Messner (2012) - full transcript

Gods sentenced Sisyphus lift a huge stone on the top of the mountain, where this lump always raining down. They had reason to believe that there is no punishment worse than useless and hopeless labor.

Albert Camus
"The Myth of Sisyphus"

Amazing climber. Great technique.

Messner - is complex and difficult personality.

Smart and fearless.

We grew up in a valley surrounded by high mountains chain.
And we were wondering what is behind them.

Reinhold Messner is the strongest climber
today.

Weathered the storm at a temperature of -40 ° C.

Incredibly expressive.

We had no idea about the larger world and civilization.
Villnoss - a small rural hamlet.

With big ambitions ...



The only witness ...

Does not rise above 8000!

I constantly received the command "top", and never have
disobeyed, fostering a sense of resistance.

My brother Gunther and I were very close,
because since childhood went together to the mountains.

During the ascent you share your fears,
doubts, and, at the same euphoria.

This is something that we strongly united for life.

TRUST

In 1965 we were the first in the Western Alps.
I knew only about the mountains in books.

In Argentiere we felt pretty confident on ice.
But did not know how to be above 4000 meters.

However, we moved to the north wall of Courtes.
And it passed, shrouded in fog.

At the shelter doubted our success
but we did not care.

Then we went to the north wall of the peak Triolet,
and also made it.

Host shelter said: "You have a good speed.
You can climb the north face of Droites ".

We were 19-20 years old, and we did not think



at the time the wall of ice and rock
more difficult in the world..

We would of course, but we were afraid.
Fear holds us together.

Sooner or later, we would come up with this idea.

It is time, I close.

Reinhold, still there?
Take this bag.

Our father was strict.
Perhaps a bit too harsh.

And my mother did her best to
balance its severity sympathy

its uncertainty, which can affect children
-
strong maternal love.

We had 9 children, life was difficult.

Are you kidding me?
Hi! I'm leaving. Take care of yourself. See you later.

Home, his mother was just a source of warmth and comfort,

and, unlike his father,
in a sense, in solidarity with the children.

At the same time she had high hopes
towards children, and including Reinhold.

So, for Reinhold it was very hard to
disappoint our mother.

In children 6 children lived.
Overall life was in the kitchen.

Near the mother was always crying baby.
In which case, the younger children ran to her.

In communion we stuck
relatively strict rules in some way.

I would say that we raised each other.
Senior educated younger.

In this environment, children are trying to impose their views, find their own way.

And I think that such conditions
determine who you will be in the future.

During the summer parents rented alpine
pastures for a few weeks, it was a big success for us.

Then we were 5-6 years
and for us it was a kind of vacation in the mountains.

Something where the pastures lay large boulders,
which we could climb under the supervision of his father.

He taught us to always use
3 points of contact when climbing a cliff.

Upstairs you can freely walk and play.
And there were no rules.

Downstairs there was a church in which we went
on Sundays. And the father-abbot.

And, of course, our father became much
more bearable here than in the valley.

Neighbors knew everything that happens in the area.

Life in this small community,
seemed like a prison.

Up here, it was the opposite - complete freedom.

A basic principle of life - anarchy.

REBELLION

"When all the major peaks in the European Alps
were conquered by man

his gaze upward,

rushed to distant lands,
where giant mountains towering to the sky,

reflecting the rays of the sun through the clouds.

One of them was Albert Frederick Mummery.

In 1895 he made the first attempt to
ascent Nanga Parbat.

He died in an avalanche and became the first victim of this peak,
as well as the Himalayas. "

Reinhold Reinhold, get up!

My first ascent was the rise
the highest point of the array Geisler, 3025 meters.

Dad waits.

We had no idea what awaited us,
and that had to be done.

I felt, at least concern.
My father wanted to go pretty big circle.

Wait there.
Now right and continue along the path.

At the time I was 5 years old,
and it was my biggest climbing,

given the relationship between the boy and the mountain.
Everest, I was already an adult.

Where the base camp is at 3300 meters below the summit,
and climbing takes place a few weeks or months.

Wait, do not hurry. We have enough time.
Come with me.

Father went ahead.
And I think that we were so relaxed.

Left and right towering rock walls.

It scared me at that moment.

Now look carefully.
Helmut can help.

In fact, I think
that for me (as the Eiger for Siegfried)

it was a rite of passage -
Drag on a vast array of Geisler.

"Drag" - it was just my case,
because I was afraid of heights.

I realized that climbing - is not a hobby for me.

Straight to the top. For Helmut.

It was very difficult.
Of course, my father encouraged us when we started
complain.

Next, Reinhold.

I'd love to go off.
Understanding came much later.

I was very proud. Maybe the people
who were at the top, clapped on the shoulder,
praised

and marveled at the fact that children have climbed so high. But the most vivid memories of the panorama.

We saw the Central Alps - mountains, glaciers and
deep valleys.

The most impressive was the peak Sass Rigais.

My father knew all the peaks in the Dolomites:
Sass, Marmolada, Civetta, Antelao.

Photos of the Dolomites
cause I have childhood memories.

After returning from the pasture, it was difficult
present, I was really there.

I could not believe that so exalted.

House we had an aviary, but the father he had never
engaged - this was 9 children.

In total we had 500-600 birds.

We had to carry food and water,
collect eggs and clean the gunk.

And kill chickens, naturally.

Over the weekend, we cleaned and sold 70-80 chickens.

Gunther!

At heart, my father was always afraid of defeat.

His impotence or the inability to do anything

always took the form of some kind of aggression.

He beat Gunther, and it brought us together.
We kids thought it unfair.

And it really was not fair.
What can I say?

This story is an example of our upbringing.

So we were growing up, becoming more motivated.

Father was a man ...

cool but a little and affectionate.
And in some ways, even humorous.

But he could not afford

have a sense of tenderness.
At least, not in relation to children.

Father ... who punishes and criticizes.

Father, who, unable to "give."

And, of course, the father,
which is always the opposite view.

We early manhood.
Ability to self-defense and resistance

became part of my identity for a lifetime.

That is, if you feel resistance,
then try to fight it. In the mountains the same thing.

It is clear that the mountains for me was a chance for salvation.

Then these rocks, especially in the Dolomites Geisler, become for us a place where you can escape for a while.

When we were 12-13 years old,
most of the year we spent in a boarding school.

At least 9 months,
we held in the Episcopal Seminary in Tyrol

preparing to become priests.

Comes to us mainly mother.
Father seems to come once.

Of course, was very restrictive
and appropriately oriented discipline.

It may thus be
father tried to increase its influence on us.

I can only say that it was very difficult,

I and all the forces opposed to the regime,

this form of the destruction of the individual,
destruction of individuality.

I did not like to talk about their adventures at school,

because they are different things. A completely different world.

Once I climbed the north face of the Matterhorn.
It took longer than planned.

When I walked into the classroom, a teacher of German, who had a liking to me,

came up and asked what I was doing.
Although everyone knew which route I climbed.

He wanted to do me a favor with his authority.

I did not say anything.
Then he wrote something in my notebook.

Get her back, I went to his place,
signed and returned to him.

The teacher was furious and vowed
I do not pass the exam.

I remember that my father strongly rebuked Reinhold.

I remember that because of Reinhold's anger or despair

crying in the kitchen while her mother tried to reassure her father.

I was sure that pass the exam. It was autumn.

Shortly before the new exam
we went to a different route.

We were not lucky - there was too much ice.
And instead of one day climbing took two full days.

Returned the night before the exam.
Sore fingers, the skin on the tips erased.

The teacher said: "You climb again!"

I replied, "And why not?
This is only my problem and draw more. "

Then I called the director, and I said to him:

"I do not need this school. I pass the exam
independently.
And if you do not succeed, try again ".

My father was, I would say, in a rage.

He wanted to humiliate Reinhold.

And I have the impression that if it is
succeeded.

On the same day I left home, and never
returned.
Now I had to earn a living.

Yuval Castle. Years later.

I felt a calm in the valley,
and lived in Villnoss to 40 years.

And then moved into the castle.

My father thought it a waste of money:
"From the castle alone costs. For what purpose does it serve?"

Later I learned that he had never been there
and never saw the castle.

"You're crazy!"
That was the way my father.

Reinhold is always ready to make a riot.
It is impossible to imagine without such
"Insurrection."

Maybe this is due to unconscious Dilema

between the desire to obey his father
and the inability to obey him.

Rebellion - is part of Reinhold.

My father never knew that Reinhold

was your vision and how we achieve it.

Reinhold lives always thought: "It is possible."

It can be said, his motto is: "It's possible do it. "

I got a lot more knowledge of climbing,
than at school or university.

In addition, there is a possibility of my total
participation.

My ability to concentrate
and abstracting from the rest

came with ascents and not during their studies.

I looked at this hobby and wondered:
"Where is the fun?"

For Reinhold and Gunther was there
something that was more important than anything else.

What we did was a little crazy.
We walked there, risking their lives.

The dispute between the possible and the impossible.
The boundary between success and failure.

There are some links that is even stronger than family ties. So we have had with Gunther.

First, on the north wall of the Ortler, we realized
did something that no one could do.

At least a narrow family.

But still, we could not tell anyone about this.
In the mountains, we were in another world.

- Gunter would like to go with us.
- Yeah, if I was invited ....

- Gunther, where his mother?
- It is.

- Are you going to Droites?
- Maybe.

- Take care of yourself, Gunther. Childcare.
- Sit down, we have a long road ahead to Chamonix.

On this trip, my father first told me about the war.

He fought in Russia,
chosen because Germany in 1939

Besides his father, 86% of the inhabitants of South Tyrol
were willing to stand under the banner of the Third Reich.

They became the Germans and had to emigrate.
There was talk of moving to the Crimea and the Carpathians.

Those who refused were, of course, the Italians.

Even South Tyrolean names had to be changed.

Instead, Joseph was Giuseppe now.
This annoyed people.

The father appeared in children between 1943 and 1950,
and he chose untranslatable names.

Reinhold name is not translated.
And Helmut too, and Waltraud.

He managed to get a translator
in the service of the German army ranks.

It was clear that this was because

that he shared the views of the Third Reich.

I wanted our family more open communication.

We grew up "within four walls"
having no ideas about a very different world.

In the mountains flourished anarchy.

Photos appeared, expressing protest.

We stopped waving flags.
Mountaineering was no longer "national dimension".

I was one of the first
who completely rejected this aspect of mountaineering.

Of course, there were many critics
from the 'old' climbers and conservatives.

But it did not affect me not, and do not
interested.

MORALE

In 1969, having already had the experience of rock and ice routes. I went to France.

Were invited to the best European climbers.

I went to Argentiere, having in mind a vague idea
solo passage on any wall.

DROITES
North Face, 4000 meters.

The older and more experienced climber,
who could not make something,

the more he defended the view
that it is impossible to pass such a route.

So I decided to intervene and declare
that this position has nothing to do with morality.

Since then, I openly say
What if I decided something, then I'm ready to go even against all.

They do not need me. And I have them too.
I will not let anyone tell me how to go the route.

In 1969, when he arrived at the shelter,
it became apparent that he was going to Droites.

My brother then asked: "Droites?"
He replied: "Yes."

Where is your brother?
You're going to climb it alone?

Crazy!

Reinhold was a man not of this world.
1969 was a year after the events of May 1968 in
France.

Although our shelter and was not a commune,
but young people wore long hair. That was cool.

Reinhold was somewhat different.
He loved solitude.

The news spread quickly,
though he asked us not to do so.

But it was impossible.
The plan was too absurd.

North Face Droites.

Did you hear that?
He said so. Exactly.

- It's impossible.
- Look in the book.

Extinguish the light. Unbelievable.

- It says here ...
- What?

"The North Face Droites,
1000 meters in height, 500 m in width

Despite its beauty, it was passed last
in the list of major ice-rock walls.

Given the danger of falling rock and ice,
She is undoubtedly one of the biggest problems in the Alps. "

- Is it already passed?
- Let's see.

It says that the first team took 5 days
second team - two.

And he wants to pass it in one day? Solo?
Crazy.

It is impossible, no doubt.
The route is very difficult.

To make the ascent of the North Face,
need to get up at 2:00 in the morning.

Reinhold ... already 3:00.

One of the difficulties solo ascent of Droites - start.
Because in the dark scary climb up the wall.

We all know what can happen.

I think Gunter just wanted to avoid it.
Considered too risky, and said that I die.

July 11, 1969
4:00 am

I did not want to know the parents and brothers,
I went to this difficult route one.

- Well, I went.
- Good luck, Reinhold.

In solo ascents no margin for error.
Any of these can be fatal.

When I climb the route, all the fears go away.

It remains only to full concentration
the continuous movement of arms and legs.

It gives me a sense of security.

If you do not throw away everything including moral issues -
in my case it's parents and his brothers,

worried that I'm doing something incredible -
you do this, you can not.

I see only a few centimeters
ice and snow in front of him.

There is a constant alternation: stable position - move up.
So there is a flow of energy.

Maybe climbing develop this condition fluidity
because I'm moving to full concentration.

Even a small stone can hit on the finger so that you
no longer able to work hand and have to go the route.

But if we move quickly, the chances of getting hit rock
much less than the 3-5 day ascent.

When he reached the top, I thought, "What a fool!
He succeeded, but he was not exactly in my mind. "

I saw how he reached the top
in record time - about 12 and a half hours.

We realized that there was something completely new.

First we saw that someone climbs well,
making continuous motion strange ice ax.

It was incredible, I was really surprised.

This moment has affected all of my generation!

The next day we went to the Pic du Midi,
and went up on the new route in one day.

On the same day we returned to the shelter Argentiere,
and passed Dagland.

We went to the Grandes Jorasses and wanted to go
the north wall of the new route.

But then climbing conditions
did not allow a large number of routes.

Marmolada
The south wall, the Dolomites, 3343 m

returned in perfect condition only in 1969.

When you do not have a partner, I walked one.
On the limits of the possible for the time.

Civetta, The North Face, the Dolomites, 3220 meters
-
But here I felt relatively safe.

By the end of the summer I was in great shape,
like never before.

At the time, I could not imagine myself
without climbing.

Then there was the expedition to Nanga Parbat,
held by the success

on the north wall Droites.
But it was another dimension.

RESPONSIBILITY

I still remember very well how we wished

that invited Reinhold and Günther - no.

- Mom
- Thank you.

Gunther, this is for you. Gift.

- Thank you, what is it?
- Open it and see.

Nanga Parbat? Invitation for me?

Wow, great!

Of course, he was delighted.

And do not feel slighted, as has happened before.

Once I asked my brother to invite
with support from our father,

Herligkoffer expedition leader,
using his position

and numerous contacts in Pakistan
able to issue an invitation to Gunther.

I gave up shortly before the start of the expedition,
and instead I took Gunther.

It was a hasty decision
received too late. That's my fault.

Gunther was not considered as an alternate member
expedition. And yet he went, which was not very good.

German Himalayan expedition to Nanga Parbat

We had big ambitions, despite the unsuccessful
German attempts of strongest climbers in his time.

Now it's our turn
and we were a young team.

We would like to say:
"They failed, but we were able to."

Nanga Parbat
Pakistan, 8125 meters

We knew about the act Hermann Buhl on Nanga Parbat
and his statement that the Rupal Face
impassable.

But after his ascent took 17 years.
We carried with it a new era.

Large Rupal Face -
is the true face of Nanga Parbat.

Nanga Parbat, which is considered in the German-speaking regions
one of the most important eight-thousanders,

with the highest wall in the world, meant for us
Youth the highest goal to be achieved.

It was a real challenge
solve this problem climbing.

If I was invited to the normal route
Everest, I would not be interested.

In short, the aim of the expedition was the idea
so at least someone reached the top. No matter who.

In this sense, the expedition was quite archaic.
Something in the style of the 1930s.

- We promise ...
- We promise ...

- Fight for the impregnable top of our planet,
- Fight for the impregnable top of our planet,

- In honor of climbers
- In honor of climbers

- In honor of our country.
- In honor of our country.

- Long live our expedition!
- Hooray! Hooray! Hooray!

Leader of the expedition, which was more like
Deputy on general issues, knew nothing about mountaineering which caused some difficulties in the team.

Herligkofferu able to separate almost all
teammates:
Chaim and Cui, Saler and Scholes, for example.

But we could not. I said:
"Or my brother and I go together, or nowhere at all
go ".

Nanga Parbat we raised the topic
about the future of climbing school

as an extension of a professional career.

We never discussed this idea before.
But Nanga Parbat all changed

because we saw who these famous
Gentlemen, participated in the expedition.

We looked there young and modest,
but quickly realized that if they can, and we will too.

Especially when it comes to respect for mother nature.

We were informed that Messner brothers and Gerhard Baur rise today in Camp 5,

and the next day, weather permitting,

they're going to hang fixed ropes
for the assault on the summit.

They will wait for a signal in the form of red missiles
or descend to Camp 4.

I submit that report Herligkoffera - full
fiction.

Something was brewing in the air. It is logical.

Nanga Parbat 70
The case of the missile

Version Herligkoffera
differs from the version 7 of the expedition participants.

Weather flawless. And Reinhold Messner
should be the first to climb to the top.

The situation was clear.
The weather was getting worse, fired red
rocket.

The day before, I told your offer on the radio:
"If the weather turned bad, I'll go by myself."

That was the plan of my brother, who understood
I will only answer for myself.

One person can react faster.
I felt comfortable at a height of 6000 meters.

After the Red Rocket was released,
I walked toward the gully Merkle.

The steepest part of the gully is almost vertical.

And then, at the end of the gully Merkle,
appearance of my brother has created a situation

and I could not imagine.
It is not included in the plans.

I discussed with them the danger of our situation.
Nevertheless, we decided

that up to the top, we will not talk
possible options for the descent.

Rope is a must in the mountains.
If one breaks down, another delay it.

My brother knew what climbing,
but he did not go without insurance. This was a problem.

To catch up with me, he scored 1,000 meters very
quickly.
This led to the emergence of symptoms of altitude sickness.

He followed me, because I wanted to
share the joy of reaching the top.

While Hubert, Siegfried and I were in Switzerland.
Grazed cows.

And I remember that ...

once we got a telegram to his father.

At the top, I realized that we were trapped.
There was no shelter, and no one was going to
rise to us.

We could not go back on the Rupal Face,
because his brother would probably broke somewhere.

Thus, contrary to common sense,
they began to descend the western slope of the mountain

We had to seek shelter and go down to the gully
Merkle,
where was the only chance to camp dokrichatsya 5.

We stopped at an altitude of 7800 meters.
There was no shelter.

All night we sat on the shelf
with nothing but their own clothes.

In the morning I saw that the wall beneath us was vertical.

I was terrified. Go down without a rope
there was no way.

Cui appearance and Scholes meant only one thing:
they heard our cries for help and carried the rope.

I could not have imagined that they were going to the top.

And when they tried to approach us
I realized that they were not here for the sake of our salvation.

So, we are left by themselves.
They just could not get up to us.

I clung to the bizarre idea

that Gunther is not dead, but simply went into isolation.

This could be, and quite like it.
He always strove to loneliness.

I thought it was a good opportunity
for him to escape from civilization.

We had to go down.
If Mummery could rise in 1895

then we will go down,
despite our weak state.

The descent down the other side of the mountain took us 2 days.

Complicating the situation is a large number of cracks
and huge seracs.

I waited until he comes, and said:
"I'll see how to get around these cracks."

When I realized that Gunther was
far behind, then turned back.

In the mountains, where you can see and hear the partner ...
Difficult to understand that there was no contact.

Not having a rope, you can easily lose each other.

The telegram read:

"Gunther died.

Reinhold alive. "

Only these two proposals.

We did not understand how a brother could lose a brother?

On the climbs in the Alps,
we said that we will never die.

Of course, it was quite naive,
but we felt then.

Gunther!

So I was left alone on the edge of the world,
not knowing what to do.

My best partner, my brother ...

with whom we have so much to do ...
It was totally unexpected.

I felt duty to return home
and tell our parents what happened.

I know that it was very difficult
back without Gunther.

We have always cared about the senior Bush.

I think my father would always blame Reinhold is
that he gave his brother.

Mother worried the most,
but the pain was common.

Avalanche buried Guenther Messner on Nanga Parbat.

Guenther Messner
05.18.1946 - 06.29.1970

Guenther Messner died on Nanga Parbat.

Due to reports, which began to appear in the press
any questions about

what actually happened with Gunther,
and why he did not stop in the gully Merkle.

My parents, brothers and sisters, too, doubted
no account of what happened.

Possibly death ...
this emptiness that leaves death

was for him ...

We can say,
that he was confronted with his own vulnerability.

Mother was a very positive person.

She could cope psychologically with all
problems

thanks to his eternal optimism.

In my opinion, the story of Nanga Parbat
radically changed Reinhold.

I just knew he had to leave the high life

and follow the path
that we have always dreamed of with Gunther.

Live backpacking and adventure seeking.
That such was our plan.

And my life has become so extreme,
that we could not have dreamed.

After Nanga Parbat,
Reinhold was taken to hospital in Innsbruck.

He was well known, thanks to his climbing.
And I visited him in the hospital.

Then we talked about future plans.
In 1972, we received permission to Manaslu.

Reinhold said:
"If I am cured legs, I in team".

This time it was a small group
Experienced climbers from Tyrol region.

Leader was Wolfgang Nairts,
the same age as us.

Manaslu
Nepal, 8163 meters

Honestly, for me this offer
was a surprise, as it is sometimes

or telephone conversation, such as:
"Well, come on?"

Horst Fanhauzer was fast, strong and experienced.
We were partners in the ascent.

But as the relationship went wrong,
then finally decided that I would go along with
Franz Jaeger.

No one could not assume
after a few hours

a violent storm
which will cover the entire mountain.

It snowed and strong wind,
so that visibility dropped to zero.

I was guided by the wind,
as remembered from approaching storm.

I moved to the south side,
having a vague idea where there is a tent.

From the blizzard came staggering figure.

Horst, is that you? Who's there?

- This Reinhold. Where is France?
- Franz should be with you.

I thought it helped me screams Franz Jaeger,
which came out of the tent to help me.

But after a while that I was confused,
I began to hear voices from different sides.

I thought that he went to the roof.
Andy and I went in search of Franz.

We both just heard his cries.

We wandered for hours in the storm.

And suddenly, Andy fell in the snow behind me and said:

"I can not, I can not endure."
"I'm dying. I want to sleep."

Fate brought us to a crack in the rock.
We climbed inside to somehow protect themselves from the storm.

An hour later, Andy decided to check out what's up with the weather.

The last thing I remember - it's Andy feet outside.

Suddenly he stepped to the right and disappeared completely from my
Eye.

I screamed so much that I almost went crazy.

But there was nothing around except infernal snow.

At that moment I thought of my little son.

For a moment I saw a child,
and suddenly, instead there is a huge moon.

The idea to be in heaven,
was very soothing.

Absolutely white surface ...
The clouds are gone, but all was covered with snow.

Snow desert, white, endless.
And no trace of Andy, in general ...

And then I felt that Andy is no longer alive,
and, of course, Franz too.

I went back to the tent.

Reinhold probably heard me
and shouted, "Who's there?"

I still clearly remember
as he opened the tent and looked out.

He was shocked to see me alive.
At that moment, he did not know that ...

Of course, there are critics who wrote,
Messner threw that Franz Jaeger.

But separation ligament -
It is normal in the mountains, in the expeditions.

And we, the expedition members and friends,
understood it perfectly.

Said that Messner ambitious and foolhardy.

At least once a month, someone wrote,
such as Messner, do not last long.

They wanted me to be abandoned eight thousand,
saving his life and the lives of others.

Then I felt some uncertainty -
if I continue or not.

Not because their parents or brothers.
It was an internal question: "Should I?"

I decided not to give up and go forward
even if left alone.

I am responsible only for myself.

I did not have family or other commitments.

At that time I was married to the Uschi . She knew

I need to live this passion,
his father had called disease.

In 1973, my goal was
to climb Nanga Parbat alone.

But did not succeed because ...
was not yet ready.

That is not enough fortitude to
make a solo ascent.

Fears have taken up and turned me back.

Losing mom was a blow to me,
but parting with Uschi was more painful.

On the one hand, it was his tragedy,
and on the other - a kind of liberation.

Then he disappeared, no one knows where.

We thought he was somewhere near the mountains.
He never said where he was.

In 1977, I have several times
trying to get back on Nanga Parbat.

At that time, it was the best achievement in mountaineering.

Maybe I had to do something else.

It was one of the worst crises, deep
depression.
It took a long time to recover.

I have tried to live differently. Worked.

I was free, and I had the advantage
compared with Peter.

He had more responsibilities,
more responsibility to the family than me.

I went to a lecture and stood by the table
with books about Nepal.

Then he came up and started talking about Nepal.

SELF

Soon he came up and said that if I'm interested ...

He was planning something risky
and he needed for the expedition doctor.

Said he was going to Everest.

And if I want, I can come to him
the base camp, and discuss everything there.

And so it happened.
Once there I realized that violate taboos crazy.

I thought, "God, I hope,
he changed his mind and refuse. "

But death fascinated me
and climbers, who threw her a call.

Everest. Everest was already conquered.

Everest
Nepal, Tibet / China, 8848 meters

He simply said:
"We are what we are.'s See what we can
do it. "

Rose a little noise around us with Messner.
We said we would go without oxygen.

Overall, it was a logical extension.

In 1978, oxygen equipment
weighed about 50 kg per person.

I wondered, "If this is possible without
oxygen
it means you can go without, all eight thousanders ".

Then we will act differently in the high mountains.

We were strong and fast.
In alpine style we climbed the Hidden Peak
(Gasherbrum I).

But Hidden Peak - is 8080 meters.
Everest before lacked a further 800 meters.

I thought:
"Damn, what now? It will be tough."

"That's impossible," - said physiologists.

"This will lead to madness" - says psychologist.
"It's arrogance," - said the climbers.

As for Messner, I would either
refuse,
or never come back.

We got up and went to Camp 1.

I well remember how we sang all night.
I could not sleep, and Reinhold sang songs.

It was interesting to be somewhere else.
The weather was gorgeous.

If we failed to Peter,
then all would say: "We knew it was coming."

Although would like: "They can do it".
This is understandable.

I looked up, the weather was not very good.
And said, "Reinhold, I do not like it."

Perhaps Peter back in the ranks. I know him
as the strongest climber of all the people I have met.

But this year, he was everywhere mereschatsya danger.
It rises to 100 meters, there is a cloud.

He says: "This is not good. Let's go."

The next day we reached Camp 2.
The weather became worse.

We spent the night sitting in a tent.
Reinhold kept his two corners of the tent, and I - two its.

I thought we would die.
Since we had no place to hide.

At that time my son was born, and I thought:
"Oh my God, I do not want to die. I can not here
die! "

Morning and evening, we were contacted by radio.

Reinhold said: "We're not sure.
Peter does not want to go. What do you think? "

For me it was too much.
Who am I to tell them what to do?

I had hoped that they would refuse
of madness and went downstairs.

Go back - it was a good idea. But it was stupid to go down, the next day to try again climb.

I can not describe all the fear,
who had to endure.

It was terribly cold, sleep impossible.
It was all very scary.

Everest we caught in a storm.
But know that this is our last chance.

We went out early, the wind was blowing and it was cold. It was the right decision, otherwise it would be even worse.

Below the summit, we were already at the limit of strength.

The wind was so strong that we had to
crawl on all fours to being blown.

I so desperately waving his ax,
that I started cramping in his right hand.

At that moment I thought:
"Now what happens is that we have been waiting for."

I saw myself from the outside.
I, Peter Habeler, watched from the sidelines as I
climb.

We could not even say a couple of words,
because due to the storm was not heard.

И если бы один из нас сказал:
"I've had enough, I'm going back" - then both would turn down.

When we got to the top
is very happy.

I felt worse than Reinhold.
All I wanted - it's out of there quickly.

This radio "Nepal".

Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler
of the Austrian expedition

yesterday climbed Everest
without oxygen.

Messner and Habeler conquered Everest

I like to remember this story on Everest.

It was the last vertex with Reinhold.

Had to return to the family
and to build relationships, to avoid losing it.

The whole world saw that it is possible
climb Everest without oxygen.

It was the peak climbing.
The next step for me was quite logical.

To see if I can do it alone,
I returned to Nanga Parbat after Everest.

All right? Hi, how are you?.

I noticed that we have a lot in common with Reinhold.

We both grew up in large families in the village.
And we wanted to get away from it.

Later Greteherrel Ursula, who visited the Everest camp, I went to the Nanga Parbat. They were very nice time.

Six weeks later,

This man fascinated me.
First, his "What I want, I do."

When I heard that this was the sixth attempt,
and the previous five were unlucky, I thought ...

He had no choice because he could not
get permission to "expedition without a doctor."

From the beginning, I had a
serious problem - fear. After all, I, too, man.

He was utterly dejected
flickering flames of fear and despair.

He once said in a tent: "I can not, I can not."
I did not know what was happening.

He could not objectively express what it was.

Nanga Parbat
Solo, 1978

I know what can happen, anything.
Past ascent of Nanga Parbat ended
big trouble.

Terry and I stayed at the base camp
monitor its progress. It was surprising
quickly.

The night passed, I slept in a tent.
And suddenly I heard a desperate cry Terry.

Of course, I panicked.
Maybe something terrible had happened, if he so
cried.

When cleared, we saw
below his tent collapsed giant serac.

This was the situation that try not to think.

I never wanted to ... I refused to think about it.
I just wanted to be together.

And if he does not come back?
Or just put a tent on the site?

Most experts and climbers told
that it was something quite incredible.

And he also said that he was afraid. Afraid of loneliness.
I knew it was not his forte.

It was an earthquake of magnitude
7.0 on the Richter scale.

And suddenly, the likelihood that this could happen
became very real to me.

I had 2 ice screws. One of them held the tent.

Otherwise, the avalanche would carry me
together with a tent, and "hello" ...

Sometimes I was furious:
"What an idiot after that go up?"

I cried at the bottom, fingers crossed, unable to
sleep.
And he rose higher and higher.

It was completely pointless!

"You fool, came with him,
to support this madness.

If you did not go,
then there would be no license! "

Maybe it was good,
but now I feel guilty.

I climbed to the top
with the first signs of bad weather,

but it remained normal.
I went back for the night.

The following 48 hours the temperature dropped.
And this could go on for another two weeks.

After these two days, I made a decision.

In tears, I could see the fog,
where the seracs and base camp.

So I went down a different route,
which was as a fallback.

Dangerous slope, but very quickly.
I went down to the base camp at 6:00 with a height of 7600 meters.

I saw this turn of events and thought:
"Excellent! And what do I do now?"

I put on my shoes and ran to him.
He looked like a ghost.

He looked awful,
but how nice it was to hug him.

It really was
almost sensual physical sensation.

He was alive, and could not walk.
As a ghost, but it was a living person.

He seemed like a being from another world,
and was completely exhausted.

He hardly spoke,
I could not hear a word in response.

On the one hand, this was something divine,
and on the other ... I do not know how to describe.

I never thought I would have to live with such
feelings.
Live thoughts about my brother.

But I feel that somehow, with its energy.

I put them together. My brother was with me
during the expedition to climb.

It is clear that I carry this life feeling.

Today, the idea of ​​"sharing" the ascent
are rare, but still happen.

He has changed a lot.
For me, it was incredible.

It also became clear that the next year will be K2.
He asked if I would go.

We agreed that this time will be a man,
woman and mountain.
And we began to train.

We wanted to achieve a result.
But I realized that it will not long endure.

I realized that the problem was
not in physical preparation and motivation.

I felt that I had other dreams appear.
Did not want to climb more mountains. It was the desire to have children.

This feverish life, which led to Reinhold,
I no longer liked.

Base Camp. Reinhold

K2, Pakistan, Tibet / China, 8611 meters
-
you are far away, and you sound very weak.

How are you? Forces still remain?

Messner climbed on K2 in record time

Amazing climber. Great technique.
Smart, fearless, deserves respect.

On the other hand - and boundless vanity
self-promotion,
does not respect nature and do not believe in God.

Can not skip (forward) any climber.

The only thing I'll never leave -
is my hobby - mountain climbing.

Although it has become my profession, climbing
remain for me enthusiastically. Despite
popularity.

I had everything I needed.
With experience, I could climb Everest without oxygen.

Once I was able to climb the Nanga Parbat alone
it was possible to make a solo ascent of Everest.

After climbing Everest with Peter Habeler
without oxygen, two years less than a day,

that I have not thought about Everest, preparing themselves spiritually.

And psychological preparation is
much more important than physical.

Over two years, I went to sleep,
thinking about climbing Everest.

And up in the morning with the idea of ​​a solo ascent.

Thus, all my motivation increased.
But Nepalese side refused to issue a permit.

So I went to Beijing in 1979,
China and said: "Why not?"

I asked the price of the permit, and they called for $ 80,000.
I did not have that kind of money.

I sold all my stuff, including Porsche.

Not knowing whether he will need me in the future.
And went to Everest.

Everest
Solo, 1980

It was the culmination of my mountaineering.
For me it was clear.

I could not climb higher.
I could not do something more complex.

One of the things that I admire in Reinhold
it is his perception: "I have what I do."

For me, that's the gist of it.
This is his Sisyphean task.

I find it a constant duress.

After a solo ascent of Everest, appeared
interrelation
a new generation of colleagues and friends from South Tyrol.

And I felt the need to do something
from what they have already given - Double ascent.

Then he came to me and said Hans Kammerlander:
"If you can get everything ready, I am ready to go with you. "

I was 40 years old and he was 28.
The ideal age for this.

I wanted to climb Gasherbrum I in Pakistan ,
but did not know whether it will be a reality.

I was worried about the safety,
as not very good climb,

and did not know how the body
will respond to the high altitude.

The rope. We'll take two
just in case, although we rarely use.

About how we were equipped not taught in textbooks.
We had only 6 mm rope

No safety arbors,
rope is tied around the waist.

If we do not return for two weeks,
then we are lost, probably due to breakdown.

Will not make any sense to send people on a quest
because we still do not find.

It was not easy to learn.
I was not very experienced,

and had to go at a good pace,
to keep up with Messner.

I think that climbing to Reinhold - it all ..

In it, he can express all ...
It is not expressed in other ways.

Follow illusions grow internally, search ideals
pursue them, and thus, always go to end.

Imagined something that turns into motivation
and then gets a special beauty.

If he suddenly had an idea
abandon the plan and return

I would agree at the time.
And he rejoiced at the top.

I only had to climb to the top
and descend quickly.

For him, it was just beginning. He had
internal need to continue to go to eight thousand.

For me, this is the idea seemed silly.
It was not my intention.

Secure, the base camp was far below.

We hoped that there will be nothing wrong
and the only thing we wanted - to go down,

where there was more air
and it was possible to feel more alive.

I hung on the rope 10 minutes,
tied around his waist,

unable to do anything.

Another 15 minutes and I would have died.
I knew Reinhold could not get me out.

Hans! Hans!

When I fell into a crevasse,
backpack turned and hung on my leg.

I had to try a hundred times,
until I was able to put on crampons.

Rise was given to the limit forces.
I was almost unconscious.

We had to make a bivouac
that was very "unpleasant."

We spent a cold night, considerably froze.
Lights were seen at the bottom of the base camp.

I thought only of tea and a warm sleeping bag.
Extreme fatigue did not allow to enjoy the surrounding beauty.

On the other hand, this situation is
helped to determine what to do next.

It took eight days.

The next year I could pass it alone.

Nothing more, nothing less. I'm ready.

What we learn through mountaineering
exactly the opposite corresponds to what speak.

What we do something heroic.
We are not afraid, and look death in the face.

On the contrary, in the mountains we see how fragile we are.

All horror ... and insecurity of this world.

I can imagine how his mother asked
discontinue their studies.

It so happened that my other brother, Siegfried,
also died on the ascent.

She really asked him to stop,
because she was afraid of losing in the mountains more than one son.

She saw great danger in the big mountains.

I think that those who in childhood did not go to the mountains - will never be able to climb them.
For such people, it is meaningless.

A year later, we went to conquer
the remaining two of his eight thousanders.

For me it was not very good,

Makalu, Nepal, Tibet / China, 8484 meters
-
because I felt

Makalu, Nepal, Tibet / China, 8484 meters
-
there was a lot of competition for these vertices.
Who will make the first 14 x 8000?

Lhotse, Nepal, Tibet / China, 8516 meters
-
So we climbed to the top of both
just to get rid of them.

Eight thousand - it's just links in a chain.
Even today, it does not matter to me.

I could tell after two eight-thousanders,
had enough.

It was too dangerous, and I'll walk
normal routes with oxygen.

So I would go through all 8000 matches in several years.
But this would not be anything other than monotony.

1970 - 1986
25 attempts, 18 ascents

RECOGNITION

GAURISHANKAR, Nepal, Tibet / China, 7134 m
-
In fact, I respect the mountain.

In a large aura of the sacred mountains.

At a vertex does not need to climb.

Mountains, which climb, have become commonplace.

Kailash Tibet / China, 6714 meters
-

Kailash Tibet / China, 6714 meters
-
I got the first license to Kailash

but then I realized, like a mountain deeply respected by local residents who walked around her.

Then I gave up on the ascent -
there will be no ropes or hooks,

no climbers with Sherpas raping mountain.

I have studied mythology about Milarepa
who could fly through the air

the speed of light, just imagine.

Machapuchare, Nepal, 6997 meters

Not only Moses came down from Mount Sinai
with 10 commandments.

Muhammad meditates on Mount Hira,
and receives the consecration of Allah.

Buddha meditating in the Himalayas down to the disciples in the valley, and spreads his teachings.

They climbed mountains,
because it appears as an overall picture

enlightenment, as the top
vision of a lot better than the bottom.

To my surprise, he was fascinated by Milarepa.

Teacher he was assigned many challenges,
like Sisyphus in our culture.

Although he knows that there will be no end.
Maybe he took it.

Maybe just adopted as a goal, as karma.

I was curious what happened 400 years ago.

Sherpas - people who migrated
Tibet from Nepal.

Caravan of 20,000 people and 20,000 yaks
crossed the pass Nangpala height of about 6000 meters.

I went this route - 2,000 kilometers.

It was also interesting how all 8000 matches together
combined.
So I decided to put this and loans.

I crossed the great desert:
Gobi and Taklimakan Central Sahara.

Then I went to the icy deserts - the North
and South Poles, as I admire Shackleton and
Nansen.

All measurements are different adventures.

ANTARCTICA
Crossing, 1989/90

GEOGRAPHIC SOUTH POLE

I never so much not happy tent.

GREENLAND
Crossing, 1993

We crossed Greenland along for 34 days
Although the expedition was planned for 90 days.

We were so excited about this expedition.
And for dessert, we went to the North Pole.

NORTH POLE
Crossing, 1995

Our goal was to get from Russia to Canada
over the North Pole.

From the outset, we realized that this expedition
be very different from Greenland and the South
pole.

One night, we went to sleep,
but then something woke us.

Temperature reaches -48 ° C.

Gunther!

In this stressful situation, he thought Gunther, Fear surfaced again.

We knew that he believed
he could not find his younger brother.

I said I am not Gunther.
But in another dangerous situation he called me again.

On the anniversary of his death we decided to go to Gunther, a small group to Nanga Parbat.

FAREWELL

Wolfgang and Hans Peter, wandering through the moraine saw the clothes and bones found there.

Reinhold was confident that it can only be 2 man.
He brought home the bones and sent them for analysis.

The fact that it turned out the bones of our brother,
was a big relief for the family .

That's why we went with the whole family on Nanga Parbat.

In front there are hollow huge cracks.

Walking on the left of the two cracks
are visible to the naked eye.

And when there is accumulated snow
it must go straight.

He's going to build a school.
And then there is the idea to build a hospital.

We had the opportunity to feel the land.

Visit the school ...

This reunion ...

I think it was a special moment.

It was very important for all the brothers
and our sisters.

We were able to go there and see with our own eyes.

Know where actually buried our brother.

Over time, we must acknowledge
that we, the people, breaking up like mountains.

Mountains crumble and turn into desert.
And we are slowly disappearing. Old age is killing us.

But we do not suffer, and do make choices, day after day.
As I was young, step by step.

Life - it's a kind of arch between birth and
death.
Admit it - is an art.

This art is "climbing", recognition of their
capabilities
and understanding of what you're allowed.

- Or as Milarepa did...

I can not ride on the rays of light.

That's the quiet joy of Sisyphus.
He owns his fate. Stone - his heritage.
A struggle for the heights is enough to fill
the human heart. Should imagine Sisyphus happy.

Albert Camus
"The Myth of Sisyphus"