/50 that they'd
never even have found the airplane.
We landed at 8,500 feet in the
spot and exactly as planned,
but it decelerated very, very fast.
I jumped out the door when it stopped
and went to my waist in slush.
None of us expected that
at that altitude in Alaska,
even in mid June, it would be slush.
There was no way he'd be able
to take that airplane home.
We couldn't even taxi it up to camp,
and left it sitting
like that for the night.
We wondered would we
ever get it out of there.
- [David] It took five days
and stomping out of runways
and throwing everything out of the plane.
We've even took a ball-peen
hammer and changed the pitch of
the propeller with it so they
could get a sharper bite.
(airplane propeller spins)
- [Bradford] Bob said, the
only thing I'm telling you guys
now is, I wouldn't come
back to this God damn
place for a million bucks.
So he gave his airplane the
gun, headed down the glacier
and there was a little bulge
there and he completely
disappeared from sight.
But we could hear this
roar in the distance.
Finally, this little
mosquito appeared in the air
heading back to the
Valdez, 250 miles away.
And we felt like a long way off ourselves.
- [David] And he barely
wobbled into the air as he
took off, leaving Brad and Bob
Bates to their own devices.
No hope of picking them up later.
We've never even flew
back to check on the guys.
(stove top hissing)
- [Freddie] Okay, eggs.
Actually there's bacon,
right under the eggs.
- [Zack] It's getting pretty cold, huh?
- [Renan] Yeah.
- [Freddie] And it seems like
I would probably have
at least a thousand feet
of chains to Espresso Gap.
So, hopefully,
1500 feet above us, it would
be a good, hard cruise.
- [Renan] Oh yeah, this is
as good as it's gonna get.
- [Narrator] The first peak
step one is the Sugar Tooth.
It's a long convoluted rock climb
with small snow sections in between.
- Keep your helmets on and
your heads down on this.
(orchestral music)
- [Renan] Nice Zack, hauling.
When you're climbing on the Sugar Tooth,
you're constantly tip-toeing
across these knife blades of
rock that can bite you at any moment.
- [Freddie] As the day got warmer and
the conditions steadily got worse,
we were forced to choose between
slogging up deep wet snow
slopes or engaging in this
really ticky-tacky rock climbing
up and around steep
towers with sharp edges.
- [Renan] Sugar Tooth.
- Sugar Tooth!
- [Renan] Good old Sugie.
- Good old Sugie.
Kind of, there packing
a little bit of a punch.
How's it look?
(dramatic music)
Ow.
Stupid idea.
Fuck you.
No slack.
(chains clinking)
- [Zack] Yeah just good
finger lock, a little higher.
- [Renan] That's a funny way to charge.
- Check fuckin' this donkey out.
- [Renan] I slipped following
Zack and the rope came
tight over a blade of rock
and nearly cut in half.
And then shortly after that,
I foolishly dropped my ice tool.
And that meant I was never
going to be secure on any of the
snow climbing from that point on.
(dramatic music)
- [Freddie] It's like this
mountain is going to kill you
because it's just going to
beat your equipment down
to the point where it fails.
- [Renan] Baking in the heat.
Instead of easily scampering
across the top of the snow,
we kept punching through to our waists,
expending tons of energy
way too early in the climb.
- [Zack] Sug' sunny!
- [Freddie] We're at the
summit of the Sugar Tooth.
Psyched about that,
but definitely a humbling
day, first day on route.
And we just slogged really hard, so.
Gotta talk to Renan and Zach
and see what they want to do.
(laughing) I think I kind of
want to like pitch the tent
and crawl in the man sack
and just try to reboot
tomorrow morning,
(laughing) but we'll see.
- [Renan] It's beautiful out.
- [Zack] That was like the main pitch
that I was worried about.
- [Renan] Yeah.
(rustling)
- [Renan] Man won and
the configuration tucked.
- [Freddie] My next.
- [Renan] So today was a
speeder or a crashed out early,
getting some good rest after
the 16 hour push from base camp
through the horrendous snow
conditions and wet rock.
So, we're gonna get up early and
get the second tooth in the morning,
hopefully continue on from there.
(energetic music)
- [Freddie] A little rock climb today
for most of like the morning.
We probably would want
to do like a siesta.
Alright, you ready for this guy?
Ah, it was so good for a while.
- [Renan] When we woke
up on that second day,
there was a lot of questions
that needed to be answered in
terms of if it was
going to be safe enough.
And if it was a responsible
decision to move on.
- [Freddie] It looks like about
20 meters of down climbing.
Does that sound good?
- [Renan] Yeah.
- [Zack] Sure.
- [Freddie] It's pretty funny.
We're like 20 hours into this mission.
- [Zack] Yeah.
- [Freddie] Renan and
I made it here in like
five or six hours.
- [Zack] Yeah.
- [Freddie] That's just the way, I mean,
I knew that was gonna be case.
- [Zack] Yeah.
- [Freddie] Yeah, I think
we can still make it happen,
but, you know.
- [Renan] We didn't use our
full reserve or anything, It's-.
- Yeah.
- [Renan] Anyway, we do it it's
definitely not going to be cas',
but there's a few factors.
- [Freddie] We can charge,
chances of pulling the whole
thing off, pretty small.
You know, that's just one more-.
- [Zack] We're a day be- we're
kind of a day behind, too.
- Almost, yeah.
- [Zack] I mean, we went with
it, we rolled it, it's cool.
- If the forecast was good.
- [Zack] I just feel like
the writing's on the wall.
- Yeah.
- It's not cut and dry to
call it, like it usually is.
- [Renan] That's the smart thing to do.
- [Freddie] Yeah.
- All right.
- [Renan] Earlier on in our
careers, we might've gone
kamikaze on it, but the more
you get out and you do these
things or lose friends to the mountains,
the more careful you are and
the better decisions you make.
So this is the way to play it safe.
Possibly have another go at it.
(somber piano music)
(upbeat piano music)
- [Freddie] The day after we
came down after that attempt,
we figured we should switch out
our equipment and try it again.
But then when we were down at base camp,
the temperatures remained
unseasonably warm.
Here comes one.
And it just was raining down
wet avalanches and rock fall
all over the lower Gorge.
Three, two, one.
(laughing)
(loud rumbling)
- [Renan] It's really unstable
right now, it's obvious.
- [Freddie] Yeah.
The party next to us when
to try a gullied climb.
And I got a really bad feeling about it.
By midday, they still hadn't come back.
And I finally decided to ski
over there a little closer and
have a look for them.
(somber music)
We found their bodies
buried in avalanche debris
at the bottom of the gully.
(helicopter whirs)
- [Zack] Now the Rangers are
in, so this is the recovery.
- [Bradford] I think it's
important to point out
that there is something
that happens to both
the brilliant climbers and the bum ones.
And that's tough luck.
I've never believed in
what I call Russian roulette climbing,
which is going into a place
where you have constant danger
over which you have no control at all.
I think one of the reasons that we're
still here and chatting
with you today is the fact
we refused to take that kind of challenge.
- [David] Brad in his whole
life never went on an expedition
led by anybody else.
He was a good guy and
he would consult you,
but he was the leader and
his decision finally stuck.
- [Bradford] On all these
trips, the trip was my idea,
and maybe I knew more about climbing.
So I was sort of the logical leader,
let's take Lucania where
Bob Bates and I were alone.
And we got along very, very well.
- [David] Brad and Bob Bates
were complete opposites.
Brad, the headstrong leader,
had to do it his way.
Bob was the nicest guy in
the world, the most generous.
Yet he had an incredible
talent to be in a ticklish
situation and to chill out and calm down.
- [John] They had all the gear,
all the food and supplies,
and they decided rather than
just hightailing it out,
that they would go ahead
and climb Mount Lucania.
- [Bradford] We could've
walked out two ways,
200 miles back into Alaska.
Or if we remembered that Walter
Wood who said Lucania was
impossible to climb had said
so from the top of Mount
Steel, and we figured
if we climbed Lucania,
we could get over the top of Mount Steel.
And we would be going back into Canada.
- [John] They'd pioneer a new style,
which I call fast and light.
Once they committed to going
over Lucania and Steel,
they stripped down radically,
they cut the floor out of their tent.
They threw away one sleeping
bag and slept head to toe.
The two of them in a single bag.
And they threw out a lot of food.
- [Bradford] We were out
for a hell of a long time.
We started at eight in the morning, it was
four in the afternoon
when we got to the top.
(orchestral music)
19,000 foot Mount Logan in one direction,
all the way down the coast to St. Elias.
The view was absolutely magnificent.
That was the first
ascent of Mount Lucania.
- [John] They were so sanguine
that Brad took what I argue
is the finest summit photo
yet taken in the far North.
It's just a stunning portrait of both
exhaustion and jubilation.
- [Bradford] But the biggest
problem we had on that trip was
not climbing Mount Lucania.
We figured that anything that
Walter Wood could get up,
we could get down.
And he told us exactly where we would find
a huge cache of food on the other side.
So we walked down for the longest set,
we were went from 14,000
feet to 16,000 feet
to get to the top of Steel.
And then from 16,000 feet,
all the way down to the head
of the Wolf Creek glacier
at 5,000 feet, all in one
day, it was an endless day.
And the next day we walked all the way
down to the cache of food.
The bears had been in the cache
and there was not one single thing left.
The bears had chewed every single can.
It was 19 miles from that
cache to the Donjeck river.
And we got to the Donjeck
river and it was in full flood.
- [John] In desperation,
they took the camera and the
notebooks and the film
and hung it on a bush
with a note saying, you know,
if you find these at least
you'll know what happened to us,
basically sort of recognizing
that their chance of survival
was getting pretty slim, perhaps none.
- [Bradford] We had two duffel
bags with all our clothing
and everything and we tied
them up real, really tight.
And we jumped into the river and
we went in as deep as we could on foot.
When we lost our footing,
we used them like life preservers.
And we swum to the other shore.
We were sitting down on a
bunch of tussocks and all of a
sudden we heard a tinkling sound.
I began to wonder if I was hearing
the bells of heaven or something.
And then all of a sudden,
a hundred yards away,
we saw a man and then another
man, and these guys said,
where in hell have you come from?
We said, we've come from Valdez, Alaska.
And they said, where were you going?
We said, we're going
any place you're going.
- [John] Fortunately,
they were able to go back
and get that camera.
But I think that Mount Lucania
expedition is one of the
most incredible stories
of drive and survival.
- [Mike] Brad and Bob Bates.
Both of those men had shrugged it off as,
well, you know, we just kinda walked out.
- [Interviewer] Did anybody
end up injured on that trip?
- [Bradford] Nobody.
Nobody got a skinned ankle
on it, everything went fine.
- [David] Brad was very proud of the fact
that in all his 13, 15 expeditions,
you know, they never lost a partner.
He never had a partner
suffer a serious accident.
But I discovered when I
wrote Brad's biography,
Brad himself had become
a pilot in his twenties.
And as far as I know, he
was a very good pilot.
- [Interviewer] Flying wasn't exactly safe
when you began flying, was it?
Ever have any narrow escapes?
- [Bradford] Well, I had one.
Way back in 1938.
- [David] 1938, he'd been
in Seattle on Lake Union.
And had taken out a float plane,
the wife of a climbing buddy
of his and another woman just
to do a routine sightseeing trip.
Perfect day in Seattle.
Brad came in, in the float plane
he'd only flown once before
and screwed up the landing.
The plane sank.
Brad and the guy,
punched out the windshield
and swam to safety.
And then dived back in to
try to rescue the two women.
They both drowned.
(somber orchestral music)
He never talked about this.
I only learned about this from extensive
research into newspaper clippings.
This was a dark, dark thing for,
especially for such a
perfectionist as Brad
to have really fucked
up and killed two women
who thought they were out on the
30 minute sightseeing flight.
He was terribly disturbed
by it the rest of his life.
It's why he never flew again.
- [Renan] Just two months
before we were supposed
to head back to Alaska,
Zack and I were in Colorado.
Spending most of our time
climbing and training together.
- [Zack] This climb means a lot to me.
I really, really want it bad.
I've never put this much time
and energy into one climb
before I've never tried
to climb this complicated.
And I made a lot of sacrifices
to try something like this.
Right now, I'm living in a good friend's
basement in Boulder, Colorado,
and I'm recently single after
an eight year relationship.
We had a really amazing
relationship for a long time.
And the stress of me traveling
and climbing became too
great on that relationship.
And the reality of really
close friends of ours
dying played a huge part of it I think,
because it made her worst
nightmares a reality.
And so the idea of something
like that happening to me
and you know, me putting
myself in those situations
was too much for her.
And I can't blame her for that.
(dramatic music)
- [Nurse] I want you to
squeeze my fingers, Okay?
Good.
- [Zack] Two months before we
were due to leave for Alaska,
for another attempt on the Moose's Tooth,
Renan was filming some
professional skiers in the Tetons.
- [Nurse] Open your mouth for me,
make sure you don't have
any broken teeth, good.
- [Zack] Catches an edge,
tumbles down the mountain,
over a cliff band and lands on his head.
(radio plays indistinctly)
We're lucky as partners
we're able to get them
down to the base of the mountain and
on a life flight to
advanced medical support.
- [Paramedic] One, two, three.
- [Zack] The way I
first heard about it was
an hysterical phone call
from Renan's girlfriend.
That was like basically
Renan's dead or is, you know,
going to be quadriplegic
for the rest of his life.
And I was at work and so
I just threw down whatever
I was doing and drove
over to their house and
tried to, you know, get the details.
- [Freddie] He had a
depressed skull fracture,
broken two vertebrae and
severed the one of the two
vertebral arteries that supply
blood flow to the brain.
(speaking indistinctly)
- Headed to the neurosurgeon,
realize that
this'll probably work out, but
it does hurt me pretty deeply
to not to be involved in
all the projects that
are going on, especially
the Tooth Traverse, because
that's something that you put,
it's something that we put
three years of time into.
And after everyone said
it couldn't be done,
(walkie talkie sounds intermediately)
We solved a few of the major
problems and showed that it was
possible last year and right now that's,
that was the one thing.
I really want it, so.
It's tough.
(somber piano music)
- [Freddie] When it happened
I figured the climb was over,
at least for that year.
I mean, the question was
were we gonna go without him?
- [Renan] We have loved ones back home
that I'm sure would be destroyed
if we lost our life in the mountains.
I can only imagine what
my funeral would be like.
It's about five months later,
technically I'm still healing
a broken neck in two places,
two vertebrae, like right
in my spinal column.
And I can touch my head
and feel where the skull is
still tender from having it
sliced open for brain surgery,
Getting injured just before
we had to leave on the trip
was really devastating.
And I knew it was going to be
really hard for them to deal
with the fact that I
was out of commission.
- [Freddie] Renan's at home
with his neck immobilized
in a brace and he's
Skyping with me every day,
talking about, you know,
we're going to go back to
the Tooth Traverse next year.
So, so we waited.
- [Chiropractor] And on
this side, you can see
the needle swing.
(grunts)
I gotta get down lower.
- [Renan] I've worked
really hard to recover
as fast as I have.
I just been sitting for so long.
I need to go out and push myself and be
in the mountains and create.
(gentle music)
As a professional climber,
I have these competing priorities.
First I wanted to climb in the
Himalaya with my North Face
team and then go back to the
Tooth Traverse in the spring.
When I thought the conditions
were gonna be pretty good.
This didn't sit well with Zack.
He wanted to get back to
Alaska as soon as possible.
- [Zack] Renan has made
an incredible recovery
and by some kind of miracle,
the guy was going to be able to climb.
You know, I said, let's
go try this thing again.
You know, like we've talked
about going in the fall before.
Let's, why not.
But he made another
choice, which is great.
You know, like his other
project is super rad
and I'm sure they'll succeed.
Those guys are professional climbers
who get to go on big trips.
So those guys have a different climbing
experience than I have.
My last Alpine climbing
trip was a two month trip.
It's the longest expedition
I've ever been on,
down in Argentina.
Two months,
pretty much spent all the money I had
and I climbed one day and with no summit.
So that was a bit hard, you know,
to sacrifice the time and
energy and money that I put
towards it, it is a big thing to me.
To me the filming has
just become a distraction
and taking away from the
actual experience of climbing.
I'm just at this tipping
point where the mountains are
taking more than they're giving.
Hanging Christmas lights,
painting out for a living.
Yeah. (laughs)
- [Camera Man] Pretty crazy.
- It's a weird way to make
a living, but it works.
So I made the decision
to bow out of the climb.
We created this monster (engine starts up)
And I just hope they
finish the fucking thing.
Even if I can't be there,
I just want it done.
- [Renan] I almost lost
everything in my accident.
People always ask me, why do you do it?
I just wanted to use the
chance that I was given
to show that there's this
joyous side of climbing.
(gentle piano music)
- [Bradford] We've added a
lot to opening people's eyes
towards the beauty of these places
and making it easier if you're
a climber to find new routes.
The things that you
remember about these trips
are people, not things.
Being with these wonderful people.
- Yeah, that was a sharp spin.
(screaming)
- [Freddie] When you're on an
expedition, most of the time,
it doesn't feel like
you're risking your life.
It feels like you're on
this incredible journey to
explore the landscape.
Hello, beautiful wife.
(dramatic orchestral music)
- [Janet] Yeah, you good?
- [Freddie] I'm actually good, what a day.
- I always say I don't care about summits,
but really does feel good.
- [Bradford] I'm going to tell
you the most important thing
in my whole life- Barbara.
That's the best step I ever
took from the day I was born
until this afternoon.
- [Barbara] Brad never talked
about mountain climbing
when we got engaged.
But when we were first married,
I found myself on my way to
Mount Birther in South Eastern Alaska.
- [Interviewer] Well,
why did you think Barbara
was up for this?
I mean most people would not-.
- Just because I think Barbara's terrific,
and she still is.
- [Barbara] I don't think he had any idea
whether I was up to it or
not, he just wanted me to go.
- [Bradford] That was the first
time Barbara had ever done
anything of this sort and she
rushed right up and did it
without the slightest difficult.
- [Interviewer] In '47,
you became the first woman
to climb McKinley.
- Yes.
- [Interviewer] And that
was a long, long expedition.
- Yes, three months.
- [Interviewer] Three months?
- [Barbara] Three months, because we were
making a map, making a movie.
(twangy guitar music)
When we got near the
top, I was in the middle,
Shorty Lang said, okay,
Barbara, now you go first.
And I said, oh no, no, no.
We just go in the order
we're in, of course.
And he said, don't you realize you're the
first woman to get to
the top of this place?
And I said, oh, heck,
who cares about that?
I didn't think the world cared about
a woman getting to the top.
Never done it if I knew it
was gonna be such a fuss.
Anyway, so I got to the top.
And then Brad came up and joined us.
(orchestral music)
- [Bradford] It's been wonderful for me
over the years to have a
wonderful partner like Barbara,
all the way through this stuff.
- [Mike] To sort of sum
Brad up is really hard.
He was an educator, a scientist, explorer.
But he would always land on the education
because no matter what
he did, he educated.
- [Bradford] The thing
that made the climb fun
was the fact we were
trying to create something
that would share the thrill of discovery.
This sharing doesn't just apply to climbing.
It also applies to our Museum of Science.
- [John] The Museum of Science.
When he took it over, it
was this derelict old attic
of a junk heap in South Boston.
Brad absolutely transformed it into the,
one of the great teaching
museums in the world.
And he actually had said
often that was the thing
he wanted to be remembered for,
above and beyond the
climbing and the photography.
- [Kurt] Photography was
always, I think in second place
to his idea of scientific adventure.
Not just adventure, but
scientific adventure.
- [John] There are parallels
amongst scientific exploration
and human exploration.
All of it comes down to
our drive to want to know
or want to see new places.
Flying on the Space Shuttle is just
an amazing place to do photography.
From space, you can
see thousands of miles.
2009, you know, Brad had just
passed away two years earlier.
The American Alpine club
offered to let me take Brad's
camera, bringing Brad's legacy
to the next generation of
aerial photography to space.
Truly incredible because
that's the camera that he took
on his Mount Lucania expedition.
- [Bradford] I had quite
a number of climbs,
sort of in my hip pocket that I began
parceling out one by one.
I just sort of sit and wait
and see how they did it.
And I've had a lot of fun out of that,
particularly after I got old enough.
So I wasn't doing these
wonderful climbs myself.
- [David] When I was a
undergraduate at Harvard,
you freely gave of all your
advice about Alaska, you let us-.
- [Bradford] Yeah.
- [David] You've played this
role with an extraordinary
number of young climbers.
You can take Brad's pictures and seek out
your next great expedition on them.
- [Jack] A mentor is a hero of generosity.
You know, Brad was a lot of things,
but he was super generous.
And I think, you know, it
wasn't just my experience
that was, you know, hundreds
of people's experience.
He would send us photograph,
you know, unsolicited.
What do you think about this?
- [Mike] I think his
photography will last a
really long time, but to us climbers,
I think what matters is not
that he did the hardest climbs
ever it's that he climbed remote,
arduous, exhausting peaks.
And he encouraged many other generations,
including mine, to seek out
the challenges that were beyond
him and people like Freddie and Renan
are still pursuing the
Washburn challenges.
- [Freddie] How did you describe
the snow conditions, man?
- [Man In Blue Coat] The
gorge, we got probably a foot.
- [Freddie] Uh huh.
- And at the mountain it looked like
there was at least two and a half.
- [Freddie] Yeah, yeah.
- Yeah, a foot in the last couple days.
And then we had a storm before
that too, then had a couple.
It's the eye deep to nipple
deep snow wallowing, yep,
unconsolidated wallowing.
- [Man In Blue Coat] Yeah,
every single aspect I'd been on
has been pretty miserable snow conditions.
- Yeah, cool.
They had just had the biggest
snow storm of the year
the week before we arrived.
The mountains were covered
in six feet of new snow.
And everyone we met in Talkeetna
warned us that it was a really bad time.
- [Renan] We'd waited for two
years for another crack at
the Traverse, but it wasn't
even about the climb anymore.
We wanted to do something
in the true spirit of Brad
to come back with something to share.
It's the 14th, three o'clock
and we're launching.
- [Freddie] And we're launching.
We get to do it with only (indistinct).
- [Paul] It's good to be a
part of something that has a
lot of pieces that you
have to connect together.
There are certain climbers,
like they have a plutonium rod,
you know, just burning inside of them.
It's not just going up and
getting something done.
They're tying their whole
life into the whole climb.
(phone ringing)
(sighs)
- [Renan] Can you breath
out a big cold breath here?
The rumors were correct and the conditions
were very snowy and the going was slow.
- [Freddie] The thing was, might've taken
15 or 20 minutes longer
working twice as hard.
But I still got to the top of the pitch.
It set a little light
off in my head, and I,
I realized like, maybe
we can do this thing.
We took it one pitch at a time.
And we went back to our old bivy from 2010
at the top of the Sugar Tooth.
- [Renan] We're at our
bivy overlooking Denali
and climbed for about 12 hours today.
And even though it's
still blazing sun out,
I'm going to try to get some rest.
That's the update.
(thud)
- [Freddie] Ah!
- [Renan] What's going
on over there, Freddie?
- Digging for buried treasure.
We found a bag of snacks
left from the attempt
two years ago.
Not exactly a street legal maneuver, but
this buys us another two days of climbing,
which we may need.
Day two, we started up the
South Ridge of the eye tooth.
The climbing got a lot steeper
and the conditions are challenging enough.
We have to pitch it out and
stop and belay each other.
It takes us all day to get to
the summit of the eye tooth.
Day three, there was a
segment of unclimbed ridge
connecting the eye tooth
to the bear's tooth.
- [Renan] This is deep Alaskan
cornice ridge climbing,
huge waves that are 200 feet tall.
These waves of snow.
And you don't want to climb
on the top of the wave
because the wave could collapse.
And we've had friends die,
not knowing where the
point is on the wave,
where you can actually be.
You're tiptoeing on the
backside of the wave
for what seems like a mile.
That was pretty real.
We've been on the summit all day.
Now it's just a matter of weather,
but we're looking really good.
- [Freddie] We knew if we could
only make it to the summit
of the bear's tooth, we'd be halfway home.
(helicopter whirs)
(man indistinctly speaking on radio)
- [Renan] I think first you
see it from the ridge line.
And then you see Denali,
we can kind of just be
charging up the snow
towards the summit.
- [Paul] All right, we'll
see you in a little bit.
- [Renan] Okay, awesome.
Thanks Paul.
- [Paul] They're coming.
- There's a lot riding on the next hour.
(upbeat orchestral music)
(radio buzzes)
- [Bradford] Up the long
delirious burning blue,
I've topped the wind swept
heights with easy grace.
Where never Lark or even Eagle flew.
And while his silent lifting mind,
I've trod the high
under-trespassed sanctity of space.
Whip out my hand and
touch the face of God.
(orchestral music)
(radio buzzes)
- [Renan] Making it across
that final section of ridge
onto the summit of the
bear's tooth was like
unlocking the last piece of the puzzle.
We were on the center
of the Tooth Traverse
in the most beautiful part of it.
For us, it was just this fleeting moment
in our concept of how long we
were toiling on this climb.
(triumphant orchestral music)
- [Freddie] We figured when we reached the
South face of the Moose's
Tooth, we'd be on easy street
because we had already
climbed that section.
Nice, Renan!
Without Zack there, those pitches felt
way harder than we remembered.
There was a big snow field
that was dripping water
down on this five, 11 slab traverse.
And Renan had to tiptoe across
it doing really precise,
insecure climbing.
That was like the ultimate little.
- Yes, Zack, I almost died on the pitch
you pranced up in 20 minutes.
(laughing)
Once I got through the slab,
Freddie led us through the Bleeder pitch
towards the summit of the moose.
(heavy breathing)
- Denali looks cool.
Renan and I realized that, here we are,
and we're just about out of food and
we pretty much had no
choice, but to continue on.
It took us all night to get across the
summit ridge of the Moose's tooth.
- [Renan] Been going for almost 24 hours.
(yelling in distance)
We've done the entire Tooth Traverse.
Now we're just trying
to finish up the moose.
- [Freddie] Fuck yeah!
By 6:00 AM the next morning
we were stopping for another
quick rest on the West
summit of the Moose's tooth.
Before we began repelling
off the side of the mountain.
- [Renan] Hour 30 probably of the push.
It's kind of this unique feeling.
- [Freddie] Dreaming.
- Yeah, it's like a hallucination
without hallucinogens,
but you're doing things
where one wrong step,
you could die.
So it's even more trippy.
You just got to try to
keep yourself together.
Hour after hour.
And we probably have six hours to go.
- [Freddie] The last
challenge of the climb was
descending this gully down to the glacier
at the bottom of the gorge
and gully's are dangerous.
And we were going into this
one at the worst possible time.
It was 4:00 PM in the afternoon.
We had been on the go
for 30 some odd hours.
And all the circumstances were pointing to
this being a bad call,
but we had to get down.
We didn't think it'd take us too long.
And I realized how soft it was
at that hour of the day and
sat down and was seated past Renan
as he's really intensely
kicking steps down.
- [Renan] There could have
been this giant crevasse
down there to eat us both up.
But after he committed, of course,
I was going to do the same.
And we were just sliding like little kids.
(orchestral music)
(chains clinking)
- [Freddie] Nice job!
- [Renan] The first thing
we did was we called Zack.
He was excited for us.
- [Freddie] All right, man!
Hang loose.
- [Renan] And he knew that
he was this big driving force
for the Tooth Traverse overall.
- [Freddie] The thing I'll
remember more than any other
detail of the climb was how it felt
when we returned to base camp.
We just hung out in the
tent, listening to music,
the door wide open,
looking out on the skyline
we had just walked across.
By all rights, we should
have been exhausted
and should've fallen asleep immediately,
but we felt more energized than ever.
Those moments come so rarely.
We didn't want it to end.
(orchestral music)
(music ends suddenly)
- [David] Brad's favorite quotations,
which were touchstones for
him, one is from Aristotle-
quote, the search for truth-.
- [Brad And David Simultaneously]
Is in one way hard-.
- [Bradford] And in another easy,
for it is evident that
no one of us can ever-.
- [Renan] Master it fully.
- [Freddie] Or use it wholly.
Each one of us-.
- [Renan] Adds to our understanding-.
- [Bradford] Of the world around us.
- [All] And from all the facts assembled-.
- [Renan] Arises a certain grandeur.
- [Freddie] Arises a certain grandeur.
- [Bradford] Arises a certain grandeur.
(orchestral music)
(electronic music)
(twangy guitar music)